Downtown

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

Downtown

Neighborhood Top Five

1Spending a few hours exploring a treasure trove of traditional and contemporary art at the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal.

2Getting your festival freak on with thousands of others when the jazz festival hits town at Place des Arts.

3Enjoying quiet time inside one of downtown’s beautiful historic churches, such as the Cathédrale Marie-Reine-du-Monde.

4Browsing the eye-catching boutiques and heritage buildings along Rue Sherbrooke Ouest.

5Learning all about cutting-edge building designers at the excellent Centre Canadien d’Architecture.

Explore Downtown

Downtown Montréal’s wide boulevards, glass skyscrapers and shopping galleries give the area a decidedly North American flavor, while numerous green spaces, eye-catching heritage buildings and 19th-century churches add a more European character to the bustling city streets. You can explore the area easily in the better part of a day with a pause for lunch.

Begin your tour at the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal, spending the morning taking in its vast collection of Old Masters and modern Canadian art, before grabbing a snack or lunch at nearby spots like the cafe in Cafe Aunja. Make your way along Rue Sherbrooke Ouest, passing the heritage houses and tiny businesses en route, before reaching McGill University, a bustling haven of green with its own museums.

From the university, you can climb toward Parc du Mont-Royal if you really want to stretch your legs, or turn down Ave McGill College to reach Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest, downtown’s main shopping drag. To the west, there’s Rue Crescent and Rue Bishop, the traditional anglophone centers of nightlife with an array of bars and restaurants. More shopping centers and the festival-oriented Quartier des Spectacles – including Place des Arts, the performing-arts complex and hub of the jazz festival – are within a short walk to the east along Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest. From Place des Arts, it’s easy to walk to Chinatown, and even Old Montréal, for dinner.

Local Life

APedaling Rent a Bixi bike and pedal up and down Blvd de Maisonneuve to the leafy suburb of Westmount.

AHiking Hoof it up hills such as Rue Peel to reach one of the entrances to Parc du Mont-Royal.

ADrinks, Theater Have a drink and a bite at Foodlab, then catch a play or a dance performance across the street at the Monument National.

Getting There & Away

AMetro Peel and McGill are both central and convenient.

ABus Bus 15 runs on Rue Ste-Catherine and Blvd de Maisonneuve, bus 24 on Rue Sherbrooke and bus 150 on Blvd René-Lévesque.

ABike Bixi bikes have numerous stations in the area. If you’re cycling, head to Blvd de Maisonneuve, which has separate protected bike lanes.

Lonely Planet’s Top Tip

While there's much to see during the day, downtown is also a major nighttime draw for the performing arts. It's worth planning an evening around a concert, play or performance happening in one of the top theaters. If hockey or Canadian football is more your speed, catch a game at the Bell Centre or Molson Stadium.

Best Places to Eat

For reviews, see Click here

A Joe Beef

A Jatoba

A Foodlab

A Café Parvis

A Satay Brothers

A Imadake

Best Places to Drink

For reviews, see Click here

A Bleury Bar à Vinyle

A Pub Ste-Élisabeth

A Dominion Square Tavern

A Burgundy Lion

A Benelux

A Le Vin Papillon

Best Entertainment

For reviews, see Click here

A Place des Arts

A Foufounes Electriques

A Upstairs

A Monument National

A Les Grands Ballets Canadiens de Montréal

TOP SIGHT

Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal

Musée des Beaux-Arts de MontréalGUYLAIN DOYLE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Montréal’s Museum of Fine Arts is an accessible and beautifully updated oasis of art housed in architecturally striking buildings. This is Canada’s oldest museum and the city’s largest, with works from Old Masters to contemporary artists.

The collection is currently housed in four pavilions. The beaux-arts, marble-covered Michal & Renata Hornstein Pavilion at 1379 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest presents World Cultures – everything from ancient African to modern Japanese art.

Behind this building is the Liliane & David M Stewart Pavilion, where you'll find an eye-catching decorative arts collection. Glass, ceramics, textiles, furniture and industrial design pieces from around the globe have been assembled.

Across Museum Ave, the Claire & Marc Bourgie Pavilion is situated in a renovated 1894 church and displays some magnificent works of Canadian and Québecois art. Head to the top floor to delve into Inuit art and its cultural legacy. The church’s Bourgie Concert Hall features gorgeous Tiffany stained-glass windows and live shows.

The modern Moshe Safdie–designed annex across Sherbrooke is the Jean-Noël Desmarais Pavilion, home to the Old and Modern Masters, with paintings from the Middle Ages stretching through the Renaissance and classical eras up to contemporary works. It can be reached via an underground passage from the Hornstein Pavilion.

On the horizon is a fifth pavilion, which will feature international works as well as an education center. It's scheduled to open in late 2016.

Don’t Miss

APablo Picasso’s Embrace

AJean-Paul Riopelle’s Austria

ABourgie pavilion

Practicalities

AMuseum of Fine Arts

A MAP GOOGLE MAP

Awww.mbam.qc.ca

A1380 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest

Apermanent collection adult/under 31 $12/free, special exhibitions $20/12

Ah10am-5pm Sat & Sun, 11am-5pm Tue-Fri, to 9pm Wed (special exhibition only)

AmGuy-Concordia

1Sights

Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal

Church of St James the ApostleCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-849-7577; www.stjamestheapostle.ca; 1439 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; h8am-5pm Wed & Sun; mGuy-Concordia)

Built in 1864 on a sports field for the British military, this Anglican church used to be called St Crickets in the Fields for the matches that unfolded here. The stained glass in the east transept, the Regimental Window, was donated in memory of the WWI fallen. The Writers’ Chapel honors Canadian poets and authors such as John Glassco and AJM Smith.

Le ChâteauHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1321 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; mGuy-Concordia)

This fortress-like apartment complex from 1926 was designed by the famed Montréal architects George Ross and Robert MacDonald. The style would do Errol Flynn proud: Scottish and French Renaissance with stone battlements, demons and pavilion roofs. Fossilized shells are visible in the limestone blocks. Famed local author Mordecai Richler resided here for more than 20 years.

Musée d'Art ContemporainMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.macm.org; 185 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; adult/child $14/5, 5-9pm Wed admission half-price; h11am-6pm Tue, to 9pm Wed-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun; mPlace-des-Arts)

This showcase of modern Canadian and international art has eight galleries divided between past greats (since 1939) and exciting current developments. A weighty collection of 7600 permanent works includes Québecois legends Jean-Paul Riopelle, Paul-Émile Borduas and Geneviève Cadieux, but also temporary exhibitions of the latest trends in current art from Canadian and international artists. Forms range from traditional to new media, from painting, sculpture and prints to installation art, photography and video.

Place des ArtsARTS CENTER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %box office 514-842-2112; www.placedesarts.com; 175 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; mPlace-des-Arts)

Montréal’s performing-arts center is the nexus for artistic and cultural events. Several renowned musical companies call the Place des Arts home, including the Opéra de Montréal and the Montréal Symphony Orchestra, based in the acoustically brilliant 2100-seat Maison Symphonique. It’s also center stage for the Festival International de Jazz de Montréal.

A key part of the Quartier des Spectacles, the complex embraces an outdoor plaza with fountains and an ornamental pool and is attached to the Complexe Desjardins shopping center via an underground tunnel. The six halls also include the 3000-seat Salle Wilfrid-Pelletier, where Les Grands Ballets Canadiens de Montréal and the Opéra de Montréal perform. The 1500-seat Théâtre Maisonneuve hosts variety shows, dance performances and circus arts; while the smaller Cinquième Salle hosts cabaret, experimental theater and small concerts.

Galeries d’Art Contemporain du BelgoARTS CENTER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thebelgoreport.com; 372 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; hhours vary; mPlace-des-Arts)

More than a decade ago the Belgo building was a rundown haven for struggling artists. It has since earned a reputation as one of Montréal’s most intriguing exhibition spaces with some 30 galleries and artist studios, along with dance, yoga and photography studios. Check the website for ongoing exhibitions and upcoming openings.

