Houston skyline at dusk
S BIG THICKET NATIONAL PRESERVE
Texas State Railroad near Nacogdoches.
Like the mountains to the west, the pine forests of East Texas are a natural wonder not typically associated with the Lone Star State. Not surprisingly, the cultural gap between the two regions is as wide as their distance apart.
East Texas has a distinct Southern bayou influence, reflected in the region’s food, heritage, and even the accent. Locals are much more likely to regale visitors with long stories in their laiiid-baaack, draaaawn-out speaking style than their twangy, tight-lipped West Texan counterparts. Standing apart from this rural Southern character is the megalopolis of Houston, the fourth-largest city in the country and home to NASA, oil-related industries, a world-class medical district, and some of the preeminent museums (and humidity) in the country.
East Texas has long been the gateway to the Lone Star State because its earliest inhabitants—Native Americans, European explorers, Anglo settlers, and African Americans—arrived primarily from Eastern locales. One of the first things they encountered was the dense acreage now known as the Piney Woods, which includes several national forests and the Big Thicket Preserve.
One of the first groups to inhabit the area was the Caddo Indians, an advanced tribe with sophisticated trade networks throughout the region. The Caddos are credited with inspiring the name Texas, since they welcomed the Spanish explorers by referring to them as tejas, meaning friends or allies. By the 1700s, Spain attempted to fortify its presence in the area by establishing a series of missions to protect their political interests (especially against meddlesome France) and to “civilize” the native population by converting them to Catholicism. Neither of these ventures was very successful, so the land remained relatively unoccupied until Anglo homesteaders began arriving in large numbers in the early 1800s. In the southern portion of this region, just west of modern-day Houston, a group of settlers known as the Old Three Hundred established Stephen F. Austin’s initial colony. After the fall of the Alamo in March 1836, droves of frightened frontier families fled to East Texas in an event known as the Runaway Scrape.
Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.
S Houston Museum of Natural Science: This museum covers everything from dinosaurs to ancient Egypt to Latin American cultures. Bonus: a beautiful butterfly atrium (click here).
S Houston Museum of Fine Arts, Houston: Spanning several city blocks and boasting more than 64,000 pieces of art, this treasure trove of culture represents all major continents and eras, from antiquity to the present (click here).
S Contemporary Arts Museum of Houston: One of the country’s most respected modern art facilities offers a compelling collection of paintings, sculpture, and objects d’art in a stunning stainless-steel building (click here).
S NASA Space Center: For a true otherworldly experience, shoot over to NASA. Don’t miss the awe-inspiring Mission Control building (click here).
S San Jacinto Battleground Historic Site: This 1,200-acre site commemorates the legendary battle where troops under Gen. Sam Houston defeated the Mexican Army in 1836 (click here).
S Spindletop-Gladys City Boomtown Museum: The 1901 oil gush heard ’round the country erupted at this site kicking off Beaumont’s boomtown days (click here).
S Big Thicket National Preserve: A gaggle of species from the Gulf Coast, Central Plains, and Southeastern forests coexist here alongside critters from the deserts, bayous, woods, and swamps (click here).
S Texas State Railroad: Ride the rails on this rickety yet enchanting locomotive, which chugs, clanks, and charms its way through the East Texas Piney Woods (click here).
S Caddo Lake: The only natural lake in Texas is worth a visit for its backdrop of wispy Spanish moss and outstretched cypress trees. Enjoy hiking, swimming, fishing, or boating (click here).
By the late 1800s, the region became associated with industry. Railroad expansion and European immigration brought an increased population and entrepreneurs, and the new railroad lines provided access to the Piney Woods’s interiors, allowing the lumber industry to flourish. A few decades later, Texas’s identity was forever changed when the 100-foot-high oil spout known as the Lucas Gusher blew in (the industry term for erupting) near Beaumont. As soon as word spread about the gusher’s subterranean Spindletop oil field, tens of thousands of people flocked to the area to make (or lose) their fortunes. The colorfully named roughnecks and wildcatters worked the fields, while the entrepreneurial-minded investors made the money.
In 1901, the first year of the boom, three major oil companies—Gulf, Humble (later Exxon), and Texas (later Texaco)—formed in Beaumont, and by the following year there were 500 corporations in town. The impact of Spindletop and other oil fields discovered near Tyler is immeasurable, as it brought billions of dollars to Texas through oil company profits and related industry endeavors. Houston perhaps benefited the most, since the oil business ultimately shifted most of its headquarters and shipping operations to the city, which grew at phenomenal rates throughout the mid-1900s.
As a result of this intriguing history, East Texas has a remarkable number of heritage tourism and cultural destinations for visitors to explore. From Caddoan Indian burial mounds to historic logging towns to Southern plantation homes, oil boomtowns, and five national forests, this widespread region is an ideal place to experience the enormous legacy of the Lone Star State.
Houston is often considered more of a business obligation than a tourist destination, which is unfortunate, since many of the city’s museums and cultural attractions are first-rate. Those who make the effort to visit, be it for personal or professional reasons, will discover several days’ worth of intriguing activities.
To maximize your experiences in a minimal amount of time, first head to the Museum District, where nearly a dozen attractions—ranging from the enormous Museum of Natural Science to the small Buffalo Soldiers Museum—appeal to the entire cultural spectrum. Visitors can realistically make it to about three destinations in a day before losing steam, so pick a few topics of interest (from art to health to history) and make the most of them.
If you’re the kind of traveler who prioritizes unique-to-location experiences, make sure NASA is near the top of your list, since nowhere else in the world can claim Houston’s distinctive connection to the space program. It’s about a half hour outside of downtown, so you’ll need at least a half a day to fully appreciate the experience. Other uniquely Houston sites like the impressive San Jacinto Monument and Battleship Texas also involve a 30-minute drive, so be sure to plan accordingly.
The remaining vast expanse of East Texas is worth spending three or four days exploring, depending on the amount of time and energy available for seeking adventure among the Piney Woods and Deep South surroundings. Beaumont is a fun day trip from Houston (less than two hours away), especially for those who want to learn everything they ever wanted to know about Texas’s oil legacy. Naturalists should set aside a day or two to explore the Big Thicket National Preserve and other nearby national forests, and visitors interested in old-fashioned Southern culture are encouraged to spend a few days in the northern portion of the Piney Woods, where the cities of Tyler, Lufkin, and Jefferson exude Texas’s true heritage.
Known for its seemingly endless suburban sprawl, Houston is defined by its highways and loops—in fact, there are three loops: The Loop (Loop 610, the original and inner loop), the Belt (aka Beltway 8, Sam Houston Parkway, and Sam Houston Tollway), and the Grand Parkway (aka State Highway 99, an unfinished outer loop that will be the longest in the United States when finally completed). While many of Houston’s suburbs and outlying communities are worthy of exploration, the primary focus of this guide is the inner or near-Loop (in or around Loop 610).
the Water Wall near Houston’s Galleria
With downtown as Houston’s historical epicenter, the city’s noteworthy attractions begin to expand mainly to the west, including museums, Rice University, and now-kitschy mid-century modern architecture. To the north of these neighborhoods is Houston Heights (The Heights), a formerly low-key residential area that has transformed over the past decade into a trendy place to live and do business. Well-heeled Houstonians have traditionally lived in ritzy suburbs to the west, most notably the Uptown area anchored by the high-end Galleria shopping district. Because the Houston Ship Channel was dredged eastward to provide lucrative access to the Gulf of Mexico, this side of the city is almost entirely industrial, with the exception of two large college campuses—University of Houston and Texas Southern University—southeast of downtown.
Once practically deserted after dawn, key investments since the 1990s have remade downtown Houston back into a destination for reasons other than work. Just a few of the major draws are sporting-entertainment facilities that host Houston’s professional baseball, basketball, and soccer franchises; the Downtown Aquarium; the George R. Brown Convention Center; and the Theater District. The addition of light rail—plus its continued expansion centered on downtown—has made it easier than ever to get there. Downtown is vast, with pockets of nightlife, dining, and entertainment zones throughout—and even a subterranean network of air-conditioned tunnels that basically function as a shopping mall.
Bordering downtown to the northeast and Montrose/Kirby to the west, Midtown embodies the ethos of Houston: change. The revitalization of downtown since the 1990s has transformed Midtown from a commercial and low-income residential district into a commercial and high-income residential district. Expensive modern condos and townhomes abound, as well as pockets of dining and nightlife options. One unique district is Little Saigon, which has some of the city’s best Vietnamese restaurants, as well as street signs in both English and Vietnamese.
The name gives it away: Museums are the main attraction in this area southwest of Midtown. There are many major medical facilities here too, but what sounds more inviting—a Museum or Hospital District? With more than a dozen museums to explore within a manageable area, this is Houston’s most-visited part of town. With the added bonus of welcoming greenery in manicured parks and lush tree canopies, it’s an ideal neighborhood to showcase to visitors.
Long the antithesis of Houston’s sterile suburbs, the Montrose/Kirby area has been the bastion of the LGBT community, artists, hippies, punks, and various bohemian types for decades. But the freak scene has lost some of its edge of late. While the forces of gentrification have been at work for decades, the Montrose/Kirby of today is much different than a decade ago—meaning less seediness, higher rents, and even more fancy restaurants. That said, it remains an avant-garde and artsy hub, with world-class museums, plentiful galleries, eclectic nightlife, and renowned restaurants.
Officially known as West University Place (aka West U) for its proximity to Rice University, this enclave is actually a neighborhood municipality within the Houston metropolitan area. It is predominately a residential district, generally with a mix of cottages and bungalows attracting professorial types and wealthy families. The adjacent Rice Village is a 16-block zone packed with shops, restaurants, and bars.
If The Heights’ Victorians and tree-lined roads could speak, they might report on the massive social changes taking place in the district over a century-plus. The journey from streetcar suburb to city center has taken a predictable path: from desirable residential neighborhoods to postwar decline to revitalization/gentrification. The constant throughout has been its residential vibe. While it has a laid-back and somewhat bohemian feel like Montrose/Kirby, it has long been known more for its antiques shops and thrift stores than its of-the-moment clubs and boutiques—though it is not lacking in the latter.
Anchoring Uptown is the Galleria, one of the largest shopping centers in the United States and a major Houston attraction. Just west of Loop 610, the Galleria’s lavish sensibility is carried over into the district surrounding it, which features more upscale shops, luxury hotels, and office buildings. Uptown is, in fact, the second major business district in Houston, behind downtown. Beyond the business district, the vast and hard-to-define Uptown has many exclusive residential neighborhoods.
Not surprisingly, this category represents the outlying parts of town, typically beyond the Loop 610. Attractions in Greater Houston include cultural sites like NASA, Kemah Boardwalk, and San Jacinto Battleground to the southeast and east. To the west are shopping and dining destinations such as Chinatown and the Kirby Outlet Malls. Otherwise, this part of the city is filled mainly with Houston’s legendary sprawling suburbs.
Because Houston isn’t a big-time vacation destination, it doesn’t have an abundance of visitors centers offering maps and brochures. In fact, it only has one. Fortunately, the Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau (701 Avenida De Las Americas, 713/437-5200, www.visithoustontexas.com, daily 7am-10pm) can handle just about everything. The CVB’s office is chock-full of literature and knowledgeable staff members. Similar services are available southwest of town at Visit Bay Area Houston (604 Bradford Ave. in Kemah, 281/474-9700) and a Houston CVB kiosk at Katy Mills Mall (on I-10 about 15 miles west of town).
Tours of Houston and the surrounding area are also available. Contact Houston City Tours (832/388-8434, www.houstoncitytours.us) to choose from activity types or location. Another company, Houston Tours, Inc. (8915 Bellaire Blvd., 832/630-9188, www.houstontours.com) features traditional bus tours of downtown, outlying neighborhoods, and treks to Galveston.
For those venturing beyond Bayou City, the Texas Forest Trail Region (headquarters at 202 E. Pilar St. #214, Nacogdoches, 936/560-3699, www.texasforesttrail.com) is an ideal place to prepare for a Piney Woods adventure. Check out the website or drop by the main office to get help with determining an East Texas itinerary.
If you’re entering East Texas by vehicle from Louisiana, look for the Texas Department of Transportation’s Travel Information Center at two spots on the state border. The largest facility is in Orange (1708 E. I-10, 409/883-9416) on I-10 en route from New Orleans. The other is in Waskom (1255 N. I-20 E., 903/687-2547) on I-20 from Shreveport. Visit www.txdot.gov for road-related travel information.
the eclectic Orange Show art installation
Houston is so big, it has two airports. The rest of the cities in East Texas aren’t that big, but several have small regional airports to save travelers the long drives through forests and marshy grasslands.
Houston’s major airport is George Bush Intercontinental Airport (2800 N. Terminal Rd., 281/230-3100, www.airport-houston.com), just north of Houston. This is one of the major hubs for United Airlines. The city’s old airport, William P. Hobby Airport (7800 Airport Blvd., 713/640-3000, www.fly2houston.com/hobby), is now the center of activity for Southwest Airlines.
SuperShuttle (281/230-7275, www.supershuttle.com) offers shuttle service to and from area hotels and Bush Intercontinental and Hobby Airports.
If you’re not doing Uber, you can arrange for cab pickup service from within the city by contacting one of the following local companies: Houston VIP Taxi (281/616-5838), Liberty Cab Company (713/444-4444), and Taxis Fiesta (713/225-2666).
To rent a car at Bush Intercontinental Airport, contact the Rental Car Center (281/230-3000, www.fly2houston.com/iah/rental-cars). All the major rental car companies are accessible from this shared location about five minutes away from the terminals, and the rental companies share a shuttle system that runs about every five minutes.
Houston is large enough to make accessibility by bus and train a viable option (thanks to the frequency in arrivals and departures). Those interested in traveling by bus can contact Houston Greyhound (2121 Main St., 713/759-6565 or 800/231-2222, www.greyhound.com). Trains arrive and depart at the Houston Amtrak station (902 Washington Ave., 713/224-1577 or 800/872-7245, www.amtrak.com) via Amtrak’s Sunset Limited line.
Houston’s public transportation system, the Metro, aka the Metropolitan Transit Authority of Harris County (713/635-4000, www.ridemetro.org), offers local and commuter light rail and bus service. Tickets are available from vending machines at each station. The Metro’s red line services 16 stations near downtown’s busiest commercial and recreational sites.
A city as big as Houston (metro population 2,296,224) deserves to be named after a larger-than-life figure: Sam Houston, president of the Republic of Texas who, as general of the Texas Army, led the fight for independence from Mexico. Everything about Houston is huge—with 6.5 million people in the area, it’s the largest city in Texas and fourth-largest in the country. The Bayou City is notorious for its lack of zoning ordinances and its high humidity, resulting in unmitigated sprawl and unbearably hot summers. But it’s not without its charm—Houston has world-class cultural and medical facilities, and its immense international population contributes to a truly cosmopolitan setting with world-renowned corporations, services, and restaurants.
