river barge on San Antonio’s famous River Walk
the iconic Alamo in downtown San Antonio.
Most of South Texas is defined and unified by its Tejano heritage. Though it contains a scattering of German and other European settlers’ communities, the majority of South Texas culture is tied to Mexico, including the legendary Alamo, constructed along with four other San Antonio missions in the early 1700s to help expand Spain’s influence in the New World. Despite the well-known phrase, people typically don’t remember the Alamo in its correct historic context. The 1836 siege at the Alamo site, by then an abandoned mission complex, resulted in a loss for the Texans, who subsequently used the defeat as a motivational rallying cry (“Remember the Alamo!”) in their victorious battle at San Jacinto a month later.
Settlers continued to descend upon this sun-drenched, tropical region throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, many from Mexico, and others—Germans, Czechs, and French, to name a few—from ports on the Gulf Coast. The Mexican cowboys known as vaqueros had a cultural impact on the region that would ultimately affect the entire state’s image. These professional ranch hands passed along their knowledge of roping, branding, and riding to the Anglos who arrived in droves in the mid-1800s and acquired vast amounts of South Texas ranch land. The evacuation of longhorn and other cattle from area ranches to San Antonio, Fort Worth, and markets to the north along the legendary Chisholm Trail was the largest migration of livestock in history.
The urban (not quite cosmopolitan) intrigue and abundant business opportunities in San Antonio made it a destination point for immigrants throughout the 1800s and 1900s, but the cities receiving the most significant population booms recently are along the Texas-Mexico border. Brownsville and McAllen, in particular, have experienced population explosions thanks to the manufacturing jobs at major factories built on the banks of the Rio Grande.
Also having an economic impact on the region are the snowbirds, aka Winter Texans. These retirees migrate from cold northern climes to roost in the Lower Rio Grande Valley and along the Gulf Coast. They frequent the region’s many Tex-Mex restaurants and are particularly fond of the abundant birding and ecotourism opportunities as well as the museums and historic sites scattered throughout the region.
Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.
S The Alamo: This “Shrine of Texas Liberty” stands as a proud monument to the valor and sacrifice of a few brave men who fought to their deaths in defense of Texas. Don’t forget to remember the Alamo (click here)!
S San Antonio Missions National Historical Park: Four magnificent colonial mission buildings transport visitors to the mid-1700s, when Spain ruled the region (click here).
S San Antonio River Walk: The San Antonio River is flanked by lush foliage, cobblestone walkways, and an impressive assortment of shops, restaurants, and nightclubs (click here).
S Pearl Brewery Development: This stunning adaptive reuse project features a hotel, several top-notch restaurants, a culinary institute, residential lofts, and other eye-catching architectural details (click here).
S Gruene Historic District: Take a step back in time in Gruene, featuring Texas’s oldest operating dance hall, a top-notch rustic restaurant, and enough shopping options to keep the family stocked with jewelry and T-shirts for years (click here).
S Tubing the Guadalupe River: Kick back and let the current lazily carry you down a refreshing tree-lined waterway on a hot summer day (click here).
S Seminole Canyon State Park: A fascinating collection of ancient Native American rock art features mystic shaman figures and mysterious handprints, some dating back more than 4,000 years (click here).
Most visitors to this region either stay exclusively in San Antonio or near the Mexican border. Although the three- to five-hour drive from San Antonio to the Lower Rio Grande Valley may seem lengthy, it’s worth making just to experience the tremendous border culture. South Texas food (from sopapillas to citrus) is especially outstanding. Now that Mexico is virtually off-limits to tourists, the closest many people will get to a genuine Mexican meal is along the border.
Allow at least two or three days in San Antonio. The city’s genuinely friendly atmosphere draws visitors into its laid-back vibe, where the next attraction or event can always wait for another margarita. And the Alamo and the nearby River Walk are definite must-sees, despite being two of the most touristy places in the country. Weekdays are less crowded at these sites; save the weekend for visiting the missions, the Institute of Texan Cultures, and the San Fernando Cathedral, or take an extra day to enjoy the amusement at SeaWorld or Six Flags.
For those planning to stay in the San Antonio area, the historic charm of New Braunfels offers a nice destination for a day trip, especially if there’s a show at Gruene Hall. Otherwise, the pleasant yet small city of Del Rio is a somewhat more ambitious yet manageable day trip (about 2.5 hours away).
For a true taste of border culture, plan to spend several days in the Valley, especially Brownsville and McAllen. Brownsville offers the history and traditions of two countries, while McAllen features newer attractions related to ecotourism and the arts.
San Antonio is an ancient city by Texas standards, with structures dating to the early 1700s (Spanish missions) and a dense downtown boasting centuries-old homes, plazas, and commercial buildings. Most visitors immediately think of the touristy areas around the Alamo and River Walk, but it’s worth exploring beyond the downtown district to discover the city’s many cultural charms.
This truly is where the action is, and it’s possible to spend a few days in this part of town without tiring of the history, culture, and people-watching opportunities. If this floats your boat, consider booking a historic hotel adjacent to the Alamo (the Menger or Crockett) and walk to the alluring shops and restaurants along the River Walk and nearby Market Square.
Just south of downtown, this area is ideal for exploring by foot or even by car. In the 25-block King William District, stately and ornate Victorian, Greek Revival, and Italianate homes stand on pleasant tree-lined streets. Take a walking tour to really soak up the late-1800s architecture, or enjoy the scenery from an air-conditioned vehicle if it’s a 100-degree summer day. The surrounding Southtown boasts funky boutiques, art galleries, and restaurants.
As its name implies, this centrally located area of San Antonio is close to all the action. Although it’s primarily residential, Midtown offers a nice option for those who enjoy soaking up local culture by experiencing the historic homes and neighborhood businesses. Hot spots in the Midtown area include the recently restored Pearl Brewery district and picturesque Trinity University.
Northwest of downtown, this up-and-coming district is becoming a favorite destination for those seeking unique shopping and dining opportunities. With commercial and residential buildings reflecting the city’s early-mid-1900s art deco period, this area anchored by Fredericksburg Road boasts distinctive art galleries and trendy Tex-Mex restaurants.
Technically an independent municipality, Alamo Heights is the upscale region of San Antonio, with high-end restaurants and fancy hotels. The enormous homes are visual attractions, and the top-notch clothing boutiques, fashionable dining options, and tony nightclubs offer a slice of glitz in Alamo City.
One of the best places to get started on your hunt for San Antonio information is the San Antonio Visitor Information Center (317 Alamo Plaza, 210/207-6700 or 800/447-3372, www.visitsanantonio.com, daily 9am-5pm). inside the historic Crockett building between the Alamo and the River Walk. You can also drop by the Convention & Visitors Bureau’s corporate offices (203 S. St. Mary’s St., 2nd floor, 210/207-6700 or 800/447-3372, daily 8am-5:30pm).
Another useful resource is the Greater San Antonio Chamber of Commerce (602 E. Commerce St., 210/229-2100, www.sachamber.org), which offers a comprehensive website with extensive listings of hotels, restaurants, attractions, and events.
For those seeking specific information about the famous River Walk, including the status and location of the many businesses, contact the Paseo del Rio Association (110 Broadway, Ste. 500, 210/227-4262, www.thesanantonioriverwalk.com).
For a regional perspective, check with the fine folks at the Texas Tropical Trail Region in Kingsville (361/592-4603, www.texastropicaltrail.com). They offer an informed perspective along with maps and brochures on heritage tourism and other cultural destinations in South Texas.
Most travelers arrive in South Texas by plane at San Antonio International Airport. However, there are several smaller regional airports in Del Rio, Laredo, and Brownsville. San Antonio and the midsize cities have bus and taxi services; otherwise, travelers in this region tend to navigate the long stretches between (and even within) cities by car. San Antonio’s freeway system was well designed and built with the anticipation of increased traffic volume, unlike other cities that chose to take a “if you don’t build it, they won’t come” approach to highways (ahem, Austin). As a result, rush hour traffic isn’t too much of a nightmare, since the abundance of interstate and bypass loop options adequately distribute the mass of vehicles.
The San Antonio International Airport (9800 Airport Blvd., 210/207-3411, www.sanantonio.gov/aviation) is relatively small for the seventh-largest city in the country, but it’s a good-looking facility and easy to navigate. About 12 miles north of downtown, the airport offers flights from 10 U.S.-based airlines and three Mexican companies.
Most travelers choose to rent a car since they’ll likely explore beyond downtown. Most of the major companies are represented—Alamo (of course), Budget, Enterprise, Dollar, etc. After picking up a vehicle, it’s a straight shot down U.S. Highway 281 to downtown, which takes about 15-30 minutes, depending on the time of day.
Another transportation option from the airport worth considering is SA Trans (210/281-9900), offering shared van service to downtown hotels for about $25 one-way (with a round-trip purchase). The company operates booths outside both airport terminals, and service runs 7am-1:30am. Call 24 hours ahead for return service from the hotel.
For those not Uber-ing or Lyft-ing, taxis cost about $35 and take approximately 20 minutes between the airport and downtown. Stations are located outside the airport terminals, and, a bonus not found in most cities, up to four people can share a cab for the same price without paying additional charges per person or luggage.
Also fairly unique to San Antonio is the respectable public transportation system, which is considered rather efficient, inexpensive, and easily accessible. VIA Metropolitan Transit (210/362-2020, www.viainfo.net) runs about 100 bus lines and a downtown streetcar service. Fares start at $1.
A unique way to get around town is via river taxi with Rio San Antonio Cruises (tickets at Rivercenter Mall and Holiday Inn, 210/244-5700 or 800/417-4139, www.riosanantonio.com, $10 adults, $7 seniors, $4 children ages 1-5), which specializes in tours but can also arrange for transportation.
For those in search of more traditional travel services, San Antonio is accessible by train (Amtrak operates a depot on the east side of downtown at 350 Hoefgen St., 800/872-7245) and bus (the Greyhound station is downtown at 500 N. St. Mary’s St., 210/270-5868).
Several smaller airports also serve this region of the state, including the Laredo International Airport (5210 Bob Bullock Loop, 956/795-2000, www.ci.laredo.tx.us/airport), which offers daily flights to Dallas-Fort Worth, Houston, Las Vegas, and other cities on three major airlines. Del Rio International Airport (1104 W. 10th St., 830/774-8538, www.cityofdelrio.com) provides a United Airlines flight to and from Houston several times daily, and the Valley International Airport in Harlingen (3002 Heritage Way, 956/430-8600, www.flythevalley.com) offers Southwest Airlines and United Express as the main airline carriers.
San Antonio is a legendary city, and for good reason. Its beginnings predate the founding of the United States by more than half a century, the Alamo is a cultural icon, and the city’s missions represent an era of Spanish colonialism that becomes more fascinating as each new detail is learned. Add to that the lure of the River Walk, amusement parks, and the city’s welcoming lack of pretension, and it should come as no surprise that San Antonio regularly appears in top-10 lists of favorite travel destinations in Texas and the United States.
San Antonio (population 1,469,845) is the seventh-largest city in the country, according to the U.S. Census Bureau, but it’s certainly not evident to visitors savoring long lunches at downtown patio cafés alongside casually dressed office workers. Nor is it obvious when you’re sitting atop the Tower of the Americas, surveying the modest skyline, devoid of egocentric glass monuments dedicated to power and prosperity. It’s certainly not noticeable in the genuine greetings and friendly eye contact you’ll encounter on the other side of each door and around every street corner.
It’s the kind of town ideally suited for a getaway—no stressful hustle and bustle, just a steady flow of activity amid an impressive infrastructure of historic buildings and modern conveniences. Most visitors come to San Antonio on a pilgrimage to see the Alamo, even though they likely couldn’t tell you about its significance in U.S. history. The nearby River Walk is one of the top tourist destinations in the entire state, and even though its tantalizing smells, colorful sights, and vibrant energy are entertaining, the stretch of restaurants, shops, and hotels along the San Antonio River doesn’t truly represent the soul of this city. Though it may come as a surprise to some tourists, San Antonio thrived between the construction of the Alamo (1724) and the River Walk (1961).
The city’s origins are tied to the 1718 San Antonio de Bexar Presidio (fort) and the nearby village of San Fernando de Bexar, chartered in 1731 by a group of people from the Canary Islands. Around this time, several of San Antonio’s most significant structures were constructed on two of the city’s major plazas, Military and Main. The Spanish Governor’s Palace was completed in 1749, and, nearly 10 years later, the San Fernando de Bexar Church was built just around the corner.
San Antonio became a major hub of activity during the Texas Revolution and was the site of several notable clashes, including the 1835 Siege of Bexar and the memorable 1836 Battle of the Alamo. Once Texas entered the Union in 1845, people began arriving in droves from the eastern part of the country and from European nations via Gulf Coast ports (mainly Galveston). Many of the city’s newcomers were involved with the cattle industry, and aspects of city life soon revolved around the agriculture business since most early trail drives went through San Antonio. A good portion of this ranching activity centered on the city’s main plazas, especially at banks, saloons, mercantile stores, and fancy hotels like the Menger, St. Anthony, and Gunter. The more prosperous ranchers had homes in the tony King William District just south of downtown.
The cowboys who gathered at the plazas and stockyards were appropriate ambassadors of San Antonio’s multicultural makeup, since their skills and equipment were largely based on the vaqueros who drove cattle and worked the ranches in Mexico before Anglos started arriving in Texas. From branding to roping to riding, the Mexican influence on ranching in Texas was profound, and in San Antonio, the impact reached far beyond the barbed wire.
San Antonio would go on to flourish in the late 1800s and early 1900s, thanks in large part to the railroads and highway systems that kept the economy strong with agricultural trade and the military bases that proliferated in the area. By the middle of the 20th century, the city had gained a reputation as a major travel destination due to its moderate climate and dynamic history. San Antonio became one of the country’s most-visited cities as a result of its abundant attractions and appealing mid-continental location for industry conventions.
TOP EXPERIENCE
The Alamo (300 Alamo Plaza, 210/225-1391, www.thealamo.org, daily 9am-5:30pm, summer until 7pm, free) is appropriately referred to as a shrine. Upon entering, visitors are asked to remove their hats and refrain from taking photos “out of respect for the shrine,” and it’s been referred to as the “Shrine of Texas Liberty.” If this word conjures up images of a mythical and sacred fortress drawing faithful devotees, then the Alamo certainly qualifies. Once visitors get past the site’s unexpected urban setting—apparently most textbooks include a rustic sketch of the Alamo in its frontier-era isolated state—they can appreciate its historical significance.
The iconic Alamo is known as the “Shrine of Texas Liberty.”
To get a true understanding of the Alamo’s role in Texas and U.S. history, be sure to devote 20 minutes to the compelling presentation offered inside the main Alamo building. Without lecturing to or boring the assembled visitors, Alamo experts discuss the complex series of events leading to the famous battle. From the site’s original role as Mission San Antonio de Valero, established in 1718 to teach Catholicism and protect Spain’s colonial interests, to its subsequent incarnations as a hospital and cavalry post, the Alamo’s historic context begins to take shape. A detailed and engaging explanation of the specific occurrences leading to the March 1836 Alamo siege make for gripping drama, from thousands of Mexican troops descending on San Antonio raising a red flag of “no quarter” (no mercy), to the few hundred Texans and Tejanos valiantly proclaiming to fight until death “in the cause of liberty and humanity,” to the final, brutal early morning hand-to-hand combat, the vivid presentation is an essential component of an Alamo visit. By the time it’s over, the walls seem even more sacred, and the already-buoyant sense of Texas pride becomes even more inflated.
inside Mission San José
The Alamo site was in pretty bad shape in 1905 when the Texas legislature entrusted the care and maintenance of the grounds to the Daughters of the Republic of Texas. Over the past several years, the Alamo’s stewardship transferred to the State of Texas (it’s a long story), resulting in some grand plans for the future. For those interested in the vision for the property—including a fascinating connection with pop music legend Phil Collins and his donated collection of Alamo artifacts—visit the site’s webpage.
In addition to the famous mission building, the grounds include the Long Barrack Museum, featuring a small theater with a fascinating film about the Alamo and an impressive collection of historic artifacts (weapons, vernacular items, and models), a lush courtyard with a well dating to the mission era (1724-1793), an informative timeline displayed on large outdoor panels, and a jam-packed gift shop befitting of a worldwide tourist destination. You’ll find the entire spectrum of visitors—from old women in head wraps to young boys in coonskin caps—making their pilgrimage to remember the Alamo.
The extraordinary San Antonio missions stand proudly among common urban scenery today as the San Antonio Missions National Historical Park (various locations, 210/534-8875, www.nps.gov/saan, daily 9am-5pm, free). The five structures (including the Alamo) were built during the era of Peter the Great and Johann Sebastian Bach, and serve as testament to the important role Texas played in international history during the early 18th century. One of the best ways to explore the missions is by bike—the sites are loosely connected by a trail (map available at www.sanantonioriver.org), and rental bikes are available at BCycle stations throughout downtown (www.sanantonio.bcycle.com). By helping expand Spain’s religious and secular influence in the New World, the missions became a focal point for European powers and their quest to lay claim to the land that would eventually become Texas.
San Antonio’s five fascinating Spanish missions are unlike any other historic structures in Texas. Representing a bygone era of the Lone Star State’s storied past, these magnificent structures transport visitors to a time when Native Americans still occupied the land and European powers were staking claims in the New World. The following brief descriptions offer an overview of the individual compounds and their contributions to Texas history.
Now known as the Alamo, this mission was founded in 1718 and was the first to be established on the San Antonio River. Like the other missions, it served to protect the interests of Spain and teach Catholicism; however, it is best known as a fort that was attacked during Texas’s War for Independence from Mexico in 1836.
The mission Nuestra Señora de la Purísima Concepción was relocated from East Texas in 1731, and the church still appears as it did in the mid-1700s, when it served as the mission’s center of religious activity. The mission was once covered with colorful geometric patterns on its exterior and interior surfaces, but they have long since faded.
This is the oldest of the original East Texas missions (founded in 1690 as San Francisco de los Tejas). In 1731, the compound was moved to the San Antonio River and renamed San Antonio de la Espada. This mission’s church appears almost as remote today as it did in the mid-1700s since it’s the farthest south from the urban environs of San Antonio.
Known as the “Queen of the Missions,” this compound’s enviable size and organization gave it a reputation as being a model of mission life. San José was a major social center, featuring distinctive architecture and plentiful pastures.
Mission San José
Mission San Juan Capistrano was originally established in East Texas as San José de los Nazonis. In 1731, it was relocated to the San Antonio River and renamed San Juan. Decades later, it became a major regional supplier of agricultural produce thanks to its rich farmlands.
The first to be developed was San Antonio de Valero (the Alamo), in 1718. As the overachieving older sibling, it went on to achieve much fame and is therefore designated as its own separate historic site. The remaining missions—Concepción, Espada, San José, and San Juan—were established between 1720 and 1731, and offer a fascinating window to the past, particularly in a state where the words historic structure conjure up images of Main Street buildings and Victorian homes from the early 1900s.
Way back in 1690, Spain established six missions in East Texas to help establish its presence in the New World and, while they were at it, convert the area’s “savage” Native Americans to Catholicism. Before long, a midway point was needed between the new settlements and the main supply source south of the Rio Grande, so plans were made to construct the new missions along a natural stopping point on a meandering river, where the Spanish often gathered to celebrate the feast of Saint Anthony (San Antonio).
Meanwhile, the missions farther north were struggling due to drought and disease, so several of these settlements relocated to the San Antonio River valley in 1731. From the 1740s through the 1780s, the missions thrived, and the Native American “recruits” hunted, built structures, gardened, cooked, and learned how to make soap. Although they were trained to be good Catholics and even adopted many Spanish customs, the Native Americans continued practicing their traditions, typically under the pretext of Catholic festivals.
By the late 1700s, mission life became more difficult, with Apache and Comanche tribes encroaching on Spanish territory and political maneuvers in Europe threatening the missions’ roles. A secret treaty involving Napoleon Bonaparte was apparently the last straw for the missions, resulting in the famed Louisiana Purchase to support his military ventures in Europe.
By this point, the missions were beginning to decline for other reasons—European diseases decimated much of the Native American population, and acculturation of local tribes made the missions’ original objectives obsolete. In 1824, the missions were secularized, the land was redistributed, and the chapels in the complexes transferred to the secular clergy.
It’s easy for people to dismiss the San Antonio River Walk (210/227-4262, www.thesanantonioriverwalk.com), referred to by some locals as the Paseo del Rio, as a crowded, touristy attraction. And it is, to a degree. But like many things touristy, there’s a reason people flock to this location, and it’s not just to spend money on unnecessary trinkets and experience unnatural thrills. This is a genuinely festive environment punctuated by bouts of laughter, spiky yucca plants, and riverboats packed with people wearing silly hats and sunglasses. The immediate access to so many different types of authentic high-quality Texas food is alone worth the visit.
the San Antonio River Walk
Since the early 2010s, the city has made impressive efforts to extend the River Walk beyond the core touristy area to allow visitors and locals to explore additional cultural resources in the historic city. The Museum Reach encompasses a few extra miles north of the city to allow walkers, joggers, and cyclists the opportunity to visit the San Antonio Museum of Art, Witte Museum, and the Pearl Brewery district. These same folks can also discover the Mission Reach section just south of downtown, offering access to the historic King William District and four missions in the San Antonio Missions National Historical Park.
The main portion of the River Walk is a scenic horseshoe-shaped stretch of the San Antonio River, flanked by tropical foliage, cobblestone walkways, and a fascinating collection of shops, restaurants, and nightclubs. The whole blissfully detached scene exists a level below the busy streets and sidewalks used by bustling businesspeople, allowing River Walkers to operate in their own private San Antonio.
