a historic steam train at The History Center
Beaumont (population 118,129) isn’t your average Texas midsize city. It’s more connected to the eastern United States than other Southern communities, it has a working-class union element, and it has a denser historic downtown than its wide-open West Texas brethren. Its proximity to New Orleans and the Gulf Coast along with its two nearby sister cities of Port Arthur and Orange have earned the area the nickname “the Cajun Triangle.”
The city’s (and state’s and country’s) fate was forever changed on the morning of January 10, 1901, when the Lucas Gusher erupted from the Spindletop oil field. Tens of thousands of people flocked to Beaumont to capitalize on the oil boom and, in the process, built an impressive collection of churches, civic buildings, and residences. The impact on Beaumont resulted in a true American melting pot, with Italian and Jewish influences combined with Cajun and African American inspirations. The city’s architectural treasures remain an integral part of downtown’s distinctive historical charm.
Although the corporate oil scene would eventually move to nearby Houston (about 80 miles to the southwest), Beaumont’s petroleum-related legacy remains its true identity. In 1901, the first year of the boom, three major companies formed—the Gulf Oil Corporation, Humble (later Exxon), and the Texas Company (later Texaco). One year later, more than 500 Texas corporations were doing business in Beaumont.
However, the boom soon went bust, as Spindletop quickly fell victim to an overabundance of wells. Two decades later, new advancements in the oil industry allowed riggers to dig wells deeper, resulting in another Spindletop boom. In 1927, the oil field yielded its all-time annual high of 21 million barrels.
The Beaumont area never experienced another major surge, but the city had landed on the map, with corporations and families from across the country relocating to the region. During World War II the city prospered as a shipbuilding center, and the petrochemical industry continued to sustain the economy for decades to come.
Meanwhile, the nearby coastal communities of Port Arthur and Orange benefited from Beaumont’s corporate and cultural activity. Although the oil money never made this Golden Triangle as prosperous as its name implies, the region benefited by opening several art museums, forging a soulful music identity, and capitalizing on its Cajun culture by developing fabulous food establishments.
To get a true sense of the craziness that befell Beaumont upon the discovery of the Spindletop oil field, visit the intriguing Spindletop-Gladys City Boomtown Museum (5550 Jimmy Simmons Blvd., 409/880-1750, www.spindletop.org, Tues.-Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. 1pm-5pm, $5 adults, $3 seniors, $2 children ages 6-12). Near the site of the famous Lucas Gusher, the museum offers a self-guided tour of 15 clapboard building replicas from the oil-boom era, including a general store, saloon, post office, stable, and blacksmith shop. The buildings and associated photos and interpretive panels tell the story of the massive and unprecedented boomtown saga, where Beaumont transformed from a village of several hundred to a city of nearly 30,000 in a matter of weeks. The museum also features wooden oil derricks of the era, including a life-size water-spewing gusher that keeps families entertained and refreshed during the hot summer months.
One of the city’s top tourist destinations is the remarkable 1906 McFaddin-Ward House (1906 Calder Ave., 409/832-2134, www.mcfaddin-ward.org, Tues.-Sat. 10am-3pm, Sun. 1pm-3pm, closed at lunch, $5 guided tours, ages 8 and up only). This impressive beaux arts-style mansion features beautiful decorative exterior detailing and opulent interior furnishings reflecting the lifestyle of William McFaddin, a member of one of Texas’s oldest and wealthiest families. McFaddin was a Texas Army veteran who created a cattle and oil empire from the land he received for his military service. The guided tours of his family’s fabulous home and adjacent carriage house provide anecdotal and architectural background information along with up close views of furniture, artwork, and mementos showcasing this prominent Texas family.
Somewhat surprisingly, Beaumont boasts nearly 20 museums. Among the best is the downtown Texas Energy Museum (600 Main St., 409/833-5100, www.texasenergymuseum.org, Tues.-Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. 1pm-5pm, $2 adults, $1 seniors and children ages 6-12). This spacious two-story facility features a fascinating collection of exhibits dedicated to, appropriately enough, oil-based energy sources. Interactive displays highlight the history of oil as a versatile resource and provide vital information about the global significance of this local commodity. Though the name is somewhat misleading—there aren’t any power plants or lightbulbs here—the museum succeeds in educating visitors about the remarkable history and relevance of the petrochemical industry.
The nearby Fire Museum of Texas (400 Walnut St., 409/880-3927, www.firemuseumoftexas.org, Mon.-Fri. 8am-4:30pm, free) is another unexpected gem. The small museum, housed in the 1927 Beaumont Fire Department Headquarters Station, is practically dwarfed by the massive black-and-white-spotted “world’s largest fire hydrant” in front of the building. Now considered the not-quite-as-impressive third-largest in the world, this 24-foot-tall hydrant was donated to the museum by Disney Studios in conjunction with the release of the animated movie 101 Dalmatians. Inside, the facility showcases the importance of firefighters in Texas and across the country through vintage fire engines and equipment, educational exhibits, and the Texas Firefighter Memorial.
Babe who? You’ll be telling everyone about her after experiencing the captivating Babe Didrikson Zaharias Museum (1750 I-10 E., 409/833-4622, www.babedidriksonzaharias.org, Mon.-Sat. 9am-5pm, free). Port Arthur native Zaharias was a pioneer in women’s sports who was voted the world’s greatest woman athlete of the first half of the 20th century in a poll conducted by the Associated Press. Nicknamed “Babe” after swatting five home runs in one baseball game, Zaharias was an accomplished Olympic athlete, tennis player, basketball player, diver, bowler, and, most notably, golfer. She won every major professional golf championship at least once and is credited with single-handedly popularizing women’s golf. The museum features trophies, golf clubs, photos, newspaper clippings, Olympic medals, and films representing her fascinating and enormously successful athletic career.
For a lively dinner-and-drinks atmosphere, go to Madison’s on Dowlen (4020 Dowlen Rd., 409/924-9777, www.madisonsoftexas.com, daily 11am-2am, $9-24). Classic American fare is the best option here, with reliable (and huge) burgers, chicken, and fried food. For an added burst of flavor, try the bacon-wrapped shrimp with jalapeño. Things pick up at Madison’s after dark, when bands often take the stage and the bar gets busy.
Much more inspiring than its name implies is The Grill (6680 Calder Ave., 409/866-0039, www.theaspgrill.com, Tues.-Sat. 3pm-10pm, $10-32). This is fine dining in modern Beaumont style: quality food with attentive service in a refined atmosphere. Recommendable menu items include the parmesan-crusted Chilean sea bass, grilled rack of lamb, and au poivre tournedos (beef tenderloin with a tasty cognac mushroom sauce). Be sure to save room for the amazing tres leches cake, topped with a velvety goat’s milk caramel.
Beaumont is one of the best places in Texas to get authentic Cajun food, and the city’s proximity to the Gulf of Mexico means the seafood is always immensely fresh and flavorful. A favorite among locals is the no-frills Sartin’s West (1990 I-10 S., 409/861-3474, Tues.-Thurs. 11am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-10pm, Sun. 11am-3pm, $10-25). Beaumonters can’t get enough of its fantastic barbecued crabs, and for good reason: These tasty morsels are succulent and slightly spicy, an ideal representation of Beaumont’s distinctive cuisine. Other popular menu items include the broiled seafood platter and any variety of shrimp (fried, grilled, or peel-and-eat).
Another spot where locals line up is the consistently delectable Vautrot’s Cajun Cuisine (13350 Hwy. 105, 409/753-2015, www.vautrots.com, Tues.-Fri. 11am-2pm and 5pm-9pm, Sat. 11am-9pm, $8-19). Start with the tasty crawfish étouffée or jam-packed gumbo, or go crazy and proceed directly to the ridiculously large and immensely flavorful Uncle Emrick’s Seafood Sampler, containing the gumbo and étouffée along with fried crawfish, fried catfish, fried shrimp, fried oysters, onion rings or french fries, and a, er, healthy salad.
Floyd’s Cajun Seafood (2290 I-10 S., 409/842-0686, www.floydsbeaumont.com, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-11pm, $9-21) is a small regional chain that’s huge on authentic flavor. You’ll find all the reliable standards here, from crawfish and shrimp to oysters and catfish. Floyd’s specializes in southern Louisiana home-style cooking, with regional favorites like po-boys (go for the shrimp or crawfish), gumbo, and étouffée.
For a modest-size city, Beaumont is surprisingly lacking in downtown hotels within walking distance of its many museums and cultural attractions. A popular and reliable option is Econo Lodge Inn & Suites (2030 N. 11th St., 409/892-6700, www.choicehotels.com, $79 d), featuring free wireless Internet access, a free deluxe continental breakfast, a fitness center, and an outdoor pool.
The best bang for the buck is SHoliday Inn Beaumont-Plaza (3950 I-10 S., 409/842-5995 or 800/465-4329, www.holidayinn.com, $95 d). An enormous three-story cascading waterfall greets guests as they enter the spacious garden atrium, and the renovated rooms provide clean and comfortable accommodations. The Plaza location (not to be confused with Holiday Inn Midtown) features free Wi-Fi service, an indoor pool and whirlpool, a full-feature fitness center, and free meals for kids 12 and under.
Representing the upper tier of Beaumont’s lodging options is the regional chain MCM Elegante (2355 I-10 S., 409/842-3600, www.mcmelegantebeaumont.com, $99 d). The hotel features a tropical outdoor pool, a fancy fitness center, free Wi-Fi access, refrigerators, and microwaves. Another consistently solid choice is Homewood Suites by Hilton (3745 I-10 S., 409/842-9990, www.homewoodsuites3.hilton.com, $129 d), four miles from downtown. The suites feature separate living and sleeping areas, fully equipped kitchens with full-size fridges, and Wi-Fi. Accommodations include a full breakfast each morning, evening dinner and drinks (Mon.-Thurs.), and even a complimentary grocery shopping service. For those traveling with four-legged companions, it’s worth noting that Homewood Suites is a dog-friendly hotel.
To get a handle on the layout of the city and where things are in relation to your hotel, contact the friendly folks at the Beaumont Convention & Visitors Bureau (505 Willow St., 409/880-3749 or 800/392-4401, www.beaumontcvb.com, Mon.-Fri. 8am-5pm). The other visitors center is at the Babe Didrikson Zaharias Museum (1750 I-10, 409/833-4622, daily 9am-5pm).
With Houston being such a megalopolis, it’s not surprising that the 75-minute drive on I-10 to Beaumont is considered somewhat of a suburban commute. Though the cities have completely different identities, the “quick” jaunt between them (by Texas standards) makes it an easy day trip.
If you’re traveling to the region by air, your closest options are in Houston. The George Bush Intercontinental Airport (2800 N. Terminal Rd., 281/230-3100, www.airport-houston.com), just north of Houston, is one of the major hubs for United Airlines. Houston’s old airport, William P. Hobby Airport (7800 Airport Blvd., 713/640-3000, www.fly2houston.com/hobby), is now the center of activity for Southwest Airlines.
