Austin skyline
the State Capitol in downtown Austin.
Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.
S Texas State Capitol: This architectural and cultural wonder was designed in true Texas style—15 feet taller than the U.S. Capitol (click here).
S Austin’s Bat Colony: Each summer night, more than a million Mexican free-tailed bats emerge from beneath the downtown Congress Avenue Bridge, much to the delight of the hundreds of people who eagerly gather to await their arrival (click here).
S Rainey Street: A collection of historic bungalows has been carefully preserved and retrofitted as homey lounges offering top-notch local craft brews and food (click here).
S Kreuz Market: This sacred spot for barbecue aficionados, serves traditional, hard-core stuff for serious connoisseurs—with no sauce, no utensils, and orders placed at the meat counter (click here).
S Magnolia Market: Drawing nearly 25,000 visitors a week, Waco’s Magnolia Market (popularized by HGTV’s Fixer Upper show) includes a retail store, garden area, and amazing bakery (click here).
S Waco Mammoth Site: Get a glimpse of the prehistoric creatures’ preserved-in-place bones, which date nearly 60,000 years old (click here).
S Fredericksburg: This Hill Country town is a favorite weekend destination for travelers interested in Texas’s German heritage, with dozens of restaurants and shops specializing in food, drink, and crafts from the Old Country (click here).
S Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park: Enjoy a fascinating perspective on the legendary Texan who became the nation’s 36th president (click here).
S Enchanted Rock State Natural Area: This enormous pink granite dome has been a natural beacon for more than 11,000 years. Native American tribes believed the rock wove enchanted spells, especially when its iridescent reflections radiated from the sparkling granite on full-moon nights (click here).
This slow-rolling, laid-back area of Central Texas is an ideal destination for a low-key getaway. Rapidly growing yet small-ish Austin feels like an endearing, earnest little sibling to urban Houston and Dallas. The Hill Country, meanwhile, is rustic yet civil enough to have commendable camping and lodging facilities for a nice weekend escape. Things have always been relatively pleasant in this area of the state, which attracted its first pioneers—mainly from Tennessee, Arkansas, and Missouri—for the same reasons Native Americans had inhabited the land for centuries: a temperate climate and abundant natural resources. By the late 1800s, Germans were arriving in droves. Word got out in Germany that Texas was a land of opportunity, and so many people jumped at said opportunity that significant portions of Central Texas had a majority German population in the late 19th century. Evidence of their settlement remains in the form of sturdy barns, homes, and dance halls constructed upon their arrival more than 125 years ago. Czech immigrants settled along the Brazos River near Waco, and their cultural legacy is found in the remarkable churches (and kolache pastries) scattered throughout small communities on the fertile Blackland Prairie.
Austin has traditionally attracted another portion of the population not always found in some rural parts of Texas: intellectuals. The University of Texas has been the main draw, but politicians and lawyers have proliferated ever since the city was named the state’s capital in 1846. For the next century, government entities and the university raised Austin’s profile by investing in infrastructure and academic projects (bridges, dams, laboratories, museums, stadiums) aimed at improving the city’s quality of life. By the late 20th century, the city became a hotbed for creative thinkers, movers, and shakers, including computer guru Michael Dell, earning the tech-heavy business climate the nickname Silicon Hills while remaining a mecca for musicians and artists.
Despite boasting a population of nearly 900,000, Austin still maintains a reputation as a college town due to the more than 50,000 students living there. University of Texas grads forced to flee Austin for big corporations and money in the Metroplex and Houston tend to have serious nostalgia for the “40 acres” (the UT campus), so they regularly return for football games or just to comment on how much the town has changed in the decades since they’ve been there. Austin isn’t the only college town in this part of the state, as the 50,000 Aggies in College Station will certainly remind you. Nearby San Marcos is also home to nearly 30,000 students at Texas State University.
Culturally, Central Texas is known for its distinctive heritage, honky-tonks, barbecue, and Dr Pepper (invented in Waco). Geographically, the land is marked by a convergence of the cotton-rich Blackland Prairie and the granite outcroppings of the Hill Country. Communities near the Highland Lakes west of Austin and in small towns like Fredericksburg and Bandera draw hordes of visitors every weekend to experience the region’s cooler temperatures, distinct history, and beautiful landscape.
You could spend a couple weeks in Central Texas and still have plenty of worthy places left to visit, but realistically you can experience everything the region has to offer in six or seven days. Plan to spend at least two or three days exploring Austin’s cultural scene. Devote an entire day or two to the area just north of downtown, home to the State Capitol, Texas history museum, LBJ Library and Museum, and Blanton Museum of Art. You’ll probably need two nights to take in the live music and club scene, and it’s worth devoting an afternoon to a Lockhart day trip just to experience Texas barbecue at its finest.
the LBJ Library and Museum on the University of Texas campus
Set aside another two or three days to drive through the Hill Country, with suggested overnight stops at a bed-and-breakfast in Fredericksburg or a dude ranch in Bandera. Fredericksburg’s German heritage offers a memorable getaway, and it’s downright sacrilegious to be in Texas without experiencing “The Cowboy Capital of the World,” as Bandera proudly bills itself.
Other worthy Central Texas side trips are Bryan-College Station for the George Bush Presidential Library and Museum and the whole Aggieland phenomena, San Marcos for floating on an inner tube down a river, and the Highland Lakes for more traditional water-based recreation.
During the past decade, Austin’s population has exploded, resulting in a mix of sprawl to outer suburbs and a gaggle of new high-rise downtown condos. Although the metro area exceeds one million people, Austin retains the feel of a small city, with most of its high-profile destinations clustered within a few miles in the downtown area. Fortunately, this allows visitors to explore much of the city by foot or bike from a central location.
For the 11th-largest city in the country, Austin has a minuscule downtown. Unlike other metropolises where dense blocks of historic structures and modern office buildings stretch for several miles before blending into residential areas, downtown Austin is roughly one square mile (a 14- by 14-block area). Regardless, this limited space packs a powerful cultural punch, bordered by the grand State Capitol to the north and mighty Colorado River to the south. In between are towering skyscrapers along Congress Avenue and dozens of amazing restaurants, nightclubs, theaters, and heritage attractions.
Once a desolate and sketchy stretch of road, South Congress Avenue is now one of Austin’s most popular destinations for trendy shops and restaurants. Immediately south of the Colorado River with picturesque views of the nearby State Capitol, this area of town (dubbed “SoCo” by some) offers a uniquely Austin twist on boutiques, eateries, and music venues. For a true local experience, book a room at the Austin Hotel and spend the day sampling inventive food and inspired fashion reflecting Austin’s distinctive nature.
During the past decade, East Austin (downtown, just east of I-35) has become a hipster haven, where trendy clubs have replaced traditional Tejano bars. Even the music venues are decidedly more indie and divey (though, to their credit, many have maintained the original decor and vibe of the previous tenants). Since hipsters tend to enjoy finely crafted beers and culinary delights, the options are endless for exploring and enjoying local culture mere minutes away from downtown.
With its 50,000 students, the University of Texas has traditionally dominated Austin’s identity; in fact, only recently has it ceased to be called a “college town.” UT still plays a major role in Austin (its high-level sports programs are the city’s version of professional teams), and the vast number of creative and entrepreneurial students and graduates ensures the campus area is continually stocked with innovative museums, performing arts venues, and cultural destinations.
Once you’ve arrived in Austin, the best place to load up on travel information is the Austin Visitor Center (602 E. 4th St., 512/478-0098, www.austintexas.org, Mon.-Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. 10am-5pm). Free maps and friendly staffers will help you find your way around town. The office also serves as the headquarters for two worthwhile tour services: Austin Duck Adventures (www.austinducks.com), conducted in an amphibious vehicle, and Austin Overtours (www.aotoursaustin.com), which take place in the comfort of a van. The corporate office with official information about exploring the city is the Austin Convention and Visitors Bureau (111 Congress Ave., Ste. 700, 512/474-5171, www.austintexas.org, Mon.-Fri. 8am-5pm).
The Capitol Visitors Center (112 E. 11th St., 512/305-8400, daily 9am-5pm) is adjacent to the capitol, housed in the restored 1856 General Land Office building, the oldest state office building in Texas. Located within the visitors center is the Texas Department of Transportation’s travel information counter (512/463-8586), with staffers offering free maps and literature on travel destinations throughout the state.
For an interesting and “witty” perspective on Austin and the Hill Country—including customized tours of the city’s museums, parks, pubs, galleries, and gardens—contact veteran Austinite and self-proclaimed “Texpert” Howie Richey’s Texpert Tours (512/383-8989, www.texperttours.com).
Not to be forgotten, the Waco Tourist Information Center (106 Texas Ranger Trail, 800/922-6386, www.wacoheartoftexas.com, Mon.-Sat. 8am-5pm, Sun. 10am-5pm) offers free maps, visitors guides, and information about Waco area attractions.
Most travelers arrive in Austin by car, unless they’re in town for one of the international music, film, or tech fests. Since it’s centrally located in Texas, the driving distance from other major cities isn’t too far. But since this is Texas, “far” is relative—three hours is “just down the road” here. Regardless, the wide freeways and average 85 mph traffic allow travelers from Houston to arrive in about 2.5 hours (via I-10 westward to Highway 71 into Austin) and Metroplex visitors to get there in just over 3 hours (a straight shot south on I-35). From San Antonio, it’s a quick 90-minute jaunt north on I-35.
Austin-Bergstrom International Airport (512/530-2242, www.austintexas.gov/airport) is surprisingly small and easily navigable. Eight miles southeast of downtown, the airport is noteworthy for its collection of exclusively local restaurants (where else can you eat a breakfast taco or brisket sandwich while waiting for a plane?) and constant stream of music by Texas artists. There’s even a stage with live music at the Hill Country Bar.
Although Austin is a progressive city, its public transportation systems are unimpressive, so you’re better off renting a car than relying on a bus or rail line. If you’re interested in local alternatives to Uber and Lyft, download the apps for Fasten and RideAustin. Otherwise, the city has three major cab companies: American Yellow Checker Cab (512/452-9999), Austin Cab (512/478-2222), and Lone Star Cab (512/836-4900). Fares run around $25 from the airport to downtown. Another option for getting to your destination is Super Shuttle (512/258-3826), which offers 24-hour shared-van service for around $20 per person.
Waco Regional Airport (254/750-8475, www.waco-texas.com/airport) is serviced by American Eagle. The airport received several upgrades after it became the main landing strip for President George W. Bush when he took refuge at his ranch in nearby Crawford. If you feel the need to fly to College Station, Easterwood Airport (979/775-9900), owned and operated by Texas A&M University, offers daily service via American Airlines.
Austin (population 931,830) is often referred to in Texas as a blue island in the middle of a vast red sea. This progressive and dynamic city stands apart from other parts of the state politically, culturally, and demographically. And Austinites wouldn’t have it any other way—they’re proud (smug, actually) of their comfortably sized, well-educated, fit, and socially conscious city.
Most people living in Austin are from someplace else—Dallas, Houston, California, the Midwest—which adds to the city’s eclectic feel. Although the massive influx of people since roughly 2005 has watered down some of this college town’s unassuming vibe, Austin still retains a laid-back quality that out-of-towners find charming and appealing, particularly during the city’s enormous music events (South by Southwest and Austin City Limits festivals), which annually draw bands and music fans from around the globe.
The Texas State Capitol (Congress Ave. and 11th St., 512/463-5495, www.tspb.state.tx.us, Mon.-Fri. 7am-10pm, Sat.-Sun. 9am-8pm, free guided tours Mon.-Fri. 8:30am-4:30pm, Sat. 9:30am-3:30pm, Sun. noon-3:30pm) presides over the city and state with a dignified grace. This magnificent 1888 Renaissance Revival edifice, with its captivating exterior of “sunset red” granite (actually a light pink hue), is nothing short of stunning. The capitol building truly represents Texas, from its legislative chambers to the tip of its dome—deliberately designed 15 feet taller than the U.S. Capitol. Visitors from around the world flock to Austin to experience this National Historic Landmark for its significant contribution to American history.
the State Capitol in downtown Austin
The capitol’s magnificent architectural features set it apart from its counterparts across the country. Notice the attention to detail, particularly inside the building. Upon close examination, themes and patterns emerge—stars, for instance—that tie all elements of the structure together, from floor tiles to staircases to window frames to door fixtures to chandeliers. Statues and paintings exude the magnitude of Texas history, and the sounds of busy legislative aides’ clacking heels and tour guides’ spirited shtick reverberate around the echoey halls. For an added bonus, order a takeout lunch from the cafeteria and enjoy it on the surrounding 22-acre grounds beneath the massive dome and its stately topper, Lady Liberty. Majestic oaks tower over the lushly manicured lawn, overlooking the bustling Congress Avenue scene from atop Texas’s version of Capitol Hill.
Not surprisingly, the University of Texas is enormous. With its 357-acre campus and student enrollment of approximately 50,000, UT is a major entity in Austin, rivaling the state government for highest profile. Most of the attention is well deserved, since the university, thanks in part to its many affluent and loyal alumni, offers top-notch academic, athletic, and cultural services for students and the community. The public especially benefits from the following campus entities, showcasing Texas’s finest cultural resources.