Maison du Festival Rio Tinto AlcanMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 305 Rue St-Cathereine Ouest; h11:30am-6pm Tue-Sat, to 5pm Sun; mPlace-des-Arts)

A key concert venue during the Jazz Festival, this multistory building hosts concerts year-round in the Salle l'Astral. It also has a small gallery with listening stations and memorabilia from some of the greats who've played at the fest. Check out Dave Brubeck's spectacles, Leonard Cohen's hat, Pat Metheny's guitar and Ella Fitzgerald's wig. A big video screen shows highlights from past concerts.

Musée McCordMUSEUM

(McCord Museum of Canadian History; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mccord-museum.qc.ca; 690 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; adult/student/child $14/8/free, special exhibitions extra $5, admission free after 5pm Wed; h10am-6pm Tue, Thu & Fri, to 9pm Wed, to 5pm Sat & Sun; mMcGill)

With hardly an inch to spare in its cramped but welcoming galleries, the McCord Museum of Canadian History houses thousands of artifacts and documents illustrating Canada’s social, cultural and archaeological history from the 18th century to the present day.

Musée RedpathMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 859 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sun; mMcGill)F

A Victorian spirit of discovery pervades this old natural-history museum, though you won’t find anything more gruesome than stuffed animals from the Laurentians hinterland. The Redpath Museum houses a large variety of specimens, including a dinosaur skeleton and seashells donated from around the world. A highlight is the 3rd-floor World Cultures Exhibits, which includes Egyptian mummies, shrunken heads and artifacts from ancient Mediterranean, African and East Asian communities.

Cathédrale Christ ChurchCATHEDRAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 635 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; h7am-6pm; mMcGill)

Montréal’s first Anglican bishop had this cathedral built (modeled on a church in Salisbury, England) and it was completed in 1859. The church was the talk of the town in the late 1980s when it allowed a shopping center, the Promenades de la Cathédrale, to be built underneath it. Spectacular photos show the house of worship resting on concrete stilts while construction went on underneath.

The interior is sober apart from the pretty stained-glass windows made by William Morris’ studios in London. In the rear cloister garden stands a memorial statue to Raoul Wallenberg, the Swedish diplomat who saved 100,000 Jews from the concentration camps in WWII.

McGill UniversityUNIVERSITY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mcgill.ca; 845 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; mMcGill)

Founded in 1828 by James McGill, a rich Scottish fur trader, McGill University is one of Canada’s most prestigious learning institutions, with 39,000 students. The university’s medical and engineering faculties have a fine reputation and many campus buildings are showcases of Victorian architecture. The campus, at the foot of Mont-Royal, is rather nice for a stroll and also incorporates the Musée Redpath.

St James United ChurchCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-288-9245; 463 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; h11am-4pm Tue & Thu, from 10am Fri & Sat, 9am-2pm Sun; mMcGill)

The excellent acoustics at St James United are coveted for organ and choir concerts as well as performances at the international jazz festival. The church was originally opened in 1889.

Illuminated CrowdMONUMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1981 Ave McGill College; mMcGill)

Constructed of polyester resin, Raymond Mason’s sculpture of 65 people is one of Montréal’s most photographed pieces of public art. The work shows a rather dark side of humanity. A crowd of onlookers stands pressed tightly together. The first row merely looks off into the distance, while behind them, the mood gradually degenerates as figures show a range of emotions – melancholy, fear, lust, hatred and terror.

A fine vantage point is on the 'Secret Bench', an evocative sculpture by Lea Vivot on the other side of Rue McGill.

Place Ville-MarieNOTABLE BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.placevillemarie.com; 1 Pl Ville-Marie; mMcGill)

Known for its rotating rooftop beacon that illuminates downtown at night, the 42-story Place Ville-Marie tower marked the beginning of Montréal’s Underground City five decades ago. Its cruciform shape was chosen to commemorate Maisonneuve’s planting of a great cross on Mont-Royal in 1642. Today it houses some 75 shops and restaurants, as well as 10,000 occupants.

Rue Sherbrooke OuestSTREET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mPeel)

Until the 1930s the downtown stretch of Rue Sherbrooke Ouest was home to the Golden Square Mile, one of the richest residential neighborhoods in Canada. You’ll see a few glorious old homes along this drag, including the Reid Wilson House, the Louis-Joseph Forget House and the Mount Royal Club. There are good interpretation panels outside them explaining their history. The route is also home to visit-worthy churches, some first-rate museums and strings of energetic students en route to McGill University.

Square DorchesterSQUARE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mPeel)

This leafy expanse in the heart of downtown was known until 1988 as Dominion Sq, a reminder of Canada’s founding in 1867. A Catholic cemetery was here until 1870 and bodies still lie beneath the grass. Events of all kinds have taken place here over the years – fashion shows, political rallies and royal visits.

The square still exudes the might of the British Empire, with statues of Boer War booster Lord Strathcona, Queen Victoria and poet Robert Burns, plus Wilfrid Laurier, Canada’s first francophone prime minister, who faces off a statue of John A Macdonald, the first anglophone prime minister, in Place du Canada across Blvd René-Lévesque Ouest. The city’s main tourist office lies on the square’s northwest side.

Rue Ste-Catherine OuestSTREET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mPeel, McGill, Place-des-Arts)

Lively Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest is one endless orgy of shops, restaurants, bars and cafes on the hyperactive stretch between Rue Crescent and Rue St-Urbain. Shopping malls, department stores and multiplex cinemas are sprinkled along the way. Shoppers flood the streets on weekends, slowing pedestrian traffic to a mere shuffle.

Maison AlcanHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1188 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; mPeel)

This mélange of four carefully restored 19th- and 20th-century buildings integrates the old Berkeley Hotel and four houses, including the Atholstan House, a Québec historic monument. To the rear is an intriguing atrium with a pretty garden. Also on the property stands the Emmanuel Congregation Church, which belongs to the Salvation Army.

The property was the symbolic headquarters of the Alcan aluminum concern (now part of Rio Tinto Alcan), before its sale in 2013 to Cirque de Soleil. According to rumor, the site may eventually be turned into a hotel and entertainment hall.

Cathédrale Marie-Reine-du-MondeCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-866-1661; 1085 Rue de la Cathédrale; h7:30am-6:15pm; mBonaventure)F

The Cathedral of Mary Queen of the World is a smaller but still magnificent version of St Peter’s Basilica in Rome. The architects scaled it down to a quarter of its size, mindful of the structural risks of Montréal’s severe winters. This landmark was built from 1870 to 1894 as a symbol of Catholic power in the heart of Protestant Montréal.

The 13 statues of saints over the entrance are sculpted in wood and covered with copper; at night they are brilliantly illuminated. The neobaroque altar canopy, a replica of Bernini’s masterpiece in St Peter’s, is fashioned of gold leaf and copper with swirled roof supports.

Gare WindsorHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-395-5164; 1160 de la Gauchetière Ouest; mBonaventure)

The massive Victorian building hugging the slope west of the Marriott Château Champlain is the old Windsor Station, opened in 1889 as the headquarters of the Canadian Pacific Railway. The Romanesque structure inspired a château style for train stations across the country; its architect, Bruce Price, would later build the remarkable Château Frontenac in Québec City.

Take a stroll through the restored Salle des pas perdus, a 25,000-sq-ft concourse, where millions of travelers once set off on train trips. Today, it's hauntingly vacant.

Place du CanadaPARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue Peel; mBonaventure)

This park immediately southeast of Sq Dorchester is best known for its monument of John A Macdonald, Canada’s first prime minister, who addressed the maiden session of parliament in Montréal. The two cannons around the base were captured in the Crimean War; if you look closely you’ll see the dual-headed eagle of Czar Nicholas I. The statue was decapitated by vandals in 1992 and the head vanished for two years.

