The whole subset of casserole cooking in the South would be lost without the familiar red-and-white can of cream of mushroom soup. But there’s so much more to soups and stews than pulling out a can opener. Homemade soups are nourishing, hot ones warming on a cold winter night, chilled versions refreshing on a hot summer day.
Soups made from just a few ingredients may seem simple, but if properly made, they can taste as complex as any dish. Good soup is not the result of throwing a bunch of ingredients in a pot and covering the mixture with water or stock. The fewer the ingredients, the better quality they must be, and the more careful their assembly. It’s a multistep process of building layers of flavor.
The first step of many classic French soups and stews is the mirepoix, a combination of finely diced onion, celery, and carrots (the term refers to not only the specific combination of ingredients but also the cut). The mirepoix is the basis of many recipes—practically everything but ice cream—and especially soup. The next key step is to sweat or saute these vegetables, perhaps allowing them to color a little, but mainly to concentrate their flavors and evaporate any exuded moisture. This step is crucial. The main ingredients are then added, topped with stock, broth, or water and simmered (not boiled) until the flavors have married and the soup is complete. While classic French soups have a mirepoix, not all good soups need it. Southern soups typically get their layers of flavors in other ways.
Salt is also crucial to developing flavors, and that is why it is important to taste and season as you go. If all the salt and pepper in a recipe is added at the beginning of cooking, the flavors will not be right, and it will not work if all the seasoning is added at the end. It’s important to build layers of flavors, to coax out the flavors as you cook. Always, always taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper before you serve any soup.
In dark times of hunger, soup may be nothing more than a thin watery broth with no attention to technique—just a way of stretching too little food to fill too many bellies. Something as simple as a bowl of soup can represent a massive societal shift: between the Civil War and World War II, more and more Southerners left a predominantly agricultural life and moved to the cities to work in factories. The economy had not truly recovered from the Civil War when the Great Depression of the 1930s hit, and it hit Southerners very hard. In the cities, soup kitchens provided the only meals available to some of the unemployed. In the country, the traditional soups and stews of the South helped keep people alive. They were made from what could be harvested from the land, rivers, and ponds, with an emphasis on vegetables, often flavored with a ham bone or a small amount of meat.
I find the process of making soup almost as rewarding as eating it. Soup was one of the first dishes we learned in culinary school. For all soups, the steps are the same, only the flavors change. I relish the techniques, creating layers of flavors, tasting and adjusting the seasoning as I go. I love how the whole house is perfumed with the aroma and how the kitchen windows bead with condensation as a pot of nourishing goodness simmers on the stovetop.
The soups in this chapter include the most homey and basic, from a Southern-style vegetable soup with tender bits of diced vegetable in a rich tomato-based broth to the classic Potato-Leek Soup that has nourished many French families for generations. Soups also give the cook an opportunity to stretch, as in the marriage of styles that is Vidalia Onion Soup with Bacon Flan—a Southern soup with a French accent.
Makes about 10 cups
2 pounds chicken wings or bones
14 cups water
3 stalks celery, coarsely chopped
3 onions, preferably Vidalia, coarsely chopped
3 carrots, coarsely chopped
2 bay leaves, preferably fresh
2 sprigs of parsley
2 springs of thyme
4 to 6 whole black peppercorns
In a large soup pot, combine the chicken wings, water, celery, onions, carrots, bay leaves, parsley, thyme, and peppercorns. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to low and simmer for 1½ hours, skimming the foam off the top as it rises. Strain through a colander, reserving the stock and discarding the chicken and vegetables.
Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week or freeze for up to 3 months. Before using, skim off and discard any fat that has risen to the surface.
Makes 10 cups
6 pounds beef bones
3 carrots, coarsely chopped
3 onions, preferably Vidalia, coarsely chopped
3 stalks celery, coarsely chopped
1 head garlic, halved
1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste
5 quarts water
2 bay leaves, preferably fresh
10 whole black peppercorns
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Place the beef bones in a roasting pan. Roast, turning them occasionally, until they start to brown, about 15 minutes. Add the carrots, onions, celery, garlic, and tomato paste. Continue roasting until the vegetables are brown, an additional 20 to 30 minutes.