The Blanton Museum of Art (200 E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 512/471-5482, www.blantonmuseum.org, Tues.-Fri. 10am-5pm, Sat. 11am-5pm, Sun. 1pm-5pm, $9 adults, $7 seniors, $5 students ages 13-21, free on Thurs.) is one of the city’s highest-profile cultural attractions. The Blanton contains an impressive collection of art from Texas and around the world. The museum bills itself as the largest university art museum in the country, with important collections in Latin American art, American art, and European painting, prints, and drawings. It boasts more than 17,000 works of art, and its array of Latin American art is particularly notable, with works from more than 600 artists representing Mexico, the Caribbean, and South and Central America.
the Blanton Museum of Art
The Harry Ransom Humanities Research Center (21st and Guadalupe Sts., 512/471-8944, www.hrc.utexas.edu, Mon.-Wed. and Fri. 10am-5pm, Thurs. 10am-7pm, Sat.-Sun. noon-5pm, free) is an underappreciated gem in Austin and even the nation. Maybe it’s the name, which sounds more like an academic facility than a public gallery. Granted, most people impressed by the Ransom Center’s holdings are researchers, but there’s no denying the impressive magnitude of publicly displayed artifacts such as the world’s first photograph, a Gutenberg Bible, and a 1450 edition of Geoffrey Chaucer’s The Canterbury Tales. Other exceptionally rare holdings at the Ransom Center include the complete working libraries of James Joyce and e. e. cummings, and manuscripts from Ernest Hemingway, Walt Whitman, and Mark Twain. Check the website for the latest fascinating exhibit, which could be anything from an Edgar Allan Poe overview to an esteemed Egyptian photo collection.
The Lyndon Baines Johnson Library and Museum (2313 Red River St., 512/721-0200, www.lbjlibrary.org, daily 9am-5pm, $8 adults, $5 seniors and college students, $3 students ages 13-17) is dedicated to America’s 36th president, a Hill Country native and Texas icon. The facility occupies 14 acres on the University of Texas campus and offers four floors’ worth of memorabilia, manuscripts, artifacts, and nearly 45 million documents. Highlights of the recently renovated museum include an interactive Vietnam War exhibit where visitors learn about LBJ’s decision-making process and have unprecedented access to Johnson’s phone conversations. Popular holdovers include a replica of the Oval Office and East Room as they appeared during LBJ’s tenure, a view of the 1968 “Stretch” Lincoln automobile he used in Washington and Austin, and exhibits showcasing political cartoons and campaign items. Be sure to check out the exhibits dedicated to Johnson’s beloved wife, Lady Bird, including love letters from their courtship, archival video clips, and Carol Channing’s feathered headdress from her White House performance of Hello Dolly.
Across the street from the Blanton and two blocks north of the capitol, the Bullock Texas State History Museum (1800 N. Congress Ave., 512/936-8746, www.thestoryoftexas.com, Mon-Sat. 9am-6pm, Sun. noon-6pm, $13 adults, $11 seniors and college students, $9 students ages 4-17, free first Sun. of month) showcases the Lone Star State’s proud heritage. The museum welcomes visitors with a gargantuan star out front and features the state’s enormous history through its front doors. There’s a lot to absorb here, but it’s well organized and interpreted, leaving visitors with a satisfying crash course in Texas history. Exhibits are presented in chronological order from the ground floor up, starting with an exhibit showcasing the fascinating story of the Belle, a French ship that wrecked off the Texas Gulf Coast in the 1600s, as well as artifacts from early Native American tribes and Spanish conquistadors. Additional displays highlight everything from lassos and saddles of cowboys and vaqueros, to oil rigging equipment to World War II aircraft and NASA equipment. Interesting and entertaining videos pepper the museum’s exhibits, offering a vital visual component to the Texas mystique. The museum is also a destination for multimedia events, including the Spirit Theater, featuring sound and movement special effects, and Austin’s only IMAX theater, offering 3-D screenings.
the Bullock Texas State History Museum
Austin’s famous bat colony (Congress Avenue Bridge at the Colorado River, 512/416-5700) is a major source of civic pride (and guano). Each summer, more than a million Mexican free-tailed bats pour out nightly from beneath the downtown Congress Avenue Bridge in search of food, and scores of Austinites and visitors from around the world eagerly witness the spectacle. Part of the draw is the anticipation, but the greatest appeal is seeing an undulating mass of chirping mammals flow from their concrete catacomb into the deep blue sky of a pristine Austin evening.
Spanning 178 acres of rolling Texas prairie on the edge of the Hill Country, the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center (4801 LaCrosse Ave., 512/232-0100, www.wildflower.org, Tues.-Sat. 9am-5:30pm, Sun. noon-5:30pm, $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 youth ages 5-17) is well worth the 20-minute drive south of town. The Wildflower Center is a Central Texas treasure exploding with iridescent colors, especially in the spring. Native flowers, bushes, trees, and grasses exhibit the region’s natural beauty in numerous gardens and trails throughout a sprawling meadow, and an interpretive center and signage convey the passion Lady Bird (LBJ’s wife) had for Texas’s natural resources and educating people about the state’s abundant botanical blessings.
Austin’s decades-long attempts to open a full-fledged downtown art museum have been valiant, yet disappointing. In its place is a partnership known as Contemporary Austin, a community art museum with two locations—a downtown exhibition facility and a West Austin art school. The downtown location is known as Jones Center (700 Congress Ave., 512/453-5312, www.thecontemporaryaustin.org, Tues.-Sat. 11am-7pm, Sun. noon-5pm, $5 adults, $3 seniors and students, Tues. free). The Jones Center is housed in an inviting, light-bathed building, offering a welcoming venue for viewing local and traveling art exhibits. It’s a great place to pop in for an hour or two while downtown—check out a traveling exhibit (a recent show was dedicated to the art of Devo’s Mark Mothersbaugh) before grabbing a cocktail or bite to eat at one of Congress Avenue’s inviting establishments. The Contemporary’s art school is in West Austin’s Laguna Gloria, a gorgeous villa on Lake Austin featuring a 1916 Italianate mansion and lush grounds containing art exhibits and outdoor sculptures in a serene setting.
The colorful Mexic-Arte Museum (419 Congress Ave., 512/480-9373, www.mexic-artemuseum.org, Mon.-Thurs. 10am-6pm, Fri.-Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. noon-5pm, $5 adults, $4 seniors and students, $1 children under age 12) provides much-needed cultural diversity in Austin’s largely monochromatic downtown. More than a third of the city’s population is Hispanic, but you wouldn’t know it based on the Congress Avenue scene. The Mexic-Arte Museum, positioned on a prime piece of downtown real estate at Fourth and Congress, features traditional and contemporary Latin American painting and sculpture, most of it focusing on social aspects of Latino life. The museum also includes a back room dedicated to emerging local artists, who benefit from having a progressive venue for exhibiting their otherwise-overlooked talent.
Just east of I-35 is the George Washington Carver Museum and Cultural Center (1165 Angelina St., 512/974-4926, www.austintexas.gov, Mon.-Thurs. 10am-6pm, Fri. 10am-5pm, Sat. 10am-4pm, free), another much-needed venue dedicated to one of Austin’s underrepresented cultural groups. Education gets top billing here, evident in the museum’s impressive galleries. The permanent exhibits showcase the significant contributions Austin’s African American families have made to the city, including background information about the people behind the names of parks and streets. The Carver Museum also features a theater, dance studio, archive space, artist’s gallery, and a children’s exhibit about African American scientists and inventors.
Travel back in time on the slow-rolling, laid-back, completely relaxing trek through the scenic Hill Country northwest of Austin on the Hill Country Flyer (trains depart at 10am from 401 E. Whitestone Blvd. in Cedar Park, 512/477-8468, www.austinsteamtrain.org, $28-38). Spring is the best time to go for the added bonus of colorful wildflowers and ideal weather beckoning from the open windows of the surprisingly comfortable 1920s coach cars; otherwise, it’s worth forking over the extra $15 for a fancy air-conditioned 1950s lounge car in the brutally hot summer months. The gentle clickety-clack of the rails and occasional anecdotes from the seasoned volunteers make for a calming getaway on this peaceful train. After a nearly two-hour ride, the train stops in the sleepy Hill Country community of Burnet (pronounced BUR-nit), where you can grab lunch at the Trailblazer Grille, offering hearty and tasty cheeseburgers and sandwiches. You’ll be back on the train by 2pm and in Cedar Park by 4pm.
For the most part, the self-proclaimed “Live Music Capital of the World” lives up to its billing. On any given night you can catch a show ranging in style from blues to reggae to country to punk. Red River Street has a core of steady live music venues, Sixth Street retains its distinction as a mini Bourbon Street, the Warehouse District offers old folks in their 30s a place to gather without screaming their conversations to be heard, and East Austin is the hipster hot spot.
The beautiful historic Paramount Theatre (713 Congress Ave., 512/472-5470, www.austintheatre.org) is the city’s crown jewel for performing arts events. The magnificent 1915 venue is just four blocks south of the capitol and originally served as a vaudeville theater and variety house. It continues to stage a wide variety of shows—plays and musicals, comedians, dance shows, lectures, children’s programming, and classic films—under a faux sky ceiling and glamorous balconies. The Paramount also operates the adjacent State Theatre (719 Congress Ave.) as Stateside at the Paramount. The State is a remarkable art deco theater with 300 seats, allowing it to host more intimate shows (comedy, live music, film festivals).
the Paramount Theatre in downtown Austin
The university’s primary venue is the Bass Concert Hall (2350 Robert Dedman Dr., 512/471-2787, www.texasperformingarts.org), which brings an eclectic mix of internationally acclaimed performers to the UT campus. Pop legends, dance performances, chamber orchestras, alternative rockers, and world music superstars take the stage throughout the year to the benefit of students and residents. Superior acoustics and comfortable seating make this an especially inviting venue to experience a show.
The architecturally stunning Long Center for the Performing Arts (701 W. Riverside Dr., 512/457-5100, www.thelongcenter.org) is the city’s latest and greatest performing arts venue. The $77 million renovation project of the quirky 1959 Palmer Auditorium on the shores of Lady Bird Lake was 10 years in the making, but locals believe it’s been worth the wait. Home to the Austin Symphony Orchestra, Austin Lyric Opera, and Ballet Austin, the Long Center is truly a center stage for Austin’s fine arts. With multiple stages and an eclectic mix of performers, this venue will continue to represent Austin’s diverse cultural scene well into the future. Bonus: The lakeside veranda offers incredible views of the Austin skyline, an ideal photo op.
How often is the city’s coolest collection of laid-back bars and food trailers located near a corporate-minded convention center? It wasn’t necessarily planned that way in Austin, but a collection of historic bungalows in a formerly run-down neighborhood has been repurposed as the Rainey Street district (www.raineystbars.com). More than a dozen historic houses have been carefully preserved and retrofitted as homey lounges offering top-notch local craft brews and food.
You can’t go wrong with most of the options, so Rainey Street is an ideal place to plan a night of pub crawling and exploring. Just to provide some direction, however, there are several spots worth prioritizing due to their longevity and charm. A good place to start a triumphant tour is the funky and fun Container Bar (90 Rainey St., www.austincontainerbar.com), which sets the stage by welcoming patrons into its unique space made entirely of recycled shipping containers. Snag a spot on the spacious back patio, where you can grab a local pint and soak up the attractive scenery. Across the street is a traditional down-home house: Clive Bar (609 Davis St., 512/494-4120, www.clivebar.com). Candles, friendly bartenders, and strong cocktails make this a comfy spot to relax and enjoy a mellow evening. For those in search of an extensive (and extraordinary) local craft beer selection, head straight to Craft Pride (61 Rainey St., 512/428-5571, www.craftprideaustin.com). More than 20 breweries are represented in the 50-plus taps, and it’s hard to go wrong with any of them. Some of the favorite breweries among locals are Austin Beerworks, Real Ale, and Hops & Grain. Grab a draft (or can), sit on the dog-friendly patio, and save some room for Detroit-style pizza at the Via 313 food trailer out back. Speaking of tasty food, if cuisine is a priority, head directly to Banger’s Sausage House and Beer Garden (79 Rainey St., 512/386-1656, www.bangersaustin.com). As its name implies, this venue celebrates the best of Germany: fine beers and sausages. Order a fancy bratwurst on a pretzel bun with spicy mustard, pair it with a hoppy local beer (like Lost Gold IPA), and revel in the perfection.
Most of the hoppin’ bar activity on Sixth Street is happenin’ just west of the behemoth I-35 freeway, but . . . the scene isn’t for everyone. In fact, Sixth Street can be divided into three distinct areas—East of I-35, East of Congress Avenue, and West of Congress. Respectively, their vibes can be described as trendy, rowdy, and low-key.
