Corpus Christi Beach
S PADRE ISLAND NATIONAL SEASHORE
Steady breezes make Corpus Christi a windsurfing destination.
Stretching more than 350 miles along the Gulf of Mexico, this region of sun, sea, and sand offers the ultimate escape from cities, suburbs, and small towns. Its moderate beaches and waves don’t attract crowds the way Florida’s mighty surf does, but the call of the ocean draws casual beachcombers, salty anglers, and frolicking families.
Occasionally referred to as the country’s “Third Coast,” the gulf region offers something for everyone: quiet natural seashores, crazy spring break parties, and world-class museum facilities. The constant breeze off the ocean keeps sailors and windsurfers blissfully cruising along the shore and the temperatures down a few degrees (though the humidity is always hair-curling). The warm ocean water is inviting, though it sometimes approaches an uncomfortable soup-like temperature in the summer, and it’s technically responsible for stirring up horrific hurricanes far out at sea. Unfortunately, the gulf region has been making headlines in the past decade for less-than-appealing reasons. Hurricane Ike (2008) wreaked havoc on Galveston, and the Deepwater Horizon oil spill (2010) caused visitors to avoid the beaches, albeit temporarily.
All along the Gulf Coast you’ll find anglers of different stripes, from solo artists casting lines off a pier or from the surf’s edge to groups of tourists on charter deep-sea boats with professional guides. Regardless, the promise of a fresh catch—flounder, trout, bull reds, snapper, and even shark and tuna—is a rewarding prospect and one of the region’s main draws.
Naturalists flock to the area for the abundant birding opportunities. The Great Texas Coastal Birding Trail ties together all 300-plus miles of shoreline, from hummingbirds near Galveston to whooping cranes and tropical species on Padre Island. Two major migratory flyways intersect along the Gulf Coast, allowing birders to potentially capture (in a camera viewfinder) an elusive species on their must-see list.
Though it’s hard to imagine why anyone would want to abandon the recreational opportunities along the shoreline (perhaps your skin is already too parched), the cool air-conditioning at numerous Gulf Coast museums offers a welcome cultural respite. Galveston’s Moody Gardens and several Corpus Christi attractions are world-class facilities for learning about regional history, wildlife, and art. Top your day off with a fresh catch from one of the seaside restaurants for a perfect ending to a Gulf Coast day.
Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.
S The Strand: Experience Galveston’s thriving historic district in all its New Orleans-style splendor, including hotels, restaurants, art galleries, and boutiques (click here).
S The Elissa and Texas Seaport Museum: Get a feel for seafaring life by walking across the sturdy wooden decks of the second-oldest operational sailing vessel in the world (click here).
S Texas State Aquarium: Experience Texas’s Gulf Coast from the ground down, starting with birds and gators at sea level and descending to oil-rig depths with menacing sharks, a colossal grouper, and hundreds of other slippery species (click here).
S USS Lexington Museum: This decommissioned World War II naval aircraft carrier transports visitors back in time with vintage aircraft, tours of its 11 decks, and an impressive collection of historic memorabilia (click here).
S Padre Island National Seashore: Enjoy the longest remaining undeveloped stretch of barrier island in the world (click here).
S King Ranch: This 825,000-acre “birthplace of American ranching” evokes the majesty and mystique of Texas culture, with genuine cowboys herding longhorn cattle through wide-open spaces (click here).
S Port Isabel Lighthouse: It’s well worth the 74-step climb up a tight spiral staircase to experience the breathtaking views—from the bug-size cars passing over the gorgeous Laguna Madre to old downtown Port Isabel (click here).
Aside from the festive annual springtime activity in Galveston (Mardi Gras) and South Padre (spring break), most of the Gulf Coast is a year-round, slow-moving vacationland, where the biggest challenge is determining the day’s activities—swimming, fishing, shell collecting, sunbathing, surfing, boating, or sand castle building. Visitors responding to the call of the sea find the region to be as low-key as the gulf’s lightly lapping waves.
With 350 miles of shoreline, Texas’s Gulf Coast is challenging to characterize. But that also makes it uniquely Texan—from industrial oil refineries to big ol’ spring break beach parties, the coastline stretches from urban playgrounds to a national seashore.
The northern area of Texas’s coast is dominated by Galveston Island, a mere 45-minutes from Houston. Although it can be crowded with urban escapees on weekends, Galveston has a smaller-town charm with a fascinating past and impressive historic buildings.
Just an hour down-coast is the Brazosport Area (that’s its actual name), a refreshingly non-touristy collection of communities known for oil refineries and chemical plants. Fortunately, these are balanced by welcoming beaches and fishing.
Three hours farther south, Corpus Christi offers a decidedly less-urban vibe, despite its population of nearly 400,000. Visitors and retirees flock here for the birding, fishing, seafood, and recreation.
The final stretch of coastline is a doozy—it takes three hours from Corpus to reach South Padre, and the highway doesn’t even hug the shore. Instead, drivers head inland for a somewhat-uninspiring trek through the enormous King Ranch. The drive is worth it though, since it culminates at the gorgeous South Padre Island, with pristine beaches and tasty waves.
Coast-bound travelers tend to stay for a weekend in one area—Galveston, Brazosport, Corpus Christi, or South Padre—to lay claim to a beach condo or hole up in a fishing village as opposed to roaming the entire region. In fact, parking yourself on one beach is the best way to do it, unless you have time and money to spare and can enjoy your experience cruising along the coast in a boat (rentals are available).
In general, there are two types of Gulf Coast travelers: busy families looking for a getaway from the ’burbs and grizzled anglers looking for a getaway from the family. The South Padre Island beaches are considered the nicest, so if quality sand and surf are your top priorities, that’s the best place to start. Plan to spend at least two or three days soaking up the sun, soft white sand, and gently rolling surf.
As you make your way up the coast, the beaches tend to be less scenic—the sand is a bit darker and the infiltration of civilization is more apparent (oil rigs, trash, tankers, commercial buildings, etc.). Regardless, the scent of salt water and intrinsic lure of the sea are just as strong; you just have to deal with more traffic and city folk. It’s worth spending a long weekend in Corpus Christi to soak up the pleasant scene on Mustang Island or nearby Padre Island National Seashore. The city’s USS Lexington, Texas State Aquarium, and Museum of Science and History are well worth visiting for a family-friendly, air-conditioned change of pace.
The Brazosport Area offers fewer cultural amenities than its coastal cousins, which is precisely the reason anglers prefer spending quiet weekends here sans water parks and booming car stereos. Things are more laid-back and less commercial in this unassuming corner of the coast, where retirees, anglers, and professional beachcombers peacefully coexist.
Galveston is where the big-city Houston folk go to spend their money and get their beach and seafood fix. It’s the least pristine of all the Gulf Coast beaches, but the waves are still welcoming, and the shopping and restaurant scene in the historic Strand district are certainly deserving of at least two travel days.
Most communities along the Gulf Coast have visitors bureaus where tourists can inquire about directions, equipment rental, and other travel-related assistance. Contact the following entities before your trip with questions about logistics or scheduling. Physical addresses and hours of operation are included at the end of each destination section in this chapter.
Brazosport Area Chamber of Commerce (979/285-2501, www.brazosport.org), Corpus Christi Area Convention & Visitors Bureau (361/881-1800 or 800/766-2322, www.visitcorpuschristitx.org), Galveston Island Convention & Visitors Bureau (409/763-4311 or 888/425-4753, www.galvestoncvb.com), and South Padre Island Convention & Visitors Bureau (956/761-6433 or 800/767-2373, www.sopadre.com).
A couple of helpful websites provide more detailed information about the coast, including maps, resources, and notices about current conditions and events. The Texas General Land Office offers a Beach and Bay Access Guide with links to environmental reports and downloads (www.txcoasts.com), and the Texas Gulf Coast Real Estate organization has compiled a handy website with general information about coastal geology, beaches, parks, and map links (www.texasgulfcoastonline.com).
Most travelers arrive on the Gulf Coast by car from other locales within the state; however, airline service is available via Corpus Christi International Airport and at Brownsville near South Padre.
Since the majority of the coastline is undeveloped, there aren’t any major freeways linking cities. Highway 35 is the closest option—a primarily rural road stretching between Houston and Corpus Christi passing through dozens of small towns along the way. The lengthy Padre Island National Seashore is only accessible by a park road near Corpus Christi; otherwise, the trek to South Padre beaches is more than 20 miles offshore via U.S. Highway 77 through Kingsville, Harlingen, and Brownsville.
To reach the beach in a hurry, get on the next flight to Corpus Christi International Airport (1000 International Blvd., 361/289-0171, www.corpuschristiairport.com), offering service from American Eagle, United, and Southwest Airlines. South Padre is accessible via the Brownsville/South Padre Island International Airport (700 Amelia Earhart Dr., 956/542-4373, www.airport-houston.com), served by United and American Eagle. Galveston is about an hour-long drive from Houston via George Bush Intercontinental Airport (2800 N. Terminal Rd., 281/230-3100, www.airport-houston.com) or William P. Hobby Airport (7800 Airport Blvd., 713/640-3000, www.fly2houston.com/hobby). Rental car service is available at each airport.
On an island about 50 miles southeast of Houston, Galveston (population 50,180) is a hotbed for Texas history. Most people remember the Alamo, but they don’t realize Galveston was once Texas’s largest city and busiest port, with thousands of immigrants arriving each year. Unfortunately, hurricanes (2008’s Ike, in particular) have been historic for all the wrong reasons, with devastating winds and waves destroying property and driving some residents permanently out of town.
Galveston was founded in 1839, and the island town was emerging as a burgeoning commercial center until the Civil War put the brakes on its progress. An interesting historical side note: On January 1, 1863, Confederate troops recaptured the city, while, on the same day, Abraham Lincoln signed the final draft of the Emancipation Proclamation. Word didn’t make it to Galveston until June 19, 1865, when enslaved Texans officially (finally) received their freedom. Afterward, Galveston became the birthplace of the now-national Juneteenth celebration, which commemorates the June 19 announcement.
After the war, Galveston resumed its steady growth due to the hundreds of immigrants, primarily German, disembarking from ocean liners each day. Trade was prosperous, especially cotton exports, and for a while, Galveston was known as the “Wall Street of the South” due to its robust economy and cosmopolitan amenities such as electric lights, telephones, and modern streetcars.
The stately mansions and downtown business buildings constructed during this era still stand as the heart of Galveston’s historic district. Tourists from around the globe flock to the island to experience these intricate homes (most are now history museums) and ornate commercial architecture.
Galveston’s fate was forever altered in 1900 when a massive hurricane destroyed nearly a third of the island’s buildings. The torrential 120-mile-per-hour windstorm caused an estimated 6,000 deaths, an inconceivable number of casualties in these 24-hour live-weather radar days. As a result of the devastation, Galveston’s industrial and residential populations shifted to Houston.
Galveston eventually recovered from its economically challenging times—thanks in part to the construction of a massive seawall to protect the northern part of the island—to become one of the state’s top tourist destinations. Although Hurricane Ike caused widespread damage in 2008 (mainly from flooding), most of the island’s cultural and historical attractions survived the storm and reopened for business. The beach remains the island’s main draw, especially for surf-seeking Houstonians, but its rich historic fabric provides a pleasant slice of Victorian-era life for international visitors.
Many of Galveston’s attractions are heritage related, but they’re well worth checking out since they’re some of the highest-quality cultural sites in the state. Galveston devoted considerable efforts to recovering from 2008’s Hurricane Ike, and this forward-looking attitude is represented by the new Pleasure Pier and Schlitterbahn Waterpark entertainment complexes on the shoreline. A mile away, the historic commercial buildings along The Strand and the century-old mansions showcase a distinctive and fascinating time in Texas history that visitors won’t find throughout the inland regions.
The heart of Galveston’s thriving business district in the late 1800s and early 1900s, The Strand (Strand and Mechanic Sts. between 20th and 25th Sts.) still captures the essence of the city’s “Wall Street of the South” era. This 36-block National Historic Landmark District features New Orleans-style hotels, restaurants, art galleries, and boutiques, most of which escaped the devastation of the 1900 hurricane. Today, visitors are drawn to the antiques and clothing shops, art studios, and seasonal festivals, including the popular Dickens on the Strand and Mardi Gras celebrations.
Spoiler alert: It’s all about pleasure at the Pleasure Pier (2501 Seawall Blvd., 855/789-7437, www.pleasurepier.com, seasonal hours, $20-27 all-day passes, $4 individual ride tickets). This smile-inducing amusement park atop the Gulf Coast harkens back to a 1940s facility with the same name (although the gangsters of yore have been replaced with frolicking families and giggling couples). The current Pleasure Pier is hoping the third time’s a charm—two earlier sites were knocked out by hurricanes.
The Pier is an ideal spot to spend a few hours exploring 16 amusement park rides, midway games, boardwalk-style shopping, and food vendors (a Bubba Gump Shrimp Company restaurant is also on-site). The bumper cars are a blast, and you’ll experience unforgettable thrills on the Rock-n-Roll ride. There aren’t many other places where you can enjoy a roller coaster, giant swing, or Ferris wheel with an ocean beneath you.
Galveston’s newest attraction is historical. The Bryan Museum (1315 21st St., 409/632-7685, www.thebryanmuseum.com, Thurs.-Mon. 11am-4pm, $14 adults, $10 seniors and students, $4 children ages 6-12) is the realized dream of J. P. Bryan, a respected Texas oilman who has a passion for Texas’s history. And artifacts. In fact, his museum reportedly houses the world’s largest collection of Southwestern artifacts.
The Bryan Museum
Appropriately, the building itself has a storied past—the site dates to 1895 as the Galveston Children’s Home. The Bryan Museum features three floors of rare and fascinating objects and documents. Highlights include original correspondence from infamous Gulf Coast pirate Jean Lafitte, a sword used to help capture Mexican general Santa Anna, historic guns used in significant Texas battles, and an amazing collection of decorative saddles.
Visitors view these objects in dramatically lit exhibit cases that offer a pleasant backlit appearance with accompanying artwork to highlight the artifacts. The exhibits begin with Native American history and progress chronologically to include the Spanish and French colonial eras and the Texas Revolution.
Creating waves of excitement for families across the region is Schlitterbahn Waterpark (2026 Lockheed St., 409/770-9283, www.schlitterbahn.com/gal, $51 adults, $39 children ages 3-11). Although it may initially seem odd to have a massive water-based entertainment facility near the shore, Schlitterbahn is more of an amusement (water)park than a swimming destination.
For example, the ocean can’t compete with Schlitterbahn’s “uphill water coasters” in a convertible facility that can be opened or closed for indoor or outdoor recreation year-round (the water and air are always in the 80s). Other attractions include traditional twisty waterslides, white-water rapids, a wave pool, playgrounds, hot tubs, a vertical plunge tower, and a surf ride.
One of the city’s most treasured landmarks is the 1877 ship Elissa (Pier 21, 409/763-1877, www.galvestonhistory.org, daily 10am-5:30pm, $12 adults, $9 students ages 6 and up). This remarkable historic ship is the second-oldest operational sailing vessel in the world and one of the three oldest merchant boats still afloat. Get a feel for seafaring life by walking across the sturdy wooden decks under the massive masts and 19 sails, and exploring the sleeping quarters and mechanical room. While below deck, be sure to take a few minutes to view the professional documentary about the boat’s dramatic shipyard rescue. Incidentally, the Elissa was one of the few historical attractions in Galveston that was largely unharmed by Hurricane Ike, losing only a few sails while remaining anchored to the seafloor. The ship has been designated an American Treasure by the National Trust for Historic Preservation.