Transfer the contents of the roasting pan to a large stock pot and add the water. Add the bay leaves and peppercorns. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to low and simmer for a minimum of 4 hours and up to 8 hours, skimming the foam off the top as it rises. Strain through a colander, reserving the stock and discarding the beef bones and vegetables.
Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week or freeze for up to 3 months. Before using, skim off and discard any fat that has risen to the surface.
Serves 6 to 8
1 ham bone, with some meat on it
2 bay leaves, preferably fresh
1 sprig of thyme
6 cups water
1 (15-ounce) can tomato puree
1 (14½-ounce) can whole tomatoes, with juices
2 cups shelled fresh butter beans (about 1½ pounds unshelled) or frozen butter beans, thawed
1 onion, preferably Vidalia, chopped
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 carrots, sliced into thin rounds
2 stalks celery, chopped
2 Yukon gold potatoes, cubed
½ pound fresh green beans, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
Scraped kernels from 4 ears fresh sweet corn (about 2 cups) (see Cutting Corn off the Cob)
¼ pound fresh okra, stems trimmed, cut into ½-inch pieces (optional)
Meme’s Biscuits, for accompaniment
In a large pot, place the ham bone, bay leaves, thyme, and water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then decrease the heat to low and simmer until the broth is flavorful and fragrant, about 1 hour.
Add the tomato puree, whole tomatoes with juices, butter beans, and onion. Season with salt and pepper. Continue cooking on low heat until the butter beans are just tender, about 30 minutes. Add the carrots, celery, potatoes, green beans, corn, and okra. Continue cooking until the vegetables are tender, about 30 additional minutes. Remove the bay leaves and thyme. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.
Enjoy with hot biscuits.
Serves 4 to 6
1 medium cantaloupe, peeled, seeded, and chopped
2 tablespoons sugar
¼ cup freshly squeezed orange juice
Pinch of coarse salt
Fresh mint leaves, for garnish
In the jar of a blender, combine the cantaloupe, sugar, orange juice, and salt; process until smooth. Transfer to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate to chill thoroughly, at least 30 minutes. Taste and adjust for seasoning with additional sugar and salt, if needed.
Serve chilled in chilled bowls, garnished with mint.
Serves 4 to 6
Scraped kernels from 6 ears fresh sweet corn (about 3 cups; see Cutting Corn off the Cob), cobs reserved and cut in half
4 cups chicken stock or low-fat, reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 tablespoon corn oil, preferably unrefined
1 onion, preferably Vidalia, chopped
1 clove garlic, very finely chopped
1 russet potato, peeled and finely chopped
1 tablespoon fine yellow cornmeal
Bouquet garni (2 sprigs of flat-leaf parsley, 2 sprigs of thyme, 1 bay leaf, preferably fresh, 6 whole black peppercorns, tied together in cheesecloth)
2 to 3 heirloom tomatoes, cored, seeded, and chopped
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon chopped fresh herbs (such as parsley, tarragon, or basil)
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup heavy cream (optional)
To make the corn stock, in a saucepan, combine the corncobs and chicken stock and bring to a boil over medium heat. Decrease the heat to low and simmer until the stock has taken on a light corn flavor, about 10 minutes. Remove the corncobs, strain the stock into a bowl, and set aside.
To prepare the soup, in the same saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat and cook the onion until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 45 to 60 seconds. Add the corn kernels, potato, and cornmeal. Add enough of the corncob-infused stock to cover. Add the bouquet garni and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Decrease the heat to low and simmer until the chopped potato is tender, about 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, to prepare the garnish, combine the tomatoes and any juices, olive oil, and herbs. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.
To finish the soup, in the saucepan, using an immersion blender, puree the soup. Or ladle the soup into a blender and puree until smooth a little at a time. Leave it coarse and chunky if you prefer a more rustic soup, or puree until smooth for a more elegant soup. Stir in the cream and reheat. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.
To serve, spoon into bowls and top with the tomato garnish. Serve immediately.