Once you’re in Beaumont, it’s pretty easy to get most places in about 15 minutes. If you don’t have a car, there are several cab companies available, including Royal Taxi (409/289-5783) and Yellow Cab Beaumont (409/860-3335). If you’re feeling adventurous, you may even consider tackling the Beaumont Municipal Transit System buses (409/835-7895, www.beaumonttransit.com).
It’s worth making the short drive (20 miles) from Beaumont to Port Arthur (population 55,340), even if it’s just to spend an afternoon at a museum or sampling some seafood. With several major oil refineries in operation, Port Arthur’s economy remains primarily petro-centered. Named for Arthur Stillwell, a Kansas City businessperson who brought the railroad to town, this low-key community has been tied to the shipping industry since a navigable canal was dredged in the early 1900s.
Aside from oil and ocean commerce, Port Arthur is known for churning out music stars (Janis Joplin, the Big Bopper, Johnny Winter, and Tex Ritter are area natives) as well as its Cajun food, fishing, and legendary Mardi Gras celebration, drawing tens of thousands of people each February for the festive atmosphere.
Get a grasp on the Golden Triangle’s illustrious history at the Museum of the Gulf Coast (700 Proctor St., 409/982-7000, www.museumofthegulfcoast.org, Mon.-Sat. 9am-5pm, $6 adults, $5 seniors, $3 students ages 4-18). In a large downtown two-story former bank building, the museum covers a lot of ground. From prehistoric items to Texas Revolution artifacts to modern mementos, the Museum of the Gulf Coast offers a comprehensive representation of cultural events in the region. Be sure to check out the replica of Janis Joplin’s painted psychedelic Porsche in the museum’s music exhibit, where visitors can play songs on a jukebox (for free) and browse among the displays dedicated to the surprising number of musicians from the area, including Joplin, George Jones, the Big Bopper, Tex Ritter, and members of ZZ Top. Nearby, a similarly large (head-scratchingly so) number of sports legends and celebrities are featured in the pop culture exhibit, including Jimmy Johnson, Bum and Wade Phillips, and, perhaps most head-scratchingly, two Police Academy stars (G. W. Bailey and Charles “Bubba” Smith).
The Sabine Pass Battleground State Historic Site (6100 Dick Dowling Rd., 512/463-7948, www.visitsabinepassbattleground.com, free), 12 miles south of town, is worth visiting even if you aren’t a history buff. Owned and operated by the Texas Historical Commission, this 58-acre site tells the story of a fierce Civil War battle where severely outnumbered Confederate troops prevailed over a formidable Union fleet. Interpretive panels in a large concrete kiosk, several historical markers, and a big bronze statue help portray the conflict. Visitors also have access to walking trails and camping facilities overlooking the Sabine Ship Channel.
For a unique experience, drop by the Buu Mon Buddhist Temple (2701 Procter St., 409/982-9319, www.buumon.org). Established as the first Buddhist center in Beaumont (an inspiration for the name), the temple moved to Port Arthur and is now located in a former Baptist and Vietnamese Catholic church. Where there was once a steeple, a stupa now exists. Instead of a crucifix, a seven-foot-tall gilt bronze Buddha now rests on the altar. The temple’s annual spring garden tour attracts hundreds of Texans in search of pleasing colors and smells in the lotus garden. Monks are always on hand to enthusiastically guide visitors through the temple and the garden, and even offer a cup of freshly brewed green tea.
Port Arthur is known across Texas for its excellent seafood and Cajun restaurants. One of the best spots in town is the bland-looking yet consistently tasty Bruce’s Seafood Deli (6801 9th Ave., 409/727-3184, Mon.-Sat. 10am-9pm, $8-19). You can’t go wrong with the basics here—shrimp, crawfish, and catfish. Although just about everything is deep fried, it’s incredibly flavorful and fresh. The uninspiring decor (it appears to have been a former fast-food or pizza chain restaurant) allows you to focus on the main event: fine seafood. Another favorite Bayou-style eatery is Larry’s French Market and Cajun Cafeteria (3701 Atlantic Hwy., Groves, 409/962-3381, www.larrysfrenchmarket.com, Mon.-Wed. 11am-2pm, Thurs. 11am-9pm, Fri. 11am-10pm, Sat. 5pm-11pm, $8-21), offering an ideal all-inclusive combo (the Captain’s Platter), featuring fresh and flavorful shrimp, catfish, oysters, barbecue crabs, fried crawfish, seafood gumbo, and Cajun fries. Alternate menu options include the “boiled water critters” (crawfish and crab) served with corn, potatoes, and a dipping sauce, as well as fried critters (alligator, frog legs). Larry’s often hosts live music, so check the website for showtimes.
Locals tend to loiter at the traditionally minded and classically decorated (aka dated) The Schooner (1507 S. Hwy. 69, 409/722-2323, www.theschoonerrestaurant.com, Mon.-Sat 11am-10pm, $9-25). Seafood is the main catch here, ranging from fresh fillets to fried platters. Popular menu items include the broiled fillet of snapper, stuffed crab, and oysters.
One of Texas’s easternmost and oldest cities is Orange (population 19,347), a border town (with Louisiana) named for orange groves along the Sabine River. It never experienced the same gushing levels of successful oil activity as Beaumont and Port Arthur, but it was an important industrial port during the two World Wars, boasting an all-time-high population of 60,000 in the mid-1940s.
Decades earlier, Orange was infamous for its red-light district and outlaw reputation. Its respectability increased when shipbuilding kept the local economy afloat during wartime. Though many residents fled to larger cities in subsequent decades, Orange continues to draw hordes of anglers and outdoors enthusiasts for its abundant hunting, birding, and freshwater and saltwater fishing.
Named for Orange native Henry J. Lutcher Stark, a successful lumber baron and entrepreneur, the Stark Museum of Art (712 Green Ave., 409/886-2787, www.starkculturalvenues.org, Tues.-Sat. 9am-5pm, free) showcases the family’s extensive collection of art related to the American West. Paintings, prints, and sculpture depict the breathtaking landscapes and natural features of the West, along with other artistic mediums such as bronze Remington sculptures, Native American pottery and baskets, and Steuben crystal.
To learn more about the intriguing life of the Stark family, visit the remarkable W.H. Stark House (610 W. Main St., 409/883-0871, www.starkculturalvenues.org, Tues.-Sat. 10am-3pm, $6 adults, $5 seniors and children ages 10-17). The magnificent 1894 Queen Anne mansion contains 15 rooms of opulent furnishings, artwork, carpet, and silver and porcelain settings. The family’s financial success afforded them the rare luxury (in this part of Texas) of purchasing expensive housewares and artwork, including fancy cut glass, imported bronzes, and Asian antiques. The Stark House is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is designated a Recorded Texas Historic Landmark by the Texas Historical Commission.
Like the other apexes of the Golden Triangle, Orange is known for its top-notch Cajun food. Though the options here are slightly more limited, they’re still quality locales. One of the most popular in town is Old Orange Cafe (914 W. Division Ave., 409/883-2233, Mon.-Fri. 11am-2pm, Sun. 10am-2pm, $9-20). Located in an old dairy building, the café offers an eclectic mix of Mexican, Southern, and seafood items, providing a welcome mix of tantalizing flavors, from the superb shrimp and grits to the spicy chimichanga to the hearty burger.
If you’re more in the mood for turf than surf, belly up to the consistently reliable J.B.’s BBQ Restaurant (5750 Old Hwy. 90, 409/886-9823, Tues.-Sat. 11am-7pm, $9-19). J.B.’s doesn’t offer table service (customers place and pick up their orders at the counter), and that’s good news—it means less time to wait on the fabulous food. You can’t go wrong with any of the classics here. Ribs, brisket, sausage, and chicken are all perfectly smoked and smothered in a sweet and spicy sauce.
Another popular local hangout is Spanky’s Restaurant (1703 N. 16th St., 409/886-2949, www.spankysgrill.com, daily 10:30am-2am, $7-19). You’ll find everything you’d ever want or need here, including steaks, seafood, burgers, and sandwiches. Noteworthy menu items include the mega one-pound “Flookburger” and the deep-fried peppers stuffed with crabmeat and cheese.
The Piney Woods are the natural heart of East Texas. Comprised of several national forests and not much else, most of this vast area remains as it has for centuries, when Native American tribes and pioneers hunted wild game in the dense woods by day and slept under the canopy of pine boughs by night.
The moniker “Piney Woods,” a Texas colloquialism, is an endearing term describing this forested region, an image many visitors don’t associate with the stereotypical desert landscape of the Lone Star State. Regardless, these aren’t dense, lush groves of evergreens—they’re mainly shortleaf and loblolly pines, sprinkled liberally with hardwoods such as oak, elm, ash, and maple. The combination is especially appealing in autumn, when, in another unexpected Texas scene, occasional bursts of changing colors offer a pleasant outdoor escape.
Nearly 750,000 acres of East Texas pine forests remain standing as a result of the involvement of the federal government. The trees were mostly clear-cut during the zealous timber harvesting of the early 1900s, but the U.S. Forest Service eventually became involved as an “administrator” of the vast woodlands, allowing them to be responsibly maintained through professional oversight of harvesting and replenishing. Several of the forests, Angelina in particular, feature logging-related trails and historical exhibits. A highlight is the abandoned and ghostly Aldridge Sawmill in Angelina National Forest.
The four national forests of East Texas are ideal destinations for a natural weekend getaway. Campers will want to pack more than hiking boots and mountain bikes—these woods are filled with rivers and lakes ideal for canoeing and fishing, drawing tens of thousands of recreation-seekers to their natural playscapes. Texans accustomed to their state’s hot summers and unpredictable winters will frequent the forests throughout the year, while out-of-staters prefer to enjoy them during the temperate months of spring and late fall.
These wooded areas provided shelter and sustenance for the region’s earliest inhabitants, the Native American tribes that were largely displaced by westward frontier expansion. The legacy of the Caddo Indians is evident in the rich history of Piney Woods communities like Nacogdoches, and the Alabama-Coushatta tribe remains a vital cultural presence on its reservation in the Big Thicket National Preserve.
The Big Thicket National Preserve’s name is somewhat misleading. Sure, there are areas of dense forest seemingly impenetrable by man or beast. But for the most part, this National Park Service property is merely woodsy, with pines, oaks, and swamplands dominating the landscape. It’s what occupies this flora that makes the Big Thicket a national treasure.
Species from the Gulf Coast, Central Plains, and Southeastern forests coexist with critters from the deserts, bayous, woods, and swamps. Birds from all regions of the country that should never be sharing air space pass through the area on migratory routes. There are 85 tree species, nearly 186 kinds of birds, and 50 reptile species, including a small, rarely seen population of alligators. In short, the tremendous variety of habitats coupled with the thicket’s geographic location results in a unique destination for nature lovers and wildlife enthusiasts.