For those looking to stretch their legs beyond the main loop, the River Walk extends throughout downtown, linking many of the city’s main tourist attractions, including Alamo Plaza, La Villita, HemisFair Park, and Rivercenter. The River Walk also plays a major role in the city’s annual Fiesta San Antonio, with a river parade featuring flower-bedecked “floats” that actually float on the water.
The modern-day version of the River Walk began taking shape in 1961, when one of the companies responsible for designing Disneyland drafted a plan recommending the buildings be developed with riverside access in an early Texas or Mexican colonial style. Soon after, the city developed a River Walk District, and the parks department completed a major landscape project by adding 17,000 assorted trees, shrubs, vines, and ground cover. Next came the hotels, which brought the pedestrian traffic that boosted the restaurants and retail establishments along the nearly three miles of scenic riverside walkways. Before long, word spread across the state and country about this distinctive attraction, annually drawing hundreds of thousands of visitors, mainly business conventioneers and families, to its tree-lined banks.
One of the most popular ways to experience the River Walk is via boat. To get on board, contact Rio San Antonio Cruises (tickets at Rivercenter Mall and Holiday Inn, 210/244-5700 or 800/417-4139, www.riosanantonio.com, $10 adults, $7 seniors, $4 children ages 1-5). The boat rides are about 30 minutes long and include a narrated description of sites along the San Antonio River. Visit the website for boat stations and ticket counters.
The 50,000-square-foot gargantuan structure just east of downtown is the magnificent Institute of Texan Cultures (801 E. Durango Blvd., 210/458-2300, www.texancultures.com, Mon.-Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. noon-5pm, $10 adults, $8 seniors and children ages 6-17). The building’s main ground-floor exhibit reveals that Texans are a remarkably diverse bunch, with cultural and ethnic backgrounds from all corners of the globe. Although more than 250 distinct ethnic and cultural groups currently exist in the Lone Star State, merely 26 are showcased in the exhibits. A large sign announcing each group’s name hangs from the ceiling, and the display cases below feature objects and artifacts representing the culture, with a focus on its Texas connection. An enormous globe at the entryway not-so-subtly conveys the message that Texas, like the rest of the country, is a big ol’ melting pot (or perhaps a really flavorful stew or chili).
the Institute of Texan Cultures
The institute offers other resources in the halls above and beyond the massive main exhibit space. They include a research library, which contains books, oral histories, and an extensive photo archive devoted to Texas’s diverse cultural background, and offices related to special events, most notably the annual Texas Folklife Festival. This immensely entertaining multicultural event is held annually during the second weekend in June, when people from around the globe are recognized and honored via ethnic food, music, dance, arts, and crafts as a way of celebrating Texas’s unique heritage. The 22-acre institute is also home to a museum store and a living-history area known as the Back 40.
A world-class facility truly befitting the nation’s seventh-largest city is the San Antonio Museum of Art (200 W. Jones Ave., 210/978-8100, www.samuseum.org, Tues. 10am-9pm, Wed.-Sun. 10am-5pm, $10 adults, $7 seniors, $5 students and military, $3 children, free Tues. 4pm-9pm and Sun. 10am-noon). The museum, housed in the historic Lone Star Brewery building on the River Walk’s Museum Reach, contains a fascinating collection of artwork from around the world, representing all eras and formats. It’s perhaps best known for its distinct and colossal holdings in Latin American art. Located in the Nelson A. Rockefeller Center for Latin American Art (the former vice president provided his extensive collection to the museum), the facility includes an overview of more than 3,000 years of creative offerings from Mexico, Central and South America, and countries of the Caribbean. The museum’s pre-Columbian collection is particularly fascinating, with stone, ceramic, and metal objects from early Latin American groups as well as more recent works from the Maya, Aztec, Zapotec, and Inca cultures.
Another noteworthy museum section is the Egyptian gallery, where an enormous statue of the goddess Sekhmet from circa 1350 BC greets visitors. Ceramics and stone objects testify to the longevity of the artwork (many of these beautiful objects were crafted by human hands more than 3,000 years ago), and the fascination continues with the museum’s remarkable Greek and Roman art.
Well worth the five-mile jaunt north of downtown is the remarkable McNay Art Museum (6000 N. New Braunfels Ave., 210/824-5368, www.mcnayart.org, Tues.-Wed. and Fri. 10am-4pm, Thurs. 10am-9pm, Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. noon-5pm, $10 adults, $5 seniors, students, and military, children ages 12 and under free). The museum is named for Ohio-born heiress Marion Koogler McNay, who moved to San Antonio in 1926 and lived in the 24-room Spanish Revival mansion that would become the core of the museum. She collected 19th- and 20th-century European and American paintings and Southwestern art, ultimately leaving her collection of more than 700 works, her house, the surrounding 23 acres, and an endowment to establish “the first museum of modern art in Texas.” The McNay opened its doors to the public in 1954 and has since expanded to nearly 20,000 works, including medieval and Renaissance art, and an impressive collection of 19th-21st-century European and American paintings, sculptures, and photographs. The 19th- and 20th-century paintings are especially notable, with famous names and images beckoning around each corner of the mansion—don’t be surprised to encounter a Picasso, Cézanne, Matisse, Van Gogh, or Pissarro. Be sure to spend time strolling through the magnificent and lush Spanish-influenced courtyard, and check ahead to see if the museum is hosting a compelling exhibit like the New Image Sculpture.
To get a sense of what San Antonio’s high society was like at the turn of the previous century, take a walking tour through the King William Historic District (just south of downtown on the east side of the San Antonio River). Stately and ornate Victorian, Greek Revival, and Italianate homes stand on pleasant tree-lined streets in this 25-square-block area, one of the first Texas neighborhoods to be listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Even on a hot day, it’s worth taking a walking tour of the neighborhood (the enormous trees provide a shady canopy over most streets), guided by a handy brochure available at the San Antonio Conservation Society’s headquarters at the northern edge of the neighborhood (107 King William St., 210/224-6163, www.saconservation.org, Mon.-Fri. 8:30am-4:30pm).
Although a majority of the district’s homes are privately owned or renovated as bed-and-breakfasts, two significant sites are open to the public for tours. The 1859 Guenther House (205 E. Guenther St., 210/227-1061, www.guentherhouse.com, Mon.-Sat. 8am-4pm, Sun. 8am-3pm; free) is the outstanding home of the family that founded Pioneer Flour Mills—you can’t miss the gigantic factory behind it with Pioneer on the tower. The house features a small yet informative museum of milling history and a popular restaurant. A block north is Steves Homestead (509 King William St., 210/225-5924, daily 10am-3:30pm, $7.50 admission ages 13 and older, $5 seniors), a stunning three-story 1876 mansion. Guided tours showcase the home’s ornate furnishings as well as the carriage house, servants’ quarters, and the city’s first indoor swimming pool.
The magnificent San Fernando Cathedral (115 Main Plaza, 210/227-1297, www.sfcathedral.org, Mon.-Fri. 9am-5pm, Sat. 8am-7pm, Sun. 8am-6:30pm) was organized in 1731 by a group of Canary Islands families and has been a centerpiece of San Antonio ever since. This stunning building went through several incarnations before construction on its current Gothic Revival appearance was consecrated in 1873. The enormous cathedral has a distinctive European feel, with lofty arches, a gilded 24-foot-tall altar, and gigantic stained-glass windows. People gather at the church throughout the day for tours, to light candles, pray in the pews, or simply sit in wonder as they gaze upon the serene surroundings. The cathedral doesn’t function exclusively as a Catholic church; rather, it bills itself as “a center of unity and harmony for all the God-loving people of San Antonio and beyond,” drawing more than 5,000 parishioners to Mass every week.
the historic San Fernando Cathedral
Just around the corner from the cathedral is the circa 1749 Spanish Governor’s Palace (105 Military Plaza, 210/224-0601, www.sanantonio.gov, Tues.-Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. 10am-5pm, $5 adults, $3 military/seniors, $2 children ages 7-13), which served as the headquarters and residence of the presidio of San Antonio de Bexar’s captain, the ranking representative of the king of Spain in the absence of the governor. The National Geographic Society has called the palace “the most beautiful building in San Antonio,” and although it doesn’t conjure up images of princes and turrets, its three-foot-thick stuccoed stone walls are particularly striking, as are its eclectic mix of historic furniture and artifacts. The palace’s highlight, by far, is the magnificent courtyard, a natural patio with a canopy of live oaks stretching over lush tropical plants. Chirping birds, a soothing fountain, and gentle breezes transport visitors to an oasis far away from the surrounding urban environment.
the centuries-old Spanish Governor’s Palace
When you need a break from Texas history, head directly to SeaWorld (10500 SeaWorld Dr., 800/700-7786, www.seaworld.com, hours vary by season, $50-59). This 250-acre park offers a perfect destination on a hot summer day—water rides, water shows, and water games will keep the entire family entertained and slightly refreshed. The main attraction has shifted from Shamu to “Killer Whales Up Close,” which focuses more on education than glitzy feats of “skill.”
One of the park’s most popular summertime attractions is the Lost Lagoon area, a mini water park featuring a giant wave machine, a mellow tube ride, and several twisty waterslides. Kids 1-6 years old will love the Happy Harbor, a small area in the center of the park with several rides, a large ship festooned with climbing and crawling features, an infant play area, and a water zone with every kind of soaking device imaginable.
Adults can have their fun in the sun, too, by experiencing SeaWorld’s various water rides (Journey to Atlantis) and roller coasters (Steel Ell, Great White). Be sure to smile sweetly (or hold back your lunch) at the bottom of the first big hill since a camera captures everyone’s expressions for fun souvenir keepsakes.
Of course, animals are a featured attraction at SeaWorld, particularly at the exhibit areas and in shows featuring sea lions and dolphins. The penguin habitat with its replicated Antarctic environment is especially fascinating. Throughout the park families will also find (or avoid) typical amusement park fare such as midway-style games, snack stands, and gift shops.
The smooth whitewash stucco blanketing Casa Navarro State Historic Site (228 S. Laredo St., 210/226-4801, www.visitcasanavarro.com, Tues.-Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. noon-5pm, $4 adults, $3 students) doesn’t quite mesh with the blocky correctional facilities nearby. Once visitors are inside, however, this cozy home of Tejano patriot José Antonio Navarro radiates a charm not found in the urban fortresses beyond the house’s thick adobe walls. Named a National Historic Landmark in 2017, Navarro’s home reflects his simple yet refined environment, including interpretive panels, Texas law books, and other period furnishings offering insight about his family and city during the mid- to late 1800s. Most of the home was constructed circa 1848, and its acquisition by the Texas Historical Commission has helped raise the profile of the deservingly significant complex. Navarro’s service to Texas is legendary—he served in the legislature under Mexico, the Republic of Texas, and the state of Texas, and he signed the Texas Declaration of Independence in 1836 representing San Antonio. Most historians consider Navarro to be the first Tejano to write about Texas history. A recent renovation resulted in an improved visitor experience, with interactive features such as iPad games and exhibits, streamlined interpretation, and even a multisensory feature including alluring smells of food cooking in a traditional kitchen at the time.
Casa Navarro State Historic Site
The Witte Museum (3801 Broadway St., 210/357-1900, www.wittemuseum.org, Mon.-Sat. 10am-5pm, Tues. until 8pm, Sun. noon-5pm, $10 adults, $9 seniors, $7 children 4-11) focuses on South Texas history and science, and features impressive permanent and rotating galleries and hands-on exhibits. This is an ideal place to bring the kids—they’re omnipresent at this museum, especially during school hours—to learn about Texas culture. Adults will benefit from the experience, too. Not surprisingly, dinosaurs take up a big portion of the ground floor, along with other animals and fascinating aspects of nature. The 2nd floor is devoted to permanent exhibits, including displays related to mummies and the 4,000-year-old rock art of Texas’s Lower Pecos region. Outside are several historic buildings and, top on the list for kids, a four-story “tree house” featuring science experiments, demonstrations, hands-on activities, and an observation deck overlooking the San Antonio River. Keep an eye on the museum’s website for news about the anticipated mid-2017 opening of The New Witte, featuring a dinosaur hall and “Texas Wild Gallery.”
The downtown La Villita Historic District (418 Villita St., 210/207-8614, www.lavillita.com, most shops open daily 10am-6pm) reflects the Spanish, European, and Anglo influences that helped shape San Antonio’s history. Once the site of a Coahuiltecan Indian village, La Villita subsequently thrived as a residential area containing Mexican houses of caliche block or stucco-covered brick and German (and later Swiss and French) vernacular structures before the neighborhood deteriorated into a run-down barrio in the early 1900s. In 1939, La Villita was restored by the city, and, following another major renovation in the early 1980s, the neighborhood now houses scores of tourist-friendly boutiques, art galleries, and restaurants. One of the most popular attractions is the historic “Little Church,” a 19th-century stone chapel that frequently hosts weddings and festival activities.
Libraries typically aren’t tourist attractions, unless they’re historic or contain rare volumes of work. The exception is the San Antonio Central Library (600 Soledad St., 210/207-2500, Mon.-Thurs. 9am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. 11am-5pm). Known around town as “Big Red,” the library is indeed enormous (240,000 square feet) and dons the color of a red enchilada. For these reasons, it’s generated much attention (not always good) and is considered one of the city’s most important architectural accomplishments. The six-floor library was designed by renowned Mexican architect Ricardo Legorreta and rests on the footprint of an old Sears department store. Legorreta used natural light, color, water, and some unexpected angles and sight lines to create this urban cathedral of knowledge, which also features an intriguing mural by San Antonio artist Jesse Treviño, depicting a slice of life in the city during World War II.
One of the city’s biggest draws for family fun is Six Flags Fiesta Texas (at the intersection of I-10 W. and Loop 1604, 210/697-5050, www.sixflags.com, late May-late Aug. Mon.-Sat. 10am-9pm, Sun. 11am-9pm; weekend hours vary in off-season, $74 adults, $58 children under 48 inches). Most of the rides and attractions at this 200-acre facility are standard amusement park fare, but Six Flags’ nine roller coasters are the main draw, with the “floorless” Superman Krypton Coaster generating the most buzz, along with the rapidly rotating Tony Hawk’s Big Spin. The old wooden-coaster standby, the Rattler, still remains a crowd pleaser, even though park officials had to reduce the length of its first downward plunge after too many complaints about it being “too intimidating and aggressive.” The park contains several Texas-themed areas with shows and rides related to different aspects of the Lone Star State’s history (German heritage, oil boomtowns, 1950s small towns), and the entire complex is partially surrounded by 100-foot cliffs from a former limestone quarry. Six Flags Fiesta Texas also operates a water park on the grounds (included in the admission fee), which features waterslides, family raft rides, and a lazy river tube ride. The park also stages a variety of shows and concerts.
With all the other attractions San Antonio has to offer, visitors often overlook the worthy San Antonio Zoo (3903 N. St. Mary’s St., 210/734-7184, www.sazoo.org, daily 9am-5pm, $14.25 adults, $11.25 children ages 3-11). The 56-acre zoo, set among the cliffs of an old limestone quarry in Brackenridge Park, is home to more than 3,500 animals representing 600 species. The facility’s extensive exhibits include an impressive bird collection (make a point to visit the penguins), an African antelope collection, a monkey and ape area, and the only American exhibit of the endangered whooping crane. The children’s area, called the Fun Farm, is a great place for kids under five years old to get out of their strollers (and shoes and socks) to interact with the natural world by digging up worms and bugs and occasionally feeding them to nonthreatening animals like the guinea pig.
On hot summer days when an entire scorching afternoon at Six Flags or SeaWorld sounds unbearable, there’s a cool indoor alternative at the San Antonio Children’s Museum (2800 Broadway Ave., 210/212-4453, www.thedoseum.org, Mon.-Thurs. 10am-5pm, Sat. 9am-6pm, Sun. noon-5pm, $12 ages 1 and up). With more than 80 exhibits to experience, kids will be entertained most of the day, often far outlasting their parents’ patience. Fortunately, the interactive activities are well maintained and even educational. Highlights include the Explore area with maps and models, the Innovation Station featuring tools and robots, and a large supermarket area where kids can play customer and cashier.
In an enormous former warehouse complex on the city’s south side is the eye-catching and thought-provoking Blue Star Contemporary Art Center (116 Blue Star St., 210/227-6960, Thurs. noon-8pm, Fri.-Sat. noon-6pm, $5 adults, $3 seniors). Anchored by the contemporary art center, Blue Star embodies the word eclectic—from performance art to trendy jewelry to avant-garde photography and everything in between. Although the exterior of the complex is somewhat uninspiring, visitors are intrigued as soon as they step inside and are greeted by colorful, bizarre, and beautiful artwork in various mediums. Local and nationally known artists grace the walls, floors, and halls of the many distinctive galleries throughout the complex.
San Antonio’s music scene may not get the same attention as Austin’s, but it should, especially considering its eclectic mix of wide-ranging styles—conjunto, country, blues, punk, and even German polkas. For a truly authentic taste of San Antonio’s culture, however, visit the city during one of the annual festivals, when locals celebrate the many spices of life their community has to offer.
San Antonio doesn’t have an abundance of professional performing arts groups, which is odd for the seventh-largest city in the country, but not surprising considering many of its residents prefer their cultural experiences to be country and western or conjunto dancing. For a highbrow evening, however, it doesn’t get much better than the San Antonio Symphony (711 Navarro St., 210/554-1010, www.sasymphony.org), with performances at the Majestic Theatre. The symphony’s season runs late September-June and features a diverse mix of classical, pops, family, and community programs, often with high-profile guest artists.
Long considered the crown jewel of San Antonio’s performing arts venues is the stunning Majestic Theatre (224 E. Houston St., 210/226-3333, www.majesticempire.com). This magnificent 1929 facility was originally constructed as an “atmospheric” palace for vaudeville shows and the emerging motion-picture trend. It now serves as the home of the San Antonio Symphony and hosts an eclectic schedule of touring shows, from Broadway productions to world-renowned concert artists. A recent schedule of events reflects this mix: Mozart Extravaganza and former comedian Jay Leno.
The Majestic features an alluring interior described as “a Mediterranean amphitheater in a Moorish-Baroque style.” The main lobby includes ornately decorated plaster sculptures and a colossal ornamented chandelier, and the elaborate auditorium contains colorfully illuminated alcoves and grottos topped off by a simulated night sky, complete with twinkling stars and floating clouds.
Though it’s a bit out of town—about 15 miles northwest—there’s no other place in or near San Antonio quite as authentic as Floore Country Store (14492 Old Bandera Rd., 210/695-8827, www.liveatfloores.com). A sign outside this historic honky-tonk reads Willie Nelson Every Sat. Nite, and although those days are long gone, the Red-Headed Stranger still makes a point of playing occasional gigs at this big ol’ Texas dance hall. The walls are covered with photos of other country legends who have graced the stage (Ernest Tubb, Hank Williams), and the venue still hosts contemporary and classic country acts such as Lyle Lovett, Dwight Yoakam, Jack Ingram, and Bruce Robison.
Another legendary honky-tonk on the outskirts of town is the Hangin’ Tree Saloon (just northeast of San Antonio in the community of Bracken at 18424 2nd St., 210/651-5812, www.hangintree.com), which opened in 1915 as a two-lane bowling alley for nine-pin, a game popular in German pioneer communities. In 1989, mythically named Texan Big John Oaks converted the bowling alley into a roadhouse honky-tonk, using wood from the lanes to construct the bar. The stage stands where the pins were once placed. This classic venue hosts local country bands on the weekends and occasionally features well-known regional acts such as Johnny Bush, Gary P. Nunn, and Johnny Rodriguez. To get there, take FM 2252 north from Bracken, turn right at the first road past the railroad tracks, go four blocks, and then turn left.
For those who’d rather have their conversations drowned out by prerecorded sounds instead of a live band, San Antonio has several popular clubs that cater to the country and western crowd. The biggest of the bunch is Midnight Rodeo (12260 Nacogdoches Rd., 210/655-0040, www.midnightrodeosanantonio.com, closed Mon.-Tues.), an enormous complex drawing singles and couples from across South Texas. People get gussied up for a night out at the Midnight Rodeo, meaning they have their pressed jeans, Western shirts, and best boots for line dancing and two-stepping to songs from current and classic country artists.
Another heavy hitter is Cowboys Dance Hall (3030 NE Loop 410, 210/646-9378, www.cowboysdancehall.com/San-Antonio), which features a cavernous dance floor with a bonus: bull riding. Saturday nights feature a rodeo with live bull riding, and urban cowboys and cowgirls can try their eight seconds of luck on the mechanical bull at any time. The music is the big draw here, and live shows (including a bona fide house band) have thankfully replaced DJs in recent years.
San Antonio’s conjunto clubs, which specialize in accordion-based Tejano dance music, are typically found in neighborhood bars that appear unassuming during the week but get mighty spicy on weekend nights. In fact, one of the city’s most popular venues is a sports bar that just happens to have a large dance floor and disco ball for the occasion. The most popular is Reptilez Sports Bar (5418 W. Old U.S. Hwy. 90, 210/432-8840), where conjunto reigns on Sunday, thanks to the bouncy beats of house band Fred Saldana y Los Camaroneros. One of the newer venues in town is the colorful Squeezebox (2806 N. St. Mary’s St., 210/314-8805), or there’s always an old-school classic-car hangout like Sanchez Ice House (819 S. San Saba, 210/223-0588).