The city even started out with grand ambitions. In the late 1830s, New York City brothers and entrepreneurs Augustus and John Allen claimed that the town would become the “great interior commercial emporium of Texas,” with ships from New York and New Orleans sailing up Buffalo Bayou to its door. For most of the late 1800s, Houston was a typical Texas town, fueled by cotton farming and railroad expansion. Unlike other cities, however, Houston received a major financial and identity boom when oil was discovered at nearby Spindletop in 1901. The oil industry changed Houston forever, with major corporations relocating to the city and using its deep ship channel for distribution.
Houston received another identity change and financial surge in the mid-1900s, when it became a headquarters for the aerospace industry. NASA established its Manned Spacecraft Center in 1961, which eventually became the epicenter of the country’s space program with its earth-shattering Gemini and Apollo missions.
With the proliferation of air-conditioning around the same time, Houston’s brutal humidity was no longer a year-round deterrent, resulting in corporations and their associated workers relocating from colder climes. The population boomed even more in the 1970s when the Arab oil embargo caused Houston’s petroleum industry to become one of the most vital assets in the country. The world oil economy in the 1980s caused a recession in Houston, and although the city eventually recovered, it received another black eye in the late 1990s as a result of the Enron accounting fraud scandal.
Texans typically don’t consider Houston a viable travel destination, but they should. Most people within the state prefer to visit natural wonders such as Big Bend or South Padre Island, but a dose of cosmopolitan life is good for the soul. Houston’s sense of style is a slight step ahead of the Lone Star State’s masses, its restaurants often specialize in the regional cuisine of lesser-known countries (offering tantalizing taste-bud sensations beyond standard eatery fare), and the city’s public transportation system is surprisingly comprehensive in its coverage.
A drive through Houston’s inner-core neighborhoods reveals what happens when a city doesn’t prioritize zoning regulations. Depending on who you ask, it’s good (Texans in particular don’t like to be told what they can or cannot do with their property) or bad (significant historic neighborhoods and homes are routinely leveled to make room for McMansions). Regardless, it’s part of Houston’s character, even if that means a 150-year-old home sits in the shadow of a monstrous contemporary house across the street from a gargantuan pseudo-historic retail and residential complex.
Houston may never equal San Antonio in visitation numbers, but its distinctive characteristics—a Southern cosmopolitan city with an independent spirit befitting of Texas—make it a worthy destination for more than just business travelers.
A city of Houston’s size offers countless attractions, most of them cultural in nature. The Museum District is a loose collection (not logically planned, but what in Houston is?) of facilities dedicated to art, science, and children’s sites just southwest of downtown. The urban core features occasional historic buildings and theaters among the modern skyscrapers, and the city boasts several offbeat spots outside of town worth checking out for fun, including the folk art wonder of The Orange Show and the historically significant state park featuring the San Jacinto Battleground site and the Battleship Texas.
More inspiring than its name implies, the city’s Museum District just south of Midtown allows visitors to maximize their experiences in a minimal amount of time. Spanning a several-mile area with parks (and medical facilities), the district offers 19 attractions—ranging from the enormous Museum of Natural Science to the medium-size Children’s Museum to the small Buffalo Soldiers Museum—appealing to the entire cultural spectrum. Visitors can realistically make it to about three destinations each day before losing steam.
One of the best places in Houston for a family adventure is the Houston Museum of Natural Science (1 Hermann Circle Dr., 713/639-4629, www.hmns.org, daily 9am-5pm, $25 adults, $15 seniors and students, extra fees may apply for exhibits, free Thurs. 2pm-5pm). The museum features an almost overwhelming array of exhibits and artifacts covering everything from dinosaurs to gems and minerals to ancient Egypt. Its permanent collection is especially impressive, most notably the Hall of the Americas, with its compelling exhibits depicting the stories of how people arrived on the continent (including Native American, Mayan, and Aztec cultures) and their lifeways once they became permanent residents.
the Houston Museum of Natural Science
As if the museum didn’t already have enough amazing exhibits, it now has an entire wing devoted to paleontology. Featuring dramatically lit dinosaur fossils and exhibits dedicated to evolution and early man, the hall is a sight to behold, especially with its action-packed scenes of predators and prey.
Children will never want to leave the museum’s Discovery Place on the lower level, featuring interactive exhibits dedicated to light and sound waves; machines with levers, pulleys, and gears; and a simulated weather studio. Kids and parents will also be drawn to Energy Hall, an extensive area showcasing the importance of the oil and gas industry to Houston and the region (especially according to its major sponsors Chevron, Conoco-Phillips, Exxon-Mobil, and Phillips 66. Interactive hands-on and touch-screen displays about oil density, drilling, and delivery allow children to learn through play. Also, kids will be (perhaps unexpectedly) interested in the museum’s large gemstone exhibit, featuring colorful and sharply cut gems in fascinating backlit displays.
The museum’s butterfly exhibit is a bit pricey ($8-9) but worthwhile, especially to see the thousands of colorful, lithe winged creatures peacefully meander throughout the towering domed Mayan rainforest habitat. A lengthy waterfall flows gently in the background, and the butterflies occasionally drop by for a personal visit. The museum also contains a McDonald’s, but be forewarned: At lunch and dinner the scene can be as crazy as Times Square on New Year’s Eve.
Billing itself as “the largest art museum in America south of Chicago, west of Washington, D.C., and east of Los Angeles,” the Houston Museum of Fine Arts, Houston (1001 Bissonnet St., 713/639-7300, www.mfah.org, Tues.-Wed. 10am-5pm, Thurs. 10am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 10am-7pm, Sun. 12:15pm-7pm, $23 adults, $18 seniors and students ages 6-18, free on Thurs.) contains several major buildings offering 300,000 square feet of display space and 18 acres of public gardens drawing more than two million people annually. Be sure to look for the main entrance on Bissonnet Street since the museum complex stretches over several blocks. Free parking is available at several nearby street lots or for $8 in an adjacent parking garage on Binz Street.
the Houston Museum of Fine Arts, Houston
The museum’s collection contains nearly 64,000 pieces of art representing all major continents and dating from antiquity to the present. It’s challenging to soak up the significance of each collection in a half-day visit, so consider planning ahead by visiting the museum’s website to see what inspires you (the “100 highlights” tab is a good starting place).
European masters are always a compelling option, including impressively bold Italian Renaissance paintings and the mesmerizing French impressionist works. Also make a point to visit the Arts of North America wing, offering quality examples of nascent American landscape paintings, stunning black-and-white photographs, vintage jewelry, and renowned works of sculpture.
The museum is renowned in the national arts scene for its impressive collection of rare and diverse work. Its ancient Asian holdings are especially notable, including sculpture from Japan’s pre-Buddhist days and a Chinese boat dating to circa 2400 BC. Other significant collections include masterworks by famed Western artist Frederic Remington, and the Glasswell Collection of African Gold, considered the best of its kind in the world.
As big-city museums go, this is one of the best, with intriguing and captivating (and sometimes head-scratching) objets d’art down every hall. In the heart of the Houston Museum District, the Contemporary Arts Museum of Houston (5216 Montrose Blvd., 713/284-8250, www.camh.org, Tues.-Wed. and Fri. 10am-7pm, Thurs. 10am-9pm, Sat. 10am-6pm, Sun. noon-6pm, free) is unmistakable, housed in a distinctive stainless-steel building designed by prominent architect Gunnar Birkerts.
As a non-collecting museum, the facility focuses on current and new directions in art, with regularly changing exhibits and acclaimed education programs. The museum grew steadily in the 1970s and 1980s to reach significant status in the nation’s art world with celebrated exhibits featuring contemporary still-life painting, thematic installations, performance pieces, and other mediums. The museum’s store is a step above similar shops, featuring whimsical toys and objects, large posters, decorative items, and memorable gifts.
Since Houston is one of the country’s leading medical centers, it makes sense there’s a corresponding Health Museum (1515 Hermann Dr., 713/521-1515, www.mhms.org, Mon.-Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. noon-5pm, $8 adults, $6 seniors and children ages 3-12, occasional fees for traveling exhibits). Located in the Museum District, this modest-size facility is dedicated to educating visitors (kids, mostly) about the importance of good health. The museum includes one of the best exhibits in town, the Amazing Body Pavilion, where you can experience a human body by walking through it. Start by entering through the mouth and exploring the various systems and organs via innovative interactive displays. Vocal cords, lung capacity, stomach acids, and blood content are portrayed through games, hands-on activities, and informative models. The museum also features traveling exhibits related to children’s health issues and a fancy gift shop with fun toys, games, and knickknacks.
Consistently rated one of the city’s top attractions is the lush, welcoming, and occasionally stinky Houston Zoo (6100 Hermann Park Dr., 713/533-6500, www.houstonzoo.org, daily 9am-5pm, $17 ages 12-64, $13 children ages 2-11, $10.50 seniors). Five thousand animals keep adults and children entertained in 55 acres of various worldwide ecosystems. Be sure to drop by the World of Primates, the Asian elephant habitat, the lion and tiger exhibit, and the grizzly bear habitat. Kids will also love the Children’s Zoo, featuring a petting area with various farm animals, and the “Meet the Keeper” program, offering behind-the-cage insight. Families with children will want to set aside time for a little excursion on the train, which takes a short journey through the park along the zoo’s border. Also, if you have children in tow, consider bringing some extra clothes since most kids love the water play area and will undoubtedly get soaked.
A must-see if you’re in the Museum District with kids is the Children’s Museum of Houston (1500 Binz St., 713/522-1138, www.cmhouston.org, Tues.-Sat. 10am-6pm, Thurs. until 8pm, Sun. noon-6pm, $12 adults and children ages 1 and up). The building itself is a sight to behold—an appropriately playful take on classical architecture with giant colorful details. The fun continues inside, where nine galleries engage children’s minds through various subjects including science, geography, performing arts, and history. One of the most popular and informative attractions is the multilevel exhibit How Does It Work? Parents may even pick up a few pointers on how mobile phones function and how turning a key gets an engine running. Younger kids will relish the opportunity to sit in a model car with the freedom to push and pull every button and lever in sight. Other fun activities include an interactive Mexican village, art stations, live shows, and a café with healthy snacks. An added bonus: The Teacher and Family Resource Center has loads of books and items related to child development and parenting for the grown-ups who may need a break from all the incessant noise and questions.
The specialized Buffalo Soldiers National Museum (3816 Caroline St., 713/942-8920, www.buffalosoldiermuseum.com, Mon.-Fri. 10am-5pm, Sat. 10am-4pm, $10 adults, $5 students, free Thurs. 1pm-4pm) recently moved from a modest-size facility to a larger building. Appropriately, the subject matter is deserving of this greater space. The museum’s name is derived from the term associated with the African American troops who served in the U.S. Army and protected the Texas frontier in the late 1800s. The Native Americans reportedly referred to them as Buffalo Soldiers due to their immense bravery and valor. Fittingly, the museum honors the legacy of African Americans’ contributions to military service for the past 150 years. This is a unique collection of materials dedicated to a compelling aspect of Texas and the United States’ heritage. Two stories of exhibits feature artifacts, photos, and maps detailing the importance of legacies being passed on to future generations. It’s a true learning experience, and it’s inspiring to see the groups of area students making connections with their past as interpretive guides offer insight about the uniforms, flags, and equipment.
A somber subject is handled admirably at the Holocaust Museum Houston (5401 Caroline St., 713/942-8000, www.hmh.org, Mon.-Fri. 9am-5pm, Sat.-Sun. noon-5pm, $12 adults, $8 seniors, not recommended for children under 10). The museum’s mission is to educate people about the dangers of prejudice and hatred in society, and it certainly makes an impact on everyone who walks through its doors. Visitors learn about the historical and personal stories associated with the Holocaust in the museum’s permanent exhibit called Bearing Witness: A Community Remembers, which focuses on the stories of Holocaust survivors living in the Houston area. Displays chronicle the Nazi rise to power and the imprisonment in concentration camps. Artifacts, photos, films, informative panels, and a research library serve as testament to the suffering, with the hope that this educational experience will help prevent future atrocities from occurring.
the Holocaust Museum Houston
One of the best little museums in the region is the Houston Center for Photography (1441 W. Alabama St., 713/529-4755, www.hcponline.org, Wed.-Sun. 11am-7pm, free). Housed in a funky building at the edge of the Museum District, the HCP’s mission is to encourage and educate people about art and photography. Exhibits showcase local and national photographers, and programs and services strive to stimulate dialogue about the art form through digital workstations, presentations about methods and critique, and community collaboration.
Even if you’re not an architectural aficionado, you’ll be impressed by the contemporary building that houses the Asia Society Texas Center (1370 Southmore Blvd., 713/496-9901, www.asiasociety.org/texas, Tues.-Sun., 11am-6pm, general admission free, exhibits $5). In a residential neighborhood just a block away from the Museum District, the graceful structure blends in perfectly with its surroundings, offering panoramic views of downtown Houston from its enormous second-story windows. Designed by Harvard-educated Yoshio Taniguchi, the 40,000-square foot building is impeccable, with clean sight lines and exquisite materials. Research and community outreach are the center’s primary focus at this point, but there are several public displays and an outdoor sculpture garden reflecting its mission.
The terms “downtown Houston” and “tourist attractions” aren’t typically used together. There are plenty of shiny skyscrapers, hotel and convention facilities, and sports arenas, but not many cultural sites for travelers. Regardless, it’s worth checking out the downtown area just to experience Texas’s version of cosmopolitan life. And to explore the bizarre subterranean tunnel system.
Mingle with marine life at the modest-size Downtown Aquarium (410 Bagby St., 713/223-3474, www.aquariumrestaurants.com, Sun.-Thurs. 10am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 10am-10:30pm, $12 adults, $10 seniors, $9 children, additional fees for rides and parking). Not as extensive or awe-inspiring as some other big-city aquariums, Houston’s version is focused on fun, and there’s plenty to be had here. Families will marvel at the enormous tanks, touch pools, and (slightly unexpected) midway rides outside.
Regardless of your age, it’s always awe-inspiring to stand face-to-face with a grouper, piranha, or shark. And speaking of sharks, one of the aquarium’s highlights is the Shark Voyage, where a train takes visitors into a clear tunnel surrounded by blacktips, whitetips, and zebra sharks. Other notable exhibits are the Gulf of Mexico tank with barracuda and snappers, and the Discovery Rig, where kids can get a handle on horseshoe crabs and stingrays. The aquarium also includes a seemingly unrelated yet interesting exhibit area with several majestic white tigers.
The on-site restaurant is better than expected, so consider planning your visit around a mealtime to enjoy a decent seafood plate while gazing at happily living sea creatures in the surrounding 150,000-gallon aquarium. Stick with the basics here (the flaky and flavorful whitefish or succulently seasoned shrimp) and you’ll be pleasantly satisfied with your day of sensory sea-related experiences.
Incidentally, be sure to step outside and pony up for a few of the midway rides, just to add a different element to the fun factor. A medium-size Ferris wheel offers spectacular views of downtown Houston, and the merry-go-round (with sea creatures in place of horses) will bring genuine smiles of delight to your family’s faces.