East of I-35: During the past decade, hipsters have taken over a formerly mellow stretch of Hispanic nightclubs on East Sixth Street. Although Austin’s hipster scene can be slightly annoying (facial hair, hats, etc.), they’re still Austinites at heart (friendly, smart, etc.). These East Sixth Street bars are much more laid-back than the raucous shot bars just a half mile away, and they cater to a slightly older crowd. But make no mistake—people here are still dressed to impress, even if that means looking like one of the nearby homeless guys in “vintage” clothes and matted hair. A good starting point in this area is the welcoming Shangri-La (1016 E. 6th St., 512/524-4291, www.shangrilaaustin.com). Known for its spacious courtyard and impressive beer selection, Shangri-La is an ideal place to spend a cool spring evening or warm summer night. Just a few blocks away is the welcoming Liberty Bar (1618 E. 6th St., 512/600-4791, www.thelibertyaustin.com), with a spacious patio and plenty of local brews on tap. Be sure to grab some munchies on the patio at celebrity chef Paul Qui’s tantalizing trailer, East Side King (www.facebook.com/EastSideKingATX).
East of Congress: This is Austin’s party central. Shot bars, dance clubs, beer joints, and more shot bars are the featured attractions, and thousands of students and twentysomethings revel in the debauchery each weekend. The streets are closed to cars on most weekends, allowing revelers to stumble between bars and jabber with their brand-new BFFs. A word of warning: This area has “earned” the nickname Dirty Sixth, so don’t be surprised if you encounter some dubious characters amid the craziness.
One of the premier spots for soaking up the whole scene is the rooftop patio at Iron Cactus (606 Trinity St., 512/472-9240, www.ironcactus.com). Its spectacular top-shelf margaritas taste even better on the balcony on a perfect spring evening. For a genuine sense of the Sixth Street party atmosphere, check out Touché (417 E. 6th St., 512/472-9841), known for its laid-back vibe and hot bartenders. Literally. The specialty of the house is Flaming Dr Peppers, a Southern tradition involving shots of Amaretto and Everclear set ablaze, then dropped in a glass of beer. The kids claim it tastes exactly like a Dr Pepper soda. If you insist on doing a body shot, stagger to the zoos known as The Chuggin’ Monkey (219 E. 6th St., 512/476-5015, www.thechugginmonkey.com) and The Dizzy Rooster (306 E. 6th St., 512/236-1667, www.dizzyrooster.com). Those looking for a comparatively mellower Sixth Street venue are still in luck. Several bars cater to Austin’s laid-back alternative clientele, content to kick back on a patio with tequila on the rocks or a pale ale while the jukebox cranks out Johnny Cash and Interpol. Drawing an eclectic crowd is Casino el Camino (517 E. 6th St., 512/469-9330, www.casinoelcamino.net). Don’t be too frightened by the graphic scenes painted on the wall or the dungeon decor—even goths like to occasionally whoop it up. Be sure to sample one of Casino’s enormous and immensely flavorful burgers (split one with a pal and expect a 20-minute wait) while vintage Clash tunes from the jukebox drown out a Stanley Kubrick movie. Just down the street is one of the newer entries to the mix, a welcome alternative to the craziness known as Easy Tiger (709 E. 6th St., 512/614-4972, www.easytigeraustin.com). A traditional bakery scene immediately greets guests, where they can buy a fresh-baked pretzel, baguette, or pastry. Head downstairs for an impressive selection of local and national craft brews on tap, and enjoy them on the back patio while playing table tennis alongside Waller Creek.
West of Congress: Like the nearby Warehouse District, this (much smaller) area draws an older crowd that prefers a neat pour of Scotch over a dollar shot of schnapps. Twenty years ago this depressing part of downtown was filled with used car lots and auto repair shops; now it’s in the shadow of condo towers and company headquarters. One of the more inviting taverns on the street is J. Black’s Feel Good Kitchen and Lounge (710 W. 6th St., 512/433-6954, www.jblacks.com). Beer lovers will froth over the amazing ale options, and the pub grub—particularly the pizza—is way above average. Venture across the street for the lively singles scene at Concrete Cowboy (719 W. 6th St., 512/987-0860, www.concretecowboybar.com). The scene is more bro-concrete/urban than bro-cowboy, so it can get pretty loud and crazy, but you can always escape to the rooftop patio. Just down the street is the hip-yet-relaxed Key Bar (617 W. 6th St., 512/236-9389, www.keybaraustin.com), located in a former locksmith shop. The outdoor lounge is a cool place to enjoy a cold beer or a signature cocktail with a juice Popsicle garnish.
Compared to Sixth Street, the Warehouse District is downright civil. You won’t find too many UT coeds at these bars, but that doesn’t mean it’s a subdued scene. Instead of angry punk bands, you’ll often hear jazz trios. Ladies order Cosmopolitans rather than Mind Erasers. Food options include tapas as opposed to hot dogs from a cart. And if your fourth glass of cabernet makes your feet restless, there are several nearby clubs with crafty DJs playing hoppin’ dance music. Besides, Sixth Street is a mere 20-minute walk away if you really want to reconnect with your inner 21-year-old.
Catch some live music and spot the scenesters at Cedar Street Courtyard (208 W. 4th St., 512/495-9669, www.cedarstreetaustin.com). One of the district’s first successful establishments, Cedar Street features a sunken courtyard with live music and some of the city’s stiffest drinks. Martinis are the specialty here, and the friendly bartenders will gladly help you find your favorite blend. The vibe is laid-back and welcoming at The Ginger Man (301 Lavaca St., 512/473-8801, www.gingermanpub.com). It features an almost-overwhelming beer selection, with chalkboards above the bar announcing new arrivals, featured selections, and specials among the dozens of brews on tap and in bottles. If it’s warm, order a Texas wheat beer and enjoy it in the outdoor beer garden. If it’s cold, have a stout inside at the welcoming bar or in one of the comfy nooks and crannies.
Austin doesn’t have a specific downtown area exclusively devoted to gay bars, but several are located in the Warehouse District. One of the city’s stalwarts is Oilcan Harry’s (211 W. 4th St., 512/320-8823, www.oilcanharrys.com), known for its dance scene and bartenders. Though the crowd here is mostly gay, straight folks are welcome. The other venerable gay venue in town is right next door. Rain on 4th (217 W. 4th St., 512/494-1150, www.rainon4th.com) features strong drinks and a lively dance floor.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Musicians have been drawn to Austin for decades to take advantage of the city’s abundant stages, open-minded atmosphere, and (formerly) cheap rent. Several notable artists persevered beyond free meals and tip jar paychecks, including Janis Joplin and Stevie Ray Vaughan, and, more recently, acts such as Spoon and Gary Clark Jr. have seen their names ascend from the bottoms of flyers to the tops of marquees. Drop by any of the 100-plus venues in town that host live music, and you just might be lucky enough to discover the next White Denim or Black Angels.
Now that the hipsters have taken over East Austin from the traditional Tejano bars, the music venues are decidedly more indie and divey (though, to their credit, many have maintained the original decor and vibe of the previous tenants). One of the best examples of this assimilation is the historic Scoot Inn (1308 E. 4th St., 512/478-6200, www.scootinnaustin.com). It’s still a bit rough around the edges, but it feels lived-in, an ideal atmosphere for watching a band play on the outdoor stage while sipping on a can of PBR or a local craft beer. Bands range from up-and-coming indie acts to occasional touring shows. The coolest spot to catch a show, however, is the similarly comfy White Horse Tavern (500 Comal St., 512/553-6756, www.thewhitehorseaustin.com). The two best words to describe the vibe here are “honky-tonk” and “hipster,” both in the most accommodating way. Cowboy and porkpie hats coexist easily at the White Horse, and everyone can agree on the music (Americana) and beer (Lone Star). One of the newer arrivals to East Austin’s live music scene is an old stalwart. The relocated and renowned punk club Emo’s (2015 E. Riverside Dr., 512/477-3667, www.emosaustin.com) moved to East Austin from its iconic Red River Street location, much to the dismay of many locals. The club is slowly gaining its footing in the new location, and people are making the effort to attend punk and indie shows in the cavernous room, which stages local and touring bands of the fast and loud variety.
the White Horse Tavern in East Austin
Red River Street, at the eastern edge of the Sixth Street district, represents the lifeblood of Austin’s live music scene. Once the territory of crack dealers and vagabonds, this four-block stretch is now the vibrant core of the city’s rock ’n’ roll culture. Anchoring the strip is Stubb’s Bar-B-Q (801 Red River St., 512/480-8341, www.stubbsaustin.com), which hosts the city’s best road shows on a moderately sized (1,800 capacity) outdoor amphitheater and accommodates smaller acts on an indoor stage. As the name implies, Stubb’s also serves some fine smoked meats, but the bands bring the heat most nights. Artists ranging from Wilco and Willie Nelson to Snoop Dogg and Vampire Weekend grace the main stage, while the more intimate inside stage has hosted local stalwarts such as The Gourds and The Derailers. Incidentally, Stubb’s holds perhaps the most memorable New Year’s Eve bash in town. Nearby Mohawk (912 Red River St., www.mohawkaustin.com) features indie rock bands from Austin and afar and draws one of the trendiest crowds in Capital City. The multi-terraced outdoor patios offer cool views of downtown and quiet places to drink hipster-approved cans of cheap beer.
For a true Austin hipster experience, head straight to Cheer Up Charlie’s (900 Red River St., 512/431-2133, www.cheerupcharlies.com), a welcoming spot with an amazing outdoor stage/patio for live indie rock, lounging, dancing, and smoking trendy cigarettes. The locally brewed kombucha and draft beer are also big hits here. Just down the street are a few down ’n’ dirty establishments offering local cowpunk and alternative bands along with cheap beer specials most nights of the week. The best of the bunch are Beerland (711 Red River St., 512/479-7625, www.beerlandtexas.com) and Sidewinder (715 Red River St., 512/474-1084, www.thesidewinderaustin.com).
Although it’s only been open since 2011, ACL Live at the Moody Theater (310 W. Willie Nelson Blvd., 512/225-7999, www.acl-live.com/venue) has become the city’s favorite place to see a show. The venue is impeccable, with its professionally designed acoustics and seating to accommodate the long-running namesake music show on PBS. From legendary blues acts to modern rock bands to stand-up comedy and acoustic showcases, this is the best place in town to experience the “Live Music Capital of the World.” An added bonus: The Willie Nelson statue outside the venue (officially dedicated at 4:20pm on April 20, 2012) is an ideal place to snap a selfie. Just around the corner is Lucky Lounge (209 W. 5th St., 512/479-7700, www.theluckylounge.com), a live music/singles scene combo that actually works. The music kicks off fairly early—around 8pm most nights—and the schmoozing picks up afterward.
There are still pockets remaining of old Sixth Street—rock ’n’ roll venues and comfy dive bars—among the dance clubs, and they’re worth checking out for the quality of live music being played most nights. One of the city’s most notable venues is “Austin’s Home of the Blues,” Antone’s (305 E. 5th St., 512/814-0361, www.antones.net). Although it’s changed locations a few times, Antone’s has been a fixture on the music scene for nearly three decades, staging legendary artists like B. B. King along with local blues and roots rock acts such as Pinetop Perkins and Guy Forsyth. Stevie Ray Vaughan got his start here, and people still line up to catch the latest homegrown and national acts rock the big stage. Consistently reliable is The Parish (214 E. 6th St., 512/473-8381, www.theparishaustin.com), featuring local and touring indie rock acts. Spoon spent a lot of time here on its rise up the indie-rock ladder, and occasional techno or hip-hop shows appear on the schedule. A couple blocks east is longtime reggae club Flamingo Cantina (515 E. 6th St., 512/494-9336, www.flamingocantina.com). The Flamingo is a reliable source for local and national reggae and ska bands as well as cold Red Stripe beer and a lingering haze of green smoke.
Antone’s is Austin’s “Home of the Blues.”
Although this area covers a lot of ground geographically, the soul of this part of town and, consequently, the live music scene, ties the entire South Austin community together. This is perhaps best represented at The Continental Club (1315 S. Congress Ave., 512/441-2444, www.continentalclub.com), the venerable South Congress venue that once hosted breezy artists like Glenn Miller in the 1950s. Now the tiny stage is a regular spot for local and national touring acts—most specializing in roots rock, bluegrass, rockabilly, and country. Celebrity sightings are fairly common here, and the happy hours are a great way to experience authentic Austin. Another local favorite is The Saxon Pub (1320 S. Lamar Blvd., 512/448-2552, www.thesaxonpub.com), featuring blues, singer-songwriters, and Americana. The venue itself isn’t remarkable, with its limited seating and small stage, but the sound quality is excellent, and the artists are always far better than you’d expect to hear in a neighborhood bar. If you’re looking for a true Texas-style honky-tonk, you absolutely have to check out the Broken Spoke (3201 S. Lamar Blvd., 512/442-6189, www.brokenspokeaustintx.net). Although this once-on-the-outskirts venue is now (literally) surrounded by a new condo, once you’re inside, this is as real as it gets—the music, dancing, and surrounding scenery are purely Texas. On weekend nights, the dance floor is crowded with crisp-jeaned ranchers and tattooed hipsters, all two-steppin’ in a smoothly rotating counterclockwise pattern. Legends who’ve graced this low-ceilinged, no-frills establishment during its prominent past include Willie Nelson, Bob Wills, Ernest Tubb, and George Strait, but these days, visitors and locals make a point of seeing local favorites like The Derailers and Gary P. Nunn.
