The Grampians
Rising up from the western Victorian plains, and acting as a haven for bushwalkers, rock climbers and nature lovers, the Grampians are one of the state’s most outstanding natural and cultural features. The rich diversity of wildlife and flora, unique rock formations, Aboriginal rock art, spectacular viewpoints and an extensive network of trails and bush camp sites offers something for everyone. The local Indigenous Jardwadjali people called the mountains Gariwerd – in the local language 'gari' means 'pointed mountain', while 'werd' means 'shoulder'. Explorer Major Thomas Mitchell named the ranges the Grampians after the mountains in Scotland.
Grampians National Park (Gariwerd)
It's one thing to appreciate the Grampians' spectacular backdrop from afar – ie from Halls Gap with glass of wine in hand – but don’t leave the region without getting out into the national park itself. With more than 150km of well-marked walking tracks, ranging from half-hour strolls to overnight treks through difficult terrain, there’s something here to suit all levels. Along with scenic drives and adventure activities such as abseiling and rock climbing, there are many ways to experience the park.
In mid-January 2014, a series of bushfires swept through the Grampians region, with the northern region the hardest hit. Homes were lost around Wartook and Brimpaen, while large swathes of forest turned to ash in the areas around Mt Difficult. In spite of the fires, the Grampians remain very much open for business – check with the various visitors centres and Parks Victoria to see which, if any, trails are closed.
8Orientation
The four greatest mountain ranges of the Grampians are the Mt Difficult Range in the north, Mt William Range in the east, Serra Range in the southeast and Victoria Range in the southwest. They spread from Ararat to the Wartook Valley and from Dunkeld almost to Horsham. Halls Gap, the main accommodation base and service town, lies in the Fyans Valley. The smaller Wonderland Range, close to Halls Gap, has some of the most splendid and accessible outlooks, such as those that go to the Pinnacles or Silverband Falls.
1Sights & Activities
One of the most popular sights is spectacular MacKenzie Falls. From the car park the steep 600m path leads to the base of the falls and a large plunge pool (no swimming). Other popular places include: Boroka Lookout, with excellent views over Halls Gap and Lake Bellfield, and Reed Lookout, with its short walk to the Balconies and views over Lake Wartook.
ROCK ART
Traditional Aboriginal owners have been occupying Gariwerd for more than 20,000 years and this is the most accessible place in Victoria to see Indigenous rock art. Sites include Bunjil’s Shelter, near Stawell, one of Victoria’s most sacred Indigenous sites, best seen on a guided tour from the Brambuk Cultural Centre. Other rock-art sites in the west of the park are the Manja Shelter, reached from the Harrop Track car park, and the Billimina Shelter, near the Buandik camping ground. In the north is the Ngamadjidj Shelter, reached from the Stapylton camping ground.
These paintings, in protected rock overhangs, are mostly handprints, animal tracks and stick figures. They indicate the esteem in which these mountains are held by local Indigenous communities and should be treated with respect.
TTours
Hangin' OutOUTDOORS
(
%0407 684 831; www.hanginout.com.au; 4hr/full-day rock climbing from $75/130)
Rock-climbing specialists who will get you started with a four-hour introductory session and private guiding. Experienced guide Earl will get you onto the cliff faces, giving you a lively interpretation of the surrounding country as you go. His full-day adventure walk includes rock climbs and abseils – an exhilarating Grampians experience.
Grampians Mountain Adventure CompanyADVENTURE
(GMAC; %0427 747 047; www.grampiansadventure.com.au; half-/full-day from $120/160)
Specialises in rock climbing and abseiling adventures, and instruction from beginner to advanced.
WALKS IN THE GRAMPIANS
All the walks start from the various car parks, picnic grounds and camping areas in the park. For longer walks, let someone know where you’re going (preferably the Parks Victoria rangers).
If you're based in Halls Gap and have time for only one walk, the Wonderland Loop is a good choice, taking you through evocative landscapes and climaxing with stunning vistas of the Pinnacles.