Offering a welcome historical respite in the contemporary urban jungle downtown is the Heritage Society at Sam Houston Park (1100 Bagby St., 713/655-1912, www.heritagesociety.org, Tues.-Sat. 10am 4pm, Sun. 1pm-4pm, museum gallery free, guided tours $15 adults, $12 seniors, $6 students ages 6-18). Ten historic structures representing nearly 75 years of Houston’s 19th-century past (1823-1905) provide visitors and residents a sense of the city’s colorful history.
Although the buildings were relocated to the park from other parts of town, their collective stories provide a slice of 1800s life in the burgeoning boomtown. For those interested in a quick overview, the Kellum-Noble House gallery showcases the Heritage Society’s early and successful preservation efforts in a city that often didn’t place a high value on protecting its past.
Located just north of downtown in a semi-industrial neighborhood is the highly recommended Saint Arnold Brewing Company (2000 Lyons Ave., 713/686-9494, www.saintarnold.com, beer hall open Mon.-Thurs. 11am-4:30pm, Fri. 11am-10pm, Sat. 11am-3pm, free; tours Sat. at noon, 1pm, and 2pm, $10 tour includes souvenir glass and four 8-oz. samples). It takes a few minutes to be transported from the warehouse scenery to the beer hall experience, but it’s worth the effort.
Billing itself as Texas’s oldest craft brewery, Saint Arnold’s has an impressive history in an industry that’s overflowing all across the country. With new independent breweries opening nearly every month in Texas, Saint Arnold’s can claim legacy status with a 1994 “born on” date. The brewery makes around 10 different year-round beers, six seasonal varieties, and a handful of special series (options are updated on the website).
The best place to sample them is in the brewery’s beer hall—a welcoming room with long tables and German-inspired design. More than a dozen brews are on tap, and the bartenders are happy to offer suggestions based on personal tastes. Always-reliable options include the Elissa IPA, Weedwacker hefeweizen, and 5 O’Clock Pils. Make a point to visit at lunch or dinner, since the beer hall’s café serves ideally accompanying German food (the bratwurst on a pretzel roll is superb).
Houston’s bizarre yet fascinating Downtown Tunnels (713/650-3022, tour info at 713/222-9255, www.downtownhouston.org) are more of a local shopping and errand-running destination than tourist attraction, but their uniqueness is worth noting. The six-mile subterranean system connects dozens of downtown buildings, offering an air-conditioned respite from triple-digit surface temperatures. Interestingly, the tunnels started as a small system to connect three downtown theaters in the 1930s; now, tunnelers can find scores of services, ranging from banks to restaurants to clinics to clothing boutiques, 20 feet below the surface.
the Downtown Tunnels
The tunnel system is accessible primarily from elevators, stairways, and escalators inside commercial buildings and parking garages situated above the passageways. The only building offering direct access to the tunnels from the street is the Wells Fargo Plaza (1000 Louisiana St.) along with the McKinney Place Garage (930 Main St.). If you’re interested in spending some time exploring the system, it’s an appealing getaway on a sweltering summer day in Houston.
Once belowground, there are plenty of maps and wayfinding signs to help you get oriented. You’ll need them, too, since it can get pretty confusing to keep track of your location when you don’t have traditional visual landmarks (street signs, buildings, etc.). Things move pretty quickly in the tunnels, and after awhile you’ll realize that most people are there to do common things citizens and workers do in cities all around the world: run errands and grab a bite to eat. They just don’t normally do these things underground. For those who want to plan ahead, consult the color-coded maps on the website.
What do you do when you have too much fine art to handle? If you’re renowned art collectors John and Dominique de Menil, you open your own museum. The Menil Collection (1515 Sul Ross St., parking at 1515 W. Alabama St., 713/525-9400, www.menil.org, Wed.-Sun. 11am-7pm, free) is set among comfortable homes at the edge of the trendy Heights neighborhood and is an ideal place to spend a few hours soaking up some magnificent art spanning many ages. The grounds are expansive and inviting, with an abundance of trees, installation artwork, and even a wooden swing.
The Menils have passed on, but they left a legacy of approximately 17,000 paintings, sculptures, prints, drawings, photographs, and rare books. Most of the works are modern with an emphasis on the surrealist movement, but there are also African pieces and works from the Byzantine period on display. Be sure to check around each nook and cranny since some of the Menil’s most rewarding experiences are in solitary areas where artwork and gardens are bathed in natural light.
The Menil compound also includes several noteworthy structures near the main museum building that are worth an extra hour of time. Two blocks south of the main building is a fascinating Dan Flavin light installation, housed inside a former grocery store. The vertical-oriented fluorescent tubes on the side walls are a sensory delight, drawing your eye to the spacious open room and toying with color in your peripheral vision. Also be sure to set aside at least 15 minutes to experience the Rothko Chapel, a block east of the main building. From the outside, the chapel is disarmingly stark (it’s no Sistine), with bland rectangular brick walls. Inside, it’s similarly subdued, but the silence screams reverence. Even if you’re not religious, the experience of being completely quiet (either alone or among others) in a public space surrounded by muted colors is absolutely sacred.
The affluent home of unfortunately named Ima Hogg, a respected Texas philanthropist, now houses the Bayou Bend Collection (6003 Memorial Dr., 713/639-7750, www.mfah.org, guided tours Tues.-Thurs. 10am-11:45am and 1pm-2:45pm, Fri.-Sat. 10am-11:15am, regular hours Tues.-Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. 1-pm; guided tours $12.50 adults, $11 seniors, $6.25 students ages 10-18). This spectacular 1928 home is one of Houston’s cultural treasures, and it’s filled with an impressive collection of nearly 5,000 antique objects showcasing American decorative arts from 1620 to 1870. “Miss Hogg,” as she was known, also had a hand in the design of the opulent home and grounds, featuring lush gardens and distinctive decorations spanning from the colonial to antebellum eras. Visitors are encouraged to call in advance to make tour reservations, and it should be noted that children under age 10 are not permitted in the home (apparently some old-fashioned customs are still retained along with the objects).
Another art museum in an impressive homestead is Rienzi (1406 Kirby Dr., 713/639-7800, www.mfah.org/visit/rienzi, tours only Wed.-Sat. 10am, 11am, 1:30pm, 2:30pm, 3:30pm, Sun. 1pm-4pm every 30 minutes, $8 adults, $5 seniors and students, children ages 12 and under free). Dedicated to European decorative arts, Rienzi features paintings, furnishings, and miniatures in the former home of local philanthropists Carroll Sterling Masterson and Harris Masterson III. The home was designed by noted Houston architect John Staub in 1952, and the name references Harris Masterson’s grandfather Rienzi Johnston, a prominent Houston newspaperman and politician.
In the 1960s, hundreds of Vietnamese residents fled their country and settled in and around Houston, where they found jobs in fishing and shrimping (and working in manufacturing and retail) in a humid coastal environment reminiscent of their homeland. Today, Houston’s Vietnamese community of approximately 80,000 is the third largest in the nation.
Traditional Vietnamese cuisine is available in many Houston neighborhoods.
During the past few decades—particularly in the 2000s—tens of thousands of Vietnamese residents relocated from California and their native country to purchase homes and open businesses, mostly along a four-mile stretch of Bellaire Boulevard in southwestern Houston. Comparatively cheap housing drew the Californians, many who lived in Los Angeles’s famed Little Saigon district.
Word soon got out that Vietnamese families were selling their pricey L.A. abodes and purchasing homes in Houston for a third of the cost. Their remaining funds were often invested in new Vietnamese-centered enterprise businesses, including restaurants, real estate firms, medical facilities, and supermarkets.
The result is a vibrant community, and its neighboring enclaves—shops and residences representing cultures from Chinese to Latino to Pakistani—add to Houston’s cosmopolitan and diverse atmosphere. Incidentally, the Vietnamese restaurant scene is top-notch, with options ranging from inexpensive mom-and-pop operations ($2 for a tasty banh-mi sandwich) to upscale contemporary cuisine. What was once the Vietnamese “best-kept secret” is quickly becoming a high-profile area.
The collection is best known for its fine English ceramics and furniture, European jewelry, and sculpture, including the picture hall’s main attraction, an early-1800s white marble Venus. The surrounding four-acre grounds are also impressive, with welcoming shade trees and lush gardens. Drop-in visits are welcome, but reservations are recommended (except Sun.).
Considered one of the finest universities in the South, Rice University is an oasis of intellectualism (and vegetation) in this sprawling metropolis. With an exclusive undergraduate enrollment of approximately 3,700 students, the university has a reputation for its high-quality educational instruction, especially research in the medical, science, and engineering fields. Interestingly, the institution did not charge tuition until 1965.
For those interested in soaking up the collegiate scene, consider dropping by the Rice Student Center (6100 Main St., 713/348-4096). Here, you can pick up a T-shirt or ballcap, grab a coffee, visit the gardens, and even have a beer at Willy’s Pub. Another noteworthy place for visitors to explore is the nearby Rice University Art Gallery (ground floor of Sewall Hall, 713/348-6069, Tues.-Sat. 11am-5pm, Sun. noon-5pm), offering a modest collection of site-specific installation works by international painters, sculptors, and photographers. Visitors can take self-guided tours, allowing them to interact with the large-scale artwork.
Visitor parking is available at six campus locations. For a detailed map with parking locations and fees, visit www.rice.edu/maps.
Garnering the most visual attention these days is the spectacular Skyspace building, adjacent to the university’s Shepherd School of Music. The pyramid-esque structure was designed for music, but the visual effect is profound. The two-story construction appears as a large grass-covered mound topped by a futuristic light show that projects LED-based colors onto the enormous 72-foot square roof, which opens to the sky.
Experience Houston’s oft-forgotten natural side at the Houston Arboretum & Nature Center (4501 Woodway Dr., 713/681-8433, www.houstonarboretum.org, trails and grounds daily 7am-7pm, Discovery Room Tues.-Sun. 10am-4pm, free). On the west side of near-downtown Memorial Park, the 155-acre nature sanctuary is a green oasis in a city known for its sprawling concrete. Native plants and animals are the focal point, with interactive exhibits and activities educating residents and visitors about the importance of not paving over everything. The park area is beautifully landscaped, and kids will love the Discovery Room’s pondering pond and learning tree. Stroll the five miles of trails, hear the sweet sounds of birds, and get a glimpse of Houston’s version of the natural world.
Houstonians take immense pride in their beloved Water Wall (2800 Post Oak Blvd., 713/621-2011, daily 8am-9pm). Located in a strangely unoccupied area among office buildings and Galleria parking garages, this six-story structure is exactly what it sounds like—a giant wall of cascading water. But it needs to be experienced to be truly appreciated. The structure is semicircular, and the hypnotic sound of falling water is especially mesmerizing. The gentle mist provides a soothing respite from a hot summer day, and the experience is even cooler at night thanks to the dramatic lighting (and “cooler” temperatures in the 80s). Considered by many to be the most romantic spot in town, the Water Wall is typically bustling with couples on dates, getting their photograph taken, or even getting married. Or taking selfies. The nearby colossal 64-story-tall Williams Tower offers a nice urban complement to the scene. Parking can be a hassle—instead of driving around in search of a nonexistent street spot, head directly to the nearby West Drive parking garage, which doesn’t charge a fee on weekends.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Light-years away from ordinary cultural attractions is the NASA Space Center (1601 NASA Pkwy., 281/244-2100, www.spacecenter.org, Mon.-Fri. 10am-5pm, Sat.-Sun. 10am-6pm, extended summer hours, $30 adults, $28 seniors, $25 children ages 4-11, check for online discounts). NASA is about as big as it gets for Houston tourist attractions, and it’s one of the only cities in the United States to host such a distinct icon of contemporary American history.
Those who want to experience the significance and history of the facility should go directly to the tram tour at the far end of the main building. The open-air tram transports visitors to the space center’s significant buildings, including the remarkable Mission Control Center. Here, visitors can learn (or relive) the fascinating saga of the Apollo manned spacecraft missions. A knowledgeable and entertaining guide takes you on a descriptive tour of the extraordinary manned spacecraft experience as you peer through a glass partition at the dated yet iconic original gray-paneled equipment and flat monitor screens. Goosebumps involuntarily rise on your neck as you realize you’re in the exact same room where the words “The Eagle has landed” and “Houston, we have a problem” were first heard. Next door, you’ll get to see real astronauts in action at the Space Vehicle Mockup Facility, containing space shuttle orbital trainers, an International Space Station trainer, a precision air-bearing floor, and a partial gravity simulator.
Most of NASA’s main facility features educational and entertainment-related elements, including Starship Gallery, containing impressive space-related artifacts such as the Apollo 17 command module, the Gemini 5 capsule, lunar rovers, and trainers. Additional attractions include interactive flight simulators for young adults, and Independence Plaza with a model of the space shuttle Independence (sadly, political maneuvering at the state and federal level have resulted in Houston’s Space Center lacking a space shuttle to display).
You know that occasional burst of inspiration that enters your brain? The one that encourages you to take an idea, no matter how ambitious, and follow through with it? Jeff McKissack, a Houston postal-worker-turned-artist, actually did it. He built an enormous folk art monument dedicated to oranges. McKissack glorified his favorite fruit with 3,000 square feet of space filled with orange-related folk art now known as The Orange Show (2402 Munger St., 713/926-6368, www.orangeshow.org, open most weekends noon-5pm, $5). Standing among modest suburban homes just east of downtown, this bizarrely compelling artwork is comprised primarily of brick and concrete, accompanied by metal sculptures, mosaic tilework, and various random objects (birdhouses, windmills, statues). McKissack once delivered oranges throughout the South, and he apparently became obsessed enough with them to fashion this whimsical collection of objects found along his mail route. The absurdity-bordering-on-lunacy factor is rather fascinating, and the devotion to his subject is admirable in a disturbing kind of way. McKissack apparently believed his life work (it took him nearly 25 years to assemble his collection into a publicly accessible venue) would become a major tourist destination, but somehow it never quite caught on with the masses. Regardless, it remains an intriguing folk art environment unlike any other you’ll ever encounter. Incidentally, you’ll know you’re in the right spot as soon as you see the colossal 70-foot-tall blue saxophone, an enormous sculpture acquired by the art collective that’s comprised of oil field pipes, an entire VW Beetle, and even a surfboard.
About 25 miles southeast of downtown on Galveston Bay, the popular Kemah Boardwalk (215 Kipp Ave., 281/535-8100, www.kemahboardwalk.com, open daily, amusement rides Mon.-Thurs. noon-7pm, Fri. noon-9pm, Sat. 10:30am-10pm, Sun. 10:30am-9pm, all-day ride passes $24 adults, $19 children) features restaurants, shops, fountains, and an impressive collection of amusement park-style rides at the water’s edge. Though it’s touristy by nature (and draws suburbanites by the thousands for an escape from their ’hoods), the boardwalk offers a much-needed summertime diversion for families along with a nostalgic sense of fun. The restaurants are more notable for their bayside views than adventurous fare, but there’s plenty of excitement nearby in the form of rides—including a bona fide roller coaster, Ferris wheel, and double-decker carousel along with bouncy, swingy, and spinny diversions. Other attractions include a 50,000-gallon aquarium with more than 100 different species of tropical fish, a marvelous meandering train, and an interactive stingray reef.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Two distinctly different yet remarkably significant historical attractions lie adjacent to each other near the Houston Ship Channel 20 miles east of the city. The stories of valiant warriors in disparate settings fighting for freedom come alive at the San Jacinto Battleground and the Battleship Texas (3523 Hwy. 134, 281/479-2431, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, battleground museum free, observation deck $6 adults, $5.50 seniors, $4.50 children ages 11 and under; battleship tours $12 ages 12-64, $6 seniors, $3 children ages 5-11).