The classic “dinner and a movie” date received a major upgrade when the Alamo Drafthouse (www.drafthouse.com) opened in 1997. There are now six Austin locations (listed below) and dozens across the country, from LA to NYC. The concept is genius in its simplicity: offer restaurant-quality food—and alcohol—to movie patrons. Each alternate aisle of seats is replaced with narrow tables, allowing waiters to take orders and deftly navigate the theater without disturbing viewers. Menu items include the “Royale with Cheese” burger and “Poultrygeist” pizza, and the cold draft beer, cocktails, and fine wines offer an ideal accompaniment. The food is often paired with the movie (spaghetti Westerns, or re-creating meals from Big Night and Like Water for Chocolate), and there are clever promotions galore—screening bad ’80s movies with appearances by the starring has-been actors, a karaoke-style movie scene reenactment contest called “videoke,” sing-alongs, open screen nights, and rolling road shows. Film festivals are de rigueur, with several hosted by notable industry types such as director Quentin Tarantino and Austin-based film critic Harry Knowles. If all that weren’t enough, Entertainment Weekly named the Alamo the “best theater in America.” The Alamo’s tremendous popularity is a proud Austin success story, and it allowed the franchise to expand from its original location in the Warehouse District to six theaters throughout the city and several others across Texas. The Austin locations are Ritz/Downtown (320 E. 6th St.), South Lamar (1120 S. Lamar Blvd., 512/476-1320), Village (2700 W. Anderson Ln., 512/476-1320), Slaughter Lane (5701 W. Slaughter Ln., 512/861-7060), Mueller (1911 Aldrich St. Suite 120, 512/572-1425), and Lakeline (14028 N. U.S. Hwy. 183, Bldg. F, 512/861-7070).
What started as a small collection of bands and industry reps in a single downtown hotel has expanded to one of the largest multimedia music festivals in the country (perhaps even the world). Each March, thousands of musicians and their associated crowds—critics, businesspeople, groupies—flock to Austin for South by Southwest (512/467-7979, www.sxsw.com) for ideal weather, ice-cold beer, barbecue and Tex-Mex, and every kind of music under the warm sun. During this 10-day stretch, Austin becomes the epicenter of the music industry, complete with international media coverage, splashy promotional events, and enough black leather to make locals flee in horror. Although the concept is to expose bands and sign contracts for up-and-coming artists (acts getting their first major buzz at the festival include the White Stripes, John Mayer, Alabama Shakes, and, um, Hanson), SXSW evolved over the years. By the early 2010s, it became an enormous showcase, regularly hosting big names and reunion gigs (Lady Gaga, Kanye West, Pat Benatar, The Pretenders, Big Star) for the publicity factor among the collaborated industry. Fortunately, the festival has scaled back in recent years to focus on its original mission of showcasing new artists. Back in the day, visitors and locals could buy an all-access wristband for about $50. Now you need to fork over nearly $1,000 for an unrestricted platinum badge. The good news is, there are still hundreds of fun, worthwhile, and free music options during SXSW week for the common folk, mostly daytime parties featuring lesser-known and some well-known bands who’ll play anywhere possible—a back alley, street corner, or front lawn—just to maximize exposure. SXSW organizers also work with the city to stage free shows at the downtown park Auditorium Shores, where past notables include Spoon, Public Enemy, and Cheap Trick.
This is one of the country’s hottest festivals—literally and figuratively. Often scheduled annually in the inferno of Austin’s September/October, Austin City Limits Music Festival (www.aclfest.com) features searing temperatures and equally scorching bands. As of 2012, the fest has expanded to two weekends, allowing locals and out-of-towners some flexibility (and a chance to find out which acts have the “can’t-miss” factor after the first weekend). Presented by the organizers of the long-running PBS show of the same name, ACL Fest is one of those no-brainers that should have been in existence since the show’s inception in 1975. Alas, the festival premiered in 2002, and has since become a premier event among music fans of all types. Artists range from American rock legends like Bob Dylan, Tom Petty, and The Eagles to big names such as Radiohead, Kanye West, Wilco, and Arcade Fire to up-and-comers (came-and-wenters?) like MGMT, Franz Ferdinand, and Bloc Party. Over the years, fest organizers have learned some valuable lessons about hosting a successful event by offering the following amenities: dozens of exclusively local food vendors, shade and misting tents, free water stations, and an Austin Kiddie Limits stage. Despite the sweltering conditions, nearly 70,000 fans quickly snap up tickets each year.
Most years, the rodeo takes place at the same time as South by Southwest (mid-March). The front page of the newspaper will often feature a photo of a tattooed hipster adjacent to an article about the champion steer. In some ways, it’s an apt representation of Austin—the progressive music scene and the old-fashioned livestock show. Even the rockers can enjoy The Star of Texas Fair and Rodeo (512/919-3000, www.rodeoaustin.com), however, with its roping and barrel racing competitions, carnival rides, Texas food vendors, and live music. The rodeo attracts huge crowds from across the state each year, drawn by the excitement of witnessing a bull riding competition—it’s far more intense in person than on TV—and by the quality musicians. Past performers include diverse acts such as Merle Haggard, Nelly, Maroon 5, and Lady Antebellum.
Once home to numerous slacker-y music stores and bookstores, Austin now has trendy clothing boutiques featured on national TV shows and fashion magazines. Several new upscale malls have also popped up recently, but they haven’t displaced too many distinctive local shops—vinyl records, obscure books, and custom-made boots are still available in not-so-trendy places off the beaten path.
The über-trendy stretch of South Congress Avenue just south of the Colorado River used to be so desolate, you could easily spot the undercover cops seeking out drug dealers and prostitutes. The area transformed mightily during the 1990s, most notably when a dot-com start-up replaced an aging adult theater. Other new businesses followed suit, and the streetscape soon was revitalized with cafés, galleries, and trendy clothing stores. There were marketing efforts to brand the strip with the cute moniker “SoCo,” but you won’t hear many locals referring to it by that name.
Several of the strip’s anchors are antiques and clothing shops. They include the long-standing Lucy in Disguise (1506 S. Congress Ave., 512/444-2002, www.lucyindisguise.com), the quintessential thrift store featuring the city’s coolest vintage threads and accessories along with bodacious costume rentals, and Uncommon Objects (1512 S. Congress Ave., 512/442-4000, www.uncommonobjects.com), a fascinating expanse of antiques, curios, folk art, and, well, uncommon objects from around the world. Incidentally, the stock here is always changing since the store showcases many different vendors offering rotating collections of vintage and modern knickknacks.
Uncommon Objects on South Congress Avenue
Clothing-wise, South Congress is a haven for trendy boutiques. Among the most popular is a relative newcomer, Stag (1423 S. Congress Ave., 512/373-7824, www.stagaustin.com). As its name implies, Stag offers rugged and hearty men’s clothing for those who want to appear ready for a hunting adventure at a moment’s notice. From stylish work boots to Americana shirts and heavyweight denim, Stag is a tougher breed than most of the other South Congress boutiques. Far more feminine is By George (1400 S. Congress Ave., 512/441-8600, www.bygeorgeaustin.com), a vibrant shop known for its laid-back vibe, popular designers (Current-Elliot, Madison Marcus), playful accessories, and fairly pricey clothes. Customers are inevitably won over, however, when the staff offers them a beer as they peruse the clothing and jewelry. Nearby, Maya Star (1508 S. Congress Ave., 512/912-1475, www.mayastar.com) has developed a strong reputation for its selection of affordable designer clothing, jewelry, and impeccable customer service. Farther down the road, Creatures Boutique (1206 S. Congress Ave., 512/707-2500, www.creaturesboutique.com) has a hipster edge, particularly with its eclectic selection of purses and shoes.
Though certainly not as trendy, one of the best apparel shops on the entire South Congress strip is Allens Boots (1522 S. Congress Ave., 512/447-1413, www.allensboots.com), a refreshingly low-key establishment among the much-hyped boutiques. Allens’ knowledgeable employees help customers find a perfectly fitting boot and explain the differences among styles and brands. In addition to the extensive selection of boots, Allens offers a broad range of shirts, hats, jeans, and belts.
Austin’s upscale mall, The Domain (11410 Century Oaks Ter., 512/873-8099) is considered a godsend by those in search of big-city shopping options and a threat by those intimidated by big cities. The Domain includes more than 60 stores in a sprawling indoor/outdoor configuration in the rapidly growing northern reaches of the city. There’s no denying this shopping center brings a slice of Dallas to Central Texas, but despite the protests of the NIMBY crowd, it has yet to infect Austin with a serious case of City Slickeritis. Appropriately enough, The Domain is anchored by Dallas-born Neiman Marcus, known for its quality merchandise and name-brand products—especially women’s shoes—with knowledgeable and helpful customer service. Other high-end retailers include Tiffany & Co. and Calypso. Since Austin is a computer-savvy town, one of The Domain’s most popular establishments is the Apple Store, a mecca for gadget geeks and computer connoisseurs who appreciate the latest Apple innovations and, most important, want a place to try them personally and gush over them with fellow Mac users.
It’s hard to believe this vibrant and busy intersection was once a collection of used car lots. Now the vehicles bustling around these streets are hybrids, convertibles, and scooters en route to the city’s coolest large-scale stores. In fact, this intersection is a microcosm of Austin’s prototypical population—literate, organic, outdoorsy music fans.
The veteran of the group is Waterloo Records (600 N. Lamar Blvd., 512/474-2500, www.waterloorecords.com), regularly voted one of the country’s top music stores. Waterloo is a music lover’s paradise, with tens of thousands of CDs and hundreds of vinyl albums catering to every style, refreshingly categorized in alphabetical order (as opposed to genre). Waterloo hosts in-store appearances by big-name artists on a small stage and is one of the few remaining places where music fans can hang out in person with like-minded souls (and employees) to share their latest musical discoveries.
Across the street is Book People (603 N. Lamar Blvd., 512/472-5050, www.bookpeople.com), another nationally recognized independent retailer where customers often find themselves spending an entire afternoon. Billing itself as the largest bookstore in Texas, Book People offers an impressive range of literary works and is a destination for literary types across the state, especially for readings and appearances by world-renowned authors and politicians.
Next door, the gigantic REI (601 N. Lamar Blvd., 512/482-3357, www.rei.com) provides the city’s weekend warriors with enough outdoor gear to set up an impressive base camp. Across the street is Whole Foods Market’s (512 N. Lamar Blvd., 512/476-1206, www.wholefoodsmarket.com) impressive world headquarters and flagship grocery store. At 80,000 square feet, it’s a spectacle to behold—stunning displays of colorful produce and delectable foods blend with plentiful islands offering freshly prepared items (salads, seafood, cheese, pastries, coffee) alongside aisles of organic and health food items. Whole Foods draws a large crowd of in-store and to-go diners, and the bustling scene and almost overwhelming abundance of edible options attract foodies and visitors from across the country.
You’re more likely to see flip-flops and ironic T-shirts on Austinites than cowboy hats and big belt buckles, but the city still boasts several big ol’ Western shops that remind visitors they’re deep in the heart of Texas.
Two of the city’s most popular Western wear stores are chains, but considering the products involved are cowboy related, these spots don’t carry the stigma of big-box retailers. Boot Barn (5451 N. IH-35, 512/582-2521, www.bootbarn.com) is an enormous store brimming with boots, hats, shirts, belts, jeans, and anything else you’d ever need to make your ride on a mechanical bull appear more authentic. This is perhaps the best place in town for aspiring cowgirls to stock their wardrobe, since many similar stores cater more to men’s wear. If you’re hankerin’ for a pair of affordable boots and jeans, look no further than Cavender’s Boot City (8809 Burnet Rd., 512/451-7474, www.cavenders.com), which features quality low-priced boots and apparel for cowboys, cowgirls, and cowkids.
Despite reaching metropolitan status, Austin does not have a major-level professional sports franchise, in large part because the University of Texas dominates many aspects of the city, including sporting events. Fortunately, the boys and girls in burnt orange are perennial contenders for national titles in all sports (they’ve won nearly 50 championship trophies collectively), so the quality of action on the field is first-rate. Recreation-wise, Austin prides itself on its large amount of natural green space, and residents take full advantage of the city’s hike and bike trails and waterways to keep fit and relax.
College football is a religion in Texas, and the University of Texas’s Royal Memorial Stadium is one of the houses of the holy. As soon as they can walk, little Texans dream of playing there, and anyone who’s seen the Longhorns take the field can see why. The atmosphere is exhilarating, especially at late-season games against nationally ranked division rivals, and there’s a good chance that many of the enormous players in burnt orange will soon be playing in the NFL. The football program has a tradition of excellence, with four national championships, most recently in 2005, and previously in 1963, 1969, and 1970 under legendary coach Darrell Royal. The Horns’ most-hyped game each year is against the University of Oklahoma (held in the neutral/central site of Dallas), an intense confrontation of strong, scrappy students battling for a year’s worth of bragging rights.
a University of Texas Longhorns football game
No sport will displace football at the top of the food chain in Austin, but the UT men’s basketball team is always making a valiant effort to get noticed. They’ve had some success, though the past few years have shown rather lean numbers in the win column. The team has produced several highly touted NBA recruits, including Kevin Durant and LaMarcus Aldridge, and has made appearances in the NCAA tournament during the past decade. Although the team’s home, the Frank Erwin Center, doesn’t get as rollicking as Memorial Stadium, students and residents still fill the seats and provide the energy found in college basketball arenas in other parts of the country.