To learn more about the Elissa’s history and restoration, visit the adjacent Texas Seaport Museum. The portside facility features informative exhibits about maritime culture, an interesting movie about Galveston’s port-based heritage as the “Ellis Island of the West,” and a computer database with the names of more than 133,000 immigrants who entered the United States through Galveston.
While at the museum, visitors can arrange a boat tour aboard the Seagull II (adults $10, students $8). The Seagull was built specifically for harbor sightseeing excursions (providing comfort and protection from the sun) and offers hour-long narrated tours dedicated to the distinctive variety of regional birds and marine life in the area.
Visitors and locals are raising a glass to one of the island’s newest attractions: Galveston Island Brewing (8423 Stewart Rd., 409/740-7000, www.galvestonislandbrewing.com, Mon.-Thurs. 3pm-9pm, Fri. 3pm-midnight, Sat. noon-midnight, Sun. noon-9pm). Former tugboat captain Mark Dell’Osso is now churning out impressive brews, including a flagship TIKI Wheat, must-taste Flip-Flop Lager, and a hearty Nightfall Porter. The brewery also has some tasty grub on-site—muffalettas, soft pretzels, and po-boys—or feel free to bring your own. Although the brewery’s ambience is slightly lacking (it’s a metal warehouse in an industrial complex), the scene is welcoming and lively, with families and dogs playing on the grounds. If possible, plan to arrive on Saturday for the free brewery tour at 1pm.
Grand. Stately. Ginormous. However you choose to describe it, the spectacular 1886 Bishop’s Palace (1402 Broadway St., 409/762-2475, www.galvestonhistory.org, daily 11am-6pm, guided tours every hour, $12 adults, $9 students) is the centerpiece of Galveston’s historic Broadway Street. The American Institute of Architects designated Bishop’s Palace as one of the 100 outstanding buildings in the country, and it’s easy to see why. This Victorian castle exudes elegance, from its ornate fireplaces (one is lined with pure silver) to its grand stairway to its stained-glass windows and intricately carved furnishings and details. The Bishop’s Palace is Galveston’s most visited historical attraction, for good reason—its stately design and detailed furnishings transport visitors to another era, offering an escape to the past unmatched in this part of the country. For those interested in a behind-the-scenes tour offering a glimpse into the inner workings and rare views of the marvelous mansion, inquire about the site’s monthly Basement-to-Attic tour.
Bishop’s Palace
Nearly as impressive in its opulence is the nearby Moody Mansion (2618 Broadway St., 409/762-7668, www.moodymansion.org, daily 10am-5pm, $12 adults, $6 students). Renowned Galveston entrepreneur and businessman W. L. Moody Jr. purchased the four-story, 32-room, 28,000-square-foot limestone and brick mansion a week after the 1900 hurricane. The stately home features rare hand-carved wood, coffered ceilings, stained glass, and heirlooms from the Moody family, who established one of the country’s most heralded financial empires through various entrepreneurial endeavors (cotton, banking, ranching, and insurance). Marvel at the manicured grounds, exquisite furnishings, the expansive ballroom, and the dining room’s gold-leaf ceiling. Behind-the-scenes tours are available ($25 per person) Friday-Sunday at 4pm.
the Moody Mansion
Natural wonders await beneath three enormous glass pyramids at Moody Gardens (1 Hope Blvd., 409/744-4673, www.moodygardens.com, daily 10am-6pm, $57 for one-day pass, $20 for individual pyramid tickets). One of Galveston’s most popular and prominent attractions, Moody Gardens offers an elaborate and stunning collection of plants, animals, and educational exhibits inside its colossal 100-foot-tall structures. If you only have time to choose one area to explore, go with the Rainforest Pyramid. The Aquarium Pyramid has more animals and features, but the rainforest environment is a unique experience, where you’ll find yourself face-to-face with African jungle animals, tropical birds, and colorful reptiles. Massive plants, cascading waterfalls, and the constant chatter of birds and insects transport you to these exotic habitats. Be sure to check out the bat cave, with various species of bats hanging upside-down, nibbling on fresh fruit.
The Aquarium Pyramid takes you on a journey across the world’s oceans, viewed at two levels—surface and underwater. Marvel at penguins as they waddle and dive, and catch an up close view of sea lions as they glide and play. Sharks, sea turtles, rays, and tropical fish await below the surface, viewable in a traditional aquarium tank setting or from the underwater tunnel surrounded by one million gallons of water.
Other notable attractions include the Discovery Pyramid, featuring science and nature exhibits; a new ropes course and zipline offering a bird’s-eye view of the pyramids; three IMAX “ridefilm” 3-D and 4-D theaters; kids’ activities aboard a paddlewheel boat; seasonal recreation at Palm Beach (swimming lagoons, whirlpools, volleyball, and paddleboats); formal gardens; a golf course; nature trails; and the esteemed Moody Gardens conference center, hotel, and spa.
For an offbeat yet interesting experience, check out the East End Historical District’s Galveston Tree Sculptures Tour (information and maps available at www.galveston.com, 409/797-5144). Hurricane Ike devastated Galveston in 2008 with a tidal surge that led to the demise of thousands of oak trees. Local artists honored the former foliage by creating carvings from the tree remains. Highlights include a large live oak containing more than a dozen carved birds called “Birds of Galveston,” and a carving named “Tin Man and Toto” at the birth home of Wizard of Oz director King Vidor.
You don’t even have to be a fan of classic warbirds to enjoy a visit to the Lone Star Flight Museum (2002 Terminal Dr., 409/740-7722, www.lsfm.org, daily 9am-5pm, $10 adults, $8 students and seniors). The museum features an impressive collection of vintage aircraft, including a World War II-era F4U Corsair fighter, B-17 Flying Fortress, and a T-6/SNJ Texan trainer. Even if these names and numbers aren’t recognizable, it’s humbling to stand beneath the enormous outstretched wings of a B-17 or see the small seat where a brave 19-year-old man fought for our country more than seven decades ago. Most of the planes are still in flying condition, and visitors can reserve a spot for a flight in one of the planes with some advance planning via the museum’s website. Note: As of mid-2017, plans were in place to move the museum about 30 miles north. Check websites for updates.
Also of interest to history enthusiasts is the remarkable 1859 Ashton Villa (2328 Broadway St., 409/762-3933, www.galvestonhistory.org, call in advance about visiting the mansion). This stately residence, built for one of Texas’s wealthiest businessmen, James Moreau Brown, set the standard for the exquisite Galveston homes that followed. Experience the Victorian lifestyle through the home’s grand entryway, life-size paintings, and beautifully landscaped grounds. The house contains many pieces of artwork, furniture, and mementos the family acquired during its travels to Asia. Ashton Villa now houses the city’s Heritage Visitors Center, which is open daily, but tours of the mansion are held by appointment only.
Anchoring Galveston’s historic downtown Strand district is the former Santa Fe Union Station, home to The Railroad Museum (2602 Santa Fe Pl., 409/765-5700, www.galvestonrrmuseum.com, daily 10am-5pm, $6 adults, $4 students). More than 20,000 railroad items and several dozen vintage passenger, dining, and kitchen cars provide fascinating views of railroad life from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The main terminal, at the heart of this impressive art deco building, contains interactive exhibits and a collection of unique plaster sculptures depicting “ghosts of travelers past.” Kids will love the miniature model trains and the historic railcars behind the passenger depot.
When in Texas . . . For those interested in learning about a significant factor impacting the Lone Star State and its Gulf Coast, be sure to drop by the Ocean Star Offshore Drilling Rig and Museum (1900 Harborside Dr., 409/766-7827, www.oceanstaroec.com, summer daily 10am-5pm, winter daily 10am-4pm, $9 adults, $7 students and seniors). Just a block from the Strand historic district, this distinctive yet small museum educates visitors about the offshore oil and gas industry via a refurbished drilling rig. Visitors can take a self-guided tour through three levels of the retired rig to learn about oil exploration, drilling, and production through informative exhibits and videos.
There are a few different kinds of beaches in Galveston—the touristy stretches near hotels and attractions, quiet areas frequented by locals, and the fun-times singles spots. They all serve important purposes, but it’s probably best they’re located in different areas of the shoreline. Also noteworthy: The Galveston Park Board recently helped organize an expansion project that widened existing beaches and added nearly 15 blocks of new beach, the largest restoration project of its kind in Texas history.
One of the most family-friendly spots is Stewart Beach (6th St. and Seawall Blvd., 409/765-5023, open Mar.-mid-Oct., $10-12 per car), where you’ll find moms, dads, and kids building sand castles, playing volleyball, and bodysurfing. Nearby amenities include a children’s playground with waterslides, umbrella and chair rentals, a concession area, a souvenir shop, restrooms, and a bathhouse. Things get a bit crazier at East Beach (1923 Boddeker Dr., 409/762-3278, $10-12 per car). This is where Houston’s younger crowd comes to party, a rare surfside treat since East Beach is one of the few places where drinking is legal on the beach. As a result, you’ll find more concerts, promotions, and festivals than at other public stretches of shoreline. Up to 7,000 cars can pack the beach (the parking and drinking/sunbathing combo is a popular activity), and the bar area is a magnet for partygoers. East Beach also includes restrooms with showers, volleyball courts, chair and umbrella rentals, and a souvenir shop.
Recreational opportunities abound in Galveston. Many of these outdoor-based activities have expanded in recent years, as visitors are increasingly searching for physical challenges and workout opportunities while on the coast. Why would you sit in a hotel and watch TV when you can go kayaking, biking, or surfing?
One of the most popular places on the island to enjoy the outdoors is Galveston Island State Park (14901 FM 3005, 409/737-1222, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, $5 ages 13 and up). The popular park encapsulates the spirit of recreation, offering camping, hiking, biking, fishing, swimming, and birding.
The park is an ideal place to spend an afternoon hiking or biking, followed by a dip in the ocean or the simple pleasure of beachcombing. There are four miles of trails to explore, mainly through bayside salt marshes and prairie grassland. Although there are no lifeguards on the beach, swimmers can take comfort in the provided amenities of restrooms and rinse showers.
Tired of driving your car around while on vacation? You’re not the only one. Bike rentals have become a popular way for visitors to experience Galveston, especially since they don’t have to worry about mega-freeways and crazy traffic jams.
To rent a bike and learn about Galveston’s best cycling areas, head directly to Island Bicycle Company (1808 Seawall Blvd., 409/762-2453, www.islandbicyclecompany.com). The shop claims to have the largest selection of rental bikes in the city, and it even offers hotel pickup service. Island Bicycle’s best service is the self-guided tour: For $30, you can take a bike for a full day at your own pace and explore points of interest (including lunch at a local restaurant and a ferry ride). The package includes a lock and a map.
For those seeking a slightly more adventurous and innovative way to explore Galveston Island, consider renting a kayak, paddleboard, or canoe.
A good starting point is Galveston Island State Park. The park has an established waterway trail system, allowing paddlers to put in and take out their vessels at convenient locations. Paddlers have three different park “trails” to choose from: the 2.6-mile Dana Cove Trail, beginning at Lake Como and meandering through shallow seagrass-lined waters; the Oak Bayou Trail, a 4.8-mile course beginning near the boardwalk and following along inlets and breakwaters of Galveston Bay; and the Jenikins Bayou Trail, a 2.8-mile trail traversing a freshwater pond and small bay inlet.
A worthy outfit for kayak rental and excursion info is Gulf Coast Kayak Adventures (979/215-6319, www.gulfcoastkayakadventures.com). The company offers shuttle service to specified locations, as well as full-day rentals ($65 for a single kayak or $80 for a tandem). Guided kayak tours are also available for $150 (plus $60 per person), ranging from beginner trips exploring birding opportunities to advanced tours offering potential porpoise sightings.
The Gulf Coast is a bird-watcher’s paradise, with ample opportunity for birders to catch glimpses of their favorite flying species during migrations in spring and fall. Galveston Island offers a few extra incentives for birds to make a landing and stay grounded for a while. The natural barrier island habitat provides protection and, more important, food-rich bayous and marshes.
the shoreline in Galveston
Galveston Island State Park is an ideal place to find a perch for prime bird-watching opportunities. Keep an eye (and camera) out for the great blue heron, white ibis, great egret, and white spoonbill, and don’t forget to keep your eyes to the skies for hawks, gulls, and terns.
“Galveston” and “surfing” don’t usually appear in the same sentence—or thought. But there are occasional days and locations where surfing exceeds expectations.
Although many people choose to windsurf due to the steady coastal winds, those committed to catching a wave the old-fashioned way can often find decent conditions along the Seawall (between 21st and 51st Streets). Waves tend to be most consistent in spring, and their gentle nature offers a good opportunity for beginners to hone their skills. For beginners, be sure to keep an eye out for the beach patrol’s red-flag warnings on especially gusty days. The Galveston Beach Patrol (409/763-4769, www.galvestonbeachpatrol.com) provides current weather condition information. For information about surf equipment rental, contact one of the city’s surf shops, such as Ohana Surf & Skate (2814 Avenue R, 409/763-2700, www.ohanasurfandskate.com).
Fishing opportunities abound in Galveston, from solo shoreline casting to chartered group tours. It’s important to note, however, that a fishing license is required. To obtain one ($30 for nonresidents, $19 for residents), drop by the Super Wal-Mart (6702 Seawall Blvd.) or contact the Texas Parks and Wildlife Office (800/895-4248) and purchase by credit card.
For those in search of something simple, head to Galveston Island State Park for bayside fishing. Spotted sea trout, black drum, and flounder can be caught along the shore, and a fish cleaning station is available at the end of the park road near the camping area. For information about licensing and conditions, contact the park’s administrative office at 409/737-1222.
One of the most popular fishing spots on the island is the Galveston Fishing Pier (90th St. and Seawall Blvd., 409/974-4383, www.galvestonfishingpier.com, admission $12 adults, $8 children ages 11 and under, rod and reel rental $9, cash only). The 300-foot-long T-head is an ideal spot to take in the sights of the shoreline while casting a line for redfish, jackfish, and sea trout. To make things even easier, the pier offers equipment rental, bait, chairs, and mobile carts.
Like most beach towns, Galveston’s nightlife scene is a mix of touristy surfside venues (often the most fun and memorable options) and standard beer joints or restaurant and bar combos. Unlike other popular travel destinations, however, the bar scene tends to shut down earlier than usual (10pm at many locations), so be sure to call ahead if you’re planning a pub-crawl itinerary.
A great place to grab a colorful cocktail with an amazing view is the H2O Pool Lounge (5222 Seawall Blvd., 409/744-1500, www.sanluisresort.com). Part of the upscale San Luis Resort, the H2O bar is open to visitors who want to partake of the crafty creations and cool vibe of the bar and pool area, which features a fire pit, HDTVs, and groovy music—all with the gorgeous Gulf Coast as a backdrop.
Offering the sometimes rare combination of “touristy” and “genuinely fun” is Float (2828 Seawall Blvd., 409/765-7946). The main attraction (during hot summer months) is the outdoor pool, where customers are encouraged to enjoy a cold beverage while . . . floating. The atmosphere is like a supersize backyard pool party, albeit with a full bar offering exotic drinks and views of the Gulf of Mexico. For those who didn’t bring a bathing suit (or are visiting during one of the few months of the year when the temperatures are below 80 degrees), there’s indoor seating and standard pub grub, but it’s not quite as fun.
For those who take their drinking slightly more seriously, head directly to Brews Brothers Brew Pub (2404 Strand St., 417/230-6644). You won’t find any thirst-quenching commercial light beers here, and that’s undeniably refreshing. As its name implies, the brewpub specializes in craft beers (though it currently does not have its own brews on tap). Regardless, the staff is extremely knowledgeable about beers, and will gladly describe and recommend any of the countless options from independent craft brewers across the country.
