the Administration Building at Texas A&M University
As fun as it is to spend a few days in Austin, there are only so many draft beers to drink and museums to meander through. Consider taking a weekend road trip to experience more Central Texas culture. In Texas, that often means barbecue, and those interested in sampling some of the finest the Lone Star State has to offer should make a pilgrimage to the meat mecca of Lockhart. The region’s other college towns offer a fresh take on university life outside a large metro area, and the Highland Lakes are renowned for their placid waters and abundant recreational opportunities.
A series of dams was built along the Colorado River in the late 1930s, resulting in the creation of seven lakes. The three most popular (and usually navigable) are Lakes Travis, LBJ, and Buchanan, 20-60 miles northwest of Austin. These clear, clean bodies of water are a welcome respite from Texas’s hot summers, offering an ideal place for residents and visitors to swim, sail, fish, drink, and water-ski.
When it isn’t depleted due to drought conditions, Lake Travis (www.laketravis.com) is an extremely popular destination for Austinites looking to get away for some R&R on the weekend; so popular, in fact, it’s often difficult to navigate around all the party barges and ski boats that descend on the lake during the summer months. Beware (or seek out) Devil’s Cove, in particular. Sailors, parasailers, windsurfers, fishers, scuba divers, Jet Skiers, and partiers occupy most of the space, and when things are hoppin’ on the lake, it’s quite a spectacle to behold. One of the busiest places is Volente Beach (16107 Wharf Cove, 512/258-5109, www.volentebeach.com, $20-25), offering sandy shores (as opposed to the lake’s typical limestone banks) along with waterslides, a swimming pool, volleyball courts, and a restaurant. Lake Travis boasts 18 parks, eight marinas, more than a dozen restaurants, several nature preserves, and a variety of fishing and sporting goods businesses providing boat and equipment rental. For more information about these services and a comprehensive listing of upcoming lake events, visit the website. Worth noting: During parched summer months, be sure to check websites or call ahead to make sure the shoreline hasn’t receded too far from established marinas and swimming areas due to drought.
Named after President Lyndon B. Johnson, Lake LBJ (www.lake-lbj.net) is a 21-mile-long constant-level body of water, making it ideal for sailing, boating, and other water sports. Aside from Lake Travis, this is one of the most developed of the Highland Lakes, with hundreds of homes on the shoreline, most of them occupied by retirees and weekenders. If you’re looking to rent a condo or lakefront home in a quiet, relaxing environment for a few days, this is the place to be. Anglers flock to Lake LBJ for the abundant largemouth and Guadalupe bass, and the lake’s white crappie population is considered the best of any of the Highland Lakes chain. Those angling for a tasty bite to eat have plenty of options at the cafés and Tex-Mex restaurants in the small nearby communities of Horseshoe Bay, Kingsland, Granite Shoals, and Sunrise Beach.
This is a big ol’ lake in a sparsely populated area. Lake Buchanan (www.lake-buchanan.com) isn’t the hot spot destination for partiers or retirees, and that’s its appeal. Tree-lined shores and vast open stretches of blue (sometimes brownish) water are welcome scenery for the boaters and anglers who dot the lake’s surface. Lake Buchanan is well known for its striper (striped bass) fishing, and the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department helps keep this reputation thriving by stocking the lake with the species. Fishing guides are available to take visitors to the best spots. Much like the other nearby lakes, accommodations on Lake Buchanan range from campgrounds and RV parks to rental homes and even houseboats.
Those in the area November-March should consider taking advantage of a unique opportunity to commune with nature. The Vanishing Texas River Cruise (800/474-8374, www.vtrc.com, $17-25) offers a rare chance to see one of the largest colonies of American bald eagles. The Texas Eagle II, a 70-foot, 120-passenger vessel, has two observation decks and covered viewing areas for catching a glimpse of the magnificent bald eagle in its natural habitat.
The upper Highland Lakes region (northwest of Lake Travis) is surrounded by small communities, most with populations of 5,000 or fewer, so there’s a wide range of accommodations to choose from. Many are cheap chains on state highways, others are fancy resorts on the lakeshore, and others are quaint bed-and-breakfasts in historic downtowns. The three “big” cities in the region are Burnet (pronounced BUR-nit), Marble Falls, and Llano. A comprehensive list of accommodations in these communities and outlying areas is available at www.highlandlakes.com (the cabin listings are especially helpful). Most visitors to Lake Travis stay in Austin or at one of the nearby campgrounds.
Camping options in the upper Highland Lakes region are plentiful, but a few parks stand out among the rest. Lake Buchanan’s immense size and absence of development make it a good place to enjoy remote, natural conditions (or a comfortable lodge, if you choose). One of the best places to pitch a tent is Black Rock Park (on Hwy. 261 north of Hwy. 29, 512/793-3138, www.lcra.org, $5 entry fee, call for current campsite and cabin fees). The 10-acre park offers 25 tent sites, 15 RV sites, and six cabins with heat and air conditioning. One of the park’s biggest draws is its sandy beach, and the ample shoreline is also popular with bank fishers.
Less rustic is the nearby Canyon of the Eagles (16942 Ranch Rd. 2341, 800/977-0081, www.canyonoftheeagles.com, average cottage/room $159, average campsite $14), a 940-acre resort containing a cozy lodge and campsites. Canyon of the Eagles offers 64 cottage and lodge rooms designed to blend in with the natural beauty of the surrounding Hill Country. Each cabin features wooden rocking chairs on the front porch, some with spectacular views of Lake Buchanan. Camping is also available, with 25 spacious, shaded sites including a paved pad and picnic table. Some of the sites have a limited view of the lake, and all have access to the property’s amenities. Those seeking primitive camping have two options—Chimney Slough in a peaceful cove on the lake with 23 tent sites and potable water and Tanner Point, containing 10 sites with no water. Canyon of the Eagles also features a restaurant, swimming pool, and recreation room.
Another popular option is Inks Lake State Park (3630 Park Rd. 4 W., 512/793-2223, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, $5 ages 13 and older). Camping, backpacking, hiking, swimming, and fishing are popular activities, along with the park’s guided nature walks and canoe tours. Small cabins and primitive campsites are available, and the park even includes a nine-hole golf course, store (offering boats and bikes for rent), and Wi-Fi access.
The best way to find out about up-to-date lodging and event information is through the various chambers of commerce scattered throughout the Highland Lakes region. They’ll also provide plenty of handy maps and brochures with helpful info about places to go and things to do in the area.
For Lake Travis area information, visit www.laketravis.com or contact the Lake Travis Chamber of Commerce (1415 RR 620 S., Ste. 202, 512/263-5833, www.laketravischamber.com). For the upper Highland Lakes, contact the Burnet Chamber of Commerce (229 S. Pierce, 512/756-4297, www.burnetchamber.org), the Marble Falls/Lake LBJ Chamber of Commerce (100 Avenue G, 830/693-4449, www.marblefalls.org), and the Llano Chamber of Commerce (100 Train Station Dr., 325/247-5354, www.llanochamber.org).
From Austin, take Highway 71 west to begin your Highland Lakes journey. The first lake (or last, from a downriver standpoint) is Lake Travis, accessible from Highway 71 or Highway 620 (which goes north from 71 in the town of Bee Cave). It’s about a 30-minute drive from Austin. Continuing westward on Highway 71, travelers can access Lakes LBJ and Buchanan by heading north on U.S. Highway 281 toward breathtaking Marble Falls (Lake LBJ) and Burnet (Buchanan). It takes an hour to reach Lake LBJ from Austin, and closer to two hours for Lake Buchanan.
Located 26 miles south of Austin, San Marcos (population 60,684), home of Texas State University, can rightfully claim the title of I-35’s “college town” now that the metropolis to the north has seemingly outgrown the term. Appropriately enough, it’s well known for the laid-back recreational activity of tubing, where young adults lounge around half-dressed drinking beer, all while floating on an inner tube down a refreshingly cold river. Despite the appeal of this pursuit, it doesn’t draw nearly as many visitors as the outlet malls on the outskirts of town.
Compared to New Braunfels, San Marcos’s tubing scene is pretty tame. Despite the proximity of Texas State, tubing in San Marcos is marketed as a family activity, resulting in fewer booze cruises and less questionable activity than in New Braunfels. Regardless, the appeal remains the same—escaping from the Texas heat by floating in a refreshingly cold river (approximately 71°F) through picturesque countryside with a beverage in hand. For the most part, the pace is slow and relaxing; however, there are occasional swiftly flowing areas, and a river chute on a dam creates a fun rapids effect. The entire trip takes about 1.5 hours. The best place to begin your trek (equipment rental, transportation upriver, etc.) is San Marcos Lions Club Tube Rental (at City Park off Charles Austin Dr., 512/396-5466, www.tubesanmarcos.com, open daily in the summer, weekends in May, tube rental $10, $20 tube deposit required).
The San Marcos springs release millions of gallons of water daily and are the focal point of Texas State University’s Meadows Center for Water and the Environment (921 Aquarena Springs Dr., 512/245-7570, www.meadowscenter.txstate.edu, daily 10:30am-3:30pm, $9.75 adults, $8 seniors, $6 children ages 3-12). For much of the 1900s, the area was a resort and entertainment park known as Aquarena Springs, featuring amusement-park-style rides, water shows with mermaids, and Ralph, a pig that performed amazing aquatic tricks. Although Ralph is no longer a featured attraction, glass-bottom boats remain as a fun option for visitors to explore the depths of the site’s Spring Lake. A knowledgeable and laid-back guide (usually a TSU student) pilots the small boat around the former pool while visitors peer into an opening with a large slab of glass—the crystal-clear view is pretty spectacular, especially when fish dart by or a percolating spring is visibly bubbling. TSU purchased the aging theme park in 1994 and transformed it into a nonprofit nature center dedicated to conserving natural resources and educating the public about the role water plays in daily life. After taking a boat ride, visitors are encouraged to explore the site’s wetland boardwalk and discovery center with hands-on exhibits and archaeology displays featuring 12,000-year-old artifacts.
Take a break from shopping to visit Wonder World (1000 Prospect St., 512/392-3760, www.wonderworldpark.com, Memorial Day-Labor Day daily 8am-8pm, Sept.-May Mon.-Fri. 9am-5pm, Sat.-Sun. 9am-6pm, $24.95 adults, $17.95 seniors and children ages 6-12). The main attraction is an enormous cave formed by a prehistoric earthquake along the Balcones fault line, resulting in distinctive geographic formations not found in typical erosion-based caves. At the end of the tour, visitors ascend the 146-foot-tall Tejas Tower via elevator, offering a spectacular bird’s-eye view of the region’s geographic features. Other park attractions include a train ride through a wildlife park, a petting zoo, and a wacky antigravity house.
San Marcos’s outlet stores rank among the top tourist destinations in Texas. Depending on your perspective, this is either fascinating or depressing. Regardless, shopping for bargains is a phenomenon that’s unlikely to wane in popularity anytime soon, so people will continue to flock to San Marcos to spend hours or even days sifting through racks of clothes, shoes, accessories, and housewares in search of the ultimate deal at one of the nearly 250 stores in two main centers. The biggest is Premium Outlets (3939 I-35 S., 512/396-2200, www.premiumoutlets.com, Mon.-Sat. 10am-9pm, Sun. 10am-7pm). Unironically designed after a classic shopping plaza in Venice, Italy, Premium Outlets offers more than 130 luxury and brand-name shops such as Last Call by Neiman Marcus, Gucci, Lacoste, Salvatore Ferragamo, Polo Ralph Lauren, Banana Republic Factory Store, Nike Factory Store, J. Crew, and Saks Fifth Avenue Off 5th Outlet. The other main attraction, just south of Premium Outlets, is Tanger Outlet Center (4015 I-35 S., 512/396-7446, www.tangeroutlet.com, Mon.-Sat. 9am-9pm, Sun. 10am-7pm). Tanger contains more than 100 stores, including Calvin Klein, Charlotte Russe, Cavender’s Boot City, Express Factory Outlet, Hot Topic, Samsonite Company Stores, and Wilsons Leather Outlet.