Also a formidable force on the Erwin Center court is the women’s basketball team, still occasionally referred to as the Lady Longhorns. A longtime powerhouse in women’s collegiate basketball, these Longhorns include some of the best athletes in the sport.
UT’s baseball program doesn’t get the exposure and recognition it deserves. Despite taking a backseat to the football and basketball programs, baseball at the university has a long tradition of fielding championship teams. In fact, the program is the winningest in college baseball history and has won more college world series titles than any other school. Many of the players, most notably Roger Clemens, have gone on to successful careers in Major League Baseball. Longtime coach Cliff Gustafson (1968-1996) led the team to more than a dozen college world series appearances, and recently retired coach Augie Garrido was at the helm for two national championships before Tulane University’s David Pierce was hired in 2016. The Horns’ home base, Disch-Falk Field, received a much-needed upgrade, although the sight of artificial turf and sound of aluminum bats still makes baseball purists slightly cringe.
For those who need to see a major sporting event, the big-time professional franchises are just down the road (a three-hour drive in Texas terms). San Antonio, Dallas, and Houston all have top-tier teams, and most Austinites pick and choose their sports allegiances based on their regional backgrounds or history with a franchise and its fan base.
The closest Austin gets to professional sports is the Round Rock Express (Dell Diamond, 3400 E. Palm Valley Blvd., 512/255-2255, www.roundrockexpress.com), a minor league affiliate of the Texas Rangers. Since the team is at the AAA classification (just a step below the major leagues), fans are treated to quality baseball with plenty of impressive hustle from burgeoning stars. Dell Diamond is a charming and comfy place to watch a game, and even nonfanatics can enjoy the pleasant atmosphere and amusing high jinks of minor league games (kids running the base paths, fans dancing on the dugout, various races on the field). Also just a step below the majors are the Texas Stars (512/467-8277, www.texasstars.com), the minor league outfit for the Dallas Stars hockey team. The Stars made an immediate impact upon joining the American Hockey League, when they played in the Calder Cup Finals. Games are played in the suburban Cedar Park Center. Locals are also warming up to the Austin Toros (512/236-8333, www.austindleague.nba.com), the NBA Development League minor league team affiliated with the San Antonio Spurs. The Toros play at the Cedar Park Center November-April.
Long considered Austin’s crown jewel, Barton Springs Pool (2201 Barton Springs Rd., 512/476-9044, www.austintexas.gov, daily 5am-10pm, $1-3) in Zilker Metropolitan Park is the city’s ultimate recreational experience. A source of cool refreshment for nearly a century, the 1,000-foot-long pool is constantly replenished by revitalizing 68°F spring water, a necessary remedy for Austin’s triple-digit summer temperatures. The remainder of 350-acre Zilker Park is a sprawling urban oasis, with soccer fields, a hillside theater, sand volleyball courts, a massive playscape, a disc golf course, and picnic sites. Kids of all ages love the Zilker Zephyr (512/478-8286, $3 adults, $2 children), a miniature train that chugs around on several miles of track along the river and through the park. Other family-friendly activities include the serene and stunning Zilker Botanical Gardens, featuring the otherworldly Taniguchi Oriental Garden, and the Austin Nature and Science Center, a wonderful destination for children, offering glimpses at Texas wildlife (bobcats, owls, reptiles, raccoons), a dinosaur digging pit, science exhibits, and nature trails.
About a mile east as the grackle flies is Town Lake Metropolitan Park, spanning the shores of the downtown portion of the Colorado River formerly known as Town Lake (now Lady Bird Lake in honor of LBJ’s wife, Lady Bird Johnson). The park contains an extremely popular 10-mile shoreline trail and fields for baseball, football, soccer/rugby, and volleyball. The section of the park stretching east of I-35 is a favorite spot for gatherings and events at Fiesta Gardens and Festival Beach. The parkland on the south side of Lady Bird Lake is known as Auditorium Shores, where numerous concerts are staged throughout the year (most are free public events). Standing in the shadows of the large stage erected for these shows is a statue of Austin’s beloved guitarist Stevie Ray Vaughan, who died in a tragic 1990 helicopter accident. Fans pay homage to the legendary bluesman by leaving flowers and memorabilia at the base of the statue.
One of the city’s overlooked recreational gems is Emma Long Metropolitan Park (1600 City Park Rd., 512/346-1831, www.ci.austin.tx.us/parks/emmalong, daily 7am-10pm, $5-10). Named for an early member of the Austin City Council, the park is a massive expanse of natural Hill Country beauty, highlighted by a 350-foot-long sandy beach on the north bank of the Colorado River. Visitors bask in the sun or play beach volleyball while ski boats and Jet Skis zoom by. Emma Long is one of the few parks offering a somewhat cool respite on a scorching summer day thanks to the breeze from the water’s surface and plentiful shade provided by the row of cypress trees along the riverbank. Incidentally, you’ll find some of the tastiest burgers in town along with a full bar and live music on weekends at the adjacent Ski Shores Cafe (2905 Pearce Rd., 512/394-7511, www.skishoresaustin.com).
This is the most popular place for Austinites to exercise and flirt in an outdoor setting. The 10-mile-long crunchy and well-worn path offers an ideal representation of the city’s physically fit population—healthy hikers, buff bikers, and strolling slackers. Besides being a great place to tone muscles and get in some good cardio exercise, the hike and bike trail is a healthy place to meet people and experience a hot and sweaty date. Recreationists can also get a light workout and enjoy Lady Bird Lake from its serene surface by putting a paddle to the water and soaking up the surrounding greenery, expanding skyline, and clear blue sky. Rent a canoe or kayak at Zilker Park Boat Rentals (east of Barton Springs Pool, 512/478-3852, www.zilkerboats.com, 10am-dark, $10 per hour, $40 per day).
It’s hard to believe you’re merely minutes from downtown once you’ve entered a trail and are surrounded by juniper trees, running water, and limestone cliffs. The Barton Creek Greenbelt (512/974-6700, www.ci.austin.tx.us/parks/greenbelts.htm), an eight-mile stretch of preserved space along Barton Creek, draws scores of nature-loving urbanites to its rugged trails, sheer cliff walls, and swimming holes. Two of the most popular and lively access points are Twin Falls near Loop 360 and MoPac (Loop 1) and Campbell’s Hole at the end of Spyglass Drive.
Tucked away in southwest Austin, The Veloway (4900 LaCrosse Ave., 512/974-6700, daily 5am-10pm) is a three-mile loop dedicated to wheels only—bikers and in-line skaters, in particular. A sign at the front gate provides a blunt reminder that joggers and walkers are not welcome here, which is fine, since bipeds have exclusive access to the rest of the city. The rolling Hill Country offers a welcoming backdrop to the surrounding 100-acre park, and the Veloway’s proximity to Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center makes this a pleasantly natural way to get a good workout.
Austinites eat out so often, they’ve been accused of not having kitchens in their homes. Indeed, the city is well known for its diverse mix of quality and affordable restaurant options, and Austin is even topping some national hot-spot lists for foodies. Locals enjoy keeping up with the latest trends and chefs without abandoning their traditional favorite comfort-food spots. No matter where you go (airport, hike and bike trail, gas station, friend’s house), you’ll hear somebody talking about Austin’s restaurant scene. Fortunately, most of the talk is good.
Upscale rustic food can be somewhat gimmicky unless it’s done right. Moonshine Patio Bar & Grill (303 Red River St., 512/236-9599, www.moonshinegrill.com, Mon.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-11pm, Sun., 9am-2pm and 5pm-10pm, $12-26) does it right. For those in town for a convention or South by Southwest at the convention center, this is a nice escape across the street into a historic limestone home. Down-home favorites like macaroni and cheese, baked chicken, and ribs get the high-end treatment, meaning top-quality ingredients are used with attention to detail. One of the best items on the menu is an appetizer—beer-battered asparagus served with a tangy dipping sauce. Make sure to save room for dessert, particularly the chocolate peanut butter pie.
On the other side of downtown, Ranch 616 (616 Nueces St., 512/479-7616, www.theranch616.com, Mon.-Fri. 11am-2pm and 5pm-11pm, Sat.-Sun. 5pm-10pm, $11-24) offers American fare with a Texas and Southwestern twist. The Gulf Coast is represented in the seafood options (shrimp quesadillas, fish tacos), and the kitchen does Texas and the South proud with its tasty biscuits, chicken-fried quail, and fried pies. Ranch 616 also draws a lively happy hour crowd, many who come for the dozens of premium tequilas.
You’ll find some of Austin’s most popular Cajun cuisine at the laid-back, local favorite Shoal Creek Saloon (909 N. Lamar Blvd., 512/474-0805, www.shoalcreeksaloon.com, daily 11am-11pm, $9-18). It’s a bit divey, but you can get some good, down-home Cajun fare like shrimp po-boys, duck gumbo, and crawfish étouffée. Don’t be surprised by the giant New Orleans Saints helmet on the roof—it’s just a sign of Shoal Creek’s Louisiana roots.
Cold beer, live music, and barbecue: It’s a holy trinity for laid-back Southerners, and in Austin, believers flock to the altar, er, bar at Stubb’s Bar-B-Q (801 Red River St., 512/480-8341, www.stubbsaustin.com, Mon.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-11pm, Sun. 11am-9pm, $11-21). The hickory-smoked barbecue is legendary—the brisket, in particular—and the sauce is the best in town: a perfect combination of vinegary tang and peppery bite. Save room for savory sides like jalapeño-creamed spinach and collard greens. Stubb’s Sunday Gospel Brunch (held at the slacker-y hours of 11am and 1pm) is virtually required for visitors, more for the soulful music than the hearty breakfast. In nonslacker news: Reservations are recommended.
Central Texas is generally accepted as the state’s barbecue capital and therefore (in the eyes of Texans) the barbecue headquarters of the world. There’s some truly tasty stuff around here, and the smorgasbord of top-notch restaurants to choose from can be mind-boggling. Fortunately, you can’t go wrong at most locally owned family-run places, especially if you see the stacks of hardwood logs out back and smell the hearty smoke burning. The good news is, most small towns in Texas are brimming with restaurants like this. Just look for the long lines forming out the door at lunchtime.
Barbecue purists will typically mention three must-taste towns on the barbecue trail—all accessible from I-35. Taylor, just north of Austin, is best known as the home of Louie Mueller Barbecue (206 W. 2nd St., 512/352-6206, www.louiemuellerbarbecue.com, Mon.-Sat. 11am-6pm, $12-28). Open since the late 1940s, Louie Mueller’s has been featured on food programs around the globe and is famous for its succulent smoked brisket. The place oozes weathered, smoke-drenched, rustic charm and serves up tender beef with a slightly peppery sauce and accompanying sweet sides (potato salad, coleslaw).
Louie Mueller Barbecue is a classic Central Texas-style barbecue joint.
Just down the road is the town of Elgin, known for its delicious “hot guts” (aka sausage). One of the city stalwarts since 1882 is Southside Market & Bar-B-Q Inc. (1212 Hwy. 290 E., 512/281-4650, www.southsidemarket.com, Mon.-Thurs. 8am-8pm, Fri.-Sat. 8am-10pm, Sun. 9am-8pm, $10-24). Sausage is the main event here, and it’s still made with fresh meats in the German tradition and served on butcher paper.
Long considered the holy grail of the barbecue trail is the community of Lockhart. This small town is big on legendary barbecue establishments, each offering a distinctive approach to preparing the meat. Purists swear by Kreuz, which doesn’t provide sauce because it would compromise the savory, smoky taste, but others remain loyal to Black’s or Smitty’s because the sauce and sides provide the perfect complementary flavor. People are usually willing to do the extensive research involved to find out what combination of smoke and meat results in the ultimate Texas barbecue experience.
If you’re planning to remain in Austin, you can’t go wrong with Franklin Barbecue (900 E. 11th St., 512/653-1187, www.franklinbarbecue.com, Tues.-Sun., 11am-3pm, $13-33). Bon Appetit declared Franklin’s the best barbecue in America, and there’s regularly a three-hour-plus line to experience this marvelous meat. The brisket is succulent, with smoky goodness infusing the exceptional beef to create a wonderful blend of hearty goodness. Although you’ll only need to sample the brisket to make your Franklin experience complete, make a point to order the savory pork ribs or spicy sausage to complement the meaty meal. For those unwilling or uninterested in the multi-hour wait, a couple almost-as-good options (with merely 30-minute waits) beckon at Stiles Switch (6610 N. Lamar Blvd., 512/380-9199, www.stilesswitchbbq.com, Tues.-Thurs. 11am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-10pm, $12-26) and a local outpost of Lockhart’s famous Black’s BBQ (3110 Guadalupe St., 512/524-0801, www.blacksbbq.com, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-10pm, $10-25).