A good place to start is the Big Thicket visitors center (6102 FM 420, 409/951-6725, daily 9am-5pm), seven miles north of Kountze at the intersection of U.S. Highway 69 and FM 420. The center provides brochures and maps, and includes a discovery room with interactive and educational exhibits related to the history and scope of the Big Thicket. Speaking of scope: It can take awhile to get a full grasp of the Big Thicket’s layout, since it consists of nine separate “land units” (basically separate park areas) over an expanse of East Texas. To get your bearings, be sure to view the visitors center’s 30-minute orientation film and talk to an NPS nature guide about taking a short excursion to several of the ecosystems found in the preserve.
Lake Tombigbee is in one of only three Indian reservations in Texas, the Alabama-Coushatta reservation (936/563-1100, www.alabama-coushatta.com). In previous decades, the tribe was much more active with its tourist activities, offering a museum, guided hikes, and cultural events. Although these resources are no longer available, visitors are encouraged to spend time at the reservation’s Lake Tombigbee Campground (936/563-1221 or 800/926-9038).
Lake Tombigbee offers cabins, tent sites, primitive camping sites, full-capacity RV stations, restrooms with bathhouses, swimming areas, and hiking and nature trails. Fishing is also popular on the lake, though visitors are encouraged to bring their own equipment since rental operations are scarce in the area.
Those planning to stick around the Big Thicket for a while can take advantage of many recreational opportunities, including hiking, with eight trails offering more than 45 miles of mild terrain through the muggy forest. The ideal time to plan a hike in Big Thicket is in the late fall/early winter or spring, since the summer is brutally hot. The trails truly offer something for everyone, ranging from wheelchair-accessible half-mile loops to an 18-mile cross-forest trek. Of the eight trails, the following offer the best slices of Big Thicket life:
• Beaver Slide Trail: In the southeast corner of the preserve’s Big Sandy Creek Unit, this 1.5-mile trail encircles several ponds formed by old beaver dams. The towering shaggy-barked cypress trees are another main attraction.
• Kirby Nature Trail System: This group of trails offers a lot of flexibility with distance and environments. A printed guide at the trailhead is a handy item to have in your back pocket, providing basic maps and information about the ecosystems and trails, ranging from a half-mile loop through a cypress slough to a 2.4-mile hike traversing the southern edge of the Turkey Creek Unit.
• Pitcher Plant Trail: For a distinctive trek through diverse ecosystems, take this one-mile trail through a mixed pine forest to a wetland savanna to a mixed hardwood-pine forest. Be sure to keep an eye out for the sundews and pitcher plants as you stroll along the wooden boardwalk.
• Turkey Creek Trail: To get a comprehensive feel for the preserve’s Turkey Creek Unit and its namesake creek, consider hiking this lengthy trail (15 miles long). Environmental highlights include baygalls, floodplains, sandhill pine uplands, and mixed forests.
Due to the Big Thicket’s remote location, cyclists should bring their own bikes to the preserve (instead of hoping for a nearby rental location). It’s well worth making the effort, however, since a bike will allow you to experience even more of the park’s incredible amount of biodiversity than a mere biped on a hike.
The biggest complaint most cyclists have about the park is its limited access. Bikes are only allowed on the Big Sandy Creek Horse/Bike Trail in the southern portion of the Big Sandy Creek Unit. Fortunately, it’s the Big Thicket’s longest trail, offering 18 miles of beautiful natural scenery. Highlights include a diverse hardwood forest of sweetgum, basket oak, and hornbeam; dense and fragrant upland pine forests; and a mixed area with loblolly pines and beech-magnolia trees. Be sure to check ahead about trail access (it’s occasionally closed during hunting season), and keep an eye and ear out for horses.
One of the most popular activities at Big Thicket is bird-watching, and several popular trails, including the Big Thicket Loop and Sundew Trail, offer ideal opportunities for serious and amateur birders, with nearly 185 species in the park either year-round or along one of the two major migratory flyways. Bird migrations peak between March and May, and some of the most sought-after species in the park include the red cockaded woodpecker and the Bachman’s sparrow. In the spring, bird and wildflower enthusiasts flock to the Sundew Trail in the park’s Hickory Creek Savannah Unit to catch sight of a rare brown-headed nuthatch or an eye-catching pitcher plant.
The Big Thicket has traditionally been known for its hiking and fishing, but it’s gaining a reputation for its quality paddling opportunities. Canoeists and kayakers are especially fond of the Village Creek area, where they can spend an afternoon or entire day exploring the lush waterway and camping opportunities. Another popular area is the Lower Neches River Corridor, a larger body of water with East Texas-style bayous and swamps leading all the way south to the Gulf of Mexico. Equipment rentals and shuttles are also available—check with the visitors center for a list of currently operating companies.
The Big Thicket is more of a hard-core campers’ destination than a traditional park. There are no developed sites with water and electricity; rather, campers are required to procure a permit for a primitive site. For some, this is an ideal situation, since it offers a true natural getaway without the distractions of a classic campground.
Campers must have a valid Backcountry Use Permit, available for free at the visitors center or headquarters office. Naturalist activities are available with reservations, or on selected weekends. Call 409/951-6725 or visit www.nps.gov/bith to learn about the park and its activities or to find out more about making reservations.
Since the Big Thicket is divided among nine separate park units across a large geographic area, there isn’t one specific town where most visitors go for food or lodging. Typically, restaurants, hotels, or campgrounds are selected based on proximity to a traveler’s recreational activity. The preserve’s sections range 80 miles west-to-east from Livingston to Kirbyville (with dozens of small communities in between) and 70 miles north-to-south from Jasper to Beaumont. Nearby communities with more than just a hotel or two to choose from include Woodville and Kountze.
Beaumont is less than an hour from most of the Big Thicket’s nine park areas, so you might consider budgeting some time to drive to this comparatively big city for a tasty and reliable Cajun meal or a clean and new(er) hotel.
The best place to find out everything you need to know about the Big Thicket (trail maps, boating conditions, nearby restaurants, etc.) is the visitors center (409/951-6725, www.nps.gov/bith, daily 9am-5pm). It’s seven miles north of Kountze at the intersection of U.S. Highway 69 and FM 420.
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For those interested in visiting the Alabama-Coushatta reservation for fishing or camping, call 936/563-1221 or 800/926-9038. For information about the tribe, call 936/563-1100 or visit www.alabama-coushatta.com.
Approximately 40 miles north of Texas’s largest city, Sam Houston National Forest contains 162,984 acres of shortleaf and longleaf pine, hardwood forests, and abundant recreational opportunities appealing to visitors, big-city dwellers, and small-town folk. Camping is the main draw here, complemented by daytime activities on Double Lake and Lake Conroe and the 140-mile-long Lone Star Hiking Trail.
The Lone Star Hiking Trail contains approximately 140 miles of walkways open to foot travel only. The trail traverses the entire Sam Houston National Forest through woodlands, swamps, and meadows via five loops to accommodate various starting points and parking for day hikers or overnight backpackers. Trail maps and brochures are available at the park headquarters in New Waverly.
Cyclists will enjoy the eight-mile trail on the east side of the forest custom built by mountain bikers. Though most of the East Texas forests are devoid of significant slopes, this hilly trek offers terrain-filled passages winding through the pine forests.
The 22,000-acre Lake Conroe is one of the biggest draws to Sam Houston Forest, particularly for its swimming, boating, fishing, and sailing. The lake is stocked with bass and bluegill, and boats are available for rent at various marinas along the lakeshore.
When in East Texas, it’s best to stick with the foods the locals know best: Southern. Although it may be tempting to snack on a taco or find a fine Italian meal, try to save those cravings for the cities.
When it comes to burgers, one of the most popular spots in the Sam Houston Forest area is on the northeastern edge of the property line in the small town of Coldspring: The Hop (14801 State Hwy. 150 W, 936/653-4889, $9-16). This down-home, charmingly cluttered local establishment is a classic 1950s-style burger joint, so you can’t go wrong with a big ol’ burger, fries, and chocolate milkshake. Pop a few dollars in the corner jukebox to complete your classic Americana experience.
Just up the road from Coldspring in the slightly larger town of Livingston is Courthouse Whistlestop Cafe (318 N. Washington Ave., 936/327-3222 www.courthousewhistlestop.com, daily 6am-2pm, $7-15). Across from the stately Polk County Courthouse in the historic downtown district, the Whistlestop is an ideal place to grab a hearty breakfast before venturing out on a hiking trail or paddling trip. Start with a strong mug of coffee and pair with a meaty omelet or stack of buttermilk pancakes. If you’re looking for lunch, opt for a big ol’ deli sandwich (the Reuben is a local favorite) or bowl of chili.
Sam Houston National Forest contains three developed campgrounds (Cagle, Double Lake, and Stubblefield Recreation Areas). Cagle Recreation Area is a campground with 48 camping units offering electric, water, and sewer connections; hot showers; lakeshore hiking, biking, and equestrian trails; fishing; and swimming. Double Lake Recreation Area, constructed in 1937 by the Civilian Conservation Corps, surrounds a 24-acre lake and includes family camping units (a tent pad, parking area, picnic table; some with water, sewer, and electrical hookups), swimming area and beach, and a concession stand with bathhouse. Stubblefield Recreation Area has 28 camping units, hot showers, and access to fishing and hiking. Double Lake facilities are available by reservation, while Cagle and Stubblefield are available on a first-come, first-served basis only. Call ahead for availability and fee information.
For more information about recreational opportunities at the forest, including all-important maps, contact the Sam Houston National Forest headquarters (394 FM 1375, 936/344-6205 or 888/361-6908, www.fs.fed.us/r8/texas, Mon.-Fri. 8am-4:30pm), two miles west of I-45 and New Waverly. For campground reservation information, call 877/444-6777 or go to www.recreation.gov.
Since the national forests are in rural areas of East Texas, the only way to access them is by car. Assuming many visitors are traveling to the Sam Houston Forest from Houston, take I-45 north out of town for about 40 miles, all the way to the small town of New Waverly. The forest’s visitors center is just a couple miles west of the interstate at New Waverly. Drivers can also take U.S. Highway 59 northeast out of Houston. When you reach Cleveland or Shepherd, look for signs directing you to county roads heading westward into the forest.
For hiking enthusiasts, the Davy Crockett National Forest is a welcome wild frontier. With more than 160,000 acres of scenic woodlands just west of Lufkin, the Davy Crockett Forest has some of the region’s best opportunities for hiking and horseback riding.
The most popular hiking trail in the forest is the Four C National Recreation Trail, named after the Central Coal and Coke Company that logged the forest’s stately trees from 1902 to 1920. The 20-mile trail traverses moderate terrain amid lofty pines, swampy bogs, and hardwood forests. Horses and hikers share the woodsy, mossy, and boggy 50-mile Piney Creek Horse Trail.