Perhaps most significant to Texas history is the San Jacinto Battleground site, with its remarkable 570-foot-tall monument (15 feet taller than the Washington Monument) commemorating Texas’s victory in its fight for independence. The 1,200-acre site and its adjoining San Jacinto Museum of History preserve and interpret the legendary battleground where Texas Army troops under Gen. Sam Houston defeated the Mexican Army in an 18-minute battle on April 21, 1836. The magnificent monument—topped by a 34-foot star symbolizing the Lone Star Republic—is dedicated to the “Heroes of the Battle of San Jacinto and all others who contributed to the independence of Texas.”
The San Jacinto Monument honors Texas’s fight for independence.
The ground level houses the San Jacinto Museum of History, containing nearly 400,000 objects, documents, and books spanning 400 years of Texas history. The display case dedicated to Sam Houston is a highlight, containing personal artifacts and inspiring writings. Be sure to watch the fascinating 30-minute movie Texas Forever! The site’s highlight is the observation deck, a 490-foot-tall vantage point offering stunning sweeping views of the battlefield, ship channel, reflecting pool, and surrounding scenery. Don’t be discouraged by the 1930s-era elevator, it’s a quick ride to the top, where you’ll be rewarded with a vantage point many people don’t get to experience.
Just across the street lies an important piece of the state’s history: the Battleship Texas. This impressive 1911 vessel is unique—it’s the only remaining battleship to serve in both World Wars I and II and was the first U.S. battleship to mount anti-aircraft guns and launch an aircraft.
The Battleship Texas served in both World Wars.
The mighty ship’s multiple decks reveal what life was like for the crew, who bravely defended the Stars and Stripes during crucial combat situations while enduring overcrowded conditions. The elaborate system of massive guns remains impressive, and visitors can occupy one of the artillery seats to get a feel for the challenging precision required to operate the heavy machinery. Head below deck to see the cramped cots, officers’ quarters, galley, engine room, medical facilities, and other slices of life to get a true appreciation for the distinguished service provided by the men of the Texas.
Since the ship has been moored at the site (in the brackish water of the Houston Ship Channel) since 1948, it has experienced significant weakening in its hull. The approval of a bond package included funds for dry-berthing the ship, which hasn’t always gone as smoothly as expected. Plans are still in the works for a restoration, as soon as enough funds are secured.
For a step back in time and away from the urban pace, consider a jaunt to George Ranch Historical Park (10215 FM 762, Richmond, 281/343-0218, www.georgeranch.org, Tues.-Sat. 9am-5pm, $10 adults, $9 seniors, $5 students ages 5-15). About 30 miles southwest of downtown near the community of Richmond, the site showcases four generations of family members on a 484-acre living-history site. Members of the namesake George family were the last descendants of the site’s original settlers, who began ranching operations here in the 1820s.
Visitors discover what life was like for Texans on a working cattle ranch through exhibits and displays at the pioneer farmstead, an 1890s Victorian mansion, and a 1930s ranch house. The enormous ranch house and its nearby barns and working pens help sharpen the site’s focus on 1930s and 1940s ranching operations. Visitors should plan to devote a few hours to exploring this truly Texan locale, where they can attend daily demonstrations about tending to livestock (horses, pigs, chickens), participate in hands-on activities such as corn grinding and weaving, and help harvest seasonal crops. You can even watch honest-to-goodness cowhands roping cattle. If (when) it gets too hot outside, escape to the air-conditioned ranch house to see exhibits, photographs, and artifacts about pioneer and farming life on the George Ranch.
Houston is home to several professional sports franchises as well as myriad opportunities for year-round outdoor activities, including golfing, hiking, and biking. Pro sports teams are the big draw, especially since so many Houston residents are transplants from other parts of the country in search of opportunities to see their hometown heroes on the field. Natives have had reason to jump on the bandwagon for several sports, most notably the Texans football team’s recent postseason appearances.
Most big cities have a showcase central park offering an inviting natural oasis amid the harsh urban environs. Houston’s version is Hermann Park, just outside of downtown in the Museum District. Running a close second is Memorial Park, a haven for local hikers and bikers, as opposed to Hermann’s visiting strollers. The city operates dozens of neighborhood-oriented parks for families (visit www.houstontx.gov/parks to find one close to the part of town you’re visiting). For those in search of an outdoor experience near NASA, be sure to drop by the Armand Bayou Nature Center.
The huge green swath (for Houston) in the middle of most city maps is Hermann Park (6001 Fannin St., 713/524-5876, www.houstontx.gov). In the heart of the Museum District just southwest of downtown, Hermann Park is a 400-acre magnet for joggers, dog walkers, bikers, and families in search of some rare green space in a city known for its rampant development. Trails and trees are abundant here, as are the amenities and services, including a theater, golf course, and garden center. The park is filled with statues, too; look for monuments to Sam Houston, Mahatma Gandhi, and namesake George Hermann.
Hugging the northwest corner of the city’s inner loop is Memorial Park (6501 Memorial Dr., 713/845-1000, www.houstontx.gov). What sets Memorial Park apart from other parks in the city are its recreational facilities, primarily the hike and bike trails. Set on 1,400 acres formerly dedicated to World War I-era Camp Logan, Memorial Park is now a magnet for all varieties of athletes and exercisers (see Hiking and Biking entries for trail information). The park’s other recreational opportunities include a full-service tennis center, swimming pool, golf course, fitness center, baseball diamonds, a croquet field, and sand volleyball courts.
Farther outside of town but worth the 30-minute drive is Armand Bayou Nature Center (8500 Bay Area Blvd., Pasadena, 281/474-2551, www.abnc.org, Tues.-Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. noon-5pm, $4 adults, $2 seniors and students ages 4-12). Located near NASA on the west side of Galveston Bay, the nature center offers residents and visitors a chance to learn about native plant and animal species, hike on the discovery trails, or see the live animal displays featuring the likes of bison, hawks, and spiders. The main area of the park contains a boardwalk traversing the marshes and forests, and providing a glimpse of the beautiful bayou region of East Texas. The best way to experience this natural wonder is by boat—consider taking a tour on the Bayou Ranger pontoon boat or signing up for a guided canoe tour.
Despite a few national reports claiming Houston (and the South, in general) is one of the least-fit places in the nation, there are a large number of active residents interested in exercise and health. Many opt for a gym membership, since the city does not offer an abundance of hiking trails and coordinated recreational facilities.
The city’s most popular outdoor destination for exercisers is Buffalo Bayou, known more as a biking destination. For those interested in a slightly less-crowded area, head to the nearby Seymour Lieberman Exercise Trail in Memorial Park. The three-mile trail is popular with residents who have a daily workout routine and utilize the exercise stations and restrooms along the route. More-dedicated runners use the nearby asphalt timing track to work on speed and develop skills, while the Memorial Park Picnic Loop offers a smooth surface for in-line skaters, traditional roller skate enthusiasts, and hikers. Dogs are welcome and even encouraged at the park—canine drinking fountains are conveniently located at ground level along the jogging trails. Just remember to keep your pooch on a leash and to bring a doggie bag.
Those willing to go a few miles outside of town will be rewarded by the scenic, tree-filled Houston Arboretum & Nature Center (4501 Woodway Dr. 713/681-8433, www.houstonarboretum.org). The arboretum’s outer loop is a two-mile trail for longer-distance hikers who enjoy combining exercise with bird and wildlife viewing. Its lush natural setting helps hikers escape from the concrete cityscape. For a topographically diverse alternative, consider a trek on the R.A. Vines Trail, offering up close views of shallow wetlands, fish, and a boardwalk.
Cyclists enjoy the challenging terrain along the city’s Buffalo Bayou (1800 Allen Pkwy., 713/845-1000, www.buffalobayou.org), an urban greenbelt with the namesake waterway as its centerpiece. With the towering Houston skyline as a backdrop, the park draws bikers, joggers, art lovers, and walkers from across the city who relish its riverside trails and bustling activity. In addition to the smooth, wide trail system, the 124-acre park contains exercise stations, a recreation center, disc golf course, children’s playground, and popular dog recreation area. Public art abounds along the jogging trail, from stainless-steel objects representing tree roots on an overpass to the large stone-blocks-turned-sculpture that remain from the city’s demolished civic auditorium. Visit the park’s website to download PDFs of trail maps. The southwest section of adjacent Memorial Park contains color-coded trails with maps at the trailheads, and Infantry Woods provides an advanced trail for those with superior skills.
Houston’s Parks and Recreation Department (www.houstontx.gov) operates seven respectable municipal golf courses, a worthy city service in an urban environment that features year-round moderate temperatures and developers ready to capitalize on any available open space. Three of the most popular courses are located within the loop, drawing golfers and hackers to the links’ well-maintained grounds and affordable greens fees.
The gem of the downtown-area muni courses is Memorial Park Golf Course (1001 E. Memorial Loop Dr., 713/862-4033), a 600-acre oasis of rolling fairways and challenging greens. Originally constructed as a nine-hole sand green course for soldiers at Camp Logan (now Memorial Park), the links feature lush landscapes, putting and chipping greens, a golf museum, a contemporary clubhouse, and an always-packed driving range offering shade and lighting.
Adjacent to the city’s Museum District, Hermann Park Golf Course (2155 Cambridge St., 713/526-0077) is another natural escape from the surrounding urban scenery. Lengthy fairways, snug out-of-bounds, and occasional water hazards make Hermann a favorite among serious golfers, who appreciate the shade of the ancient oaks and steady surface of the Bermuda grass greens. While at the turn, be sure to order a hot dog or two from the clubhouse kitchen.
Farther south of town is Wortham Park Golf Course (7000 Capitol St., 713/928-4260), a former private course now operated by the city. The sportiest of the three downtown-area courses, Wortham Park features hilly terrain, tight turns, and several short par fours. The course also offers a practice green and bunker, a chipping green, and a full driving range.
Houston is a football town. Once home to the storied Houston Oilers football franchise (before they bolted for Tennessee and became the Titans), the city now hosts the NFL’s Houston Texans (832/667-2000, www.houstontexans.com). The Texans have become a formidable franchise that, regardless of their spot in the standings, continue to draw substantial crowds to see defensive end J. J. Watt (and the games) at NRG Stadium (1 NRG Pkwy.).
Sports fans are also drawn to the venerable (by this city’s standards) Houston Astros (713/259-8000, www.houston.astros.mlb.com). In 1965, the Astros became the primary occupants of the then-futuristic Astrodome, referred to as the Eighth Wonder of the World. Indeed, it was a sight to behold and an especially welcome respite from Houston’s horrendous humidity. The Astros assembled some worthy teams in the 1980s, most notably with hometown hero Nolan Ryan, and two decades later, they attained similar success with another local legend at the helm, Roger Clemens, and a powerhouse offense featuring the “Killer Bs”—Craig Biggio, Jeff Bagwell, and Lance Berkman. By this time, the Astros had fled the Eighth Wonder for the comfy confines of the downtown Minute Maid Park (501 Crawford St.), a classic urban ball field with a modern retractable roof.
The Houston Astros play at Minute Maid Park in downtown.
Basketball isn’t as big a draw in Texas as other sports, but the Houston Rockets (713/627-3865, www.nba.com/rockets) have always had a considerable following. Their successful 1990s teams, featuring top-notch talent such as Clyde “The Glide” Drexler and Hakeem “The Dream” Olajuwon, were the talk of the NBA during their glory years, when they won the NBA title in 1993 and ’94. The Rockets hold court at the downtown Toyota Center (1510 Polk St.).
The Urban Cowboy legend was born in Houston in the early 1980s, and in some parts of town, it’s never left. Visitors can get a good feel for the true (and tired) honky-tonks by sampling a few of the city’s many nightlife options. Houston has a healthy blues scene, and the downtown bars and dance clubs are reminders of the city’s cosmopolitan culture. The performing arts in Houston are truly befitting of the nation’s fourth-largest city, particularly its internationally renowned opera and ballet companies and spectacular symphony.
Covering the nightlife scene in the country’s fourth-largest city is a daunting task, especially given the fluid nature of clubs. Instead of attempting to capture the trend-of-the-moment venue (which will likely change in style or name within a year), the following listings focus on established sites that have proven their venerability by keeping the drinks and good times flowin’ while the trends come and go.
Somewhat surprisingly, there are pockets of downtown Houston that are completely quiet at night, and the urban core doesn’t tend to spawn scenes. Still, visitors can find many notable clubs that boast a distinctive vibe and treat visitors to a uniquely Houston experience.
One of the more interesting spots in town to grab a cocktail is Dean’s Credit Clothing (314 Main St., 713/227-3326, www.deansdowntown.com, daily 5pm-2am). Nope, that’s not a misprint. Housed inside a historic downtown 1930s clothing store, Dean’s strives to maintain as much of its early charm as possible. Grab a spot at the low-lit bar, or sink into one of the comfy vintage couches. Original features include the ornate flooring and exposed bricks from the 1893 building. The craft cocktails are strong and well-made, with clever names referencing old-timey department stores (Woolworth’s, Penney’s, etc.). On Sunday nights, Dean’s usually hosts an acoustic lounge act or small jazz combo.
Dean’s Credit Clothing is a venerable downtown bar.
The energy picks up a couple doors down at the hipper Nightingale Room (308 Main St., 832/968-3370, www.nightingaleroom.com, Tues.-Sat., 4pm-2am). Cocktails are a major draw here (the bourbon-based Godfather is a big hit). So is the booming sound system, evident when the 2nd-floor DJ helms the turntables and spins hip-hop records from the impressive collection of vinyl stored behind the bar.
nighttime on Main Street in downtown Houston
A few blocks away is the low-key and comfy Warren’s Inn (307 Travis St., 713/247-9207, Mon-Fri. 11am-2am, Sat. noon-2am, Sun. 2pm-2am). A longtime downtown lounge, Warren’s is a dark and mellow place where the regulars look like they’ve occupied their spots at the bar for decades. Fortunately, the happy hour prices are similarly retro, with cans of brew offered for $2-3. Be sure to check out the jukebox with appropriate soundtrack music from the 1940s to 1960s.
Those not as interested in keeping up with the latest trends or worrying about specifically appropriate footwear should head to La Carafe (813 Congress St., 713/229-9399, daily 1pm-2am). Known for its laid-back vibe and legendary jukebox, La Carafe is in a historic brick building that exudes character. Order some wine, punch in a little Otis Redding on the jukebox, and settle in for a long and cozy evening.