So, how did Central Texas become such a meat mecca? Food historians believe southern African American cooking customs and German meat markets primarily influenced the style of barbecue in this area. The concept of barbecued meats on a lunch plate likely came about when African American and Mexican American cotton pickers, familiar with their own traditional pit-style meat cooking, ordered sausage and ribs from the German butcher shops in small Central Texas towns. The workers weren’t allowed in restaurants at that time (early 1900s), so after they got paid, they’d walk over to the market, order fresh-smoked meat on butcher paper, and eat it on-site. Before long, picnic tables and side items of vegetables (traditional German fare like potato salad and coleslaw) emerged, giving way to the restaurants that dot the landscape today.
Benefiting from a prime spot next to the Austin Convention Center, Iron Works Barbecue (100 Red River St., 512/478-4855, www.ironworksbbq.com, Mon.-Sat. 11am-9pm, $9-19) has exposed more out-of-staters to Texas-style barbecue than anywhere else in town. Fortunately, it’s a worthy ambassador, offering succulent beef brisket, tender pork ribs, and flavorful sausage to first-time barbecue lovers since 1978.
For a true taste of Texas history (and some fine barbecue), drop by Scholz Garten (1607 San Jacinto Blvd., 512/474-1958, www.scholzgarten.net, daily 11am-11pm, $9-18), a beer garden and dance hall founded in 1866 by August Scholz, a German immigrant. Now operated by Green Mesquite BBQ, Scholz’s serves up Texas-style barbecue (beef brisket and ribs, sausage) and standard German fare like bratwurst, sauerkraut, and even wienerschnitzel. The back patio biergarten is one of the liveliest places in town during and after UT sporting events.
If you’re downtown and looking for something slightly fancier, check out Lambert’s Downtown Barbeque (401 W. 2nd St., 512/494-1500, www.lambertsaustin.com, daily 11am-10pm, $14-30). Located in a historic mercantile store, Lambert’s offers a rare combo of urban and rural that works—cloth napkins, expensive cocktails, and big-city ambience blend seamlessly with the authentic smoked meats, quality sauce, and down-home service.
One of the most popular destinations in Austin’s hoppin’ Second Street “District” (block) is the higher-end La Condesa (400 W. 2nd St., 512/499-0300, www.lacondesa.com, Mon.-Fri. 11:30am-2:30pm and 5pm-10pm, Sat.-Sun. 11am-3pm and 5pm-10pm, $14-31). Offering a step up from traditional Tex-Mex, La Condesa is a classy, modern spot with quality twists on classic dishes, including scallop ceviche, pork belly and bleu cheese tacos, and dulce de leche sponge cake. Excelente!
With a 30-year history, Manuel’s Downtown (310 Congress Ave., 512/472-7555, www.manuels.com, Mon.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat., 11am-11pm, Sun. 10am-10pm, $10-19) is an Austin tradition—and for good reason. With an emphasis on fresh seafood dishes (ceviche, shrimp tacos) and interior Mexican (mole enchiladas), Manuel’s offers consistent quality. The main drawback: It can get really loud on weekend nights.
Another notable downtown restaurante is El Sol y La Luna (600 E. 6th St., 512/444-7770, www.elsolylalunaaustin.com, Mon.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri. 11am-midnight, Sat. 9am-midnight, Sun. 9am-4pm, $9-17). Arrive early to sample a signature Austin breakfast taco (try the potato, egg, and chorizo) or visit at lunch for Tex-Mex with a twist (catfish tacos, veggie tamales). Grab a spot by the window to enjoy the beautiful scenery and colorful Sixth Street scene.
Just north of downtown is the excellent Fresa’s Chicken Al Carbon (915 N. Lamar Blvd., 512/428-5077, www.fresaschicken.com, Sun.-Wed. 11am-10pm, Thurs.-Sat. 11am-11pm, $8-16). Known for its wood-grilled chicken, Fresa’s offers a unique take on Mexican fare. Although you can order a taco or two, make it an experience by grabbing a few friends and ordering a whole grilled chicken. It’s carved into sections and bundled in waxed paper with a gaggle of tasty accompaniments, including grilled onions and peppers, tortillas, and several salsas. Fresa’s doesn’t have a dining room, so grab an order to-go and enjoy your feast at a nearby park.
One of the city’s most popular and distinctive trailer-turned-restaurant destinations is Odd Duck (1201 S. Lamar Blvd., 512/433-6521, www.oddduckaustin.com, Mon.-Fri. 11:30am-10pm, Sat. 5pm-11pm, Sun. 10:30am-2:30pm and 5pm-10pm, $9-24). This is haute cuisine sourced from local farmers. Odd Duck prides itself on using area resources, and diners are rewarded with these efforts through incredibly fresh-tasting menu items. Local favorites include anything made with pork belly (the slider is always a good choice), which packs a lot of rich pork flavor accompanied by a tasty bit of arugula and a garlic mayonnaise. Even more inventive (yet not for everyone) is the grilled cow tongue with beets and a deviled egg. Or try the goat rolled in pasta with a hearty mole sauce. Another blend of comfort food and haute cuisine includes grits mixed with mushrooms and parmesan topped with a delectable duck egg. Complete your order with a side of turnips.
Burger and beer fans should hop directly to Hopdoddy’s (1400 S. Congress Ave., 512/243-7505, www.hopdoddy.com, daily 11am-10pm, $9-15). You may have to wait in line, so grab a goblet of local craft beer (Live Oak Hefeweizen, 512 IPA) and study the menu, since the inventive options on enormous Angus beef patties are tempting. Locals love the Llano Poblano’s combo of smoked bacon, pepper jack cheese, seared poblano peppers, and chipotle mayo, or try a Terlingua—chile con carne, cheddar cheese, Fritos, and a spicy sauce.
According to the Food Network, some of the nation’s best fried chicken is on the menu at Lucy’s (2218 College Ave., 512/297-2423, www.lucysfriedchicken.com, Mon.-Thurs. 11am-11pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-midnight, Sun. 10am-11pm, $9-26). That’s high praise, but Lucy’s is pretty deserving of it—the chicken is perfectly prepared, with a crispy exterior covering an incredibly high-quality meaty interior. Be sure to start things off with another chicken-based delicacy: deep-fried deviled eggs, which are just as tasty as they sound.
Lucy’s
You can’t go wrong with the consistently delicious South Congress Cafe (1600 S. Congress Ave., 512/447-3905, www.southcongresscafe.com, Mon.-Fri. 10am-10pm, Sat.-Sun. 9am-10pm, $12-27). In the heart of the trendy South Congress scene, this little restaurant is big on style and taste. Most dishes are Southwestern influenced, and all the portions are huge. The pork tenderloin, carrot cake, and blue-corn crepes are local favorites.
To get an authentic feel for the old-time Austin that locals pine for, drop by Magnolia Café South (1920 S. Congress Ave., 512/445-0000, www.themagnoliacafe.com, open 24 hours, $9-18). This chilled-out, veggie-friendly, late-night spot offers Southern charm and hearty breakfasts all day—its famous gingerbread pancakes are especially appealing after a big night on the town. Magnolia’s Tex-Mex plates (enchiladas, in particular) are also noteworthy, and the spicy Love Migas will test your heat index.
It’s hard to believe that in the late 1990s, Austin was in dire need of a quality Italian restaurant before it was saved by the magnificent Vespaio (1610 S. Congress Ave., 512/441-6100, www.austinvespaio.com, Mon.-Sat. 11am-10pm, Sun. 5:30pm-10pm, $15-34). This tiny trattoria (as in 15 tables small) no longer has two-hour-long waits, but the quality food is a reminder why Austinites once lined up for the experience: It’s impossible to go wrong with any of the impressive menu items or extensive daily specials. Even basics like the bread, wine selection, and service are extraordinary. The appetizers are wonderful—seared tuna and sliced bresaola with aged provolone—and the entrées are equally satisfying. The mixed meat plate, seafood grill, spaghetti alla carbonara, and handkerchief pasta are just a few of the delectable options. If you have the time, stick around for a post-meal port or brandy.
Regularly perched atop Austin’s “top restaurants” polls is S Uchi (801 S. Lamar Blvd., 512/916-4808, www.uchiaustin.com, daily 5pm-10pm, $16-50). This is a must for Japanese-food lovers or anyone looking to explore sushi beyond the basic crab and California rolls. Knowledgeable and friendly waitstaffers politely explain and recommend items, and the atmosphere is comfortable yet romantic (although occasionally loud). All the menu items are spectacular, but some of the most popular include the Muscovy duck, striped bass sushi, rib eye nigiri with a quail egg, and baby bok choy. Not surprisingly, sushi is a specialty (the sushi bar is a singles hot spot). Uchi remains one of the city’s most popular restaurants, so reservations are highly recommended.
Serving consistently high-quality Mexican food is South Congress stalwart Guero’s Taco Bar (1412 S. Congress Ave., 512/447-7688, www.guerostacobar.com, Mon.-Fri. 11am-10pm, Sat.-Sun 8am-10pm, $10-22). In a historic feed store with loads of south-of-the-border and South Austin charm, Guero’s draws foodies and celebrities for its delectable Mexican food—perfectly seasoned chicken enchiladas in a tangy tomatillo sauce, savory beef and pork tacos, and a heavenly queso flameado. One of Guero’s biggest fans is former president Bill Clinton, and the restaurant has a menu item named in honor of his favorite combo: chicken taco, beef taco, tamale, and guacamole salad.
One of the most popular Tex-Mex restaurants among longtime locals is the consistently reliable Chuy’s (1728 Barton Springs Rd., 512/474-4452, www.chuys.com, daily 11am-10pm, $8-18), and for good reason. Now a major national chain, this Austin-born, funky, Elvis-obsessed establishment is a reliable source of classic Tex-Mex—enchiladas, tacos, and quesadillas—with a Southwestern flair (blue tortillas, green chiles). The margaritas are highly recommended, and the chips and salsa are so good, you’ll find yourself filling up on them before your entrée arrives. It’s worth exercising some self-control for the whole (stacked) enchilada.
Austin has distinctive neighborhoods, but its relatively small downtown area (only one square mile) means areas historically referred to as North, South, West, and East Austin are only a mile or two away from the city’s core. So . . . for those visiting the University of Texas or staying near downtown for a festival, the following restaurants are within five minutes by car.
Until the 1980s, the most-admired and highest-profile restaurant in Austin was Fonda San Miguel (2330 W. North Loop Blvd., 512/459-4121, www.fondasanmiguel.com, Mon.-Thurs. 11am-2pm and 5pm-9:30pm, Fri-Sat. 5pm-10:30pm, Sun. 11am-2pm, $12-30). It’s still a top-notch experience, but the trendy downtowners have overshadowed this North Austin stalwart of late. Fonda San Miguel remains the place to go if you’re in search of authentic, flavorful interior Mexican food, and the hacienda-like atmosphere adds to the experience. Start off with a renowned margarita (mango is a popular choice) and continue with a pork, seafood, or enchilada dish (the mole sauce is especially succulent). Fonda San Miguel’s Sunday brunches are legendary, so be sure to make reservations.
Far less formal is the campus-area Changos Taqueria (3023 Guadalupe St., 512/480-8226, www.changos.com, daily 11am-9pm, $6-12). Perfect for a quick quality lunch, Changos offers tacos with some flair—hand-pressed tortillas while you watch, marinated meats and seafood, five salsas to choose from—accompanied by a fruity agua fresca.
Just down the street is the very untrendy, old-school El Patio (2938 Guadalupe St., 512/476-5955, Tues.-Sat. 11am-8:45pm, $9-16). It may not be cool, but it’s comfort food to the max—cheesy enchiladas, crispy beef tacos, tasty chalupas, and some of the best chips and queso in the city. Sometimes it’s nice to escape the contemporary bustle and experience old-school Austin (1954, to be exact). Although the waiters ditched their maroon polyester jackets, they still offer diners a free dessert of their choice: sherbet or candy (a sweet buttery coconut-flavored praline).
The third component of Austin’s traditional holy food trinity is Southern cooking (Tex-Mex and barbecue being the others), and despite South Austin’s proud reputation as Bubbaland, one of the city’s finest down-home cookin’ establishments is north of the river. The local legend is the original Threadgill’s (6416 N. Lamar Blvd., 512/451-5440, www.threadgills.com, Mon.-Fri. 11am-10pm, Sat. 10am-10pm, Sun. 10am-9:30pm, $10-19). Besides the meat loaf, Threadgill’s biggest claim to fame is its role in Janis Joplin’s early career—she and other aspiring musicians during Austin’s hippie era would reportedly take the stage in exchange for free grub. Threadgill’s food has become nearly as famous as Joplin’s career was. If you’ve never experienced a chicken-fried steak—tenderized meat covered in crispy breading and creamy gravy—this is the place to do it. And for a meat-centric place, the veggies are outstanding, even if they’re cooked with bacon, mixed with cheese, and doused in butter.