4Camping
Parks Victoria maintains camp sites (per vehicle or six people free-$28.70) throughout the park, with toilets, picnic tables and fireplaces (BYO water). Permits are required; you can register and pay at the office at the Brambuk Cultural Centre. Bush camping is permitted (no campfires); download the parks notes at www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for a listing of sites.
FIRE BANS
Pay close attention to fire restrictions – apart from the damage you could do to yourself and the bush, you can be jailed for lighting any fire, including a fuel stove, on days of total fire ban. Check www.cfa.vic.gov.au for details of fire restrictions before heading out.
8Information
Parks Victoria (
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5361 4000, 13 19 63; www.parkweb.vic.gov.au; 277 Grampians Tourist Rd, Brambuk Cultural Centre, Halls Gap) The Brambuk Cultural Centre at Halls Gap is the place for park maps and advice about where to go, where to camp and what you might see. They also issue camping permits and fishing permits required for fishing in local streams.
Halls Gap
Pop 613
Nudging up against the craggy Wonderland Range, Halls Gap is a pretty little town – you might even say sleepy if you visit midweek in winter, but boy does it get busy during holidays. This is the main accommodation base and easiest access for the best of the Grampians. The single street through town has a neat little knot of shops, a supermarket, adventure-activity offices, restaurants and cafes.
There are plenty of kangaroos about its grassy surrounds, with the football oval being a particular favourite hangout. Emus are also often spotted.
Halls Gap
1Top Sights
4Sleeping
5Eating
1Sights & Activities
oBrambuk Cultural CentreCULTURAL CENTRE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5361 4000, 03-8427 2311; www.brambuk.com.au; 277 Grampians Rd; gold coin donation; 
h9am-5pm)
S
F
Don't leave Halls Gap without missing the superb cultural centre at Brambuk, 2.5km south of town. Run by five Koori communities in conjunction with Parks Victoria, the centre offers insights into local culture and history through traditional stories, art, music, dance, weapons, tools and photographs.
The building itself is a striking design that combines timeless Aboriginal motifs with contemporary design and building materials. Its flowing orange roof represents the open wings of a cockatoo, as well as referencing the peaks of the Grampians.
The Gariwerd Dreaming Theatre (tickets adult/child/family $5/3/15) shows two 15-minutes films explaining Dreaming stories of Gariwerd and the creation story of Bunjil. The ceiling here represents the southern right whale (totem of the Gunditjmara people). There’s an art room where kids can try their hand at Indigenous painting ($15), classes on boomerang throwing and didgeridoo playing ($6), and holiday programs are organised. Planted outside are native plants used for food and medicine, where you can arrange a bush-tucker tour ($9).
Trips to visit nearby Aboriginal rock-art sites (adult/child $80/50) are offered as well, which takes in other significant sites along the way.
Also in the centre is an important section on indigenous political issues experienced during colonial times, including a sobering coverage of the massacres that took place in the region.
In a separate building – where you first enter the complex – are a souvenir shop and interesting educational displays covering the natural features and the history of the Grampians; staff can advise on walks and sell camping permits. The bush-tucker cafe has a lovely deck overlooking the gardens.
Halls Gap ZooZOO
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5356 4668; http://hallsgapzoo.com.au; 4061 Ararat–Halls Gap Rd; adult/child/family $28/14/70; h10am-5pm)
Get up close to Australian native animals such as wallabies, dingoes, quolls, Tasmanian devils and wombats, in addition to exotic critters such as meerkats, spider monkeys, bison and tamarin. They have plenty of reptiles and birds too. This is a top-notch wildlife park with breeding and conservation programs and a natural bush setting.
TTours
oBrambuk Cultural CentreCULTURAL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5356 4452; www.brambuk.com.au; Grampians Rd; 3/5hr tours $70/140)
Rangers lead cultural and rock-art tours with numerous fascinating insights into local Indigenous culture. Bookings essential.