If you’re looking for a good spot to grab a meal followed by some drinks, people watching, and a steady ocean breeze, drop by Yaga’s Café and Bar (2314 Strand St., 409/762-6676, www.yagaspresents.com). In the heart of the Strand district adjacent to Saengerfest Park, Yaga’s is known for its large outdoor patio and dance parties (live music on weekends and a dance floor).
Most island visitors searching for nighttime entertainment tend to gravitate toward bars rather than theaters, but Galveston has a few notable venues worth discovering. First and foremost is the Grand 1894 Opera House (2020 Post Office St., 409/765-1894, www.thegrand.com). It has truly stood the test of time (and torrential storms), having survived the devastating storms of 1900 and 1915 as well as Hurricanes Carla, Alicia, and Ike. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Grand was also officially proclaimed “The Official Opera House of Texas” by the state legislature in 1993.
The building’s rich history is immediately apparent upon entering the theater, featuring a grand staircase, wooden walls, and turn-of-the-20th-century furnishings. Friendly ushers offer a helpful hand (and stories) for attendees, who regularly pack the house for Texas legends (Lyle Lovett, Jerry Jeff Walker, Robert Earl Keen) and classic artists (Oak Ridge Boys, Kingston Trio).
Another worthy theater option is Island Etc. (2317 Mechanic St., 409/771-0165, www.islandetc.org). Billed as Galveston County’s only professional repertory theater company, Island Etc. (short for East-end Theater Company) stages up to six productions a year, mostly traditional shows such as Cat on a Hot Tin Roof, Avenue Q, and Harvey. The venue also screens classic movies, ranging from The Wizard of Oz to Rocky Horror Picture Show to Back to the Future.
Like the Grand Opera House, Island Etc.’s theater building is a strong survivor of several devastating storms. Hurricane Ike destroyed its previous location on Post Office Street, just as the company was making plans to relocate to its location in the former Strand Theatre.
By far the biggest annual event in Galveston (and one of the biggest in Texas) is Mardi Gras (888/425-4753, www.mardigrasgalveston.com). Held in late winter/early spring (two weeks before the beginning of Lent), this all-out “party of a lifetime” draws more than a quarter of a million people. That’s not a misprint.
Held on the island for more than a century, this crazy days-long party features extravagant parades, exhibits, live entertainment, and galas. One of the biggest attractions: the three million beads thrown from floats and balconies . . . just for fun!
Many beachside communities host sand castle competitions, but most of them aren’t like Galveston’s. Instead of just stacking a few pails of sand together, the sand castle architects at Galveston’s annual sand castle competition (1923 Boddeker St., www.aiasandcastle.com) on East Beach in mid-June are actual architects. Hosted by the Houston chapter of the American Institute of Architects since 1986, Galveston’s event is a sight to behold. The imaginative and professionally designed sand structures have to be seen to be believed.
Aside from Mardi Gras, one of Galveston’s most venerable annual events is Dickens on the Strand (502 20th St., 409/765-7834, www.galvestonhistory.org). Held the first weekend of each December, the festival transports participants and visitors to the past for a weekend of 19th-century high society Galveston style. Costumed revelers, carolers, entertainers, and attendees re-create the festive atmosphere of 1800s Galveston, then Texas’s largest and richest city.
The city’s other major holiday-related event is the Moody Gardens Festival of Lights (1 Hope Blvd., 800/582-4673, www.moodygardens.com). Billed as one of the largest holiday celebrations in the region, the Festival of Lights lives up to its name by showcasing more than one million lights on displays and throughout the site’s signature pyramid structures. The fest features a rarity in Texas during December: an outdoor ice-skating rink and Ice Slide ride.
Shopping is one of Galveston’s main draws, with abundant fashion boutiques and knickknack shops throughout the historic downtown area. Keep in mind, this is where wealthy Houstonians come to play, so items are often priced for this clientele.
The gaslit street lamps, ornate architectural detailing, and lofty display windows along the 36-block Strand district even attract non-shoppers with their Victorian-era charm. One of the first places many people start their browsing is the eclectic Hendley Market (2010 Strand St., 409/762-2610, www.hendleymarket.com). This fascinating emporium contains a little bit of everything, from Mexican imports to vintage jewelry to kitschy knickknacks to antique medical instruments. Kids will love the baskets filled with handcrafted toys and plastic novelty trinkets. Not quite as charming yet equally beguiling with its amazing array of objects is Big House Antiques (2212 Mechanic St., 409/762-0559). Shoppers will find many estate-sale pieces here, including furniture, jewelry, decorative items, and books.
For those in search of something shiny and tasteful, head to The Jewel Garden (2326 Strand St., 409/766-7837). This fancy-yet-casual shop offers a range of quality gifts, including silver jewelry, home decor objects, wind chimes, and hand-carved woodwork.
If you forgot your flip-flops or lost your sunglasses on the beach, drop by Jammin Sportswear (2314 Strand St., 409/763-4005). Every beach town needs a few good T-shirt shops, and Jammin Sportswear is one of the most popular on the island. Pick up towels, caps, sunscreen, or even one of those bitey alligator toys here. A step up is Surf Styles (2119 Strand St., 409/763-0147), where you can get a T-shirt for the beach and some stylish cruisewear for a night on the town. Brands include Stussy, Miss Me Denim, Converse, and Lucky Brand.
A mandatory stop on The Strand is the venerable Old Strand Emporium (2112 Strand St., 409/515-0715). The longest-running spot in the district, the Old Strand Emporium offers fresh fudge, ice cream, deli sandwiches, and cold drinks, including beers and wine. Texas foods are the specialty here, so be sure to grab a jar of salsa, a pecan praline, or some tangy barbecue sauce.
There’s no excuse to not eat seafood in Galveston; fortunately, the city is brimming with quality restaurants. After you’ve had your fill of shrimp, oysters, and snapper, try some of the Southern-style comfort food at one of the island’s tremendous neighborhood joints.
If you’re staying in a hotel on Seawall Boulevard, your inaugural meal should definitely be at Gaido’s Seafood Restaurant (3800 Seawall Blvd., 409/762-9625, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-10pm, $9-33). This venerable institution has been serving memorable meals since 1911, and its legendary reputation is evident everywhere, from the time-honored trimmings to the traditional menu to attentive service. The shrimp bisque is exquisite, the garlic snapper is succulent, and the crab cakes are outstanding.
The “jellies” on Texas’s Gulf Coast aren’t tasty fruit-filled breakfast treats. They’re jellyfish, and despite their iridescent and wiggly appearance, they’ll cause much more pain than pleasure.
One of the most common creatures washed up on the shore isn’t technically a jellyfish, despite its translucent air bubble and blue tentacles. The Portuguese man-of-war (aka the bluebubble, bluebottom, or man-of-war) is actually a colony of organisms, each with its own distinct function. Its name comes from the air bubble’s resemblance to the sails of an ancient Portuguese war vessel.
a Portuguese man-of-war
The man-of-war floats on ocean currents and is deposited ashore on Texas beaches during spring-late summer. These crafty carnivores feed on small fish and other small animals that get caught in their venom-filled tentacles. The other washed-up organisms visitors may encounter on the shoreline are traditional jellyfish—gelatinous invertebrates with varying-size tentacles hanging from the main “body” of the organism (technically referred to as the mollusk).
You won’t find an abundance of these bizarre animals on a typical beach stroll, but it’s worth keeping an eye out for them because their stings pack quite a wallop. They’re much harder to see in the water, but a good indication of their presence is the appearance of any washed-up organisms on the beach. The man-of-war is especially difficult to see since it’s translucent and often blends in with wave foam.
Aside from avoiding areas of the ocean where you see beached jellies, you’ll have to make sure you don’t step anywhere near the washed-up variety, since their stinging cells remain toxic even when the rest of the body has died. Often, the tentacles are nearly invisible, though you’ll definitely feel the sharp shot of pain jetting up your leg.
If this happens, scrape the tentacles off with a driver’s license or credit card. If a jellyfish stings you, place the affected area under hot water and apply hydrocortisone cream to relieve the itching. For a man-of-war sting, splash the area with saltwater, then apply vinegar or a diluted bleach solution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water) to the sting site without pressing too hard on the skin. The pain should go away within an hour.
Exceptional dining awaits at S Galvez Bar & Grill (2024 Seawall Blvd., 409/765-7721, www.hotelgalvez.com, daily 6:30am-11am, 11:30am-2pm, and 5pm-10pm, $12-48). Located inside the beautifully historic Hotel Galvez, the restaurant offers some of the highest-quality cuisine on the island. Menu highlights include daily fresh-caught seafood from nearby Pier 19, a sublime shrimp and polenta dish, and a grilled seafood platter with oysters, crawfish, and shrimp.
For an awesome lunch with an outstanding view, you gotta hit The Spot (3204 Seawall Blvd., 409/621-5237, www.thespotgalveston.com, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-11pm, $8-20). After a morning or afternoon of beachcombing, this is a spot-on place for a shrimp po-boy, fish-and-chips, or even a big ol’ burger. The crunchy breading and homemade rolls are what set this spot aside from others, with their perfectly crispy texture encasing fresh-flavored seafood and top-notch sandwiches. A big bonus: The 2nd-floor deck offers panoramic views of the gulf almost as tasty as the food in front of you.
A welcoming contemporary option on the island’s East End is Porch Café (1625 E. Beach Dr., 409/762-0808, www.porchcafe.com, Thurs. 5pm-10pm, Fri. 11:30am-3pm and 5pm-10pm, Sat. 9am-2pm and 5pm-10pm, Sun. 9am-2pm and 5pm-8pm, $11-30). Open and bright, Porch Café offers an ideal place to linger for a weekend brunch or early dinner. Start with a light local lager paired with gulf white ceviche (shrimp and scallops) or seafood au gratin. Follow it with a crab cake-topped salad or a sumptuous plate of seafood linguini. A post-meal stroll on the adjacent beach is a necessity.
Although it’s a regional chain, Landry’s Seafood House (5310 Seawall Blvd., 409/744-1010, www.landrysseafoodhouse.com, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-11pm, $8-29) is a respected eatery, even in a Gulf Coast town known for its local legends. Opt for the fresh catch Lafitte, gulf flounder, or broiled flounder. Landry’s also does shrimp well, including a fried option stuffed with seafood.
Specializing in the Cajun variety of seafood is Benno’s on the Beach (1200 Seawall Blvd., 409/762-4621, www.bennosofgalveston.com, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-11pm, $9-20). This is a very unassuming place—guests order at the counter beneath dim fluorescent lights and sit on hard plastic booth chairs, but as soon as the food arrives, it’s apparent where Benno’s focuses its resources. The shrimp dishes are spectacular, bursting with flavor and perfectly seasoned with Cajun spices. You also can’t go wrong with Benno’s crawfish étouffée, jambalaya, spicy crab, or oysters.
For a true oceanside dining experience, be sure to have a meal at Jimmy’s on the Pier (9001 Seawall Blvd., 409/974-4726, www.galvestonfishingpier.com, Mon.-Thurs. 11am-9pm, Fri. 11am-11pm, Sat. 10am-11pm, Sun. 10am-9pm, $8-29). At the base of the popular T-head fishing pier, Jimmy’s is a step above other pier-based gulf restaurants, offering a variety of menu items (as opposed to beach grub from a greasy grill). Try to grab a table near the edge of the deck for optimal viewing of surfside activity and a sunset. Jimmy’s food ranges from standard burgers and pizza to blackened fish and broiled oysters. Everything on the menu is above average, especially paired with a St. Arnold’s lager on tap.
One of the best restaurants in the entire region is just a few minutes from the shore at SMosquito Café (628 14th St., 409/763-1010, www.mosquitocafe.com, Tues.-Sat. 8am-9pm, Sun. 8am-3pm, $8-24). You’ll definitely want to have breakfast here at least once, and you may find yourself returning for each meal since the flavor-packed, creatively inspired, healthy food makes such an impression. Grab a hot mug of strong coffee and try to decide among the delectable options such as Mosquito Benedict (a fresh-baked scone covered with portabella mushrooms, sautéed shrimp, sun-dried tomatoes, artichoke hearts, asparagus, and poached eggs topped with serrano hollandaise sauce), cinnamon-tinged French toast, fluffy pancakes, or bagels and lox. Lunch items include hearty bowls of pasta with homemade pesto, olives, and feta cheese, or tasty sandwiches on delicious fresh-baked bread with hickory-smoked bacon, avocado salsa, and goat cheese.
While you’re on the island, be sure to have at least one meal at Farley Girls Café (801 Post Office St., 409/497-4454, www.farleygirls.com, Mon.-Fri. 10:30am-3pm, Sat.-Sun. 8:30am-3pm, $6-18). To make the most of your experience, order the menu item that perfectly captures Galveston’s Southern Gulf Coast vibe: shrimp and grits. This exquisite dish features an immensely flavorful blend of gouda and mushroom grits, sautéed spinach, and tasty grilled shrimp. If you get a chance, drop by for Farley Girls’s weekend brunch, recently named the best Sunday brunch in the Galveston Daily News.
Farley Girls Café
For a simple, low-key breakfast, lunch, or dinner, drop by the nearby neighborhood stalwart Sunflower Bakery and Cafe (512 14th St., 409/763-5500, www.thesunflowerbakeryandcafe.com, daily 7am-5pm, $5-15). You’ll find warm, soft, fresh-made bakery items (breads, pastries, desserts) and flavor-packed sandwiches (the turkey, bacon, and avocado on honey wheat bread is especially tasty) along with healthy salads and even a few eclectic daily specials. Pro tip: The tomato basil soup is a local favorite. The family-owned Sunflower has expanded its options from its humble beginnings as a modest bakery, offering a fresh and full menu complete with crab cakes, burgers, and po-boys. Incidentally, this is the perfect place to order a to-go lunch for the beach—just don’t forget to include its brownies and legendary strawberry lemonade.
What else are you going to eat in Galveston? Fresh seafood is everywhere in Galveston, and several of the best places are right on the bay just a few blocks from The Strand.
There’s something about arriving in a seaside town that creates an instant yearning for a plate of shrimp or oysters or snapper—sometimes all three—while overlooking the water. If you’re in the downtown area, satisfy this urge at the low-key yet high-quality Willie G’s (2100 Harborside, 409/762-3030, www.williegs.com, daily 11am-9pm, $9-31). Opt for bayside seating and let your ocean vacation begin. Order some peel-and-eat shrimp to start—squeeze fresh lemon on top and dip them in tangy cocktail sauce—and proceed to the fresh catch of the day, from blackened snapper to grilled flounder to fried trout. Welcome to Galveston! Next door is the larger and consistently dependable Fisherman’s Wharf (Pier 22 and Harborside Dr., 409/765-5708, daily 11am-9pm, $9-30). Red snapper is the specialty here, but feel free to cast your eyes and teeth at everything on the menu—shrimp kisses, oysters on the half shell, calamari, and even the steak and pasta are all tempting and tasty. Be sure to ask for a table with a view of the bay, where you can sit on the deck and watch the shrimp boats slowly glide by.
About a half mile inland you’ll find one of the finest (and most expensive) restaurants in town. The fabulous S Saltwater Grill (2017 Post Office St., 409/762-3474, Mon.-Fri. 11am-2pm and 5pm-10pm, Sat. 4pm-10pm, Sun. 5pm-9pm, $14-42) feels urban and spare like Houston but tastes fresh and flavorful like a Gulf Coast restaurant should. At Saltwater, fresh isn’t just an appealing adjective, it’s a genuine approach to food preparation. The restaurant utilizes a bizarre yet effective steam-kettle device that’s linked to a large heater, pipes, and steel buckets that cause water to boil in merely three minutes. The result is rapidly cooked fresh seafood as opposed to reheated or perpetually boiling (and soaking) fare. Enjoy the results on a plate of mussels, clams, or shrimp, and be sure to order the grand gumbo. Another must-taste is the appetizer dish with fried asparagus topped with crabmeat, and entrées such as the grilled yellowfin tuna, flounder, and seafood linguini. Reservations are recommended.