Visitors are also drawn to the Ratcliff Lake Recreation Area, built in 1936 by the Civilian Conservation Corps around a 45-acre lake that was once a log pond and source of water for the Central Coal and Coke Company Sawmill. The area offers camping, a swimming beach and bathhouse, interpretive trail, showers, boating, and fishing.
While hiking, be on the lookout for the forest’s abundant wildlife, including deer, turkey, dove, quail, and various waterfowl. The endangered red-cockaded woodpecker also lives in a managed habitat within the forest.
Since Lufkin is so close to the forest’s boundaries (a mere 10 miles to the east), it’s worth heading to the “big” city for the quality restaurant options (especially compared to the small towns peppered around the forest’s perimeter).
If you only eat one meal in Lufkin, make it Lufkin Bar B Q (203 S. Chestnut St., 936/634-4744, www.lufkinbbq.com, Mon.-Sat. 10am-9pm, $9-18). Consider yourself forewarned: The lightly fried rolls served before the meal are so astoundingly tasty, you’ll be tempted to make a meal out of their doughnut-y deliciousness. If possible, maintain some self-control (limiting yourself to three or four rolls) and save space for the main event: succulent barbecue. The brisket and spicy sausage are the way to go, or try a chipped beef sandwich if you’re not in the mood for quantity. The sides aren’t too memorable, so . . . go ahead and have another roll!
For good ol’ fashioned Southern comfort food, it doesn’t get much better than Mom’s Diner (900 W. Frank Ave., 936/637-6410, Mon.-Fri. 11am-7pm, $6-14). As its name implies, this semi-rustic spot specializes in comfort food, including one of the best chicken-fried steaks in the area, as well as juicy burgers, fried chicken, and outstanding peppered cream gravy. Take note: Mom doesn’t accept credit cards, just cash.
For old-time greasy and tasty burgers, head to Ray’s Drive In Cafe (420 N. Timberland Dr., 936/634-3262, Mon.-Sat. 10am-10pm, $6-10). Locals love the classic 1950s feel and fare of this original drive-in restaurant, including the mouthwatering bacon cheeseburger with onion rings, mushroom burger, chili dog, and chocolate milk shake. The surrounding sound of classic oldies music completes this nostalgic scene.
Some of the forest’s most scenic camping sites are along the Four C Trail at the Walnut Creek campsite (five tent pads, a shelter, and pit toilet) and at another small campsite, farther north on the trail, with two tent pads. Another option is the Ratcliff Lake Recreation Area. Campers comfortable with primitive sites should head to the nearby Neches Bluff Overlook at the north end of the trail, where they can enjoy a panoramic view of pine-hardwood forests in the Neches River bottomlands. Call ahead for availability and fee information.
To obtain a trail map of the forest or to learn more about camping and boat accessibility, contact the Davy Crockett National Forest headquarters near Kennard (Rte. 1, Box 55 FS, 936/655-2299, www.fs.fed.us/r8/texas). The ranger district office is near Ratcliff on Highway 7, about a quarter mile west of FM 227.
Again, assuming you’ll be arriving by car from Houston, take I-45 north to Highway 19 in the town of Crockett. Take a right onto Highway 7 for a few miles, where you’ll find the main visitors center in Ratcliff. You can also take U.S. Highway 59 northeast out of Houston. When you reach Lufkin, take a left onto Highway 103, which turns into Highway 7 and leads to the visitors center.
Just east of Lufkin, the 153,179-acre Angelina National Forest is one of the most popular East Texas forests for fishing and boating excursions. Angelina completely encapsulates most of the massive Lake Sam Rayburn, an 114,500-acre lake on the Angelina River formed when the Sam Rayburn Dam was constructed in the early 1960s.
The forest itself is like most of its East Texas brethren, with gently rolling landscapes covered mostly with shortleaf and loblolly pine, hardwoods, and a swath of longleaf pine in the southern portion. When it was acquired by the federal government in 1935, Angelina was in pretty bad shape—most of the property had been forested and left without adequate protection. The Texas Forest Service’s fire prevention efforts resulted in much of the land “seeding in” naturally, a practice that continues to this day.
Though Angelina is focused primarily on water-based activities, the most memorable experience in the forest is a surreal (and spooky) abandoned sawmill. All that’s left of the old Aldridge Sawmill are huge concrete structures serving as reminders of the region’s timber-industry heritage.
Nearly 100 years ago, thousands of people thrived in a busy logging community called Aldridge—bustling with hundreds of homes and several saloons, hotels, and churches—before abandoning the site practically overnight. Aldridge workers logged East Texas’s largest longleaf pines, some more than 30 inches in diameter. When the tree supply was depleted by 1920, the residents and their families packed up and moved on to the next swath of dense woodland, leaving behind several large-scale mill facilities.
The enormous and stark concrete walls of these buildings are all that remain, offering an eerie juxtaposition to the surrounding natural beauty of the enchanting second-growth forest that emerged in its place. Similarly intriguing are the remnants from local teenagers—graffiti, beer bottles, and flip-flops—who frequent the ghost town to do what they do best (a Forest Service guide simply noted, “A lot of innocence has been lost here.”).
Though forest officials discourage publicizing Aldridge’s location to deter even more teenagers from discovering and destroying it, legitimate visitors can get a map and directions (look for the Sawmill Hiking Trail) from the visitors center.
Lake Sam Rayburn is a popular destination for anglers, who return regularly for the lake’s abundant largemouth bass, crappie, and catfish. Recreational boating is also a major activity, with water-skiers, sailboats, and personal watercraft dotting the water’s surface.
Even if you don’t have a boat, it’s worth driving across Lake Sam Rayburn on the lengthy Highway 147 bridge. On the east side of the bridge, there’s an access road to Jackson Hill Park, where you can explore the lakeside and catch a picturesque sunset.
The Angelina Forest is also a popular place for visitors to view the hundreds of wildlife species, including deer, wild turkey, woodcock, quail, and the year-round resident population of wood ducks. During the winter, bald eagles occupy the area surrounding the reservoir, and the forest is also home to the endangered red-cockaded woodpecker, a small black-and-white bird that visitors often make (largely unsuccessful) quests to locate.
Much like the Davy Crockett Forest, nearby eating options are minimal. To get a decent meal, make the 15-mile drive to Lufkin for quality regional cuisine. However, if you’re in the Zavalla area and are willing to keep your expectations fairly low, there’s Carlene’s Place (594 E. Main St., 936/897-2900, daily 5am-9:30pm, $7-12). Carlene’s “features” a buffet (mostly fried food and a salad bar) along with standard American fare like burgers, chicken-fried steaks, and sandwiches.
The park’s two main recreation areas, Caney Creek and Sandy Creek, offer camping, boating, and fishing on or near the shores of Lake Sam Rayburn. Camping and fishing are also popular at Bouton Lake Recreation Area and Boykin Springs Recreation Area, including historic structures built by the Civilian Conservation Corps and offering camping, swimming, fishing, and canoeing. Call ahead for campsite availability and fee information.
Another option worth considering is a cabin rental. A local real estate company offers a lone 1940s-era historic log cabin (936/240-1700, www.vrbo.com, $80 nightly for two people) near the south shore of Lake Sam Rayburn. Surprisingly available at many times of the year, the rustic two-bedroom home is sparse yet perfectly suited for a low-key weekend getaway. Nestled in a pine grove, the cabin offers modern conveniences (central air/heat, a full kitchen and bathroom, satellite TV, even Wi-Fi) with the charms of a woodsy home (large front porch, bunk beds, comfy furniture, and a charcoal grill).
To learn more about the campsite availability and fees, lake access points, and trail maps, contact the Angelina National Forest park office (111 Walnut Ridge Rd., Zavalla, 936/897-1068, www.fs.fed.us/r8/texas, Mon.-Fri. 8am-4:30pm).
Take U.S. Highway 59 northeast out of Houston. When you get to Lufkin, take a right onto Highway 103. To reach the visitors center, head southeast from Lufkin on U.S. Highway 69 to Zavalla.
The 160,656-acre Sabine National Forest is the easternmost of Texas’s four national forests and dominated by the massive Toledo Bend Reservoir along the Louisiana border.
Considered the second-largest lake in Texas and the fifth-largest artificial reservoir in the United States, Toledo Bend offers extensive recreational opportunities, from boating and fishing to swimming and lakeshore camping.
Outdoor recreation opportunities in the Sabine National Forest include fishing, hunting, camping, hiking, horseback riding, and mountain biking. One of the most popular destinations in the forest is the 12,369-acre Indian Mounds Wilderness Area, designated by the U.S. Congress as a site “to allow the Earth’s natural processes to shape and influence the area.” Unfortunately, it was misnamed since the mounds are actually just normal hills; fortunately, these natural formations shelter beautiful flora, including American beech, southern magnolia, yellow lady’s slipper orchids, and broad beech ferns.
Hikers should hoof it to the 28-mile Trail Between the Lakes, extending from the Toledo Bend Reservoir’s Lakeview Recreation Area to U.S. Highway 96 near Lake Sam Rayburn. Contact park headquarters for a map showing the many miles of roads throughout the forest that are open to mountain bikers and horseback riders.
Fishing is another recreational activity that draws people to Sabine National Forest. The reservoir is ideal for catching striped bass, and the forest’s rivers and creeks teem with crappie, bass, and bluegill.
Birding is also popular with forest visitors, who flock to the area during the spring and fall to catch a glimpse of migratory waterfowl and other species of neotropical migratory birds such as songbirds, hawks, and shorebirds. As in the other East Texas forests, the red-cockaded woodpecker, an endangered species, receives special habitat management.
Since the forest runs along the state line with Louisiana, this is a good opportunity to make a run for the border to experience an authentic meal in another state. One of the best options is about 15 miles east of the state line in Leesville, Louisiana, at a homey spot called Mustard Seed (1152 Entrance Rd., 337/537-1933, Mon.-Sat. 11am-8pm, $9-19). Go for the local specialties here, specifically the crispy and tender fried catfish and savory gumbo (chicken or sausage). Be sure to order or share some side dishes, too, since you don’t always get a chance to eat Louisiana-style collard greens or brown gravy.
If you’d prefer to stay in the Lone Star State, stick with the food that Texans do best: barbecue. One of the only recommendable options near the Sabine Forest is Hemphill BBQ (3285 S. Bayou Rd., 409/787-1814, Mon.-Sat. 11am-8pm, $9-19) in the small town of Hemphill. Since this is East Texas, the specialties tend to shift away from beef and toward pork, so order the baby back ribs or a pulled pork sandwich. The sides tend to be sweeter in this part of the state, too, which works well for Hemphill’s coleslaw and potato salad. Locals come here for the homemade desserts alone, so try to save room for a pie or pastry.