Serves 4 to 6
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 stalks celery, finely diced
3 leeks, white and pale green parts, well washed (see below), halved and thinly sliced into half-moons
2 shallots, chopped
2 cloves garlic, very finely chopped
2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
4 cups chicken stock or low-fat, reduced-sodium chicken broth
Bouquet garni (1 bay leaf, preferably fresh, 2 sprigs of rosemary, 2 sprigs of thyme, 2 sprigs of flat-leaf parsley, 6 whole black peppercorns, tied together in cheesecloth)
¼ cup heavy cream (optional)
Coarse salt and freshly ground white pepper
To prepare the soup, in a stockpot, heat the oil and butter over medium-low heat. Add the celery, leeks, and shallots. Cook until soft, about 4 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, but do not brown. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 45 to 60 seconds. Add the potatoes, stock, and bouquet garni.
Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat, decrease the heat to low, and simmer until the potatoes are tender, 40 to 45 minutes. Remove the bouquet garni and discard.
To finish the soup, in the stockpot, using an immersion blender, puree the soup. Or, ladle the soup into a blender and puree until smooth a little at a time. Leave it coarse and chunky if you prefer a more rustic soup or puree until smooth for a more elegant soup. Stir in the cream. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. If needed, re-warm the soup over medium-low heat.
Serves 4 to 6
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 shallot, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped
1 stalk celery, very finely chopped
Bouquet garni (3 sprigs of flat-leaf parsley, 2 sprigs of thyme, 10 whole black peppercorns, tied together in cheesecloth)
3 pounds winter squash, peeled, seeded, and chopped
3 cups chicken stock or low-fat, reduced-sodium chicken broth
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and diced
1 sprig of thyme
½ cup heavy cream (optional)
1 teaspoon firmly packed dark brown sugar
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
To prepare the soup, in a large, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter over medium-low heat until foaming. Add the shallot, carrot, and celery. Cook, stirring frequently, until soft and translucent, about 3 minutes.
Add the bouquet garni, squash, and chicken stock. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil over high heat, decrease the heat to low, and simmer until the squash is tender, about 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, to cook the apples, in a skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter over medium heat. Add the diced apple and remaining sprig of thyme; season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the apple is tender and lightly caramelized, about 5 minutes. Set aside and keep warm.
To finish the soup, remove the bouquet garni and discard. In the Dutch oven, using an immersion blender, puree the soup until smooth. Or ladle the soup into a blender and puree until smooth a little at a time. Leave it coarse and chunky if you prefer a more rustic soup or puree until smooth for a more elegant soup. Add the cream, brown sugar, and nutmeg. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.
To serve, ladle into warm bowls and garnish with the sauteed apples. Serve immediately.
Serves 4 to 6
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
6 onions, preferably Vidalia, sliced
2 leeks, white and pale green parts, well washed (see Leeks sidebar under Potato-Leek Soup), halved lengthwise, and thinly sliced into half-moons
1 shallot, chopped
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
½ cup dry sherry
6 cups beef stock or low-fat, reduced-sodium beef broth
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
1 baguette, sliced diagonally ½ inch thick
3 cups grated Gruyère cheese (about 12 ounces)
Snipped fresh chives, for garnish
To caramelize the onions, in a large, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Add the onions, leeks, and shallot. Season with salt and pepper, sprinkle with sugar, and cook, stirring as needed to keep the onions from sticking, until the onions are melting and soft, golden brown, and beginning to caramelize, 30 to 45 minutes.
To prepare the soup, sprinkle the flour over the onions, and stir to coat. Add the sherry, stock, and thyme and bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to low, and simmer, partially covered, for about 30 minutes. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.
Preheat the broiler. To serve, ladle hot soup into 6 ovenproof bowls. Arrange the bowls on a baking sheet. Place 1 or 2 slices of baguette over each bowl of soup. Top each bowl with ½ cup grated cheese so it covers the baguette slices. Broil until the cheese is melted and crusty brown around the edges. (Watch carefully so the bread doesn’t burn.) Garnish with the chives. Serve immediately.