For those who like old-school, affordable, flavorful seafood, head to Shrimp ’n Stuff (3901 Ave. O, 409/763-2805, www.shrimpnstuff.com, daily 10:30am-8:30pm, $6-11). Skip the “stuff” and head straight for the shrimp—fried, boiled, or grilled. This is a classic local joint, where you order at the counter, get your food in a Styrofoam box, and sit in packed quarters. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself here for your next meal, drawn by another round of shrimp (prepared in a different style) and the lively atmosphere.
Step back in time at the charming and moderately priced Star Drug Store (510 23rd St., 409/766-7719, www.galvestondrug.com, daily 8:30am-3pm, $6-11). The historic neon/porcelain Coca-Cola sign out front sets the tone for this establishment, featuring an ancient (more than a century old) horseshoe-shaped lunch counter with soda fountain. Not surprisingly, the menu options are typical old-time lunch fare: burgers, Reubens, pimiento cheese sandwiches, chicken salad, dilled pasta salad, and ice-cream floats. The drugstore’s signature item is a tasty tomato-basil soup.
Despite its location on the Gulf Coast, Galveston doesn’t have a strong Cajun flavor. That’s not the case at Little Daddy’s Gumbo Bar (2105 Post Office St., 409/744-8626, daily 11am-9:30pm, $9-19). The tasty seafood gumbo, packed with oysters, shrimp, and crab, is worth the trip. For something heartier, feast on the meaty Mumbo Gumbo, a concoction of sausage, prime rib, and chicken. Bon temps!
It’s totally worth making the five-mile drive west of downtown for the incredible food and views at S Number 13 Prime Steak and Seafood (7809 Broadway Ave., 409/572-2650, www.number13steak.com, Tues.-Thurs. 4pm-9pm, Fri. 4pm-10pm, Sat. 11am-10pm, Sun. 11am-9pm, $12-49). Number 13 elevates the traditional surf and turf concept to haute cuisine. Steaks are available in wet-aged and dry-aged variety (the bone-in rib eye rivals Houston’s best steak houses), and the seafood ranges from iron-seared salmon to oak-grilled snapper. The wine list is top-notch, and the baked Alaska dessert is simply sublime.
For a step up from the standard touristy seafood joints, head to Waterman’s Restaurant (14302 Stewart Rd., 409/632-0233 www.waterman-galveston.com, Tues.-Thurs. 4pm-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-10pm, Sun. 11am-9pm, $11-34). There isn’t anything too out of the ordinary here, but the quality is noteworthy—each bite of seafood is perfectly prepared and packed with flavor. Waterman’s specializes in snapper (go with the Texas option: pecan and crabmeat). If you’re not in the mood for fish, the flame-kissed Waterman Burger is an ideal back-up plan.
Galveston’s popularity as a tourist destination means there’s no shortage of lodging options. From cheap beachside motels to luxurious historic resorts, the island has something for everyone.
For most visitors, the best way to experience an island vacation is on the shoreline. Though the following selection of hotels aren’t technically on the beach—you’ll have to cross busy Seawall Boulevard to get your toes in the sand—they’re close enough to smell the salty air and see the sailboats and barges.
At the affordable end of the scale is the no-frills yet dependable Gaido’s Seaside Inn (3700 Seawall Blvd., 409/762-9625, www.gaidosofgalveston.com, $99 d). Gaido’s is perhaps best known for its incredible adjacent seafood restaurant, but the hotel has some tasty amenities, too, including a free continental breakfast, an outdoor pool with splash shower, and free coffee and juice in the lobby. Another well-regarded local establishment is the nearby Commodore on the Beach (3618 Seawall Blvd., 409/763-2375, www.commodoreonthebeach.com, $109 d). The Commodore features rooms with balconies facing the beach, a large pool with a welcoming cascading fountain, and several complimentary services, including wireless Internet access, continental breakfast, coffee and juice, and late-afternoon cookies.
Some travelers value the comfort and familiarity of chain hotels, and, although the corporate options are nearly outnumbered by independent establishments on Seawall, there are several offering competitive rates and reliable service. Among them is La Quinta East Beach (1402 Seawall Blvd., 409/763-1224, www.lq.com, $149 d), featuring an outdoor pool along with a free continental breakfast and Internet access. Though the accommodations aren’t luxurious, there’s something very appealing about the comfy beach-town vibe here and especially the ocean view (and smell) directly outside your hotel room door. Another option farther down the island is Red Roof Inn Beachfront Palms Hotel (5914 Seawall Blvd., 409/740-1261, www.redroof.com, $145 d), offering a free continental breakfast, Internet access, and free cappuccino and hot chocolate. The Red Roof Inn also claims to have the only heated pool on the island.
Those willing to drop a little extra cash for a truly memorable vacation experience should consider the remarkable S Hotel Galvez (2024 Seawall Blvd., 409/765-7721, www.hotelgalvez.com, $269 d), a Wyndham Grand Hotel. Known as the “Queen of the Gulf” when it opened in 1911, the Galvez is stunning in its Victorian elegance. Luxurious amenities include a pool with swim-up bar, marble bathrooms, wireless Internet access, and an impressive spa and workout facility.
Hotel Galvez offers luxurious lodging on the shoreline.
Not nearly as historic yet conveniently located adjacent to the fun-filled Moody Gardens is the fancy Moody Gardens Hotel (7 Hope Blvd., 888/388-8484, www.moodygardenshotel.com, $249 d). After a day of exploring cultural attractions in the adjacent pyramids, unwind at the recently upgraded hotel with free Wi-Fi, plush bathrobes, and quality linens. Other amenities include an outdoor heated swimming pool with Jacuzzi and swim-up bar, an indoor lap pool, a full-service spa and salon, a 24-hour fitness center, an outdoor jogging track and sand volleyball courts, and a free weekend shuttle service to the Strand district. Similarly stylish is the Hilton Galveston Island Resort (5400 Seawall Blvd., 409/744-5000, www.galvestonhilton.com, $329 d), featuring large rooms with plush robes, Wi-Fi service, gulf-view rooms with private balconies, a tropically landscaped pool with a swim-up bar, and a fitness center.
If you’d rather be within walking distance of shopping than seashells, make reservations at the exquisite S Tremont House (2300 Ship’s Mechanic Row, 409/763-0300, www.wyndham.com, $269 d). Located in the heart of the Strand historic commercial district, the Italianate-style Tremont is a stunning hotel that transports guests to Galveston’s heyday as the “Wall Street of the South.” The first things you’ll notice in the rooms are the lofty 14-foot ceilings and incredibly tall windows. Wrought-iron beds, marble bathrooms, antique furnishings, and a stylish black-and-white color scheme add to the elegant environment. Modern touches include free wireless Internet access and Web TV.
Just down the street is the Harbor House (28 Pier #21, 409/763-3321, www.harborhousepier21.com, $289 d), which is fancy in a completely different way. It’s not historic, but the Harbor House offers an amazing vantage point of the busy harbor and bustling marina activity. One of the best seafood restaurants in town (Willie G’s) is across the street, and the hotel provides free passes to a nearby fitness center. Amenities include wireless Internet access and a free continental breakfast.
With so many impressive historic structures in a pedestrian-friendly vacation environment, Galveston is an ideal place to stay in a B&B.
Ranked as Galveston’s most popular bed and breakfast—for good reason—is the magnificent S Lasker Inn (1019 16th St., 409/497-4318, www.laskerinn.com, rooms start at $219). Located in one of Galveston’s celebrated historic residential districts, the 1870 home originally served as a refuge for homeless children after the 1900 storm. The same sense of caring hospitality endures at the Lasker, where guests enjoy top-notch service and accommodations, including luxury bedding, elegant furnishings, and exquisite breakfasts featuring inventive egg dishes, fresh fruit, and high-quality coffee.
The Lasker Inn is one of Galveston’s most popular lodging options.
Another popular option is Avenue O Bed and Breakfast (2323 Ave. O, 409/457-4255, www.avenueo.com, rooms start at $119), just a few blocks away from the beach. This 1923 Mediterranean-style home sits on a sizable piece of property surrounded by tropical foliage. Breakfasts are hearty here, and snacks are available throughout the day. Avenue O also provides bikes for island excursions.
If you prefer lodging in an RV or tent, you’ll enjoy Galveston Island State Park (14901 FM 3005, 409/737-1222, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, $5 ages 13 and up, camping fees $15-25 per night). On the west end of Galveston Island about 10 miles from town, Galveston Island State Park offers 2,000 acres of natural beauty along the Gulf Coast. Even if you aren’t planning to spend the night, the park is a great place for swimming, hiking, bird-watching, and mountain biking. Educational tours of the coastline’s native plants and animals are available by appointment—contact the park to make arrangements. Expect to encounter and learn about trout, redfish, croaker, and flounder as well as tropical birds, ducks, marsh rabbits, and armadillos.
Park facilities include four miles of hike and bike trails, an interpretive center and nature trail, a concrete boat ramp, a fish-cleaning shelter, campsites with water and electricity, screened camping shelters, restrooms with showers, outdoor showers, picnic sites, and Wi-Fi access. The park contains 140 campsites with electricity and water hookups, and 10 screened shelters.
Less scenic yet more centrally located is the Bayou Shores RV Resort (6310 Heards Ln., 409/744-2837). Just off the causeway, the RV park offers standard hookups as well as a fishing pier and exercise facility.
The Galveston Island Convention and Visitors Bureau (2328 Broadway Ave., 409/797-5144, daily 9am-5pm, www.galveston.com) offers brochures and maps with friendly staff on hand to answer questions. The website is information-packed and user-friendly. Contact the Galveston Historical Foundation (2228 Broadway, 409/765-7834, www.galvestonhistory.org) for information about the island’s impressive historic attractions.
The only way to get to Galveston is via I-45. From Houston, it usually takes about an hour depending on the time of day and traffic. Once you reach the island, your only real option is to turn onto Highway 87, which becomes Broadway Avenue.
Brazosport isn’t a town name, but a collection of eight Brazoria County communities southwest of Galveston offering an unassuming mix of lightly developed beachfront and petrochemical plants. It’s not as bad as it sounds—the beaches are pleasantly uncrowded (most days), and the factories are beyond the shoreline’s viewscape. For the record, the Brazosport communities are Clute, Freeport, Jones Creek, Lake Jackson, Oyster Creek, Quintana Beach, Richwood, and Surfside Beach.
The area is rich in Texas history, with the state’s earliest explorers landing on nearby beaches nearly 500 years ago and Stephen F. Austin’s first colony settling along the rich bottomlands of the Brazos, Colorado, and San Bernard Rivers in the early 19th century. The venerable Texas term “Old Three Hundred” refers to the 300 settlers who received land grants for Austin’s first colony, where each family received up to 4,000 acres of fertile farm and ranch property in the area.
The massive Gulf Intracoastal Waterway carves a path along the coastal lowlands. This commercial boating canal, constructed in the 1940s, is considered the most valuable waterway in the country, transporting as much tonnage annually as the Panama Canal. The protected waterway stretches more than 1,000 miles from Brownsville to Florida.
Visitors to the Brazosport region enjoy the small-town specialty and antiques shops, beach home rentals, and casual ocean-based recreation. Drive, walk, or swim along the 21-mile stretch of beach or watch the seagulls and ocean barges lazily glide by. Other popular recreational activities include fresh- and saltwater fishing, boating, crabbing, and surfing.
For a destination comprised of a collection of communities, the Brazosport Area offers an intriguing mix of cultural attractions. Fortunately, the communities are within a roughly 20-minute drive of each other, so getting from one place to another takes the same amount of time as it does in a big city, just without the traffic (or lights).
A must-see attraction in the Brazosport Area is the spectacular Sea Center Texas (300 Medical Dr., Lake Jackson, 979/292-0100, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, Tues.-Sat. 9am-4pm, Sun. 1pm-4pm, free). Sea Center Texas is a multiuse facility combining several aquariums, an education center, and a fish hatchery along with an outdoor wetland exhibit and a kids’ fishing pond. The education center’s main exhibit is a 50,000-gallon aquarium containing Gulf of Mexico marine animals such as nurse sharks, Atlantic spadefish, red drum, gray snapper, and an enormous moray eel. Other large aquariums house tropical species found in area salt marshes, coastal bays, jetties, and artificial and coral reefs. Kids will love the center’s “touch pool,” where they can gently handle marine animals such as several varieties of crabs, snails, and anemones. Outside, the wetland exhibit is accessible by a long boardwalk over several marsh areas. Families can bring along a nature checklist and activity book to identify species in the area, including green tree frogs, turtles, and a wide variety of birds. The adjacent hatchery has the capacity to produce 20 million fingerlings each year (mostly spotted sea trout and red drum) for release into Texas coastal waters. Tours are available by reservation only.
Regional culture converges at The Center for the Arts & Sciences (400 College Blvd., Clute, 979/265-7661, www.bcfas.org, Tues.-Sat. 10am-4pm, Sun. 2pm-5pm, free). This all-inclusive facility is home to the Brazosport Art League, the Brazosport Museum of Natural Science, the Center Stages Theater, and the Brazosport Planetarium. With so many cultural activities sharing space under one roof, you’ll find an amazing array of attractions, from a colossal collection of seashells to an art gallery and studio to a theater staging regional productions. Perhaps most impressive is the natural science museum, containing wildlife, fossils, and an aquarium. Be sure to check out the exhibit featuring the lightning whelk (Texas’s state shell) and the planetarium, which offers public viewings and previously served as a training facility for astronauts from NASA’s nearby Johnson Space Center.
Visitors strolling beneath outstretched oaks are immediately swept into a bygone world of Southern heritage at Varner-Hogg Plantation (1702 N. 13th St., West Columbia, 979/345-4656, www.visitvarnerhoggplantation.com, Tues.-Sun. 9am-5pm, $4 adults, $3 students). There’s an undeniable charm to the lush grounds and distinguished historic buildings, occupied for most of the 1900s by the larger-than-life Hogg family, including the incredibly unfortunately named Miss Ima Hogg.
The site, owned by the Texas Historical Commission, showcases the Hogg family’s remarkable 19th-century furnishings acquired from profits associated with the tremendous oil reserves discovered in the 1920s (at one point bringing in nearly $40,000 daily). Recently, efforts have turned toward the era of Columbus Patton, the plantation’s second owner (following site namesake Martin Varner). During insightful tours of the historic plantation home, held six times daily, knowledgeable guides educate visitors about the legacies of the three families connected to the property: Varner, Patton, and Hogg.
The sizable Brazoria National Wildlife Refuge (24907 FM 2004, Angleton, 979/964-4011, www.fws.gov) contains protected habitats offering safe harbor for animals, particularly birds. Its prime location on the Gulf Coast draws more than 200 bird species, one of the highest counts in the nation. In winter, more than 100,000 snow geese, Canadian geese, teal, ducks, and sandhill cranes fill the numerous ponds and sloughs. In summer you’ll find herons, egrets, white ibis, spoonbills, seaside sparrows, and scissor-tailed flycatchers. Alligators occupy the refuge year-round on Big Slough and in ponds. Look for their trails through the mud and “gator holes” in drier months.
The other major refuge in the Brazosport Area is San Bernard National Wildlife Refuge (6801 County Rd. 306, Brazoria, 979/849-6062, www.fws.gov). This 24,000-acre protected area is a haven for snow geese, warblers, herons, egrets, ibis, gulls, and terns. Most of the refuge is closed to the public, but the accessible three-mile car tour and several miles of hiking trails offer access to high-quality wildlife viewing.