The River Walk is a touristy area by design, so it’s not surprising that the bars here lack some scruffy neighborhood charm. Still, when you’re out on the town in a big city, it’s often nice to have a slick place to enjoy a fancy drink and check out the nightlife. One of the best places to accomplish this along the river is the (currently unnamed) swanky bar at Hotel Valencia (150 E. Houston St., 210/227-9700), on the 2nd floor. Contemporary lighting and furnishings give the place an air of sophistication, and the sprawling scene—particularly the inviting terrace overlooking the River Walk—makes for a romantic yet vibrant experience.
Not quite as chic yet equally savory is Havana (1015 Navarro St., 210/222-2008), at the Havana Riverwalk Inn. This is an ideal place to mellow out on a soft leather couch with some light jazz music and a heavy martini. The tapas are worth ordering, particularly the empanadas, or if you’re in the mood for dessert, consider the handmade chocolate sampler.
Although it’s hard to escape the hotel scene on the River Walk, there are some places tucked away from humanity. The best of the bunch is Esquire Tavern (55 E. Commerce St, 210/222-2521, www.esquiretavern-sa.com). Dating to 1933, the Esquire is the place to go for a classic cocktail or local craft beer—especially if you can find a spot at the incredible wooden bar, reportedly the longest in Texas. Make a point to arrive at happy hour (or even lunch and dinner) to sample some of the savory bites, from fried beets to flavorful empanadas.
Those not interested in getting their swank on should head to Howl at the Moon (111 W. Crockett St., 210/212-4770, www.howlatthemoon.com), a raucous dueling piano bar where tourists regularly let loose with the abandon of being anonymous in an unknown city. Patrons “sing” along with their favorite tunes (think “Sweet Caroline,” “Crocodile Rock,” and, of course, “Piano Man”) as they’re pounded out on the ivories along with some good-natured banter. Complement the boisterous scene with a Jell-O shot or Fuzzy Navel.
San Antonio’s Latino culture takes center stage at Azuca (713 S. Alamo St., 210/225-5550), a restaurant by day and bar by night. Arrive around 10pm and take advantage of both—the classic Latin American fare and contemporary dance scene. Have a drink at the Nuevo Latino bar and shake a leg on the dance floor. Nearby is the slightly upscale yet decidedly low-key Bohanan’s Bar (221 E. Houston St., 210/271-7472), the lounge associated with an adjacent steak house. The patio is a perfect place to chill out on a warm summer evening, or belly up to the long black granite bar for a hearty cocktail. Just down the block is the comfortably upscale SoHo Wine & Martini Bar (214 W. Crockett St., 210/444-1000, www.sohomartinibar.com). This is a place to see and be seen, but since it lacks pretension, the atmosphere is refreshingly comfortable. Enjoy a live jazz band while sipping on a custom martini and soak up the sultry scene.
The winters aren’t too harsh in San Antonio, but that doesn’t stop people from enthusiastically celebrating the warmer spring weather with festivals and gatherings. One of the city’s first major annual events, Remembering the Alamo Weekend (210/273-1730), is held the first weekend of March. A stirring sunrise ceremony honors the Texans who died at the Alamo siege, and much of the daytime activity involves living-history reenactments, music, demonstrations, and food. Another distinctive event in March is the St. Patrick’s Day River Parade (210/273-1730, www.thesanantonioriverwalk.com). City officials use 35 pounds of environmentally safe green dye to tint the San Antonio River the color o’ the Irish and rechristen it River Shannon. Residents and visitors celebrate Celtic culture throughout the weekend with a pub crawl, river parade, and Irish music and dance.
The city’s biggest and best annual celebration, Fiesta San Antonio (210/227-5191, www.fiesta-sa.org), is held in April. This massive 10-day event is the cultural highlight of the year for the city and the 3.5 million people who attend the festivities, which range from colorful parades to fashion shows to art exhibits, concerts, and a legendary oyster bake. The pageants and parties are important social events, and the carnivals and galas celebrate the city’s proud Latino heritage.
Another major event drawing nearly a million people annually is the Texas Folklife Festival (801 S. Bowie, 210/458-2224, www.texancultures.com), held each June at the Institute of Texan Cultures. This event celebrates the Lone Star State’s cultural diversity through art, crafts, music, and plenty of amazing food. Cultures not always associated with Texas proudly represent the state each year, including Scotland, China, Norway, India, Greece, and the Canary Islands.
September is still summertime in San Antonio, and the biggest cultural events of the month are related to Fiestas Patrias, particularly Mexican Independence Day, also referred to as Diez y Seis (for September 16). Celebrations including dances, food booths, and carnivals take place at Market Square, La Villita, and Guadalupe Plaza.
Those in the San Antonio vicinity on November 2 shouldn’t be afraid to take part in the events of El Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead, 210/432-1896). This Mexican custom welcomes back departed family members and friends for one day through offerings (skulls made of sugar, marigolds), parades (many participants dress as skeletons), and grave decoration.
The Christmas season in San Antonio officially kicks off with the Holiday River Parade and Lighting Ceremony (210/227-4262) on the Friday after Thanksgiving. More than 122,000 colorful lights are simultaneously lit, bathing the River Walk in bright festive hues, while decorated floats glide along the sparkling water.
This is Texas after all, so San Antonio residents proudly head ’em up and move ’em out to the Stock Show and Rodeo (3201 E. Houston St., www.sarodeo.com) for two weeks in early February. All the traditional events are here—calf roping, barrel racing, bull riding—as well as popular children’s events such as the calf scramble and mutton bustin’ (sheep riding).
The River Walk is truly on the beaten path, so it shouldn’t come as a surprise that the shopping options are run-of-the-mill tourist spots offering T-shirts, knickknacks, overpriced art, and decorative furnishings. For some reason, the most popular shopping experience along the River Walk is the Rivercenter Mall (849 E. Commerce St., 210/225-0000, www.shoprivercenter.com), a three-story structure that offers a cool respite on hot days, but that’s about the only refreshing thing here. Rivercenter contains all the shops and food options found at most malls across the country, but there are a couple distinguishing features—the Rio San Antonio Cruises depart from a “lagoon” on the ground level and the IMAX theater showcases an Alamo movie to complement the real deal just around the corner.
For a more authentic San Antonio shopping experience than the River Walk, head about six blocks west to Market Square (514 W. Commerce St., 210/207-8600), referred to as the largest Mexican marketplace outside of Mexico. This bustling pedestrian area often has a south-of-the-border appearance, with roaming mariachis and hordes of street vendors selling pottery, blankets, handmade crafts, and authentic Mexican food. Speaking of food—a trip to Market Square, also referred to as El Mercado by locals, would be incomplete without stopping by Mi Tierra Cafe & Bakery (218 Produce Row, 210/225-1262, www.mitierracafe.com). Whether you’re in the mood for a sweet snack of its famous pan dulce or a hearty meal—everything from huevos rancheros to charbroiled steak—this 24-hour establishment is a must. Next door is the welcoming Mexican craft shop Los Pueblitos (202 Produce Row, 210/212-4898). This stylish two-story building is packed with colorful clothing and Latin American objects.
Falling somewhere between the River Walk and Market Square (tourist-wise, not geographically) is La Villita (418 Villita St., 210/207-8610, most shops open daily 10am-6pm). Adjacent to the River Walk, La Villita is known as much for its interesting heritage as its shopping opportunities, which run the gamut from trendy boutiques to upscale galleries to comfy cafés. The vernacular architecture adds a charming appeal to this “little village,” as do the working artisans—glassblowers, pottery spinners, and the like—who create their wares for all to see. One of the more popular shops is Casa Manos Alegres (418 Villita St., 600, 210/313-7293), offering Mexican and Guatemalan imports such as enormous colorful papier-mâché animals, quaint woodcarvings, and pottery. Another intriguing shop is Nueva Street Gallery (507 E. Nueva St., 210/229-9810), specializing in watercolor paintings, photography, handmade stoneware, and porcelain pottery. One of the best places to eat lunch in La Villita is La Villita Cafe (418 Villita St., 900, 210/223-4700, www.lavillitacafe.com), which serves fresh sandwiches and frosty ice cream.
Since Market Square is one of the largest Mexican markets outside of Mexico, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that it’s home to several of San Antonio’s best Mexican import shops. Visitors looking for Mexican goods—everything from popular guayaberas (the short-sleeved, open-collared shirts worn in most tropical locales) to copper sinks and tin ornaments to Mexican wrestling masks—have plenty to choose from around here. For the basics, head to Perales Mexican Imports (514 W. Commerce St., 210/223-4802) or Naturaleza Celestial (514 W. Commerce St., 210/227-9254). For something unique, drop by Aztec Mexican Imports (888/522-8434, www.oldmexicoinc.com), which specializes in talavera goods. Talavera is a white glazed ceramic with simple or colorfully decorated designs on everything from plates and bowls to tile and furnishings. The jewelry selection is impressive at La Perla (514 W. Commerce St., 210/299-8108), and shoppers can find sterling silver jewelry, Latin American embroidered clothing, and handcrafted products at Cozumel Arts & Crafts (514 W. Commerce St., 210/228-0445).
In a city famous for its Western heritage, it’s quite a compliment to be considered a highly respected boot maker. Such is the case with Lucchese (255 E. Basse Rd., 210/828-9419, www.lucchese.com), which claims to have outfitted “all the great cowboys, including Gene Autry and John Wayne” with their handsome boots. This fancy footwear has been custom made since 1883 with top-notch leather, lemon-wood pegs, and quality finishing (you can ask for your initials to be stitched or inlayed). These boots take time, but customers claim it’s totally worth it—especially considering how many years they’ll last. Lucchese has a retail store in the Alamo Quarry Market with stock-sized boots, shirts, cowboy hats, belts, and other Western accessories.
Another local legend is Little’s Boots (110 Division Ave., 210/923-2221, www.littlesboots.com), another family operation that’s been in business for nearly a century. Little’s specializes in custom boot making but also provides special makeups and made-to-measure boots. Customers can choose from a variety of non-PC materials—kangaroo, ostrich, alligator, lizard, and eel—or simply have their worn-out boots repaired here.
If you’re on Alamo Plaza, drop by the Menger Hotel to take a gander at the impressive Western apparel at Silver Spur (212 Alamo Plaza, 210/472-2210, www.silverspurboutique.com). If sparkly things catch your eye, this is the place to go—much of the clothing is embedded with rhinestones and crystals, perfect for a night out on the town. Silver Spur also has a limited selection of clothing for men as well as an extensive jewelry collection, hats, belts, handbags, and other accessories.
Not quite as charming but appealing in its immense size and selection is the chain option of Boot Barn (two locations: 3127 Military Dr., 210/338-8907 and 6201 NW Loop 410, 210/681-8230, www.bootbarn.com). These stores are practically warehouses of Western clothing items, including decent yet moderately priced boots, cowboy hats, jeans, shirts, belts, and the obligatory big buckles.
San Antonio’s warm weather throughout most of the year makes it an ideal place for outdoor recreation. The city’s biggest claim to sports fame, the five-time NBA champion San Antonio Spurs, plays indoors at the raucous AT&T Center, but residents also enjoy attending or participating in sporting events outside, including the Missions minor league baseball team, golfing, hiking, biking, and strolling through the city’s colorful gardens.
Who needs all four major sports leagues in town when you have Mexican rodeo? This exquisite custom captures everything essential about a sporting event—drama, heroics, compassion, and grace. The San Antonio Charro Association (210/846-8757, www.sacharro.com) promotes monthly charreadas March-October. Don’t miss seeing the daring and graceful charros in action on horses, bulls, and wild mares. One of the most jaw-droppingly suspenseful acts is el paso de la muerte (“the pass of death”), where a charro tries to leap from his own bareback horse to a wild bareback horse (all without reins) and ride it until it stops bucking. The death-defying element? All the while, three other mounted charros are chasing the wild mare around the arena. As if all this weren’t enough, sometimes the charros perform this act backward just for show. This event, along with other macho roping and riding feats, are tempered with the beauty and grace of the Escaramuza equestriennes. Check the website for show dates and locations.
The San Antonio Spurs (210/444-5000, www.nba.com/spurs) are the city’s only professional sports franchise, and they’re beloved by most residents. The team remains in an unusually long run of success (stretching back to the early 2000s), so it’s been common to see Spurs playoff stickers, banners, and T-shirts and hear the chant “Go! Spurs! Go!” across town for more than a decade. In their nearly 40 years on the court, the Spurs have won 20 division titles (the most in the NBA during that time), yet they’re often frustratingly overlooked as a basketball powerhouse on the national sports scene. The team plays at the AT&T Center just east of downtown.
The San Antonio Missions (210/675-7275, www.samissions.com) are a minor league baseball team in a city that has a major affinity for baseball. Despite efforts to lure a major league team to San Antonio, the only professional outlet for fans is the Missions, which play in the Texas League at the AA level (two below the big leagues) and are affiliated with the San Diego Padres. The team remains a popular draw, with fans regularly filling 6,300-capacity Wolff Stadium just west of town (5757 U.S. Hwy. 90 W.), although a handful in attendance will admit to being there simply to see “Henry the Puffy Taco” race the kids around the bases during the seventh-inning stretch. The team plays April-September.
Golf is apparently popular across the country, but in semitropical areas like San Antonio, where the game can be played year-round on fairways lined with palm trees, it’s even more of an obsession. The city boasts more than two dozen golf courses—private, public, and municipal—drawing hordes of golfers.
For a comprehensive list of courses throughout the city, including directions, ratings, greens fee information, and golfers’ comments, visit www.sanantoniogolf.com. Those looking for a scenic and somewhat-challenging round of golf may want to consider The Quarry (444 E. Basse Rd., 210/824-4500, www.quarrygolf.com). This course, rated one of America’s Top State Golf Courses by Golf Digest, is just 10 minutes from downtown. The front nine has long, open holes with several water hazards, and the back nine winds through a former rock quarry, with 100-foot walls as a backdrop.
One of the city’s most pleasant destinations is the inviting San Antonio Botanical Garden (555 Funston Pl., 210/207-3250, www.sabot.org, daily 9am-5pm, $8 adults, $6 seniors/military/students, $5 children ages 3-13). Texas’s diverse landscape is well represented here, with native wildflowers, grasses, bushes, and trees demonstrating the variety of foliage in the Lone Star State. Visitors experience individual environments, a large courtyard, and a pond. The 33-acre complex also includes a tearoom, gift shop, and impressive conservatory, offering nearly 100,000 square feet of display space that visitors access through a tunnel leading 16 feet belowground to several greenhouse areas dedicated to the tropics, the desert, palms, and ferns.
Another popular expanse of public green space is Brackenridge Park (3910 N. St. Mary’s St., 210/207-7275, www.brackenridgepark.org, daily 5am-11pm). This century-old, 344-acre park is a busy place on weekends, but there’s plenty to do, so crowds are well dispersed; however, most tend to congregate in the three main areas—the San Antonio Zoo, Brackenridge Golf Course, and the Japanese Tea Gardens. The Tea Gardens are well worth visiting. This natural oasis contains lush foliage, stone bridges, a 60-foot waterfall, carp ponds, and shaded walkways. The name was changed to “Chinese Tea Gardens” during World War II, and it was also known as Sunken Gardens before reclaiming its original name. Other park highlights include a 3.5-mile miniature train known as the Brackenridge Eagle; the Skyride, a cable car system providing aerial views of the city and zoo; and a 60-horse carousel. Otherwise, the park offers standard features such as hike and bike trails, plenty of sport courts and fields, playgrounds, and picnic facilities.
The food is fabulous in San Antonio, and not surprisingly, the focus is on Mexican restaurants. The sheer number of Mex-related eateries (Tex-Mex, Cal-Mex, Interior Mex, etc.) can be overwhelming, so check out www.saeats.com or pick up a San Antonio Current, the city’s alternative weekly tab, to get a better handle on the latest restaurants in each category and where they’re located. Fortunately, several well-regarded eating establishments have additional locations on the touristy River Walk, and other downtown areas offer some of the highest-quality Mexican food in Texas.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Just because you’re a few hours from the Rio Grande doesn’t mean you have to eat Mexican food all the time. At least one meal a day can be set aside for other gastronomical considerations, and in a touristy area like the River Walk, the best bet is often a good ol’ American-style restaurant with a local twist.
With that in mind, make a point to stop by the Esquire Tavern (55 E. Commerce St, 210/222-2521, www.esquiretavern-sa.com, Sun.-Wed. 11:30am-midnight, Thurs-Sat. 11:30am-2am, $10-24). Dating to 1933, the Esquire is known for its amazing wooden bar, reportedly the longest in Texas, but it’s also garnering attention for its innovative cuisine. Start with the fried pickled beets or tacos con papas (potatoes), then proceed to a classic hearty burger (the organic bison is a special treat) or the immensely tasty “big red empanada,” packed with short rib meat and tomatillo salsa and topped with a chimichurri sauce.
For a fancy dining experience, consider Boudro’s (421 E. Commerce St., 210/224-8484, www.boudros.com, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-11pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-midnight, $17-39). Not many places on the river can entice locals to wade through the throngs of River Walkers, but since Boudro’s does, be sure to call ahead for a reservation. If you’re looking for a little local flavor, start with a prickly pear margarita accompanied by chips and fresh-made guacamole prepared at your table (note the fresh squeeze of orange as opposed to lemon or lime—the difference is subtle yet spectacular). Entrées run the gamut from seafood to steaks to upscale Southwestern dishes, and Boudro’s desserts, including bread pudding, flan, and crème brûlée, are legendary.
Another upscale eatery drawing townies through its doors is Biga on the Banks (203 S. St. Mary’s St., 210/225-0722, www.biga.com, Sun.-Thurs. 5:30pm-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 5:30pm-11pm, $17-40). Off the trampled path in the city’s former central library, Biga’s has established a reputation for serving some of the finest cuisine in the state (the late Gourmet magazine named it one of the top five restaurants in Texas). Enjoy complimentary champagne upon arrival as you browse the impressive menu of savory items, including smoked pork chops, seared tuna, roasted lamb, grilled steaks, and wild game. Many dishes are accompanied by bold touches such as curry sauces and foie gras. Be sure to make reservations to ensure a seat at this exquisite establishment.
The River Walk would be an incomplete Texas tradition without a barbecue restaurant in the mix. Some of the best San Antonio has to offer is at the County Line (111 W. Crockett St., 210/229-1941, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-11pm, $12-25). This is authentic Texas-style ’cue, so load up on tender brisket, meaty beef ribs, and flavorful sausage, accompanied by classic sides like potato salad and coleslaw. Wash it all down with a cold Shiner Bock or Dr Pepper.
It’s difficult to narrow down the ultimate Mexican food in the restaurant capital of a Hispanic-flavored town like San Antonio, but several spots float to the top of the River Walk scene due to their long-standing reputation for consistent quality and service. Among them are Casa Rio (430 E. Commerce St., 210/225-6718, www.casa-rio.com, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-11pm, $11-25). Considered the first-ever restaurant on the River Walk (open since 1946), this venerable institution is a great place to get started on your Tex-Mex adventure in San Antonio. Interior walls and patio umbrellas radiate festive colors, complementing the equally tantalizing food. You can’t go wrong with the basics here—the beef tacos, chicken enchiladas, pork tamales, and cheesy quesadillas are perfecto, especially when accompanied by a refreshing margarita or Mexican cerveza. Snag a seat on the patio for optimal people watching and ambience, and be sure to arrive early since the standard wait at noon and 6pm is typically 30-45 minutes.
Another classic Tex-Mex spot with an amazing deck overlooking the riverbank is Rio Rio Cantina (421 E. Commerce St., 210/226-8462, www.rioriocantina.com, Sun.-Thurs. 9:30am-11pm, Fri.-Sat. 9:30am-midnight, $10-24). Bring your appetite, since the portions here are enormous. Bring some patience, too, since the food can take awhile to arrive (just order another margarita while you’re waiting). Fortunately, the food is tasty, especially the chicken enchiladas with green salsa, the camarones Yucateco (spicy shrimp), and even the standard fajita plate, containing enough beef and chicken to feed an entire crew on one of the passing river barges. Kids will love the quesadillas, and their parents will appreciate the noisy chatter drowning out their incessant questions about the pervasive pigeons.
Those looking for a step up from the standard Tex-Mex fare should head directly to the remarkable S Acenar (146 E. Houston St., 210/222-2362, www.acenar.com, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-11pm, $14-30). This is one of the largest restaurants on the River Walk, and its multiple levels and tables are consistently packed with diners enjoying the stellar view and stunning Mexican food with a distinctive twist. Tacos are packed with unconventional fillings like crab and oyster, and any dish with the savory mole sauce is magnificent. The duck crepes are well worth trying, and the entomatadas (a chicken and sweet potato-filled tortilla covered in an astounding roasted tomato sauce with queso fresco) are a culinary highlight. Accompany your meal with one of Acenar’s signature “hand-shaken” margaritas, and try to save room for the exquisite tres leches cake or coconut flan.
At the far northern edge of the River Walk’s Museum Reach, the Pearl Brewery complex is a sight to behold. The surrounding facilities (eateries, in particular) have been attracting local regulars and out-of-town visitors for years, but the new restaurants are among the best in town. Note: Several establishments are closed on Monday.