Consistently topping many of Austin’s “best restaurants” lists is the incomparable S Barley Swine (6555 Burnet Rd., 512/394-8150, www.barleyswine.com, daily 5pm-10pm, $90 for a prix fixe menu of 10 courses, reservations recommended). Described as “radically flavorful,” this trailer-turned-restaurant specializes in a single menu, with each progressive course offering amazing flavor combinations prepared with high-quality ingredients. Since the menu changes so often (typically featuring about nine savory and two sweet courses), it’s challenging to list suggested items; however, notable past dishes include seasoned quail, inventive beet dishes, and eggs prepared in creative ways, from caramelized to frothy.
Just east of downtown is the fabulous Launderette (2115 Holly St., 512/382-1599, www.lauderetteaustin.com, daily 11am-2:30pm and 5pm-10pm, $13-30). Located in a former laundromat in a rapidly changing part of town, Launderette offers a fresh take on quality classics, with plenty of unexpected and charming ingredients to make every menu item seem intriguing. A good starting place is the plate of fried olives, followed by tandoori prawns with bacon-based brussels sprouts. Save room for the cheddar apple pie.
North of the UT campus, locals and visitors experience Detroit’s best culinary export at Via 313 (3016 Guadalupe St, 512/358-6193, www.via313.com, daily 11am-10pm, $12-24). This Motown-style pizza is irresistible, with its thick buttery crust, savory cheese, and incredibly fresh-tasting tomato sauce. Legend has it that the rectangular pans originated with a motor worker’s creative use of a metal drip tray. Order a Detroiter (two kinds of pepperoni sausage) and pair it with a local pint or a Detroit-based Faygo pop.
A couple miles north of downtown is the spectacular Bullfight (5602 N. Lamar Blvd., 512/459-3239, www.bullfight-austin.com, Mon.-Thurs. 5pm-10pm, Fri. 5pm-11pm, Sat.-Sun. 10am-10pm, $14-32). Though influenced by Spanish seafood and tapas, there are enough American (Texan) flavors to give Bullfight a local flair. You could make a meal of the meat and cheese plates here, but make a point to order the menu item everyone in Austin is raving about: the roasted mushrooms with a touch of pepper, onion, and garlic, all perfectly held together by a flavorful jamón-cured egg.
Bullfight is a popular restaurant in Austin.
A tantalizing brand of Southern cooking is on the menu at Hoover’s (2002 Manor Rd., 512/479-5006, www.hooverscooking.com, Mon.-Fri. 11am-10pm, Sat.-Sun. 8am-10pm, $10-20), just east of I-35 downtown. Owner/cook Hoover Alexander brings a comprehensive collection of Southern influences to his dishes—his mama’s home cooking, East Texas Cajun, pit-style barbecue, and even Tex-Mex. The results are sublime: smothered pork chops, jerked chicken, spicy sausage. The gravy is the best in town, and the sides (mac and cheese, jalapeño creamed spinach) are legendary.
Good burger joints are a must in any college town, and Austin has several noteworthy locales. The king of the old-timers is Dirty Martin’s Kum-Bak Place (2808 Guadalupe St., 512/477-3173, www.dirtymartins.com, daily 11am-11pm, $8-13). Much more appetizing than it sounds, Dirty’s is a legendary burger stand that still offers carhop service. Inside, a thin layer of grease everywhere lets diners know they’re in for the real deal—grilled patties oozing with cheese on a sweet bun accompanied by thin fries or, better yet, tater tots. Washing it all down with a chocolate shake is mandatory.
A few miles north, Dan’s Hamburgers (5602 N. Lamar Blvd., 512/459-3239, daily 6am-10pm, $5-10) is a classic ’50s-style burger joint. Utterly unpretentious, Dan’s offers a perfect microcosm of Austin’s population—rich, poor, old, and young fill this no-frills restaurant daily just to partake of the reliable, tasty burgers. Incidentally, Dan’s serves one of the best diner-style breakfasts in town. Biscuits and gravy, breakfast tacos, pancakes, and huevos rancheros provide an ideal way to start the day.
Austin’s closest answer to a culinary celebrity, the Top Chef-winning Paul Qui, is the mastermind behind S Uchiko (4200 N. Lamar Blvd., 512/916-4808, www.uchikoaustin.com, Sun.-Thurs. 5pm-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 5pm-11pm, $22-53). An offshoot of the now-legendary Uchi in South Austin, Uchiko has lived up to Austinites’ anticipation and hype by delivering inventive, fresh, and extremely high-quality food inspired by Qui’s Filipino heritage and Texas culinary experience. Emerging as instant menu classics are bacon onigiri (fried pork belly, rice, banh mi pickles), hama chili (yellowtail sashimi, sliced Thai chili, orange), and the take nabe (Japanese mushroom, koshi hikari, farm fresh egg, bushi). Each of the uniquely and unexpectedly crafted dishes are expertly explained by the waitstaff, who politely suggest menu items and recommend dishes based on the level of adventure (and budget) of each individual diner.
Just east of downtown is the legendary S Franklin Barbecue (900 E. 11th St., 512/653-1187, www.franklinbarbecue.com, Tues.-Sun, 11am-3pm, $13-33). Bon Appetit declared Franklin’s the best barbecue in America, and Food Network programs regularly feature the restaurant as the ultimate example of top-quality Texas barbecue. The first thing you’ll hear about Franklin’s is the line—a three-hour (at least) affair that’s become its own cultural phenomenon. But there’s a reason people are willing to wait this long for a plate of meat: It is absolute perfection. The brisket is succulent, with smoky goodness infusing the exceptional beef (free-range, grass-fed) to create a wonderful blend of hearty goodness. By the time you earn your place at the front of the line, you’ll be asked if you’d like the brisket “lean” or “fatty.” Go with the fatty, despite your natural tendency to avoid the word. Although you’ll only need to sample the brisket to make your Franklin experience complete, make a point to order the savory pork ribs or spicy sausage to complement the meaty meal. Sides and sauces are also available (but not necessary). If you choose to partake, go with the creamy coleslaw or potato salad and the espresso sauce. A meal at Franklin’s is a truly unforgettable Austin experience.
Austin’s food trailers helped spark a statewide trend. Although they aren’t the hottest news in town anymore, they’ve had a big impact on the local culinary scene (especially with the number that transformed to brick-and-mortar locations), and they still offer inventive options in relatively accessible and inexpensive destinations. Most of them serve distinctive regional cuisine and top-notch ingredients, with the only drawback being the scenery—typically a parking lot or urban streetscape. Regardless, the phenomenon has exploded in recent years (more than 1,000 trailers joined the city’s food fray from 2006 to 2016). The heaviest concentration of options is in South Austin and near downtown. The following locales represent a sampling of the city’s best trailer food, from gourmet doughnuts to fried-avocado tacos. Due to their mobile nature and ever-changing city ordinances, food trailers have decreased in number over the past few years and often relocate based on property issues and population centers. Although the following locations were accurate at the time this was written, it would be wise to confirm the current status and location of the trailers by consulting www.foodtrailersaustin.com.
Visitors may want to start their mobile culinary journey by heading to one of Austin’s original trailer parks, a collection of vendors gathered on South First Street, about a half mile south of the Colorado River. If you only experience one trailer, make sure it’s Torchy’s Tacos (1311 S. 1st. St., 512/366-0537, www.torchystacos.com, hours vary, $5-9). Though there are nearly a dozen options on the menu, three of them are extra exceptional: the fried avocado taco (hand-battered fresh avocados topped with lettuce, tomato, cheese, and an outstanding poblano sauce on a corn tortilla), the green chile pork (roasted pork carnitas with green chiles topped with queso fresco, cilantro, and tomatillo sauce on a corn tortilla), and the Trailer Park (fried chicken, green chiles, pico de gallo, cheese, and poblano sauce on a flour tortilla)—be sure to get it “trashy,” which substitutes the lettuce with a creamy smothering of queso.
Like most cities around the country, Austin’s craft brewing scene has exploded in recent years. In fact, it’s almost to the point of saturation (the number of breweries reportedly expanded from 8 to 30 between 2014 and 2016). This is causing some beerhounds to worry that the scene’s foam bubble may soon burst.
In the meantime, locals and visitors have an embarrassment of riches to sample. For those interested in researching the dozens of area options for specific styles and locations, visit the comprehensive and helpful www.craftbeeraustin.com. Otherwise, the following breweries are consistently bustling and producing nationally recognized products. These are among the cream of the foamy top.
Beer nerds, er, connoisseurs travel from around the country for the opportunity to experience the exquisite ales at Jester King Brewery (13187 Fitzhugh Rd., 512/537-5100, www.jesterkingbrewery.com, Fri. 4pm-10pm, Sat. noon-10pm, Sun. noon-7pm), about 25 miles west of Austin. A relative newcomer to Austin’s brewing scene, Jester King transcends the craft in craft brewing by taking its farmhouse ale approach to incredibly new heights. Local culture and natural surroundings are literally part of the beers (check the website to learn about its spontaneous fermentation with a mixed culture of native yeast and bacteria, refermented with regional grapes). Although most of the ales are tantalizingly sour and funky, there are a few lighter options with local honey and fruits. You’ll enjoy quaffing your selection even more on the brewery’s inviting grounds, a traditional Hill Country ranch with picnic tables placed beneath outstretched oak trees overlooking fields of children and dogs playing together as if they’ve known each other for years. Make a point to devote some of your outdoor time to waiting in the inevitable lines for beer and the locally famous Stanley’s Farmhouse Pizza. You can’t go wrong with the Willie, a fabulous combination of brisket, barbecue sauce, cheese, onion, and jalapeños on a perfectly prepared crust.
Jester King Brewery
Locals have been waiting a long time for a taproom and retail products from the venerable Live Oak Brewing (1615 Crozier Ln., 512/385-2299, www.liveoakbrewing.com, Sun.-Thurs. noon-8pm, Fri.-Sat. noon-10pm). For nearly two decades, Live Oak’s classic brews were only available on tap, but in 2016, cans arrived on shelves and a fancy new brewhouse opened southeast of town. Now beer lovers can enjoy a crisp Pilz, tasty Hefeweizen, or hoppy Liberation IPA in the light-filled taproom or, better yet, on a picnic table under one of the many surrounding live oak trees.
For those interested in a little road trippin’ with their brewery hoppin’, head about 90 miles east of Austin through the rolling Blackland Prairie to experience the worthy Brazos Valley Brewing Company (201 W. 1st St. in Brenham, 979/987-1133, www.brazosvalleybrewery.com, taproom open Fri.-Sun. afternoons). This award-winning brewery is big on charm and flavor, with incredibly flavorful beers favoring the hoppier side of the spectrum. Be sure to try the Mama Tried IPA or Willin’ Pale Ale, and sample a seasonal ale. The down-home experience will leave you feeling like an old friend—be sure to keep the good times rollin’ by grabbing a growler to go.
Just a few steps away is Conscious Cravings (1311 S. 1st St., 512/582-9182, www.consciouscravingsaustin.com, hours vary, $5-10), one of the most popular destinations for local vegetarians and vegans (of which Austin has many). Eliciting the strongest cravings are the wraps, many encased in a hearty grilled tortilla. The options and flavors are dynamic, from black beans to mushrooms to spicy chickpeas. Be sure to pair your wrap with Conscious Cravings’ superb rosemary french fries. Wash it all down with some blueberry lemonade or a strawberry banana smoothie.
If you’d like to sample one of Austin’s famous breakfast tacos (or if the line at Torchy’s is just too long), head a couple blocks south to Mellizoz Tacos (1503 S. 1st St, 512/326-4996, www.mellizoztacos.com, hours vary, $4-7). The best option here is the miga taco (a South Texas specialty), consisting of a flavorful blend of egg, cheese, peppers, and crispy bits of tortilla chips. You can also order a custom breakfast taco, with standard items like egg, potato, sausage, cheese, beans, and spinach.
Any time of day is a good time for a fancy doughnut, right? Of course. Whether you’re in the mood for a meal or a snack, your cravings will be satisfied in completely unexpected ways at Gourdough’s (1503 S. 1st St., www.gourdoughs.com, hours vary, $3-8). Though everything here is surprisingly delicious, locals tend to gravitate toward the Porky’s (Canadian bacon, cream cheese, and jalapeño jelly), the Son of a Peach (peach filling, cinnamon, sugar, and cake mix topping), the Dirty Berry (fudge icing with grilled strawberries), or the Mother Clucker (a fried chicken strip with honey butter). Wet your whistle with an accompanying cup of coffee or, for maximum sweet effect, a Dublin Dr Pepper, made with real cane sugar.
Austin has quite a few chain hotels, but its few independently owned spots are big on charm and atmosphere. If you’re planning well in advance, book a room at one of the funky South Congress locations—you won’t experience anything like them in any other city. Most of the city’s downtown options are within walking distance from the entertainment districts, so there’s no need to take a pedicab or rideshare. In fact, you’ll probably want those five minutes on foot to eat your slice of pizza, taco, sausage wrap, or whatever’s trending at the food trailer park.