There’s something appealing about a low-profile beach. The words “Brazosport Area beaches” don’t always prompt excitement or envy. And sometimes, that’s exactly what visitors are seeking. Granted, these beaches can get crowded on summer weekends, but they’re certainly not major tourist destinations. At Surfside and Bryan, the swimsuits are a couple seasons out of style, the beachcombers’ bodies aren’t designed for a Sports Illustrated cover, and the vibe is easy breezy.
If you don’t mind a petrochemical plant just a mile away (fortunately not dominating the viewscape), Surfside Beach (979/233-1531, www.surfsidetx.org) is a delightful getaway for some low-key recreational activity. Though most of the folks are Houston residents looking for a respite from the Galveston crowds, you’ll find other beach lovers here from across the state seeking similar solace. Popular Surfside Beach pastimes include fishing, swimming, sailing, camping, and shell collecting. For information about the village of Surfside Beach, including restaurants, shops, and lodgings, call or visit the website.
Just a few miles away near the community of Freeport is Bryan Beach, another casual, scenic stretch of surf and sand. Grab a bucket for some sand dollar collecting, a pole for shallow surf fishing, or a towel and sunscreen for sunbathing. Primitive campsites are available nearby. To reach the beach from Freeport, travel two miles southwest of town on FM 1495, then head three miles south on Gulf Beach Road.
Two of the most popular recreational activities in the Brazosport Area are swimming and birding. However, fishing is one of the top draws, and kayaking and canoeing are emerging as viable options.
Brazosport offers a multitude of facilities for fishing, either inshore or deep-sea. If you choose to keep your feet on the ground, there are plenty of jetties, piers, and beaches where you can cast a line for speckled trout, flounder, redfish, sheepshead, and gafftop. Nearby marinas and beachside shacks sell tackle and bait. For deep-sea fishing, you can hire a service to provide charter boats to take you out farther for big-time catches including snapper, marlin, king mackerel, and sailfish. Two reputable outfits are Easy Going Charters (979/233-2947, www.easygulffishing.com), which can accommodate up to six people on its 35-foot-long boat, and Johnston’s Sportfishing (979/233-8513).
A popular place to spend a weekend of fishing, camping, and lounging is Quintana Beach County Park (979/233-1461, www.brazoriacountyparks.com), on a picturesque barrier island near Freeport. The park’s multilevel fishing pier is a favorite among anglers, and the day-use facilities include shaded pavilions, restrooms, showers, and the historic Coveney House, containing a museum and natural history display. The camping sites include full hookups, showers, and laundry facilities. From Freeport, take FM 1495 south nearly two miles to County Road 723, then head east three miles to the park entrance.
For some low-impact coastal kayaking or canoeing, give yourself a gift and head to the Christmas Bay Paddling Trail (515 Amigo Ln., Freeport, 979/233-5159, www.tpwd.state.tx.us). The trail is about 19 miles long, with a 4-mile option. Known for its fishing and birding opportunities, the Christmas Bay Trail also has extensive oyster reefs and a salt marsh.
Another good area to explore via kayak is the Brazos River Trail Gulf Prairie Run (www.houstonwilderness.org). Part of a 125-mile system stretching upriver to Houston, the water trail winds through the dense bottomlands, towering trees, and palmetto thickets. Paddlers can experience a wide variety of wildlife species and migrating birds. Launch points in the Brazosport Area are Brazos River County Park in Angleton and Wilderness Park in Lake Jackson.
Let’s assume you’ll be spending most of your time at the beach. And we can presume you’ll also be hungry at some point. The good news is, Surfside Beach has several good vacation-style eateries. The best of the bunch is the Red Snapper Inn (402 Bluewater Hwy., 979/239-3226, www.redsnapperinn.com, Mon.-Fri. 11am-2pm and 5pm-9pm, Sat.-Sun. 11am-9pm, $9-25). This quality surf and turf restaurant is best known for its seafood items, including the grilled boneless flounder stuffed with crabmeat dressing, the fried soft-shell crabs with rémoulade sauce, bacon-wrapped oysters, and sautéed garlic shrimp. Turf-wise, most diners opt for the spaghetti and charbroiled Greek-style meatballs or the classic chicken-fried steak.
One of the newest eateries in Surfside Beach doesn’t have the greatest food. But it certainly has the greatest view, and sometimes that’s a deciding factor. Pirate’s Alley Cafe (310 Ocean Ave., 979/239-2233, www.piratesalleytx.com, Mon.-Fri. 11am-2pm and 5pm-9pm, Sat.-Sun. 8am-8pm, $5-15) has the best deck on the beach, featuring dozens of tables overlooking the surf and sand. It’s the food that isn’t quite as stunning. However, if you arrive with realistic expectations, you won’t be disappointed. For example, instead of anticipating an award-winning gulfside seafood meal, look to enjoy a cold beer and hearty burger on the porch. Rather than a fancy breakfast, opt for a hot coffee and bagel.
Just around the corner, you can’t miss Kitty’s Purple Cow (323 Ocean Ave., 979/233-9161, Mon.-Fri. 10am-9pm, Sat.-Sun. 7:30am-9pm, $4-10). The food isn’t quite as attention grabbing as the restaurant’s facade, a distractingly purple building just a block off the beach; regardless, Kitty’s specializes in tasty meaty burgers and even a little seafood (boiled shrimp) from the unfortunately named “app-moo-tizers” menu. Breakfast options include hearty portions of biscuits and gravy and standard egg dishes.
Any beach town worth its weight in sand dollars has a place where locals loiter. Here it’s the low-key Jetty Shack (412 Parkview St., 979/233-5300, daily 10am-11:45pm, $6-14), a beachside dive offering a tasty Angus burger, plenty of fried food, grilled cheese, and cold beer.
Here’s a nice change of pace: The Brazosport Area is overrun with local lodging options, with just a few garish hotel chain signs in sight. Independently owned hotels are the norm, and many travelers opt to rent a beach house or cabin for the weekend.
Those looking for a clean, comfy place to stay within walking distance of the beach should consider the Ocean Village Hotel (310 Ocean Village Dr., Surfside Beach, 979/239-1213, www.oceanvillagehotel.com, rooms start at $99). One of Surfside Beach’s newest hotels is the Ocean Village, a nice spot with several amenities not found at other accommodations in the area; namely, direct beach access and an attached restaurant and bar (Pirate’s Alley Cafe). The hotel offers ocean-view rooms with large private decks, free Wi-Fi, pet-friendly rooms, and extended-stay suites with kitchens.
More casual and representative of many of the sun-bleached, wind-worn, slightly shabby beach hotels is Surfside Motel (330 Coral Ct., Surfside Beach, 979/233-4948, www.surfsidemotel.biz, $65-120). The motel offers kitchenette units with two queen-size beds, one twin bed, and a full kitchen, or two-room suites with one queen-size bed, a pullout bed, small refrigerator, and microwave. Check with the front desk if you need beach towels, board games, or horseshoes.
Of course, chain hotels provide reliable consistency for some travelers, so if slightly shabby isn’t your thing, you’ll have to venture four miles off the coast to the nearby community of Clute. The best option is La Quinta (1126 Hwy. 332 W., Clute, 979/265-7461, www.lq.com, $75 d), featuring free wireless Internet access, a free continental breakfast, and an outdoor pool. Another fine choice is Holiday Inn Express (1117 Hwy. 332 W., Clute, 979/266-8746, www.hiexpress.com, $111 d), offering wireless Internet access, a workout facility, and a free continental breakfast.
Hundreds of rooms are available in cabins and beach homes along the gulf in the Brazosport Area. The best way to find something that fits your specific needs (pets, kids, weekends, beach access, etc.) is to contact a rental locating service. Two of the more commendable outlets in the area are Beach Resort Services (800/382-9283, www.beachresortservices.com) and Brannan Resort Rentals, Inc. (979/233-1812, www.brri.com). For a comprehensive list of companies, visit the following visitor-related sites: www.visitbrazosport.com and www.surfsidetx.org.
Families and RVers make repeated returns to Quintana Beach County Park (979/233-1461, www.brazoriacountyparks.com, $15-27), featuring 56 paved and level camping sites, full hookups, primitive tent sites, a bathhouse with restrooms, showers, and laundry facilities. Cabins—complete with TVs, microwaves, kitchenettes, and charming wooden detailing—are also available for rent, ranging $135-160, depending on the season.
A popular option for anglers is Surfside Beach RV Park (102 Fort Velesco Dr., 979/233-6919, www.surfsidebeachrv.com, $25-30), offering full hookup RV sites, free parking for fishing boats, an on-site laundry, and free wireless Internet access.
The Brazosport Convention and Visitors Council (main office at 300 Abner Jackson Pkwy., Lake Jackson, 979/285-2501 or 888/477-2505, www.brazosport.org, Mon.-Fri. 9am-5pm) provides details on area attractions, accommodations, and restaurants, and brochures and maps to help you find your way around.
From Houston, take Highway 288 south for about 45 minutes to Lake Jackson. From there, take Highway 332 east for about 15 minutes to reach the beach.
Corpus Christi (population 324,074) is the largest city on Texas’s Gulf Coast, and it’s one of the most popular destinations in the state for seaside recreation, including fishing, sailing, swimming, and windsurfing.
The city has experienced a precipitous history, with drought, conflicts with Native American tribes, and various wars preventing settlements from taking hold until the mid-1800s, when a trading post was established and a small village developed that eventually became known as Corpus Christi, which translates as “the Body of Christ.” Just when the town started growing, a yellow fever epidemic decimated the population, and it was subsequently plagued for decades by the lack of a deepwater port.
In 1916 and 1919, torrential storms destroyed portions of the city, erasing grand hotels and palatial homes. As a result, Corpus Christi, dubbed the “Sparkling City by the Bay,” can appear historically lackluster, with a deficiency of significant structures reflecting its heritage. Regardless, historic homes and churches still exist in downtown neighborhoods unaffected by hurricanes and wrecking balls.
By the middle of the 20th century, Corpus, as it’s known throughout the state, became a major petroleum and shipping center, with coastal shipments of gasoline, crude petroleum, and natural gas bringing increased corporate activity. Also contributing to the economy were the military bases and the petroleum and petrochemical industry, particularly the six refineries making good use of the approximately 1,500 oil wells in the area.
Despite its fairly large population, Corpus retains the feel of a small city, albeit one with remarkable museums and top-notch seafood restaurants. Corpus Christi’s mild year-round temperatures and inviting tropical climate draw visitors from across the country to its cultural and recreational opportunities and abundant sunshine glistening on this “Sparkling City by the Bay.”
The magnificent Texas State Aquarium (2710 N. Shoreline Blvd., 361/881-1200, www.texasstateaquarium.org, Mon-Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. 10am-5pm, $25 adults, $22 seniors, $18 children ages 3-12) offers an ideal way to take a quick break from the beach while still being surrounded by the region’s fascinating natural resources. The layout of the aquarium is rather clever, leading visitors into Texas’s marine world at sea level with exhibits containing birds, alligators, and stingrays, and proceeding to explore the Gulf of Mexico at sequentially deeper levels. One of the aquarium’s main exhibits showcases menacing sharks, a 350-pound grouper, and hundreds of other species as they slither and glide around the barnacle-encrusted poles of a replicated offshore oil rig. The 350,000-gallon Dolphin Bay habitat uses seawater from Corpus Christi Bay for the Atlantic bottlenose dolphins that cannot live in the wild. A shaded seating area provides respite from the relentless sun for daily interpretive programs, and a lengthy viewing window allows visitors to get nose to nose with the dolphins. Other popular exhibits include Otter Space, featuring the frisky fellas cavorting on slides and in pools, and Living Shores, allowing kids to handle nonthreatening sea creatures. The aquarium expanded to include terrestrial critters, particularly in the Amazon rainforest exhibit, containing boa constrictors and poison dart frogs, and in the bird theater, featuring “flight performances” by hawks, falcons, and parrots. The aquarium also features Swamp Tales, an exhibit dedicated to conservation efforts in the region, especially with American alligators like Bo, the museum’s featured 10-foot ’gator.
the Texas State Aquarium in Corpus Christi
You can’t miss the massive USS Lexington Museum (2914 N. Shoreline Blvd., 361/888-4873, www.usslexington.com, Labor Day-Memorial Day daily 9am-5pm, until 6pm in summer, $15 adults, $13 seniors/military, $10 children ages 4-12). Looming large in the Corpus Christi Bay, the USS Lexington was the nation’s longest-serving aircraft carrier. This decommissioned World War II vessel is now a 33,000-ton floating museum, transporting visitors back in time with tours of the ship’s decks and quarters, educational exhibits, restored aircraft, a high-tech flight simulator, and a collection of historical memorabilia. The ship served until 1991, when it found a permanent home in Corpus Christi Bay. Its relatively recent use gives visitors an authentic feel for life aboard the ship through details such as computer monitors, barbershop chairs, and chow line. The best way to experience the Lexington is on one of the self-guided tours covering 100,000 square feet on 11 decks. The highlight is the flight deck, where you can take your time strolling across the massive former runway while viewing impressive vintage and modern warbirds with a scenic backdrop of the bay and city skyline.
The USS Lexington serves as a naval museum.
To get a better sense of the area’s colorful past, drop by the Corpus Christi Museum of Science and History (1900 N. Chaparral St., 361/826-4667, www.ccmuseum.com, Tues.-Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. noon-5pm, $11 adults, $8 seniors, $9 children ages 3-12). The museum features myriad educational exhibits emphasizing the Gulf Coast’s relation to the natural and cultural world. Particularly fascinating is the Ships of Christopher Columbus exhibit, featuring authentic reproductions of the Niña, Pinta, and Santa Maria. The three vessels, located outside the museum and accessible to visitors, were built in Spain to commemorate the 500th anniversary of Christopher Columbus’s voyage to the New World. Each ship was made with authentic 15th-century materials such as hand-forged nails and wood from the same forests used for Columbus’s ships. The museum’s other noteworthy exhibits are also maritime related, including an interactive shipwreck display containing artifacts from three Spanish treasure ships that ran aground on Padre Island in 1554, an exhibit featuring artifacts related to French explorer Robert Cavelier, Sieur de La Salle’s ill-fated La Belle shipwreck, and the Children’s Wharf, a bustling learning area for youngsters. The remainder of the museum contains a comprehensive collection of more than 28,000 objects (shells, Native American crafts, bird and reptile eggs) representing the history and culture of South Texas.
Just down the street from the science museum is the city’s Heritage Park (1581 N. Chaparral St., 361/826-3410, www.cctexas.com, Tues.-Thurs. 9am-5pm, Fri. 9am-2pm). These 12 restored Victorian-era historic homes were moved to the city’s cultural area to protect them from being demolished and to showcase the city’s diverse past. The centerpiece is the Cultural Center’s Galván House, open for free tours.
Also in the city’s cultural district is the Asian Cultures Museum (1809 N. Chaparral St., 361/882-2641, www.asianculturesmuseum.org, Tues.-Sat. 11am-5pm, $6 adults, $4 students, $3 children ages 12 and under), offering an interesting array of objects and artwork from across the Pacific. What started as a local resident’s personal collection of cultural objects has evolved into a full-fledged museum containing thousands of items representing nearly a dozen Asian countries. Billie Trimble Chandler spent decades as a teacher and art collector in Asia, and she brought items back to share with Corpus residents and to educate them about faraway lands. Since then, the museum has grown to include clothing, furniture, paintings, dolls, statues, and other art objects from Japan, Korea, China, the Philippines, and Taiwan. The museum also features international traveling exhibits and offers educational classes for students and the general public.