One of San Marcos’s most popular restaurants is the consistently satisfying SHerbert’s Grocery & Taco Hut (419 Riverside Dr., 866/721-3530, www.herbertstacohut.com, Mon.-Thurs. 10am-9pm, Fri. 10am-10pm, Sat. 7am-9pm, $8-16). Originally a takeout taco stand, Herbert’s has evolved over the decades into a first-rate Tex-Mex establishment and salsa enterprise, drawing students and locals with its flavorful tacos and extremely prompt service (food often arrives in mere minutes). One of the biggest draws is the restaurant’s exquisite flour tortilla—these homemade gems are perfection, with just the right texture and buttery taste to practically comprise an entire meal. The most popular dish is Herbert’s Special, a combo plate featuring a hearty beef taco, tangy cheese enchilada, and crunchy bean chalupa.
Another well-known Mexican food joint is Mamacita’s Restaurant (1400 Aquarena Springs Dr., 512/353-0070, www.mamacitas.com, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-9:30pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-10pm, $8-15). This family-friendly spot is a favorite for quick lunches and group outings, and it’s an ideal place to take newcomers, since the spices are relatively mild. Popular dishes include the sour cream chicken enchiladas and the beef fajitas.
A favorite among locals and students is the remarkable Root Cellar Cafe (215 N. LBJ Dr., 512/392-5158, www.rootcellarcafe.com, Tues.-Sun. 7am-4pm and 5:30pm-10pm, $9-18). Breakfast and lunch are the most popular meals here, and for good reason—the bacon and waffles are consistently flavorful, and the burgers and sandwiches (the tuna, in particular) are way above average. Lunch, dinner, and happy hour are enhanced by Root Cellar’s made-in-house brewed beer selection, with the pale ale and vanilla cream ale among the favorites.
There’s something to be said for a college-town restaurant that’s endured for more than 30 years. Grin’s (802 N. LBJ Dr., 512/392-4746, www.grinsrestaurant.com, daily 11am-10pm, $10-22) is a classic all-American family restaurant that’s been putting smiles on people’s faces for decades with its tasty burgers, steaks, and sandwiches. The chicken-fried chicken is another signature dish. Just up the hill from Texas State University, Grin’s is popular with students and families, and the huge tree-shaded deck is an ideal place to enjoy a meal.
If you’re looking for an affordable hotel to go with your bargain purchases at the outlet mall, one of the better deals in San Marcos is Rodeway Inn (1635 Aquarena Springs Dr., 512/353-8011, www.rodewayinn.com, $69 d). It’s quite close to Texas State University—within walking distance of Bobcat Stadium, in fact—and offers a free continental breakfast, Internet access, and an outdoor pool.
If proximity to the outlet malls is a top consideration, it doesn’t get much closer than Baymont Inn & Suites (4210 I-35, 512/392-6800, www.baymontinns.com, $108 d). The hotel features an indoor pool (heated Nov.-Mar.), a fitness center, free Internet access, and a free continental breakfast.
A bit pricier yet slightly more upscale is Hampton Inn & Suites (106 I-35, 512/754-7707, www.stonebridgehotels.com, $144 d), offering free Internet access, a free continental breakfast, an outdoor pool, and an exercise room.
Those looking to get away from the hustle and bustle can stay at Crystal River Inn (326 W. Hopkins St., 888/396-3739, www.crystalriverinn.com, $115-165), a bed-and-breakfast and garden complex with 13 rooms in three buildings. The quaint structures surround a garden with roses, fountains, and stately pecan trees, and Crystal River’s gourmet breakfasts offer a wonderful way to fuel up for a day of shopping without dropping.
San Marcos has two visitors centers offering plenty of helpful brochures and maps about attractions in the area. For general information, contact the Tourist Information Center (617 I-35 N., 512/393-5930, www.sanmarcostexas.com, Mon.-Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. 10am-4pm). Another reliable source is the San Marcos Convention and Visitor Bureau (202 N. C.M. Allen Pkwy., 512/393-5900, www.toursanmarcos.com, Mon.-Fri. 8:30am-5pm).
San Marcos is a quick drive south on I-35 from Austin. It takes about 40 minutes when traffic is moderate; visitors should take the exit for FM 12 or just look for the signs related to Texas State University.
Best known as home to Texas A&M University, the Bryan-College Station area is truly representative of the A (agriculture) in A&M. Ranches, farms, and rolling prairies surround the two cities, which serve as agricultural supply and market centers for the small surrounding communities. Despite rumors to the contrary emanating from Austin, College Station is actually a cultural asset to the area by drawing educated instructors and students and regularly scheduling impressive exhibits and speakers.
In fact, College Station’s influence—particularly from Texas A&M University—has had a major impact on the region’s development. Texas A&M opened in 1871 as Texas Agricultural and Mechanical College, a male-only military institution with Corps of Cadets participation required. During the early 1900s, Texas A&M kept a strong military association, but in 1963 the Texas legislature approved a bill changing the university’s name to Texas A&M, ushering in a new era. Women were officially admitted, and the Corps of Cadets became a voluntary organization. An enrollment surge followed, with a mighty increase from nearly 8,000 students to more than 25,000 in 1976.
The university has positively influenced the region’s history and culture by bringing in an impressive range of faculty, students, and ideas from across the globe. Texas A&M has created opportunities that otherwise wouldn’t exist in this part of the state, including professional connections, diversity, and a lot of money, all of which have improved the lives of people in Bryan-College Station for the better.
Home to more than 58,000 students, Texas A&M University is one of the country’s premier schools for agriculture-related studies (veterinary medicine, geosciences, and landscape architecture in particular). Aggieland is truly a phenomenon—the immense school pride manifests itself in ubiquitous “Gig ’em Aggies” signs and stickers, the omnipresent maroon hue, and “yell practice,” a pep rally event in which the name alone prompts rival students at the University of Texas to guffaw. Aggies’ attempts to insult UT (referring to the school as “t.u.” and calling them “tea sippers”) don’t tend to rile the Longhorns, but the Aggies’ nostalgic sense of being true to their school is endearing if not commendable.
the Administration Building at Texas A&M University
Texas A&M has a proud history dating back to 1871 as the all-male Agricultural and Mechanical College of Texas. In the 1960s, it opened its doors to women and changed its name to Texas A&M. Until that time, all students were required to undergo military cadet training, and although it became optional afterward, the school still has the largest uniformed cadet corps in the nation (outside the service academies). More than 2,000 male and female students serve as military cadets each academic year, and their Fightin’ Texas Aggies Band, which performs mesmerizing precision-filled routines at football halftime shows, is the world’s largest military marching band.
Those interested in touring the campus should contact the Appelt Aggieland Visitor Center (on the 1st floor of Rudder Tower, 979/845-5851, www.tamu.edu/visitors/visitor-center, Mon.-Fri. 8am-5pm).
While on the campus, visitors can experience the Sam Houston Sanders Corps of Cadets Center (979/862-2862, www.corps.tamu.edu/corpscenter/, Mon.-Fri. 8am-5pm), showcasing the proud history of the university’s iconic cadets. Dozens of displays feature artifacts and pictures documenting the cadets’ rituals such as Fish (freshmen) Drill Team, yell practice, 12th Man, and the Aggie Band.
One of College Station’s biggest claims to fame is former U.S. president George Herbert Walker Bush. Although he didn’t even attend Texas A&M, Bush was so impressed with the school after accepting an invitation to deliver a commencement address, he agreed to have his presidential archives preserved and displayed there. It’s well worth making the trip to Aggieland to experience the George Bush Presidential Library and Museum (1000 George Bush Dr. W., 979/691-4000, www.bush41.org, Mon.-Sat. 9:30am-5pm, Sun. noon-5pm, $9 adults, $7 seniors, $3 students ages 6-17).
the George Bush Presidential Library and Museum on the Texas A&M campus
The museum’s main exhibits demonstrate the life and times of Bush Sr. via interactive touch-screen and video displays (check out the clip of Bush’s first steps in 1925). Popular displays include a section of the Berlin Wall, a Gulf War exhibit, an Avenger similar to the plane Bush flew in World War II, and a replica of the White House situation room. One of the most memorable portions of the museum is the Oval Office exhibit that allows visitors to sit in the “seat of power” and have their photo taken behind the president’s desk.
Another popular draw is the White House in Miniature, offering visitors a peek into the residence George Bush once called home. Now that Bush and his wife, Barbara, have an apartment on the museum grounds, they make occasional “surprise appearances,” shaking hands, signing autographs, and interacting with visitors.
In addition to these exhibits, the site also contains archives with more than 38 million pages of personal papers and official documents from the vice presidency and presidency, an extensive collection of audiovisual and photographic records, and approximately 60,000 historical objects including personal items and gifts from the American people. Of particular interest is the exhibit dedicated to gifts given by international dignitaries and supporters, ranging from small painted rocks to a gilded replica fortress.
Regional heritage is on display at Bryan’s small yet interesting Brazos Valley Museum of Natural History (3232 Briarcrest Dr., 979/776-2195, www.brazosvalleymuseum.org, Tues.-Sat. 10am-5pm, $5 adults, $4 seniors and children ages 4-17). The museum has plugged steadily along since 1961, achieving its mission to increase the public’s awareness of the region’s cultural and natural heritage. The museum features permanent displays with artifacts, maps, and photos, highlighting the events and people that shaped the area’s history along with regular traveling exhibits.
You can’t go to College Station without stopping by the Dixie Chicken (307 University Dr., 979/846-2322, www.dixiechicken.com, daily 10am-2am, $7-14). Though it’s better known as a bar than a restaurant, “the Chicken” can squawk about its tasty food, too. It’s mainly pub grub (burgers, sandwiches, fried stuff), but the unique atmosphere certainly enhances the dining experience. Mounted animal heads loom over deeply carved tables and walls, and the place reverberates with the sounds of college students—clinking beer bottles, whoops and laughs, and classic country music. Order a Shiner and soak up the scene. Sister property Chicken Oil Co. (3600 S. College Ave., 979/846-3306, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-10pm, $6-10) serves up the best burger in Aggieland. Despite the name (a reference to a former service station), this restaurant offers top-notch beef in a down-home atmosphere.
Slightly more refined is Blue Baker (201 Dominik Dr., 979/696-5055, www.bluebaker.com, daily 7am-10pm, $6-14), which prides itself on made-from-scratch breads, pastries, and pizza dough. Patrons can watch the bread making and baking process while waiting for a signature brick-oven pizza, mouthwatering sandwich, or homesick-inspiring chocolate chip cookie.
Another classic College Station hangout is Layne’s (106 Walton Dr., 979/696-7633, www.layneschickenfingers.com, Mon.-Tues. 10:30am-10pm, Wed.-Sun. 10:30am-11:30pm, $4-9), which has carved out a distinctive niche in the local culinary scene. Layne’s serves one type of food only: chicken. Chicken fingers, in particular. It’s also known for its special dipping sauce (a peppery recipe that’s sworn to secrecy) and funky, some might even say dumpy, atmosphere. Those feeling adventurous can order one of Layne’s only other menu items—a chicken finger sandwich.