Serves 4 to 6
3 tomatoes, cored and coarsely chopped
1 English cucumber, seeded and coarsely chopped
1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and coarsely chopped
1 green bell pepper or poblano chile, cored, seeded, and coarsely chopped
1 onion, preferably Vidalia, coarsely chopped
1 carrot, chopped
1 stalk celery, chopped
Juice of ½ lemon, plus more if needed
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 cup tomato juice (optional)
½ cup crème fraîche or sour cream
¼ cup chopped fresh tarragon
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup best-quality extra-virgin olive oil
In the bowl of a food processor or jar of a blender fitted with the metal blade, puree the tomatoes until very smooth. Transfer the tomato puree to a large nonreactive bowl. Puree the cucumber, red and green bell peppers, onion, carrot, and celery. (If your bowl isn’t large enough, puree the vegetables in batches.) Add the pureed vegetables to the pureed tomatoes and stir to combine. Add the lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, and cayenne pepper. If the soup seems too thick, add the tomato juice, if necessary, to achieve the proper consistency. Cover with plastic wrap and chill thoroughly in the refrigerator, at least 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the crème fraîche and tarragon. Season the mixture with salt and black pepper. Set aside.
To serve, taste the soup and adjust the seasoning with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, if necessary. Ladle the soup into chilled bowls. Drizzle over the olive oil and top each bowl of soup with a small dollop of the seasoned crème fraîche. Serve immediately.
New Southern Chicken and Herb Dumplings
Serves 4 to 6
3 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cubed (about 2 pounds)
6 cups chicken stock or low-fat, reduced-sodium chicken broth
Bouquet garni (3 sprigs of parsley, 2 sprigs of thyme, 1 bay leaf, preferably fresh, 6 black peppercorns, tied together in cheesecloth)
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (about ½ ounce), plus more for garnish
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup whole milk
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 onion, preferably Vidalia, chopped
3 carrots, cut into ½-inch rounds
1 large sweet potato, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
10 ounces fresh baby spinach
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)
To poach the chicken, in a large saucepan, add the breasts and the chicken stock to cover. Add the bouquet garni. Bring to a boil over high heat, then decrease the heat to low. Simmer, skimming off the foam occasionally, until the chicken is tender, 10 to 15 minutes. (If the stock is cloudy, don’t worry; it’s simply protein clarified from the stock. Just ignore it or strain it out.) Transfer the poached chicken to a warm plate; reserve the stock. Cover with a lid and set aside.
To prepare the dumplings, in a bowl, combine the flour, cheese, baking powder, parsley, and ¾ teaspoon of the salt. In a small saucepan, bring the milk and butter to a simmer over low heat; season with black pepper. Add the milk mixture to the dry ingredients and stir to combine.
In a second large saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, carrots, and sweet potato. Cook until the onions are translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 45 to 60 seconds. Add the reserved stock and bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to low. Using a small ice cream scoop or tablespoon, drop the dough, about 1 tablespoon at a time, into the simmering stock. Cover and simmer until the dumplings are cooked through and the vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes.
To assemble, add the reserved chicken and cook just until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in the spinach; cover and continue cooking for an additional 30 to 45 seconds. Add the red pepper flakes. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.
To serve, ladle into shallow bowls and garnish with additional cheese; serve immediately.
Serves 4 to 6
6 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into lardons; 1 ounce fatback; or 2 tablespoons canola oil
2 leeks, white and pale green parts, well washed (see Leeks sidebar under Potato-Leek Soup), halved horizontally, and thinly sliced into half-moons
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
4 cups bottled clam juice
1½ cups milk
1½ cups heavy cream
2 (8-ounce) containers of oysters, drained, juices reserved
2 large russet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces
1 sprig of thyme
1 bay leaf, preferably fresh
2 tablespoons dry sherry
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a saucepan, cook the bacon over medium heat until crisp, about 5 minutes. Add the leeks and saute, stirring often, until they begin to soften, 3 to 5 minutes. Sprinkle over the flour and stir to combine. Whisk in the clam juice, milk, cream, and reserved oyster juice. Add the potatoes and bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to low. Add the thyme and bay leaf, cover, and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes. Add the oysters and simmer, uncovered, until they are heated through and their edges begin to curl, about 3 minutes. Remove the thyme and bay leaf and discard. Add the sherry and stir to combine. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
Serves 4 to 6
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 onions, preferably Vidalia, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
1 stalk celery, chopped
2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped
6 cups water, plus more if needed
¼ medium head green cabbage, chopped
Rind from a piece of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 (14½-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
¼ pound green beans, trimmed and cut into ½-inch pieces
¼ pound fresh okra, stems trimmed, halved lengthwise
1 yellow squash, chopped
1 zucchini, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
½ cup elbow macaroni
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for garnish
In a large, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onions, carrot, and celery and cook until the onions are golden, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 45 to 60 seconds. Add 4 cups of the water, the cabbage, and the cheese rind. Season the mixture with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil over high heat, and then decrease the heat to low. Simmer until the mixture is flavorful and well combined, about 30 minutes.