Latin-music fans often make a pilgrimage to the Selena Museum (5410 Leopard St., 361/289-9013, www.q-productions.com, Mon.-Fri. 10am-4pm, $3). It’s not an easy place to find, however. The museum is downtown just off I-37 in a warehouse-type building with no sign (look for the painted mural of Selena on the outside) and was created by Corpus resident Abraham Quintanilla to honor the memory of his daughter, the famous Tejana singer who was killed by the president of her fan club in 1995. The museum showcases many of Selena’s personal memorabilia, including the outfits and dresses she designed and wore at concerts, her red Porsche, penciled sketches, her prized egg collection, and letters of sympathy from fans across the world.
Culture converges at the Art Museum of South Texas (1902 N. Shoreline Blvd., 361/825-3500, www.stia.org, Tues.-Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. 1pm-5pm, $8 adults, $6 seniors and military, $4 students ages 12 and up). The three-story building is unmistakable, with bright white concrete walls and 13 rooftop pyramids overlooking the bay. Inside, you’ll find several galleries showcasing the museum’s 1,300 works of art, primarily paintings and sculpture representing the Americas with a focus on Texas, Mexico, and the Southwest. The museum also contains an interactive kids’ playroom, classrooms, studios, a gift shop, and an auditorium.
Those who want to appreciate the area’s natural beauty beyond the beach should visit the Corpus Christi Botanical Gardens and Nature Center (8545 S. Staples St., 361/852-2100, www.stxbot.org, daily 9am-6pm, $7 adults, $6 seniors and military, $3 children ages 5-12). Exotic gardens and perfectly landscaped lawns await visitors at this popular attraction, which takes full advantage of its tropical climate to produce vibrant colors and lush landscapes. One of the center’s showpieces is the Rose Garden, featuring 300 roses, a large pavilion, and a beautiful lightly lapping fountain. Other noteworthy areas are the hummingbird garden, the orchid garden with 2,500 flowering plants, and the hibiscus garden.
If you’re staying downtown and need a quick beach fix, go to Corpus Christi Beach (just north of the USS Lexington, 361/880-3480). It’s not quite picturesque, and the shoreline sand is pretty coarse, but it’s great for a leisurely stroll or swim with a pleasant view of Corpus Christi Bay. You’ll see lots of local families playing in the sand or flying kites, and there are several spots offering rinse-off showers, restrooms, and small cabana huts with picnic tables. Much smaller in size yet within walking distance of downtown hotels is Magee Beach (Shoreline Blvd. at Park St., 361/880-3461). This 250-yard stretch of sand on the bay isn’t designed for shell collecting, but it’s a good place to get your feet wet without worrying about them being pulled away by the undertow you’ll encounter on the larger ocean beaches. Showers and restrooms are located on the north end of the beach.
Corpus Christi Beach
Kayakers are increasingly flocking to Corpus Christi for the variety of options and conditions. The two primary options—saltwater kayaking and bay paddling—offer beginners and experienced paddlers a fun way to spend a few hours on the water.
Saltwater kayaking, aka sea kayaking, is typically more difficult, since it can involve choppy and unpredictable conditions. Regardless, it’s often more fun, since the waves don’t tend to reach intimidating or dangerous heights, and the routes can be longer and less restricted.
Bay paddling is ideal for beginning kayakers, offering calmer conditions and shorter trail options. A good starting point is the Mustang Island State Park Paddling Trail (www.tpwd.state.tx.us), offering several routes ranging from the 5-mile Shamrock Loop to the 8.5-mile North Trail, which meander through coves and marshes. The park’s Ashum Trail (nearly 7 miles) traces the Corpus Christi Bay shoreline, offering quality birding and fishing opportunities.
Rental and tour options are available at Coastal Bend Kayak (1125 S. Commercial St., Aransas Pass, 361/557-7003, www.coastalbendkayaking.com).
Corpus is a major destination for anglers, and there are plenty of locations and services to accommodate them. You’ll find them with poles anchored in the sand at several city beaches, including Corpus Christi Beach, where fishers often gather at the Nueces Bay Pier at the end of Hull Street. Lines are also cast along the bay on the massive concrete downtown piers (known locally as T-heads), several spots along the seawall, and at lighted breakwater jetties. Another popular spot is Bob Hall Pier (15820 Park Rd. 22, 361/949-0499, www.bobhallpier.org) at Padre Balli Park on North Padre Island. Its prime location and abundance of fish species (tarpon, mackerel, redfish, and even shark) have drawn anglers to this venerable and productive spot since the 1950s.
If you’d rather get out to sea for some big-game fishing, contact a charter or rental company to set you up with all the gear, guides, and good advice you’d ever want. Deep-sea boats are available for those who want to troll for Gulf of Mexico species such as marlin, sailfish, tuna, and kingfish. Reputable companies include C&T Bay Charters (1031 Whispering Sands, Port Aransas, 888/227-9172, www.ctbaycharters.com) and Port Aransas-based Deep Sea Headquarters (416 W. Cotter Ave., 361/749-5597, www.deepseaheadquarters.com), providing private excursions to anglers of all ages and skill levels.
Thanks to its constant easy breeze (averaging 15-20 mph), Corpus is a mecca for windsurfers. Although some try their sails on the bay at city locales like Cole Park (near the 2000 block of Ocean Dr., restrooms available), most windsurfers head to North Padre Island, particularly Bird Island Basin at the Padre Island National Seashore. This half-mile stretch of beach is internationally recognized as one of the top windsurfing sites on the U.S. mainland. If you’ve never grabbed hold of a sail, this is the best place to learn since there’s always a breeze a blowin’. To set yourself up with all the gear, contact Worldwinds Windsurfing (11493 S. Padre Island Dr., 361/949-7472, www.worldwinds.net) or Wind & Wave Water Sports (10721 S. Padre Island Dr., 361/937-9283, www.windandwave.net).
Recreational opportunities in Corpus are almost exclusively water-based. With so many options available in the bay and gulf, the development of organized land-based trails for hiking and biking has not been a priority for government entities or private organizations.
Regardless, there are a couple trails available for those in search of something more inspiring than the hotel treadmill. The city’s primary option is known as the Bay Trail (www.ccparkandrec.com), an eight-mile route hugging the namesake bay. It’s an extremely scenic option, offering views of downtown buildings, tourist attractions, and bird habitats.
Another option is the hike and bike trail on the campus of Texas A&M Corpus Christi (www.tamucc.edu). Although students and faculty primarily populate the three-mile route, it’s open to the public and offers a well-lit paved path for safety.
Have you ever wanted to ride a horse on the beach, with the waves gently crashing at your trusty steed’s feet as the ocean breeze whips through your hair? Then gallop over to Horses on the Beach (16562 S. Padre Island Dr., 361/443-4487, www.horsesonthebeachcorpus.com, several rides offered daily, reservations required), just north of Padre Island National Seashore. Horses are available for first-timers, children, and experienced riders, and the stable owners also handle lessons. You’re welcome to walk, trot, or ride your horse into the surf.
Though many visitors choose to sip their cocktails on the beach or in the hotel bar, there are options available for the adventurous souls who want to see some live music or perhaps even mingle with the locals. The best place to soak up the scene without feeling like an outsider is the downtown Executive Surf Club (309 N. Water St., 361/884-7873, www.executivesurfclub.com). Adjacent to the Water Street Seafood Co., the Surf Club’s decor reflects its name, with vintage surfboards on the walls and refurbished as tables. The scene is lively yet casual, with live music most nights (mainly Texas rock and blues acts, often with a cover charge), more than 30 beers on tap, and a kitchen serving up tasty grub. Another visitor-friendly spot is the decidedly more upscale Republic of Texas Bar & Grill (900 N. Shoreline Blvd., 361/886-3515, www.omnihotels.com/republic). Sitting atop the 20th floor of the Omni Bayfront hotel, the Republic of Texas is dimly lit and heavily wooded in a welcoming way. The views of the bay and city are outstanding, the drinks are expertly made, and the pianist provides a perfect soundtrack. Grab a Scotch, margarita, or draft beer and soak up the surrounding scenery.
Veering in a local direction is the younger and more boisterous Rockit’s Whiskey Bar & Saloon (709 N. Chaparral St., 361/884-7634, www.rockitscc.com). Located along a formerly vibrant stretch of Chaparral Street in the heart of downtown, Dr. Rockit’s is still thriving, and it’s still all about the blues. Live bands from Corpus and across the state play here nightly, and the place can get pretty rockin’ when the bands get rollin’. Check the website for a live music schedule and cover charges. For something a little more trendy, consider dropping by Havana Club (500 N. Water St., 361/271-7770). Havana is the place to go for salsa dancing, live jazz bands, and DJs spinning club music. The club’s motto is “Enjoy your life!” So plan accordingly.
The grande dame of Corpus Christi’s performing arts scene is Corpus Christi Ballet (1621 N. Mesquite St., 361/882-4588, www.corpuschristiballet.com). Staging several ballets annually—including classics like The Nutcracker and children’s fare such as Cinderella—Corpus Christi Ballet is a first-rate classical company that emphasizes the importance of teaching the cultural arts to younger residents and audience members.
One of the newest classical venues in town is the Performing Arts Center at Texas A&M Corpus Christi (6300 Ocean Dr., 361/825-5700, www.pac.tamucc.edu). The impressive $18 million facility is known for its excellent sound and quality amenities. The performers here are mainly from the classical realm, with featured names from the past few years including pianist Van Cliburn, mezzosoprano Frederica von Stade, and violinists Itzhak Perlman and Joshua Bell.
Perhaps the most venerable performing arts organization in Corpus Christi is the Harbor Playhouse (1 Bayfront Park, 361/882-5500, www.harborplayhouse.com). The nonprofit community theater traces its history to 1925. Corpus residents have spent nearly a century enjoying the group’s staging of classic musicals and plays such as Annie, The Sound of Music, and A Christmas Carol.
Since Corpus is known primarily for its recreational activities and natural resources, its annual events tend to be more community-oriented than splashy statewide destinations. As a result, there’s a local charm on display that’s worth making an effort to experience.
The city’s most venerable annual event is Buccaneer Days (www.bucdays.com). Held each April, the (somewhat) pirate-themed event plays up swashbuckling expectations with the mayor being captured by pirates and forced to “walk the plank.” Founded in 1938, Buc Days features a rodeo, carnival, and parades.
Corpus has several malls that don’t differ much from others across the country, and many of the vacationers looking for trinkets and T-shirts opt for the souvenir shops in Port Aransas. However, there are several places in town worth checking out that offer quality clothing and jewelry, imported goods, and beach gear. Among them is Pilar Gallery (3814 S. Alameda, 361/853-7171), a colorful shop with quality women’s clothing, tapestries, rugs, and imported jewelry and folk art from Mexico and around the globe. You’ll also find an amazing array of imports and curios at El Zocalo Imports (601 N. Water St. in the Omni Bayfront, 361/887-8847). Though the primary focus here is Mexican jewelry, shoppers will find an interesting mix of objects, from crosses and candleholders to books and belt buckles.
Every beach city needs a good surf shop, and Corpus has several rad options to choose from. Hodads to heroes will find boards, surf wear, kayaks, skateboards, and surf and skate accessories at Wind & Wave Water Sports (10721 S. Padre Island Dr., 361/937-9283, www.windandwave.net) or Worldwinds Windsurfing (11493 S. Padre Island Dr., 361/949-7472, www.worldwinds.net).
Seafood is the favored item on the menu for most Corpus Christi diners, and the variety of restaurants in the downtown area offers plenty of options. Since the city has such a large Hispanic population, you’ll also find high-quality (and quantity) Tex-Mex restaurants.
You’ll catch the city’s best seafood at S Water Street Seafood Co. (309 N. Water St., 361/882-8683, www.waterstreetmarketcc.com, daily 11am-10pm, $9-24). In fact, if you’re in Corpus for more than a day, it’s practically required to eat a meal at this legendary downtown locale or at its adjacent sister location, Water Street Oyster Bar. Water Street takes everything tasty in the region—fresh seafood, Mexican influences, Cajun flavors, and good ol’ Southern cooking—and combines it on the menu for the ultimate Texas Gulf Coast eating experience. For first-timers, the best place to start is the big blackboard, where you’ll find fresh catches and daily specials (think blackened snapper and broiled flounder). The regular menu is equally appetizing, featuring consistently in-demand items such as crab cakes served with a spicy rémoulade and mango salsa; seafood jambalaya packed with shrimp, chicken, sausage, and crawfish tails in a creamy tomato sauce; and Southern-fried catfish stuffed with shrimp. For those in search of a simple seafood delight, order a double-sized peel-and-eat shrimp plate accompanied by a hoppy pale ale draft.
Slightly more upscale and not quite as family-oriented is the next-door Water Street Oyster Bar (309 N. Water St., 361/881-9448, www.waterstreetmarketcc.com, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-11pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-midnight, $11-25). This is a great spot to have a few cocktails and order some freshly shucked gulf oysters on the half shell. The menu is virtually the same as the Seafood Co.’s, so the aforementioned recommendations apply; you’ll just be able to enjoy them in a more refined atmosphere. Two additional recommendations: Order your salad with the walnut-based tangy dressing, and try to save room for the hot chocolate brownie with ice cream.
One of the fanciest places in town to delight in a dish of succulent seafood while gazing upon its place of origin is the Yardarm Restaurant (4310 Ocean Dr., 361/855-8157, Tues.-Sat. 5:30pm-9pm, $12-33). This modestly sized, cozy spot (snug, even) offers tantalizingly fresh seafood, including succulent oysters, flavorful shrimp, a snappy snapper papillote, and thick, juicy steaks. Due to its limited size and popularity, reservations are recommended. On the opposite end of the sophistication scale is the consistently tasty yet way casual SSnoopy’s Pier (13313 S. Padre Island Dr., 361/949-8815, www.snoopyspier.com, daily 11am-10pm in summer, 11am-9pm in winter, $8-22). If you want to eat like a local and soak up the laid-back beach life, this is the authentic place to be. Located on the water just below the causeway, Snoopy’s is an ideal place to grab a cold beer and a plate full of fried or boiled shrimp. Watch the sun set as you lazily peel shrimp or enjoy the flaky goodness of fresh catches such as flounder or drum.
If you’re staying on Corpus Christi Beach, you’ll find two quality laid-back seafood restaurants within walking distance of your hotel and the beach. Pier 99 (2822 N. Shoreline Blvd., 361/887-0764, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-10pm, $9-24) is a Corpus Christi stalwart on the beach across from the massive USS Lexington. The portions here are nearly as big, particularly the combo plates overflowing with shrimp, crab legs, oysters, crawfish, and catfish. Be sure to order a bowl of the fresh seafood gumbo. Mellow live music keeps the atmosphere spirited most nights, providing a perfect Margaritaville moment for your tropical getaway. Not quite as aesthetically pleasing yet reliable in its good food is the misleadingly named Blackbeard’s on the Beach (3117 E. Surfside Blvd., 361/884-1030, www.blackbeardsrestaurant.net, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-10pm, $8-21), across the street from the Radisson and a couple blocks away from the ocean. This is another casual, family-friendly place where you’ll find a bar full of bric-a-brac and hearty helpings of fresh seafood and Tex-Mex specialties.
By nature, beach towns are populated with casual eateries catering to flip-flopped families and sun-soaked sailors. Still, vacations are often an opportune time to celebrate the special occasion of being away from home in an exciting, unfamiliar locale. A fancy meal is one of the best ways to commemorate a well-deserved break, and in Corpus, it doesn’t get much fancier than the Republic of Texas Bar & Grill (900 N. Shoreline Blvd., 361/886-3515, Mon.-Sat. 5:30-10:30pm, Sun. 5:30pm-9pm, $12-45). On the 20th floor of the Omni Bayfront, this restaurant serves upscale Texas fare in a refined environment with incredibly stunning views. Meat is the main event here, and the range of options and methods of preparation are as impressive as the surrounding scenery. Can’t-miss menu items include chateau steak with sautéed asparagus and broccoli, pork rib chops in an apple-ginger glaze, Texas crab cake with lobster and cognac sauce, and perfectly prepared venison, buffalo, and redfish.
