We may have let out a delighted squeal or two when we spotted canned water chestnuts in the international aisle of our local supermarket. It was something of a light bulb moment for us: people are enthusiastic about experimenting with new ingredients.
To do our bit for the evolving global palate, we have included a nifty feature called ‘add an exotic’ 
. These optional extras appear in some recipes and are Chinese ingredients that probably feel unfamiliar at the moment. But whether an ‘exotic’ adds an interesting mouthfeel or greater depth of flavour, it can take a Chinese dish from pretty darn good to downright sublime. Our hope is that eventually these ingredients will no longer seem ‘exotic’ as they become a natural part of your cooking repertoire, utilised with the same level of comfort and frequency as pak choi or soy sauce. We are looking forward to the day when fermented beancurd pops up in local supermarkets, but in the meantime all of these ingredients are readily available at good Chinese supermarkets.
GUM CHOI (GOLDEN NEEDLE VEGETABLE) 金针菜
These spindly golden yellow needles are not vegetables at all, but the edible flower petals of the daylily plant. Purchase them in dried form, then simply steep the needles in warm water before cooking so they become plump and juicy. The best way to seal in the delicately fragrant flavour of gum choi is by steaming them alongside ingredients that will happily take on the subtle perfume of the needles, such as chicken thighs. 1
MOOK YEE (WOOD EAR MUSHROOMS) 木耳
What starts out as featherlight dried petals rapidly blossoms into lush and juicy blooms after rehydration in water. Mook yee is usually added to dishes to take advantage of its song (refreshingly crisp) mouthfeel (here). It is also a wonderful vehicle for flavour because sauces and seasonings get caught within its cloud-like pleats. Another common variety, wun yee (cloud ear) is similarly song and pleated. 2
HARM YU (SALTED PRESERVED FISH) 咸鱼
Just a few precious nuggets of this powerhouse ingredient will send you straight to the seaside. Keep an eye out for the muoi houng variety if you can – this means that the fish has a faa (melt-in-the-mouth) mouthfeel (here). The other variety, sut yook harm yu literally translates as ‘hard-fleshed salted fish’. 3
JI JOOK (DRIED BEAN CURD) 支竹
Dried bean curd, also known as ‘tofu skin’, is a by-product of soy milk production: as the milk boils, a robust skin forms on the surface, which is later skimmed off in sheets, dried out, and rehydrated for cooking. Though by itself ji jook lacks a distinctive flavour, its brilliantly wrinkly surface is perfect for mopping up flavoursome sauces. When cooked slowly, as in stews, ji jook becomes very tender to the bite. 4
KONG YU CHU (DRIED SCALLOPS) 江瑶柱
These dark caramel-coloured nuggets are seriously pungent and rich in umami flavour, making them prized in Chinese cooking. Rehydrate them in water before using them sparingly – it only takes a little for the distinctive flavour to shine through. 5
LARP CHEONG (CHINESE SAUSAGE) 腊肠
This is a dried pork sausage with sweet undertones and a waxy texture (‘larp’ refers to the waxiness). Sliced or diced larp cheong is brilliant either steamed or stir-fried to render out the moreish flavour from the fatty bit. 6
JA CHOI (PRESERVED MUSTARD STEM) 榨菜
The funny knobbly appearance of whole ja choi belies a fantastic little ingredient that is perfectly salty, sour and spicy all at once. Ja choi has a song (refreshingly crisp) mouthfeel, and if you love pickled dill, you will be an instant fan of preserved mustard stem too. Chop it up and use it as a condiment for Silken Congee (here), or as a flavoursome addition to soups and sauces, or serve as an accompaniment for steamed meat dishes. You can purchase ja choi in several different forms, but our favourite varieties are sold as foil-wrapped sachets for convenient single servings or whole bulbs in cans. If you are using whole ja choi, rinse the stems before chopping them to remove any grittiness. 7
HARM SHURN CHOI (PICKLED MUSTARD GREENS) 酸菜
Pungent, sharp, and addictively sour, harm shurn choi (literally, salty sour vegetable) are handy to keep in the cupboard for adding the zing factor to soups and stir-fries. They are available in clear plastic packets at Chinese supermarkets, but if you have access to fresh mustard greens you can pickle them yourself, too. Simply pop the greens into a clean and sterilised jar together with some vinegar, salt and sugar, then cover and refrigerate for at least three days before serving. 8
HAR MEY (DRIED SHRIMP) 虾米
Widely used for its ability to impart a unique umami aroma to a variety of dishes, har mey are often rehydrated in water before cooking. We also like to fry them into crispy savoury morsels for sprinkling on top of salads. 9
FOUR YU/NARM YU (WHITE/RED FERMENTED BEANCURD) 腐乳/南乳
Four yu (white fermented beancurd) and narm yu (red fermented beancurd) are dainty beancurd bricks with a texture that is similar to creamy blue cheese. The flavour comes from the liquid in which the tofu is brined, resulting in a salty, slightly tangy and sometimes spicy profile. Narm yu is distinctively different to four yu due to the addition of red yeast rice. Simply mash up the beancurd before adding it to stir-fries and sauces. For the ultimate pared-down supper, sprinkle granulated sugar on top of a single brick then use the tip of your chopsticks to gradually nip away at it as you wolf down a bowl of rice. 10