Transcending its former trendy reputation is Max’s Wine Dive (4720 Washington Ave., 713/880-8737, www.maxswinedive.com, Mon.-Thurs. 11am-midnight, Fri.-Sat. 10am-2am, Sun. 10am-midnight), just south of The Heights. “Dive” is a misnomer, since the dimly lit, comfortable locale caters to an upscale clientele, but the pairings of drink and food are down ’n’ dirty. You never realized a glass of red wine would complement a burger so well. Or a flute of champagne pairs perfectly with fried chicken. More than 150 wines are available by the glass or bottle, and many are available to go. An added bonus: Most of the beverages and food are Texas organic products.
For those who’d rather dress down than up, The Heights is especially accommodating. The best place to soak up a true Lone Star State experience is Alice’s Tall Texan (4904 N. Main St., 713/862-0141, Sun.-Fri. 10am-midnight, Sat. 11 am-1am). Alice’s is a true no-frills experience (cafeteria-style seating in a modest brick building), with friendly folks chatting above the din of classic jukebox country music and clinking bottles of cheap beer. And speaking of cheap, for just $2.50 you can order a giant goblet of Texas draft beer (Lone Star or Shiner) accompanied by a $1 bag of popcorn. Another dive-ish option is Big Star Bar (1005 W. 19th St., 281/501-9560, www.bigstarbar.com, daily 4pm-2am). Dimly lit with a classic checkerboard floor, Big Star is a comfy place to kick back with a cheap bottle of beer and shoot a few rounds of pool while listening to Johnny Cash. An outdoor patio (with chain-link fence) offers a friendly place to chat and hangout, and the vintage furniture and picnic tables were designed with chillin’ in mind.
Just north of The Heights in Garden Oaks/Oak Forest (affectionately known by locals as GOOF) is the welcoming Petrol Station (985 Wakefield Dr., 713/957-2875, Mon. 5pm-midnight, Tues.-Fri. 2pm-midnight, Sat. noon-1am, Sun. noon-10pm). Petrol Station is known for its burgers, but it also deserves a reputation for its impressive selection of local beers. But back to the burgers—these are some of the heartiest, tastiest options in town. Choose from lamb, beef, or veggie, and be sure to top it with flavorful mushrooms and grilled onions.
For a reliable cocktail and way-above-average bar food, check out the West End (5320 Westheimer Rd., 713/590-0616, www.westend-houston.com, Mon.-Fri. 3pm-2am, Sat.-Sun. 11am-2am). The West End is an ideal place for those looking to take things up a notch from typical bar fare. The margaritas are a bit stronger with higher-quality ingredients, and the burgers and wings are extra flavorful.
For those in search of a classic British-style pub, head to Richmond Arms (5920 Richmond Ave., 713/784-7722, www.richmondarmsonline.com, daily 11am-2am). It’s an ideal place to watch a soccer game on TV, and you can easily identify fellow fans at the outdoor picnic tables painted with team/country flags. Not surprisingly, there are plenty of fine British ales on tap, and the food is surprisingly good for a British-themed establishment.
One of the most colorful and crazy places to spend a late night is Poison Girl (1641 Westheimer Rd., 713/527-9929, daily 4pm-2am). The first thing you’ll notice are the bright pink walls; the next will be the incredible selection of bourbons and pinball machines. Even if you’re not a bourbon fan, it’s worth chatting up the bartender to help them pick your, um, poison. Be sure to spend some time on the back patio, where you’ll be in the presence of a fun-lovin’ crowd and the largest statue of the Kool-Aid Man you’ll ever see (or attempt to climb).
For the craft-beer-lovin’ crowd, it doesn’t get much better than S Hay Merchant (1100 Westheimer Rd., 713/528-9805, www.haymerchant.com, Mon.-Fri. 3pm-2am, Sat.-Sun. 11am-2am). Adjoining the locally legendary restaurant Underbelly (and sharing the same award-winning chef), Hay Merchant is a lower-key version of its fancy sibling. Instead of high-dollar plates and wines, there are affordable sandwiches and a rotating variety of amazing beers. Most of the bartenders will helpfully suggest brews based on specific preferences, and the food is always a step above normal bar fare. The Korean fried-chicken sandwich is a perfect example of a comfort food taken to the next level with a slightly spicy gochujang sauce and crispy exterior.
Far more refined is the cocktail-minded Anvil Bar & Refuge (1424 Westheimer Rd., 713/523-1622, www.anvilhouston.com, daily 4pm-2am). This is a place for people who take their booze seriously, and judging by the steady crowds Anvil has drawn for several years, many Houstonians do. Though the bartenders shun the term “mixologists,” they’re absolutely deft at concocting a perfect cocktail. One of the bar’s most popular drinks is the Nitro Cuba Libre, the fanciest rum and Coke you’ll ever experience (dispensed via a nitrogen tap). Or consider ordering a First Growth, made with gin, pineapple juice, elderflower, and sage.
Many Houston residents associate pub crawls with West University’s Rice Village area, where a collection of English-style brewpubs has kept nearby university students out of libraries for decades. The following locales are ideal spots for grabbing a freshly poured pint, finding the jukebox of your dreams, and soaking up the freewheeling college scene: The Ginger Man (5607 Morningside Dr., 713/526-2770, www.gingermanpub.com, Mon.-Fri. 2pm-2am, Sat.-Sun. 1pm-2am) and nearby 55 Restaurant and Bar (5510 Morningside Dr., 713/526-1669, Mon.-Fri. 3pm-2am, Sat.-Sun. 11am-2am).
Houston has perhaps the largest gay scene in the South, and most of it is centered on the city’s Montrose district west of downtown. This is where most of the gay bars are, drawing all walks of life, from the understated to the overblown. One of the newer clubs on the scene is JR’s (808 Pacific St., 713/521-2519, www.jrsbarandgrill.com), drawing a semiprofessional crowd for drink specials, karaoke, and male dancers. Parking is hard to come by, so consider using the valet service across the street. Next door is the popular South Beach (810 Pacific St., 713/521-0107, www.southbeachthenightclub.com, daily 1pm-2am), a hot spot for dancing. South Beach attracts a primarily gay clientele, but everyone is welcome on the dance floor, where suspended jets spray liquid ice on the crowd to keep things cool. Nearby is Ripcord (715 Fairview St, 713/521-2792, daily 1pm-2am). Pool is a popular draw here, as are the cheap drinks.
Mention blues towns and most people think of Memphis or Chicago, but Houston definitely belongs in the mix. It has a long-standing tradition of serving up swampy bayou blues, and some of the state’s grittiest and most soulful players have emerged from the city’s downtown African American neighborhoods.
The Continental Club (3700 Main St., 713/529-9899, www.continentalclub.com, Mon. and Wed.-Sat. 8pm-2am) doesn’t stage blues exclusively—roots and alternative rock acts are often on the bill—but the local and touring blues bands that play here are typically the best around. An offshoot of the legendary Austin venue, Houston’s version of The Continental is appropriately more sprawling but still dedicated to offering some of the most soulful music in Bayou City.
Consistently topping Houston’s annual “best blues club” lists is West University’s The Big Easy Social and Pleasure Club (5731 Kirby Dr., 713/523-9999, www.thebigeasyblues.com, daily 8pm-2am). The quality musicianship waiting inside is the epitome of integrity. Weekends are set aside for top-notch touring acts and Houston’s premier local blues bands, while weeknights offer themes like open jams and dance parties. Sunday night zydeco is another highlight. Another local favorite is The Shakespeare Pub (14129 Memorial Dr., 281/497-4625, www.shakespearepub.net, daily 5pm-2am). Locals rule the stage here, including luminaries such as John McVey, Eugene Moody, and Texas Johnny Brown. If you get a chance, drop by at dinnertime on Sunday for Sparetime Murray’s weekly “early blues jam.”
Houston is the true home of the Urban Cowboy, so grab those boots if you’re fixin’ to head out for some two-steppin’ at one of these fine dance halls. Appealing to the masses are the city’s big-box country music venues. Near the Galleria among the trendy upscale dance clubs is the refreshingly unhip Firehouse Saloon (5930 Southwest Freeway, 713/977-1962, www.firehousesaloon.com, Fri.-Sun. 5pm-midnight). There’s some flashiness here—big ol’ shiny belt buckles, fancy light machines, Vegas-style video games—but the crowd is genuinely friendly. Although cover bands take the stage most nights, you’ll find the occasional worthy local band looking to catch their big break.
For an overwhelming dose of Lone Star State culture, drop by the Big Texas Dance Hall and Saloon (803 E. NASA Blvd., 281/461-4400, www.bigtexassaloon.com, Wed.-Sat. 7pm-2am). It’s a bit hokey—the decor is pseudo-rustic with cacti and Western “artifacts”—but the scene is vibrant, especially for singles. Live music is the big draw on Thursday, when regional acts get boots scootin’, but DJs fill the dance floor most weekends.
For those more interested in drinking and listening to country music (without dancing), work up an appetite and drop by Goode’s Armadillo Palace (5015 Kirby Ave., 713/526-9700, www.thearmadillopalace.com, Tues.-Thurs. 11am-11pm, Fri. 11am-2am, Sat. 4pm-2am). Located among the cluster of Goode Company barbecue and Texas restaurants, the Armadillo has a huge bar in the middle and tiny stage in the corner. Fortunately, the pure honky-tonk sounds coming from the bands are huge enough to fill the venue and even get a few people two-stepping in the limited space near the stage.
One of the many benefits of being a music fan in a big city is access to quality jazz clubs. Houston is a major player on the jazz circuit, and it’s a hotbed for some of the genre’s rising stars. The stalwart on the scene is Sambuca (909 Texas Ave., 713/224-5299, www.sambucarestaurant.com, Mon.-Wed. 11am-11pm, Thurs. 11am-midnight, Fri. 11am-1am, Sat. 4pm-1am, Sun. 4pm-11pm). In the stunning historic Rice Hotel, Sambuca is a jazz fan’s dream—a classy downtown venue offering nightly performances from local and national performers like Norma Zenteno, Tianna Hall, and The McClanahans. Accompany your ideal evening with a juicy steak from the acclaimed restaurant and a post-meal or set-break visit to the cigar room.
For a truly intimate experience, visit Cezanne (4100 Montrose Blvd., 713/522-9621, www.cezannejazz.com, Fri.-Sat. 9pm-midnight), a 40-seat venue in the trendy Montrose district. Cezanne is considered Houston’s premier jazz club, which is nice for the aficionados who get a chance to sit merely feet away from national acts but unfortunate for the hundreds or even thousands of other music lovers who’d like to see the show. Regardless, every seat in this cozy spot is a good one, and you’ll hear, see, and feel every note being played. Check the website for favorites such as Joshua Redman, Randy Brecker, and Pamela York.
Since Houston is such a business- and convention-oriented city, visitors often find themselves in town for a few days in search of familiar rock acts or with an expense account to afford some pricey tickets. Virtually every touring act makes a stop in Houston, so out-of-towners also have an opportunity to catch shows that may not make it to their home turf until the second or third leg of the tour. These folks will likely want to browse the online calendar for the downtown entertainment complex Bayou Place (500 Texas St., 713/227-0957, www.bayouplace.com).
If you still want to rock but prefer to roll away from the hassle of downtown, head to the classic Houston venue Fitzgerald’s (2706 White Oak Dr., 713/862-3838, www.fitzlivemusic.com). Housed in an enormous historic Polish dance hall, Fitz’s features indie rock acts, classic Americana groups, and comfy local bands. The all-ages policy can rub some old-timers the wrong way, but they can always escape to the spacious back patio for a fresh breath of smoky air. Also housed in a historical venue is the folky Anderson Fair (2007 Grant St., 832/767-2785, www.andersonfair.net). This tucked-away club in the Montrose area has been hosting up-and-coming folk and roots rock acts for decades and continues to stage some of Texas’s most popular Americana acts. Note: Anderson Fair is only open on weekends.
A big-time city deserves a big-time opera company, and Houston has one in the Houston Grand Opera (713/228-6737, www.houstongrandopera.org). Performances are held at the downtown Wortham Theater Center (501 Texas Ave., 832/487-7000, www.houstonfirsttheaters.com/wortham-center), and the opera is considered one of the city’s cultural crown jewels. It’s the only opera company on the planet to win a Tony, two Emmys, and two Grammy awards, and it has a reputation for commissioning and performing new works, with dozens of world premieres in more than 50 years. The company tours extensively, bringing productions to Europe, Japan, and Egypt, and on the home front, it’s been lauded for its accessibility (tickets for some shows start at $15, and the casual dress series is popular among the younger crowd).
Another world-class performing arts company is the Houston Ballet (601 Preston St., 713/523-6300, www.houstonballet.org). Also utilizing the beautiful Wortham Theater Center, the ballet has developed a national reputation for making stars of principal dancers and staging contemporary, edgy ballets. In recent years, the company has been an important diplomat for the city by taking its impressive show on the road to China, London, Canada, and Washington, D.C.’s Kennedy Center.
Also highly respected in the city’s performing arts scene is the Houston Symphony (713/224-4240, www.houstonsymphony.org). The symphony has been impressing audiences at the magnificent downtown Jones Hall (615 Louisiana St.) since 1966, and it currently performs more than 170 concerts attended by nearly 350,000 people annually. Shows include a classical season, pops series, Messiah performances at Christmas, and family concerts. In the summer, the symphony performs outdoor shows and stages children’s performances throughout the region.
Houston boasts several high-quality theater companies, but two consistently emerge as the top of the playbill. The Alley Theatre (615 Texas Ave., 713/220-5700, www.alleytheatre.org) stages its productions in a facility that’s a sight to behold—a Brutalist fortress in the heart of downtown separated into two stages. The Alley is known and respected throughout Houston for its ability to embrace the old and the new. Its classic and contemporary performances consistently draw wide audiences. Also drawing rave reviews is the Ensemble Theatre (3535 Main St., 713/520-0055, www.ensemblehouston.org). Billed as the largest African American professional theater company in the country with its own productions and facility, the Ensemble regularly stages acclaimed dramas, comedies, and musicals for enthusiastic crowds. The company also runs an educational touring program and a popular summer training program for youth.
the famous Alley Theatre in downtown Houston
Each year in mid-January, the Antioch Missionary Baptist Church of Christ is a gathering site for the Gardere Martin Luther King Jr. Oratory Competition (500 Clay St., 713/867-3286, www.gardere.com). Sponsored by the Gardere law firm for nearly two decades, the event is a highly anticipated contest for elementary school students, who research, write, and deliver inspiring speeches dedicated to Dr. King’s legacy. The competition also includes a spirited performance by the Salvation Army Choir. In mid-February, the Texas Home and Garden Show (8400 Kirby Dr., 800/654-1480, www.texashomeandgarden.com) offers interactive displays and more than 1,500 exhibitors at the Reliant Center to help Houstonians and visitors get their spring gardening plans growing.