Marché AtwaterMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 138 Ave Atwater; h7am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 7pm Thu, to 8pm Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; mAtwater)

Just off the Canal de Lachine, this fantastic market has a mouthwatering assortment of fresh produce from local farms, excellent wines, crusty breads, fine cheeses and other delectable fare. The market’s specialty shops operate year-round, while outdoor stalls open from March to October. The excellent Première Moisson is a popular cafe and bakery. It’s all housed in a 1933 brick hall, topped with a clock tower. The grassy banks overlooking the nearby Canal de Lachine make a great spot for a picnic.

Parisian LaundryGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-989-1056; www.parisianlaundry.com; 3550 Rue St-Antoine Ouest; hnoon-5pm Tue-Sat; mLionel-Groulx)

A former industrial laundry turned monster (15,000-sq-ft) gallery, this space is worth a trip for the old building itself even if you’re not a fan of contemporary art. Recent exhibitions have included works by New York conceptual artist Adam Pendleton and Québec sculptor Valérie Blass. Be sure to check out exhibits upstairs and in the basement.

St Patrick’s BasilicaCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-866-7379; www.stpatricksmtl.ca; 454 Blvd René-Lévesque Ouest; h9am-6pm; mSquare-Victoria)

Built for Montréal’s booming Irish population in 1847, the interior of St Patrick’s Basilica contains huge columns from single pine trunks, an ornate baptismal font and nectar-colored stained-glass windows. The pope raised its status to basilica in 1989, in recognition of its importance to English-speaking Catholics in Montréal. It’s a sterling example of French-Gothic style and, as you might expect, is classified a national monument.

The Irish-Canadian patriot D’Arcy McGee was buried here after his assassination in 1868; his pew (number 240) is marked with a small Canadian flag.

Centre Canadien d'ArchitectureMUSEUM

(CCA; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cca.qc.ca; 1920 Rue Baile; adult/child $10/free, 5:30-9pm Thu admission free; h11am-6pm Wed & Fri, to 9pm Thu, to 5pm Sat & Sun; mGeorgest-Vanier)

A must for architecture fans, this center is equal parts museum and research institute. The building incorporates the Shaughnessy House, a 19th-century gray limestone treasure. Highlights in this section include the conservatory and an ornate sitting room with intricate woodwork and a massive stone fireplace. The exhibition galleries focus on remarkable architectural works of both local and international scope, with a particular focus on urban design.

The CCA’s sculpture garden is located on a grassy lot overlooking south Montréal. There’s also a busy, well-stocked bookstore.

Montréal Canadiens Hall of FameMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-925-7777; www.hall.canadiens.com; 1909 Ave des Canadiens-de-Montréal; adult/child $11/8; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; mLucien-L'Allier)

Hockey fans can pay their respects to one of the greatest teams in hockey history at this small hall-of-fame museum inside the Bell Centre. The hall contains jerseys, game sticks, photos, memorabilia and info on the sport dating back to the early 1900s. If you want a peek in the locker rooms, you can add a guided tour of the arena for an extra $6 (not available on game days).

If you have tickets to a hockey game, tickets to the hall of fame are just $6 on the same day.

2Neighborhood Walk
Downtown

Start Sq Dorchester

End Musée des Beaux-Arts

Length 2.5km, two hours

Start at 1Square Dorchester. The statue to the northeast is of Lord Strathcona, a philanthropist who sponsored Canada’s efforts in the South African Boer War. Wander south for a statue of Sir Wilfrid Laurier (1841–1919), one of Canada’s most respected prime ministers.

Walk northwest to the upscale shopping complex 2Les Cours Mont-Royal. The central atrium has bird sculptures with human heads and a chandelier from a Monte Carlo casino.

Cut through the building and continue up Rue Metcalf. Turn right on Blvd de Maisonneuve Ouest and left on Ave McGill College. About 20m up the block on the right is the 3Illuminated Crowd sculpture. Designed by Raymond Mason, it illuminates the darker side of human nature. Head across Ave McGill College to the 4Secret Bench, a sensual work with a seated couple that provides a fine counterpoint to the unruly mob.

Continue on and turn left at Rue Sherbrooke Ouest, Montréal’s most prestigious residential street in the early 20th century. It features glorious old homes, including the 5Mount Royal Club, once an exclusive men-only club that now opens its doors to all.

Nearby, impressive 6Reid Wilson House is a mansion with its original carriage house in back. Continue along Sherbrooke; you’ll soon reach the 7Ritz-Carlton, which has a lavish afternoon tea in the Palm Court.

Further along Sherbrooke, you’ll pass fortress-like apartment complex 8Le Château, with vestiges of shell fossils in the limestone. Next door is a massive stone church with Tiffany stained-glass windows. It now houses the 9Salle Bourgie concert hall, part of the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal. End your tour with a look at the neoclassical facade of the museum's aMichal & Renata Hornstein Pavilion. Each symmetrical ionic column took six men three months to cut and shape with pneumatic hammers.

5Eating

oSatay BrothersASIAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.sataybrothers.com; 3721 Notre-Dame Ouest; mains $8-15; h11am-11pm Wed-Sun; mLionel-Groulx)

Amid red walls, hanging lamps and mismatched thrift-store furnishings, this lively and colorful spot serves some of the best 'street food' in Montréal. Crowds flock here to gorge on delicious chicken-satay sandwiches with peanut sauce served on grilled bread, tangy green papaya salad, braised pork (or tofu) buns, and laksa lemak, a rich and spicy coconut soup. It has great cocktails too.

The 30-something Winnicki brothers quickly gained a cult following after opening a food stall in Atwater market, which is still open in the summer.

Lola RosaVEGETARIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-287-9337; www.lola-rosa.ca; 545 Rue Milton; mains $10-13; hnoon-9:30pm; v; mMcGill)

On a leafy street near McGill, students, professors and the odd neighborhood regular not associated with the university flock to this charming vegetarian cafe. Even skeptical carnivores are won over by plates of creamy rich lasagna, sweet-potato and coconut-milk curry, and nachos piled high with black beans, mozzarella, avocado and sour cream.

Fresh juices, decent coffee and decadent desserts (try the chocolate cake with raspberry coulis) complete the picture. Lola Rosa also hosts a popular weekend brunch. There's a second location in the Plateau.

ImadakeJAPANESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-931-8833; www.imadake.ca; 4006 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; mains $6-15; hnoon-2:30pm Mon-Fri, 5-10:30pm nightly; mAtwater)

On the fringes of the Concordia Chinatown, Imadake is the closest thing to an authentic izakaya (Japanese pub-eatery) in the city. Staff scream irrashaimase! (welcome!) when you walk in, and there’s an excellent assortment of izakaya standbys such as tsukune (chicken meatballs), takoyaki (octopus croquettes) and okonomiyaki (Japanese pancake with seafood or pork). The ramen noodles are excellent.

KazuJAPANESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1862 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; mains $10-17; hnoon-3pm Sun, Mon & Wed-Fri, 5:30-9:30pm Wed-Mon; mGuy-Concordia)

Kazuo Akutsu’s frenetic hole-in-the-wall in the Concordia Chinatown draws long lines of people waiting for gyoza (dumplings), ramen noodle soup and awesome creations such as the 48-hour pork, attesting to its popularity.

ThaliINDIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thalimontreal.com; 1409 Rue St-Marc; mains $5-10; h11:30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 1-11pm Sat, 4-10pm Sun; mGuy-Concordia)

A popular budget gem in the Concordia Chinatown, Thali offers quick plates of delish Indian fare, with three-course specials for $8 to $10. The naan bread, butter chicken and lamb kebab are particularly delectable.

PatriceBAKERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2360 Rue Notre Dame Ouest; pastries $3-5; h10:30am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-6:30pm Sat, 9:30am-5pm Sun; mLionel-Groulx)

This elegantly designed patisserie has a modern, Scandinavian-like design, which makes a fine backdrop to the heavenly creations prepared here. Perennial favorites: the Kouign Amman (a Breton-style butter cake), choux a la creme (a mix of chocolate, caramel and banana cream enclosed in pastries), and the chocolate-coffee St Henri cake. At lunch, you can get soup, salads and sandwiches.

Cafe AunjaCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.aunja.com; 1448 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; snacks $4-10; h10am-10pm; mGuy-Concordia)

Despite the location along busy Sherbrooke, Cafe Aunja feels like a peaceful oasis from the downtown bustle. Changing artwork adorns the brick walls of this Persian teahouse, and there's a regular lineup of readings and live music. A mix of book- and laptop-absorbed people and quietly chatting friends gather over creamy lattes and steaming pots of tea.

Sandwiches, salads and soups round out the menu.

BoustanLEBANESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2020 Rue Crescent; mains $5-10; h11am-4am Mon-Sat, from 5pm Sun; mGuy-Concordia)

This friendly little Lebanese joint scores high in popularity on the city’s shwarma circuit because of its delicious toasted pita sandwiches. Its late hours make it a favorite with pub crawlers in need of sustenance between bars.

Pikolo Espresso BarCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pikoloespresso.com; 3418b Ave du Parc; h7:45am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun; W; mPlace-des-Arts)

Plateau hipsters roll up to this friendly split-level joint nestled in a heritage building at the bottom of Ave du Parc for its yummy baked goods and the signature drink, the Pikolo. Its ristretto shot of espresso goes down very smoothly indeed.

MyriadeCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1432 Rue Mackay; h7:30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun; mGuy-Concordia)

A few steps from Concordia, Myriade is a small student favorite for its perfectly pulled espressos and well-balanced lattes (with beans from 49th Parallel and Phil & Sebastien). There is no wi-fi, so it draws more conversationalists than MacBook users. The drawback: there's not a lot of seating.

oCafé ParvisBISTRO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-764-3589; www.cafeparvis.com; 433 Rue Mayor; small plates $6-8; h7am-11pm Mon-Fri, 11am-11pm Sat, 11am-3pm Sun; v; mPlace-des-Arts)

Hidden away on a quiet lane of downtown, Cafe Parvis is set with oversized windows, hanging plants, old wooden floorboards and vintage fixtures. Once part of the fur district, this cleverly repurposed room serves up delicious pizzas in inventive combinations (such as smoked salmon, fennel and mascarpone; or roasted vegetables with Gruyère).

These are matched by equally creative salads (such as beets, pears and goat's cheese). Dishes are small; you'll want to order a few.

oLe Vin PapillonINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.vinpapillon.com; 2519 Rue Notre-Dame Ouest; small plates $7-17; h3pm-midnight Tue-Sat; v; mLionel-Groulx)

The folks behind Joe Beef continue the hit parade with this delightful wine bar and small-plate eatery next door to Liverpool House (another Joe Beef success). Creative, mouthwatering veggie dishes take top billing with favorites such as tomato and chickpea salad, sauteed chanterelles, or smoked eggplant caviar, along with roasted cauliflower with chicken skin, guinea-fowl confit, and charcuterie and cheese platters.

No reservations – so go early!

FoodlabINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-844-2033; www.sat.qc.ca/fr/foodlab; 3rd fl, 1201 Blvd St-Laurent; mains $15-25; h5-11pm Tue-Fri; mSt-Laurent)

On the upper floor of SAT, Foodlab is a creative culinary space, where the small menu changes every two weeks, and ranges across the globe. It's a casual but handsomely designed space, where patrons perch on bar stools, sipping creative cocktails and watching fast-moving chefs in the open kitchen.

There's outdoor seating in the summer and a yurt set up in the winter.

Le Balsam InnITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-507-9207; www.lebalsaminn.com; 1237 Rue Metcalfe; small plates $12-18; h11:30am-midnight Tue-Fri, from 4:30pm Sat & Sun; mPeel)

A charming addition to the downtown dining scene, Le Balsam Inn serves up delectable plates of Italian fare, with standouts such as citrus-drizzled calamari, osso buco with polenta, and pasta with pancetta and parmesan. It's also a great spot for an evening (or afternoon) libation with a good wine selection and well-executed cocktails.

It has a warm, old-time ambience with wood-paneled walls and a long candle-lined bar.

FurusatoJAPANESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-849-3438; 2137 Rue de Bleury; mains $16-34; hnoon-2pm Tue-Fri, 6-9:30pm Tue-Sat; mPlace-des-Arts)

This humble eatery presents some of the most authentic Japanese in town. Ultrafresh sushi, decent sake, shrimp and vegetable tempura, sukiyaki and grilled horse mackerel (hokke) are some of the stars of the menu, along with black-sesame ice cream for dessert. Reservations recommended.

Le TajINDIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-845-9015; www.restaurantletaj.com; 2077 Rue Stanley; mains $18-23; h11:30am-2:30pm Sun-Fri, 5-10:30pm daily; v; mPeel)

Le Taj throws down the gauntlet for some excellent Indian dishes. The time to go is at lunch, when downtowners line up for a succulent buffet ($16) featuring a bounty of rich flavors from the East – tandoori chicken, vegetable korma, palaak paneer and tender lamb, along with steaming piles of naan bread, custard-like desserts and many other temptations.

Bistro IsakayaJAPANESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-845-8226; www.bistroisakaya.com; 3469 Ave du Parc; mains $19-26; h11:30am-2pm Tue-Fri, 6-10pm Tue-Sat, 5:30-9pm Sun; mPlace-des-Arts, then bus 80 or 129)

This authentic, unpretentious Japanese restaurant has fairly simple decor but the fish is incredibly fresh. The owner, Shige Minagawa, is known for handpicking his seafood and preparing it in classic Japanese fashion.

PhayathaiTHAI

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-933-9949; 1235 Rue Guy; mains $15-20; h11:30am-2:30pm Tue-Fri, 5-10pm Tue-Sun; v; mGuy-Concordia)

Just off the beaten track, this elegant little restaurant serves some of the best Thai cuisine in town. Fresh-tasting curries, crispy boneless duck and seafood plates are among the many delicacies from the East.

Mango BayCARIBBEAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-875-7082; www.mangobay.ca; 1202 Rue Bishop; mains $13-20; hnoon-10pm Mon-Fri, 3pm-midnight Sat, 5-10pm Sun; mGuy-Concordia)

Situated in a converted Victorian house with pretty stained-glass windows, Mango Bay serves up authentic chicken jerky or stew, curried goat or island chicken fajitas with a terrific side order of plantain. Watch out for the incendiary hot sauces, and be sure to save room for a slice of the signature mango cheesecake or rum cake.

Reuben’sDELI

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-866-1029; 1116 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; mains $10-21; h6:30am-midnight Mon-Fri, 8am-midnight Sat & Sun; mPeel)

A classic, long-running deli, Reuben’s has squishy booths and a long counter, where patrons line up for towering smoked-meat sandwiches served with big-cut fries. Burgers, smoked pork chops and other old-school favorites round out the menu. Try to avoid the busy lunch rush.

Joe BeefQUéBECOIS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-935-6504; www.joebeef.ca; 2491 Rue Notre-Dame Ouest; mains $29-50; h6pm-late Tue-Sat; mLionel-Groulx)

In the heart of the Little Burgundy neighborhood, Joe Beef is the current darling of food critics for its unfussy, market-fresh fare. The rustic, country-kitsch setting is a great spot to linger over fresh oysters, braised rabbit, roasted scallops with smoked onions and a changing selection of hearty Québecois dishes – all served with good humor and a welcome lack of pretension.