Absolute OutdoorsADVENTURE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %1300 526 258; www.absoluteoutdoors.com.au; 105 Grampians Rd; climbing & abseiling half-day $75)
Offers rock climbing, abseiling, mountain biking, canoeing and guided nature walks. Its overnight camping trips (www.grampianspeaks.com.au) are also popular, and they can hire out tents and sleeping bags, as well as arrange water drop-offs. Stop by the shop for hiking boots, accessories and guidebooks on local bouldering and climbing sites. Mountain bike hire (per hour/half-/full-day $10/25/40) is available.
4Sleeping
Halls Gap and the surrounding region has a huge range of accommodation – with more than 6000 beds, this is regional Victoria’s most visited area after the Great Ocean Road, and tourists far outnumber locals. Whether you’re camping, backpacking or looking for a motel or log cabin, there’s plenty to choose from, but it still gets very busy in holiday periods – book ahead.
Tim's PlaceHOSTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5356 4288; www.timsplace.com.au; 44 Grampians Rd; dm/d from $30/70, apt from $120; 
i
W)
Friendly, spotless eco backpackers with a homely feel and friendly owner; free mountain bikes and herb garden.
Halls Gap Caravan ParkCAMPGROUND$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5356 4251; www.hallsgapcaravanpark.com.au; 26 School Rd; unpowered/powered sites from $32/40, cabins $120-195; 
aW)
Camping and cabins right in the town centre. Gets crowded at peak times.
Brambuk BackpackersHOSTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5356 4250, 03-5361 4000; www.brambuk.com.au; 332 Grampians Rd; dm/d/tr $30/75/90; aW)S
Across from the cultural centre, this friendly Aboriginal-owned and -run hostel gives you a calming sense of place with a relaxed feel and craggy views out of the lounge windows. All rooms, including dorms, have en suites and the lounge, dining room, kitchen and barbecue deck are all top-notch.
Grampians YHA Eco-HostelHOSTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5356 4544; www.yha.com.au; cnr Grampians & Buckler Rds; dm/d/f from $31/95/110; iW)S
This architecturally designed and ecofriendly hostel utilises solar power and rainwater tanks and makes the most of light and space. It’s beautifully equipped with a spacious lounge, a MasterChef-quality kitchen and spotless rooms.
oD'Altons ResortCOTTAGE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5356 4666; www.daltonsresort.com.au; 8 Glen St; studio/deluxe/family cottages from $110/125/160; aW
s)
These delightful timber cottages, with cosy lounge chairs, cute verandahs and log fires, spread up the hill from the main road between the gums and kangaroos. They're immaculately kept and the friendly owners are a mine of local information. There’s even a tennis court and a saltwater pool.
Pinnacle Holiday LodgeMOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5356 4249; www.pinnacleholiday.com.au; 21-45 Heath St; 1-/2-bedroom unit from $99/163, d with spa from $140; aWs)
Right in the centre of Halls Gap, this gorgeous property behind the Stony Creek shops has a spectacular mountainous backdrop and plenty of kangaroos. The spacious grounds have a bucolic feel with barbecue areas, an indoor pool and tennis courts. Modern self-contained units, two-bedroom family apartments and a swanky spa suite feature gas log fires.
Mountain Grand GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5356 4232; www.mountaingrand.com.au; Grampians Rd; s/d incl breakfast $146/166; aW)
This gracious, old-fashioned timber guesthouse prides itself on being a traditional old-fashioned lodge where you can take a pre-dinner port in one of the lounge areas and mingle with other guests. The rooms are still quaint but with a bright, fresh feel. The Balconies Restaurant here is well regarded.
Aspect VillasVILLA$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5356 4457; www.aspectvillas.com.au; off Mackey’s Peak Rd; d $520; aW)
These two luxury villas are situated close to town, but seem a world away when you’re reclining on your bed or by the log fire, taking in views of the Wonderland Range through floor-to-ceiling windows. They make the most of local building materials such as Grampians stone, and sit on a secluded property complete with its own lagoon.
With a spa and king-size bed, it’s a real couples' getaway. There’s a minimum two-night stay ($790) on weekends.