Garnering much attention and rave reviews is S La Gloria Ice House (100 E. Grayson St., 210/267-9040, www.lagloriaicehouse.com, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri-Sat. 11am-midnight, $9-26). Now that Mexico is essentially off-limits to tourists, one of the safest ways to experience authentic Mexican “street food” is at a restaurant like La Gloria. Designed like a Mexican mercado taco stand (despite the fact it’s near a historic brewhouse alongside a river with a mini waterfall), La Gloria specializes in delicious tacos, gorditas, and tortas prepared in the regionally diverse styles of street vendors from across Mexico. A key thing to keep in mind before ordering: Tacos come three per order, so resist the temptation to sample everything on the menu and start with just one or two (they’ll get cold if they arrive all at once, and you’re encouraged to place additional orders during your visit). Though everything here is just as good as it sounds on the menu, some of the more notable dishes include the al pastor pork tacos, the crispy-battered fish tacos, the tacos potosinos (rolled tortillas in chile sauce with fried carrots and potatoes), and the avocado tlayuda (pizza). Another immensely popular and flavorful menu item is the tamal del dia, featuring a seasoned meat combined with spices (cinnamon, cloves) and fruit (apricots, dates) and all wrapped up in a banana leaf. Que sabor!
Also on-site at the Pearl complex is the contemporary Italian restaurant Il Sogno (200 E. Grayson St., 210/223-3900, Tues.-Fri. 7am-10am, 11:30am-3pm, and 6pm-9:30pm, Sat.-Sun. 9:30am-3pm and 6pm-9pm, $11-31). This somewhat-small locale is always bustling with activity, thanks in large part to the open kitchen and closely placed tables. Menu highlights include a diverse cheese and antipasti plate, a wide variety of fresh pizzas (the margherita is especially flavorful), and duck ravioli.
If you’re not in the mood for a lengthy meal, head to the nearby Nao (312 Pearl Pkwy., 210/554-6484, www.naorestaurant.com, $11-31). Featuring upscale Latin American-inspired fare from the Culinary Institute of America’s kitchen (the institute has a branch of its campus at the Pearl complex), the restaurant offers a wonderful place to sample the tasty creations from students, including beer-braised octopus, jicama tacos, and ahi tuna tiradito.
If you’re visiting on a weekend, be sure to stop by the Pearl Farmers Market (next to La Gloria, Sat. 9am-1pm and Sun. 10am-2pm, rain or shine). Market vendors are from the area and offer their own fresh, local, and seasonal products. Booths include a bevy of vegetable stands as well as fruits, meats, herbs, baked goods, and other local edibles (pecans, goat cheese, eggs, jams, and salsas).
Although it’s no longer in its off-kilter, slantedly enchanted location, San Antonio’s Liberty Bar (1111 S. Alamo St., 210/227-1187, www.liberty-bar.com, Mon.-Fri. 11am-midnight, Sat.-Sun. 9am-midnight, $12-28) still merits mention for its creative and high-quality cuisine. Fortunately, the food remains straight-up tremendous, even in its salmon-colored former-convent building, with a focus on sauced and seasoned meats (pot roast, lamb sausage, herbed chicken). Little things done extremely well—bread, spreads, iced tea—make a big impression, and the vegetables are always perfectly prepared. The Liberty draws its largest crowds on Sunday morning for its legendary brunch (served 10:30am-2pm), with sumptuous egg dishes and the perfect piece of French toast.
The stunningly sweeping views are the main course at Chart House (739 E. Cesar Chavez Blvd., 210/223-3101, www.chart-house.com, $12-32), the revolving restaurant atop the Tower of the Americas. Normally, these eateries in the round aren’t known for their top-notch food, but the selections here are impressive. Since the restaurant is owned by Landry’s, a seafood establishment, most of the menu options are of the surf and turf variety, including the tasty shrimp dishes. Incidentally, the tower is 750 feet high and was built in 1968 especially for the HemisFair. A “4-D” multisensory theater is on the ground level.
It may not be a native-born eatery, but when it comes to preparing a perfect steak, Texans and visitors from around the globe line up for Morton’s (300 E. Crockett St., 210/228-0700, www.mortons.com, Mon.-Thurs. 5:30pm-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 5:30pm-11pm, Sun. 5pm-10pm, $18-43). Morton’s looks, smells, and tastes exactly like an upscale steak house should—dark wood, tuxedoed waitstaff, clanging steak knives, and delectable cuts of prime beef. Highlights include the porterhouse, double-cut filet mignon, and the bone-in prime rib.
One of the city’s traditional alternative spots is Madhatters (320 Beauregard St., 210/212-4832, www.madhatterstea.com, Mon.-Thurs. 7am-6pm, Fri.-Sat. 8am-9pm, Sun. 9am-3pm, $5-11). A teahouse turned café, this Alice in Wonderland-inspired café is a little warped, in a metaphorical sense. The incredible variety of teas are still the focal point here, but the healthy salads and tasty sandwiches are causing customers to avoid being late for an important date at Madhatters. One more: The spinach mad scramble with a side of fresh-squeezed orange juice will leave you grinning like the Cheshire Cat.
For a traditional family getaway, take a trip to The Cove (606 W. Cypress St., 210/227-2683, www.thecove.us, Tues.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-11pm, Sun. 11am-9pm, $9-22). Located just north of downtown, The Cove has an Austin vibe, with an emphasis on organic ingredients, kids’ meals, plenty of veggie options, quality beer selections, live music, a safe and visible playscape, and the weirdness of having a laundromat and car wash on-site. Beyond the comfy and eclectic scene, the food is outstanding—opt for the fish taco or spinach salad combo, Texas burger (local beef with refried beans, corn chips, salsa, and avocado), accompanied by sweet potato fries with Sriracha mayo.
If you’re already on the River Walk’s Mission Reach, make a point to stop by the Blue Star Brewing Company (1414 S. Alamo St., 210/212-5506, www.bluestarbrewing.com, Tues.-Thurs. 11am-11pm, Fri. 11am-midnight, Sat. 10am-midnight, Sun. 11am-9pm, $9-21). The beers are the main draw here—the best of the bunch are the Cinco Peso Pale Ale, the Belgian-style King William Ale, and the perfectly dry Southtown Sour. The food is fairly standard, but highlights include the brisket tacos, porterhouse pork chop, and Frito pie.
The gigante selection of fine Mexican restaurants in San Antonio is overwhelming; fortunately, there’s an ideal combo plate for everyone. The fun part is the discovery. A great place to start is S Rosario’s Mexican Cafe (910 S. Alamo St., 210/223-1806, www.rosariossa.com, Mon.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-11pm, Sun. 11am-9pm, $10-24), on the edge of the King William Historic District. The food here is a bit more contemporary than traditional cheesy enchiladas and tacos, and that’s what’s so appealing about it. Instead of greasy beef, there’s fresh avocado. Many dishes contain pleasant surprises (diced cactus, exotic peppers, a touch of cinnamon) rather than bland standbys (rice, beans). The deliciously smoky roasted-pepper salsa that comes to the table with the tortilla chips is a good indication of the quality to come. The spectacular chile relleno contains a tantalizing blend of flavors—a slight bite from the ranchero sauce is tempered by the sweet raisin undertones—and the chile itself is perfectly breaded. You’ll eat it all the way to the stem. On weekend nights, Rosario’s becomes a hot spot for the singles scene, with salsa, merengue, and jazz bands playing for enthusiastic dancing crowds.
More traditional yet similarly compelling is Mi Tierra Cafe & Bakery (218 Produce Row, 210/225-1262, www.mitierracafe.com, open 24 hours, $9-20), the legendary 24-hour Market Square restaurant. The scene here is worth the visit alone—the ceilings are decked out with Christmas lights, and mariachis stroll the grounds crooning their canciones. A lot of people come here just for the tasty dulces (sweet breads) and impressive tequila selection, but the food is worth sticking around for, too. Pastry fans should order an empanada de calabaza (a pumpkin turnover). The homemade tortillas are soft and flavorful, and the standard combo plates with enchiladas, tacos, and tamales are an ideal way to get a classic Tex-Mex fix. Be sure to get a perfect pecan praline or a to-go pastry for a tasty late-night snack.
Azuca Nuevo Latina (713 S. Alamo St., 210/225-5550, www.azuca.net, Mon.-Thurs. 11am-9:30pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-5:30pm, Sun. 5pm-9:30pm, $11-27) specializes in Latin American and Caribbean food, a nice change of pace for those fed up with the typical Mexican dishes. In the King William Historic District, Azuca is a busy spot that consistently ends up on annual “best-of” lists. Locals and out-of-towners drop by regularly for the contemporary take on Latin classics, such as the mixed meat grill (chicken, beef, pork, and sausage), pork loin, and just about anything with plantains and coconut shrimp. The curry Latino offers an intriguing blend of spices and seafood, and even the steaks have a Caribbean marinated flavor. Stick around for the salsa, mojitos, and merengue bands on weekend nights.
Another local Tex-Mex institution is La Fonda on Main (2415 N. Main Ave., 210/733-0621, www.lafondaonmain.com, Mon.-Thurs. 11am-9:30pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-10:30pm, Sun. 10:30am-9:30pm, $10-25). Be sure you go to the Main Avenue location, since other (unaffiliated) La Fondas in town don’t offer nearly the same quality of food. This excellent restaurant is in a historic building on the near-north side of town, and it’s an ideal place for people who want to explore the Mexican-food scene without getting too adventurous. The menu features standard Tex-Mex, albeit with a slightly more upscale approach (fancier tortillas, sauces in zigzag patterns), and classic interior Mexican fare (mole dishes, black beans). The margaritas are some of the best in town, and if the weather’s nice, be sure to grab a spot on the patio.
Sometimes, the hustle of a downtown urban area can be too much of a bustle, especially if you’re looking for a fancy meal in a quieter environment. One of the favorite destinations for locals is the expensive yet consistently excellent Silo Elevated Cuisine (434 N. Loop 1604 E., 210/483-8989, www.siloelevatedcuisine.com, daily 11am-3pm and 5:30pm-10pm, $15-40). It’s called Silo and Elevated for a reason—this stylish restaurant sits in a lofty second-story perch accessible via elevator, and the quality of the food ascends beyond the city’s other upscale options. Not surprisingly, the wine selection is superb (the waitstaff will bring several sample glasses if you’re feeling indecisive), as are the entrées, including premium steaks, shrimp and grits, seared yellowfin tuna, and Silo’s famous chicken-fried oysters. Silo also features live entertainment several nights a week. Reservations are strongly recommended.
For some of the best craft beer in the region, head directly to Freetail Brewing Co. (4035 N. Loop 1604 W., 210/395-4974, www.freetailbrewing.com, Mon-Sat. 11am-midnight, Sun. noon-midnight, $10-26). Named after Texas’s official flying mammal (the Mexican free-tailed bat), this locale aptly represents the state’s eclectic culture and influences. The brews are largely seasonal here, so expect some hearty homemade porters during the cooler winter months and crisp pilsners on the patio in summertime. Local favorites include the Rye Wit (a flavorful wheat beer), the smoky Rubio Fumando, and a purple-tinged prickly pear variety. The waitstaff is knowledgeable and friendly, so be sure to ask them for suggestions based on your experience and willingness to experiment. While there, you may also be interested in eating. Fortunately, Freetail’s food is on par with its beers, so load up on quality pub grub like nachos, pepper fries, mac and cheese, and pizza (the barbecue brisket pie is especially cheesy and delicious).
San Antonio is teeming with can’t-miss Mexican restaurants, but it’s well worth making the 15-minute drive north from downtown to experience Los Barrios (4223 Blanco Rd., 210/732 6017, Mon.-Thurs. 10am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 10am-11pm, Sun. 9am-10pm, $9-17). Start things off with a smooth and tangy margarita to accompany the warm chips and Argentina-style garlicky pesto salsa. Puffy tacos are the specialty here, and the enchiladas are highly recommended—opt for the rich and flavorful chicken mole or hearty Mexicana sauce. The fresh homemade tortillas and flautas are also excellent choices. Food Network fans will appreciate the fact that Bobby Flay “Threw Down” with Los Barrios (and lost). Don’t be surprised if the owners drop by to make sure everything is perfecto.
Named by Texas Monthly as one of the top five Mexican restaurants in the state, SoLuna (7959 Broadway St., 210/930-8070, www.solunasa.com, Mon. 11:30am-9pm, Tues.-Fri. 11:30am-10pm, Sat.-Sun 8am-9pm, $13-31) offers consistently tasty cuisine with an emphasis on the country’s interior influences. The chile en nogoda (a poblano pepper with beef or pork seasoned with spices and cooked fruits) is an especially memorable dish, and the pescado veracruzana is a simple yet exquisite snapper fillet with capers, olives, and tomatoes. SoLuna’s takes enchiladas to a whole new level, and the best way to sample the goodness is via the SoLuna special, featuring three enchiladas with tantalizingly different cream-based sauces.
Seemingly better suited for Austin than San Antonio is the organic-minded Twin Sisters Bakery & Cafe (6322 N. New Braunfels Ave., 210/822-0761, www.twinsistersbakeryandcafe.com, Mon.-Fri. 7am-9pm, Sat. 7am-2pm, Sun. 9am-2pm, $5-16). Although it has a strong veggie focus, carnivores can still find some meat to devour at this comfy spot. Favorites among the herbivore crowd include a tasty avocado sandwich and Greek salad, while meat eaters enjoy the enchiladas and stews. Omnivores will love the fresh-baked items, including muffins, breads, pies, and cookies. On weekends, Twin Sisters transforms into a mellow hangout with live acoustic music.
Step back in time with a visit to Texas Pride Barbecue (2980 TX-1604 Loop, Adkins, 210/649-3730, www.texaspridebbq.net, Tues.-Wed. 11am-8pm, Thurs.-Sat. 11am-9pm, Sun. 11am-6pm, $12-32). This old-school ’cue joint is an authentic throwback, complete with vintage equipment and traditional flavors in a rural venue. Order your meats by the pound (a half pound of the mesquite-smoked brisket and pork ribs is a good way to go) and walk your tray to a picnic table outside. If you’re there on a weekend, be sure to stick around for some authentic live country music and two-steppin’ with the locals.
Texas Pride Barbecue
San Antonio is perhaps the best city in Texas for downtown lodging within walking distance from major tourist attractions. The River Walk is teeming with a wide range of accommodations, and although the city’s historic downtown hotels are somewhat more expensive, it’s worth the extra $40-50 for a memorable experience in a vibrant urban environment. For those looking to save a few bucks, there are myriad affordable chain options about 20 minutes outside of downtown on Loop 410, especially on the north side of the city near the airport.
It’s difficult to find a worthy bargain hotel in downtown San Antonio, but there are a few options that offer basic amenities. Be forewarned: These spots tend to be pretty noisy due to freeway, train, and kiddo traffic. Regardless, the best of the bunch is Red Roof Inn (1011 E. Houston St., 210/229-9973, www.redroof.com, $99 d), about a 10-minute walk (under the freeway) from Alamo Plaza. The hotel offers complimentary Wi-Fi Internet access in all rooms, a free continental breakfast, and an outdoor pool.
Within a mile of the River Walk are two other budget options that feature prime locations instead of top-notch amenities and service. They are Days Inn Downtown (1500 S. I-35, exit 154B, 210/271-3334, www.dayssanantonio.com, $99 d), including a free breakfast, an outdoor pool, and free wireless Internet access. The other is the minimal and budget-priced Kinghts Inn (1025 Frio St., 210/226-8666, www.knightsinn.com, $50 d), offering complimentary wireless Internet access and a heated outdoor pool.
If you’re planning to stay downtown, you may as well be in a hotel directly on the River Walk, where all the activity is merely a step away from the hotel lobby. Fortunately, there are several moderately priced options offering reliable service and clean, compact rooms. A longtime family favorite is Holiday Inn (217 N. St. Mary’s St., 210/224-2500, www.holidayinn.com, $149 d), smack-dab in the middle of the action. The hotel has a small yet comfortable heated outdoor pool and whirlpool, free Internet access, an exercise facility, and on-site parking. A nicer alternative is the towering Wyndham Riverwalk (111 Pecan St. E., 210/354-2800, www.wyndham.com, $149 d), offering Internet access in all rooms, a heated rooftop pool, sauna, and whirlpool, and a full fitness center.
Most of the River Walk hotels fall in this price range, although it’s worth checking the discount travel websites since many of the following recommended locations are often available for $30-40 less. For those who like a little touch of home with their hotel experience, consider the fully equipped kitchen suites at Residence Inn (425 Bonham St., 210/212-5555, www.marriott.com, $189 d). Near the Alamo, the hotel also offers complimentary Internet access, a free breakfast buffet in the morning, and a weekday special (5pm-7pm) providing complimentary beverages and a light dinner.
A clean, reliable, amenity-filled choice is Hyatt Place Riverwalk (601 S. St. Mary’s St., 210/227-6854, www.hyatt.com, $188 d), downtown on the San Antonio River, just not in the thick of the River Walk activity. The rooms here are fairly large and feature microwaves, refrigerators, a separate workspace, and free wireless Internet access. The hotel also offers a free hot breakfast buffet, an outdoor heated swimming pool, and free parking (a bonus for a downtown establishment).
Another nice option in the middle of all the action is the Drury Plaza Hotel (105 S. St. Mary’s St., 210/270-7799, www.druryhotels.com, $199 d). Housed in the stately 24-story Alamo Bank Building, the hotel covers an entire city block and retains much of its 1929 elegance and style (lofty ceilings, travertine flooring, chandeliers, and stained-glass windows) along with its legendary rooftop weather spire. The Drury offers free wireless Internet service in all rooms, a complimentary hot breakfast, free evening beverages 5:30pm-7pm daily, and an outdoor rooftop whirlpool and swimming pool, billed as the highest swimming pool in San Antonio.
A reliable hotel in a great location is Homewood Suites (432 W. Market St., 210/222-1515, www.homewoodsuitesriverwalk.com, $175 d). This prime location is ideal for those traveling with kids since it includes fully equipped kitchens for snack storage and storing/reheating leftovers, separate living and sleeping rooms to facilitate earlier bedtimes, plus complimentary Internet access in all rooms and a free hot breakfast every morning.
If you’re willing to shell out some extra cash, the upscale lodging options along the River Walk will ensure a memorable stay in San Antonio.
One of the most distinctive and classy locations is the stylish S Hotel Valencia (150 E. Houston St., 210/227-9700, www.hotelvalencia.com, $229 d). This 213-room contemporary luxury hotel bills itself as “classic meets hip,” and rightfully so. Corridors and rooms are shadowy (too dark at times) with dramatic lighting and trendy detailing. Guests won’t want to leave their room thanks to the exceptional city views, minibar, free Internet access, and luxurious linens; even the bathrooms are welcoming, with their classic bathtubs and waffle-weave robes. Another bonus: The Valencia is at the end of the River Walk, so crowds aren’t much of an issue (unless the adjacent nightclub is thumping into the wee hours of the night). This is a good romantic spot for couples, not families looking for a fun getaway.
A popular mainstream option is the Hyatt Regency (123 Losoya St., 210/222-1234, www.sanantonioregency.hyatt.com, $239 d). At the gateway to the River Walk just a block away from the Alamo, the Hyatt is a modest-size hotel with a 16-story atrium and rooftop terrace offering an outdoor swimming pool, spa, and adjoining 2,800-square-foot health club. Rooms are decked out in Southwestern-style decor and include a fridge, microwave, and Wi-Fi access. The hotel also has a swingin’ jazz club on the riverbank with cool outdoor seating.
A consistently reliable and oft-recommended option is the welcoming Westin (420 W. Market St., 210/224-6500, www.starwoodhotels.com, $239 d), which distinguishes itself from other chain options on the River Walk by showcasing the region’s Latin American culture. Guests are greeted with Venezuelan specialty chocolates; a traditional la merienda (high tea) features roasted Mexican coffees, hot cocoas, aguas frescas, and Mexican cookies in the lobby (Tues.-Sat. 3:30pm-5:30pm); and a Spanish classical guitarist croons on weekends. The rooms are inviting, too, with historic Texas decor, big comfy beds, marble bathrooms, and views of the river and city. The Westin also features an outdoor heated pool, a fitness center, and a sauna.
A truly memorable experience awaits at Hotel Havana (1015 Navarro St., 210/222-2008, www.havanasanantonio.com, $276-380). Nestled inside a building constructed in 1914 are 27 rooms featuring pine floors and decorated with antique furniture and vintage Cuban artwork. Each room also contains a stocked minibar with local and international snacks and drinks, and complimentary Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs, and iPod connections for movies and music.
Housed in the fancy 1883 Dullnig Building is the 17-room Riverwalk Vista (262 Losoya St., 210/223-3200, www.riverwalkvista.com, $149 and up d), a luxury boutique hotel less than a block from the River Walk. The more-affordable rooms are pretty small, but the hotel’s historic decor and thoughtful amenities make it an extremely worthwhile experience. Rooms include bottled water (always a nice touch) as well as feather blankets, cordless phones, ottomans, and fancy bathrooms containing bathrobes, slate showers, lighted makeup mirrors, and plush cotton towels. The Vista’s food is also a big draw—fresh-baked cookies are served every afternoon (along with glasses of wine), and the mega breakfasts include empanadas, quiche, muffins, cereal, and fruit.
Directly behind the Alamo is the remarkable S Crockett Hotel (320 Bonham St., 210/225-6500, www.crocketthotel.com, $149 d). This magnificent downtown historic establishment is in the heart of all the action, just steps away from the Alamo (18 paces, according to hotel reps) and a five-minute leisurely stroll from the River Walk. The lobby area is modest yet welcoming, and the rooms are tastefully decorated, with soothing colors and boutique-style features such as interior shutters and regional artwork. The Crockett’s amenities include free Internet access and a complimentary breakfast offering a tasty egg casserole, pastries, fresh fruit, and cereal.