In summer, some of the best seats are in the backyard garden. Reserve weeks in advance.

JatobaASIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-871-1184; www.jatobamontreal.com; 1184 Pl Phillips; mains $24-39; h11:30am-2:30pm & 5pm-1am Mon-Fri, 5pm-3am Sat; v; mMcGill)

Celebrated chef Antonio Park is behind the menu at this artfully designed space just off Pl Phillips. Park, who was born to Korean parents but grew up in South America and went to cooking school in Japan brilliantly melds flavors from around the globe.

Yellowfin sashimi with Asian pear and jalapeño, king oyster mushrooms in a sweet miso gratin, and beef tataki with truffle peaches and puffed quinoa are among the outstanding dishes.

Ferreira CaféPORTUGUESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-848-0988; www.ferreiracafe.com; 1446 Rue Peel; mains $26-45; hnoon-3pm Mon-Fri, 5:30-11pm Mon-Wed, 5:30pm-midnight Thu-Sat, 5:30-10pm Sun; mPeel)

This warm and inviting restaurant serves some of Montréal’s best Portuguese fare. The cataplana (a bouillabaisse-style seafood stew) is magnificent, tender morsels of grilled fish come to the table cooked to perfection, while meat-lovers can feast on rack of lamb or spice-rubbed Angus rib-eye steak. Late diners can enjoy three-course, $24 meals from 10pm to close.

THE UNDERGROUND CITY

Brilliant marketing that conjures up images of subterranean skyscrapers and roads has made the underground city one of the first things visitors seek out when they travel to Montréal.

The underground city doesn’t actually have any of these things. What it does have is a network of some 2600 shops, 200 restaurants and 40-odd cinemas, theaters and exhibition halls, all hidden neatly beneath the surface in more than 30km of tunnels and underground spaces. For most travelers, it’s a major letdown, because no matter what tourism officials call it, it is basically just a kind of colossal network of interlocking shopping malls. Where it does get interesting, however, is for residents living in downtown Montréal, as it gives them a reprieve from winter – hundreds of thousands use it every day of the year.

The 60-odd distinct complexes that make up this network are linked by brightly lit, well-ventilated corridors; fountains play to maintain humidity and the temperature hovers around 20°C. Add the metro and you have a self-contained world, shielded from the subarctic temperatures. If you move to Montréal and pick the right apartment building, it could literally be the middle of winter and you would be able to go to work, do your grocery shopping, go see a movie and take in a performance at Place des Arts and never need more than a T-shirt.

6Drinking & Nightlife

BeneluxMICROBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.brasseriebenelux.com; 245 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; h2pm-3am Sat-Wed, from 11am Thu & Fri; W; mPlace-des-Arts)

Benelux deserves high praise for its beautifully crafted microbrews, with a dozen or so offerings on hand (including one cask ale). Options rotate regularly, though long-time favorites are always on hand, such as Sabotage IPA and the blond Lux. Knowledgeable bartenders are happy to guide you in the right direction.

You can match those drafts with panini or Benelux's famed 'EuroDog' juicy veal or pork hot dog, garnished with sauerkraut and served on baguette.

BiiruBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-903-1555; 1433 Rue City Councillors; h11:30am-2pm Tue-Fri, 5:30-10pm Tue-Thu, 5.30-11pm Fri & Sat; mMcGill)

Despite the name, this colorfully designed izakaya doesn't serve much biiru (beer). What it does have: creative cocktails, tasty snacks and a festive environment that draws the afterwork crowd. You can nibble on gyoza (dumplings), duck magret salad or mushroom okonomiyaki (Japanese pancake), while admiring the Hokusai-inspired mural and engaging in the discreet art of people-watching.

FurcoCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-764-3588; www.barfurco.com; 425 Rue Mayor; h4pm-3am; mPlace-des-Arts)

In a previous life, this stylish, but industrial hideaway was a fur factory, and its raw concrete pillars, copper bar and modular light fixtures form the backdrop to a buzzing eating and drinking scene just a short stroll from Place-des-Arts. You'll find well-crafted cocktails and upmarket snacks (come for $1 oysters on Sundays and Mondays).

Heartier fare includes seared cod or pork and mushroom dumplings. Come early to beat the crowds.

Bleury Bar à VinyleBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.vinylebleury.ca; 2109 Rue de Bleury; h7pm-3am Tue, from 8pm Wed-Thu, 9pm-3am Fri & Sat; mPlace-des-Arts)

It's in a bit of a nightlife desert, but this cozy lounge-like space is well worth the trip if you're into music. A blend of DJs and live bands mix things up, with a packed calendar of soul, funk, new-wave disco, world beats and house music. Bleury Bar draws a young, friendly crowd and the cocktails are first-rate.

There's a small cover charge (most nights around $4 to $7), though Tuesdays are free.

oDominion Square TavernTAVERN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.dominiontavern.com; 1245 Rue Metcalfe; h11:30am-midnight Mon-Fri, 4:30pm-midnight Sat & Sun; mPeel)

Once a down-and-out watering hole dating from the 1920s, this beautifully renovated tavern recalls a classic French bistro but with a long bar, English pub–style. Executive chef Éric Dupuis puts his own spin on pub grub, with mussels cooked with bacon, and smoked trout salad with curry dressing.

PullmanBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-288-7779; www.pullman-mtl.com; 3424 Ave du Parc; h4:30pm-midnight; mPlace-des-Arts)

This beautifully designed wine bar is a favorite haunt of the 30-something set. It’s primarily a restaurant, but the downstairs bar of this two-level space gets jammed (or jammé, as they say in Franglais) after work and becomes quite a pickup spot, so be prepared to engage in some flirting. Knowledgeable staff can help you choose from the sprawling wine list.

oBurgundy LionPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-934-0888; www.burgundylion.com; 2496 Rue de Notre-Dame Ouest; h11:30am-3am Mon-Fri, 9am-3am Sat & Sun; mLionel-Groulx)

This trendy take on the English pub features British pub fare, beers and whiskies galore, and an attitude-free vibe where everyone (and their parents) feels welcome to drink, eat and be merry. Things get the good kind of crazy late-night weekends. Tip your cap to Queen Elizabeth, whose portrait adorns the bathroom door.

McKibbin’sPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-288-1580; www.mckibbinsirishpub.com; 1426 Rue Bishop; h11:30am-3am; mGuy-Concordia)

With its garage-sale furniture, McKibbin’s cultivates a familiar, down-at-heel pub atmosphere. Its live entertainment varies from Celtic and pop to punk music. The office crowd pops in at lunchtime for burgers, chicken wings and salads.

NYKSPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-866-1787; www.nyks.ca; 1250 Rue de Bleury; h11am-3am Mon-Fri, 4pm-3am Sat; mPlace-des-Arts)

Its artsy-chic vibe makes this warm bistro pub the preferred lunch and after-work spot of Plateau cool kids who happen to work in downtown offices. Daily happy hours and pub finger-foods are a joy to downtowners seeking an authentic experience. Sometimes it even has live jazz.

UpstairsJAZZ

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-931-6808; www.upstairsjazz.com; 1254 Rue Mackay; h11:30am-1am Mon-Fri, 5:30pm-2am Sat, 6:30pm-1am Sun; mGuy-Concordia)

This slick downtown bar hosts quality jazz and blues acts nightly, featuring both local and touring talent. The walled terrace behind the bar is enchanting at sunset, and the dinner menu features inventive salads and meals such as the Cajun bacon burger.

BrutopiaBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.brutopia.net; 1219 Rue Crescent; h2pm-3am Sat-Thu, noon-3am Fri; mGuy-Concordia)

This fantastic brewpub has eight varieties of suds on tap, including honey beer, nut brown and the more challenging raspberry blonde. The brick walls and wood paneling are conducive to chats among the relaxed student crowd. Live blues bands play nightly (from 10pm). It really picks up after the night classes from nearby Concordia get out.