5Eating & Drinking
Brambuk Bushfood CafeAUSTRALIAN$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5361 4000; www.brambuk.com.au; Brambruk Cultural Centre, 277 Grampians Rd; mains $8.50-22; h9am-4pm)
Within the Brambuk Cultural Centre is this cafe that's a must for those who have yet to sample native Australia flavours such as wattleseed, lemon myrtle and bush tomato. Expect items such as saltbush lasagne, kangaroo pies, grilled emu and wattleseed damper. The bushfood platter ($22) is a good choice to sample a bit of everything.
Livefast Lifestyle CafeCAFE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5356 4400; www.livefast.com.au; Shop 5, Stony Creek Stores; breakfast $8-17, lunch $15-19; h7am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; W)
Halls Gap's best coffee and a sunny atmosphere are the hallmarks of this cafe. It does interesting breakfasts, including Spanish- and Japanese-influenced dishes, and fresh and tasty lunches such as Vietnamese tofu salad with noodles and rosemary beef burgers. Great selection of craft beers and Grampian wines.
HarvestCAFE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5356 4782; www.harvesthg.com.au; 2 Heath St; day menu $9.80-16.50, dinner $22-32; h8am-4pm Mon-Thu & Sun, to 10pm Fri & Sat)
Utilising the rich bounty of produce in the region, Harvest's cafe menu specialises in locally grown food and wine. It does all-day gourmet breakfasts (Mexican baked eggs) and bites like sourdough steak sandwiches for lunch. On Friday and Saturday they stay open for dinner, with a tasty menu of small and large sharing plates.
They also stock a range of items such as local olives, wines and fruit preserves.
Spirit of PunjabINDIAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5356 4234; www.spiritofpunjabrestaurant.com; 161-163 Grampians Rd; mains $13.50-25; hnoon-2.30pm & 5-9pm)
For a taste of the subcontinent in an Aussie bush setting head to this excellent Punjabi restaurant, which features some fairly bizarre folk sculpture out front. They do an array of dishes with authentic flavours, including a good tandoori selection. There's cheap bottles of wine, and an outdoor deck overlooking a natural clearing often frequented by roos.
Kookaburra HotelMODERN AUSTRALIAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5356 4222; www.kookaburrahotel.com.au; 125-127 Grampians Rd; mains $18-36; h6-9pm Tue-Fri, noon-3pm & 6-9pm Sat & Sun)
This Halls Gap institution is famed for its excellent pub food, such as the sublime crispy-skin duck and Aussie dishes such as barramundi and kangaroo fillet (cooked rare or medium-rare only, as it should be). The wine list features mostly Grampians area wines, and there’s beer on tap at the convivial bar.
8Information
Halls Gap Visitor Centre (
GOOGLE MAP
; %1800 065 599; www.visithallsgap.com.au; 117-119 Grampians Rd; h9am-5pm; W) The staff here are helpful and can book tours, accommodation and activities. They also sell detailed maps ($3.50) and info on walks and drives in the park.
8Getting There & Away
Halls Gap is located 254km from Melbourne along the Western Hwy (three hours), passing through Ballarat (142km) around the halfway mark. If coming from the Great Ocean Road it's 156km north of Port Fairy.
Halls Gap is well linked by public transport. V/Line connects it with Melbourne ($33.20, 3½ hours) and Ballarat ($17.20, two hours); connecting buses await at Ararat or Stawell stations. There's also a bus from Warrnambool ($28.20, three hours) on Tuesday, Friday and Sunday.
Dunkeld & Around
The southern point of access for the Grampians, Dunkeld (population 461) is a sleepy little town with a very big-name restaurant. The setting is superb, with Mt Abrupt and Mt Sturgeon rising up to the north, while the Grampians Tourist Rd to Halls Gap gives you a glorious passage into the park, with the cliffs and sky opening up as you pass between the Serra and Mt William Ranges. Fit hikers can walk to the summit of Mt Abrupt (6.5km, three hours return) and Mt Sturgeon (7km, three hours return) for panoramic views of the ranges. Both walks leave from signposted car parks off the Grampians Tourist Rd.