Another popular option is Katz 21 Steak & Spirits (317 N. Mesquite St., 361/884-1221, www.katz21.com, Mon.-Thurs. 4pm-midnight, Fri.-Sat. 4pm-2am, Sun. 10am-3pm, $14-41). A traditional steak house specializing in prime grade-A beef, Katz’s features quality cuts of meat as well as fresh seafood, veal, and lamb. Unlike many traditional stuffy steak houses, however, Katz’s offers a lighter lunch menu with soups, salads, sandwiches, and pastas. Popular items include the prime rib served au jus with horseradish sauce, bone-in rib eye, rack of lamb, and veal piccata. Reservations are encouraged.
Steak lovers should also consider Niko’s Steakhouse (5409 Saratoga St., 361/992-2333, www.nikossteakhouse.com, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-midnight, Fri.-Sat. 11am-1am, $19-39). Prime rib is a favorite among locals, but the rib eye and sirloin steaks are worthy considerations. Although the sides at Niko’s appropriately play second fiddle to the main meat events, there are several notable options, including the asparagus and Yukon potatoes.
Slightly more trendy is Dragonfly (14701 S. Padre Island Dr., 361/949-2224, www.dragonflycuracaoblues.com, Tues.-Fri. 11am-2pm and 4:30pm-9:30pm, Sat. 5pm-10pm, $9-26), offering a fresh take on seafood and other standard fare, along with an extensive and interesting tapas menu. Dragonfly’s salmon features a wonderful curry seasoning and is accompanied by a tasty side of baby bok choy and carrots, while the cheesy lasagna somehow manages to be hearty without being overly filling. Other menu highlights include the slightly spicy shrimp skewer and tasty grilled tuna. Parents take note: Dragonfly doesn’t officially have a kids’ menu, but they’ll whip up a bowl of creamy mac and cheese upon request.
Enough with the fancy stuff. Two of Corpus Christi’s most venerable downtown eateries specialize in comfort food in a casual atmosphere. The 1950s-style City Diner & Oyster Bar (622 N. Water St., 361/883-1643, daily 8am-10pm, $7-18) is known for just about everything on the menu except its unremarkable oysters. From greasy burgers to zesty peppercorn ranch onion rings to classic chicken-fried steak to snapper smothered in a creamy crab and shrimp sauce, this retro establishment gets home-style regional fare right. Just a few blocks down the street is another esteemed local hot spot, the tourist-friendly Executive Surf Club (309 N. Water St., 361/884-7873, www.executivesurfclub.com, Mon.-Thurs. 11am-11pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-midnight, $8-19). This is an ideal place to grab a big ol’ juicy cheeseburger and a Shiner Bock while you contemplate your next beach activity. Standard bar fare is the main draw here, and the Surf Club delivers with fish-and-chips, fried shrimp, tortilla wraps, and chicken-fried steak, all served on tables fashioned from old surfboards. Stick around after dinner for some local hot blues and rock bands.
For a hearty breakfast or lunch with a colorful cast of local residents, head on over to Hester’s Café and Coffee Bar (1714 S. Alameda St., 361/885-0558, www.hesterscafe.com, Mon.-Sat. 7am-3pm, $9-22). Known as a reliable spot for semi-fancy comfort food, Hester’s offers classics like eggs and hash browns with delectable additions like fresh avocado and thick-cut bacon. Popular lunch options include the stacked Laguna Club sandwich (with melted cheese on top), hearty Victoria Pasta, and fresh salads.
Corpus has a long-standing connection with Asian cultures, reaching back nearly a century to the days when shrimpers and rice farmers arrived in the developing coastal town. Only recently, however, have Thai, Chinese, and Japanese restaurants come to the general public’s awareness. Among the most popular is Yalee’s Asian Bistro (5649 Saratoga Blvd., 361/993-9333, www.yaleesasianbistro.com, daily 11am-10pm, $8-19). The counter-service approach may lower expectations, but the food at Yalee’s is top-notch, featuring popular menu items such as the spicy Ma Po tofu and flavorful standards like Kung Pao shrimp and General Tso chicken. Sushi fans should head directly to Aka Sushi (5301 Everhart Rd., 361/851-9191, Mon.-Thurs. 11:30am-2pm and 5pm-10pm, Fri. 11:30am-2pm and 5pm-10:30pm, Sat. 5pm-10:30pm, $9-23). There’s something for everyone here, from classic tuna and shrimp rolls to more elaborate options such as a dragon roll and its off-menu variation known as an ecstasy roll. The seaweed salad is a popular dish, and the sake selection is impressive.
Although the Asian population in Corpus is fairly sizable, there are only a handful of restaurants that adequately represent the Thai options. If you’re only able to visit one, make sure it’s Thai Spice (523 N. Water St., 361/883-8884, www.thaispicecc.com, daily 11am-11pm, $9-21). The most popular dishes (and deservedly so) are the coconut curry options, served in actual coconuts. It helps that the flavorful curry is tempered by the sweetness of the coconut and accompanying fresh pineapple. Another notable option is the lemongrass soup, though it can be a bit spicy for some.
Though not quite as authentic in nature, a similarly high-quality option is just a few blocks away at Vietnam (701 N. Water St., 361/853-2682, www.vietnam-restaurant.com, Mon.-Thurs. 11am-2pm and 5pm-9pm, Fri. 11am-2pm and 5pm-10pm, Sat. 5pm-10pm, $11-23). This is the place to go for amazing soups, including varieties of pho and surprisingly tasty catfish soup. Seafood and veggie dishes are also worth ordering.
Unlike its seafood restaurants, most of Corpus Christi’s Mexican spots are not on the waterfront. Regardless, several are worth the inland drive, particularly La Playa (5017 Saratoga Blvd. and 7118 S. Padre Island Dr., 361/986-0089, www.laplaya.cc, Sun.-Mon. 11am-9pm, Tues.-Sat. 11am-11pm, $9-21). This is the place to go for a top-notch traditional Tex-Mex meal. Feast on chicken enchiladas in a tangy tomatillo sauce or savor the sizzling beef fajitas. You won’t regret ordering the stuffed fried avocados, either. This being a seaside town, you can also order Tex-Mex-style dishes featuring fresh fish and gulf shrimp. Another commendable spot offering some coastal flair to the Tex-Mex offerings is La Costenita (4217 Leopard St., 361/882-5340, Mon.-Sat. 5:30am-6pm, $8-17). This downtown eatery is small in size yet huge on taste, particularly the shrimp dishes and traditional enchilada and taco plates. Try not to fill up too quickly on the amazing chips and perfectly spicy homemade salsa. And make sure you arrive before 5:30pm!
Locals flock to Kiko’s (5514 Everhart Rd., 361/991-1211, Mon.-Thurs. 6:30am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 6:30am-10pm, $9-20) for the enchiladas. Cheese enchiladas with zesty ranchero sauce are the specialty here, but you can’t go wrong with most menu items, including the green chile burrito, guacamole salad, and tortilla soup. Better yet, sample all the goodness the restaurant has to offer with the Kiko’s platter, offering a signature cheese enchilada, beef fajita tacos, and a crispy chalupa.
Also drawing Corpus crowds is Solis Mexican Restaurant (3122 Baldwin Blvd. and 5409 Leopard St., 361/882-5557, Mon.-Sat. 6am-9pm, Sun. 7am-3pm, $8-18). This classic taqueria is known for its tasty tacos and enchiladas, all prepared with fresh homemade tortillas. Locals love the stuffed breakfast tacos (served all day) and liquados (fruity Mexican drinks).
There’s no shortage of lodging options in Corpus, and most have decent views with easy access to the bay and fairly reasonable rates for a vacation destination. For those interested, there are plenty of budget options available in the airport/greyhound racetrack area, but most leisure travelers feel it’s worth dropping the extra cash to stay in a place by the sea. If you’re looking for a nice spot away from the city, consider a condo (nightly rates available) on alluring Mustang Island or North Padre Island, about 10-15 miles from downtown directly on the Gulf Coast.
You can do the beach on a bargain, if you consider lodging in the $90s a good deal. Not surprisingly, the more affordable hotels tend to be farther down the shoreline, but for many visitors, the key word is shoreline, so proximity isn’t a concern. One of the better deals in town is the Budget Inn & Suites (801 S. Shoreline Blvd., 888/493-2950, www.budgetinnandsuitescc.com, $89 d), within walking distance of Cole Park, one of the city’s premier windsurfing spots. The hotel’s amenities include a free continental breakfast, free wireless Internet service, and an outdoor pool and sundeck. A bit closer to the action is Knights Inn (3615 Timon Blvd., 361/883-4411, www.knightsinn.com, $95 d), just a couple blocks off the bay and offering private balconies, several ocean-view rooms, free wireless Internet access, refrigerators, microwaves, and an outdoor pool.
The best deal in the $100 range is Quality Inn & Suites (3202 Surfside Blvd., 361/883-7456, www.qualityinn.com, $99 d), thanks to its prime location on Corpus Christi Beach in the shadow of the USS Lexington and Texas State Aquarium. The hotel also features an outdoor beachside pool and hot tub, free continental breakfast, and rooms with microwaves and refrigerators.
A bit farther up the road in location and price is Days Inn (4302 Surfside Blvd., 361/882-3297, www.daysinn.com, $119 d), a block off Corpus Christi Beach. Amenities include rooms with microwaves, fridges, and free Wi-Fi access, along with a complimentary continental breakfast and an outdoor pool. Closer to downtown is the Plaza Inn (2021 N. Padre Island Dr., 361/289-8200, www.plazainnhotels.com, $129 d), offering a nice range of complimentary eats, from hot breakfast in the morning to popcorn and soda in the afternoon, and beverages and appetizers in the evening. The Plaza Inn also has an outdoor pool, free Wi-Fi service, and is pet-friendly.
Another good option in this price range is the Holiday Inn Express (5213 Oakhurst Dr., 361/857-7772, www.hiexpress.com, $116 d), offering free Wi-Fi service, a complimentary hot breakfast bar, and a fitness center with an indoor pool and whirlpool. A bit farther east is Hilton Garden Inn (6717 S. Padre Island Dr., 361/991-8200, www.hiltongardeninn.hilton.com, $139 d), providing a heated outdoor pool with Jacuzzi, complimentary high-speed Internet access, a microwave and mini-fridge in each room, and 32-inch flat-screen LCD TVs. Just off the busy South Padre Island Drive is the Hampton Inn (5209 Blanche Moore Dr., 361/985-8395, www.hamptoninn.com, $129 d), which features free Internet access, a complimentary breakfast, to-go breakfast bags (on weekdays), an outdoor pool, and a fitness center.
Another downtown option is the Best Western Corpus Christi (300 N. Shoreline Blvd., 361/883-5111, www.bestwestern.com, $139 d), offering rooms with private balconies and marina views, wireless Internet access, microwaves, refrigerators, a free continental breakfast, and an outdoor pool and exercise facility. A reasonable deal in the heart of downtown is the Bayfront Plaza Hotel (601 N. Water St., 361/882-8100, www.ccbayfront.com, $139 d). The 10-story atrium lobby and interior corridor is pleasant, unless you’re trying to get to sleep while a jazz band is enthusiastically playing in the bar. You can walk to restaurants and nightclubs from here, and even stroll down to the T-head piers or tiny Magee Beach. The hotel’s amenities include a large outdoor swimming pool, wireless Internet access, and free covered parking.
A bit farther away from the bay is Staybridge Suites (5201 Oakhurst Dr., 361/857-7766, www.staybridgecc.com, $144 d). Features include a “sundowner reception” (Tues.-Thurs.) with complimentary light meals along with beer, wine, and soft drinks, as well as a free hot breakfast. Other amenities include a fitness center, whirlpool, and outdoor pool, and free Wi-Fi service.
The best choice for those who want to stay directly on the beach is the S Radisson (3200 Surfside Blvd., 361/883-9700, www.radisson.com, $149 d). Step out the back doors and onto the sand of Corpus Christi Beach, a pleasant stretch of shoreline on the bay that hosts a large number of frolicking families, flotsam and jetsam, and the USS Lexington. Though the interior corridors are somewhat dark, the rooms are bright and cheery, with private balconies, microwaves, refrigerators, and free Internet access. The hotel features a splendid outdoor pool with swim-up bar service, a full-fledged fitness center, and a decent restaurant, the Blue Bay Grill.
For something more intimate and less corporate, consider the new yet cozy V Boutique and Hotel (701 N. Water St., 361/883-9200, www.vhotelcc.com, $189 d). Sited amid the bayside businesses, the V features modern decor with a residential feel, including flat-screen TVs, free Internet access, fancy bedding, minibars, and a fitness center. Farther south along the bayside is Emerald Beach Hotel (1102 S. Shoreline Blvd., 800/465-4329, www.hotelemeraldbeach.com, $199 d). This recently renovated hotel offers an independently owned option containing an indoor pool and fitness center along with an indoor recreation area for the kids (heated pool, table tennis, billiard tables, vending machines, etc.). Emerald Beach features wireless Internet access and free meals for children.
Looming large along the Corpus Christi Bay are the Omni towers, the Marina and Bayfront (707 and 900 N. Shoreline Blvd., 361/887-1600, www.omnihotels.com, $199 d). Within a block of each other, the towers are connected by a walkway to form a deluxe complex. They’re similar in price and amenities, although the Bayfront Tower offers additional upscale room options. Both provide rooms with wireless Internet access, free meals for kids, a fancy fully equipped health club, an indoor/outdoor heated swimming pool, an in-house massage therapist, bike rentals, and free covered parking.
An ideal spot for RVers looking to set up shop in town is Puerto Del Sol RV Park (5100 Timon Blvd., 361/882-5373, $25-35) at the northern edge of Corpus Christi Beach. Amenities include full hookups, a rec room, laundry facilities, restrooms with hot showers, Internet access, and a book exchange. Farther out of town at the entrance of Padre Island is Colonia Del Rey (1717 Waldron Rd., 361/937-2435 or 800/580-2435, $25-35), offering a heated pool, hot tub, a recreation facility, laundry room, convenience store, and wireless Internet service. Nearby is the minimal yet affordable Padre Balli Park (15820 Park Rd. 22, 361/949-8121, $10-20), containing 54 paved campsites with water and electric hookups, 12 hardtop campsites for pitching a tent with water and electric hookups, and primitive camping on the beach. A bathhouse and laundry facility are also available.
The Corpus Christi Area Convention & Visitors Bureau (101 N. Shoreline Blvd., 361/881-1800 or 800/766-2322, www.visitcorpuschristitx.org, Mon-Fri. 8:30am-5pm) displays scores of brochures, maps, and helpful information on local attractions and recreation. Similar information is available at the bureau’s downtown Corpus Christi Tourist Information Center (1509 N. Shoreline Blvd., 800/766-2322, daily 9am-5pm).
For those driving from Central Texas (Austin, San Antonio) to Corpus, take I-35 South, then I-37 South from San Antonio. It takes about 3.5 hours from Austin and nearly two hours from San Antonio. Although most Houstonians get their beach fix at nearby Galveston, they occasionally travel down the coast via I-69/U.S. Highway 59 South to Victoria (about a two-hour drive) before heading south on U.S. Highways 77 and 181 to Corpus (about an hour).
Five miles west of downtown, the Corpus Christi International Airport (1000 International Blvd., 361/289-0171, www.cctexas.com/airport) offers service from several major airlines (Southwest, United, and American Eagle), including service to Monterrey, Mexico. The city’s bus system, Regional Transportation Authority (1806 S. Alameda St., 361/883-2287, www.ccrta.org), provides citywide service. Check the website for updated fare and route information.