The second-most famous building on Alamo Plaza is the outstanding S Menger Hotel (204 Alamo Plaza, 210/223-4361, www.mengerhotel.com, $161 d). This significant and highly recommended 1859 hotel sits just across the street from the Alamo and has been a destination for travelers, ranchers, and dignitaries throughout its illustrious 160-year history. The busy Victorian-era lobby conjures up memories of San Antonio’s bygone bustling heyday, when famous guests such as Babe Ruth, Mae West, and Theodore Roosevelt walked the halls (some claim their ghosts now do the roaming). Roosevelt’s experience at the hotel is well documented with photos and news clips, especially in the Menger Bar, where he recruited Rough Riders and shot a couple bullets in the wall (the holes are still there). The hotel proudly boasts having downtown San Antonio’s largest heated swimming pool, a wonderful place to take a dip at night under the stars (don’t forget to pack a swimsuit!). Aside from these distinctive amenities, the hotel also features charming historic rooms, most with extremely high ceilings, antique furnishings, quality bedding, and fantastic views of the Alamo, courtyard, or pool. Additional amenities include a full-service spa, a fitness room, a Jacuzzi, and free Wi-Fi access.
the historic Menger Hotel
Billing itself as the “Jewel of San Antonio” is the Fairmount Hotel (401 S. Alamo St., 210/224-8800, www.thefairmounthotel-sanantonio.com, $150 d). This magnificent 1906 Victorian-style hotel is a block away from La Villita, the historic neighborhood turned shopping area, and just down the street from the River Walk and the Alamo. The Fairmount features 37 individually decorated rooms and suites enveloped in a stately brick building with wrought-iron verandas. The lobby area overlooks a jeweled granite and marble courtyard with a fountain and palmetto trees, offering a romantic place for garden seating. Most of the Fairmount’s rooms are intimate suites featuring period furnishings, silk fabrics, fancy tiling, canopy beds, and Internet access.
One of San Antonio’s fanciest lodging options is the luxurious Omni La Mansion Del Rio Hotel (112 College St., 210/518-1000, www.omnihotels.com, $254 d). Locals stay here for a special night out, and travelers return regularly to experience this Spanish colonial hacienda-style accommodation on the banks of the historic San Antonio River Walk. Non-overnight visitors are drawn to La Mansion for its excellent margaritas. Hotel amenities include a magnificent courtyard with a heated swimming pool and spa along with historically stylish rooms offering Internet access, minibars, and plush robes.
Another impressive historic downtown hotel is the St. Anthony (300 E. Travis St., 210/227-4392, www.thesaintanthonyhotel.com, $269 d), an ornate yet refined Victorian property three blocks from the Alamo and one block from the River Walk. Built in 1909, the hotel is designated a National Historic Landmark and is legendary for its “Peacock Alley” lobby, decked out with eight-foot-wide crystal chandeliers and original artwork by Remington, Cartier, and DeYoung. The rooms feature Queen Anne-style decor with custom-tailored bedspreads and antique replicas. The bathrooms have a touch of style with black-and-white-tiled baths and pedestal sinks. All rooms feature wireless Internet access, and the hotel has a pool and spa tub.
San Antonio has dozens of fine bed-and-breakfasts, especially in the charming King William Historic District just south of downtown. To help narrow down the options (location, price, required interaction with other patrons), visit the San Antonio Bed & Breakfast Association’s website (www.sanantoniobb.org).
Considered by many to be the finest B&B in town is the Brackenridge House B & B Inn (230 Madison St., 210/271-3442, www.brackenridgehouse.com, $149-180), in the King William District. The Brackenridge prides itself on being comfy and cozy without being too cute—there are the requisite antique furnishings in each room, but they’re accompanied by a microwave, fridge, and free wireless Internet service. The B&B also offers a few added amenities, such as drinks, chocolates, and sherry in the guest rooms, and the breakfast portion of this package is legendary—a three-course feast in the formal dining room. Also distinctive to this B&B is the backyard pool and hot tub.
Rivaling the Brackenridge for the coveted title of San Antonio’s supreme B&B is the remarkable Oge Inn (209 Washington St., 210/223-2353, www.ogeinn.com, $149 and up). This elegant 1857 mansion is on the banks of the scenic San Antonio River, and its architectural significance has resulted in two coveted Texas Historical Commission designations: listing on the National Register of Historic Places and as a Texas Historical Landmark. Once the home of pioneer Texas Ranger, cattle rancher, and businessperson Louis Ogé, the home now contains 10 guest rooms luxuriously decorated with period antiques, private baths, fireplaces, and refrigerators, all with free Internet access. Non-morning people will appreciate the Oge Inn’s private tables, where a full breakfast is served in view of the fireplace or on the majestic front veranda.
San Antonio isn’t a big destination for campers, but there are several notable state parks within a half -hour drive of downtown. The best of the bunch is Guadalupe River State Park (29 miles north of downtown in Spring Branch, 3350 Park Rd. 31, 830/438-2656, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, $7 ages 13 and older). The main attraction is the beautiful namesake Guadalupe River, and a nine-mile stretch of it crosses over four natural rapids and two steep limestone bluffs in the park. The Guadalupe is known for its crystal-clear water, and the park takes full advantage of this natural resource by offering easy access to canoeing, fishing, swimming, tubing, picnicking, hiking, and camping. The park has a five-mile equestrian trail that’s also open to mountain biking.
For those who want to stay closer to town in an RV-type park, there’s the KOA Campground (602 Gembler Rd., 210/224-9296, www.koakampgrounds.com) just a few miles east of town. The KOA offers free Wi-Fi and is adjacent to a lake and golf course, so there’s plenty of recreational activity even if you aren’t in a recreational vehicle. Another option fairly close to town is Travelers World RV Park (2617 Roosevelt Ave., 210/532-8310, www.carefreervresorts.com). Three miles south of the city, Travelers World offers a city bus line at the main gate, a nearby hike and bike trail, a heated swimming pool, and wireless Internet access. Fees at these campgrounds vary based on site type; please visit their websites for details.
The San Antonio Visitor Information Center (317 Alamo Plaza, 210/207-6700 or 800/447-3372, www.visitsanantonio.com, daily 9am-5pm) is located inside the historic Crockett building between the Alamo and the River Walk. Maps, guides, brochures, souvenirs, and expert advice from the professional staff are available. You can also drop by the San Antonio Convention & Visitors Bureau (203 S. St. Mary’s St., 210/207-6700 or 800/447-3372, www.visitsanantonio.com, daily 8am-5:30pm) to get the scoop on where things are and how to get there. Another handy service organization is the Greater San Antonio Chamber of Commerce (602 E. Commerce St., 210/229-2100, www.sachamber.org), which offers a comprehensive website with extensive listings of hotels, restaurants, attractions, and events.
If you’re looking for specific information about River Walk businesses, including hours of operation and location, contact the Paseo del Rio Association (110 Broadway, Ste. 500, 210/227-4262, www.thesanantonioriverwalk.com).
San Antonio’s daily newspaper, the San Antonio Express-News, is a good source of information about South Texas politics and culture. The San Antonio Current is the city’s alternative newsweekly, featuring local writers and critics covering politics, arts, music, and food. It’s distributed every Wednesday at more than 850 locations citywide, including most downtown coffee shops and bars.
The San Antonio International Airport (9800 Airport Blvd., 210/207-3411, www.sanantonio.gov/aviation) is about 12 miles north of downtown and offers flights from 10 U.S.-based airlines and three Mexican companies. Most travelers pick up a car at the airport from one of the major rental companies. Another transportation option from the airport is SA Trans (210/281-9900), providing shared-van service to downtown hotels for about $25 one-way (with a round-trip purchase). The company operates booths outside both airport terminals, and service runs 7am-1:30am. Call 24 hours ahead for return service from the hotel. If you’re not taking an Uber, taxis cost about $35 and take approximately 20 minutes between the airport and downtown. Stations are located outside the airport terminals.
San Antonio has a reliable public transportation system, VIA Metropolitan Transit (210/362-2000, www.viainfo.net), which runs about 100 bus lines and a downtown streetcar service. Fares start around $1.
A popular and uniquely San Antonio way of getting around downtown is via river taxi. Rio San Antonio Cruises (tickets at Rivercenter Mall and Holiday Inn, 210/244-5700 or 800/417-4139, www.riosanantonio.com, $10 adults, $7 seniors, $4 children ages 1-5) specializes in tours but can also arrange for transportation.
New Braunfels is synonymous with German heritage and tubing (the “sport” of floating in an inner tube on the river). This town of 70,543 people just northeast of San Antonio has been relying on its natural resources for years, starting when German immigrants used the dependable, strong-flowing Comal Springs and Guadalupe River as a source for power and navigation. By the mid-1800s, New Braunfels had emerged as a growing agricultural area and manufacturing center supplying wagons, farm equipment, clothing, and furniture for Central Texas pioneers. The subsequent population boom resulted in New Braunfels being the fourth-largest town in Texas in 1850. People continued to arrive after the Civil War, and the agriculture industry grew along with the population. By the mid-1900s, the area had become a recreational hot spot catering to San Antonio residents who bought weekend or retirement homes on nearby Canyon Lake or the scenic Guadalupe River. Motels, resorts, and tubing companies soon followed, cementing New Braunfels’s reputation as a unique spot to relax on the water or spend time at the numerous antiques shops and German restaurants.
Quaint can have negative connotations (think frilly quilts, tea sets, doilies), but when combined with authentically rustic, it can be downright charming. The modest Gruene Historic District (Gruene is pronounced “green”), located just a few miles northwest of downtown New Braunfels, is one of the finest heritage tourism destinations in the region. Resisting the temptation to go overboard and “cute” things up, this several-block area retains much of its authentic character from the late 1800s, when German immigrant Henry D. Gruene built a mercantile store and later a cotton gin and dance hall to serve the sharecroppers who settled in the area. The small community was bustling until the 1920s, when the Great Depression and a nasty plague of boll weevils wiped out the cotton business and, consequently, the town. In the 1970s, several San Antonio and New Braunfels entrepreneurs determined the abandoned buildings had potential, and their instincts proved right when recreational tourists on the nearby Guadalupe River added shopping and dancing to their weekend itineraries.
The district’s most remarkable structure is Gruene Hall (1281 Gruene Rd., 830/606-1281, www.gruenehall.com), the oldest continually running dance hall in Texas. This magnificent 1878 building is a Hill Country treasure—the sturdy German-constructed wooden floors and long tables have witnessed more than a century of honky-tonkin’ boot-scootin’ country and roots rock music. Overlooking the scene are authentically reproduced beer and soft drink ads offering two-steppers a step back in time. Americana artists play Gruene Hall several nights a week and include some well-known regional acts (Robert Earl Keen, Kelly Willis and Bruce Robison, Delbert McClinton) and some heavy-hitting national stars (George Strait, Lyle Lovett, Jerry Jeff Walker). Check the website for upcoming performances.
Gruene Hall is Texas’s oldest operating dance hall.
Shopping in Gruene isn’t too overwhelming—there are only a couple of main streets, and the historic buildings are spaced fairly far apart. One of the highlights is the 1875 Gruene General Store (1610 Hunter Rd., 830/629-6021, www.gruenegeneralstore.com), containing everything you’d expect to find in an old-time mercantile business, from Texas-made candy, coffee, jams, and trinkets to home decor items and clothing. Other noteworthy shops in the district include the adjacent Grapevine (1612 Hunter Rd., 830/606-0093, www.grapevineingruene.com, daily 10am-9pm), a wine-tasting store featuring quality Texas wines, specialty beers, and gourmet gifts and food; the Gruene Antique Company (1607 Hunter Rd., 830/629-7781, www.grueneantiqueco.com, daily 10am-9pm), an enormous space containing antiques and collectibles housed in H. D. Gruene’s 1903 mercantile building; and the Tipsy Gypsy (1710 Hunter Rd., 830/625-4431), a funky boutique with colorful and flashy new and consignment items.
One of the best places in South Texas for kids to play and learn is the McKenna Children’s Museum (386 W. San Antonio St., 830/606-9525, www.mckennakids.org, Mon.-Sat. 10am-5pm, $7.50 adults and children over age 1). Rivaling big-city facilities in San Antonio and Austin, this museum will keep kids occupied and educated for hours on end. On hot days, head to the outdoor area, where a raised water canal offers innumerable opportunities for kids to be entertained—fountains, hoses, bridges, movable dams, and so many boats and rubber ducks you’ll hardly hear the common parental command of “share.” Inside, an imagination world awaits with miniature environments offering kids the chance to play in a town square, grocery store, hospital, tool shed, ranch house, and campground. There’s also a Tot Spot for barely walking babies, an outer space area, and a large hall for traveling kid-oriented art and educational exhibits.
Grab an inner tube (a cooler full of beverages is standard or optional, depending on who you ask), plop it in the Guadalupe River, kick back, and let the current lazily carry you down a refreshing tree-lined waterway. It’s a pleasant way to spend a hot summer day in South Texas, even though city officials are making efforts to deflate some of the fun, particularly for the younger crowd who consider it an excuse to get loaded while catching some rays. The party-on-the-water atmosphere was indeed getting a bit out of hand, with empty beer cans and bottles littering the scenic river, and reports of several types of questionable activity taking place along the banks. To combat the excess, lawmakers adopted ordinances that prohibit tubers from carrying coolers with capacities of more than 16 quarts. This allows the college-age crowd to continue their shenanigans without requiring a case of beer to do so, and, in the process, keep the scene clean and more family-friendly.
Dozens of reliable companies provide tube rental service. To do some comparative shopping, check out the River Outfitters link at the New Braunfels Chamber of Commerce website (www.innewbraunfels.com). The following sites come recommended by veteran tubers.
A good place to get your tube in the water is River Sports Tubes (12 miles west of town at 12034 FM 306, 830/964-2450, www.riversportstubes.com, Sun.-Fri. 9am-7pm, Sat. 8am-7pm). River Sports has a prime spot on the Guadalupe right in the middle of the busy Horseshoe Loop, making access to the river simple and quick. Tubers have the option of taking short, medium, or long floats, and when they’re done, the shuttle returns them back to home base. Tube rental runs $20; renting a cooler costs $10.
For those setting up base camp in Gruene, the local hot spot is Rockin’ R River Rides (1405 Gruene Rd., 800/553-5628, www.rockinr.com), billing itself as the only river outfitter in New Braunfels with locations on both the Guadalupe and Comal Rivers. Call for rental options and costs.
Another popular rental spot is Roy’s Rentals & Campground (6530 River Rd., 830/964-3721, www.roysrentals.com). Campsites are available, and, in addition to rental tubes ($20), Roy’s provides inflatable canoes, regular canoes, and rafts.
For three months a year, the German word Schlitterbahn is on every South Texas kid’s lips. The word translates as “slippery road,” but around here it means “the hottest, coolest time in Texas,” the ubiquitous summertime slogan of Schlitterbahn Waterpark (381 E. Austin St., 830/625-2351, www.schlitterbahn.com, June-Aug. daily, Apr.-May and Sept. weekends, $51 adults, $39 children). The words water park don’t begin to describe this summer wonderland, featuring more than three miles of tubing “trails,” 17 waterslides, seven children’s water playgrounds, the world’s first surfing machine, and three unique “uphill water coasters.” Attractions include dueling speed slides, tube chutes, and soft slides for toddlers. Schlitterbahn is an ideal family destination, since teens can get their adrenaline rush on the speedy downhill racing slides, the parents can spend their time leisurely floating in an inner tube on the slow-moving Kristal River ride, and the little ones can splash in the kiddie pools. Admission fees cover costs for tubes, life jackets, and a souvenir cup with free refills.
About 12 miles west of town, an otherworldly experience transports visitors to a different dimension. The subterranean Natural Bridge Caverns (26495 Natural Bridge Caverns Rd., 210/651-6101, www.naturalbridgecaverns.com, Oct.-Feb. daily 9am-4pm, summer hours vary, $21-25 adults, $14-15 children ages 3-11) is a good way to escape the Texas heat in the summer (the caverns’ temperature is a steady 70°F, although the 99 percent humidity feels like Houston). Visitors descend nearly 200 feet belowground via cement walkways to a surreal world of ancient natural formations with expressive names like soda straws, chandeliers, flowstones, and cave ribbon. Parents be advised: Wait until the kids are at least four or five years old since strollers are difficult to operate and toddlers might not have the patience or interest. Two tours are available. The standard North Cavern Tour is a 75-minute half-mile trek past oooh-inducing stalagmites, stalactites, flowstones, and other formations, some with descriptive titles such as the King’s Throne and Sherwood’s Forest. The other option, the Jeremy Room Flashlight Tour, takes place in a 120-foot-deep chamber filled with some of the more delicate formations—particularly the brittle yet mesmerizing soda straws. Each person gets a flashlight to check out the nooks and crannies of this space at their leisure. For those who really want to get up close and personal with the cavern, sign up for one of the Adventure Tours ($100), a physically demanding three-plus-hour excursion allowing visitors to climb, rappel, and explore the cavern. Caving gear is provided.
Those interested in learning more about New Braunfels’s cultural history should visit the Sophienburg Museum (401 W. Coll St., 830/629-1572, www.sophienburg.org, Tues.-Sat. 10am-4pm, $8 adults, $4 students, $2 children ages 6-12). Not surprisingly, the town’s German heritage takes center stage, with hundreds of artifacts dedicated to telling the story of the hearty folks who settled here in the mid-1800s and persevered through difficult times. Docents describe how the original village was founded by Prince Carl of Solms Braunfels, and historic photos and documents chronicle these events. A replica town containing a castle, general store, pharmacy, doctor’s office, and saloon help transport visitors to this bygone era.
S The Gristmill (1287 Gruene Rd., 830/625-0684, www.gristmillrestaurant.com, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-10pm, $10-28) is a must if you’re in Gruene. In a historic cotton gin building beneath the iconic Gruene water tower, The Gristmill embodies the district’s appeal: tastefully done rustic comfort. The fabulous scenery at this multilevel establishment overlooking the scenic Guadalupe River is almost as good as the food. Start with an order of perfectly breaded sweet onion rings and proceed to enjoy anything on the Southern-tinged menu. The beef tenderloin sandwich with avocado and horseradish sauce is especially tasty, as are the burgers, fried catfish, and tomatillo chicken. Good luck saving room for the delectable fudge pie.
For a true German experience in this authentically German town, try Friesenhaus (148 S. Castell St., 830/237-8862, www.friesenhausnb.com, Mon.-Sat. 11am-10pm, Sun. 11am-9pm, $9-24). The name references the family’s native stomping grounds in northern Germany, and the food proves they know their stuff. Breaded pork schnitzel is the specialty here, but the other menu options, from steaks to sausage to seafood, are equally tempting. Be sure to sample some of the flavorful breads and rolls made daily in the restaurant’s bakery, and stick with the German tradition by accompanying everything with a local beer or two.
Although it’s better known as a national phone/online meat delivery company, the New Braunfels Smokehouse (140 S. State Hwy. 46, 830/625-2416, www.nbsmokehouse.com, daily 8am-8pm, $12-31) has a restaurant just off the freeway that serves savory hickory-smoked meats on a plate rather than in a box. Sausages are the most popular items here, but locals make regular returns for the beef brisket, ham, ribs, and chicken and dumplings. If you’re in the area at breakfast, don’t miss the eggs and smoked sausage or pork chop combos. Lunches feature smoked ham, turkey, pastrami, and Canadian bacon sandwiches on homemade bread.
For those who’ve had enough of the German and Hill Country scene, head directly to New Braunfels’s popular downtown Huisache Grill & Wine Bar (303 W. San Antonio St., 830/620-9001, www.huisache.com, daily 11am-10pm, $12-30). Housed in a modest late 19th-century building with beautiful woodwork and abundant natural light, Huisache features freshly prepared, eclectic cuisine in a comfy setting. You can’t go wrong with the mixed grill (beef tenderloin kabobs, wild boar sausage, seared duck) or baked salmon.
New Braunfels is a B&B kind of town, especially its Gruene Historic District. San Antonio and Austin residents often make weekend getaways to New Braunfels, using a Gruene B&B as home base while they tube and shop. One of the most popular destinations is Gruene Mansion Inn (1275 Gruene Rd., 830/629-2641, www.gruenemansioninn.com, $195 and up, most weekends have a two-night minimum stay). This is where the town’s namesake, Henry D. Gruene, once lived; his Victorian home and outbuildings are now listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Gruene’s mansion has been converted into 30 guest rooms, each with its own entrance, private bathroom, and porch, and the rooms are decorated with a heavily furnished “Victorian rustic elegance.” Free Wi-Fi service is available, and breakfast consists of a buffet with several hot items, pastries, breads, and fruit.
Another highly regarded option is Gruene Homestead Inn (832 Gruene Rd., 830/606-0216 or 800/238-5534, www.gruenehomesteadinn.com, $150 and up), a collection of historic farmhouses on eight acres. Amenities include private baths and porches, free wireless Internet, and a full breakfast. Guests also have access to the swimming pool and hot tub, and family accommodations on this former German homestead are available in cottages and guesthouses that sleep up to five people. Catch a local blues or Americana band on the inn’s grounds at Tavern in the Gruene, a live music venue featuring a full bar, shuffleboard table, and horseshoe pit.
New Braunfels has several decent nonchain accommodations, including the fancy Faust Hotel (240 S. Seguin Ave., 830/625-7791, www.fausthotel.com, $129 d and up). Built in 1929, this elegant hotel has an added bonus: an on-site microbrewery. The Faust Brewing Company is in the hotel’s original beer garden and serves some tasty house-made brews, including a crisp hefeweizen. The rooms are pretty nice, too, with period furnishings and free Wi-Fi. The hotel also provides a free breakfast.