To get a true sense of the rural forest camping experience, get a spot at Indian Mounds Wilderness Area. Less primitive is the Ragtown Recreation Area, offering opportunities for hiking, fishing, and bird-watching atop a bluff that faces the lake. Camping with electrical hookups is available only at Red Hills Lake and Boles Field. Call ahead for availability and fee information.
For a comprehensive list of Toledo Bend Reservoir-related services—fishing guides to private resorts to boat launch sites—visit www.toledo-bend.com. To learn more about Sabine Forest’s campsite availability and fees, lake access points, and trail maps, contact the Sabine National Forest headquarters (201 S. Palm in Hemphill, 409/787-3870). To learn more about the park’s recreational opportunities and seasonal news, visit www.fs.fed.us/r8/texas.
Take U.S. Highway 59 northeast out of Houston. When you reach Lufkin, take a right onto Highway 103. To reach the park’s visitors center, head south on Highway 87 in Milam for three miles.
Lufkin (population 36,333) is worth visiting for its unique role as a major logging town in Texas’s history. Founded in 1882 as a stop on the Houston, East and West Texas Railway, the town was named for Abraham P. Lufkin, a Galveston cotton merchant and close friend of the railroad company president.
The construction of railroad lines in the early 1880s allowed access to the forests’ interiors, and the lumber industry and regional economy began to flourish. In fact, between 1890 and 1900, the forest industry contributed more to Texas’s economy than any other industry, including the traditional stronghold markets of cattle and cotton.
As a result, lumber “company towns” flourished in the Lufkin area. The corporations provided jobs for men and prioritized family life by building and advocating schools, churches, and medical facilities. Often, the workers were paid in coupons and credits redeemable for merchandise and services in the company town facilities. Although some sawmill workers were later drawn to the oil fields for higher wages, many men chose to stay with their families in the lumber company towns since they were good places to raise a family in a community environment.
The lumber industry continues to play a significant role in Lufkin’s economy. Each year, the region produces more than a million board feet of saw timber as well as a significant manufacturing of pulpwood from the nearby pine and hardwood forests.
Visitors, especially antiques shoppers and history buffs, are drawn to downtown Lufkin’s quaint mix of restaurants and retail shops. A walking tour showcases several remarkable historic buildings, including the 1925 Pines Theater and the location of the first Brookshire Brothers grocery store. Along the way, look for the five colorful murals by artist Lance Hunter depicting historic businesses and stories from the area.
An essential stop in Lufkin is the Texas Forestry Museum (1905 Atkinson Dr., 936/632-9535, www.treetexas.com, Mon.-Sat. 10am-5pm, free). The museum offers a look at historic and contemporary growth of the region’s lumber industry in two main areas—the forest history wing and resource/management wing.
Highlights include a compelling exhibit about life in a lumber company town, complete with model buildings and a large collection of artifacts from early logging camps. Historic equipment, a fire lookout tower cab, paper mill room, and an educational exhibit detailing the natural succession of a forest are other noteworthy attractions at the Texas Forestry Museum. A children’s area is well intentioned and fairly educational, though the early 1990s signage and videos are becoming dangerously dated. Visitors can learn more about the region’s natural resources on the scenic Urban Wildscape Trail behind the main building.
Despite its all-encompassing name, the Museum of East Texas (503 N. 2nd St., 936/639-4434, www.metlufkin.org, Tues.-Fri. 10am-5pm, Sat.-Sun. 1pm-5pm, free) isn’t as grand as it sounds. Built in 1976, the museum primarily features exhibits showcasing the talents of regional artists. Though there are occasional traveling shows and science or children’s exhibits, the museum devotes much of its attention to the work of locals, which is certainly commendable yet somewhat limited in scope. The museum also hosts occasional lectures, performances, classes, kids’ art camps, and publications dedicated to the character and heritage of East Texas.
File this one under expectations exceeded. Far larger than it has to be is the impressive Ellen Trout Zoo (402 Zoo Circle, 936/633-0399, www.cityoflufkin.com/zoo, daily 9am-5pm, $7 adults, $3.50 children ages 4-11).
Home to more than 700 animals from all over the planet, the zoo contains a surprising variety of jungle beasts, tropical birds, and swamp creatures in a well-organized and spacious setting. Be sure to set aside three or four hours to get a full appreciation for the animals you typically see in big-city zoos, including monkeys, a giraffe, rhinos, and hippos. Also keep an eye out for alligators, seals, and birds around every corner.
Another highlight for families is the miniature train, which circles the zoo, then makes an unexpected detour across Ellen Trout Lake (look for the elusive gators) followed by a small loop through the nearby forest.
Just 11 miles outside Lufkin in the small town of Diboll is a fascinating attraction known simply as The History Center (102 N. Temple St., 936/829-3543, www.thehistorycenteronline.com, Mon.-Fri. 8am-5pm, Sat. 9am-1pm, free). Appropriately situated in Diboll, the oldest continually operated forest company site in Texas, the 12,000-square-foot History Center is technically a public archives facility dedicated to East Texas history. But that makes it sound rather boring, which it’s not.
a historic steam train at The History Center
The vaguely named History Center did not get a specified moniker because organizers did not want it to be classified as simply a museum or a library. Although it contains many reference materials, it’s more than a research center. Likewise, it features artifacts, but it is not really a museum. It’s best described as a public history and archive center that collects, preserves, and explores the heritage of East Texas.
Visitors are immediately drawn to the facility by its exquisite woodwork, consisting of cypress walls preserved from the 1950s along with floors of locally harvested yellow pine. Exhibit panels feature remarkable century-old photos showcasing Diboll’s dynamic past as a lumber company town, and an impressive collection of archives, including 70,000 photos, decades’ worth of community newspapers, and lumber company log books. For children (and sometimes even their parents), the History Center’s highlight is parked behind the building: an authentic 1920 Baldwin 68-ton steam locomotive, which visitors can explore by climbing in, on, and around. The best part? Experiencing the immense satisfaction of pulling on a rope and hearing the authentic throaty sound of the engine’s steam whistle.
Due to its proximity to four national forests, Lufkin is surrounded by recreational activities, from boating and hiking to camping and biking. However, if you’re in town for a limited stay and looking for somewhere to jog or walk your dog, the city manages 16 municipal parks through Lufkin Parks and Recreation (936/633-0250, www.lufkinparks.com). Check the website for information on hours of operation and accessibility to resources such as swimming pools, jogging trails, playscapes, and picnic areas.
If you’re a barbecue fan, head directly to the unassuming, 1950s-era strip mall housing Lufkin Bar B Q (203 S. Chestnut St., 936/634-4744, www.lufkinbbq.com, Mon.-Sat. 10am-9pm, $9-18). Before you get to the meat, consider yourself forewarned: The lightly fried rolls served before the meal are so astoundingly tasty, you’ll be tempted to make a meal out of their doughnut-y deliciousness. If possible, maintain some self-control (limiting yourself to three or four rolls) and save space for the main event: succulent barbecue. The hearty and perfectly smoked brisket and spicy sausage are the way to go, or try a chipped beef sandwich if you’re not in the mood for quantity. The sides aren’t too memorable, so . . . go ahead and have another roll!
Like most small towns in Texas and across the United States, Lufkin has many generic chains and a few admirable local eateries. As its name implies, Mar Teres Tea Room (3157 Ted Trout Dr., 936/875-6200, Tues.-Fri. 11am-2pm, $9-21, reservations suggested) is a classic luncheon spot filled with antiques and a fair share of pink decor. However, this tightly packed home is known throughout town as the ultimate destination for quality cuisine in Lufkin. Husbands and boyfriends take note: It’s worth spending an hour outside your comfort zone to experience the powerful flavors packed into the food at Mar Teres. The almond tea is the talk of the town, and entrées like chicken spaghetti, chicken salad, and French onion soup are outstanding. Not surprisingly, the desserts here are top-notch, especially the lemon cake, coconut pie, and old-fashioned chocolate cake.
For something a little more down-home and low-key, head to Mom’s Diner (900 W. Frank Ave., 936/637-6410, Mon.-Fri. 11am-7pm, $6-14). As its name implies, this semi-rustic spot specializes in comfort food, including one of the best chicken-fried steaks in the area, as well as juicy burgers, fried chicken, and outstanding peppered cream gravy. Take note: Mom doesn’t accept credit cards, just cash.
For old-time greasy and tasty burgers, head to Ray’s Drive In Cafe (420 N. Timberland Dr., 936/634-3262, Mon.-Sat. 10am-10pm, $6-10). Locals love the classic 1950s feel and fare of this original drive-in restaurant, including the mouthwatering bacon cheeseburger with onion rings, mushroom burger, chili dog, and chocolate milk shake. The surrounding sound of classic oldies music completes this nostalgic scene.
Lufkin is known more for its barbecue than Mexican food, but there are a couple places in town that draw sizable lunch crowds. One worth visiting is the consistently reliable Cafe Del Rio (1901 S. 1st St., 936/639-4471, daily 11am-9:30 pm, $8-17). From the crispy chips and spicy salsa to the loaded nachos and sizzling fajitas, Cafe Del Rio doesn’t disappoint. Also recommended is Casa Ole (2109 S. 1st St., 936/632-2653, daily 11am-10pm, $7-15), offering tasty tacos and hearty enchiladas.
Lufkin’s lodging options are somewhat limited, but there are several chains offering reliable accommodations and amenities. Those looking for an affordable rate in a commendable hotel should consider La Quinta (2119 S. 1st St., 936/634-3351, www.lq.com, $79 d). Features include an outdoor pool, free continental breakfast, and free Internet access. A step up on the price and quality ladder is Best Western Crown Colony Inn & Suites (3211 S. 1st St., 936/634-3481, www.bestwesterntexas.com, $113 d), offering spacious rooms with microwaves and refrigerators, free Internet access, a deluxe continental breakfast, an outdoor pool, and a fitness room. Similar in price and scope is Hampton Inn & Suites (4400 S. 1st St., 936/699-2500, www.hamptoninn.com, $113 d), featuring a free hot breakfast, to-go breakfast bags (on weekdays), and free Internet access.
To get the scoop on additional lodging and dining options or to pick up a handy map or brochure, stop by the Lufkin Convention & Visitors Bureau (1615 S. Chestnut St., 936/633-0349 or 800/409-5659, www.visitlufkin.com, Mon.-Fri. 8:30am-5pm).
Nacogdoches (population 33,894) claims to be Texas’s oldest town, and though some historians debate this, there’s no denying the wealth and breadth of its East Texas heritage and culture.
Named for the Caddo tribe (the Nacogdoche) that lived in the area, Nacogdoches was an active Native American settlement until 1716 when Spain established a mission at the site. In 1779, Nacogdoches received official designation from Spain as a pueblo (village), prompting locals to deem it Texas’s first official “town.”
Soon after, Nacogdoches became a hotbed of trading activity, much of it illicit, primarily among the French and Americans, with much of the action centered around the Old Stone Fort. The frequent activity coupled with the town’s prime location on several major trade routes made Nacogdoches prominent in early military and political arenas.