For those who still have yet to sample the Southern delicacy known as chicken-fried steak, head straight to Bryan’s Longhorn Tavern Steak House (1900 Hwy. 21 E., 979/778-3900, Mon.-Thurs. 11am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-9:30pm, $9-26). People come from miles around to satisfy their craving for the Longhorn’s famous CFS, but there are other worthy items on the menu—sirloins, rib eyes, T-bones, and New York strips.
For a memorably fun and tasty dining experience, drop by Freebird’s World Burrito (original location at 319 University Dr., four other locations, 979/846-9298, www.freebirds.com, daily 10:30am-10pm, $5-10). Enormous burritos are the specialty here, and diners get to choose items—beef, chicken, rice, cheese, veggies, salsa, etc.—as they proceed down the counter. The natural ingredients come with a healthy side of good-natured attitude from the employees, and patrons are encouraged to create and leave behind the sculptures they make from the leftover tinfoil overwrap.
For those seeking a modern and tasty twist to the typical taco experience, head directly to Mad Taco (404 Jane St., 979/704-6266, www.madtaco.com, daily 11am-10pm, $4-12). Start things off with a cerveza or Mad ’Rita (the beet option is a nice change of pace), then settle in for the main attraction: mad tacos. Although all the protein options are commendable (beef, pork, chicken, seafood, mushrooms), be sure to try the jerk chicken—the aioli seasoning and chile oil offer an especially distinctive flavor combo.
Another popular nearby Mexican restaurant is Fuego Tortilla Grill (108 Poplar St., 979/703-1804, www.fuegotortillagrill.com, $6-12). Fuego serves up inventive fare with comfortable ingredients, including a hearty steak taco (The King), a chicken and waffle combo, and an amazing salsa. An added bonus: Fuego is open 24 hours (except Mon.).
Down the road in Bryan is local legend Pepe’s Mexican Cafe (3312 S. College Ave., 979/779-2457, www.pepesmexicancafe.com, Sun.-Thurs. 6am-11pm, Fri.-Sat. 6am-midnight, $7-15). Considered the original fast-food restaurant in Bryan, Pepe’s still offers freshly made tacos, burritos, enchiladas, and other Tex-Mex specialties.
One of the more affordable A&M-area options is the College Station Super 8 (301 Texas Ave., 979/846-8800, www.super8.com, $80 d). Three blocks away from campus, the hotel offers free Internet connections and a complimentary breakfast. Another noteworthy spot is the nice, new Courtyard College Station (3939 Hwy. 6 S., 979/695-8111, www.marriott.com, $129 d), offering a free healthy breakfast and complimentary Wi-Fi access. The Comfort Inn & Suites (2313 Texas Ave. S., 979/680-8000, www.choicehotels.com, $139 d) features free Internet access, a free hot breakfast, an exercise room, and a seasonal outdoor pool.
Just down the road in downtown Bryan is the beautifully restored LaSalle Hotel (120 S. Main St., 979/822-2000, www.lasalle-hotel.com, $109-149 d), a 1928 boutique hotel that’s listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The LaSalle exudes vintage charm with a seamless integration of modern amenities, including free Internet access in each room. A complimentary breakfast is also served. Those willing to splurge on a suite ($139) receive the extra benefits of a refrigerator, microwave, Jacuzzi tub, separate living room with pullout sleeper sofa, and three TVs (in the bedroom, living area, and bathroom).
To learn more about Texas A&M or to take a campus tour, contact the Appelt Aggieland Visitor Center (on the 1st floor of Rudder Tower, 979/845-5851, www.tamu.edu/visitors/visitor-center, Mon.-Fri. 8am-5pm). For information about the Bryan-College Station area, including maps and brochures related to attractions and lodging, stop by the Bryan-College Station Convention & Visitors Bureau (715 University Dr. E., 979/260-9898, www.visitaggieland.com, Mon.-Fri. 8am-5pm, Sat. 10am-2pm).
Bryan-College Station is about an hour and a half east of Austin. Take U.S. Highway 290 east to Highway 21 (about 25 minutes), then head east on Highway 21 until you reach the outskirts of Bryan-College Station. Signs will continue to direct visitors into Bryan or toward Highway 47 to reach College Station.
Lockhart (population 13,446) is the true mecca for barbecue lovers, with four legendary restaurants offering enough lore and smoked meat to satisfy connoisseurs of this uniquely Texas food style. In fact, barbecue is Lockhart’s biggest draw, making it an ideal place for a quick 30-minute road trip from Austin. Visitors can walk off their brisket-and-sausage-induced coma by strolling around the small historic downtown area, punctuated by the majestic and magnificently restored Caldwell County Courthouse.
the Caldwell County Courthouse
For many barbecue aficionados, this is as good as it gets in Texas, or anywhere else for that matter. Kreuz Market (619 N. Colorado St., 512/398-2361, www.kreuzmarket.com, daily 10:30am-8pm, $12-34) is legendary, and among the four famous restaurants in town, it tends to receive the most accolades for “best barbecue” from state and national publications. This is hard-core stuff, so you won’t find the typical barbecue combo plates offered at most Texas restaurants. First, there’s no sauce, and for good reason—why would you want to taint the perfectly smoked high-quality meat by dousing it in something to mask the taste? Second, orders are placed at the counter, where succulent sausage, thick pork chops, and hearty ribs and brisket are served by the pound on butcher paper. Third, there aren’t any utensils. Well, except for the plastic knife that’s used for slicing off chunks of meat, cheese, avocado, tomato, and jalapeño. These side items, along with crackers, bread, pickles, and onions, stem from Kreuz’s origins as a meat market and grocery store, where patrons—mostly ranchers and farmhands—would buy vegetables, bread, and meat and often eat their purchases on-site, using a pocketknife to carve the items. The food at Kreuz remains as expertly prepared as it’s been since 1900 (even though its new digs slightly resemble an industrial warehouse), and it’s worth a visit for the incredible pork chops alone. Wash it all down with a Shiner Bock or Dr Pepper. You’ll be singing the praises of this truly Texas experience for years to come.
Vying for the crown of best barbecue in Texas (and therefore the world) is Black’s Barbecue (215 N. Main St., 888/632-8225, www.blacksbbq.com, Sun.-Thurs. 10am-8pm, Fri.-Sat. 10am-8:30pm, $10-28). This is the place to go for time-honored, perfectly smoked, mouthwatering barbecue. There are no pretensions here—no reason to be intimidated by lack of barbecue knowledge or inability to calculate what a half pound of meat translates to on the plate. And there are plates at Black’s (as opposed to butcher paper on a tray). There are sides, sauce, and silverware, too. Of course the meat is the main draw, as it’s been since 1932. Go directly for the pork—ribs, chops, and loins. They’re all fantastic, with the hardwood smoke perfectly accentuating the succulent flavor accented by the basic yet effective salt-and-pepper dry rub. Equal in quality is the sausage, available in a flavorful beef-and-pork combo, garlic blend, and spicy jalapeño version. Most barbecue joints aren’t known for their ambience, and Black’s is no exception, but the crookedly hung black-and-white photos of bygone high school football teams and the longhorns and antlers looming above them lend a touch of rural charm. The sign outside Black’s boasts 8 Days a Week, a reference to the seemingly endless amount of time restaurant staffers prepare and dole out their delicious fare (and the fact it’s open every day except Thanksgiving and Christmas). Since this is some of the best barbecue available anywhere, it’s well worth the extra effort.
The business hasn’t been around as long as the others (it opened in 1999), but the building itself is legendary at Smitty’s Market (208 S. Commerce St., 512/398-9344, www.smittysmarket.com, Mon.-Fri. 7am-6pm, Sat. 7am-6:30pm, Sun. 9am-6:30pm, $11-29). Smoked meat has been a specialty at this rustic locale for more than a century, and people have been continually flocking here to partake of the juicy goodness. Visitors get an up close view (and feel) of the decades-old fire-and-smoke-spewing brick pits adjacent to the long line that snakes out the back door most weekends. By the time you sit down to eat, you won’t even notice your seared skin and smoke-drenched clothes. The brisket and sausage are specialties, and the tender and delicious pork ribs are available on weekends only. Smitty’s also offers traditional sides such as potato salad, coleslaw, and pinto beans.
In a town filled with world-famous barbecue restaurants, the locals’ favorite is Chisholm Trail BBQ (1323 S. Colorado St., 512/398-6027, daily 8am-8pm, $9-19). A relative newcomer compared to the old stalwarts in town, Chisholm Trail nevertheless holds its own, perhaps because it doesn’t have the New York Times and Food Network hawking its food across the country. They may want to reconsider, since Chisholm Trail offers quality barbecue that would be a stand-alone knockout in most other Texas towns. The seasoned sausage is a specialty, and locals line up for the ribs, chicken, and turkey. Chisholm Trail has a large cafeteria-style bar with a plethora of side items, including fried okra, potato salad, coleslaw, pinto beans, green beans, squash, and various salads. What sets it apart from the other barbecue restaurants in town is its expanded menu, offering chicken-fried steak, catfish, and other Southern specialties.
Lockhart doesn’t have an official visitors bureau, but you can direct general questions about area attractions and lodging to the city hall at 512/398-3461 or visit the city website at www.lockhart-tx.org. Another helpful resource is the Lockhart Chamber of Commerce (631 S. Colorado St., 512/398-2818, www.lockhartchamber.com).
From Austin, it takes about 40 minutes to reach Lockhart via U.S. Highway183 South. There’s an optional tollway along U.S. Highway 183, but it will only save about 5 minutes of time (and cost about $4). Once you reach Lockhart, you’ll see signs everywhere directing you to the “best” barbecue in Lockhart. They can each make a rightful claim.
In the late 19th century, cotton was king in Waco (population 132,356), weaving its way through the vivid heritage of this colorful town. The dark, rich soil of the Blackland Prairie proved ideal for growing the crop, and like the oil that would be discovered later, it attracted a rush of immigrants eager to make a living.
Before the advent of river steamers and railroads, cotton buyers employed teamsters to make the overland trek to markets in the east. Eventually, trails and railroads converged in cotton boomtowns like Waco, which became known as “The Crossroads of Texas.” Baylor University, the world’s largest Baptist university, moved to Waco in the late 1800s, and by the early 20th century, the city’s manufacturing base increased from agricultural business to include standard service industries, two domino factories, and several soft drink companies (Dr Pepper became nationally famous, while the cream-soda-ish Big Red remained a big sensation primarily in the South).
Waco attained a “Wacko” reputation in 1993 when eccentric Branch Davidian sect/cult leader David Koresh defended his Mount Carmel compound against the U.S. government in a highly publicized attack that drew unwanted worldwide media coverage.
Magnolia Market (601 Webster Ave., 254-235-611, magnoliamarket.com, Mon.-Sat. 9am-6pm) is Waco’s top travel destination. By far. Local couple Chip and Joanna Gaines’s Fixer Upper show on HGTV is a national phenomenon, based on the comfy styles they developed over the past decade at their Waco home decor shop. Their biggest rehab project ever—a 2015 expansion and upgrade at the iconic silos in downtown Waco—launched their TV show and location into the stratosphere, resulting in nearly 25,000 visitors a week. Their headquarters, known as the Magnolia Silos, include a crazy-popular retail store in a former grain barn, a garden area, amazing bakery, reputable food truck court with local vendors, and a huge lawn for family activities and games. Arrive early (or during the week) if you want to avoid the entry lines and the crowds that pack the retail store. Many people depart the site with bags full of goodies, although it’s also common to see visitors and locals strolling the grounds snapping photos of every charming item they see. Even if you aren’t a fan of the enterprise, Magnolia Market is a comfy place to stroll around with a food-cart coffee while watching frolicking families play whiffle ball and snap selfies in front of the silos. The silos date to circa 1912, when the Brazos Valley Cotton Oil Co. used cotton seeds to extract oil. They aren’t currently being used, but they serve as a beacon and photo op, with future plans to renovate them for use as an undisclosed Magnolia-related attraction.