Not as upscale is the tuber-friendly collection of cottages on the river at The Other Place (385 Other Place Dr., 830/625-5114, www.theotherplaceresort.com, cabins range $180-300). This natural spot has been around since 1910, when it was founded as Camp Giesecke, and its four wooded acres are bordered by 1,400 feet of river frontage in the horseshoe bend of the Comal River. Each unit has central air/heat, a full kitchen with dishes and utensils, a dining area, Wi-Fi access, and a private porch overlooking the river. Be forewarned: There are no phones or TVs in the rooms, so guests have to rely on good ol’ fashioned conversation and game playing (or their iPhones) for entertainment.
The sheer number of tubing and German-related tourist activities can be mind-boggling. To help get a handle on what’s available and where, drop by the New Braunfels Chamber of Commerce (390 S. Seguin Ave., 830/625-2385 or 800/572-2626, www.innewbraunfels.com). Friendly staffers will gladly provide brochures and directions.
From San Antonio, New Braunfels is a quick drive (about 30 minutes) up I-35 North. Take exit 185 and head north on Spur Street. To reach Gruene, continue through the city for about a mile on the same road, which changes names to Common Street.
Del Rio (population 36,153) bills itself as the “Best of the Border,” and that’s a fairly accurate statement in Texas. It’s certainly a worthwhile destination, primarily for the fascinating Native American pictographs and archaeological sites in Amistad National Recreation Area and Seminole Canyon State Park. Although it appears to be in the middle of nowhere, Del Rio is actually a fairly quick (almost two-hour) road trip directly west of San Antonio. It’s worth making a day trip or an overnight trek for the prehistoric Native American rock art alone.
the Val Verde County Courthouse in Del Rio
Del Rio’s history is tied to the San Felipe Springs, which still gush nearly 100 million gallons of clear, cool water each day. Early Native American tribes and Spanish settlers used the springs to forge crude irrigation systems, eventually developing a canal system that diverted water to 1,500 acres of surrounding land.
Soon after the canal system was formalized in 1871, two major railroads linked up just west of the city, and the resulting economic boom established Del Rio as a burgeoning border town, becoming a division headquarters for the railroad. By the 1900s, a healthy portion of Del Rio’s economy was government based, with the border patrol, Laughlin Air Force Base, customs offices, and a federal courthouse here.
Del Rio’s cultural legacy also has an intriguing tale worth broadcasting: the border blaster radio saga. In the late 1950s, “Dr.” John R. Brinkley made international waves when he advertised his controversial hormone-enhancing medical procedures (involving goat gland transplants) from his radio station in Ciudad Acuña across the border from Del Rio. American radio stations had federal limitations on the amount of power they could use to broadcast their signals, but Brinkley’s Mexican station XER had 250,000 watts (five times the U.S. limit). In the early 1960s, he hired a gravelly voiced deejay named Wolfman Jack, who, thanks to the insane amount of voltage beaming his sonic sounds throughout the continent, became a vital figure in early rock ’n’ roll history.
The steep, narrow canyons of the Rio Grande and Pecos River have provided shelter for thousands of years and, in the process, preserved prehistoric materials by offering protection from the elements. Some of the most impressive examples are of ancient Native American artwork, the focal point of Seminole Canyon State Park (38 miles west of Del Rio on U.S. Hwy. 90, 432/292-4464, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, open daily, $3 ages 13 and up). The park’s main attraction is Fate Bell Shelter, containing an amazing array of ancient pictographs, including mystic shaman figures, animal images, and soul-stirring handprints.
The meaning of the mesmerizing paintings is buried with the people who made them nearly 4,000 years ago, but that’s what is so utterly intriguing. What were they communicating with these crude drawings? What do the mystic shaman figures represent? What were conditions like in this region so many millennia ago? What’s known is that the various Native American tribes, collectively referred to as the people of the Lower Pecos River, lived in small groups and subsisted off small animals and wild plants. The pictographs, made with rust-colored paint derived from animal oils and plant materials, depict many of these animals, along with shaman figures. Some historians suggest the shamans are symbols of medicine men or spiritual beings connecting them to different levels of consciousness via hallucinogenic herbs and plants.
The park’s Fate Bell Shelter Tour is held Wednesday-Sunday (June 1-Aug. 31 at 10am, Sept. 1-May 31 10am and 3pm) and involves a fairly rugged hike to the bottom of the canyon and then up to the art-filled rock shelter. Volunteers with the nonprofit Rock Art Foundation (888/762-5278, www.rockart.org) conduct tours of the shelter, and the group also offers weekend trips to the region’s other noteworthy rock art sites, including the Galloway White Shaman Preserve, the Casper Site, and the Curly Tail Panther Site.
Although Seminole Canyon is primarily devoted to ancient pictographs, there are other things to do there between visits to rock shelters. The park also includes an insightful and well-researched interpretive center, campsites with water and electricity, eight miles of multiuse trails for hiking and mountain biking, and nature/interpretive trails.
Panther Cave has been referred to as the Sistine Chapel of American Rock Art, and those who have experienced it understand why. This mesmerizing rock shelter featuring 4,000-year-old (!) Native American pictographs is only accessible by boat, and even at a choppy 45 mph it takes nearly an hour to get there. For those fascinated by ancient people and their lifeways, it’s well worth the effort.
After traversing the enormous Lake Amistad, an artificial reservoir on the Rio Grande just west of Del Rio, visitors ascend a steep steel staircase along the canyon wall to see this spectacular panorama of rock art.
Stretched across a 100-foot-wide canvas of limestone are more than 100 rust-colored images depicting animals and magnificent shaman figures, most created by Native Americans long before ancient Egyptians placed the first stones of the Great Pyramids. The centerpiece is the cave’s namesake 10-foot-long panther, a reddish-brown profile of a massive cat raised on its hind legs with spiky hairs on its back and an unusually long tail. Visitors will be transfixed by its allure, repeatedly muttering “wow” as they try to comprehend its ancient origins. A chain-link fence limits up close interaction with the cave’s paintings, but the protection it provides, along with nearby informative panels, ensure the site will remain a fulfilling destination well into the future.
The National Park Service manages Panther Cave with Seminole Canyon State Park, and it should be noted that droughts can result in lowered lake levels and an occasional loss of access to the cave. To plan a visit to Panther Cave, first get your bearings by obtaining a map at one of the local visitors centers or via the Amistad National Recreation Area website (www.nps.gov/amis). This will help you get a sense of where the marinas are in relation to the cave; to reach it, boaters should launch at the Pecos River boat ramp. One of the only commendable resources for boat rental information is Southwinds Marina (830/775-7800, www.laughlinservices.com).
Lake Amistad (Spanish for friendship) was created in 1969 by Amistad Dam, an enormous structure containing two bronze eagles at the center symbolizing the spirit of cooperation between the United States and Mexico. The National Park Service manages the Amistad National Recreation Area (830/775-7491, www.nps.gov/amis) and its impressive 67,000 surface acres of water along 540 miles of U.S. shoreline. The lake is a popular destination for year-round boating, fishing, swimming, scuba diving, waterskiing, and bird-watching. Most of the water activity originates at one of the lake’s marinas, where visitors can arrange slip rentals and purchase fuel, bait, ice, snacks, and beverages. For information, contact Southwinds Marina (830/775-7800, www.laughlinservices.com).
Professional anglers are hooked on Amistad Reservoir’s high-quality year-round fishing, especially for largemouth, smallmouth, and striped bass. By boat or on shore, fishers also cast lines for channel and blue catfish, crappie, various species of sunfish, and alligator gar. A catch-and-release policy is encouraged. What’s required, however, is a valid Texas fishing license (for the U.S. side of Amistad Reservoir). Mexico also requires a fishing license for boaters in its waters. Numbered buoys running along the main channel of the Rio Grande indicate the border with Mexico. The permits are available at Fisherman’s Headquarters (in the Chevron at the intersection of U.S. Hwy. 90 W. and U.S. Hwy. 277 N., 830/774-5670).
At any given time of the year you’ll see boats punctuating the surface of Amistad Reservoir’s clear waters. Personal watercraft, ski boats, sailboats, and houseboats are commonly seen on the lake thanks to the mild weather in this part of the state. A lake use permit is required for the U.S. side of Amistad Reservoir, and Mexico also requires a boat permit for use of its waters. Boating permits can be purchased at Amistad Visitor Information Center (five miles west of the park headquarters on U.S. Hwy. 90 W., 830/775-7491, daily 8am-5pm). Permits are also available at ATM-type machines located at Diablo East, Rough Canyon, Box Canyon, and the Pecos. The NPS also charges a lake use fee for all watercraft requiring state registration. The fees are $4 daily or $10 for a three-day pass.
Don’t expect any fancy camping accommodations at Amistad. The lake’s four campgrounds are for hard-core campers only, with site pads, covered picnic tables, and grills about the only amenities available (no RV hookups). In fact, the only campground offering potable water is Governors Landing (4121 Veterans Blvd., 830/775-7491, www.nps.gov/amis), containing sites suitable for tents or RVs less than 28 feet. Each site costs $4 per night.
Like other border towns, Del Rio has retained an impressive number of historic structures, although it doesn’t have as much to do with a strong preservation ethic as much as the economy. Since much of the region has struggled financially, it hasn’t been in a position to afford the luxury of tearing down old buildings to replace them with fancy new modern facilities. It’s ultimately proven to be quite beneficial, since border communities like Del Rio contain magnificent vernacular structures from the early 1900s that were bulldozed in most other areas of the state and country during the 1950s as part of the out-with-the-old modern architectural movement. For a handy guide detailing the location and background of more than 30 historic buildings in town, drop by the Del Rio Chamber of Commerce downtown office (1915 Ave. F).
One of the city’s gems is set in the heart of downtown, the 1887 Val Verde County Courthouse (400 Pecan St.). Noted for its distinctive tan-colored limestone, the courthouse features handsome stonework forged by Native American masons. Del Rio celebrated the restoration of this magnificent Classical Revival structure as part of its association with the Texas Historical Commission’s Texas Historic Courthouse Preservation Program. The nearby Sacred Heart Church (320 Mill St.) is another spectacular example of regional architecture. Construction of this native limestone church began in 1891, and the Gothic Revival building was enlarged and remodeled in 1929. Just up the street is the fetching Firehouse Gallery (120 E. Garfield St., 830/775-0888, www.delrioarts.com), now housing the Del Rio Council for the Arts. This charming two-story structure, which hosts arts-related programs and exhibits, once served as city hall, a jail, and a fire station. Just a few blocks away is Del Rio’s historic downtown district, featuring a fascinating combo of late-1800s buildings and Mid-Century Modern slipcovers and storefronts.
Historic for very different reasons is the Brinkley Mansion (512 Qualia Dr.). Built in the early 1930s, this Spanish Eclectic-style residence was home to the infamous “goat-gland doctor” John R. Brinkley of border radio fame. The house serves as a monument to one of the country’s biggest medical frauds, a procedure known as the “Brinkley operation,” where a gland transplant from a goat supposedly restored virility in men. Patients and money rolled in, and Brinkley used his profits to establish a 250,000-watt radio station across the border (the legendary XER, where Wolfman Jack and early rock ’n’ roll were introduced to the continent). He also enhanced his home with flashing colored lights, elaborate water features, and speakers connected to a pipe organ inside. Locals would gather outside this local landmark to dance to the music and enjoy the light show.
Local history is the main draw at the Whitehead Memorial Museum (1308 S. Main St., 830/774-7568, www.whiteheadmuseum.org, Tues.-Sat. 10am-6pm, Sun. 1pm-5pm, $5 adults, $4 seniors, $3 students ages 13-18, $2 children ages 6-12). Named for a local ranching family who preserved the historic 1871 Perry Store, the museum contains a two-acre frontier village featuring the store and 20 other exhibit sites. The open-air museum includes a replica of local legend Judge Roy Bean’s famous combined saloon/courtroom building, as well as Bean’s actual gravesite. Also featured are a portion of the San Felipe irrigation canal, an exhibit on the Black Seminole Indian tribe, and a building dedicated to border radio.
the Whitehead Memorial Museum
Just down the road is Val Verde Winery (100 Qualia Dr., 830/775-9714, www.valverdewinery.com, tastings and tours Tues.-Sat. 11am-6pm, Sun. 1pm-5pm, free), considered the oldest continuously running winery in Texas. Italian immigrant Frank Qualia discovered Lenoir grapes thriving in the Del Rio sun when he arrived in 1883, and his original adobe winery building is still in use today. Third-generation vintner Thomas Qualia operates Val Verde Winery, and its products, particularly the Don Luis Tawny Port, have won medals from Texas to New York. Most of the wines are sold at the winery itself, but bottles can be shipped throughout the state or are available at specialty shops in the Hill Country, Austin, and Houston.
Del Rio’s San Felipe Springs have been a source of nourishment and refreshment for ages. They were a vital watering stop for prehistoric people and settlers on the historic Chihuahua Road. Nearly 100 million gallons of clear, clean water emanate from the springs daily, and although they no longer fill the historic irrigation canals that run throughout town, they still sustain the city of Del Rio and nearby Laughlin Air Force Base. Most local residents will tell you the springs are an ideal destination for cooling off on a hot summer Texas afternoon. Moore City Park has stone banks offering a safe and shallow place for kids to play, and the swimming hole at Horseshoe Park remains a popular spot to take a refreshing dip. To reach the source of San Felipe Creek, take U.S. Highway 90 West into town; look for San Felipe Country Club on your right. The road through the golf course, San Felipe Springs Road, leads to the source of San Felipe Creek.
Take a few hours on your way in or out of Del Rio to visit Brackettville (about 30 miles east of town on U.S. Hwy. 90). One of the town’s (population 1,784) main attractions is Fort Clark Springs (830/563-2495, www.fortclark.com, call in advance for reservations/accessibility), a spectacular site combining military history and modern-day recreation. This hotel/pool/museum/golf course combo is at the site of a U.S. Army fort that was in operation for nearly a century. Stay in the recently restored barracks, which now offer modest yet comfortable rooms. Be sure to set aside some time to stroll around the old fort grounds, where former officers’ quarters are now residences, including the home of famed Gen. George S. Patton. The highlight is a massive spring-fed pool that has offered a cool respite from the sweltering South Texas heat for centuries. The fort’s historical significance lies in its role as home base for the army’s Seminole-Negro Indian Scouts, a band of displaced East Coast slaves who gained respect as soldiers along the Mexican border. The Seminole Indian Scout Cemetery, just west of Brackettville on FM 693, honors their legacy.
Fort Clark Springs
In a faux log cabin, Cripple Creek Saloon (U.S. Hwy. 90 W., 830/775-0153, Mon.-Sat. 5pm-10pm, $8-24) is one of the best places in town for standard steak and seafood dishes. Although the mesquite-grilled steaks are popular, locals head here for the seafood, including lobster, swordfish, shrimp, and crab. This is a great place to bring the family since Cripple Creek has a small outdoor petting zoo to keep the kids entertained before, during, and after the meal. A bonus for locavores: Cripple Creek serves wine from Del Rio’s very own Val Verde Winery.
Another favorite local hangout is Blue Oasis Bar & Grill (3806 Veterans Blvd., 830/313-7088, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-midnight, Fri.-Sat. 11am-2am, $8-18), a no-frills establishment that focuses more on hearty food than quaint atmosphere. The Corona Chicken is a signature menu item, and other popular dishes include the barbecue sandwich and the meaty burgers and steaks.
Since nearby Ciudad Acuña’s border-crossing appeal is no longer a safe option for sampling authentic Mexican food in its country of origin, most visitors opt to sample Del Rio’s wares. Although they don’t quite match the appeal of eating at a true Mexican café, Del Rio has several restaurantes worth experiencing. At the top of the list is Memo’s (804 E. Losoya St., 830/774-1583, www.memosrestaurant.com, Mon.-Sat. 11am-2pm and 5:30pm-9:30pm, $7-18). Known more for its history than its food, Memo’s has developed a reputation for serving respectable Tex-Mex fare and steaks in a scenic setting on San Felipe Creek. Since 1936, the restaurant has been operated by the Calderon family, including a decades-long stint by “Blondie” Calderon, who achieved fame as the lead piano player and conductor for Ray Price’s Cherokee Cowboys Band. The restaurant continues its musical traditions with Latin-themed jam sessions on Thursday nights. There’s food here, too, including local favorites like the Tampiqueña dinner (tenderized steak in a spicy sauce with a cheese enchilada on the side) and Blondie’s guizado (carne guisada and an enchilada).
One of the newest options is Manuel’s Steakhouse (1312 Veterans Blvd., 830/488-6044, www.manuelssteakhouse.com, Tues.-Sun. 11am-10pm, $8-19). Also straddling the border between Tex and Mex, Manuel’s offers visitors the rare opportunity to experience a Mexican restaurant (the original location is in Ciudad Acuña) without having to cross into Mexico. Steaks are the specialty here, but the Mexican menu is extensive and delicious, with northern Mexico favorites such as pericos (fancy nachos), quail legs, and mollejas (sweetbreads). The fresh guacamole is some of the best the border has to offer.
Known more for its food than its charm is Chinto’s Super Taco (400 E. 6th St., 830/774-1592, daily 6am-2:30pm, $5-12). Chinto’s is a hot spot for Tex-Mex breakfast and lunch, primarily serving the business crowd. Locals line up for the tasty breakfast tacos and lunch specials (crispy beef tacos, bean burritos). Just don’t expect attentive service—orders are placed and picked up at the front counter.
Although Del Rio has several independently owned lodging options, travelers often find the city’s uninspiring yet reliably consistent chains to be the best options due to their . . . reliable consistency. Among them are Best Western Inn of Del Rio (810 Veterans Blvd., 830/775-7511, www.bestwesterntexas.com, $68 d), offering “the largest rooms in the area,” complete with microwaves and refrigerators, along with free Wi-Fi access, a free breakfast, and an outdoor pool and hot tub. Another worthy option is La Quinta Inn Del Rio (2005 Veterans Blvd., 830/775-7591, www.lq.com, $75 d), featuring free Internet access in all rooms, a free deluxe continental breakfast each morning, and an outdoor pool. A modest step up in price and quality is Hampton Inn & Suites (2219 N. Bedell Ave., 830/775-9700, www.hamptoninn.com, $99 d). The Hampton’s amenities include a free hot breakfast, free Internet access and lap desks, an outdoor swimming pool, and a fitness center.
Del Rio’s camping options are generally divided into two types: no-frills campsites for fishers and hunters, and full-service parks for RVs. For tent camping, the best place to be is close to the action at Amistad National Recreation Area. For the RV crowd, there’s Holiday Trav-L Park (11490 W. Hwy. 90, 830/775-7275, www.holidaytrav-l-park.com), with free Wi-Fi access (with tech support), bathhouses, a swimming pool, free coffee and breakfast, and car rentals. Another option is Lonesome Dove RV Ranch (4832 W. Hwy. 90, 830/774-1823, www.lonesomedovervranch.com), offering full hookups, showers, a swimming pool, and a laundry room.
The Del Rio Chamber of Commerce (1915 Veterans Blvd., 830/775-3551, www.drchamber.com) distributes maps and brochures, and provides visitor information about the area. Check with them for details about walking and driving tours of Del Rio, and information about the latest news in Ciudad Acuña.
It’s a relatively smooth and easy two-hour drive from San Antonio to Del Rio. Just get on U.S. Highway 90 West and stay on it the whole way until you see signs for downtown Del Rio (Avenue J).
Although Laredo’s (population 255,473) reputation as a fun tourist destination was tarnished by the drug cartel violence in neighboring Nuevo Laredo a decade ago, the city is still safe to visit, with authentic Mexican culture, historic buildings, and abundant birding opportunities.
From a historical perspective, Laredo has a very Texas-worthy distinction—it’s the only area in the state’s current borders to have served under seven flags. This seventh flag flew over the short-lived yet fiery Republic of the Rio Grande, a district created in 1840 by a constitutional convention after several prominent Laredoans joined a revolt to protest the Mexican government. During its existence, several violent clashes erupted, including one especially brutal battle that ended with the execution of the republic’s chief army lieutenant, Antonio Zapata. His severed head was later displayed as an ominous warning. Representatives ultimately surrendered later that year, marking the end of the Republic of the Rio Grande after merely 283 days.
Unlike many border towns in the Lower Rio Grande Valley, Laredo has retained its Hispanic culture without yielding to the religious, architectural, and governmental influences European settlers imposed on other Texas cities. Anglo settlers typically married into Mexican families and assimilated into their culture, rather than enforcing theirs on the older residents. Local historians refer to it as a comfortable “Hispanicization,” with newcomers easily picking up the language and customs.
This assimilation resulted in the Rio Grande being considered more of a psychological dividing line than a physical border, at least until the recent episodes of gang-related violence in Nuevo Laredo made Mexico a dangerous destination. Laredo’s ties to northern Mexico are long-standing, dating back to 1755, when the city was divided in half after the Rio Grande was established as the international boundary.
Until the past decade, families freely traversed the border, living and working on both sides of the river. This binationalism is reflected in the city’s architecture, referred to as border vernacular, with downtown buildings often containing traditional Mexican adobe or mission elements combined with U.S. neoclassical style.
One of the city’s centers of historical activity is the San Agustin Plaza, a formerly thriving town square near the Rio Grande with traditional Mexican elements such as a cathedral, hotel, mercantile stores, and a central park. The most striking feature is the San Agustin Cathedral (214 San Bernardo Ave., on the east side of the plaza). Although the parish was established in 1778, the current building dates to 1872. A focal point of the plaza, the masonry Gothic Revival structure boasts a spectacular five-story tower and spire, making it the second-tallest building in Laredo. The cathedral serves as the seat of the Catholic Diocese of Laredo.