Every March, the University of Texas Health Science Center presents the popular Brain Night for Kids (7000 Fannin St., 713/521-1515, www.med.uth.edu), featuring presentations about how the brain works, a gross yet fascinating dissection of a sheep’s brain, an informative video, and other brainy activities. In April, don’t miss the Bayou City Cajun Fest (7979 N. Eldridge Pkwy., 281/890-5500, www.tradersvillage.com) at Traders Village. Patrons enjoy crawfish, po-boys, zydeco bands, and all kinds of Cajun culture. Another popular annual springtime event is the AsiaFest (11903 Bellaire Blvd., 713/784-1112, www.apaha.org), featuring an impressive parade, food booths, and cultural activities at the Alief Community Park in southwest Houston each May.
It gets downright sweltering in Houston during the summer months, but that doesn’t deter locals from celebrating. One of the city’s best-known annual events is Juneteenth (7800 Airport Blvd., 713/558-2600, www.houstonculture.org), commemorating the day in June that enslaved Texans learned about their freedom via the Emancipation Proclamation. Juneteenth activities include national gospel, blues, and jazz acts taking the stage at Hermann Park, along with plenty of good eats and revelry. September is still the height of the summer in Houston, and residents celebrate by enjoying hot jazz at the Houston International Jazz Festival (520 Texas Ave., 713/839-7000, www.jazzeducation.org). Let the smooth sounds of local and nationally known jazz artists provide a cool breeze to beat the September heat. The event is held annually at the Bayou Music Center.
Get your ghoul on with the city’s annual Ghost Tour (www.houstonghosttour.com) throughout October. Hauntees gather in the scary suburb of Spring, where they can get freaked out by various urban legends and authentic historical death scenes. Speaking of deceased, locals and visitors descend en masse on downtown neighborhoods on November 2 as part of the Dia de los Muertos Festival (4912 Main St., 713/343-0218, www.hispanichouston.com). This important Latin American cultural event includes parades and festivals honoring the former lives of family and friends. In early December, City Hall becomes the gathering place for Chanukah Fest (901 Bagby St., 713/774-0300, www.chabadoutreach.org). The Chabad Lubavitch Outreach of Houston sponsors this annual event featuring traditional food, live music, craft demonstrations, and holiday activities.
Mention the words “shopping” and “Houston,” and most people will immediately think of the Galleria, an (appropriately) sprawling community unto itself on the western edge of the city’s outer loop. It’s a glassy, bustling, commercial destination that inspires some while intimidating others. Fortunately, there are plenty of shopping options for all types, from exclusive high-end (Galleria) to funky bargain-basement (The Heights). Despite being associated with the Urban Cowboy mystique, Houston does not have an overabundance of specialty shops with Western gear, though you’ll likely find more flashy rhinestone-esque clothing items here than anywhere else in Texas (except Dallas).
One of the most popular downtown shopping destinations is the pleasantly modest Shops at Houston Center (1200 McKinney St., 713/759-1442, www.shopsathc.com, hours vary by location), comprised of nearly 50 specialty stores and boutiques beneath a canopy-style atrium. Look for jewelry, home decor items, and a quick bite to eat as you stroll the two-block complex among meandering visitors and beelining professionals. The shops are connected to Houston’s bizarre yet fascinating Downtown Tunnels (713/650-3022, tour info at 713/222-9255, www.downtownhouston.org), a six-mile system of air-conditioned subterranean walkways that links dozens of downtown buildings.
Shopping destinations in The Heights reflect the neighborhood’s funky and trendy vibe. A good example is Casa Ramirez (241 W. 19th St., 713/880-2420). Featuring Latin American folk art and clothing items, Casa Ramirez offers customers a colorful view of traditional Latin American wares, from furniture to handbags to paintings. Be sure to look for Mr. or Mrs. Ramirez, who will gladly provide suggestions and explain stories behind the shop’s many interesting items.
If you’re interested in the culture (and animals) of rural America, head straight to Wabash Antiques and Feedstore (4537 N. Shepherd Dr., 713/863-8322, www.wabashfeed.com). Although many Houstonians come here for their high-end pet food, others visit just to soak up the sounds and sights associated with farms, including antique equipment, lawn art, and plenty of hens, turkeys, kittens, and rabbits.
If you’re in search of a lil’ ol’ Texas-style fashion boutique, then come on down to Hello Lucky (1025 Studewood St., 713/864-3556, www.hellolucky.com). Located in a small historic home, Hello Lucky is filled with Texas-themed clothing and knickknacks. Featured items include jewelry, T-shirts, tote bags, and accessories (like gold armadillo cufflinks).
One of the city’s most popular tourist and shopping destinations is the colossal Galleria (5085 Westheimer Rd., 713/622-0663, www.galleriahouston.com). This city within a city—the fourth-largest mall in the country—draws more than 30 million visitors annually. Noted for its remarkable glass atriums and suspended balconies, the Galleria contains a popular ice-skating rink, two high-rise hotels, and nearly 400 shops, including top-notch retailers such as Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Ave., Neiman Marcus, Cartier, Gucci, and Tiffany & Co. The best time to experience the Galleria is Saturday afternoon. It’s an absolute madhouse, and you probably won’t get much shopping done, but the people watching is the best the city has to offer. Grab a latte and keep an eye out for the girls in flashy gowns celebrating their Quinceañeras (a Mexican American rite of passage dedicated to a girl’s 15th birthday).
Aside from the Galleria, one of Houston’s most popular and venerable shopping destinations is Rice Village (Rice Blvd. and Kirby Dr. just west of Rice University, 713/302-8918, www.ricevillagedistrict.com). This 16-block complex has been a favorite place for bargain hunting, browsing, and people watching since the 1930s. The Village features scores of independent shops and eclectic boutiques along with local restaurants and services, some in historic homes, others in modest 1950s strip centers.
For those who enjoy critiquing a city’s cultural scene via its independent bookstores while sipping on a latte, head directly to Brazos Bookstore (2421 Bissonnet St., 713/523-0701, www.brazosbookstore.com). Fiercely loved by local book people (it was rescued from closure by a group of concerned citizens in 2006), Brazos Bookstore is an ideal place to spend an afternoon out of the heat by browsing, reading, and chatting with the knowledgeable and friendly staff.
An eclectic mix of Asian shops and restaurants awaits on Harwin Drive, roughly between Gessner and Fondren Streets. The area offers an epic mash-up of typical American suburban sprawl (strip malls, gaudy signs) and cultural diversity (Thai, Pakistani, Indian, and Chinese vendors, authentic eateries). Plan to spend an afternoon browsing for unexpected gems and bargain clothes, accessories, furniture, and knickknacks. Just a couple miles west on Harwin is Chinatown, a concentrated collection of Chinese establishments, including a mall with bookstores, music, gifts, and cooking items.
Houston has more than 11,000 restaurants (that’s not a misprint). Over the past few years, the city’s culinary scene has drawn the attention of national food critics and restaurateurs, regularly earning high marks (or even top spots) for best national “foodie destination” or restaurant. It helps that people here love eating out, so the array of options can be overwhelming, from lowly fast food to lofty haute cuisine. Visitors and residents benefit from the city’s enormous international population, offering authentic fare from all corners of the globe, including specific regional styles not found in the state’s midsize cities. This being Texas, the options also include a fair number of home-grown varieties, including some of the state’s finest barbecue, Tex-Mex, and good ol’ fashioned down-home Southern cookin’. Keep in mind, the following suggestions aren’t meant to represent current trends or up-to-the-minute changes in Houston’s always-evolving culinary scene. These are examples of Houston’s impressive variety of restaurants, with a heavy dose of long-standing eateries that have proven their quality and value by standing the test of time.
A steak house doesn’t have to be stodgy. The scene is downright comfortable at III Forks (1201 Fannin St., 713/658-9457, www.3forks.com, Mon.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri. 11am-11pm, Sat. 4pm-11pm, $15-45). Sumptuous steaks take center stage here, with featured cuts including the double-cut strip, filet mignon, and porterhouse. The meat is perfectly prepared, and the sides (they cost extra but are well worth it) are ideal accompaniments, including the popular spinach and six-cheese potatoes. If possible, try to save some room for the Texas pecan cake.
For a well-heeled yet nontraditionally bedecked downtown steak house, head to Vic & Anthony’s (1510 Texas St., 713/228-1111, www.vicandanthonys.com, Mon.-Fri. 11am-10pm, Sat.-Sun. 5pm-10pm, $17-44). Chic, minimalist, and tightly packed, Vic & Anthony’s wisely sticks with the basics—a simple menu offers high-quality cuts of meat and a few seafood and chicken options. The salads and appetizers here are outstanding (the pear salad and oysters, in particular), and the wine selection is impressive, if a bit pricey. The steaks are enormous, and the bone-in rib eye is considered among the best in town.
Houston is one of the few places in the country that serves authentic Cajun cuisine. The Bayou City has direct access to the seafood, sauces, spices, and swamps—the style’s integral ingredients. It doesn’t get much better than the legendary New Orleans family establishment Brennan’s (3300 Smith St., 713/522-9711, www.brennanshouston.com, Sun.-Fri. 11am-2pm and 5pm-10pm, Sat. 5pm-10pm, $12-39). In a historic brick mansion, Brennan’s offers classic Louisiana flavors such as étouffée, lump crab cakes, and pecan-crusted amberjack. The breakfasts at Brennan’s are legendary, and the eggs and delectable sauces taste even better paired with live jazz music during the weekend New Orleans Jazz Brunch. Less formal is the popular downtown lunch chain Treebeard’s (several locations, including 315 Travis St., 713/228-2622, www.treebeards.com, Mon-Fri. 11am-2:30pm, $8-14). All the Creole classics are here—shrimp étouffée, jambalaya, gumbo, and a hearty dose of red beans and rice. Be sure to order a side of jalapeño cornbread, and save room for the bread pudding with whiskey sauce. The only drawback: Treebeard’s isn’t open on weekends or for dinner.
More traditional in nature yet still somewhat adventurous with its flavor combinations is 17 (1117 Prairie St., 832/200-8888, daily 6:30am-2pm and 5:30pm-10pm, $13-36), located in the historic Sam Houston Hotel. Don’t let the colorful “light wall” in the back room distract you from the tasty food on the table, including a delectably creamy beet soup (served cold), a refreshing option on a traditional humid evening. For meat lovers, the deconstructed beef Wellington is surprisingly good (more meaty goodness than fluffy pastry).
The first thing you’ll hear about when anyone mentions The Breakfast Klub (3711 Travis St., 713/528-8561, www.thebreakfastklub.com, Mon.-Fri. 7am-2pm, Sat.-Sun. 8am-2pm, $9-22) is the long line. The next thing you’ll hear about is its famous chicken and waffles. And that it’s absolutely worth waiting up to an hour to experience this dish (and most others) on the menu. As for the line, it moves fairly quickly, and is far shorter the earlier you arrive (plan for sometime before 9am). If you’re stuck waiting, however, you’ll be struck by the tremendous diversity of your fellow line-mates, offering a refreshing perspective of this international city with a love for good food. Speaking of: The chicken and waffles are absolutely worth ordering, with both items perfectly prepared (tender and flavorful centers surrounded by lightly crisped goodness). The “biskuits” and gravy are also flaky and flavorful, and serve as a delicious reward for a long wait in line.
This is Texas, after all. So a category devoted to crafty carnivores in one of the Lone Star State’s trendiest neighborhoods is certainly appropriate. Why not start with a doozy? Sammy’s Wild Game Grill (3715 Washington Ave., 713/868-1345, www.sammyswildgamegrill.com, daily 11am-10pm, $14-41) may look tame from the outside, but the selection of exotic meats inside is downright crazy. Consider this wild pairing: a kangaroo burger with a side of python chili fries. Feeling less adventurous? There are elk tacos and pheasant hot dogs. Still too exotic? There’s always an Angus burger with sweet potato fries. Incidentally, all the wild game here is expertly prepared, with complementary seasonings that enhance the unique flavors found in these distinctive menu items.
For more traditional meat—and possibly Houston’s best barbecue—go directly to S Gatlin’s Barbecue (3510 Ella Blvd., 713/869-4227, www.gatlinsbbq.com, Mon.-Fri. 11am-3pm, 5-pm, Sat. 11am-9pm, $11-30). Though it’s in an uninspiring strip mall, Gatlin’s has been receiving rave reviews from Houston’s culinary professionals and fans of perfectly smoked meat. Even if you’re not a barbecue sandwich orderer, it’s worth sampling a Gatlin sandwich just to taste the amazing bun, a buttery toasted delight. The meat is the main draw, however, so be sure to experience the tender and succulent brisket or savory smoked sausage.
Although Uptown is lacking the historical charm of downtown, it can claim a few of the city’s most popular and esteemed steak houses. The favorite among locals is Pappas Brothers Steakhouse (5839 Westheimer Rd., 713/780-7352, www.pappasbros.com, Mon.-Thurs. 5pm-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 5pm-11pm, Sun. 5pm-9pm, $14-48). This is where steak lovers gather to get their carnivorous fix: perfectly marbled cuts of top-notch beef. The filets are Pappas Brothers’ specialty, and the somewhat-lofty prices (upper $40s) instead become a wise investment once you’re savoring each tender bite. The sides are also top-notch; suggested options include potatoes au gratin and asparagus.
Just down the street is another tremendous steak house, albeit with an international flair. Chama Gaucha (5865 Westheimer Rd., 713/244-9500, www.chamagaucha.com, Mon.-Fri. 11:30am-2:30pm and 5pm-9:30pm, Sat. 4:30pm-10pm, Sun. noon-8:30pm, $13-44) is a Brazilian-style establishment, meaning the staff serves a plethora of meat options with sharp and shiny knives. The filet mignon and sirloin are excellent, but there are other styles to consider, such as the bacon-wrapped variety and a cut of lamb. A word of caution: Though the introductory salad bar may tempt you with its leafy goodness, colorful vegetables, and bread medallions, try not to overdo it at the expense of the magnificent meat.
One of the benefits of being in a cosmopolitan environment is the abundance of international cuisine in various formats. Houston’s Uptown area contains several noteworthy informal lunch venues, and the best among them serve savory Lebanese food. One of the favorites is Mary’z Lebanese Cuisine (5825 Richmond Ave., 832/251-1955, www.maryzcuisine.com, daily 11am-midnight, $7-17). It’s a tiny place, but the tastes are huge, especially in fresh-made favorites like kabobs, falafel, shawarma, and baba ghanoush. Complement your meal with a Lebanese beer like Almazo. At night, Mary’z becomes a hot spot for young adults who toke on hookahs and exchange phone numbers.
Locals can’t get enough of the classy Cafe Annie (1800 Post Oak Blvd., 713/840-1111, Mon.-Fri. 11:30am-10pm, Sat. 5pm-10:30pm, www.cafeanniehouston.com, $13-41). Elegance exudes from the decor and the dishes, starting with tantalizing appetizers such as goat cheese crepes and continuing with entrées like the cinnamon-roasted pheasant and cocoa-roasted chicken. Haute Texas cuisine is well represented in the cilantro-enhanced mussel soup and barbecued sweet potatoes. Reservations are highly recommended.