Magnolia Market in downtown Waco
The Waco Mammoth Site (6220 Steinbeck Bend Rd., 254/750-7946, www.nps.gov/waco, daily 9am-5pm, $5 adults, $4 seniors and students) is a fascinating slice of prehistory in the exact location where it occurred. This compelling site, which opened to the public in 2009, can be traced back nearly 70,000 years, although its modern story began 20 years ago when a bone protruding from a dry creek bank was reported to scientists at nearby Baylor University. Subsequent investigations and digs revealed dozens of mammoths. It’s worth waiting for the guided tour, since the knowledgeable staff provides insight and context about this distinctive element of Waco’s past. For example, the guides explain the history of this type of mammoth (Columbian, not woolly), and point out the creature’s gargantuan size by using the height of nearby lightposts for comparison. In an effort to retain the integrity of the dig site, a special protective building was constructed around the bones. A walkway offers an amazing overhead view of the site, where visitors can snap photos while being surrounded by brightly painted images of the mammoths in their heyday. The circa one-hour tour is absolutely worthwhile for adults and families, although parents with toddlers should consider the less-talky self-guided option.
Discover what makes the world’s oldest major soft drink pop at the Dr Pepper Museum (300 S. 5th St., 254/757-1025, www.drpeppermuseum.com, Mon.-Sat. 10am-4:15pm, Sun. noon-4:15pm, $10 adults, $8 seniors, $6 students). This fun museum takes visitors through the history of Waco-born Dr Pepper and Texas’s soft drink industry. Dr Pepper (the period after Dr was dropped in the 1950s) originated in 1885 at a Waco drugstore, where a pharmacist concocted the recipe while mixing up different flavoring syrups for curious customers.
The museum is housed in the Artesian Manufacturing and Bottling Company building, where the product was made in the early 1900s. The mixture of flavors in Dr Pepper remains a closely guarded secret, but visitors can learn about some of the theories and the history of the beverage from the museum’s educational and interactive exhibits. The extensive collection of soft drink cans and bottles exhibiting design and logo styles through the ages is particularly fascinating. In 2016, a new museum wing opened in an adjacent warehouse. The historic building is now home to a “cooking with Dr Pepper” laboratory, a mock bottling line, and a historical transportation display about soda distribution. Appropriately, the tour ends with an authentic soda fountain, serving Dr Pepper in its original incarnation, with pure cane sugar instead of corn syrup.
Baylor University’s most noteworthy public entity is the impressive Mayborn Museum Complex (1300 S. University Parks Dr., 254/710-1110, www.maybornmuseum.com, Mon-Sat. 10am-5pm, Thurs. until 8pm, Sun. 1pm-5pm, $8 adults, $7 seniors, $6 children ages 2-12). In fact, this enormous (142,000-square-foot) complex is arguably the finest natural history museum in Central Texas. From the moment you enter the giant rotunda, it’s evident the Mayborn takes its mission seriously. Be sure to spend extra time investigating the strange and surreal objects in the museum’s first room, dedicated to curiosities collected by the previous natural history museum’s director—from bizarre stuffed rodents to a colossal skull from a 3,000-pound whale.
the Mayborn Museum Complex
Waco’s crossroads legacy is highlighted through the museum’s collection of natural, cultural, and historical exhibits showcasing the convergence of landscapes and people in Central Texas. Eye-catching features include a Native American grass house and a replica of the Waco Mammoth Site beneath a Plexiglas see-through floor. Incidentally, kids can spend hours in the museum’s hands-on discovery center, where they’ll experiment with water structures, musical instruments, and wind- and electrical-powered energy experiments. Be sure to set aside some time for the outdoor historic village behind the main building, where you can enter a mercantile store, ring a school bell, and play a church piano.
Similar in approach to the highly respected Fort Worth Zoo is Waco’s Cameron Park Zoo (1701 N. 4th St., 254/750-8400, www.cameronparkzoo.com, Mon.-Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. 11am-5pm, $10 adults, $9 seniors, $7 children ages 4-12). Dirt paths and wooden bridges connect habitats featuring animals from Africa, Asia, and the Americas in re-created environments simulating their homelands (they apparently have no idea they’re in Waco). The herpetarium is particularly impressive, with lush plants and waterfalls surrounding dozens of species of reptiles and amphibians. Drop by to visit the buffalo, jaguar, and aquarium fish, or check in on the lions, lemurs, and gibbon island. The zoo represents its Texas roots with the Brazos River Country exhibit, where visitors follow the footsteps of early Spanish explorers who searched for the seven cities of gold through the seven habitats of plant and animal life along the mighty river.
Once the largest suspension bridge in the country, the city’s most famous landmark was built in 1870 as a 475-foot-long toll bridge spanning the Brazos River along the Chisholm Trail. Traffic crossed under the bridge’s lofty towers for a century, but it has been pedestrian-only since 1971. The mighty steel cables and girders are a testament to bygone days, and the large bronze longhorn statues at the entrance to the bridge offer a reminder of its historical origins. The bridge is considered an icon of Waco history and serves as the backdrop and centerpiece for festivals and events throughout the year. Access the bridge via University Parks Drive between Franklin and Washington Avenues. Worth noting: The dozens of empty plastic bags tied to the west side of the bridge aren’t trash—they’re reminders of a relatively recent Baylor University student tradition of attempting to toss tortillas onto an old nearby bridge post.
the historic Waco Suspension Bridge
You’re not going to encounter too many other museums like the Texas Ranger Hall of Fame and Museum (106 Texas Ranger Trail, 254/750-8631, www.texasranger.org, daily 9am-5pm, $7 adults, $6 seniors, $3 children). Stephen F. Austin introduced these legendary hired hands to the state’s lexicon in 1823 when they were brought on board to help protect settlers against Native Americans along the westward-expanding frontier. They played significant roles in Texas’s history—participating in the revolution against Mexico, bringing down Bonnie and Clyde—but by 1935, the state government roped them in under the jurisdiction of the Texas Department of Public Safety, where their primary role has been to focus on special investigations.
Although they currently number only about 100 members, the Rangers remain famous for their sharp skills and are considered some of the elite law enforcement officers of the modern era. The museum showcases their legacy through exhibits featuring documents, artifacts, and firearms. The Hall of Fame honors the most distinguished Rangers in history, and the research center contains archives, books, original clippings, genealogies, and photographs.
Another uniquely Lone Star State experience is the Texas Sports Hall of Fame (1108 S. University Parks Dr., 254/756-1633, www.tshof.org, Mon.-Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. noon-5pm, $7 adults, $6 seniors, $3 students ages 5-18). Sports are an integral part of life in Texas, and the museum pays homage to the state’s mythical stories and most accomplished athletes, including Nolan Ryan, Troy Aikman, George Foreman, Roger Clemens, David Robinson, Earl Campbell, and Tom Landry. The facility is divided into four separate wings—the Texas Sports Hall of Fame, the Texas Tennis Hall of Fame, the Texas High School Football Hall of Fame, and the Texas High School Basketball Hall of Fame. Video clips show highlights of Texas sports moments and athletes’ achievements, and visitors can view sports artifacts and an interesting display showcasing the evolution of tennis rackets.
In early 1993, Waco received unwelcome international media attention when the U.S. Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms tried to execute a search warrant at the Branch Davidian ranch at Mount Carmel, about 12 miles northeast of Waco. Gunfire was exchanged, tanks moved in, and the entire complex was eventually burned to the ground. Dozens of people, including Branch Davidian leader David Koresh, died in the incident. Little is left, but what’s still there remains a destination for curiosity seekers. Throughout the late 1990s and early 2000s, representatives of the Branch Davidians, a radical offshoot of the Seventh-Day Adventists that have been in Waco since 1935, remained at the site, answering visitors’ questions and showing them around. However, in recent years, the property has been taken over by a new group, which doesn’t take as kindly to strangers and tends to keep the gates closed to outsiders.
Those still interested in snooping around can check with the Waco Visitors Center (next to the Texas Ranger Museum at I-35 exit 335B, 254/750-8696 or 800/922-6386, daily 8am-5pm) about possibly getting a map to the out-of-the-way compound. Or you can head there on your own: Take I-35 North to Loop 340 and turn right (east). Continue four miles and take a left onto FM 2491; follow FM 2491 six miles to Double EE Ranch Road; turn left and you’ll see the site about 200 yards up on the right side of the road.
One of Waco’s gastronomic specialties is chicken-fried steak, and several spots in town serve up some of the best Texas has to offer, along with regular ol’ steak and continental fare. However, a few restaurants cater to a more refined palate, so fine dining is an option for those seeking a quality meal in Waco.
Most Waco visitors will likely end up at (or near) Magnolia, so it’s worth planning to be there around lunch or dinner to take advantage of the impressive local food trailer options. Although trailer parks are naturally ever-evolving, one option at Magnolia has been a long-standing stalwart: Cheddar Box (601 Webster Ave., 850/501-2076, www.cheddarboxwaco.com, daily 11am-6pm, $7-14). Who knew grilled cheese could be elevated to such an art form? Although you can’t go wrong with any of the compelling options, the best of the bunch include the Boss (bacon, gouda, and basil), Guac This Way (guacamole, salsa, and pulled pork), and Sweet Granny (granny smith apples, cream cheese, honey, and cinnamon). Enhance the entire comfy experience by eating at a picnic table overlooking Magnolia’s Great Lawn.
A popular upscale yet casual eatery is 1424 Bistro (1424 Washington Ave., 254/752-7385, www.1424waco.com, Tues.-Sat. 5pm-10pm, Sun. 11am-2pm and 5pm-9pm, $12-30), one of the few places in town where there can be a wait (due in part to the demand, but also to the limited seating area). Specializing in seafood and Italian dishes, 1424 is an ideal place for a quality meal in a pleasant setting. Nightly seasonal specials are prepared using only natural ingredients, and the head chef often makes the rounds to discuss dishes with the diners.
Within walking distance of Magnolia is the local legend Schmaltz’s Sandwich Shoppe (105 S. 5th St., 254/753-2332, www.schmaltzsandwichshop.com, Mon.-Fri. 10am-3pm, $5-10). This is an old-school lunch-counter spot, offering a nice change of pace from the nearby trendy trailers and fast-food options. Schmaltz’s signature item is its round homemade bun—a perfect accompaniment for the fresh veggies and tasty deli meats. You’ll feel like a local as you sit in the small dining room overhearing conversations about Baylor sports and wacky weather.
One of the busiest hangouts for pub grub is Cricket’s Grill and Draft House (211 Mary Ave., 254/754-4677, www.cricketsgrill.com, daily 11am-2am, $8-15). The emphasis is on the draft, but the pizza and fried-food items are worthy companions. Burgers are also a must, and Waco’s legendary locale is the not so aptly named Health Camp (2601 Circle Rd., 254/752-2081, www.health-camp-waco.com, daily 11am-9pm, $5-12). A classic ’50s burger joint, Health Camp offers greasy yet immensely satisfying burgers and perfectly prepared onion rings. Not to be overlooked is Dubl-R Old Fashioned Burgers (1810 Herring Ave., 254/753-1603, www.dubl-r.com, Mon.-Fri. 10am-6:30pm, Sat. 10am-2pm, $6-12). Another ’50s-style joint, Dubl-R serves up delicious, meaty handmade patties on soft, sweet buns.