Add the tomatoes, green beans, okra, yellow squash, zucchini, parsley, basil, and red pepper flakes. Add more of the remaining water to cover by about 1 inch. Continue to simmer slowly over very low heat until the vegetables are just tender, an additional 20 minutes. Add the pasta, and more water, if needed. Simmer until the pasta is tender, an additional 10 to 15 minutes. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.
To serve, ladle the soup into warmed bowls. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle with grated cheese.
Serves 4 to 6
8 cups beef stock or low-fat, reduced-sodium beef broth
Bouquet garni (8 sprigs of flat-leaf parsley, 6 sprigs of thyme, 2 bay leaves, preferably fresh, 10 whole black peppercorns, tied together in cheesecloth)
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 leeks, white part only, quartered to the root, well washed (see Leeks sidebar under Potato-Leek Soup), and tied
8 small red or Yukon gold potatoes
1 small head green cabbage, quartered
2 stalks celery, halved crosswise
4 cloves garlic, halved
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts or thighs
1 pound boneless beef rib-eye
8 small carrots, peeled
1 pound haricots verts or young, tender green beans, trimmed
GARNISHES
1 baguette, sliced diagonally ½ inch thick
Dijon mustard
Cornichons
Freshly grated horseradish
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a large stockpot, add the stock and bouquet garni. Season with salt and pepper. Add the leeks, potatoes, cabbage, celery, and garlic. Bring to a boil over high heat, cover, and decrease the heat to low. Simmer until the vegetables are almost tender, 10 to 12 minutes.
Season the chicken and beef with salt and pepper and add to the pot along with the carrots. (Use tongs to move all the ingredients around so the raw ingredients are fully submerged in the stock.) Continue to simmer, partially covered, until the chicken and beef are almost cooked through, about 5 minutes. Add the haricot verts and continue cooking until the beans are tender and the chicken and beef are completely cooked through, an additional 5 to 7 minutes.
To serve, remove the leeks and untie them. Divide the leeks and vegetables among shallow serving bowls, followed by the chicken and beef. Taste and adjust the seasoning of the broth with salt and pepper. Ladle some of the broth over the meat and vegetables. Serve with baguette slices, mustard, cornichons, horseradish, and salt and black pepper.
Serves 6
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 onion, preferably Vidalia, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
1 stalk celery, chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
4 cups chicken stock or low-fat, reduced-sodium chicken broth
3 cups (whole or lowfat) milk
4 russet potatoes, peeled and cubed (about 1¾ pounds)
3 cups packed grated sharp Cheddar cheese (about 12 ounces)
Snipped fresh chives, for garnish
Bacon Croutons (recipe follows), for garnish (optional)
In a large, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, celery, garlic, and thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 7 minutes. Sprinkle the flour over and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in the stock, and then the milk. Add the potatoes and bring the soup to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to low and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes.
Add the cheese, about ⅓ cup at a time, stirring until melted and smooth after each addition. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.
To serve, ladle the soup into warmed bowls. Sprinkle with chives and croutons and serve immediately.
Makes 2 cups
4 ounces country-style bread, cut into ½-inch cubes (about 3 cups)
6 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into lardons
1 tablespoon canola oil
Freshly ground black pepper
Position an oven rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. In a large bowl, combine the bread, bacon, oil, and pepper. Toss to coat. Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet. Bake, stirring occasionally, until the bacon is crisp and the croutons are golden, about 20 minutes.