The enormous sandwich spot Kenny & Ziggy’s (2327 Post Oak Blvd., 713/871-8883, www.kennyandziggys.com, Mon.-Fri. 7am-9pm, Sat.-Sun. 8am-9pm, $13-33) is a true deli, unfortunately a rarity in Texas—this is the place northerners go to get a slice of home-style goodness. Not surprisingly, the corned beef and pastrami are favorites, especially piled high on Reubens and rye sandwiches. The portions are enormous, so consider splitting a plate or plan to arrive extremely hungry. Note: It’s worth saving some precious space for the potato salad and pickles.
Those looking for a traditional Mexican restaurant should head directly to Molina’s Cantina (7901 Westheimer Rd., 713/782-0861, www.molinascantina.com, Tues.-Sat. 11am-9:30pm, Sun.-Mon. 11am-9pm, $9-17) on the western edge of Uptown. A Houston institution since 1941, Molina’s is the ultimate destination for old-school Tex-Mex. The signature Mexico City Dinner captures it all: chili con queso, tamale, tostada, taco, and enchilada with requisite rice and beans.
It’s not often that Houston imports a trend from a “small town” like Austin. It happened in 2012 as a result of the Capital City’s culinary scene exploding onto the national level, fueled by the unparalleled Japanese restaurant Uchi. Much to Austin’s chagrin, Houston’s version of Uchi (904 Westheimer Rd., 713/522-4808, www.uchirestaurants.com, Sun.-Thurs. 5pm-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 5pm-11pm, $15-45, reservations strongly recommended) is just as good as the original, with Top Chef-winning Paul Qui helping to create exquisite flavor combinations that had somehow never been attempted. Before getting too far into your unprecedented culinary journey, order a bottle of wine and the fried brussels sprouts—the slightly smoky and caramelized flavors are perfect complements to the leafy green vegetables. And speaking of flavor combinations, the sushi rolls are a delight to behold with their seemingly disparate yet instantly perfect intertwined tastes. A few examples include the salmon and Asian pear or yellowfin tuna and oranges. The hamachi nabe is another wonderful dish, with tuna topped by a soy-based broth and an egg. Each of the uniquely and unexpectedly crafted dishes are expertly explained by the waitstaff, who politely suggest menu items and recommend dishes based on the level of adventure (and budget) of each individual diner. You’ll savor each bite and discuss the distinctive flavor combinations for hours (maybe weeks).
A small stretch of Westheimer Road near the intersection of Montrose Boulevard has become the epicenter of Houston’s foodie scene, and for good reason. In addition to the aforementioned Uchi, several Texas-minded restaurants are drawing national attention for their bold flavors and chefs. Chief among them is SUnderbelly (1100 Westheimer Rd., 713/528-9800, www.underbellyhouston.com, Mon.-Fri. 11am-3pm and 5pm-10pm, Sat. 5pm-11pm, $14-46, reservations strongly recommended). Helmed by visionary chef Chris Shepherd, who passionately champions regional produce and the idea of Creole representing Houston’s diverse cultural flavors, Underbelly is earning its accolades by offering consistently quality dishes. Although the menu changes daily, previous representative dishes include Korean braised goat with dumplings, a wonderfully savory meal brimming with rich flavors. Other beguiling options have included tilefish with okra, snapper with bok choy, and the bizarre-sounding yet fabulous-tasting vinegar pie with salt brittle.
Closer to the Rice University campus is Local Foods (2424 Dunstan Rd., 713/521-7800, www.houstonlocalfoods.com, daily 10am-8:30pm, $12-32). Contemporary, classy, and casual, Local Foods is an ideal spot to enjoy a long lunch in a welcoming environment. The restaurant is perhaps best known for its scrumptious Crunchy Chicken sandwich, a fresh and flavorful dish with a variety of complementary tastes (the pretzel bun is worth ordering on its own) and textures. Pair it with the clean-tasting lemongrass soup and the flavorful kale.
Houstonians go kinda berserk over Backstreet Café (1103 S. Shepherd Dr., 713/521-2239, www.backstreetcafe.net, Mon.-Fri. 11am-10pm, Sat. 10am-11pm, Sun. 10am-9pm, $11-28). This wildly popular two-story New American venue is revered for its crafty chef (Hugo Ortega of Hugo’s), who specializes in quality comfort food. Backstreet is particularly known for its “crusted” dishes, including mustard-crusted salmon and sesame-crusted shrimp. The most popular entrée is the meat loaf tower, an aptly named stack of seasoned meat, garlic mashed potatoes, sautéed spinach, and mushroom gravy. Backstreet breakfasts are also legendary, as is the Sunday jazz brunch (11am-3pm).
Also popular with the locals is S Benjy’s (2424 Dunstan Rd., 713/522-7602, www.benjys.com, Tues.-Thurs. 10:45am-3pm and 4pm-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 10:45am-3pm and 4pm-11pm, Sun.-Mon. 10:45am-3pm and 4pm-9pm, $12-30), a contemporary venue with outstanding food and service. Things change often here, from the artwork to the menu, keeping things fresh for the regulars and kitchen staff. Seafood is the specialty (smoked salmon, seasoned shrimp), but Benjy’s also serves comfort food with modern flair, including distinctive sandwiches and entrées such as the pecan- and pistachio-crusted chicken with mixed potato gratin. Locals flock to Benjy’s for brunch, and the Bloody Marys are some of the best in the city (they use wasabi instead of regular horseradish).
This part of town covers a lot of Mex-inspired ground, from Mexico City street food to retro Tex-Mex chic to traditional Latin American specialties. Garnering the most attention for its bold flavors (and building) is El Real Tex-Mex Cafe (1201 Westheimer Rd., 713/524-1201, www.elrealtexmex.com, Sun.-Wed. 11am-10pm, Thurs. 11am-11pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-midnight, $10-29). Housed in a former movie theater (you can’t miss the enormous sign and marquee), El Real is a flavorful culinary venture organized by one of Houston’s most-respected chefs and a food writer. The result is a stunning collection of traditionally inspired Tex-Mex dishes, derived from extensive research and attention to authentic recipes and ingredients. Start your meal with a tasty prickly pear margarita while enjoying the free chips and salsa. Save enough room for the main event, including popular options like the Tin Can Tacos (perfectly seasoned meats encased in freshly made tortillas) and the Jefferson Plate (gooey cheese enchiladas with a crispy beef taco and bean chalupa). Enhance the wonderful flavors by adding a fried egg on top. Or an extra dose of hearty chili. An added bonus: Throughout your meal, you’ll be treated to an old-school Western movie on the big screen above.
Many locals believe a visit to this part of town is incomplete without a meal at the tremendous S Hugo’s (1600 Westheimer Rd., 713/524-7744, www.hugosrestaurant.net, Mon.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-11pm, Sun. 10am-9pm, $14-36). This open-air, chic hacienda serves trendy Mexican dishes sizzling with sabor (flavor). Start with Hugo’s signature velvety margarita, paired with a tantalizing appetizer such as the squash-blossom quesadillas or one of four varieties of ceviche. Entrées range from savory pork carnitas to tender snapper Veracruzana. Desserts are legendary at Hugo’s, especially the options containing freshly roasted and ground cocoa beans (flan, Mexican hot chocolate).
Montrose residents can’t seem to get enough risotto; fortunately, they (and visitors to their trendy neighborhood) have several worthy Italian restaurant options to satisfy their craving. Chief among them is Divino Italian Restaurant (1830 W. Alabama St., 713/807-1123, www.divinoitalian.com, Tues.-Thurs. 5:30pm-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 5:30pm-10:30pm, $14-46). The words most often used to describe Divino are “fresh,” “authentic,” and “homemade.” Not a bad trio. Locals love the Parma Style risotto, though the Boar Sausage style is also highly commendable. In-house pasta specialties include the Merlin’s Papardelle (especially for mushroom lovers). Any of the seasonal seafood dishes will be consistently excellent.
Another notable destination is DaMarco Cucina E Vino (1520 Westheimer Rd., 713/807-8857, www.damarcohouston.com, Tues.-Thurs. 11:30am-2pm and 5:30pm-10pm, Fri. 11:30am-2pm and 5:30pm-11pm, Sat. 5:30pm-11pm, $15-48). Quaint and fancy at the same time, DaMarco is known for its top-notch ingredients and the inventive flavor combos of renowned chef Marco Wiles. Diners are faced with the daunting task of choosing from Tuscan- to Texas-inspired dishes, including savory chianti-braised pork ribs, sea bass with grilled grapefruit, and roasted Texas quail. Other suggested menu items include the flavorful lamb chops (with an unbelievably tasty cumin-based yogurt sauce), a truffle risotto/pasta (opt for the pasta, since it’s served tableside), and the sweet corn lobster ravioli.
Houston has an abundance of amazing Vietnamese restaurants, so it’s good to know some long-standing local favorites are consistently serving quality food. Among them is Mai’s (3401 Milam St., 713/520-5300, www.maishouston.com, Mon.-Thurs. 11am-3am, Fri.-Sat. 11am-4am, $7-18), a mainstay among Houston’s Vietnamese community. Known almost as much for its late-night hours as its food, Mai’s draws enthusiastic revelers and foodies for dishes like tom xao thap cam (shrimp with mixed vegetables in a sumptuous sauce), bun bo hue (a flavorful soup with just the right amount of spices), and mi xao don (savory meats atop crispy noodles).
If you’re craving tasty Vietnamese food and only have a few bucks to spare, head directly to S Cali Sandwich (3030 Travis St., 713/520-0710, Mon.-Sat. 9am-9pm, $4-10). The banh mi sandwiches are unbelievably delicious, and they only cost $3. That’s not a misprint. Fresh veggies and hearty accompaniments (pork, tofu, chicken) are packed in a perfectly textured French bread roll. For those seeking a big bowl of flavor-filled soup, order a bun bo hue (warning: it’s definitely on the spicy side). Lunchtime is especially busy, so try to arrive before noon or after 1pm.
This part of town is brimming with Asian-inspired restaurants, but the Indian cuisine consistently draws diners from across the city for authentic high-quality flavor combos. At the top of most destination lists is Indika (516 Westheimer Rd., 713/524-2170, www.indikausa.com, Tues.-Fri. 11am-2pm and 6pm-10pm, Sat. 6pm-10:30pm, Sun. 10:30am-2:30pm and 6pm-10pm, $12-31). Prepared with the perfect amount of spicy goodness, dishes at Indika are bold and inventive with an extra touch of class not always found at other establishments. For example, Indika’s tandoori quail is a step up from the traditional chicken variety, and the curry-based seafood dishes are extraordinary. Top your meal off with an order of the pumpkin flan.
Most restaurants in this traditionally trendy part of town have impressive lunch menus, but a few places are noteworthy for their vibrant scenes. Among them is Goode Co. Barbeque (5109 Kirby Dr., 713/522-2530, www.goodecompany.com, daily 11am-10pm, $9-19), a funky spot that’s always packed with students, young professionals, and working-class carnivores. Goode’s specializes in classic ’cue—sausage, ribs, chicken, and the signature tender and juicy brisket—all topped with a succulent and smoky sauce. The side items are better than average, including a sweet coleslaw and bitey jalapeño cornbread.
On the opposite end of the cultural and social spectrum is the sleek Ra Sushi (3908 Westheimer Rd., 713/621-5800, www.rasushi.com, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-midnight, Fri.-Sat. 11am-1am, $6-19). Drawing a young crowd of busy singles, Ra is known for its stylish social scene as much as its hip sushi rolls. Popular items include the spicy lobster roll, scallop dynamite, and Viva Las Vegas roll with light tempura, crab, tuna, and lotus root. Consider ordering one of the seaweed salads or a more substantial item from the Pacific Rim-themed full menu. Stick around for the happy hour scene at Ra’s Flying Fish Lounge.
For all its Texas-worthy cosmopolitan charm, Houston remains primarily a business destination. And the city’s hotels reflect that. Sure, there are a few upscale independent options (Hotels ZaZa and Derek, in particular), but most lodging is located on a busy interstate highway with easy access to other major traffic arteries connecting business centers. As a result, rooms are easy to book throughout the year and mostly generic with their amenities.
That being said, visitors can take full advantage of this phenomenon (almost exclusively downtown) by booking upscale establishments at especially affordable rates on weekends (circa $130 nightly). The downtown action slows considerably during this time, allowing travelers to park and walk freely. With the absence of work-related traffic, it’s easy to drive back and forth from a high-end historic downtown hotel like the Magnolia to Museum District sites for a quick change of clothes or laptop break.
A worthwhile option just outside of downtown’s inner loop is the clean and spacious Best Western Plus Downtown Inn and Suites (915 W. Dallas St., 713/571-7733, www.bestwestern.com, $120 d). Rooms and suites include microwaves, fridges, and free Wi-Fi service, and the hotel offers a free full breakfast every morning, happy hour cocktails (Mon.-Thurs.), and a fitness center, spa, and outdoor pool.
If a historic setting is your style, consider the elegant and surprisingly affordable S Hotel Lancaster (701 Texas St., 713/228-9500, www.thelancaster.com, $139 d), one of Houston’s original small luxury hotels. Located in the heart of the Theater District, the Lancaster’s posh aura is immediately apparent upon entering the lobby, decorated with large oil paintings and dramatic lighting. There’s a sense of European opulence in the hotel’s decor, and the guest rooms capture this charm with dark wood two-poster beds, feather pillows with the softest sheets imaginable, and brass furnishings. Even the breakfast buffet is cosmopolitan—there’s muesli, salmon, and olives accompanying traditional American fare like sausage, eggs, and waffles. Above all, guests will notice the attention to detail and incredible customer service. The Lancaster also offers “free” wireless Internet, a bountiful breakfast, and car service to nearby attractions—these valuable items may be included with your rate as a $15 service fee, so be sure to read the fine print.
the luxurious Hotel Lancaster
For a deluxe downtown lodging experience in a major city of Houston’s size, it doesn’t get much better than the Sam Houston (117 Prairie St., 832/200-8800, www.hilton.com, $139 d). “The Sam” offers near-luxury accommodations without charging outrageous prices. Pamper yourself in this contemporary setting with amenities such as fancy bathrooms (granite walls and glass-walled showers with plush robes and towels), quality bedding (400-thread-count sheets, down comforters and pillows, pillow-top mattresses), as well as gourmet snacks, a minibar, and free Wi-Fi service.
One of the best ways to experience Houston—at an affordable rate, no less—is at the fabulous S Magnolia Hotel (1100 Texas Ave., 713/221-0011, www.magnoliahotelhouston.com, $148 d). This historic downtown gem hosts many business guests and events, and the bustling activity adds to the cosmopolitan aura of the grand 1926 building. There’s an undeniable charm to strolling in and out of a fancy hotel on a bustling urban streetscape, and it’s always a bonus to be within walking distance of attractions and quality restaurants. The Magnolia offers an impressive number of complimentary services, including wireless Internet access, downtown car transportation, a full hot breakfast, and, even better, free happy hour drinks and milk and cookies at bedtime. The rooms are on the small side, but that’s to be expected in a downtown hotel in the nation’s fourth-largest city. Also expected (yet dangerous) is the minibar stocked with beverages and snacks. The Magnolia’s accessible library is stocked with an eclectic collection of classic (and not-so-classic) books to borrow, and its rooftop fitness center, lap pool, and hot tub make this impressive hotel one of Houston’s top-notch lodging options.