Downtown in the shadow of the city’s lone “skyscraper” (the 22-story Alico Building) is the stylish and welcoming Dichotomy (508 Austin Ave., 254/714-1710, www.dichotomycs.com, Sun.-Thurs. 6am-midnight, Fri.-Sat. 6am-2am, $3-7). With its attention to design and high-quality ingredients, Dichotomy feels like a big-city experience, yet the extremely friendly baristas in hipster-style garb are a reminder you’re still in Waco. And you’ll be glad you are, because the perfectly prepared and decorated lattes, exceptional customer service, and fetching details will make you want to soak up the local scene (and excellent java) for hours.
Waco isn’t teeming with trendy, historic, or even interesting places to spend the night; in fact, chain hotels are virtually the only option. Fortunately, for the most part, they’re clean and affordable. The best of the bunch are downtown near Baylor University, including Super 8 Waco (1320 S. Jack Kultgen Freeway, 254/754-1023, www.super8.com, $69 d), which features free hot breakfasts and free wireless Internet access. Another good option near Baylor is La Quinta Inn (1110 S. 9th St., 254/752-9741, www.lq.com, $95 d), offering free Internet access, a complimentary continental breakfast, and an outdoor pool.
One of the most upscale options in town is the Hilton Waco (113 S. University Parks Dr., 254/754-8484, www.hilton.com, $189 d). The recently renovated “high” rise, adjoining the Waco Convention Center, overlooks the mighty Brazos River and is across the street from the city’s warehouse entertainment center. Rooms include free wireless Internet, and the hotel contains a fitness center, outdoor pool, hot tub, and tennis court. The newest option in Waco, coinciding with the influx of Magnolia visitors, is the trendy and fancy Hotel Indigo (211 Clay Ave., 254/754-7000, www.ihg.com, $188 d). The Indigo occupies prime real estate downtown, allowing visitors to walk along the Brazos River and to Magnolia Market. The hotel’s amenities include a versatile indoor/outdoor pool, a fantastic restaurant and bar, free Wi-Fi, and contemporary room furnishings.
Since Waco is overrun with chain hotels, consider staying at one of the city’s bed-and-breakfasts as an alternative. Nestled near downtown is the Cotton Palace (1910 Austin Ave., 254/753-7294, www.thecottonpalace.com, $150 and up), a three-story 1910 Arts and Crafts-style home with seven plush rooms. Guests can relax in rocking chairs on the front porch and help themselves to beverages and homemade treats from the bottomless cookie jar. Luxury robes and marble whirlpool tubs are available in some rooms. For a more rural experience, there’s Bed and Breakfast on White Rock Creek (267 Ruby Dell Ln., 254/799-9783, www.whiterockcreek, $120 and up). Accommodations are located in a historic home overlooking scenic White Rock Creek. The B&B features comfortable rustic furnishings, gourmet breakfasts, and the peace and privacy of quiet country living.
A good camping option along the Brazos River is Fort Fisher Park (106 Texas Ranger Trail, 254/750-8696), offering tent and RV sites as well as screened shelters. Also popular are the series of camping areas along the shores of Lake Waco operated by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. Sites include Speegleville Park, Midway Park, and Airport Park (254/756-5359), each providing basic drive-in pads and spaces with water and electricity.
The helpful and friendly folks at the Waco Convention and Visitors Bureau (254/750-5810 or 800/321-9226, www.wacoheartoftexas.com) operate a valuable Tourist Information Center (106 Texas Ranger Trail, 254/750-8696 or 800/922-6386, daily 8am-5pm). Pick up free maps, visitors guides, and brochures about Waco attractions or ask the staff for further insight about their city.
Waco is practically equidistant from Austin and the Metroplex (about 90 minutes from both), so most travelers arrive via I-35, the city’s (and state’s) main north-south thoroughfare. Those wanting to show up in grand style can utilize the Waco Regional Airport (866/359-9226), serviced by American Eagle. Cab service from the airport is available via Waco Yellow Cab (254/756-1861). The average fare to downtown Waco is around $15.
The Hill Country of west Central Texas is a charmingly inspirational landscape, offering rolling vistas, cool breezes, and German heritage as distinctive attractions. City dwellers in Austin and San Antonio often spend summer weekends at bed-and-breakfasts and ranches in the Hill Country, where the slow pace of life and prospect of picking the perfect bushel of peaches provide a welcome getaway. Despite the fanciful moniker, the hills aren’t really too dramatic—heights of 1,400 to 1,700 feet are the norm—but the slight increase in elevation and decrease in humidity are welcome respites for heat-drenched lowlanders to the east and south. The views don’t quite qualify as breathtaking, but the eye-popping chill of the region’s spring-fed rivers will prompt gasps. Cabins, lodges, resorts, and dude ranches dot the landscape, many offering access to a nearby river (Frio, Sabinal, Guadalupe, Medina, and Pedernales) where visitors can swim, canoe, fish, or tube in the refreshingly cool, crystal-clear water.
This small Hill Country town of nearly 11,000 people is a favorite weekend destination for Texans looking to add a different cultural spice to their lives. The community’s German heritage remains a major draw, with dozens of restaurants and shops specializing in food, drink, and crafts from the Old Country. Several annual events celebrate Fredericksburg’s German pioneer past, including the Wild Game Dinner (for men only) and the Damenfest (for women only). Some of the town’s longtime residents still speak German as a first language.
Fredericksburg was one of several German settlements to span westward from the Texas Gulf Coast to the Hill Country. The first wagon train of 120 pioneers arrived from New Braunfels in 1846, and soon after, they dubbed their community Fredericksburg after Prince Frederick of Prussia. The town was laid out much like traditional German villages along the Rhine, home of many of the colonists, with one wide main street paralleling Town Creek.
Now, more than 150 years later, this wide road is U.S. Highway 290, which remains the main thoroughfare in town, and it’s regularly filled with visitors from across the country, who descend upon Fredericksburg—often via luxury air-conditioned bus—to explore the art galleries, biergartens, German bakeries, and antiques shops.
You can’t miss the towering three-story steamboat-esque tower presiding over the entrance to the National Museum of the Pacific War (340 E. Main St., 830/997-4379, www.pacificwarmuseum.org, daily 9am-5pm, $14 adults, $12 seniors/military, $6 students), and you shouldn’t miss it. This enormous six-acre site, owned by the Texas Historical Commission, is the only institution in the continental United States dedicated exclusively to telling the story of the Pacific Theater battles of World War II. But why is it in Fredericksburg? The museum was originally known as the Admiral Nimitz Museum, named after Fredericksburg native Chester Nimitz, one of the most respected leaders of World War II’s Pacific campaign (Iwo Jima, Guadalcanal). As a boy in Fredericksburg, Nimitz lived in the family’s famous steamboat-shaped hotel, and he went on to have a highly decorated military career, highlighted by his position as fleet admiral during World War II.
the National Museum of the Pacific War
In 2009, the museum added the George H. W. Bush Gallery, a state-of-the-art 33,000-foot exhibit focusing on the inspiring story of America’s war in the Pacific Theater during World War II. The gallery features 40 media installations, approximately 900 artifacts, and hundreds of historic photographs.
The original portion of the museum offers a fascinating collection of equipment, artifacts, and models related to the Pacific campaign, including a B-25 bomber, a submarine, battleship artillery, and a comprehensive collection of uniforms, weapons, and scale-model destroyers and aircraft carriers. Elaborate walk-through dioramas bring the island combat scenes to life, and, though the Nazi flags and uniforms cause an involuntary shudder, they put the war and the era in context. Even if you’re not a history buff, you’ll find the well-preserved and simply interpreted artifacts and memorabilia intriguing.
Outside the exhibit halls lie a memorial courtyard honoring war veterans, a Plaza of Presidents dedicated to the 10 commanders-in-chief who served in World War II, and the remarkable Japanese Garden of Peace, an inviting natural sanctuary containing the three basic elements represented in a traditional Japanese garden: stone, plants, and water. The garden was a gift to the American people from the military leaders of Japan, who held Admiral Nimitz in extremely high regard.
On any given weekend night during the summer, you’re bound to hear music, whoops, and hollers emanating from rustic old buildings along the Hill Country’s rural ranch roads. Dozens of historic dance halls are still standing throughout the region, where German immigrants built sturdy structures for festivals and community gatherings more than a century ago. The buildings were true feats of engineering. Designed with Texas’s hot climate in mind, most included walls comprised mainly of windows, which were propped open with long sticks to catch refreshing breezes.
Texas’s dance halls have been hosting bands for nearly a century.
Thanks to their solid construction, many of the original structures remain standing in rural areas where German immigrants settled, including Fredericksburg, Luckenbach, and near Austin. Although some are in dire need of a face-lift, many still serve their original purpose as community gathering places for friends and family.
There are high-profile places such as Luckenbach Dance Hall that draw large crowds on weekends for big-name acts like Robert Earl Keen and Gary P. Nunn, but it’s the ramshackle buildings near small communities like Kendalia, Cherry Spring, and Twin Sister that keep the tradition alive. Up-and-coming artists can still make a name for themselves at these low-profile locales (Pat Green once played the rural Texas dance hall circuit), and families continue to gather at these historic halls to hear country music and dance across the well-worn floors that have supported thousands of pairs of scootin’ boots for more than 100 years.
The museum’s newest component, the Pacific Combat Zone, is located a short walk away (one block). An initial phase opened in 2015, featuring informative exhibits about combat boats and life for soldiers on the Pacific. A second phase, expected to open in summer 2017, will focus on “living-history shows,” offering families an opportunity to see flamethrowers and reenacted battle scenes.
Bookending Fredericksburg’s bustling Main Street scene is the city’s other major history-related attraction, the Pioneer Museum Complex (325 W. Main St., 830/990-8441, www.pioneermuseum.net, Mon.-Sat. 10am-5pm, $5 adults ages 18 and up, $3 children ages 6-17). This is the kind of museum many small towns have, but most rural communities aren’t founded by German settlers who traversed across the hardscrabble environs of the Texas Hill Country to forge a living among the limestone-laden soil, meddlesome cedar trees, and oppressive Texas heat. This collection of late 1800s and early 1900s buildings is based on the original property—a home, smokehouse, and barn—belonging to Henry Kammlah, one of the city’s early residents. The home is filled with various pieces of furniture and equipment from pioneer life, but several aspects of Kammlah’s home are unique to his heritage—the cool, damp basement contains a large wooden beer keg, and visitors can almost smell the savory scent of sausage emanating from the old smokehouse in the back. The remainder of the complex contains a barn with old farm and kitchen equipment, a collection of buggies (as in horse-and), and an old schoolhouse complete with desks and a chalkboard with lessons written in German. Serving as an entryway to the complex is the Dambach-Besier House, a 1969 limestone residence relocated to the site and now serving as the welcome center for the museum and Fredericksburg Convention and Visitors Bureau.
If you still can’t get enough of the German Hill Country heritage, drop by the small yet interesting Vereins Kirche Museum (100 block of W. Main at the Marktplatz Center, 830/997-7832, Tues.-Sat. 10am-4:30pm, free). Like the Pioneer Museum Complex, the Vereins Kirche Museum is operated by the Gillespie County Historical Society and features archives and exhibits containing photos and artifacts dedicated to the Fredericksburg area’s history, particularly the rugged life experiences of the German settlers and everyday life on the frontier. Housed in a 1936 replica of the 1847 Vereins Kirche (Society Church), the octagonal building honors one of the first structures erected in Fredericksburg and holds the distinction of being the city’s first museum.