4Sleeping
Royal Mail HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5577 2241; www.royalmail.com.au; 98 Parker St; r incl breakfast $295; aWs)
If you've come this far you might as well hang around post meal and stay at the Royal Mail's lovely rooms that look out to the Grampians. Rooms are comfortable and stylish, with a pool, native flora and a kitchen garden that you can tour with one of the chefs.
5Eating
oRoyal Mail HotelMODERN AUSTRALIAN$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5577 2241; www.royalmail.com.au; 98 Parker St; bistro $24-42, lunch $75-95, dinner $95-165; hbar & bistro noon-3pm & 6-9pm, restaurant noon-2.30pm Thu-Sun & 6-10pm Wed-Sun)
Dunkeld's main attraction is the showpiece restaurant at the Royal Mail – long regarded as one of the finest in the state. Continuously licensed since 1855, today the kitchen is overseen by chef Robin Wickens who's behind its daily changing menu of local seasonal produce. Its attached Parker St Project bistro is a more affordable option without skimping on quality.
A striking art deco building, inside is a smart but relaxed space with open fire and views out to the Grampians' Mt Sturgeon. Most of the menu is sourced from its farm and garden kitchen to create its highly seasonal menu with plenty of delightful surprises. Service is impeccable as is the wine list, with the largest collection of Bordeaux and Burgundy wines in the southern hemisphere – all available by the glass. For dinner it's advisable to book weeks ahead, but lunch is normally OK with a few days notice. The Parker St Project is open daily for delicious bistro-style mains.
There's accommodation here too.
8Information
Dunkeld Visitor Centre (
GOOGLE MAP
; %1800 807 056, 03-5577 2558; www.visitgreaterhamilton.com.au; 55 Parker St) Has useful information about this small town south of the Grampians.
8Getting There & Away
Dunkeld is 64km south of Halls Gap, so if you're coming specifically to eat at the Royal Mail you can theoretically make it as a return trip.
It's located 269km from Melbourne, a three-hour drive. If you're coming from the Great Ocean Road you can head through Warrnambool from where it's 100km to Dunkeld.
There are three buses to Dunkeld a week from Warrnambool ($19, two hours) which continue on through to Halls Gap.
Wartook Valley & the Northern Grampians
Wartook Valley runs along the Grampians’ western foothills, giving a completely different perspective of the mountains. Heading to or from Horsham, this is the scenic alternative to the Western Hwy (A8). From Wartook, the sealed Roses Gap Rd and Mt Victoria Rd pass through the park, and there are lots of unsealed roads and tracks passing little creeks, waterfalls and idyllic picnic spots. Most of the tourist infrastructure was spared during the 2014 fires, but much of the land has turned from green to black and will take some time to recover.
Northwest of the Grampians
Heading northwards from the Grampians, the terrain peters out as you enter Victoria's Wimmera region. It's an area characterised by flat and dry farm land, with the exception of Mt Arapiles, which rises dramatically like a mini Uluru and is a detour popular with rock climbers from around the world.
Also here is Horsham, a major regional hub with a fantastic art gallery, a few good cafes and botanical gardens, but little else.
Horsham
Pop 15, 894
The major town to the northwest of the Grampians and the capital of the Wimmera region, Horsham makes a convenient base for exploring the surrounding national parks and Mt Arapiles. The main shopping strip has postal and banking facilities, supermarkets and plenty of other shops and eateries.
1Sights
oHorsham Regional Art GalleryGALLERY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5382 9575; www.horshamartgallery.com.au; 80 Wilson St; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 11am-4.30pm Sat, 1-4.30pm Sun)F
Horsham's newly revamped gallery, within the historic art deco town hall, is a must for art lovers. Its downstairs space exhibits interesting contemporary shows, while upstairs has a permanent collection of photography featuring quality works by Bill Henson, Frank Hurley and Wolfgang Sievers. Also upstairs are paintings by Sir Sidney Nolan, John Bracks, Fred Williams and Brett Whiteley.