Hurley’s Irish PubPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-861-4111; www.hurleysirishpub.com; 1125 Rue Crescent; h11am-3am; mGuy-Concordia)

This cozy place on bar-lined Rue Crescent features live rock and fiddling Celtic folk on the rear stage and beer-soaked football and soccer matches on big-screen TVs. Classic pub grub – Irish lamb stew, fish ‘n’ chips and burgers – is also served.

Le Vieux Dublin Pub & RestaurantPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-861-4448; www.dublinpub.ca; 636 Rue Cathcart; h11am-3am Mon-Sat, 4pm-3am Sun; mMcGill)

The city’s oldest Irish pub has the expected great selection of brews (from $7 to $9 per pint) and live Celtic or pop music nightly. Curries rub shoulders with burgers on the menu. It has 50 single-malts.

Pub Ste-ÉlisabethPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ste-elisabeth.com; 1412 Rue Ste-Élisabeth; h4pm-3am; mBerri-UQAM)

Tucked off a side street, this handsome little pub is frequented by many for its heavenly vine-covered courtyard and drinks menu with a great selection of beers, whiskies and ports. It has a respectable lineup of beers on tap, including imports and microbrewery fare such as Boréale Noire and Cidre Mystique.

Sir Winston Churchill PubPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.winniesbar.com; 1455 Rue Crescent; h11:30am-3am; mGuy-Concordia)

This Rue Crescent staple is the go-to spot of the block. Winnie’s cavernous, split-level pub draws a steady crowd of tourists and students and an older Anglo crowd. Among multiple bars, pool tables and pulsating music, meals are served all day and happy-hour drink specials abound.

Club SodaLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-286-1010; www.clubsoda.ca; 1225 Blvd St-Laurent; adult/student $5/3; h9pm-3am; mSt-Laurent)

This venerable club hosts some of the city’s most eclectic bands. Up-and-coming indie-rock, punk, metal, country and hip-hop groups have all taken the stage, as have well-known stars like Bebel Gilberto and Rufus Wainwright. There are also tribute nights (to Pink Floyd, the Doors, Italian metal bands), evenings of comedy, and the odd Muay Thai match.

Check the website to see what's on.

House of JazzJAZZ

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-842-8656; www.houseofjazz.ca; 2060 Rue Aylmer; h4-11:30pm Mon, 11:30am-1:30am Tue-Fri, 5pm-1:30am Sat & Sun; mMcGill)

Formerly known as Biddle’s, this mainstream-but-excellent jazz club and restaurant changed names when owner-bassist Charlie Biddle passed away in 2003. Today, Southern-style cuisine and live jazz are on the menu daily. Prepare to wait if you haven’t reserved. Cover is $5 to $12.

Concerts happen at 7:30pm from Sunday to Thursday and at 6:30pm and 9:30pm on Friday and Saturday.

MONTRéAL BY BIXI

Montréal is one of the most bike-friendly cities in North America, with hundreds of kilometers of bicycle paths across the city. In 2009 the city unveiled Bixi, an extensive network of bike-renting stations around town, with bikes available from mid-April through October. For short jaunts, it’s great value (24-hour/72-hour subscription fee is $5/12; bikes are free the first 45 minutes and $1.75 for the next 15 minutes). If you're just going to use it once for a quick jaunt, opt for the one-way trip – which, at $2.75 costs less than a bus fare. The network includes more than 5000 bikes scattered around 400 stations. Bixi has since inspired bike-rental systems in other cities, including London and New York City.

Checking out a bike from a stand is easy. Just insert a credit card and follow the instructions. The majority of Bixi stands display a network map showing other docking stations across the city. Once you dock the bike, you must wait two minutes before checking out another one. Just reinsert your credit card and go. (Bixi tallies up the charges at the end of a 24-hour period. As long as you always return a bike within 45 minutes, you’ll only be charged the one-time fare.) Although the bikes are fine for short hops, the pricing structure discourages longer trips (it costs $1.75 for 45- to 60-minutes of usage, $3.50 for the next 30 minutes and $7 for every 30 minutes thereafter). If you’re planning a long day’s outing along the Canal de Lachine, it’s better to rent from a bike shop.

3Entertainment

Place des ArtsPERFORMING ARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %box office 514-842-2112; www.placedesarts.com; 175 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; mPlace-des-Arts)

Montréal’s premier music venue, the storied Place des Arts is at the heart of the growing Quartier des Spectacles.

L’AstralMUSIC VENUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sallelastral.com; 305 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; mPlace-des-Arts)

Recent renovations to the century-old Blumenthal Building have added another venue to Montréal’s jazz fest as part of the Quartier des Spectacles. With more than 300 seats and standing room for 600, L’Astral nestles in the Maison du Festival Rio Tinto Alcan, which also houses Le Balmoral, a jazz club and bistro with a patio on the ground floor.

Monument NationalPERFORMING ARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-871-2224; www.monumentnational.com; 1182 Blvd St-Laurent; mSt-Laurent)

Québec's oldest theater still in use, the grand Monument National opened in 1893, and has been showing a wide range of cultural fare ever since. Shows here run the gamut from Molière to Sam Shepard, with acting, directing and technical production performed by graduating students of the National Theatre School.

True to the city's bilingual roots, the theater stages works in both French and English. There are two halls, one with 800 seats, the other with 150. The smaller theater stages about three original works a year by student playwrights. Comedy and modern dance are also part of the repertoire.

Les Grands Ballets Canadiens de MontréalDANCE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-842-2112; www.grandsballets.qc.ca; Pl des Arts; mPlace-des-Arts)

You can be assured of a treat if you see Québec’s leading ballet troupe. As well as staging six shows per season (October through May) annually in Montréal at various venues, the dancers head off on several international tours per year. Its classical and modern programs are both innovative and accessible.

Recent hits include adaptations of The Little Prince and Anna Karenina as well as more traditional fare such as Don Quixote. Check the website for details.

Orchestre Symphonique de MontréalCLASSICAL MUSIC

(OSM; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-842-9951; www.osm.ca/en; 1600 Rue St-Urbain, Maison Symphonique, Pl des Arts; mPlace-des-Arts)

This internationally renowned orchestra plays to packed audiences in its Place des Arts base, the Maison Symphonique de Montréal, a venue with spectacular acoustics that was inaugurated in 2011. The OSM’s Christmas performance of The Nutcracker is legendary.

Rock-star conductor Kent Nagano, a Californian with a leonine mane and stellar credentials, took over as music director in 2006 and has proven very popular. Check for free concerts at the Basilique Notre-Dame, the Olympic Stadium and in municipal parks in the Montréal area.

Cinéma du ParcCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-281-1900; www.cinemaduparc.com; 3575 Ave du Parc; mPlace-des-Arts, then bus 80)

Located in the lower level of the Galeries du Parc complex, Montréal’s English-language repertory cinema is a tried-and-true favorite of Plateau cinephiles. It shows cult classics as well as cool new releases and lots of foreign films. Despite the shabby decor, its charm and authenticity add to the cinematic experience.

Cinéma Banque Scotia MontréalCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cineplex.com; 977 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; mPeel)

This entertainment monstrosity features crowds darting through junk-food kiosks amid a riot of flashing lights and booming sounds to get to the IMAX megascreens. One step up from IMAX, is the D-Box cinema, where movie-goers can feel vibrations in their seats, which sync to the action and audio on screen. Hollywood blockbusters are the general fare at this multilevel cinema.

MetropolisLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-844-3500; www.montrealmetropolis.ca; 59 Rue Ste-Catherine Est; mSt-Laurent)

Housed in a former art-deco cinema, this beautiful old space (capacity 2300) has featured everyone from indie rockers Interpol to blues legend Buddy Guy to local favorite Jean Leloup. It’s sometimes used as a party or rave venue with DJs and dancing. Buy tickets at the box office (1413 Rue St-Dominique) around the corner.