Hill Country heritage aside, Fredericksburg’s big draw is the shopping. The town’s sidewalks are lined with chalkboard signs, and sweet smells of flowery domestic products entice passersby with promises of newly imported stock and bargains galore. Though most offer similar types of country-kitchen-style pricey furniture and knickknacks, there are some worthy boutiques and galleries featuring uncommon objects and rustic-without-being-cute home furnishings. Among the more popular establishments is Carol Hicks Bolton Antiques (301 S. Lincoln St., 830/997-5551, www.carolhicksbolton.com), specializing in antique and modern furniture, ranging from small sconces to enormous armoires. Just down the street, you’ll have to look for the fire-truck-red front door (there isn’t a sign) to discover Something Different II (221 E. Main St., 830/997-2734, www.somethingdifferent.com). True to its name, this eclectic shop features traditional, contemporary, and downright exotic furniture and accessories. Another popular spot is the nearby Phil Jackson’s Granite & Iron Store (206 E. Main St., 830/997-4716, www.granite-iron.com), specializing in Mr. Jackson’s signature custom tables, most featuring rare granite slabs and intricate ironwork. The home decor items here are also noteworthy, including tasteful lamps, clocks, pottery, and mirrors. Finally, a stroll down ye olde Main Street would be incomplete without stopping by Fredericksburg Fudge (218 E. Main St., 830/997-0533, www.fbfudge.com). This traditional candy shop has been doling out thick chunks of rich, sweet, made-from-scratch fudge for decades and provides the perfect souvenir for that special someone who’d rather enjoy a taste of Fredericksburg than have a memento of it sitting on a shelf.
How often do you get to eat authentic German food? Sure, there’s the occasional sauerkraut here and wienerschnitzel there, but when’s the last time you sank your teeth into an uberbacken schweinesnitzel? Fredericksburg is the ideal place to explore these indulgences, from fried appetizers to fancy steaks. A good starting point is the S Fredericksburg Brewing Company (245 E. Main St., 830/997-1646, www.yourbrewery.com, Mon.-Fri. 11:30am-9pm, Sat. 11am-10pm, Sun. 11am-7pm, $11-24). Smack-dab in the middle of all the action, this brewpub provides a remarkable taste of German culture and cuisine. Diners are encouraged to enjoy one of the finely crafted homebrews—made on-site in the shiny copper tanks near the dining room—in the biergarten out back. The beers are immensely satisfying, especially compared to the mass-produced products available at most bars and restaurants. Although the Peacepipe Pale Ale isn’t as hoppy as most bitter brews of this type, it has a sweet, full flavor; the Pioneer Porter, meanwhile, is everything a rich, dark beer should be. The menu items are just as flavorful, including German fare such as jagerschnitzel, sausage, and the incomparable überbackene schweineschnitzel (a tasty pork chop smothered with tangy cheese, colorful peppers, and a sweet apple cider cream sauce), along with local specialties such as chicken-fried steak and venison chili. For a slightly more formal meal, go to Der Lindenbaum (312 E. Main St., 830/997-9126, www.derlindenbaum.com, $12-29). In a historic limestone building, Der Lindenbaum is the place to get a truly authentic German dining experience. The standard German dishes (schnitzels, steaks, homemade breads) are worth sampling, but the restaurant’s specialties are more traditional meals such as sauerbraten (Rhineland-style sweet-and-sour marinated roast beef) and schweinekotelett (pork chops in mustard sauce). Save room for the strudel.
If a hefty plate of meat and potatoes isn’t what you’re after, there are nearly a dozen bakers in town serving up pastries and light lunches. One of the best is Twisted Sisters Bake Shop (111 S. Washington St., 830/990-7999, Tues.-Sat. 7:30am-5:30pm, Sun. 7:30am-noon, $6-15). Tucked away in a pleasant courtyard behind busy Main Street, Twisted Sisters is a wonderful place to enjoy a tasty breakfast—especially a delectable pastry. Not surprisingly, the homemade bread is outstanding, but the desserts are the main draw here, and you can’t go wrong with whatever suits your fancy. Try something slightly different, like the sausage kolache, chorizo breakfast bowl, or blueberry scone. Another noteworthy place to pick up some sweets is the Old German Bakery (225 W. Main St., 830/997-9084, oldgermanbakeryandrestaurant.com, daily 7am-3pm, $6-14), which specializes in homemade goodies and hearty lunches. The cookies are well known throughout town, and people flock here to pick up potato pancakes and fresh loaves of bread.
After having your fill of German fare and baked goods, you may be in search of a fine meal away from all the hustle and bustle of Main Street. If so, head directly to Hill Top Cafe (10661 N. U.S. Hwy. 87, 830/997-8922, www.hilltopcafe.com, Tues.-Sat. 11am-2pm and 5pm-9pm, Sun. 11am-2pm and 5pm-8pm, $12-30). About 10 miles west of town, this worth-the-drive restaurant features an upscale Cajun-y take on comfort food. Menu highlights include the rubbed tenderloin with Greek seasoning, fried Port Arthur shrimp, frog legs, and catfish. Try to save room for (or bring home a box of) the peach cobbler and/or raspberry pie. Another nice option outside of town is Cotton Gin Restaurant & Lodging (2805 S. State Hwy. 16, 830/990-5734, www.cottonginrestaurant.com, call ahead for hours, $15-44). Situated in a beautiful outdoor setting with a koi pond and mellow musicians often accompanying your meal, the Cotton Gin features delectable items such as the grande chicken-fried pork steak, jumbo lump crab gratin, and an amazing rib eye steak.
Fredericksburg is the ultimate bed-and-breakfast town. In fact, there are hundreds of options available in the area, ranging from rustic ranch cabins to luxurious posh châteaus to a historic railroad sleeper car. With such a wide selection, many travelers opt to begin their search by providing their particular lodging desires to a B&B locator service, such as First Class Bed & Breakfast Reservation Service (909 E. Main St., 888/991-6749, www.fredericksburg-lodging.com). You can also peruse the many, many options listed at Visit Fredericksburg’s website (www.visitfredericksburgtx.com).
Of course, not everyone visiting Fredericksburg is required to stay at a B&B. For a dependable and quilt-free evening, book a room at La Quinta Inn & Suites (1465 E. Main St., 800/531-5900, www.lq.com, $135-199 d). The hotel features free Internet access, a fitness center, an outdoor pool and Jacuzzi, and a free continental breakfast. A nicer option near the heart of downtown is Hampton Inn & Suites (515 E. Main St., 830/997-9696, www.hamptoninn.com, $179 d), offering free Internet access, complimentary breakfast and beverage service, an exercise room, and an outdoor pool.
A good starting point to get a handle on Fredericksburg’s myriad shopping, eating, and lodging options is the Visitor Information Center (302 E. Austin St., 830/997-6523 or 888/997-3600, www.visitfredericksburgtx.com, Mon.-Fri. 8:30am-5pm, Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. noon-3pm). The friendly staff will provide maps and brochures, and as an added bonus, visitors can watch an informative nine-minute DVD about the town and its attractions.
From Austin, Fredericksburg is about a 90-minute drive due west on U.S. Highway 290. It’s a beautiful stretch of prime Hill Country scenery, so take your time and enjoy the ride!
Proudly billing itself as the “Cowboy Capital of the World,” Bandera (population 857) is a quaint little Western town surrounded by working and guest ranches. This is where city folk and out-of-staters go when they want to get away and experience a somewhat-authentic slice of life on a dude ranch. Bandera is also proud of its rodeo heritage, touting its distinction of having more champions than any Texas town of its size. Visitors can witness this legacy at public rodeo events throughout the summer or get in touch with their inner cowboy or cowgirl through the myriad horseback riding opportunities around town.
Bandera’s main draw is its dude ranches. Some are hokier than others, but all offer the natural escape most visitors are seeking. Instead of carting the kids or the grandparents around in a car to museums and shows, families, mostly from San Antonio, opt to spend a weekend in the country surrounded by docile horses, wooded trails, swimming holes, outdoor barbecues, campfires, and hayrides. It’s a nice change of pace and allows for a different kind of bonding, sometimes with other families at the ranch-style community meals and recreational events. Activities are optional, so guests can choose to spend as much time as they like inside rustic cabins and lodges or outdoors getting in touch with their inner cowpoke.
One of the best known of the Bandera bunch is the Dixie Dude Ranch (833 Dixie Dude Ranch Rd., 830/796-7771, www.dixieduderanch.com, adults average $150 each per night, children average $75). Unlike many area locales, the Dixie is an actual working stock ranch, operating since 1901. Guests can partake of planned activities such as horseback riding, swimming, fishing (gear provided), hiking, and hayrides, or they can venture out on their own to explore the ranch on hiking trails, hunt for fossils and arrowheads, or visit the 100-year-old barn and cemetery. Chow time means meals in the family-style dining house, outdoor barbecues, fried chicken, or a cowboy breakfast. Accommodations are in duplex cabins, cottages, a two-story bunkhouse, and a main lodge. All have two or more beds with private baths, air-conditioning, and heat.
Firmly in the resort ranch category (as opposed to working) is the renowned Mayan Ranch (off Pecan St., approximately 1.5 miles west of Bandera, 830/796-3312, www.mayanranch.com, adults average $165 each per night, children average $80, three meals and two horseback rides included in the cost). Guests at the Mayan can pony up for a full day of optional activities including a cowboy breakfast cookout, trail rides, a poolside lunch, swimming, cowboy games, tubing on the adjacent Medina River, dancing, and even fireworks. Afterward, guests are certain to sleep soundly in whichever accommodation they choose—individual cottages with up to three bedrooms or one of the large lodge rooms overlooking the Hill Country.
Another popular Bandera getaway is the Silver Spur Guest Ranch (9266 Bandera Creek Rd., 830/796-3037, www.silverspur-ranch.com, adults average $150 each per night, children average $75, three meals and two hours of horseback rides included in the cost, minimum two-night stay). Alongside an enormous state park, the Silver Spur offers many of the activities found at other well-heeled dude ranches, including trail rides, outdoor cookouts, and hayrides, with additional features such as a junior Olympic-sized swimming pool and an arena for barrel racing, pole bending, and other riding activities. The main lodge and cabins offer modern and comfortable amenities.
Bandera boasts nearly a dozen more dude ranches in the general vicinity, each offering a varied range of rustic charm and cowboy-related activities. For a comprehensive list of options and a sneak peek at what they have to offer, check in with the Bandera County Convention and Visitors Bureau (800/364-3833, www.banderacowboycapital.com).
Most of Bandera’s dude ranches offer horseback riding as part of the package, but not everyone visiting the area is hitching up to the ranch experience. Several independent stables in the area will arrange horseback rides by the hour, day, or even overnight. Options include Lightning Ranch (830/535-4096, www.lightningranch.com) and Bar M Guest Ranch (830/796-9096, www.bar-mranch.com).
Those looking for a little diversion while in town can visit the Frontier Times Museum (510 13th St., 830/796-3864, www.frontiertimesmuseum.org, Mon.-Sat. 10am-4:30pm, $5 adults, $3 seniors, $2 children ages 6-17). This is a decidedly old-school museum, so don’t expect interactive, hands-on exhibits; instead, you’ll find an amazing collection of random stuff deemed important by townspeople since 1933. Western relics abound, including old household items, photos, farming equipment, and rodeo memorabilia, as well as an eclectic mix of “exotic” items from Asia and Europe, such as rare bells, plates, and a gong from the Ming Dynasty. The museum also includes a gallery of Western art.
One of the crown jewels of the Texas parks system is the Hill Country State Natural Area (10600 Bandera Creek Rd., 830/796-4413, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, daily Feb.-Nov., weekends Dec.-Jan., $6 ages 13 and older for day use, $3 ages 13 and older for overnight use). Secluded and undeveloped, this ruggedly beautiful 5,400-acre park offers opportunities for equestrians, hikers, and mountain bikers to traverse trails across valleys, streams, and limestone hills. Primitive backcountry camping areas are available to equestrian and non-equestrian campers.