On the south side of the plaza is the equally compelling La Posada Hotel (1000 Zaragoza St.). The building’s remarkable Spanish colonial-style architecture makes it another focal point. The site dates to 1767, when it served as a city hall. It later became Laredo’s first convent before transforming into Laredo High School and subsequently a hotel in 1966.
Also on the La Posada grounds is the Washington’s Birthday Celebration Museum, featuring costumes, photos, and exhibits related to Laredo’s 115-year-old fiesta honoring George Washington. The city holds the “father of our country” in high regard for his role in making the United States a welcome location for the many cultures that influenced Laredo’s heritage. The celebration itself is held each February, drawing nearly 400,000 people for the festive parades, carnival, concerts, fireworks, and traditional exchange of abrazos (hugs) representing the “friendly” relationship between the United States and Mexico.
Directly next door to La Posada is the Republic of the Rio Grande Museum (1005 Zaragoza St., 956/727-3480, Tues.-Sat. 9am-4pm, $3) in a circa-1830 Mexican vernacular home that served as the capitol building for the short-lived republic. The museum features artifacts related to the republic, which existed for a scant 283 days in the year 1840, along with other documents and photos showcasing Laredo’s history.
Local history is also on display at the nearby Villa Antigua Border Heritage Museum (810 Zaragoza St., 956/727-3480, www.webbheritage.org, Tues.-Sat. 9am-4pm, $5). Located in a historic Italianate-style home, the museum offers photos and artifacts relating to regional history along with traveling exhibits.
San Agustin Plaza is also the starting point for a trolley tour (956/727-3480, Tues.-Sat. 9am-2pm, $10 ages 13 and up) of Laredo’s historic districts, including Victorian-era St. Peter’s district, the Old Mercado downtown area, and the restored Fort McIntosh. Other stops include the nearby San Agustin Cathedral, a Victorian mansion in the St. Peter’s district, and optional stops at the 1909 Webb County Courthouse and the Laredo Center for the Arts. The price includes admission to the Republic of the Rio Grande Museum and the Villa Antigua Border Heritage Museum.
Laredo isn’t considered a hotbed of artistic activity, but any city of more than 200,000 has a creative community in need of a major facility. In Laredo, their nucleus is the Laredo Center for the Arts (500 San Agustin Ave., 956/725-1715, www.laredoartcenter.org, Tues.-Sat. 11am-4pm, free). In Laredo’s historic City Hall in Market Square, the facility’s mission is to “promote the artistic creativity of all people” by hosting artistic and cultural events such as international art exhibits, dance performances, art history lectures, musical performances, and art education classes for adults and children. The Center for the Arts is also home to the Webb County Heritage Foundation and hosts a gallery for the Laredo Art League. The center manages three galleries: the Lilia G. Martinez Gallery, the Goodman Gallery, and the Community Gallery, showcasing the work of local student artists.
Fort McIntosh (on the campus of Laredo Community College, west end of Washington St., www.laredo.edu) was established by the U.S. Army in 1848 following the Mexican War and was among a series of border forts guarding against attacks. Its years of service far outlasted Texas’s other border forts, which protected settlers for several decades in the mid- to late 1800s. Because of its position on an international border, Fort McIntosh was in continuous use for nearly a century. The fort is now part of Laredo Community College, which has incorporated several of the historic buildings—barracks, chapel, infirmary, guardhouse, commander’s house, and commissary—as administrative facilities and housing for faculty and students. Fort McIntosh is marked by four distinct architectural eras: early Fort McIntosh (1848-61), Civil War to Spanish-American War (1861-98), modern Fort McIntosh (1900-45), and Laredo Community College period (1946-present). The street names honor fort commanders, officers, and soldiers.
Also on the Laredo Community College campus is the Lamar Vergara Environmental Science Center (west end of Washington St., 956/764-5701, www.laredo.edu, Mon.-Thurs. 8am-6pm, Fri. 8am-noon, free), dedicated to plant and animal life in the Rio Grande watershed. The property features four ponds containing alligators, turtles, and fish, and a garden area with more than 50 types of native vegetation, including cacti, wildflowers, and regional brush species. Indoor exhibits showcase amphibians, reptiles, rodents, and fish. Be sure to take the Paso del Indio Nature Trail (you can’t miss the giant entryway with sign), which overlooks the Rio Grande and is peppered with informational signs and panels offering fascinating information about the captivating history and culture of the area.
Like many of the border towns along the Rio Grande, Laredo has built a strong reputation for its abundant birding opportunities. Birders flock to this part of the state during migratory periods in search of their feathered friends, who arrive from across the country en route to Mexico and other warm climes. The birds’ geographical diversity provides an interesting blend of species, including the rare green parakeet and similarly colorful-named white-tipped dove, green jay, and white-collared seedeater. The city’s hot spots for bird-watching include River Road on the Laredo Community College campus, the Paso del Indio Nature Trail (accessible behind the Lamar Vergara Science Center), and areas near the Laredo Independent School District’s central office (1702 Houston St.).
Laredo doesn’t boast an impressive collection of trendy boutiques, but it has several interesting spots worth checking out for that potentially elusive treasure—especially since border-hopping trips are no longer a safe option. A good starting place is San Bernardo Avenue, a stretch of road between Hidalgo and Matamoros near downtown with several quality import stores. Most carry similar products—ceramics, glassware, furniture, papier-mâché artwork, small musical instruments, leather goods, home furnishings, and metalwork—though some are higher-quality locales than others. Among them are Martinez Imports (3302 San Bernardo Ave., 956/727-9828), the low-key Laredo Mexican Imports (2905 San Bernardo Ave., 956/791-8020), and the fancy Vega’s Imports (4002 San Bernardo Ave., 956/724-8251). Those looking for larger items, furniture in particular, should drop by one of the city’s noteworthy antiques shops. Back in the olden days, you’d probably spend less money across the border for alluring items such as rustic Mexican-style tables, chairs, and cabinets, but the prices are still reasonable at Oscar’s Antiques (1002 Guadalupe St., 956/723-0765). Far less spectacular yet hands-down the most popular shopping destination in Laredo is Mall Del Norte (5300 San Dario Ave., 956/728-1536, www.malldelnorte.com), featuring Macy’s, Dillard’s, Sears, and more than 150 other retail stores along with a kids’ play area, food court, and movie theater.
Laredo has some of the best Tex-Mex in the state, with its own distinctive norteño (variety) of standard fare such as panchos (nachos) and mariachis (breakfast tacos), as well as some of the best cabrito (goat) in the state. There are other types of restaurants in town, but most of them are chains or spots not really worth recommending. The following locales offer a good sampling of the many different sabores (flavors) of Mexican food in this bountiful border town.
Skip the free hotel breakfast and start your day instead at Marla (5904 McPherson Ave., 956/729-9878, daily 7am-11pm, $6-16). The Texas version of a Mexican institution, this place does breakfast right—migas (eggs with crispy tortilla chips and savory peppers) and biscuits topped with beans are true eye-openers.
If you’re intrigued by hidden restaurants frequented by only those in the know, consider yourself knowledgeable about the amazing S El Meson De San Agustin (908 Grant St., www.elmesondesanagustin.com, Mon.-Sat. 11am-4:30pm, $5-12). Although El Meson is slightly more visible these days—a small sign now hangs above the door—its reputation as an enigmatic lunch destination endures. The modest back-street facade immediately fades as you enter the small yet homey dining room, packed with happy customers and colorful decorations. The traditional cuisine is the main draw, especially the hearty caldo (flavorful beef soup with bold seasonings, rice, vegetables, and chunks of corn on the cob). You can’t go wrong with anything else on the menu, but the best of the bunch include the enmoladas de pollo (tortilla-wrapped chicken) and the carne de puerco (pork with peppers). Speaking Spanish is a plus here.
For a truly authentic borderland experience with a dash of history, head straight to S La India Packing Co. and Tasting Cafe (1520 Marcella Ave., 956/723-3772, www.laindiaherbsandspices.com, Mon.-Fri. 8am-5pm, $7-14). The La India spice company has been providing seasonings and herbal remedies for regional residents since 1924. The family-run business began as a small grocery store and evolved to a large-scale spice and seasoning distribution company (it’s still on-site behind the modest home/retail shop/restaurant). The restaurant allows patrons to sample the incredible seasonings wafting throughout the store, expertly prepared in a small back-room kitchen. Although everything on the menu is incredible (you may have to point to items if you’re unfamiliar with Spanish), the most memorable meal you’ll experience is the chicken mole—a sublime blend of tastes (from hints of chocolate and cinnamon to a rich nutty flavor). The fact that it’s served on authentic family decorative plates makes it even more perfecto.
Locals love Tacolare (6102 McPherson Ave., 956/753-0116, daily 11am-11pm, $5-11), which takes the seemingly ordinary taco and elevates it to a lofty delicacy. Some have crafty ingredients (ham, sausage), while others are uniquely constructed, like the sincronizada, a sandwich-like stacked tortilla concoction.
A good spot for any meal is the semi-swanky Tono’s Bar & Grill (1202 E. Del Mar Blvd., 956/717-4999, www.tbglaredo.com, Mon.-Sat. 11:30am-10pm, $9-29), one of the best places in town to get an authentic interior Mexican-style meal. Entrées range from huevos montados (sunny-side-up eggs over tortillas, beans, cheese, and sausage) and beef milanesa (a “Mexican-fried steak” with chipotle sauce in place of gravy) to upscale meat and seafood dishes like tenderloin medallions and sea bass. Look for live music in the bar area most weekends.
One of Laredo’s favorite establishments is Fonda Don Martin (9652 McPherson Rd., 956/723-7778, www.fondadonmartin.com, daily 7am-3pm, $8-24), an amazing restaurant in an uninspiring location (a strip mall). Upon entering and seeing the tortilla-making stand, however, you know you’re in for a treat. Order the enchiladas callejeras (cheese-filled goodness topped with a spicy sauce) or the heftier cortadillo del res (seasoned beef).
If you’re planning to be in Laredo for a few days, your best bet is to stay in one of the downtown historic hotels, where you’ll get a true sense of the city’s culture. Compared to other Texas cities, their rates are rather affordable. Hotels are downright cheap in other parts of the city, particularly the reliable chains on I-35 a couple miles north of downtown.
On the banks of the Rio Grande in the heart of the city is the Rio Grande Plaza Hotel (1 S. Main Ave., 877/722-2411, www.venturastreet.com, $89 d). It’s not the fanciest place in town, but the location is ideal, and it offers free breakfast, a pool, an exercise facility, and Internet access in the rooms.
The best way to experience Laredo is at S La Posada Hotel (1000 Zaragoza St., 956/722-1701, www.laposadahotel.com, $109 d). With its remarkable Spanish colonial-style architecture, the hotel is a focal point on the San Agustin Plaza. The building site dates to 1767, when it served as a city hall, and its hacienda appearance makes it a welcoming regional building. Recently renovated, La Posada features a fully equipped fitness center, lush courtyards, and free wireless Internet access in all rooms.
La Posada Hotel on the plaza
Another worthy downtown option is the historic Rialto Hotel (1219 Matamoros St., 956/725-1800, www.rialtohotel.net, $170 d), offering classic features with modern amenities. This 47-room boutique hotel includes a fitness center and free Internet access in all rooms, along with a microwave and refrigerator.
One of the best budget options in town is the independently owned Family Garden Inn & Suites (5830 San Bernardo Ave., 956/723-5300 or 800/292-4053, www.familygardeninn.com, $65 d). Amenities include a free continental breakfast and evening social gathering, an outdoor pool, a fitness center, a playground, and rooms with refrigerators and microwaves.
Nearby is the Courtyard Laredo (2410 Santa Ursula Ave., 956/725-5555, www.marriott.com, $84 d), catering to business travelers and featuring free Internet access, a swimming pool, breakfast, a whirlpool, and an exercise room.
Those looking for the comforts of home, including a fully stocked kitchen and several large rooms, should consider Residence Inn Laredo del Mar (310 Lost Oaks Blvd., 956/753-9700, www.marriott.com, $98 d), which also offers a complimentary breakfast and free Internet access in all rooms.
The best place to camp near Laredo is just east of town at Lake Casa Blanca International State Park (6101 Bob Bullock Loop off U.S. Hwy. 59, 956/725-3826, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, $4 ages 13 and older). The park offers restrooms with showers, campsites with water and electricity, and playgrounds, sports courts, an amphitheater, a boat ramp, and two miles of mountain bike trails.
The Laredo Convention and Visitors Bureau (501 San Agustin Ave., 956/795-2200 or 800/361-3360, www.visitlaredo.com, Mon.-Fri. 9am-5:30pm, Sat. 9am-1pm) is a good place to pick up maps and brochures, and the staffers can handle most inquiries regarding businesses and services related to border crossing. The CVB also has a booth at the airport.
Although most Laredo visitors arrive via I-35, there’s also the Laredo International Airport (5210 Bob Bullock Loop, 956/795-2000, www.cityoflaredo.com/airport). The small airport offers daily flights to Dallas-Fort Worth, Houston, Las Vegas, and several other cities on three major airlines.
Known throughout the state as simply “the Valley,” this four-county area in South Texas extends from the mouth of the Rio Grande and continues for nearly 100 miles upriver. For most of its history, semidesert coastal plains occupied the land, but things dramatically changed when irrigation and railroads were introduced to the region in the early 20th century. Property in the area near present-day McAllen was selling for 25 cents an acre in 1903; three years later an acre was going for $50. The subsequent migration of farmers from the Midwest and immigrants from Mexico led to an enormous population growth in this once-desolate land.
The combination of irrigation and fertile river delta soil resulted in ideal conditions for farming, citrus in particular. Texas grapefruit, including the famous ruby red, and several varieties of oranges became big-time cash crops for the Valley. To this day, several counties in the region remain tops in the state in acres of fruit and vegetables harvested.
The Valley’s mild year-round climate also draws tourists and seasonal residents to its nearby beaches and resorts. McAllen, Brownsville, and other Valley communities have become winter homes for more than 125,000 northerners (outnumbering most cities in the area). Still, the local population remains the leading cultural force, with recent population figures showing nearly 85 percent of Valley residents being Hispanic.
Brownsville (population 183,887) offers the history and traditions of two countries in one border destination, and its towering palm trees and warm Gulf Coast breezes provide an ideal complement to its bird-watching and beachcombing opportunities. The city is also one of the few in the Valley with a deep history, dating to the mid-1700s (most other border communities are tied to the development of the railroad in the early 1900s).
Brownsville was the site of two important battles—Palo Alto and Palmito Ranch—of the U.S.-Mexican War (1846-48), which many historians consider a particularly significant war since its outcome resulted in the United States extending from sea to shining sea. The city also played a vital role in the Civil War thanks to its access to the Gulf of Mexico, allowing trade to continue with Europe without Union retaliation.
Agricultural trade was essential to Brownsville and the region, particularly its cotton industry. Cotton merchants and riverboat entrepreneurs such as Charles Stillman, Mifflin Kenedy, and Richard King made fortunes in their business dealings, resulting in massive land purchases leading to the birth of Texas’s ranching industry. Citrus farming later became a major industry, and the construction of a bridge over the Rio Grande led to increased trade with Mexico. In the 1930s, a ship channel was constructed, connecting Brownsville to the Gulf Coast. By the 1960s, the city’s industry received another economic boost via the Border Industrialization Program, which helped bring more than 100 manufacturing companies to Brownsville.
The city’s multicultural past is on display at the Historic Brownsville Museum (641 E. Madison St., 956/548-1313, www.historicbrownsvillehistory.org, Tues.-Sat. 10am-4pm, $5 adults, $4 seniors, $2 students). Housed in the remarkable 1928 Southern Pacific Railroad Depot (the city’s best example of Spanish Revival architecture), the museum’s abundant informative exhibits feature the history of city namesake Fort Brown, historic artifacts, regional artwork, and a Baldwin railroad engine. Local history is also the main draw at the Stillman House Museum (1325 E. Washington St., 956/542-3929, Tues.-Sat. 10am-noon and 2pm-4pm, $4). Housed in the 1850 downtown home of town elder Charles Stillman, the museum features plenty of historic images and items depicting the city’s ranching, education, and religious heritage as well as mid-19th-century Stillman family furnishings. The facility also offers tours and a research library.
One of the Valley’s preeminent art museums is the Brownsville Museum of Fine Art (600 Ringgold St., 956/542-8909, www.brownsvillemfa.org, Wed. 10am-8pm, Thurs.-Sat. 10am-4pm, $5 adults, $2.50 seniors and children ages 6-12). Next to the Gladys Porter Zoo, the museum prides itself on its regional and international art as well as its daily art classes. Exhibits range from local school competitions to renowned paintings and works of sculpture. Classes in different media are held in the historic 1850 Neale House, and the museum is also home to the original Fort Brown Bandstand.
Ecotourism (visitation dedicated to environmental and cultural awareness) is one of the biggest draws for visitors to the Brownsville area, and bird-watching is perhaps the most popular activity. Virtually all migratory bird species from the eastern United States and the Midwest pass through the region in the spring and fall, and an increasing number of area nature preserves and sanctuaries host exotic and rare birds not typically found in other parts of Texas or the United States. One of the best places to get a grip on the local birding scene is the Sabal Palm Sanctuary (8400 Southmost Rd., 956/541-8034, www.sabalpalmsanctuary.org, daily 7am-5pm, $5 adults, $3 students). The sanctuary offers 557 acres of preserved land, harboring many endangered species of birds and plants, including the marvelous sabal palm. Visitors can take self-guided tours on the sanctuary’s three miles of nature trails, allowing bird-watchers to have face-to-beak contact with long-billed thrashers, buff-bellied hummingbirds, and chacalacas. Be sure to drop by the recently restored 1892 Rabb Plantation House to learn about local history.
the Rabb Plantation House at Sabal Palm Sanctuary
Another place to find fine-feathered friends is Los Ebanos Preserve (north of Brownsville in San Benito at 27715 Hwy. 100, 956/399-9097, www.losebanospreserve.com, call for hours and to make a bird-watching appointment, prices vary). This 82-acre park is a haven for local bird and butterfly species. Tropical landscaping and gardens entice the winged wonders to frolic in the preserve while visitors track their activity through binoculars. Several trails include self-guided tours and the opportunity to see the elusive and tiny Brownsville common yellowthroat, previously thought to be extinct.
Just west of town is the Resaca de la Palma State Park (four miles west of Brownsville at 3301 S. International Blvd./FM 1015, 956/585-9156, www.worldbirdingcenter.org, tours by appointment and reservation only), offering the World Birding Center network’s largest tract of native habitat. The 1,700 acres of semitropical property provide an especially rich birding environment, with colorful species such as the yellow-breasted chatpool
Brownsville’s enduring military legacy is the centerpiece of the National Park Service’s Palo Alto Battlefield (five miles north of downtown Brownsville at the intersection of FM 1847 and FM 511, 956/541-2785, www.nps.gov/paal, daily 8am-5pm, free). On May 8, 1846, this unassuming site, marked by prickly pear cactus, spiky yucca plants, and miles of sandy soil, was the scene of a violent clash in the U.S.-Mexican War (1846-48), a conflict that played an important role in shaping America’s history. The desolate field may not seem significant now, but its place in history is put in context in the visitors center’s small theater, with the 15-minute video War on the Rio Grande. Although visitors center movies can occasionally be as inspiring as a middle school history lecture, this one is actually insightful and interesting, thanks to the National Park Service’s thorough research and quality production. Afterward, be sure to stroll as long as you’d like along the boardwalk, where informative displays point out significant military activities in the now-pristine battlefield.
One of the city’s most popular attractions is the small yet satisfying Gladys Porter Zoo (500 Ringgold St., 956/546-2177, www.gpz.org, daily 9am-5pm, with extended summer hours, $12 adults, $10.50 seniors, $8 children ages 2-13). The zoo features more than 1,600 animals representing nearly 400 species in four geographic areas: Africa, Asia, Indo-Australia, and tropical America. It also takes pride in its successful endangered-species breeding program. Built on an old channel of the Rio Grande, the Gladys Porter Zoo is designed to allow the animals to live in open exhibits surrounded by natural flowing waterways. Creatures drawing the largest crowds are the gorillas, bears, sea lions, and the myriad tropical birds that live in the zoo’s foliage. Kids will love Small World, featuring a nursery and petting zoo where they can touch and interact with domesticated animals.
Not surprisingly, Brownsville’s best eating establishments are Mexican restaurants. If you’re looking for the best available Mexican food (making a run for the border to experience the real deal is no longer an option), there are several noteworthy Tex-Mex spots in Brownsville. At the unique Trevino’s Restaurant (54 Boca Chica Blvd., 956/544-7866, Mon.-Sat. 7am-3am, Sun. 7am-midnight, $5-12), visitors know they’re getting fresh-made fare since the restaurant doubles as a tortilla factory and bakery/grocery store. Another popular spot near downtown is Mejia’s Easy to Go (2974 East Ave., 956/544-7266, Mon.-Sat. 11am-10pm, Sun. noon-9pm, $7-15), specializing in consistently tasty standards such as tacos, enchiladas, tostadas, fajitas, and flautas. Another local favorite is Taqueria y Antojito’s Rico’s (714 Military Rd. #281, 956/546-0014, Mon.-Thurs. 4pm-midnight, Fri.-Sat. 4pm-2am, Sun. noon-midnight, $5-12). You can’t go wrong with any of the beef-based items (bistec tacos, fajita tacos, and beef flautas are highly recommended), and the fresh avocados on the plates and in the guacamole are alone worth the trip.
Just north of downtown is The Vermillion (115 Paredes Line Rd., 956/542-9893, daily 11am-10:30pm, $8-18), a long-standing institution (since 1934) offering a bit more than the typical Tex-Mex specialties. Down-home Southern-style menu items such as chicken-fried steak, charbroiled chicken, and fried catfish still make this a true Tex-Mex option. Brownsville residents and Winter Texans alike flock here for the fully loaded nachos and beef tacos.