Pollack Concert HallCONCERT VENUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mcgill.ca/music; 555 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; mMcGill)

McGill University’s main music hall features concerts and recitals from its students and faculty, notably the McGill Chamber Orchestra. It’s in the stately 19th-century building behind the statue of Queen Victoria.

SATARTS CENTER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-844-2033; www.sat.qc.ca; 1195 Blvd St-Laurent; mSt-Laurent)

Officially called La Société des Arts Technologiques, this slick warehouse and new-media space hosts a range of thought-provoking fare. The 360-degree Satosphere shows cutting-edge audiovisual works, while the Espace Sat stages technology-driven exhibitions and the odd theater troupe and performing artist. Also on-site (on the third floor, next to the Satosphere) is Foodlab, a creative eating and drinking venue.

Throughout the year, SAT holds the occasional party night. DJs and performance artists push the envelope with banks of multimedia installations, while an arty, electro-loving fan base dance and carouse.

I Musici de MontréalCLASSICAL MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-982-6038; www.imusici.com; 279 Rue Sherbrooke Est; mSt-Laurent)

Under the leadership of Jean-Marie Zeitouni, this 12-member chamber ensemble has won many awards for its baroque and contemporary performances. Over the past 20 years I Musici has recorded more than 30 CDs and toured the world. They play in a variety of venues, including the Chapelle Historique du Bon-Pasteur.

Opéra de MontréalOPERA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-985-2258; www.operademontreal.com; Pl des Arts; mPlace-des-Arts)

Holds lavish stage productions in the Salle Wilfrid-Pelletier that feature big names from Québec and around the world. The repertoire includes four or five operas each year, with a focus on classics such as Madame Butterfly, The Barber of Seville and Turandot, as well as contemporary works – such as the Pulitzer Prize–winning Silent Night, which premiered in 2011.

Translations (French and English) are run on a video screen above the stage. Tickets cost around $49 to $121 during the week and slightly more on Saturday.

Orchestre MétropolitainCLASSICAL MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-842-2112; www.orchestremetropolitain.com; 1600 Rue St-Urbain; mPlace-des-Arts)

This hip 60-member orchestra is comprised of young professional musicians from all over Québec, and led by conductor Yannick Nézet-Séguin. The orchestra’s mission is to democratize classical music, so aside from playing inside the swish Maison Symphonique at Place des Arts, you may see the orchestra playing Mahler or Haydn in churches or colleges in the city’s poorest neighborhoods for reduced admission.

Ticket prices start at $33 ($29 for those age 34 and under, and just $12 for youths).

SalsathèqueDANCE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-875-0016; www.salsatheque.ca; 1220 Rue Peel; h10pm-3am Thu-Sat; mPeel)

This bright, busy, dressy place presents large live salsa bands pumping out tropical rhythms. The Latin community (and their admirers) come out in droves to tear up the dance floor. When you need a break, you can refuel with a margarita while watching the 25-to-50s crowd gyrate into exhaustion.

SharxBILLIARDS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-934-3105; www.sharx.ca; 1606 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; h11am-3am; mGuy-Concordia)

This underground cavern has no fewer than 25 billiard tables amid a vaguely club-like setting, with loud pumping music, low lighting and an industrial design. The 10-lane bowling alley is bathed in fluorescent light with glowing balls and pins. It draws a younger crowd – though not too young; it's age 18 and up. There's also a golf simulator.

Foufounes ÉlectriquesLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.foufouneselectriques.com; 87 Rue Ste-Catherine Est; h4pm-3am; mSt-Laurent)

A one-time bastion of the alternafreak, this cavernous quintessential punk venue still stages some wild music nights (rockabilly, ska, metal), plus the odd one-off (a night of pro-wrestling or an indoor skateboarding contest). On weekends the student-grunge crowd plays pool and quaffs brews with electro kids and punk stragglers. DJ nights range from free to $8. Concerts cost $10 to $25.

WORTH A DETOUR

WANDERING IN WESTMOUNT

Though short on traditional sights, the leafy, upper-class neighborhood of Westmount makes for a good afternoon stroll. Here you’ll find a mix of sleepy backstreets set with Victorian mansions and manicured parks (parts of the city were named a national historic site in 2012), while the main boulevard, Rue Sherbrooke Ouest, has high-end boutiques, cafes and bistros. Wander about and grab a bite while you’re there.

The town’s highlight is Westmount Park & Library ( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-989-5300; 4575 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; h10am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; mAtwater). The lovely Westmount Park encompasses pathways, streams and concealed nooks that recall the whimsical nature of English public gardens. The Westmount Public Library, built in 1899, stands stolid, with its Romanesque brickwork, leaded glass and delightful bas-reliefs dedicated to wisdom. The attached Westmount Conservatory is a gorgeous 1927 greenhouse where time stands still among the orchids.

Walking northwest from Westmount Park, you’ll pass increasingly large and expensive homes as you climb to Summit Woods and Summit Lookout, a 57-acre forest and bird sanctuary atop the hill of Westmount with a belvedere commanding views of the St Lawrence River. Following Summit Circle road and Chemin Belvedere, you can soon walk to Parc du Mont-Royal and Cimetière Notre-Dame-des-Neiges.

Back down along Rue Sherbrooke Ouest, the faux medieval towers of Westmount City Hall ( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-989-5200; 4333 Côte St-Antoine; h8:30am-4:30pm Mon-Fri; mVendôme then bus 104) come as a surprise after the skyscrapers of downtown. This Tudor gatehouse in rough-hewn stone looks like something from an English period drama. A lawn-bowling green lies in the rear.

For a bite to eat, sidewalk cafes and window-shopping, take a stroll along the boutique-lined Avenue Greene to the northeast of Westmount City Hall. Westmount Square ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Ave Greene & Blvd de Maisonneuve Ouest; mAtwater) is a chic 1966 mall by architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe.

For a bite to eat, stop in Chez Nick ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-935-0946; www.cheznick.ca; 1377 Ave Greene; mains $10-16; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, 8am-6pm Sun; mAtwater), a classic diner on Ave Greene that's been going strong since 1920.

7Shopping

Henri HenriFASHION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.henrihenri.ca; 189 Rue Ste-Catherine Est; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; mSt-Laurent)

Going strong since 1932, this classy millinery sells an impressive assortment of hats, including top global brands such as Stetson, Akubra and Kangol, as well as the Henri Henri house brand. You'll also find gloves, scarves, suspenders and other gentlemanly attire.

Curious historical footnote: between 1950 and 1970, Henri Henri used to award a free hat to a hockey player who scored three goals or more in a match at the Montréal forum – and hence the origin of the term 'hat trick'.

Candy LabsFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.candylabs.ca; 2305 Rue Guy; h11am-7pm Sun-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri; mGuy-Concordia)

Head to this bright little shop for jewel-like hard candy. You can watch the candy makers in action since these artful sweets are made onsite, and then packaged in pretty glass jars that make great gifts. There are some 40 flavors available, and the friendly staff are happy to let you sample a wide assortment.

Salvation ArmyCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1620 Rue Notre Dame Ouest; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat; mLucien l'Allier)

This sprawling secondhand store has seemingly endless racks of clothes, plus 99¢ books (French and English), records, sports gear (including skis and snowboards) and more.

Holt RenfrewDEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-842-5111; www.holtrenfrew.com; 1300 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed & Sat, to 9pm Thu & Fri, 11am-6pm Sun; mPeel)

This Montréal institution is a godsend for label-conscious, cashed-up professionals and upscale shoppers. From fragrances to cosmetics, jewelry and men’s and women’s fashion, Holt’s is the go-to spot for prestigious brands such as Gucci and Prada. Services include personal shoppers and concierges, and the excellent Holts Café.