Most of the parkland was donated by the Merrick Bar-O-Ranch, which stipulated that it “be kept far removed and untouched by modern civilization, where everything is preserved intact, yet put to a useful purpose.” The terrain ranges from flat creek bottoms to rocky canyons reaching 2,000 feet in elevation. Several spring-fed streams provide swimming holes and water for horses, but the humans among the herd are encouraged to bring their own drinking water.
Despite being a small town of nearly 1,000, Bandera has several noteworthy restaurants catering to locals and the city slickers who invade the community most weekends. To get a true taste of Bandera, drop by the OST Restaurant (305 Main St., 830/796-3836, daily 6am-9pm, $8-18). The acronym stands for Old Spanish Trail, which used to run through the area, and the Western theme permeates everything from the menu to the John Wayne-inspired decor. The OST’s specialty is breakfast, including staples such as biscuits and gravy, hash browns, and huevos rancheros, served at any time. The soups and chicken-fried steak are local favorites. For an authentic experience in the Cowboy Capital, you can literally saddle up to the bar at the OST. Another busy downtown place to get good country vittles is Busbee’s Bar-B-Q (319 Main St., 830/796-3153, Wed.-Mon. 10:30am-8pm, $8-17). Busbee’s serves up traditional Texas barbecue—brisket, sausage, and ribs—along with standard side dishes like coleslaw, potato salad, and beans. For a good Tex-Mex fix, visitors can stick close to downtown for their fill of tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas, and breakfast burritos at the tiny El Jacalito (1207 Cedar St., 830/460-3853, Tues. 6:30am-2pm, Wed.-Fri. 6:30am-2pm and 4pm-9pm, Sat. 6:30am-noon, Sun. 7am-noon, $6-13).
For entertainment, the most famous establishment in Bandera is Arkey Blue’s Silver Dollar Saloon (308 Main St., 830/796-8826, open 24 hours, live music Wed.-Sun.). Established in the 1930s, Arkey’s is a classic honky-tonk with a sawdust-covered dance floor that’s experienced decades of scootin’ boots on its well-worn surface. The scene is more authentically Western than many of the nearby resort ranches, and the crowds (especially the veteran two-steppers) will give out-of-towners a true sense of country living. Arkey himself has been tending bar since the late 1960s, and he still occasionally takes the stage with his Blue Cowboys. Over the years, the saloon has hosted many high-profile guest performers, including Willie Nelson, Ernest Tubb, and Bruce and Charlie Robison.
Far less famous yet certainly entertaining in its own right is the Chikin Coop (402 Main St., 830/796-4496, www.chikincoop.com, daily 11am-2am). Located among the restaurants and bustle of downtown, the saloon hosts live music on the deck overlooking Main Street every Thursday-Saturday. This is a good spot for dancing, drinking, and people watching, and if you happen to arrive on horseback, you’re in luck—tie up to the hitchin’ post out front, and you might even receive an “I got a horse” discount the whole time you and your horse are there.
As unbelievable as it may seem, not everyone visiting the Bandera area wants to stay at a dude ranch. Fortunately, there are other worthwhile alternatives, including the charming River Front Motel (1004 Maple St., 830/460-3690, www.theriverfrontmotel.com, cabins average $99). The simple, rustic motel has 11 cabins near the river each offering a microwave, fridge, coffee, cable TV, private bathroom, and covered front porch. Other nearby options include the affordable but not-quite-as-charming Bandera Lodge (700 State Hwy. 16 S., 830/796-3093, average $69 d), containing 21 rooms with microwaves and refrigerators as well as free Internet access.
For some, a trip to the country necessitates a stay in a bed-and-breakfast, where gentle breezes land on soft downy pillows and days begin with gourmet coffee and egg dishes. The Diamond H Ranch Bed and Breakfast (four miles northwest of Bandera at 5322 Hwy. 16 N., 830/796-4820, www.diamondhbandera.com, $110 and up) is a comfortable, laid-back locale along the Medina River. The main house has seven Western-style bedrooms with private baths, air-conditioning, heat, porches, and patios, and the main room includes a pool table, games, and a large fireplace. Cool Water Acres (3301 FM 470, 830/796-4866, www.coolwateracres.com, $125) is set on a five-acre spring-fed lake offering crisp, clear water for swimming, snorkeling, fishing, and relaxing. The cabin is part of an 1870 homestead that holds three adults comfortably. Property features include complimentary fruit and farm fresh eggs upon arrival, a private floating dock, and a nearby barn with friendly horses, cats, and chickens.
Bandera is brimming with other B&Bs—a comprehensive list of options is available at the Bandera County Convention and Visitors Bureau’s website (www.banderacowboycapital.com).
For a small town, Bandera has plenty of visitor services to oversee, and this is ably handled by the Bandera County Convention and Visitors Bureau (126 State Hwy. 16 S., 830/796-3045 or 800/364-3833, www.banderacowboycapital.com). The website is particularly helpful for comparing available amenities, and the office staff offers expert advice and provide brochures, maps, and directions to the hard-to-find destinations tucked among the hills.
Bandera is much closer to San Antonio than Austin, but its Hill Country status makes it more of a Central Texas community than South Texas. From Austin, take I-35 South to the 1604 outer loop of San Antonio (about an hour away), then head westward, continuing on Highway 16, which becomes Main Street in Bandera.
Most people assume Johnson City (population 1,785) is named for its legendary native son, Lyndon Baines Johnson, the 36th president of the United States. It’s actually named after his grandfather’s nephew James Polk Johnson, even though he never achieved quite the same level of international acclaim as LBJ. The Johnson family, however, is an ideal representation of the determined, down-to-earth folks who settled in this rugged part of the state more than 150 years ago and whose descendants remain on the rocky yet endearing terrain. A visit to this small town, especially the incredible LBJ Ranch, reveals the gritty and tenacious nature of the region, reflected in the no-nonsense approach of LBJ himself. This was truly far away from Camelot.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Even if you’re just passing through the Hill Country, be sure to set aside a couple hours to tour the remarkable Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park (two visitors centers—100 Lady Bird Ln. in Johnson City, and at the LBJ Ranch near Stonewall 14 miles west of Johnson City on Hwy. 290, 830/868-7128, www.nps.gov/lyjo, daily 8am-5pm, Texas White House tour $3 adults).
the Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park
As most visitors soon find out, LBJ remains a larger-than-life figure who brought acclaim (and electricity) to the Hill Country. To get a full appreciation for this mythical man, start at Johnson City’s LBJ State Park and Historic Site—his boyhood home and the Johnson Settlement (his grandparents’ log cabin home)—which put his formative years in the context of his environment.
Afterward, make the relatively quick 14-mile drive west to the LBJ Ranch near Stonewall. Beginning in 2008, the National Park Service opened the family residence, aka the Texas White House, to the public. Visitors can view the president’s office, living room, and dining room, and the Johnsons’ bedroom suites. The self-guided driving tour on the ranch property lets visitors learn about what made LBJ the legendary figure he became by experiencing everything from the one-room schoolhouse he would sneak into as a four-year-old to the small graveyard with the modest granite blocks marking the graves of Lyndon and his beloved wife, Lady Bird. The ranch’s interpretive center includes informative exhibits about the history of LBJ and the Hill Country, including a post office display with audio versions of letters describing the harsh environs of the region to relatives on the East Coast and in Germany.
Johnson City’s newest attraction is in one of its oldest buildings. The Hill Country Science Mill (101 S. Lady Bird Ln., 830/263-6406, www.sciencemill.org, Wed.-Sun. 10am-4pm, $10 adults, $8.50 children ages 3-18). Located in an 1880 feed mill punctuated by eye-catching rustic silos, the Science Mill offers an intriguingly different approach to typical science museums. Curiosity is key here, as students of all ages are drawn to experiment with dozens of fun (and educational) displays to test their brains. A highlight is Mindball, offering kids and parents a chance to test their telekinetic skills by strapping on an electrical headband and attempting to control a ball via brain waves. Other fun exhibits include a banana-powered musical program, a racetrack for custom-built toy cars, and a fascinating sandbox that allows visitors to create hills and valleys, which are immediately tracked with colored topographical lights.
the Hill Country Science Mill
There’s plenty of land in the Hill Country, and apparently it’s somewhat similar to the environment of the creatures that roam the spacious grounds of the Exotic Resort Zoo (four miles north of Johnson City at 235 Zoo Trail, 830/868-4357, www.zooexotics.com, daily 9am-6pm, $15.95 adults, $13.95 children). Visitors take a guided open-bus tour through the expansive property while guides describe the characteristics of the zoo’s animals, including giraffes, lemurs, kangaroos, zebras, bears, ostrich, and buffalo. Some of the friendly beasts will even let visitors pet them (the treats handed out by the guides offer an extra incentive). The Exotic Resort Zoo also operates several cabins, three with kitchenettes, for those who really want to experience life on the range.
One of the most pleasant and scenic spots in Central Texas is Pedernales Falls State Park (nine miles east of Johnson City at 2585 Park Rd. 6026, 830/868-7304, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, $6 ages 13 and older). Set on more than 5,200 acres of rolling hills and flowing water, the park’s main attraction is its namesake Pedernales Falls, visible from a scenic overlook at the north end of the park.
Park activities include camping, hiking, swimming, tubing, mountain biking, fishing, and, most popular of all, bird-watching. The park has a covered bird-viewing station with feeders (food is provided year-round) and a drip bath. Quails, doves, rufous-crowned sparrows, western scrub jays, and the endangered golden-cheeked warbler nest in the park and visit the feeders. Facilities include campsites with water and electricity, primitive campsites, restrooms with and without showers, 20 miles of hiking and mountain biking trails, and 14 miles of backpacking trails.
For a town of not quite 1,000, Johnson City has several worthy restaurants, perfect for fueling up before a day at the LBJ Ranch or Pedernales Falls State Park. The best of the bunch is Pecan Street Brewing (106 E. Pecan Dr., 830-868-2500, www.pecanstreetbrewing.com, Tues.-Sun. 11am-9pm, $10-29). Located across from Johnson City’s magnificent historic courthouse, Pecan Street Brewing does comfortable, down-home cuisine just right. Pizza and beer are the big draws here—the 1897 Jailbreak IPA, Screwloose Blonde, and Chain Gang Oatmeal Stout are highlights, and the brick-oven pizzas are family-pleasing favorites.
Another popular eatery is East Main Grill (209 E. Main St., 830/868-7710, Wed.-Thurs. and Sun. 11am-2:30pm, Fri.-Sat. and Mon. 11am-2:30pm and 5pm-9pm, $13-29). Housed in a historic lumberyard alongside several antiques shops, East Main offers upscale country fare in a pleasant environment. Choose from standards like chicken-fried steak, bronzed catfish, bratwurst, or tenderloin steak. Local singer-songwriters such as John Arthur Martinez and Mike Blakely enhance the Hill Country experience with their mellow acoustic tunes.
The other reliable local restaurants in town serve standard Tex-Mex fare. You can’t go wrong with either El Charro Restaurant (502 N. Hwy. 281, 830/868-7040, daily 6:30am-10pm, $8-15) or nearby El Agave (408 N. Hwy. 281, 830/868-0812, daily 6am-11pm, $8-13). Both feature classic cheesy and beefy Tex-Mex dishes such as enchiladas, tacos, quesadillas, and burritos.