By the mid-1800s, Nacogdoches lost its distinction in these areas due to its lack of modern transportation facilities such as steamboats and railroads. Growth remained relatively stagnant until the 1920s, when the Stephen F. Austin State Teachers College (now Stephen F. Austin State University) opened its doors, bringing fresh faces, jobs, and cultural activities to town. With a current enrollment of nearly 12,000 students, the university remains the lifeblood of Nacogdoches.
The Old Stone Fort Museum (1936 North St., 936/468-2408, www.sfasu.edu/stonefort, Tues.-Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. 1pm-5pm, free) on the Stephen F. Austin State University campus is a 1936 replica of the home of Don Antonio Gil Y’Barbo, considered the founder of present-day Nacogdoches. The original facility, dating to the 1700s, was considered the oldest standing stone structure in Texas before it was torn down amid much protest in 1902. Now officially historic itself, this replica remains an important Nacogdoches landmark, featuring a permanent exhibit on the fascinating history of the building that served as a trading post, church, jail, private home, and saloon but never an official fort. The Old Stone Fort Museum also contains artifacts related to the early history of East Texas, with a special focus on the Spanish and Mexican periods (1690-1836).
One of the oldest homes in East Texas is the 1830 Sterne-Hoya House (211 S. Lanana St., 936/560-5426, www.ci.nacogdoches.tx.us/departments/shmuseum.php, Tues.-Sat. 10am-4pm, free admission and tours). Built by Adolphus Sterne, a prominent leader of the Texas Revolution, the modest yet stately home is still standing on its original site, a rare claim for many structures of this era, which were either moved or demolished. Prominent figures of the time, including Davy Crockett, Sam Houston, and Cherokee chief Bowles, visited the Sterne home in the mid-1800s. Tour guides explain the significance of the period antiques and the prominent families who occupied the home, which is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
the Sterne-Hoya House
Hwy. 84 W., 877/726-7245, www.texasstaterr.com, $32-65 adults, $20-40 children ages 2-12). The nearest depot is located in Rusk, approximately 30 miles northwest of Nacogdoches, where passengers get all aboard on a historic journey through the East Texas Piney Woods. Trains have rolled on these 25 miles of rustic yet sturdy tracks between Rusk and Palestine since 1881, when the state prison system began constructing the railway to transport iron ore and timber.
The 90-minute trek between the two towns is a thoroughly enjoyable and relaxing journey into the past, with gently rolling train cars clickety-clacking over bridges and through the dense green forest. Sit back and let time slowly slip by while the steam locomotive’s whistle bellows and the genial conductor checks your ticket. Before you know it, you’ll be at the Victorian-style depot at the end of the line, where you’ll find historical exhibits, gift shops, and food service.
Round-trip excursions depart each weekend year-round from both the Rusk and Palestine depots at 11am and return to their point of origin by 3:30pm. Yes, the tickets are pretty pricey, but the experience is one-of-a-kind. A 90-minute layover is scheduled at the opposite train depot, where a variety of lunch options are available. Snacks, beverages, and restrooms are available on the train.
Just south of Rusk near the small town of Alto is the compelling Caddo Mounds State Historic Site (1649 State Hwy. 21 W., 936/858-3218, www.visitcaddomounds.com, Tues.-Sun. 8:30am-4:30pm, $4 adults, $3 students). Caddo-speaking farmers built these ceremonial burial mounds more than 1,200 years ago, and historians now realize they are the southwesternmost structures of the legendary Mound Builders of the eastern North American woodlands. Three of these earthen mounds, used for burials, temples, and religious ceremonies, still rise from the East Texas forests. Visitors can walk among the gently sloping structures, explore the interpretive center’s exhibits and displays, and view a newly constructed Caddo grass house, created with the assistance of Caddo tribe members.
Looking for a quiet retreat to the surrounding woodlands? Then hoof it to the Stephen F. Austin Experimental Forest (eight miles southwest of Nacogdoches at 6598 FM 2782, 936/564-8924, www.srs.fs.usda.gov). Not quite as compelling at its name implies, the forest is dubbed “experimental” for its crazy variety of tree species planted in the 1940s. A century ago, the area was logged and abandoned for use as cotton fields, but the U.S. government’s purchase of more than 600,000 acres of East Texas property—eventually becoming the region’s national forests—allowed for the reforestation of hardwoods and pines that would eventually populate the area. The Experimental Forest contains three miles of trails with interpretive signs. Visitors and locals regularly traverse the wooded trails to catch a glimpse of the more than 150 species of birds and 80 kinds of butterflies throughout this peaceful site.
If you’re in town with a bike and are looking for a scenic and pleasant place to ride for an hour or so, head directly to the campus of Stephen F. Austin State University (1936 North St., 936/468-3200, www.sfasu.edu). Soak up the tree-lined streets and classic collegiate structures while keeping an eye out for thousands of meandering (while texting) students.
For those more adventurous souls in search of a lengthy ride with cyclists knowledgeable about the area, consider meeting up with members of the Nacogdoches Bicycle Club (www.bikenacogdoches.org). The group meets several times a month, almost always on Saturday mornings for a circa 30-mile ride on the rolling rural roadways outside of town. Membership is not required, and visitors are welcome to drop in. The group meets on Saturday mornings near the SFASU campus at Java Jack’s (1122 North St., 936/560-3975, www.javajacks.com).
If you’re in the downtown area at lunch, drop by the wonderful Shelley’s Bakery Cafe (112 N. Church St., 936/564-4100, www.shelleysbakerycafe.com, Tues.-Sat. 10am-3pm, $5-14). The salads are a big draw here, as are the hearty sandwiches. Billing itself as a European-style bistro, Shelley’s is one of those tucked-away little places that’s ideal for grabbing a midmorning coffee and pastry while perusing the local paper. Another popular lunch spot is the campus-area NacBurger (3205 N. University Dr., 936/564-3588, Mon.-Sat. 11am-7pm, $4-8). Students and professors line up at this shopping-center deli for tasty burgers and chicken sandwiches accompanied by bacon cheddar fries and a large iced tea. Locals also love the regional chain Clear Springs Cafe (211 Old Tyler Rd., 936/569-0489, www.clearspringsrestaurant.com, Mon.-Thurs. 11am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-10pm, $6-19). Seafood is the main draw here, including popular dishes such as the pan-seared tilapia, salmon or crawfish salad, and catfish étouffée.
If you’re craving ’cue, head straight for CC’s Smokehouse (2709 Westward Dr., 936/462-8880, Mon.-Sat. 11am-8:30pm, $8-16, cash only). This is classic East Texas-style barbecue done right: delicious brisket, savory sausage, and meaty pork ribs. Not quite as reliable but still worth considering is The Barbeque House (704 N. Stallings Dr., 936/569-9004, call for hours, $7-14). The brisket and chicken are popular here, and the sausage is a bit on the spicy side but definitely worth ordering.
Nacogdoches isn’t really known for its quality Mexican restaurants, but there are a couple options in town if you need a fajita fix. Tacos Dona Pancha (112 W. Seale St., 936/559-9995, call for hours, $6-11) offers authentic tacos in tasty tortillas—opt for the beef with cilantro and onions. Don’t be concerned by the surrounding iron gates and possibility that you’ll have to order by pointing at menu items. Another option is Restaurant El Ranchero (123 King St., 936/569-2256, daily 10:30am-9pm, $7-15), featuring some of the hottest and heartiest salsa in town, along with traditional favorites such as quesadillas, fajitas, and flautas. Call in advance to see if El Ranchero is offering its semi-regular “two free margaritas” special.
As in Lufkin, Nacogdoches’s lodging options are primarily chains, with most located near the Stephen F. Austin campus. The best budget choice is Best Western Inn of Nacogdoches (3428 South St., 936/560-4900, www.bestwestern.com, $69 d), offering rooms with free Internet access along with microwaves and refrigerators, a free continental breakfast, and an outdoor pool.
Moving into the slightly-more-expensive range is the clean and comfortable Hampton Inn & Suites (3625 South St., 936/560-9901, www.hamptoninn.com, $119 d), offering free Internet access, a complimentary hot breakfast buffet, an outdoor pool, and a fitness center. A popular option with business travelers is the nearby Holiday Inn Express Hotel & Suites (3807 South St., 936/564-0100, www.hiexpress.com, $120 d), with amenities such as free wireless Internet service, a fancy fitness center, and an outdoor pool.
While strolling historic downtown Nacogdoches, drop by the town’s two main tourism offices. The Nacogdoches Convention & Visitors Bureau (200 E. Main St., 888/653-3788, www.visitnacogdoches.org, Mon.-Fri. 9am-5pm, Sat. 10am-4pm, Sun. 1pm-4pm) has information about the city’s history and local sites of interest. Just around the corner is the office headquarters of the Texas Forest Trail Region (202 E. Pilar St., 936/560-3699, www.texasforesttrail.com, Mon.-Fri. 8:30am-5pm). Operated by the Texas Historical Commission, the Forest Trail Region oversees heritage travel destinations and cultural activities in Nacogdoches and the entire East Texas Piney Woods region. Drop by to pick up brochures and maps, and to talk to the friendly and knowledgeable staff.
Slow-moving Tyler will never be confused with fast-paced Austin, but this large town/small city (population 103,700) certainly has a distinctive feel: Southern. From stately plantations to hospitable residents to deep-fried cooking, Tyler has a strong cultural connection to the Deep South.
The city’s biggest draw is its roses. Once responsible for more than half the country’s rosebush supply, Tyler now provides 20 percent of the roses in the United States. The Tyler Municipal Rose Garden contains more than 35,000 rosebushes representing nearly 500 varieties. The gardens attract bees, butterflies, and more than 100,000 people annually from across the world. Many visitors come especially for the Texas Rose Festival, a tradition held each October since 1933, featuring events such as the queen’s coronation, the rose parade, the queen’s tea, and the rose show.
Tyler changed dramatically in 1930, when the discovery of the nearby East Texas oil field turned this small agricultural and railroad city into a major destination for workers and corporations. The town received an added boost in the 1940s when Camp Fannin was established nearby, including a troop capacity of 19,000 at the height of World War II.
In the following decades, Tyler’s economic base shifted from agriculture to industry. Most were petroleum related, but other manufacturing plants soon followed, including metal and fabricating companies, railroad and machine shops, furniture and woodwork manufacturers, aluminum foundries, and air-conditioning and refrigeration plants.
In the 1970s and ’80s, Tyler was best known as the hometown of football legend Earl Campbell, who earned the Heisman Trophy at the University of Texas and went on to become a Hall of Fame running back in the National Football League. Campbell’s nickname, “The Tyler Rose,” forever linked him with his hometown.