FRAMING THE WIMMERA
Scattered around the region are giant picture frames, used to capture scenic sights of the Wimmera. The four installations frame views of Mt Arapiles, the Grampians, Wimmera River and Toolondo Reservoir View – see www.visithorsham.com.au for the GPS coordinates.
5Eating
Nourish’d EateryCAFE$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0476 007 054; www.nourishdeatery.com.au; 34 Roberts Ave; dishes $12-18; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat; W)S
An unexpected find in northwest Victoria is this modern cafe with a menu loaded with antioxidants and superfoods. There's a focus on organic and local produce, with the owners personally visiting the farms they source from. That doesn't mean it skimps on flavour, with the likes of pulled-pork sangas and hearty breakfasts. Its cake range is all raw, vegan, organic and gluten free.
8Information
Horsham & Grampians Visitors Centre (
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5382 1832; www.visithorsham.com.au; 20 O'Callaghan's Pde; h9am-5pm) Very helpful centre for information on Horsham and the surrounding area, including walking maps and art trails.
8Getting There & Away
Horsham is 300km from Melbourne along the Western Hwy, passing through Ballarat en route. The Little Desert National Park (74km) is just over an hour's drive, while Halls Gap (73km) in the Grampians is just under a hour.
From Melbourne's Southern Cross Station there's a daily train-coach service to Horsham ($39, four hours) with a transfer in Ararat.
Mt Arapiles State Park
Mt Arapiles is Australia’s premier rock-climbing destination. Topping out at 369m it’s not the world's biggest mountain, but with more than 2000 routes to scale, it attracts salivating climbers from around the world. Popular climbs include the Bard Buttress, Tiger Wall and the Pharos. In the tiny nearby town of Natimuk, a community of avid climbers has set up to service visitors, and the town has also developed into something of a centre for artists.
2Activities
Arapiles Climbing GuidesCLIMBING
(%03-5384 0376; www.arapiles.com.au; Natimuk)
Climbing instruction and guiding around Mt Arapiles.
Natimuk Climbing CompanyCLIMBING
(%0400 871 328, 03-5387 1329; www.climbco.com.au)
Offers climbing, bouldering and abseiling instruction.
Arapiles Mountain ShopCLIMBING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5387 1529, 0428 871 529; www.facebook.com/arapilesresoles; 67 Main St, Natimuk; h1-5.30pm Mon & Fri, 4.30-6pm Tue & Thu, 11am-5.30pm Sat, noon-5.30pm Sun)
Sells and hires climbing equipment.
4Sleeping
Most climbers camp at the foot of the mountain, but otherwise there's accommodation in nearby Natimuk.
Centenary Park CampgroundCAMPGROUND$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %13 19 63; www.parkweb.vic.gov.au; Centenary Park Rd, Mt Arapiles; camp sites per person $5.30)
Most climbers head for this popular camping ground at the base of the mountain with three separate sites – the Lower Gums, the Pines and Upper Gums areas. There are toilets, communal fireplaces and picnic tables, but you'll need to bring your own drinking water and firewood.
National HotelHOTEL$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5387 1300; www.natimukhotel.com.au; 65 Main St, Natimuk; d $85; h11am-late Tue-Sat, 3pm-late Sun & Mon; W)
This place in Natimuk has tidy motel-style units at the back and pub rooms upstairs, plus good counter meals (lunch $13.50, dinner $19-30).
Duffholme CabinsCABIN$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0421 442 050; 1859 Natimuk Frances Rd, Mitre; camping $10, d incl breakfast $100)
A self-contained cottage and camp site (with toilets and shower) surrounded by wildlife and with views of Mt Arapiles. Ring to make arrangements (it’s not staffed).
5Eating
If you're camping there are fireplaces for cooking, but you'll need to bring your own fire wood. Given collecting wood in the park is prohibited, a gas cooker will make life much easier. Otherwise there's a cafe and pub at Natimuk. Horsham has the closest supermarket for shopping.