For a pleasant rural experience, stay in a cabin at Country Cabins B&B (793 Lange Rd., 830/868-7447, www.countrycabinsbnb.com, $110-150). The guest rooms are rustic without being shabby and pleasant without being too quaint. If you’re looking for a simple, quiet place to stay on a working cattle ranch, this is a good spot.
Those looking for a reliable hotel experience have limited options, and the best among them is the Best Western Johnson City Inn (at the intersection of U.S. Hwys. 281 and 290, 830/868-4044, www.bestwestern.com, $135 d). The hotel offers free Internet access, a complimentary continental breakfast, and an outdoor swimming pool.
Information about accommodations, restaurants, and other visitor needs, including maps and brochures, is available at the Johnson City Chamber of Commerce (830/868-7684, www.lbjcountry.com).
From Austin, Johnson City is about an hour drive due west on U.S. Highway 290. Be on the lookout for the several-mile stretch of U.S. Highway 290 that joins U.S. Highway 281 North before continuing westward.
Visitors often turn a Hill Country excursion into an extra-long weekend, with day trips to one of the region’s scenic parks for hiking and biking or an afternoon cruising down a canyon-walled river in a canoe, kayak, or inner tube. Fans of outlaw country music—particularly Willie, Waylon, and the boys—are virtually required to make a pilgrimage to the tiny yet fabled Luckenbach.
Serving as a natural beacon for millennia is the enormous pink granite dome at the heart of Enchanted Rock State Natural Area (18 miles north of Fredericksburg at 16710 Ranch Rd. 965, 830/685-3636, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, $6 ages 13 and older). Although visitors have only been coming to the state park since 1984, people have been drawn by its surreal magnitude for more than 11,000 years. The rock itself is a massive granite exfoliation dome rising 1,825 feet above sea level and is one of the largest batholiths (an underground rock formation uncovered by erosion) in the country.
a steep hike in Enchanted Rock State Natural Area
Tonkawa Indians believed the rock wove enchanted spells, and Spanish explorers in the mid-1700s were equally intrigued by the natural structure. Legend has it Comanches held human sacrifices at its base, but this has been disputed. However, most anthropologists agree the Native Americans were fearful of the rock because they believed it to be haunted. These days, there are occasional New Age types who seek spiritual power from the iridescent reflections emanating from the sparkling granite on full-moon nights.
The rock’s intrigue continues to draw hundreds of visitors on weekends for hiking, rock climbing, backpacking, camping, and stargazing. In fact, the park often reaches parking capacity on weekends and closes early, sometimes by 10am. Call ahead to gauge accessibility.
The park contains a four-mile hiking trail that snakes through the granite formations, and a short yet steep trail leading to the top of the rock (those not on a regular workout regimen will likely have to take several breaks along the way). For adventurous (and non-claustrophobic) types, there are several small caves along the back of the dome—they’re worth exploring, even if it’s only for a short distance. Park amenities include an interpretive center, hike-in primitive sites, restrooms with showers, tent pads, picnic sites for day-use with tables and grills, and a group picnic area with a pavilion and restrooms. Vehicular camping is not permitted. Contact the park regarding camping fees and restrictions, which vary depending on the number of people and type of use.
If the word canyon brings to mind sheer cliffs and towering vertical rock formations, then perhaps the geological structures along the Frio and Sabinal Rivers should be referred to as “mini canyons.” Even though they’re not dramatic in size, these canyons remain beautiful wonders of nature. Since most Texas rivers traverse through hills and across plains, these are spectacular scenes in comparison—especially from the vantage point of a canoe or inner tube. And, true to its name, the Frio River (frio means cold in Spanish) is refreshingly brisk on a 100°F summer day. Visitors to this area relish the rural scenery and the abundant opportunities to camp in primitive areas or stay in rustic hillside cabins and lodges.
One of the most popular state parks in Texas is Garner State Park (eight miles north of Concan at 234 Ranch Rd. 1050, 830/232-6132, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, $6 ages 13 and older day use, $4 ages 13 and older staying overnight). Boasting 1,420 acres of natural beauty along the Frio River, the park attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors annually to swim, boat, tube, and fish in the chilly water; hike the park’s remarkable nature trails; dance at the nightly concession stand gatherings during the summer season; and even get in a few rounds at the nearby miniature golf course (lighted for nighttime playing). Most visitors camp at the primitive tent sites, although there are a limited number of high-demand cabins available for rent. The park is open year-round, seven days a week, but it’s busiest Memorial Day-Labor Day. Like Enchanted Rock, the popularity of this park occasionally results in parking capacity issues, forcing officials to close the gates by noon. Also contact the park regarding camping fees and restrictions, which vary depending on the number of people and type of use. The popular summertime dances can reach maximum parking capacity as well, so call ahead before putting your dancing boots on.
Northerners take note: Fall colors—particularly crimson reds and brilliant oranges—are virtually nonexistent in Texas, so don’t be surprised to hear about frenzied and overcrowded conditions to catch a rare glimpse of the leaves at Lost Maples State Natural Area (five miles north of Vanderpool at 37221 Ranch Rd. 187, 830/966-3413, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, Oct.-Nov. $6 ages 13 and older day use, $3 ages 13 and older staying overnight; Dec.-Sept. $5 ages 13 and older day use, $3 ages 13 and older staying overnight). The main-attraction maples add a welcome splash of color to the region’s normally uninspired fall palette of browns and yellows. They’re deemed “lost” since they grow hundreds of miles away from their native habitats, primarily due to the cooler and wetter conditions provided by the surrounding canyon walls. The trees hit their colorful peak in late October and early November, resulting in huge crowds and parking-capacity issues (limited to 250 vehicles), so visitors are advised to call ahead regarding accessibility, or, better yet, arrive on a weekday when it’s less full.
Even when the fall foliage isn’t taking center stage, visitors are attracted year-round to the park’s limestone canyons, cool spring-fed streams, and wooded trails. Since the beloved maples have a shallow root system, hikers are encouraged to stay on the trail to avoid damaging the trees. Park amenities include campsites with water and electricity, restrooms with showers, and primitive camping areas. Camping fees are $8 per night for primitive campsites, $18 per night for campsites with water and electric hookups.
This region of the state is dotted with small riverside towns filled with resort guests, retirees, and the descendants of the German settlers who migrated to this area in the 1800s. Concan is a tiny community (population 149) surrounded by gorgeous scenery in the form of tree-topped hills and cliffs overlooking the crystal-clear Frio River. The meandering drive along U.S. Highway 83 leading to and from the town is unlike any other in Texas, with the adjacent canyons beckoning drivers to pull over and explore their scenic overlooks. Perhaps the best place to experience this view is the one-of-a-kind Neal’s Lodges (approx. three miles southwest of Concan on Hwy. 127, 830/232-6118, www.nealslodges.com, cabins $80-350 daily for up to eight people; three-night minimum stay during summer months). Established in 1926, Neal’s offers 71 cabins, ranging from funky to fancy. The most basic options are one-room wooden structures with “evaporative coolers,” and the nicest of the bunch are upscale Hill Country lodges. In between are cinder-block-based structures overlooking the Frio and the “best swimming hole in Texas.” All but four of the cabins have kitchenettes. Other on-site amenities include a grocery store, restaurant, and laundry facilities. One of the biggest draws for Frio frolickers is the massive (83-foot-long) slide that allows guests to fly into the river. RV hookups and tent sites are also available, and Neal’s rents inner tubes for floating on the Frio, with a return stop on the property’s riverbank. Another reliable option is Frio River Cabins (6978 S. U.S. Hwy 83 in Concan, 830/232-5996, www.cabinsfrioriver.com, $99-$229). Guests have more than a dozen rustic cabin options, ranging from modest wooden structures to charming stone cottages. The main draw, however, is the cool river—visitors can while away an entire day with a beer in hand, basking in the refreshing water beneath outstretched cypress trees.
Just up the road on U.S. Highway 83 is Leakey (pronounced Lay-key), another small community (population 434) with riverside lodging and multigenerational Hill Country settlers. This is one of the closest towns to Garner State Park, so visitors often stay in a reliable Leakey cabin at night and visit the park during the day. One of the best lodging options in town is the Historic Leakey Inn (527 S. Hwy. 83, 830/232-5246, www.leakeyinn.com, $79-145). The three-acre property includes four rooms and 11 cabins along with free wireless Internet service, a lounge, a pool, a covered pavilion, barbecue grills, and picnic tables.
This charming Hill Country town (population 23,136) isn’t quite as quaint as it used to be, but it’s still well worth visiting—especially for the arts scene. It may not seem like a likely site for a cultural mecca, but artists, musicians, and writers are continually drawn to its rolling hills, cool breezes, and laid-back lifestyle.
Kerrville is best known for the annual Kerrville Folk Festival (830/257-3600, www.kerrville-music.com), held for 18 days in late May and early June. The fest draws more than 100 singer-songwriters specializing in folk, Americana, country, and roots rock from around the globe for nearly three weeks of scheduled concerts and improvisational jams on stages and around campfires in the hills. Several big-name artists played Kerrville early in their careers, including Willie Nelson, Lyle Lovett, Robert Earl Keen, Lucinda Williams, and Nancy Griffith. Other nationally known artists like Arlo Guthrie, Judy Collins, and Janis Ian make regular appearances at the festival. While many people attend just the evening main stage shows, the true soul of the festival is in the campgrounds, where artists and amateurs spend hours singing and strumming in guitar circles under the majestic oaks and starry sky.
One of the city’s proudest and most impressive attractions is the Museum of Western Art (1550 Bandera Hwy., 830/896-2553, www.museumofwesternart.com, Tues.-Sat. 10am-4pm, $7 adults, $5 students). The first thing visitors notice is the building itself—hearty timbers and rugged limestone frame the exterior, and life-size bronze statues occupy the grounds. Inside, the Wild West comes to life through artwork featuring cowboys, cowgirls, Native Americans, and frontier settlers. A 5,000-volume library of art and history draws students and scholars, and the museum features distinguished artists in permanent and rotating exhibits following the tradition of Remington and Russell in their celebration of the Old West.
Kerrville offers a wide range of accommodations, from guest ranches to river cabins to bed-and-breakfasts to hotels, motels, RV parks, and campgrounds. The Kerrville Convention and Visitors Bureau (2108 Sidney Baker St., 800/221-7958, www.kerrvilletexascvb.com, Mon.-Fri. 8:30am-5pm, Sat. 9am-3pm, Sun. 10am-3pm) offers a comprehensive list of lodging options. The friendly staff is also happy to lend a hand via phone or in person.
Luckenbach (population 3, for real) is perhaps best known as the subject of a classic 1977 Waylon Jennings tune called “Luckenbach, Texas (Back to the Basics of Love).” The song painted a mythical picture of a simple place to unwind “with Waylon and Willie and the boys.” Decades later, people are still making a pilgrimage to this tiny Hill Country town, located on Ranch Road 1376, 52 miles northwest of San Antonio and 75 miles west of Austin.
The thriving “downtown” contains three buildings—a blacksmith shop, a rustic tavern/general store, and a historic dance hall. During the summer months, you’ll find Texas troubadours gathered ’round beneath the outstretched arms of the enormous oak trees picking tunes on their banjos and guitars. Shows are held several times a month, with themes such as Wacky Waylon Wednesday and the Thursday Songwriters’ Circle. Tickets for these shows run anywhere between $10 and $25. For more information, visit www.luckenbachtexas.com or call 830/997-3224.
Finding the town can be a challenge, since people often steal the Luckenbach signs pointing the way. From Fredericksburg, head east on U.S. Highway 290 for about six miles to FM 1376, then head south for another four miles or so to Luckenbach. Take the second left (Luckenbach Road).