You can’t miss the distinctive sign erected in front of this retro establishment, serving as a gateway to the hip South Congress scene. S The Austin Motel (1220 S. Congress Ave., 512/441-1157, www.austinmotel.com, $125-225 d) is a SoCo stalwart, particularly for its kidney-shaped pool, surrounded by funky old lounge furniture and enough vegetation to offer some privacy from the nearby streetscape. The iconic South Congress landmark was recently renovated by famous local hotelier Liz Lambert (Hotel San Jose, Saint Cecilia). The motel now features retro kitschy rooms with 1950s and 1980s styling including curvy vinyl beds and enormous silkscreen music posters. Amenities include free Wi-Fi, complimentary coffee service in the lobby, 50-inch TVs, bathrobes, and free carport parking.
Considered by many to be the best lodging in Austin, the S Hotel San Jose (1316 S. Congress Ave., 512/444-7322, www.sanjosehotel.com, $248-423 d) is the definition of cool—simple, clean, bright, and relaxing. Vintage and modern furniture rests on smooth concrete floors, fresh-cut flowers and bottled water catch the sun’s rays, and intermittent garden areas offer songbirds, citrus trees, and peacefulness as an idyllic backdrop. Enjoy San Jose’s cozy pool, movie and music library, free Wi-Fi access, in-room manicure/pedicure service, and charming room-service breakfasts in custom bento boxes with fruit, cereal, juice, and coffee. Just off busy Congress Avenue in an adjacent tree-lined neighborhood is the unparalleled Hotel Saint Cecilia (112 Academy Dr., 512/852-2400 www.hotelsaintcecilia.com, $370 and up). Named for the patron saint of music and poetry, this cultural-minded boutique hotel is brimming with Austin charm. But it’ll cost you. Consisting of several suites in the main house and small bungalows on the sprawling grounds, the Saint Cecilia is filled with luxurious curios and amenities. From vintage record players to tasteful furniture to top-notch cocktails and food, this is where visitors (and visiting rock bands) go to experience Austin-style luxury.
Commendable primarily for its prime location is Extended Stay America (507 S. 1st St., 512/476-1818, www.homesteadhotels.com, $139 d). Situated within walking distance of downtown and Zilker Park, this is an ideal place to stay if you’re attending the Austin City Limits festival or if you don’t plan to spend too much time hanging out in the mediocre room. Though it’s a bit rough around the edges, Extended Stay America still offers full kitchens with utensils, pet-friendly accommodations, and free Wi-Fi.
Location-wise, the La Quinta Inn Austin Capitol (300 E. 11th St., 512/476-1166, www.lq.com, $139 d) is superb. This is one of the few places in town where having a rental car is not necessary, especially since there isn’t any on-site parking. The hotel’s prime location is its biggest asset, offering easy access by foot to most of the city’s major attractions and entertainment options. Other positive aspects of the hotel include complimentary Internet access, a free continental breakfast, a fitness center, and occasionally impressive views.
One of the finest downtown options is the slick, business-oriented Hilton Austin (500 E. 4th St., 512/482-8000, www.hilton.com, $150 d). The hotel is alongside the Austin Convention Center, so corporate functions are commonplace, but the location is amazing, as are several of the amenities—a fancy health club and spa with outdoor heated lap pool and hot tub, and alarm clocks with mp3 player hookups.
If you’re participating in any activities related to the University of Texas or if you just want to stay in a nice, new central location, consider the more-welcoming-than-it-sounds AT&T Executive Education and Conference Center (1900 University Ave., 877/744-8822, www.meetattexas.com, $169 d). On the southern edge of the UT campus just north of downtown, this often-corporate lodging option is surprisingly one of the few places to stay directly adjacent to campus. Aside from easy access to university attractions (museums, sports facilities, bars), the hotel features fancy bedding, wet bars, 40-inch flat-panel TVs, and free Internet access.
You’ll find the best skyline view in the entire city at the S Hyatt Regency (208 Barton Springs Rd., 512/477-1234, www.hyatt.com, $179 d). Stunning. Sweeping. Expansive. These are all apt descriptions of the vantage point from each of the riverside rooms—one of the only hotels in town offering this experience from the south banks of Lady Bird Lake. Hyatt guests get an eyeful of the ever-expanding city skyline with bonus views of the Hill Country and the bats’ celebrated evening emergence. The hotel also includes an outdoor pool, whirlpool, sundeck, and health club facility.
The magnificent S InterContinental Stephen F. Austin Hotel (701 Congress Ave., 512/457-8800, www.austin.intercontinental.com, $220 d) provides historical luxury on a large scale. Originally opened in 1924, the Stephen F. offers opulence in an ideal downtown location and features perhaps the best place in town to enjoy a beverage with a view. The hotel’s terrace bar overlooks the busy epicenter of downtown, offering the only publicly accessible balcony with a tremendous view of the capitol building. Room amenities include minibars, elegant furnishings, and soft bathrobes.
The Residence Inn (300 E. 4th St., 512/236-8008, www.marriott.com, $239 d) is popular with the business crowd since it’s across the street from the convention center. This Marriott is one of the city’s cleanest hotels, and it’s just blocks away from some of Austin’s premier restaurants and bars. The hotel also features an indoor pool, complimentary hot breakfast, and free wireless Internet access.
Another notable downtown locale is the Radisson (111 E. Cesar Chavez St., 512/478-9611, www.radisson.com, $249 d), overlooking scenic Lady Bird Lake and, most important, the Congress Avenue bat bridge. Take advantage of the backyard view of the city’s famous summertime bat-watching festivities, or just enjoy the activity on the water and shoreline hike and bike trail. Amenities include a large outdoor pool, a fitness center, and free Wi-Fi.
The spectacular S Driskill Hotel (604 Brazos St., 512/474-5911, www.driskillhotel.com, $259 d) exudes history, sophistication, and Texas. Built in 1886 as the showplace of a cattle baron, this historic downtown hotel offers guests a luxurious way to appreciate Austin’s charms and attractions. The lobby alone is stunning, with its massive columns, marble floor, and stained-glass domed ceiling, and the rooms contain intricate woodwork, period furnishings, and sweeping views of downtown. Other highlights include the nationally recognized Driskill Grill and a fitness studio with massage tables and a sauna.
Perhaps the coolest new digs in town are at Heywood Hotel (1609 E. Cesar Chavez St., 512/271-5522, www.heywoodhotel.com, $269 and up). Named one of the “world’s best new hotels” by Conde Nast, the Heywood is an über-trendy boutique hotel in Austin’s über-trendy East Side. Taking its inspiration from mid-century modern design, the Heywood is decked out to the nines, with stylish furnishings, an Internet jukebox, coffee service, free Wi-Fi, and bikes.
A favorite of celebrities and jet-setters, Austin’s Four Seasons (98 San Jacinto Blvd., 512/478-4500, www.fourseasons.com, $399 d) is teeming with luxury and exquisite views of Lady Bird Lake, the Congress Avenue Bridge, and the gently rolling Hill Country. Other exquisite amenities the $300-plus tab covers include a luxurious spa, pool, and fitness center overlooking the shoreline; private minibars; thick terry-cloth bathrobes; rental bikes; free newspaper with breakfast; and a Texas authors lending library.
Though it’s far from the typical trendy Austin experience, the Arboretum area offers a pleasant environment adjacent to northside shops and restaurants with easy access to downtown (a 15-minute drive). A clean and reliable option is Staybridge Suites (10201 Stonelake Blvd., 512/349-0888, www.ichotelsgroup.com, $135 d). Staybridge offers welcoming grounds with grassy hills and an outdoor recreation area, including a heated pool and sports courts. Inside, there’s a fitness center, and rooms include free Wi-Fi service. Kids eat free with a standard room reservation; suite reservations include free breakfast for all guests. A few miles down the road (closer to the newer and fancier Domain “lifestyle shopping center”) is Hampton Inn (3908 W. Braker Ln., 512/349-9898, www.hamptoninn.com, $149 d). The Hampton’s amenities include free high-speed wireless Internet access, a free hot breakfast or to-go bags with a bottle of water (Mon.-Fri.), a fitness center, and a pool.
A reliable option in the Arboretum area is Courtyard by Marriott (9409 Stonelake Blvd., 512/502-8100, www.marriott.com, $169 d). Amenities include free wireless Internet access, a breakfast buffet (or add $10 to your nightly rate to include breakfast as part of the package), and a fitness center with indoor pool and whirlpool. For a step up in services for only a modest price increase, consider Homewood Suites (10925 Stonelake Blvd., 512/349-9966, www.homewoodsuites.hilton.com, $179 d). This all-suite hotel is located in a tranquil parklike setting, and its one- and two-bedroom suites feature separate living and sleeping areas; kitchens with a refrigerator, microwave, stove, dishwasher, and coffeemaker; and 32-inch flat-panel TVs. Homewood Suites are pet-friendly and offer complimentary hot breakfast daily as well as free wireless Internet access.
For a truly distinctive Austin experience, make plans to spend a few nights (and days) at the magnificent S Travaasa Austin (13500 FM 2769, 512/364-0061, www.travaasa.com/austin, $325 and up). Billed as an “experiential resort,” Travaasa is a true escape from home, work—and maybe even beloved family members—with a full schedule of optional activities that feel more like a fun-filled adult summer camp than a lodging destination. For example, guests can choose “experiences” based on their interests, from low-key options like meditation, harmonica basics, and two-step dance lessons to adrenaline-filled outdoor activities like ziplining, mechanical bull riding, and hatchet-throwing. Other options are available based on themes such as cooking, yoga, and fitness. When you’re not learning how to hula-hoop or ride a horse, you can always opt to lounge by the pool or get a massage in the spa. Meals at Travaasa use top-notch, local ingredients and rival the best restaurants in Austin for quality and service. Here’s the best part: Travaasa’s fees (seemingly a bit pricey at first) cover everything from meals to activities to refreshments to tips. The mere fact you don’t have to carry a wallet or keep track of expenses (which, when taken separately, typically exceed the all-inclusive fee) makes the Travaasa experience even more enjoyable and relaxing. If that’s even possible.
About 10 miles southeast of downtown Austin, McKinney Falls State Park (5808 McKinney Falls Pkwy., 512/243-1643, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, $5 ages 13 and older) offers a natural respite just down the road from Capital City. The 744-acre park is a great place to get away for camping, hiking, biking, swimming (in Onion Creek), picnicking, and fishing. Facilities include screened shelters with bunk beds (no mattresses) and dozens of campsites with water and electricity.
Another can’t-believe-the-city-is-nearby camping area is Pace Bend Park (2501 N. Pace Bend Rd., 512/264-1482, www.co.travis.tx.us, primitive camping $15 per vehicle, improved camping $20 per vehicle). At 30 minutes, it’s a bit farther away, but it’s well worth the scenic Hill Country drive. This is one of the most popular camping areas in the region, so show up early (and carpool) to take advantage of the beautiful lakeside park. Whether you’re in an RV or pup tent, be sure to bring a radio—out here you can catch the rootsy, twangy sounds of Texas Rebel Radio (107.9 KFAN), providing the best campfire music you’ve ever heard. Ever.
The Austin Visitor Center (602 E. 4th St., 512/478-0098, www.austintexas.org, Mon.-Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. 10am-5pm) is a good place to get started with the help of free maps and friendly staffers. The visitors center also contains headquarters for Austin Duck Adventures (www.austinducks.com), conducted in an amphibious vehicle, and Austin Overtours (www.aotoursaustin.com), which take place in the comfort of a van. Another good place to gather information, brochures, and maps about the city is the Austin Convention and Visitors Bureau (111 Congress Ave., Ste. 700, 512/474-5171, www.austintexas.org, Mon.-Fri. 8am-5pm).
Adjacent to the capitol, the Capitol Visitors Center (112 E. 11th St., 512/305-8400, daily 9am-5pm) provides helpful information about the magnificent capitol building and surrounding attractions and services.
Austinites are avid readers—you’ll find newspaper racks and free publications available all over town. The city’s only metro daily paper is the Austin American-Statesman (www.statesman.com), a fine publication that’s known as much for its innovative design as its content. Those looking for up-to-date entertainment news should pick up a Friday paper, which includes the Austin 360 supplement (www.austin360.com). Offering a healthy alternative is the Austin Chronicle (www.austinchronicle.com), published every Thursday. The Chronicle is packed with comprehensive, well-written articles devoted to local politics, culture, and entertainment.
The only way to arrive in Austin by air is the Austin-Bergstrom International Airport (512/530-2242, www.austintexas.gov/airport). Eight miles southeast of downtown, the small yet easily navigable airport features exclusively local restaurants and music by Texas artists. As a welcome to the “Live Music Capital of the World,” check out the bands playing on stage at the Hill Country Bar.
If you’re interested in local alternatives to Uber and Lyft, download the app for RideAustin and Fasten. The city also has three major cab companies: American Yellow Checker Cab (512/452-9999), Austin Cab (512/478-2222), and Lone Star Cab (512/836-4900). Fares run around $25 from the airport to downtown. Another option for getting to your destination is Super Shuttle (512/258-3826), which offers 24-hour shared-van service for around $20 per person.
If you’re feeling adventurous (aka not renting a car), you can tackle the city’s bus system, Capital Metro (512/474-1200, www.capmetro.org), which provides service to downtown and the University of Texas campus. Buses run Monday-Saturday 5am-midnight, Sunday 6:30am-10:30pm. Check the website for fare information.