Natimuk CafeCAFE$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5387 1316; www.natimukcafe.com.au; 2 Jory St, Natimuk; dishes $10-17; h8.30am-10pm Fri & Sat, 8.30am-4.30pm Sun-Thurs)
A lovely rustic little cafe with a menu of locally sourced, homemade goods, including big breakfasts, lasagnes and daily specials. It's a great hangout for climbers with a bunch of rock-climbing magazines and books.
8Getting There & Away
Mt Arapiles is 37km west of Horsham and 12km west of Natimuk.
Wimmera Roadways (%coach pickup 0428 861 160, office 08-8762 2962; www.wimmeraroadways.com.au) runs a bus service from Horsham to Mt Arapiles ($6, 30 minutes) from Monday to Friday passing through Natimuk ($4.80). It's essential to phone ahead to request Mt Arapiles as a stop. It leaves Mt Arapiles at 9.40am and Horsham at 2.40pm.
Little Desert National Park & Around
Heading into Mallee country in the heart of the Wimmera, this northwest corner of Victoria is noticeably drier and dustier with a more laid-back Aussie outback feel. The Little Desert National Park is the main attraction, with its unique expanse of wilderness ideal for camping. Along the way you'll pass through sleepy country towns that make for lovely stopovers, while further north is the Silo Art Trail (www.facebook.com/siloarttrail), that's fast becoming a tourist attraction as word gets out.
Dimboola
Located on the eastern edge of the Little Desert National Park, beside the Wimmera River, Dimboola is a classic country town made famous by Jack Hibberd’s play Dimboola, and the subsequent 1979 John Duigan film of the same name about a country wedding. The national park entrance is about 4km south of town on a sealed road, but from then on it’s gravel. There are numerous easily accessed walks around the flats area along the river.
Beside the Western Hwy, about 19km northwest of Dimboola, the Pink Lake is a colourful salt lake with a bright pink-purple hue.
1Sights
Nolan StudioPUBLIC ART
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Lochiel St; h24hr)F
Just next to the supermarket is this shopfront window displaying info and replica works by acclaimed Australian painter Sir Sidney Nolan, stationed in Dimboola during WWII.
SILO ART TRAIL
Despite its out-of-the-way location in the heart of the Wimmera, this series of disused grain silos decorated in giant murals is fast gaining recognition as a tourist destination. The original was the Brim Silos (just south of Brim) 78km north of Horsham with its evocative, photogenic mural depicting local farmers. Its success has led to a 200km 'art trail' (www.facebook.com/siloarttrail), with similar epic works appearing on silos at Patchewollock and Sheep Hills, while more are commissioned for Lascelles, Rosebery and Rupanyup.
4Sleeping
Dimboola Riverside Caravan ParkCAMPGROUND$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5389 1416; www.riversideholidayparkdimboola.com.au; 2 Wimmera St; unpowered/powered sites $20/37, cabins from $68)
Set among eucalypts and pine trees beside the Wimmera River.
Riverside Host FarmCABIN$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5389 1550; 150 Riverside Rd; sites $25, cabins d $94; aW)
This friendly hobby farm on a bend in the Wimmera River is a lovely place to stay, with cosy self-contained cabins, camp sites and a rustic open-sided camp kitchen lounge area with pot-belly stove. Hire canoes, or help out with farm activities.
5Eating & Drinking
Good PaddockDELI
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5389 2079; 102 Lloyd St; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)
A delightful little provedore stocking local gourmet produce such as olive oil and ice cream, as well as meats such as scotch fillet steaks. They do locally roasted coffee too.
Mason ClarkeCOFFEE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5389 2070; www.masonclarke.com.au; 86 Lloyd St; h8am-1pm Sat & Sun)
While they've scaled back from meals, you can still pop into this coffee roaster for a cuppa on weekends. They do jars of homemade preserves and milkshakes too.
8Getting There & Away
Dimboola is 336km from Melbourne along the Western Hwy.
There's a bus here from Horsham ($4.80, 20 minutes), which continues on through to Nhill ($4.80, 25 minutes).