The region’s most popular tourist attraction is the Tyler Municipal Rose Garden and Museum (420 Rose Park Dr., 903/597-3130, www.parksandrec.cityoftyler.org, Mon.-Fri. 8am-5pm, Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. 1pm-5pm, free). The museum is well worth visiting, with numerous displays showcasing the elaborately jeweled, hand-sewn gowns worn by rose queens dating back to 1935. Be sure to check out the scrapbook pages from each rose queen, including memorabilia, personal recollections, and photos (including one with a queen and her freshly killed deer). Visitors can also view videos about the history of Tyler’s rose industry and rose festival, and experience an interactive “attic” exhibit with a bizarre collection of antiques and collectibles from Tyler’s past.
The municipal garden is the primary draw, however, with its sea of colorful roses—more than 35,000 bushes representing nearly 500 distinct varieties. Though the blooming period is May-November, early May is the peak of the flowers’ natural growing cycle. This is when the garden’s 14 acres burst with the bright sight and sweet scent of fresh roses.
Tyler’s heritage is on full display at Tyler’s three plantation museums, where the Old South comes to life through historic furniture, artifacts, and photos. This lifestyle, typically associated with the Deep South, wasn’t prevalent in most of Texas, so it’s worth dropping by one of these sites just to get a feel for the ornate homes and luxurious grounds. If you’re lucky, the docents and tour guides may even be dressed in period costume.
The Goodman Museum (624 N. Broadway Ave., 903/531-1286, www.cityoftyler.org, Tues.-Sat. 10am-4pm, free) was the home of Dr. W. J. Goodman, a local doctor and Civil War surgeon for 72 years (1866-1938). Originally built in 1859, the house is Tyler’s first property to be listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The museum features original furnishings, including hand-carved tables and chairs, a grandfather clock from the colonial era, surgical tools and medical cases, and fine silver and china. It’s open for walk-in tours.
Just as impressive is the 1854 Dewberry Plantation (14007 FM 346 W., 903/825-9000, www.dewberryplantation.com, open by appointment, tours $8 adults and seniors, $5 children ages 6-18). The plantation site served as a campground for the officers of the Army of the Republic of Texas prior to their final battle with the Cherokee Indians. The home, billed as the only original two-story, pre-Civil War house still standing in Smith County, was built for War of 1812 hero Col. John Dewberry, who moved to the Tyler area in 1835.
Also noteworthy is the grand 1878 McClendon House (806 W. Houston St., 903/592-3533, www.mcclendonhouse.net, Fri.-Sat. 10am-4pm, tours $7). Once a hub for Tyler’s elegant Victorian society, the home was eventually purchased by the McClendon family, whose youngest daughter, Sarah, became a noted Washington, D.C., journalist with a presidential-coverage career spanning from Franklin Roosevelt to George W. Bush. The home is now primarily used as a wedding and events site, but is open to the public for tours.
Big cities don’t necessarily have the best zoos. One of the best-run and most highly acclaimed zoos in the state is Tyler’s Caldwell Zoo (2203 W. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 903/593-0121, www.caldwellzoo.org, Mar. 1-Labor Day daily 9am-5pm, off-season daily 9am-4pm, $11.50 adults ages 13-54, $9.50 seniors, $8 children ages 3-12). What started in 1938 as a backyard menagerie of squirrels and parrots for schoolchildren has evolved into an 85-acre zoo containing more than 2,000 animals representing species from East Africa, North America, and South America. Animals on display in naturalistic habitats include monkeys, rhinos, elephants, giraffes, cheetahs, and mountain lions.
For a dose of traditional culture, visit the respectable Tyler Museum of Art (on the east side of the Tyler Junior College campus at 1300 S. Mahon Ave., 903/595-1001, www.tylermuseum.org, Tues.-Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. 1pm-5pm, call ahead for tour information). The museum primarily showcases local and regional artists with an emphasis on contemporary works; however, occasional traveling exhibits feature centuries-old European paintings, Japanese artwork, and Native American pottery and ceramics. It contains three galleries on the main level, a smaller gallery for special exhibits upstairs, and a children’s gallery.
If you’re in Tyler with the family in tow, this is the place to go. Discovery Science Place (308 N. Broadway, 903/533-8011, www.discoveryscienceplace.org, Mon.-Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. 1pm-5pm, $8 adults, $6 children and seniors) offers three large exhibit halls with fun interactive features like the earthquake shake, cavern crawl, dinosaur exhibit, and bat cave.
For a town/city of just over 100,000, Tyler has a surprising number of entertainment options. Perhaps it’s due to the increasing number of Metroplex-area retirees who have been steadily moving to Tyler for its proximity and slower-paced lifestyle (and traffic). Regardless, the number and quality of people involved with the local arts scene have certainly improved over the past decade, resulting in top-notch ballet, symphony, and cultural offerings.
An organization drawing plenty of local attention is Ballet Tyler (4703 D.C. Dr., Ste. 105, 903/596-0224, www.artandseek.org). The 2009 convergence of two programs, the School of Ballet Tyler and the Tyler Junior College dance program, has helped raise the group’s profile. Dancers range in age 11-20, and the company stages several performances throughout the year. Visit the website for performance schedules and prices.
One of Tyler’s enduring cultural entities is the East Texas Symphony Orchestra (522 S. Broadway Ave., Ste. 101, 903/526-3876, www.etso.org). Newly named to encompass a larger region (as opposed to just Tyler), the orchestra has also bumped up its mission to bring classical music to a larger segment of the community. The organization offers a wide range of concerts, from contemporary to Renaissance.
For big-name touring acts, Tyler residents and visitors head to the University of Texas-Tyler’s Cowan Center (3900 University Blvd., 903/566-7424, www.cowancenter.org). This is the stage for international and touring stars from all aspects of entertainment, including comedy, jazz, and Broadway shows. Past performers and performances include Bill Cosby, David Copperfield, Lyle Lovett, Cats, Stomp, and Larry Hagman.
The “cornerstone of Tyler’s Arts District” is Gallery Main Street (110 W. Erwin St., 903/593-6905, www.heartoftyler.com/downtowntylerarts, Mon.-Sat. free). The gallery, affiliated with Tyler’s Main Street program, features a rotating schedule of juried exhibits for local art lovers.
Tyler isn’t really known as a major shopping destination; however, locals are increasingly spending time and money at the East Texas Fresh Farmer’s Market (2112 W. Front St.). Held each Tuesday and Saturday 7am-1pm, May-August, the market features regional vendors offering fresh produce, flowers, and wares. It’s a good way to soak up a slice of the local scene and support the local farming community in the process.
Tyler’s quality restaurant options are better than you’d expect, particularly for a smallish city in a largely rural area of the state. Perhaps it’s the steady arrival of Dallas retirees demanding fine-dining establishments, but the end result is good news for everyone, from travelers to locals to newcomers.
A stalwart on the scene is S Rick’s on the Square (104 W. Erwin St., 903/531-2415, www.rix.com, Mon.-Fri. 11am-midnight, Sat. 4pm-1am, Sun. 10am-2pm, $11-33), a swanky lunch and dinner joint and rowdy blues bar by night. In the heart of downtown in an old saloon and theater, Rick’s is the kind of place that gets everything right—tempting appetizers (shrimp and oysters), gigantic juicy burgers with chunks of fried potatoes on the side, and exquisite entrées ranging from chicken dumplings to tortilla-crusted mahimahi to the indulgent yet highly recommended crawfish-stuffed filet mignon. Similar in approach menu-wise is the popular Potpourri House (3200 Troup Hwy., 903/592-4171, www.potpourrihouse.com, Mon.-Sat. 10am-8pm, $10-29). This welcoming spot is combined with a retail establishment offering candles, antiques, jewelry, more candles, and probably even some potpourri. The restaurant’s offerings range from club sandwiches to baked fish and chicken to prime rib.
A local legend and a must-experience for barbecue fans is Stanley’s Famous Pit Bar-B-Q (525 S. Beckham Ave., 903/593-0311, www.stanleysfamous.com, $7-19). The smoked ribs here have been placed atop “best of” barbecue lists all across Texas, and for good reason—their tender, succulent taste will have you thinking about them for days. Try the smoked turkey and sausage, or sample a sliced brisket sandwich. Better yet, tackle the Brother-in-Law sandwich, teeming with sausage, chopped beef, and cheese.
Tyler is pretty far away from the border, but that doesn’t prevent it from having a few worthy Mexican restaurants. Among the most popular are the homegrown regional chains.
If you’re downtown, drop by Posado’s (2500 E. 5th St., 903/597-2573, daily 10:30am-10pm, $8-18). The mission-style decor adds to the authentic Mexican taste, including interior-style dishes such as marinated quail fajitas and shrimp or fish platters. You can’t go wrong with the classics here either, including chicken enchiladas and spicy beef tacos. A big bonus: The chips and salsa and dessert (ice cream or sopapillas) are free.
Locals also love Taqueria El Lugar (1726 E. Gentry Pkwy., 903/597-4717, Mon.-Thurs. 9am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 9am-10pm, Sun. 9am-6pm, $9-18). As the name implies, tacos are the specialty here, and they’re listed on the menu by number (up to 16). Order anything with the amazing guacamole and tasty beef (the cabbage isn’t quite as recommendable), and be sure to ask for it on a corn tortilla.
Chain hotels are pretty much the only choice in Tyler; fortunately, the available options are safe, reliable, and relatively affordable. On the lower end of the price spectrum is La Quinta (1601 W. Southwest Loop 323, 903/561-2223, www.lq.com, $75 d), featuring free Internet access, a free continental breakfast, and an outdoor pool.
Perhaps the best deal in town is the Comfort Suites at South Broadway Mall (303 E. Rieck Rd., 903/534-0999, www.choicehotels.com, $84 d), offering rooms with free Internet access, microwaves, and refrigerators, and hotel amenities such as an exercise room, free continental breakfast, manager’s reception (free happy hour drinks), and an indoor heated pool and whirlpool. The only drawback is its location: far away from the downtown activity.
On Broadway (about 10 minutes from downtown) is the recommendable Country Inn & Suites (6702 S. Broadway Ave., 903/561-0863, www.countryinns.com, $97 d). There’s plenty of space to spread out here, with a mini kitchen (refrigerator, microwave) and rooms offering free Wi-Fi. The free breakfast includes meats, eggs, bagels, and cereals. Nearby is the city’s largest hotel—the comfortable Holiday Inn Select (5701 S. Broadway Ave., 903/561-5800 or 800/465-4329, www.holidayinn.com, $103 d). The Holiday Inn features free Wi-Fi service, an outdoor pool, a full-feature fitness center, and free meals for kids 12 and under.
The Tyler Convention & Visitors Bureau (315 N. Broadway Ave., 903/592-1661 or 800/235-5712, www.visittyler.com) is just a few blocks north of the downtown square on the 1st floor of the historic Blackstone building. The friendly staffers will provide brochures, maps, and general information to help you get around the Rose Capital.