Right in the middle of all the action is Hilton Americas (1600 Lamar St., 713/739-8000, www.hilton.com, $159 d), a humongous, visually striking hotel with more than 1,200 rooms towering over downtown. This is a big-time business destination since the Hilton is attached to the convention center, but weekends are a nice (and cheaper) time to stay since the hotel’s many amenities are even more accessible. Highlights include three restaurants, several bars and lounges, and an impressive spa and health club with downtown views. Rooms feature free wireless Internet access, fancy linens (300 thread count), and an in-room refreshment center.
Those seeking the comforts of home in a historical urban setting will enjoy the Residence Inn Houston Downtown (904 Dallas St., 832/366-1000, www.marriott.com, $159 d). The venue itself is spectacular—the 1921 Humble Oil Building features well-restored Classical Revival details such as brass elevator doors, tall ceilings, and stately rose marble. Hotel amenities include free Internet access, free drinks at the evening social hour, a large pool, a fitness center, and spacious suites with fully equipped kitchens and separate sleeping and living areas. Check out this over-the-top service: You can leave a grocery list at the front desk and return in the evening to a stocked kitchen.
Sometimes a visit to a cosmopolitan city requires a cosmopolitan lodging experience. In Houston, look no further than the S Hotel Icon (220 Main St., 713/224-4266, www.hotelicon.com, $199 d), offering dynamic contemporary lodging in the heart of downtown. This 12-story hotel is filled with bold colors and lavish details, including marble countertops, antique claw-foot tubs, luxury robes, and plush linens. Other amenities include free Wi-Fi service, Web TV, a stocked minibar, and fresh-cut flowers.
Those in search of five-star accommodations have several downtown options, including the reliably luxurious Four Seasons (1300 Lamar St., 713/650-1300, www.fourseasons.com, $249 d). The skyline views are outstanding here, as are the services, including the exquisite spa and salon, a spacious pool and fitness center, complimentary downtown car service, a tasty antipasti bar, and rooms featuring plush bathrobes, minibars, and Wi-Fi access.
Some of the most upscale lodging in town is at the Westin Houston Downtown (1520 Texas Ave., 713/228-1520, www.innattheballpark.com, $249 d), within earshot of the cracks of the Houston Astros’ bats. The location is one of the prime amenities here, since the other services (aside from being five-star in quality) are not overly inspiring. The Inn at the Ballpark offers free transportation services around town and a fitness center, but there are fees for in-room Internet access and breakfast.
Some of the best bargains in the city are in the busy Uptown area west of downtown near the Galleria. Among them are Drury Inn and Suites (1615 W. Loop S., 713/963-0700, www.druryhotels.com, $99 d), offering a free hot breakfast, evening social hour, a fitness center, an indoor/outdoor pool, and a whirlpool. Guest rooms feature free Internet access, microwaves, and refrigerators. Similarly priced and amenity packed is the adjacent La Quinta Inn & Suites (1625 W. Loop S., 713/355-3440, www.lq.com, $99 d), with a heated pool and spa, a fitness center, free deluxe continental breakfast buffet, and rooms with free Internet access.
For a modest increase in price, consider the impressive Hilton Post Oak (2001 Post Oak Blvd., 713/961-9300, www.hilton.com, $129 d). Each room includes a balcony offering impressive skyline views, as well as Wi-Fi access, minibars, and refrigerators. The hotel also offers complimentary shuttle service to destinations within a three-mile radius. Another option favored by many Galleria shoppers is the JW Marriott Houston (5150 Westheimer Rd., 713/961-1500, www.marriott.com, $142 d), a stately 23-floor hotel featuring wireless Internet access, a fitness center, indoor and outdoor pools, and a whirlpool.
It’s a bit more expensive, but you’ll certainly enjoy a unique and memorable experience at S Hotel Derek (2525 W. Loop S., 866/292-4100, www.hotelderek.com, $159 d). This independent option is contemporary and sophisticated, with consistently reliable service. Hotel Derek’s highlights include an outstanding pool with gushing waterfall, day-spa treatments, and a chauffeured car providing free transportation to the Galleria’s nearby shopping locales (or business meetings). Rooms feature free Wi-Fi access, minibars, bathrobes, and beds with goose-down duvets. The hotel’s restaurant, Revolve Kitchen + Bar, is a destination itself.
Another worthy option is Hotel Indigo at the Galleria (5160 Hidalgo St., 800/465-4329, www.ichotelsgroup.com, $150 d), featuring bold design and inspiring colors throughout the hotel, room options with separate sitting and work areas, free Internet access and printing capacities, a fitness center, and an outdoor pool.
Uptown visitors may also want to consider the reliable Doubletree Guest Suites (5353 Westheimer Rd., 713/961-9000, www.doubletree.com, $159 d). In addition to its ideal location, the hotel offers spacious one- and two-bedroom suites with wireless Internet access, a fancy fitness center, and a large outdoor pool area with sundeck and whirlpool.
If shopping is a priority, stay in a hotel connected to the country’s fourth-largest mall. The Westin Galleria Houston (5060 W. Alabama St., 713/960-8100, www.starwoodhotels.com, $249 d) is in a prime location, allowing guests to walk straight from the hotel to the massive attached shopping center. After a full day of browsing stores (or even leaving the hotel to explore nearby restaurants, taverns, and cultural attractions), you can unwind in a spacious room with Internet access (for a fee) and attractive furnishings.
Galleria visitors also enjoy setting up shop at Embassy Suites (2911 Sage Rd., 713/626-5444, www.embassysuites.com, $209 d). Guests are immediately greeted by an almost-overwhelming lobby featuring a lofty atrium with a jungle-themed waterway containing swans. Hotel amenities include an indoor pool and whirlpool, a large fitness center, a free cooked-to-order breakfast, and an evening social reception. Rooms offer a private bedroom and separate living area with a sofa bed, minibar, refrigerator, microwave, and Internet access (for a fee).
Downtown is pretty quiet most nights, but the West University area is usually hoppin’. Visitors often opt to stay here for the abundant nearby nightlife and cultural attractions. One of the best deals in the area is the Doubletree Greenway Plaza (6 Greenway Plaza E., 713/629-1200, www.marriott.com, $129 d), featuring spacious rooms with walk-in closets, luxury bedding, Internet access, a fitness center, and an outdoor pool. Another worthy option is the enormous Hilton Houston Plaza (6633 Travis St., 713/313-4000, www.hilton.com, $139 d). The Hilton includes large suites, minibars, Internet access, a fitness facility, a heated swimming pool, and free transportation within a three-mile radius of the hotel.
A step up in price is the worthy Courtyard Houston West University (2929 Westpark Dr., 713/661-5669, www.marriott.com, $227 d), offering an outdoor pool/whirlpool, an exercise room, a book-filled library, and free Internet access.
The lodging jewel of the city’s crown is S Hotel ZaZa (5701 Main St., 713/526-1991, www.hotelzaza.com, $297 and up), located just east of the University neighborhood on the edge of the Museum District. Billed as an “urban resort with a mix of glamour and warmth, high style, and creature comforts,” the ZaZa is in a league of its own. Amenities include a poolside retreat and outdoor bar with private cabanas, the luxurious ZaSpa and fitness center, nightly turndown service, cordless phones, free Wi-Fi service, ZaZa guest robes, fancy linens, refrigerators, and an in-room “grab and go gourmet refreshment bar.”
It’s well worth the quick jaunt up I-45 (30 minutes) to experience the luxurious and relaxing S Woodlands Resort (2301 N. Millbend Dr., The Woodlands, 281/367-1100, www.woodlandsresort.com, starting at $219). Whether you’re traveling with a partner or the entire family, this resort offers a true getaway with contemporary accommodations, fun water-based recreation (several pools, a tubing river, whirlpool tubs), a pampering spa, and tasty cuisine.
Although it may be tempting to never leave your comfortably modern room (the sheets and couches are incredibly soft, and the bathroom is opulent), be sure to explore the grounds. The Forest Oasis Waterscape pool area is a great place to start, with its multiple swimming areas, waterslides, and the über-enjoyable lazy river tube ride. If you have kids in tow during the summer, be sure to take advantage of the “dive-in” movies and poolside s’mores. While in relaxation mode, make a point to schedule a slightly indulgent massage, facial, or manicure at the Woodlands Resort Spa. Your mind and body will thank you profusely.
For those looking to balance some activity with recreation, head out to the Woodland Resort’s two lush golf courses or extensive tennis center (with clay, hard, and indoor courts). Another fun option is the trail system, allowing guests to ride bikes (rentals are available) or hike/jog among the area’s namesake pine and hardwood forests.
A resort getaway would be incomplete without a memorable meal, and that’s exactly what’s on the menu at Robard’s Steakhouse (281/364-6400, www.robardssteakhouse.com, Mon.-Thurs. 4pm-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 4pm-11pm, $14-49). Robard’s mission is to offer “the perfect cut” of beef, and it’s hard to argue with the results. Each steak is hand-selected from the in-house butchery and prepared precisely to order. The steaks are exquisite, especially when paired with one of the hundreds of wine or craft beer options, flavorful sides, and delectable desserts.
For those seeking an environmentally sustainable and affordable lodging option, try the eco- and tech-minded Element Houston Vintage Park (14555 Vintage Preserve Pkwy., 281/379-7300, www.elementhoustonvintagepark.com, $119 d). Part of a “lifestyle center” in the bustling northwestern part of town, Element touts its environmentally friendly design and construction, as well as its thorough provision of widespread wireless access for computers, phones, and portable online devices. Other amenities include a hot breakfast, open-flow guest rooms with fully equipped kitchens, and an evening reception (Mon.-Thurs. 6pm-7:30pm) with hand-selected regional wines and beers, soft drinks, and appetizers.
Houston’s best camping is about 30 miles southwest of the city at Brazos Bend State Park (21901 FM 762, 979/553-5102, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, $7 ages 13 and older). Covering roughly 5,000 acres, this popular state park offers hiking, biking, equestrian trails, and fishing on six easily accessible lakes. However, visitors are cautioned about alligators (seriously), which are numerous in some areas of the park. Facilities include restrooms with showers, campsites with water and electricity, screened shelters, primitive equestrian campsites, and a dining hall. Many visitors make Brazos Bend a weekend destination due to its abundant activities, including free interpretive programs and hikes. A nature center with informative displays contains a “hands-on” alligator discovery area, a model of the park, a freshwater aquarium, live native snake species, and the George Observatory (open Sat. 3pm-10pm).
Because Houston isn’t a big-time vacation destination, it doesn’t have an abundance of visitors centers offering maps and brochures. In fact, it only has one. Fortunately, the Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau (701 Avenida De Las Americas, 713/437-5200, www.visithoustontexas.com, daily 7am-10pm) can handle just about everything. The CVB’s office is chock-full of literature and knowledgeable staff members. Similar services are available southwest of town at Visit Bay Area Houston (604 Bradford Ave. in Kemah, 281/474-9700) and a Houston CVB kiosk at Katy Mills Mall (on I-10 about 15 miles west of town).
If you’re entering East Texas by vehicle from Louisiana, look for the Texas Department of Transportation’s Travel Information Center at two spots on the state border. The largest facility is in Orange (1708 E. I-10, 409/883-9416) on I-10 en route from New Orleans. The other is in Waskom (1255 N. I-20 E., 903/687-2547) on I-20 from Shreveport. Visit www.txdot.gov for road-related travel information.
The best source for news and information in Houston and southeast Texas is the Houston Chronicle (www.chron.com), containing thorough coverage of city and state happenings as well as detailed listings of restaurants and entertainment venues. For specific information about local politics, touring shows, and movie listings, pick up a free copy of the Houston Press (www.houstonpress.com) at bars, coffee shops, and bus stations across town.
The major air hub in this part of the country is George Bush Intercontinental Airport (2800 N. Terminal Rd., 281/230-3100, www.airport-houston.com), located just north of the city. This is one of United Airlines’s major hubs, and since this airport offers nonstop service to and from more than 170 cities around the world, it’s typically hustling and bustling at all hours of the day and night. The city’s old airfield, William P. Hobby Airport (7800 Airport Blvd., 713/640-3000, www.fly2houston.com/hobby) is now the center of activity for Southwest Airlines and hosts flights from several other major carriers. Located 10 miles southeast of downtown, Hobby is more accessible than Bush, but it’s showing its age. That’s often deemed forgivable by travelers who prefer the accessibility and cheaper cab fares (nearly $20 less than the trek from Bush to downtown Houston).
SuperShuttle (281/230-7275, www.supershuttle.com) offers shuttle service to and from area hotels and Bush Intercontinental and Hobby Airports. Look for the company’s ticket counters in the lower-level baggage claim areas of Bush and Hobby. Many downtown-area hotels offer free shuttle service to and from Bush Intercontinental Airport, but check first to make sure they’re running.
Passenger trains arrive in town via Amtrak’s Sunset Limited line, which runs cross-country between Orlando and Los Angeles. Look for arrivals and departures at the Houston Amtrak station (902 Washington Ave., 713/224-1577 or 800/872-7245, www.amtrak.com).
Those interested in traveling by bus can contact Houston Greyhound (2121 Main St., 713/759-6565 or 800/231-2222, www.greyhound.com).
To rent a car at Bush Intercontinental Airport, contact the Rental Car Center (281/230-3000, www.fly2houston.com/iah/rental-cars). All the major rental car companies are accessible from this shared location about five minutes away from the terminals. The rental companies share a shuttle system, designated by the buses marked “Rental Car Shuttle” located outside the terminal.
Houston has a decent public transportation system, but it can be confusing for out-of-towners who haven’t yet developed a strong sense of direction. Regardless, a little homework can be helpful in strategizing plans via the Metro, aka the Metropolitan Transit Authority of Harris County (713/635-4000, www.ridemetro.org), which offers local and commuter light rail and bus service. Tickets (typically in the $3-5 range) are available in vending machines located at each station. Metro’s red line services 16 stations near downtown’s busiest commercial and recreational sites.
Ground transportation employees outside each terminal of Bush Intercontinental Airport and near the lower-level baggage claim area (Curbzone 1) of Hobby Airport will half-heartedly hail travelers a taxi. All destinations within Houston’s city limits to or from Bush Intercontinental are charged a flat zone rate or the meter rate, whichever is less. For more information on zone rates, check out the Ground Transportation section at www.fly2houston.com. You can arrange for cab pickup service from within the city by contacting one of the following local companies: Houston VIP Taxi (28/616-5838), Liberty Cab Company (713/444-4444), and Taxis Fiesta (713/225-2666).