Little Desert National Park
While you shouldn't expect rolling sand dunes, this arid park does cover a huge 1320 sq km and is rich in flora and fauna that thrive in the dry environment. There are over 670 indigenous plant species here, and in spring and early summer the landscape is transformed into a colourful wonderland of wildflowers. The best-known resident is the Malleefowl, an industrious bird that can be seen in an aviary at the Little Desert Nature Lodge.
The Nhill–Harrow Rd through the park is sealed and the road from Dimboola is gravel, but in the park the tracks are mostly sand and only suitable for 4WD vehicles or walking. Some are closed to 4WDs in the wet season (July to October).
4Sleeping
oLittle Desert Nature LodgeCAMPGROUND, RESORT$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5391 5232; www.littledesertlodge.com.au; camp sites $35, bunkhouse d $56, motel r $130; a)S
On the northern edge of the desert, 16km south of Nhill, this well-equipped and friendly-run bush retreat is a superb base for exploring the park. With a spacious camping ground, bunkhouse and comfortable en-suite motel-style rooms there’s something for everyone. A key attraction here is the tour of the Malleefowl aviary ($30), where you can see these rare birds in a breeding program.
It also does nightly guided tours to its sanctuary ($30) to observe the intriguing brush-tailed bettongs, as well as the Malleefowl, gliders and bush stone-curlews. A range of other tours is listed on their website.
The premise of the lodge is entirely conservation based, with its focus upon a long-term 're-wilding' project that aims to reintroduce locally extinct species such as bettongs and bandicoot into the wild. Its 120-hectare property is surrounded by a high-tech predator-proof fencing, where volunteers conduct regular surveys of local fauna and reptile species. Get in touch with Conservation Volunteers Australia (www.conservationvolunteers.com.au) if you want to help out.
Camping GroundsCAMPGROUND$
(%13 19 63; www.parkweb.vic.gov.au; sites from $27.40)
There are several camping grounds in the national park, with the most popular being in the eastern block at Horseshoe Bend and Ackle Bend – both on the Wimmera River south of Dimboola. They have toilets, picnic tables and fireplaces. Otherwise, there's free bush camping in the more remote central and western blocks where there are designated sites.
8Information
Little Desert Park Office (
GOOGLE MAP
; %13 19 63, 03-8427 2129; www.parkweb.vic.gov.au; Nursery Rd, Wail Nursery; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Now that all info and bookings are online there's little reason to stop by here, but rangers can offer advice on camping inside the park.
8Getting There & Away
The national park can be accessed from entry points at Dimboola, Nhill or from the south along the tarred road (C206) that passes through the centre of the park.
Public transport will only get you as far as Dimboola or Nhill, so basically you'll need your own vehicle to visit here. However, if you're staying at Little Desert Nature Lodge it may be possible to arrange a lift from Nhill.
Nhill
Nhill is the main base for the northern entrance to the Little Desert National Park and Kiata campground. It’s a big town for this part of the world – the main industries here are wheat farming and producing ducks for Victorian restaurant tables. Nhill is an Aboriginal word meaning ‘mist over the water’ – check out the artificial Lake Nhill and surrounding wetlands to see if there’s any water. It has a sizeable community of Karen refugees who have been settled here after spending decades in camps along the Thai-Burma border.
Nhill has some grand old pubs, cafes, motels and a caravan park, but your best bet for accommodation is to head down to Little Desert Nature Lodge near the national park entrance.
There are plenty of pubs in town doing counter meals, as well as takeaway and fast food restaurants and generic cafes. There's a decent supermarket for self-caterers heading into the Little Dessert National Park.
Hindmarsh Visitors Centre (
GOOGLE MAP
; %03-5391 3086; www.wimmeramalleetourism.com.au; Victoria St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) In Goldsworthy Park in the town centre, has plenty of information on the park and local sights and accommodation.
Nhill lies at approximately the halfway point between Melbourne (374km) and Adelaide (352km) on the Western Hwy.
From Horsham there's a V/Line bus to Nhill ($8.80, 45 minutes).