Serves 4 to 6
4 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into lardons; 1 ounce fatback; or 2 tablespoons canola oil
1 onion, preferably Vidalia, chopped
2 large russet potatoes, peeled and cut into ¼-inch pieces
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 cups water
3 cups milk
1 sprig of thyme
1 bay leaf, preferably fresh
½ teaspoon Cajun seasoning, cayenne pepper, or Creole Seasoning
2 pounds catfish fillets, cut into strips
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
Line a plate with paper towels. In a saucepan, cook the bacon over medium heat until crisp, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the bacon to the prepared plate to drain. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the grease (reserve the excess fat for another use or dispose). Add the onion and potatoes to the saucepan and cook, stirring often, until golden, 5 to 7 minutes. Sprinkle over the flour and stir to coat and combine. Stir in the water and milk. Add the thyme, bay leaf, and Cajun seasoning. Bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to low and simmer until the potatoes are just tender, about 15 minutes.
Add the catfish and simmer, uncovered, until the fish is falling apart, an additional 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the thyme and bay leaf and discard. Add the parsley and stir to combine. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Ladle into warmed bowls and garnish with the reserved bacon.
Serves 6
2 cups dried black-eyed peas, washed and picked over for stones
4 to 6 cups chicken stock or low-fat, reduced-sodium chicken broth, plus more if necessary
2 smoked ham hocks
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 onion, preferably Vidalia, chopped
2 carrots, chopped
2 stalks celery, chopped
2 cloves garlic, very finely chopped
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 bunch collards, tough stems removed and discarded, leaves very thinly sliced in chiffonade
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
Place the peas in a large bowl and add water to cover. Soak overnight. Or place the peas in a large pot of water and bring to a boil over high heat, then remove from the heat and set aside for 1 hour. Discard any floating peas and drain before cooking.
In a pot, bring the stock and the ham hocks to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to low and simmer until the flavors have married, at least 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a large, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, carrots, and celery and cook until soft and translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 45 to 60 seconds. Drain the peas and add to the pot. Add the red pepper flakes and ham hocks with stock to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat, decrease the heat to low, and simmer until the peas are tender, 2 to 2½ hours.
Just before serving, bring the soup to a boil over high heat. Add the collards and stir to combine. Cook until wilted, about 5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Ladle into warmed bowls and serve immediately.
Vidalia Onion Soup with Bacon Flan
Serves 6
SOUP
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
8 onions, preferably Vidalia, sliced
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon firmly packed brown sugar
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
Bouquet garni (3 sprigs of flat-leaf parsley, 3 sprigs of thyme, 1 bay leaf, preferably fresh, 10 whole black peppercorns, tied together in cheesecloth)
½ cup dry sherry
6 cups beef stock or low-fat, reduced-sodium beef broth
FLAN
6 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into lardons
3 shallots, chopped
1½ cups whole milk
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
To prepare the soup, melt the butter in a large, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven over medium-low heat. Add the onions and season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with the brown sugar and cook, stirring just enough to keep the onions from sticking, until they are melt-ing and soft, golden brown, and beginning to caramelize, 30 to 45 minutes.
Sprinkle the flour over the onions, stirring to coat. Add the bouquet garni, sherry, and stock. Bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, for about 30 minutes. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.
To prepare the flan, line a plate with paper towels. Lightly butter six 4-ounce ramekins or small glass jars. Preheat the ovento 350°F.
In a skillet, cook the bacon over medium heat until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon to the prepared plate to drain. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the grease (reserve the excess fat for another use or dispose). Add the shallots, decrease the heat to medium-low, and cook until translucent, about 3 minutes. In the jar of a blender, combine the bacon, shallots, milk, and eggs. Puree until smooth. Season with salt and pepper.
Divide the custard among the prepared ramekins so that it fills each about ½ inch. Cover each ramekin with aluminum foil and place in a roasting pan. Pour enough hot water around the ramekins in the roasting pan so that the water comes halfway up the sides of the ramekins, creating a bain-marie (water bath). Bake until just set, but still wiggly and slightly soft in the center, about 30 minutes. Using a metal spatula or tongs, remove the ramekins from the bain-marie to a rack to cool. Run the blade of a thin metal spatula around the edge of the flan to loosen. Set aside.
When ready to serve, unmold the flans into the centers of warmed, shallow soup bowls and ladle the soup over. Alternatively, ladle the soup into the glass jars, if using, to see the layers of flan and soup. Serve immediately.