Les Cours Mont-RoyalMALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lcmr.ca; 1455 Rue Peel; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, to 5pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun; mPeel)

This elegant shopping mall is a reincarnation of the Mount Royal Hotel (1922), at the time the largest hotel in the British Empire. The 1000-room hotel was converted into a snazzy mix of condos and fashion boutiques in 1988. You’ll find designer names like Ursula B, DKNY and Desigual among the boutiques here.

Under the skylight you’ll see various birdman sculptures by Inuit artist David Pioukuni. The spectacular chandelier is from Monte Carlo’s old casino.The attractive atrium food court is also a notch above most mall eateries, with sushi, Thai, Tex-Mex and other options on hand.

Hudson Bay CoDEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-281-4422; www.thebay.com; 585 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; h10am-7pm Sun-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, 9am-7pm Sat; mMcGill)

La Baie, as it’s called in French, found fame three centuries ago for its striped wool blankets used to measure fur skins. The unique blankets are still available, in wool and fleece, on the ground floor. Take the escalators to reach the clothing boutiques, where you can find all the top labels (Theory, Moschino, Ralph Lauren, Stella McCartney, John Varvatos).

Prices are high, though periodic sales can lead to some great deals.

Eva BVINTAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.eva-b.ca; 2015 Blvd St-Laurent; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat, noon-7pm Sun; mSt-Laurent)

Stepping into this graffiti-smeared building on St-Laurent, is like entering a theater’s backstage with a riot of fur coats, bowling shirts, cowboy boots, leather jackets, wigs, suede handbags, summer dresses, wildly patterned sweaters and denim of all shapes and sizes. There's lots of junk, but prices are low, and you can probably unearth a few treasures if you have the time.

The setting itself is a slice of urban wilderness, with a rocking soundtrack, bras dangling from the ceiling, rooms overflowing with books, and broken typewriters and giant stuffed animals among the clothing and knickknacks. There's also a cafe (with coffee, baked goods, samosas and salads).

Les Antiquités Grand CentralANTIQUES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-935-1467; www.grandcentralinc.ca; 2448 Rue Notre-Dame Ouest; h9:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat; mLionel-Groulx)

The most elegant store on Rue Notre-Dame’s Antique Row is a pleasure to visit for its English and continental furniture, lighting and decorative objects from the 18th and 19th centuries. Get buzzed in to see the Louis XIV chairs, full dining-room suites and chandeliers in Dutch cathedral or French Empire style, with price tags in the thousands.

RootsFASHION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-845-7995; www.canada.roots.com; 1035 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; h10am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat, 10am-6pm Sun; mPeel)

One of Canada's best known home-grown brands, Roots started off as a humble shoemaker in the '70s. Now its range includes Roots for kids, Roots athletics, leather and home accessories. Tastes are accessible and geared to teens and 20-somethings; they are fashionable and at times even innovative.

Place Montréal TrustMALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.placemontrealtrust.com; 1500 Ave McGill College; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, to 5pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; mMcGill)

One of downtown’s most successful malls, with enough rays from the skylights to keep shoppers on their day clock. Major retailers here include La Senza lingerie, Indigo books, Winners and Zara. It has a tremendous water fountain with a spout 30m high, and during the holidays a Christmas tree illuminates the five-story space.

2Cycling Tour
Cycling the Canal de Lachine

Start Canal Locks

End Canal Locks

Length 7km; two hours

The prettiest cycle path in Montréal stretches along the Canal de Lachine. On warm days you'll see sunbathers on the grass, families at picnic tables, and cyclists and in-line skaters gliding along.

Start at the 1Canal locks at the southwestern end of the Old Port. This area has an industrial feel thanks to the abandoned grain silo southeast of the locks.

Pedaling southwest along Rue de la Commune Ouest, you’ll pass under Autoroute 10. Continue along the downtown side of the canal, lined with strips of greenery. The enormous neon sign 2Farine Five Roses crowns a former flour mill.

The path switches sides at the bridge at Rue des Seigneurs, where you come to a 3former silk mill that ran its operations on hydraulic power from the canal. The red-brick factory has been reborn as lofts.

Continue south on Rue Shearer and turn right on Rue Centre. You’ll come to Romanesque 4Église St-Charles on your right. Push your bike over to French-style Église St-Gabriel, taking in the charm of this little-visited neighborhood.

Cycle to Rue Charlevoix, turn right and you’ll soon be on the bike path again. Turn left, and you’ll come to 5H2O Adventures, a kayak-rental outfit. If you’re interested in getting out on the water, this is the place to do it.

Continue on the bike path and turn right at the pedestrian bridge to head to 6Marché Atwater, one of the city’s best markets. Assemble a picnic here to enjoy by the water, followed by an easy pedal back to the port. If you want to explore further, head west. Another 10km along the path will take you to a sculpture garden at the edge of scenic Lac St-Louis – a favorite spot at sunset. To head back, simply follow the canal path back to the Canal Locks.

2Sports & Activities

Montréal CanadiensHOCKEY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-932-2582; www.canadiens.com; 1200 Rue de la Gauchetière Ouest, Bell Centre; tickets $54-277; mBonaventure)

The Canadiens of the National Hockey League have won the Stanley Cup 24 times. Although the team has struggled in recent years, Montréalers have a soft spot for the ‘Habs’ and matches at the Bell Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %877-668-8269, 514-790-2525; www.centrebell.ca; 1909 Ave des Canadiens-de-Montréal) sell out routinely. Scalpers hang around the entrance on game days, and you might snag a half-price ticket after the puck drops.

Bring your binoculars for the rafter seats. The center also hosts big-name concerts, boxing matches, Disney on Ice and visits by the Dalai Lama.

Montréal AlouettesFOOTBALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-871-2255; www.montrealalouettes.com; Ave des Pins Ouest, Molson Stadium; tickets from $29; mMcGill)

The Montréal Alouettes, a star franchise of the Canadian Football League, folded several times before going on to win the league’s Grey Cup trophy in 2002, 2009 and 2010. Rules are a bit different from American football: the field is bigger and there are only three downs. Games are held at McGill University’s Molson Stadium and sometimes at the Stade Olympique.

Purchase advance tickets online or at Molson Stadium. On game day, there are free shuttles from Square-Victoria and McGill metro stations.

My BicycletteBICYCLE RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-317-6306; www.mybicyclette.com; 2985 Rue St-Patrick; bicycle per hour/day from $10/30; h9am-6pm Sun-Fri, to 7pm Sat mid-Apr–Oct; mCharlevoix)

Located along the Canal de Lachine (just across the bridge from the Atwater market), this place rents bikes and other gear during the warmer months. It also sponsors city bike tours, and the repair shop next door is a good place to go if your bike conks out on the Lachine Canal path.

AtriumSKATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-395-0555; www.le1000.com; 1000 Rue de la Gauchetière Ouest; adult/child $7.50/5, skate rentals $7; h11:30am-6pm Mon, to 9pm Tue-Fri, 12:30-9pm Sat & Sun; mBonaventure)

Enjoy year-round indoor ice skating at this excellent glass-domed rink near Gare Centrale. On weekends, kids and their families have a special session from 11am to 12:30pm. Special events change regularly – such as the summertime ‘Bermudas Madness,’ a cheesy good time of skating in shorts and T-shirts while DJs spin Hawaiian and summer-inflected beats.

Call for operating hours as the schedule changes frequently.

Ashtanga Yoga StudioYOGA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-875-9642; www.ashtangamontreal.com; ste 118, 372 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; 1½-hr class $17; mPlace-des-Arts)

Ashtanga, also known as ‘power’ yoga, is an intense, aerobic form of the exercise. This professional center has big, bright studios, very friendly staff and offers 30-plus classes for all age groups and skill levels. Multiclass discount cards available (five classes $75). It's located inside the gallery-filled Belgo building.