If, for some reason, you really need to get to Tyler in a hurry, you can actually take a commercial flight to Tyler Pounds Regional Airport (700 Skyway Blvd., 903/531-9825, www.cityoftyler.org). United and American Airlines fly regional jets to Tyler several times a day. From Houston, the fee is around $275 round-trip. Most people opt for the modest automobile, however, which takes about 3.5 hours from Houston (about the same amount of time it would take to fly, considering the security lines, boarding time, etc.).
If you’ve decided to invest a few hours into making the northeastern Texas getaway trip, you should set aside a few hours to explore Jefferson (population 1,869). This quaint Deep Southern community is nestled among the forests, offering a pleasant escape to the Piney Woods’s past. In its glory days of the mid-19th century, Jefferson was a burgeoning boomtown containing a kaleidoscope of cultures, from entrepreneurial East Coast shop merchants to newly freed slaves to westward-moving pioneers. For more than a decade, Jefferson welcomed a steady flow of steamboats bringing worldly influences and people.
In 1870, Jefferson had a population of 4,180 and was the sixth-largest city in Texas. Between 1867 and 1870, steamboats became a tremendous factor in the town’s commercial trade, which grew from $3 million to $8 million. By 1870, only the port of Galveston exceeded Jefferson in volume.
In 1873, things changed dramatically for Jefferson. The destruction of the Red River raft, a natural dam on the river, lowered the water level of the surrounding lakes and streams, making navigation to Jefferson via steamboat nearly impossible. Also that year, the Texas and Pacific Railway, which bypassed Jefferson, was completed. Without steamboat or railroad access, people started leaving Jefferson in droves.
In the mid-1900s, locals began looking at Jefferson’s distinctive past as a way to preserve and promote the town’s heritage, particularly its remarkable 100-plus state and nationally recognized historic structures. Known as the “Bed and Breakfast Capital of Texas,” tourism is now Jefferson’s most important economic base.
With so much Southern heritage in such a small town, it’s necessary to visit some of the sites that make Jefferson so historically significant. One of its crown jewels is the amazing House of the Seasons (409 S. Alley St., 903/665-8000, www.houseoftheseasons.com, tours Mon.-Sat. 11am, $10). Built in 1872 by Col. Benjamin Epperson, a prominent businessperson and friend of Sam Houston, this magnificent home contains architectural elements representing styles ranging from Greek Revival to Italianate to Victorian. The house gets its name from the glass encasement on top of the house, featuring colored glass representing each season of the year.
A visit to Jefferson is incomplete without a stop at the fascinating Jefferson General Store (113 E. Austin St., 903/665 8481, www.jeffersongeneralstore.com, Sun.-Thurs. 9am-6pm, Fri.-Sat. 9am-10pm). Walking through the creaky front screen doors offers a true step back in time, with vintage trinkets and current-day souvenirs mingling in a historic 1870s mercantile setting. Touches of bygone days are everywhere, from the signature five-cent cup of coffee to the homemade pecan pralines to the soda fountain. Jams, salsas, T-shirts, and candy round out this unique experience.
Also well worth a visit is The Grove (405 Moseley St., 903/665-8018, www.thegrove-jefferson.com, call for tour information, $6). Referred to as “the most haunted house in Jefferson,” The Grove is a private residence built in 1861 that was listed on the National Register of Historic Places. An hour-long tour offers a fascinating glimpse into the home, along with stories about the supernatural experiences of the owners, including a lady in a white dress who always takes the same path through the house when she appears. Its paranormal activity is so legendary, This Old House placed it on its list of Top 12 Haunted Homes, and it graces the cover of A Texas Guide to Haunted Restaurants, Taverns, and Inns.
Just outside of town is the stately Freeman Plantation (Hwy. 49 W., 903/665-2320, tours by appointment only, $7 per person), built on nearly 1,000 acres in 1850 by Williamson M. Freeman. Guided tours educate visitors about the Victorian antiques and the family who occupied the home during the antebellum period.
The Atalanta (210 W. Austin St., 903/665-2513) was a private railcar used by railroad tycoon Jay Gould. It’s rather odd that this elaborately designed and elegantly furnished car ended up in Jefferson since the city rejected Gould’s plans to bring a railroad through the town. Upon being spurned, he hightailed it out of there, predicting Jefferson’s demise (he was partly right, since the town never regained its steamboat-era splendor of the 1860s). The Atalanta features nearly a dozen rooms containing opulent interior materials such as mahogany, crystal light fixtures, and silver bathroom accessories. Located downtown across from the Excelsior House, it remains a major attraction in Jefferson’s heritage tourism industry.
If you’re still pining for historic ties to the Old South, drop by the campy and somewhat strange Scarlett O’Hardy’s Gone With the Wind Museum (408 Taylor St., 903/665-1939, www.scarlettohardy.com, Thurs.-Sat. 10am-5pm, $3 adults, $1 children ages 12 and under). The jam-packed museum contains everything imaginable related to the classic film, including posters, photos, costume reproductions, dolls, and seats from the Atlanta theater where the movie premiered in 1939. Perhaps most interesting is the collection of autographs from the movie’s stars, most notably Clark Gable and Vivien Leigh, Leslie Howard, Hattie McDaniel, and Butterfly McQueen.
The nearby Lake o’ the Pines (903/755-2597, www.lakeothepines.com) is just as charming as its name implies. This popular destination is particularly known for its fishing, with bass, catfish, and crappie the main biters. Recreational boating is another common activity, especially waterskiing, sailing, or relaxing on pontoon boats, party boats, and “floating cabins,” all available at several lakeside marinas. Campers also flock to Lake o’ the Pines, pitching tents and parking RVs at one of the four U.S. Army Corps of Engineers parks or privately owned campgrounds. Other options include guesthouses, cabins, or motels.
For the area’s premier recreational destination, head just downriver from Jefferson to Caddo Lake, the only natural lake in Texas (all the others were created by dams). Stringy Spanish moss and outstretched cypress trees surround this mysteriously beautiful and sometimes marshy lake. Caddo Indians claimed a giant flood formed the lake, but scientists believe massive logjams blocked the Red River, causing it to back up into the Cypress Bayou watershed, which formed the lake. Popular lake activities include camping, hiking, swimming, fishing, and boating. Among the many attractions at Caddo Lake is the Texas Parks and Wildlife-operated Caddo Lake State Park (take Hwy. 43 to FM 2198, 903/679-3351, www.tpwd.state.tx.us). The park offers access to diverse fishing, canoe rentals, and quaint cabins, built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s.
Because of its modest size, most restaurants in Jefferson are within walking distance of the historic downtown shopping and lodging attractions. One of the stalwarts is the tremendous Joseph’s Riverport Barbecue (201 N. Polk St., 903/665-2341, Mon.-Fri. 11am-6pm, Sat. 11am-3pm, $9-19). This is traditional East Texas-style ’cue, with sweet spicy sauce covering savory smoked meats, including pork ribs, brisket, and chicken. The turkey and chopped beef sandwiches are amazing, and the sides (potato salad, coleslaw, beans) are way better than average. Drop by Friday night for a catfish feast.
Another popular local eatery is The Hamburger Store (203 N. Market St., 903/665-3251, Mon.-Sat. 10:30am-8pm, Sun. 10:30am-3pm, $7-17). It should be called the Pie Store, however, since it’s best known for its incredible homemade pies. Call in a custom order (it takes about four hours) or pick up an individual slice while strolling through downtown. Of course you can also try to save room for pie after devouring one of the restaurant’s enormous juicy burgers. Go full-throttle and order a jalapeño chili cheddar burger followed by a piece of chocolate pie. A word of warning: The service here is extremely slow, so arrive early and take some time to work up an appetite.
For a fancier dining experience, make reservations at the top-notch Stillwater Inn (203 E. Broadway St., 903/665-8415, www.stillwaterinn.com, Tues.-Sat. 5:30pm-9:30pm, $10-32). Located in an 1890s Victorian house, this busy upscale restaurant is famous for its grilled seafood and steak, veal specials, and roasted rack of lamb.
Jefferson is the “Bed and Breakfast Capital of Texas,” so if you were ever going to stay in a B&B, this is the place to do it. The nearly 40 B&Bs far outnumber the measly hotel options, and the town is a Victorian-era playground, so you may as well go all the way.
Among the popular choices is the Claiborne House Bed & Breakfast (312 S. Alley, 903/665-8800, www.claibornehousebnb.com, $109-199), a stately Greek Revival home built in 1872. The Claiborne House offers six rooms—four in the main house and two in the carriage house, each named after romantic poets (Yeats, Wilde, Dickinson, etc.). All rooms have a framed poem, a book of the poet’s work, wireless Internet access, private baths, and color TVs. A full Southern gourmet breakfast is served at 9am, and a day spa is available featuring massages, body wraps, hot rock treatments, and salt scrubs.
The Old Mulberry Inn and Cottages (209 Jefferson St., 903/665-1945, www.jeffersontexasinn.com, $85-179) is recommended by Southern Living magazine and even the New York Times, and for good reason. This antebellum home contains five guest rooms and two cottages with private baths featuring footed tubs, family heirlooms, cable TV, and free wireless Internet access. The three-course gourmet breakfasts include delectable items such as artichoke quiche, baked pears with cranberries, Rocky Mountain grits, and mulberry almond coffee cake.
For those who insist on staying in a normal plush-free hotel in the B&B Capital of Texas, there’s really only one option in town: the Executive Inn & Suites (200 S. Walcott St., 903/665-3700, www.executiveinnjefferson.com, $85 d). There’s nothing fancy about this place, but it’s new and certainly pleasant, with a free hot breakfast, Jacuzzi suites, and free Wi-Fi. A word of caution: The loud whistles from the trains across the highway can be quite distracting. Especially at 3am.
The historic Excelsior House hotel (211 W. Austin St., 903/665-2513, www.theexcelsiorhouse.com, $135 d) is technically a hotel but feels like a B&B (not a surprise in this town). It’s rich in history and ghosts, however, and has hosted guests since the 1850s. Fans of paranormal activity claim this is one of the most haunted locations in town. During Jefferson’s prosperous days, famous people such as Ulysses S. Grant, Rutherford B. Hayes, and Oscar Wilde stayed here, and its 150-plus years of operation make it one of the oldest establishments of its kind still in business in Texas.
To find out more about the dozens of available B&Bs or other area attractions, pick up a map or brochure from the kind folks at the Marion County Chamber of Commerce (101 N. Polk St., 903/665-2672, www.jefferson-texas.com).
Like the other destinations in the Piney Woods region, Jefferson is usually accessed via U.S. Highway 59, which runs north-south to Houston (passing through Lufkin, Nacogdoches, and Marshall en route). The drive can take nearly four hours if you’re doing things right—making time to soak up the forest views, stopping for a bite to eat, and waiting patiently to pass the logging trucks. From Dallas, the drive is only a couple hours (eastbound on I-20) before heading north on U.S. Highway 59 for Marshall and Jefferson or south for Nacogdoches and Lufkin.