For basic yet consistently reliable Mexican dishes, go to the nearby Taco Palenque (1803 Boca Chica Blvd., 956/544-8400, daily 6:30am-11pm, $7-15). Locals line up for the breakfast tacos here, as well as the tasty tortillas, enchiladas, tostadas, and fajitas.
For big flavor at a small price, head to Taqueria Ultimo Taco (938 N. Hwy. 77/83, 956/554-7663, daily 11am-3am, $5-10). Like most restaurantes in the area, meals begin with a small serving of frijoles (charro beans), but be sure to save room for the tacos. At 97 cents, you can order a handful (they’re fairly small, so four or five per order is fairly common). Try the barbacoa and al pastor, and be sure to ask for them con todo (with everything), including avocado and queso fresco.
If you’re looking to travel back in time to the 1950s for some old-school seafood, head straight downtown to the historic Oyster Bar (1057 E. Levee St., 956-542-9786, Mon.-Sat. 11:30am-2:30pm and 5pm-9:30pm, Sun. noon-7pm, $8-17). The seafood is extremely fresh (the Gulf Coast is only 20 miles away), and the atmosphere is homey, with wood-paneled walls and local knickknacks from the past several decades. The food is the main draw, though, with menu highlights including perfectly fried shrimp, locally famous oysters, and enough baked potatoes and iceberg lettuce to remind you that you can’t go wrong with the classics.
Like other border towns, Brownsville’s accommodations are relatively affordable, although the lower-tier options tend to be pretty sketchy. To be safe, go with one of the more expensive chains along U.S. Highway 77/83.
On the northern edge of downtown is the reasonably priced Best Western Casa Villa Suites (4317 S. Expy. 83, 956/412-1500, www.bestwesterntexas.com, $88 d), offering a free breakfast buffet, an outdoor pool with a hot tub, and Internet access. A bit closer to town is Hampton Inn & Suites (3000 N. Hwy. 77/83, 956/548-0005, www.hamptoninn.com, $84 d), featuring a free hot breakfast buffet, swimming pool, whirlpool, fitness center, and wireless Internet access.
Farther north of downtown on U.S. Highway 83 are several higher-end options (in Brownsville terms), which tend to be newer and oriented toward business clients. For fully furnished rooms, consider Staybridge Suites (2900 Pablo Kisel Blvd., 800/970-4654, www.staybridge.com, $98 d), with equipped kitchens, living room areas, and office space along with free Internet access, a complimentary breakfast buffet and evening happy hour, a fitness center, and an outdoor pool. For a clean and reliable place to stay, you can’t go wrong with La Quinta (5051 North Expy., 956/350-2118, www.lq.com, $119 d), a pet-friendly facility that provides amenities like free Wi-Fi, free breakfast, and an outdoor pool.
The best place to stock up on maps and brochures about area attractions is the Brownsville Convention & Visitors Bureau (2305 N. Hwy. 77/83, 956/546-3721, www.brownsville.org). Offering info about businesses in the area is the Brownsville Chamber of Commerce (1600 University Blvd., 956/542-4341, www.brownsvillechamber.com).
One of the fastest-growing cities in the country, McAllen’s (population 140,260) initial development was so slow, the town actually ceased to exist about 100 years ago. The railroad and citrus industries helped keep the burgeoning village afloat, and it eventually went on to become an important agricultural center with one of the busiest access points between Mexico and Texas.
Like other Valley cities, McAllen’s mild temperatures and subtropical climate make it a destination for Winter Texans and birders. It doesn’t have the dense historical fabric of other border towns, but McAllen’s newest residents have had a distinct cultural impact on the community. Wildlife refuges, a renowned art museum, and the city’s status as the “Square Dance Capital of the World” reflect the values of the seasonal and newly arrived population. But why square dancing? Many Winter Texans enjoy retirement by grabbing their partners and do-si-do-ing while expert callers direct the action at dance halls open nightly throughout town. Things get even crazier the first Saturday of February, when thousands of people converge on McAllen for the Texas Square Dance Jamboree.
The finest cultural experience in the region awaits at McAllen’s International Museum of Art and Science (1900 Nolana Ave., 956/682-1564, www.theimasonline.org, Tues.-Sat. 9am-3pm, Thurs. until 8pm, Sun. 1pm-5pm, $7 adults, $5 seniors ages 55 and older, $4 children ages 4-12). Spanning several centuries’ worth of artwork ranging from European masters to Mexican folk art to enormous sculptures, the museum is a destination for those intrigued by intellectual endeavors. The fine art and pre-Columbian objects are joined by items in the Earth Science Gallery, including fossils, geological samples, and dinosaur prints. The museum’s primary focus is its impressive collection of objects from the Americas, represented by folk art such as masks and ceramics.
Though border-hopping is discouraged these days, visitors may still be interested in viewing the operation of Los Ebanos Ferry (west of McAllen off U.S. Hwy. 83 at FM 886, daily 8am-4pm). This “ancient” (1954) mode of transport is the last hand-pulled ferry on the Rio Grande. Crew members use ropes and pulleys to carry a maximum of three cars and a small number of pedestrians across the river on this modest metal barge. Customers are welcome to take part in the fun by yanking on the rugged, thick ropes if they choose. Border inspection stations are set up on both banks of the river, and the journey across takes a scant five minutes. Note: The ferry doesn’t run on a consistent schedule, so it’s occasionally unavailable.
The McAllen area is home to several acclaimed birding sites catering to the thousands of visitors who arrive annually to keep an eye on their feathered friends. The city helps operate the World Birding Center’s Quinta Mazatlan (600 Sunset Ave., 956/688-3370, www.worldbirdingcenter.org, Tues.-Sat. 8am-5pm, $3 adults, $2 seniors and children). Near downtown on the grounds of Quinta Mazatlan (Spanish for country estate), the site is an urban oasis offering 15 acres of tropical gardens, native woodlands, and a beautiful 10,000-square-foot historic Spanish Revival adobe hacienda. Naturalists enjoy the walking trails, butterfly garden, nature exhibits, birding feeding stations, and bird meadow, where they can spot elusive local bird species such as the black-bellied whistling duck, buff-bellied hummingbird, and olive sparrow.
A few miles east of town near the community of Alamo is the highly regarded Santa Ana National Wildlife Refuge (off U.S. Hwy. 281 at FM 907, 956/784-7500, www.fws.gov, trails open daily dawn-dusk, driving tour open summer weekends 9am-4pm, $3 per vehicle). Nearly 400 bird species live in this 2,000-acre refuge, established in 1943 to protect the thousands of birds that funnel through the region as they migrate to and from Central and South America. This small patch of semitropical thorn forest that once dominated the area also hosts nearly half of all butterfly species found in the United States. The refuge contains a visitors center offering field guides, insect repellent, bird lists, and binoculars, and many visitors opt to experience the property via a 90-minute interpretive tram tour (three daily trips Thanksgiving-end of April, $3 adults, $1 children).
The Bentsen-Rio Grande Valley State Park (2800 S. Bentsen Palm Dr., 956/585-1107, www.tpwd.texas.gov, daily 7am-10pm, $5 ages 12 and older, $3 seniors) bills itself as the “crown jewel of Rio Grande Valley parks.” Just west of McAllen in the town of Mission, its lofty claims are supported by the World Birding Center, which is headquartered at this one-of-a-kind 760-acre park. Birders flock here for the “Valley specialties” and “Mexican vagrants” (the species found exclusively in this region). Park officials strive to retain the natural state by maintaining the distinctive woodlands and re-creating the flooding that previously nourished the land. These conditions (and the park’s feeding stations) draw species popular with the birding crowd, such as the chacalaca, green jay, broad-winged hawk, and the awesomely named northern beardless-tyrannulet. Visitors can ride the tram, bike, or walk through the park, which offers observation decks, bird blinds, bike rentals, nature programs, and a visitors center surrounded by butterfly gardens and hummingbird feeders.
There’s no shortage of quality food in McAllen, so visitors shouldn’t feel obligated to cross national boundaries in search of a good meal. Although the city’s Mexican food is predictably commendable, there are other worthy locales in town offering fresh takes on American classics.
For a truly authentic local experience with amazing food, head directly to S Rex Cafe (321 S. 17th St., 956/686-9074, daily 6am-8pm, $6-15). This multi-generation family establishment has been serving traditional Tex-Mex classics since the 1950s, and there’s a reason loyal customers have dined here for decades. The bakery is famous for its Mexican pastries—the cinnamon rolls are exquisite, and the fruit-filled empanadas are perfect to eat on-site or later from a to-go bag. The breakfast is equally delicious, especially the huevos rancheros. Order them over-medium with some extra flour tortillas and enjoy the immense sabor of each bite.
A reliable local hangout, La Justica Restaurante (5421 N. 23rd St., 956/928-1905, Mon.-Sat 6:30am-9pm, Sun. 7:30am-3pm, $6-14) offers a dose of rustic charm. Start with the caldo de pollo, a savory chicken soup loaded with meat and potatoes and fresh veggies (jalapeño, onion, cilantro) on the side. Then feast on a sumptuous entrée, such as the chicken mole with its smooth yet spicy sauce. Somewhat more upscale is the fantastic Costa Messa (1621 N. 11th, 956/618-5449, daily 11am-10pm, $9-24), where authentic Mexican meals are accompanied most weekend nights by a trio of guitarists or even a mariachi band. The best way to sample many of Costa Messa’s delectable menu items is via the botana platter, a tantalizing mix of fajitas, quesadillas, flautas, and fried zucchini. Be sure to order the fresh guacamole, served with crispy fried tortilla halves.
Those searching for a reliably tasty lunch should visit La Casa del Taco (1100 W. Houston Ave., 956/631-8193, daily 7am-10pm, $5-12), a Valley stalwart featuring better-than-average standards such as tacos, burritos, and enchiladas. The margaritas here are particularly popular (and potent).
Considered one of the finest Mexican spots in town is the slightly more expensive Palenque Grill (606 E. Hwy. 83, 956/618-5959, www.palenquegrill.com, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-11pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-midnight $8-28). Fancy fajitas are a specialty here, and not just because they spare you the spectacle of bringing them out on a sizzling skillet. The quality of the beef, shrimp, and chicken is top-notch, and the fresh flour tortillas provide a tasty wrapping. Other fine options include pork al pastor and the sarandeado fish. Not nearly as fancy is local mainstay Delia’s (4800 S. 23rd St., 956/630-3502, Mon.-Sat. 6am-8pm, Sun. 7am-6pm, $4-10), known for its tamales . . . and its tamales. Tucked in a shopping center corner, Delia’s offers tasty tamales of all types, from chicken to pork to sweet and spicy varieties.
You’ll feel right at home (if you live on a ranch) at the Republic of the Rio Grande Grill and Cantina (1411 S. 10th St., 956/994-8385, www.therepublicoftheriogrande.com, Mon.-Sat. 11am-10pm, $10-26). This knickknack-stocked establishment specializes in down-home cuisine, including steaks, seafood, chicken, and the enormous Lone Star Burger, doused in tangy homemade barbecue sauce. Snag a seat on the patio by the fountain if possible, and be sure to save room for the almond taco dessert (a sweet shell filled with fruit and cream).
Because it’s a relatively new city, McAllen doesn’t have many funky/interesting historic lodging options. However, there’s a fairly wide range of relatively affordable chains to choose from offering standard amenities. One of the few independently owned options is La Copa Hotel (2000 S. 10th St., 956/686-1741, www.lacopainn.com, $67.40 d), featuring a free hot Belgian waffle breakfast and free Internet access in all rooms, as well as a heated pool, fitness room, and Jacuzzi.
A step up in price and quality is the remarkable S Renaissance Casa de Palmas (101 N. Main St., 956/631-1101, www.marriott.com, $129 d), a stunning Spanish Revival structure in the heart of downtown. Lush tropical landscaping on the surrounding grounds and an inviting interior courtyard set this hotel apart from the rest, along with its state-of-the-art fitness center, minibars, Spanish Room restaurant, and wireless Internet access.
One of the nicest and most expensive places in town is Embassy Suites (1800 S. 2nd St., 956/686-3000, www.embassysuites.com, $197 d), with its welcoming tropical courtyard and fountain, fitness room, pool, free cooked-to-order breakfast and nightly manager’s reception, and rooms featuring refrigerators, microwaves, and free wireless Internet access.
The McAllen Convention & Visitors Bureau (1200 Ash Ave., 956/682-2871, www.mcallenchamber.com, Mon.-Fri. 8am-5pm) is a great source of information for places to go locally, including a variety of friendly personal service along with maps, brochures, and guides.
Some locals would prefer if Harlingen (population 65,774) was referred to as a Valley city instead of a border town. There’s quite a difference. Harlingen has a proud connection to its neighboring Mexican culture, but its small-town American sensibility—with a traditional grid-patterned Main Street-style downtown based on the railroad—differs from the nearby rough-around-the-edges border communities.
In fact, residents of those border towns often go to Harlingen specifically for its folksy Americana. Jackson Street, the main drag of the city’s historic commercial district, hosts traditional downtown shops and restaurants. What sets it apart from other Main Street communities in Texas are the towering palm trees and occasional sounds of Tejano music drifting from a lunch counter or passing vehicle.
Geographically, Harlingen is part of the Valley region, but the Lower Rio Grande is actually considered a rich river delta. The fertile soil was the main draw for the farmers (citrus, especially) who came here in the late 1800s/early 1900s. Harlingen grew even more when the railroad arrived in 1904, connecting it to larger coastal cities like Brownsville and Corpus Christi.
The railroad put Harlingen on track for development, particularly with the region’s plentiful produce being packed in the city’s icehouses and shipped north on the rails. Harlingen didn’t see a notable population increase until the 1920s, when land developers allegedly hoodwinked some Yankees to the Texas tropics. Local legend claims the railroad companies advertised the Harlingen area’s fertile and affordable land before loading northerners on trains to see this “land of opportunity.” When the trains got to the dry, dusty, and desolate King Ranch area, developers would lower the window shades and open bottles of booze so potential property buyers would be in good spirits by the time they arrived in Harlingen’s tropical environs. Many people enthusiastically purchased plots of land immediately on sight, and the region’s population went from around 1,700 people to nearly 12,000 in a 10-year period.
Located at the former Harlingen Army Air Field site, the Harlingen Arts and Heritage Museum (2425 Boxwood St., 956/216-4901, Tues.-Sat. 10am-4pm, Sun. 1pm-4pm, $2 adults, $1 children) complex contains several facilities representing Harlingen’s colorful past. One of the main attractions is the Lon C. Hill Home, a relocated 1904 structure where Harlingen’s founding father lived with his eight children. The home features a compelling collection of historic photos and period antiques chronicling family and frontier life in the early 1900s. Other notable attractions include the (relocated) 1850s Stagecoach Inn and 1923 Harlingen Hospital, with its freaky antique medical equipment. The Harlingen Arts and Heritage Museum also contains a modern main building with rotating cultural exhibits and touring art shows.
Harlingen’s most recognizable attraction is its Iwo Jima Memorial and Museum (320 Iwo Jima Blvd., 956/421-9234, www.mma-tx.org). This massive outdoor structure is the original working model used by sculptor Dr. Felix de Weldon while casting the official bronze version in Washington, D.C. Not surprisingly, the monument is just as powerful as the true rendering, with its six inspirational figures stirring patriotic emotions among the veterans and visitors who make regular pilgrimages here. The structure was donated to the nearby Marine Military Academy to inspire young cadets and also to acknowledge the regional connection to one of the soldiers depicted in the monument.
Harlingen’s famous Iwo Jima Memorial
The nearby museum and gift shop (associated with the Marine Military Academy) feature exhibits and displays primarily related to the U.S. Marine Corps. Other attractions include an educational film about the Battle for Iwo Jima and the Iwo Jima Veterans Hall of Fame.
A visit to the Valley would be incomplete without paying homage to the citrus industry that paved the way for the region’s development. The famous ruby red grapefruits come from this area, and one of the best-known and most-visited sites in the Valley is the Harlingen-based Granny Clare’s Citrus at Rio Pride Orchards (14748 Hoss Ln., 956/423-1191, www.grannyclarescitrusatrioprideorchards.com, Mon.-Fri. 8am-5pm, Sat. 8am-1pm). The orchard is at its peak November-March, when succulent grapefruit and plump oranges burst from the groves, much to the delight of farmers and tourists. Drop by the orchard for some flavorful fresh fruit and a history lesson about the agricultural industry that put the Rio Grande Valley on the map.
Even if you’re not a Segway person, it’s worth learning how to maneuver these formerly futuristic machines, often with a group of brave senior citizens, via SegValley Tours (956/565-2404, www.segvalley.com/harlingen-downtown, available Oct-May by reservation only, $65-$85). A helpful and patient guide will help you get your bearings on these easier-than-expected vehicles, then you’re off to explore historic downtown Harlingen at brisk speeds of up to 12 mph. You’ll learn about the unique history of the town and visit long-standing businesses and a lush park.
SegValley Tours take visitors through downtown Harlingen.
One of Harlingen’s top natural attractions is the spectacular 55-acre Hugh Ramsey Nature Park (1001 S. Loop 499, 956/216-5951, www.theworldbirdingcenter.com, daily 6am-9pm). This is a paradise for nature tourists who flock to this pristine swath of Valley vegetation containing dozens of varieties of rare birds, subtropical plants, and colorful butterflies. Although the park peaks during winter months, its peaceful gardens and pleasant walking paths are a welcome natural attraction throughout the year. Just be sure to bring plenty of bug repellent since the mosquitoes are relentless in this naturally lush area.
Since border-hopping is no longer an option in the Valley, the closest most visitors will get to Mexican food is in Texas. Fortunately, Harlingen has several worthy options, including Pepe’s Mexican Restaurant (117 S. 77 Sunshine Strip, 956/423-3663, Mon.-Sat. 11am-9pm, $7-15). Don’t skip the chips and salsa here since they’re one of the highlights, using crispy tortillas and slightly spicy salsa. That’s not to say the rest of the menu is lacking; in fact, the entrées are some of the best in the region. The chicken mole, in particular, perfectly captures the rich flavor you’d expect in a traditional mole sauce, and the enchiladas verdes offer the perfect balance of tangy tomatillo sauce and heartily seasoned chicken.
Another authentic Mexican option (more Mex, less Tex) is La Playa Mexican Café (502 S. 77 Sunshine Strip, 956/421-2000, www.laplayacafe.com, Sun.-Mon. 11am-9pm, Tues.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-11pm, $9-17). The first thing you may notice is that the mariachi band is quite loud (in a good way), allowing you to focus on enjoying the perfecto margaritas instead of conversation. You can also appreciate that the queso isn’t the Velveeta-y yellow color most people expect; instead, it’s a white cheese served with fried flour tortilla chips. Main dishes are inventive and flavorful, ranging from shrimp amarrados (cheese and jalapeño-stuffed shrimp wrapped in bacon), chipotle chicken enchiladas, and shrimp and scallop-stuffed eggplant.
If you’re looking for more traditional Tex-Mex in a casual atmosphere, go to Los Asados (210 N. 77 Sunshine Strip, 956/421-3074, www.losasados.com, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-9:30pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-10pm, $7-14). If you happen to be with a group, be sure to order the botana, a platter crammed with beef and chicken fajita meat, beans, cheese, guacamole, and jalapeños. Other specialties include verde enchiladas, crispy beef tacos, and chicken burritos.
One of the best lodging deals in Harlingen is Country Inn & Suites (3825 S. Expy. 83, 956/428-0043, www.countryinns.com, $93 d). Amenities include an outdoor pool and whirlpool, an on-site fitness center, free wireless Internet access, complimentary hot breakfast daily, and, as an added bonus, free 24-hour coffee, cookies, and candy in the lobby. Another affordable option is Holiday Inn Express (501 S. P St., 956/428-9292, www.hiexpress.com, $93 d). The hotel features an outdoor heated pool with adjacent Jacuzzi, a fitness center, and free breakfast bar.
For a slight increase in price and quality, consider Hampton Inn & Suites (1202 Ed Carey Dr., 956/428-9800, $109 d). The Hampton offers Internet access, a free breakfast, an exercise room, and an outdoor pool. For those in search of the sparkling new hotels, there’s Best Western Casa Villa Suites (4317 S. Expy. 83, 956/412-1500, www.bestwestern.com, $88 d). Amenities include a complimentary hot breakfast Monday-Friday (continental breakfast on weekends), free newspaper, outdoor pool and hot tub, exercise room, and free Wi-Fi service.
The Harlingen Convention and Visitors Bureau (311 E. Tyler St., 956/423-5440 or 800/531-7346, www.visitharlingentexas.com) can assist travelers with brochures, maps, and personal advice. Another helpful resource is the knowledgeable Downtown Harlingen (956/216-4910, www.myharlingen.us), which helps visitors discover local businesses and hard-to-find resources.
Since the Valley is pretty far removed from other parts of Texas, some travelers choose to fly to the region for spring break or just to avoid the long stretch of uninspiring ranch land driving. The Valley International Airport (3002 Heritage Way, 956/430-8600, www.flythevalley.com) in Harlingen offers Southwest Airlines and United Express as the main airline carriers.
For those traveling by car, the drive is fairly long but moves fairly quickly through vast stretches of King Ranch on U.S. Highway 77. From San Antonio, take I-37 South to U.S. Highway 77. The drive takes about 3.5 hours. Be sure to have enough gas and food before entering the 45-minute stretch of nothing between Sarita and Raymondville.