When people say they’re going to Corpus Christi to hit the beach, they’re often referring to adjacent Mustang Island. It’s nice to have a modest-sized city like Corpus nearby for amenities (clean and affordable hotels, restaurant variety, medical services, etc.), but a coastal getaway should involve more sand beneath your feet than asphalt. That’s where Mustang Island comes in handy. Within 15 minutes, travelers can be transported from the city to the sea.
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Just south of Mustang Island is Padre Island National Seashore (3829 Park Rd. 22, 361/949-8068, www.nps.gov/pais, $5 entry fee for walkers and bikers, $10 fee for vehicles, passes valid for seven days). Don’t let the name fool you. This low-key, nature-oriented, protected shoreline is not to be confused with the commercial-minded party atmosphere of South Padre Island, a nearly three-hour drive to the south. Padre Island National Seashore is the longest remaining undeveloped stretch of barrier island in the world and appeals primarily to naturalists who delight in its primitive shoreline and birding and fishing opportunities. Bird-watchers arrive in droves during the fall and spring migration seasons when thousands of birds drop by the island, including sandhill cranes, hawks, and songbirds. The park is also considered the most important nesting beach in the country for the most endangered sea turtle in the world, the Kemp’s ridley. Park officials incubate sea turtle eggs found along the coast and release the hatchlings into the gulf during the summer. The public is invited to view this fascinating natural event—for release dates and directions to the site, call the Hatchling Hotline (361/949-7163). Other popular activities at the park include swimming, fishing, windsurfing, and beachcombing. Visit the website for detailed information about camping locations and fees. To reach the park from Corpus, take South Padre Island Drive (Highway 358) to Padre Island, then head south on Park Road 22 for 13 miles to the Malaquite Visitor Center.
Don’t miss the beautiful shoreline along Mustang Island State Park (17047 State Hwy. 361, 361/749-5246, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, $4 ages 13 and up). Named for the wild horses that escaped from Spanish explorers and roamed free across this 18-mile-long island, Mustang Island State Park comprises five miles of the pristine outstretched beach, perfect for swimming, fishing, sunbathing, hiking, biking, and even low-intensity surfing. Birding is another popular activity along this 4,000-acre island, notable for its distinctive ecosystem based on 20-foot-high sand dunes that protect the bay and mainland and can reduce powerful hurricane-driven waves. To get there from Corpus, take South Padre Island Drive (Highway 358) to Padre Island, then head north on Highway 361 for five miles to the park headquarters.
If you’re seriously into beachcombing—we’re talking shell collections, mounted driftwood, maybe even a metal detector—then San Jose Island is your paradise. This privately owned property across the bay from Port Aransas is the definition of pristine—it’s almost as untouched as it was when Karankawa Indians occupied the place nearly a thousand years ago. In the 1830s, locals found the remains of a pirate camp on the island, and rumor has it pirate Jean Lafitte’s Spanish dagger with a silver spike is still somewhere guarding his booty of silver and gold. These days, “Saint Joe” is safe for visitors, who can access it via a short boat ride to partake of the premier swimming, fishing, sunbathing, and treasure hunting on this beautiful unspoiled property. To arrange transport, drop by Port A’s Fisherman’s Wharf (900 N. Tarpon St., 361/749-5448, www.wharfcat.com, call for seasonal rates).
At the northern tip of Mustang Island is Port Aransas (or Port A, as it’s known locally), a charming little beach town with services catering to everyone from beach bums to big spenders.
Port Aransas’s (population 3,778) origins are traced to an English farmer who used the area as a sheep and cattle grazing station in the mid-1800s. Decades later, New Jersey entrepreneur Elihu Ropes attempted to organize a massive project to dredge a 30-foot shipping channel across Mustang Island to allow access to the deep waters of the gulf. He was ultimately unsuccessful in his quest, but his efforts resulted in the town briefly being named Ropesville in his honor.
By the mid-20th century, Port Aransas had become synonymous with recreation, drawing tens of thousands of anglers, swimmers, boaters, and beachcombers to its magnificent open sands and charming seaside village atmosphere. The town’s population swelled from 824 residents in 1960 to several thousand by the end of the century. As many as 20,000 vacationers descend on Port Aransas during peak periods, packing the island’s motels, cottages, beach houses, condos, resorts, seafood restaurants, tackle shops, and boutiques.
To get there from the mainland, you’ll have to travel across the South Padre Island Drive causeway from Corpus on the southern edge of the island, or, if you have the time and interest, take the 24-hour ferry from nearby Aransas Pass. It’s well worth the effort. Look for dolphins behind the ferry as they tumble over each other in the bay snatching up fish in the boat’s wake.
Port A isn’t known for its dynamic cultural attractions. At all. It’s a small beach community where the biggest and best attraction is . . . the beach. Besides, with big ol’ Corpus Christi just a few miles away, it doesn’t need any of those pesky multistory buildings and parking lots. In fact, the only real destination in town is beach-related: the Marine Science Institute. At the risk of learning something on your beach vacation, consider a visit to the Marine Science Institute (630 E. Cotter Ave., 361/749-6729, www.utmsi.utexas.edu, Mon.-Fri. 8am-5pm, Sat.-Sun. 11am-3pm, free). The oldest marine research station on the Texas Gulf Coast, the institute is dedicated to sciences (ecology, biochemistry, physiology, etc.) relating to plants and animals of the sea. Its visitors center offers educational movies (Mon.-Thurs. at 3pm) and self-guided tours of marine-related research project exhibits, stunning photographs, entertaining interactive displays for children, and several aquariums containing local sea life, including a funky flounder with two eyes on one side of its body.
When it comes to activities in Port Aransas, the key word is “outside.” Water is the main reason most people visit the area, and fortunately there are many noteworthy places to explore and have fun all year.
Port Aransas is a fishing mecca. Some claim the area is overfished, but it’s clear to see why so many anglers are angling to get here—easy access to the bay and deep-sea gulf fishing provide species aplenty throughout the year. Those looking to keep their feet on solid ground or dock can take advantage of the free fishing from beaches, jetties, or one of the three lighted piers (Charlie’s Harbor Pier, Ancel Brundrett Pier, and J.P. Luby Pier) extending into the Corpus Christi Ship Channel.
It’s well worth the two dollars for the popular and well-lit Horace Caldwell Pier (230 North on the Beach, 361/749-5333, www.keepersportaransasfishingpier.com). The pier is more than 1,200 feet long and open 24 hours day, with bait, tackle, rental equipment, and munchies available at the concession stand. This is an ideal one-stop-shop for people who don’t have much experience fishing, but want to spend an hour or so taking advantage of a true local experience. Friendly locals are happy to assist with your bait, offer advice, and, if you’re lucky, help remove your catch from your hook.
Many anglers prefer the challenge of the larger deep-sea species, including kingfish, mackerel, flounder, tuna, and shark. Group boats offer bay and deep-sea fishing, and popular fishing tournaments take place throughout the summer. The Deep Sea Roundup, held each July, is the oldest fishing tournament on the Gulf Coast. As a testament to the overwhelming allure of fishing in Port A, the town has several hundred fishing guides. Inquire about group fishing at Fisherman’s Wharf (900 N. Tarpon St., 361/749-5448, www.wharfcat.com), or to arrange a private rental, contact Woody’s Sports Center (136 W. Cotter Ave., 361/749-5252, www.woodys-pa.com).
The best swimming in the area is at Mustang Island State Park, but visitors can still access portions of the wide and welcoming beach among the condos and private property just off the island’s main road (Highway 361). Visitors can also swim and camp at the northern tip of the island just outside Port A at Magee Beach Park (321 North on the Beach, 361/749-6117, www.nuecesbeachparks.com). This 167-acre park isn’t quite as breathtaking as other portions of Mustang Island or San Jose Island, but it’s a good spot to dip your toes in the water and soak up the salty sea air. A park office offers limited visitor information, and the beach bathhouse contains publicly accessible showers.
Magee Beach Park
One of the best seafood restaurants on the Gulf Coast is the unassuming yet spectacular SShells Pasta & Seafood (522 E. Ave. G, 361/749-7621, www.eatatshells.com, Wed.-Mon. 11:30am-2:30pm and 5pm-9pm, $11-34). Housed inside a modest building, Shells is a tiny place—nine tables with plastic chairs—with an enormous reputation for quality fresh seafood and pasta dishes. Order from the daily blackboard specials or the regular menu, featuring classic and perfectly prepared seafood dishes such as the signature pan-seared amberjack, grilled shrimp, blue crab cakes, or sumptuous shrimp linguine in a delightfully creamy Alfredo sauce. This is elegant food in a casual shorts-wearing environment. Finding Shells will be a highlight of your trip to Port A.
Not quite as fancy yet well worth a visit is Lisabella’s (224 E. Cotter Ave., 361/749-4222, Tues.-Sat. 5:30pm-9pm, $9-29). Locals love Lisabella’s mermaid soup, a tasty concoction of lobster, shrimp, coconut milk, curry, and avocado. The crab cakes and sautéed grouper are similarly enticing.
If you’re looking for a casual spot where you can wear T-shirts and flip-flops while gazing upon old fishing nets, mounted marlin, and a marina, head to Trout Street Bar & Grill (104 W. Cotter Ave., 361/749-7800, www.tsbag.com, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-9pm, $10-28). Sit outside on the covered veranda to gaze upon the ship channel activity while feasting on peel-and-eat shrimp, fish tacos, drum po-boys, grilled amberjack, snapper, tuna, or steak. Complement the fantastic flavors with a local hefeweizen. A bonus: Trout Street will cook your fresh-caught fish as long as it’s cleaned and ready for the kitchen.
Another venerable seafood spot is Fins (420 W. Cotter Ave., 361/749-8646, www.finsgrillandicehouse.com, $8-27). The views and menu items are pretty amazing, and shrimp is the specialty. Go for the gusto and order the Bayou Combo (sautéed whitefish and gulf shrimp topped with a zesty sauce) and savor the flavor. Fins is one of the most family-friendly locales in Port A, so feel free to bring the whole crew and order some burgers and chicken nuggets, if needed.
A popular new-ish arrival in town is The Brewery (429 N. Alister St., 361/749-2739, www.portaransasbrewery.com, Fri.-Mon. 11am-9pm, $9-18). There’s something immensely satisfying about sipping on a well-crafted specialty beer while waiting for your fresh seafood to arrive in a beach town. In this case, the beer should be the single-hopped citra IPA or the Holy Cow Coffee Milk Stout. Pair it with the shrimp tacos, fried gulf fish, or islander brick-oven pizza.
There are two kinds of Italian restaurants in many coastal communities: beach grub and upscale cuisine. Port A has both. For a quick slice of pizza in an ultra-laid-back environment, check out the immensely popular Port A Pizzeria (407 E. Ave. G., 361/749-5226, www.portapizzeria.com, daily 11am-10pm, $8-18). The biggest draw is the buffet, allowing diners to immediately devour hot slices of cheesy goodness. Some diners even choose to wait a few minutes for the tasty calzone. The big crowds usually ensure a quick turnaround on the pizza varieties.
The fancy Italian option in town is the consistently top-notch Venetian Hot Plate (232 Beach Ave., 361/749-7617, www.venetianhotplate.com, Tues.-Sat. 5pm-10pm, $9-33). Named for the sizzling iron plates some of the meals arrive on, this upscale spot specializes in tender and succulent meats, including filet mignon medallions, veal, and lamb. The wine selection is excellent, and the desserts are spectacular. Reservations are recommended.
For a truly memorable experience in this quaint seaside village, stay at the charming S Tarpon Inn (200 E. Cotter Ave., 361/749-5555, www.thetarponinn.com, $89-195, depending on room size and season). An “inn” in every sense of the term, this historic establishment offers a slice of life in the late 1800s. In fact, it’s so authentic, you won’t even find a TV (or phone!) in your room. Fortunately, Wi-Fi service is available, so if you prefer, you can get online and avoid doing old-fashioned things like book reading, relaxing in a rocking chair, playing croquet and horseshoes, or even talking. The rooms are small, but the lack of stuff in them—vintage beds and furniture notwithstanding—is imminently refreshing. Be sure to check out the old tarpon fish scales on the wall in the lobby, including those autographed by famous actors and politicians. The trolley stops out front every day to take guests to the beach or nearby shops.
the historic Tarpon Inn
Not quite as charming yet just as appealing in its localness is Alister Square Inn (122 S. Alister St., 361/749-3003, www.portaransas-texas.com, $99-199). Though it’s a bit rough around the edges, this welcoming accommodation appeals to families and anglers alike with its various lodging options (two-bedroom apartments, kitchenette suites, and standard hotel rooms), each featuring microwaves, refrigerators, and wireless Internet access. Alister Square is within walking distance of the beach, shopping boutiques, and restaurants.
In Port Aransas, visitors have to pay more for the comfort of a familiar chain hotel than a local inn. Among the corporate options are Best Western Ocean Villa (400 E. Ave. G, 361/749-3010, www.bestwestern.com, $197 d), located within walking distance of beaches, fishing piers, and local shops. Amenities include rooms with microwaves, refrigerators, and Internet access, along with a free continental breakfast and an outdoor swimming pool. Closer to the beach (just a couple blocks away) is the Holiday Inn Express (727 S. 11th St., 361/749-5222, www.ichotelsgroup.com, $209 d), offering a fitness center, a pool and spa area, a free continental breakfast, and rooms with microwaves, refrigerators, and Internet access.
Condos proliferate on Mustang Island’s shoreline like barnacles on a shrimp boat. Albeit really nice barnacles. Condos make perfect sense in a beach environment—visitors can traipse back and forth between the surf and their temporary home, sand gathers guiltlessly on all surfaces, and beers and pizza fill the fridge. Perhaps most popular among the dozen or so options is Beachgate CondoSuites & Motel (2000 On The Beach Dr., 361/749-5900, www.beachgate.com, $230-310, depending on room size and season). Situated adjacent to the sandy shores of Mustang Island—meaning boardwalks or long trails through the dunes aren’t necessary—Beachgate offers everything from efficiency-size motel rooms to full-size three-bedroom condos, accommodating everyone from the solo angler to the sizable family reunion. Larger options contain fully equipped kitchens, and all units have small refrigerators, microwaves, and coffeemakers. Additional amenities include a fish-cleaning facility, boat parking, and washers and horseshoe sets for fun on the beach.
Another commendable option is the Sand Castle Condominium (800 Sandcastle Dr., 361/749-6201, www.sandcastlecondo.com, $185-295), offering 180 units (efficiencies, one, two, or three bedrooms) with complete kitchens and laundry and cleaning service. The Sand Castle also features a fitness center, a large outdoor pool and hot tub, a boardwalk to the beach, and a fish-cleaning facility.
Also drawing hordes of regulars is La Mirage (5973 Hwy. 361, 361/749-6030, www.lamirage-portaransas.com, $120-350), with clean and comfortable units in a three-story building surrounding a tropical courtyard. Options include studio efficiencies or one-, two-, or three-bedroom condos, each offering fully equipped kitchens, free Internet access, a laundry room, and living and dining areas.
Pick up a handy brochure with island visitor info and a map of the trolley route at the Port Aransas Chamber of Commerce and Tourist Bureau (403 W. Cotter St., 361/749-5919, www.portaransas.org). The Island Trolley (aka “The B” and “The #94 Shuttle,” 361/749-4111) will take you pretty much anywhere you want to go in Port A, from the beach to the wharf to shops and back to your hotel. For only 25 cents. It’s particularly handy when you’re on beer number four and dinner is calling.
The Port Aransas Ferry System (361/749-2850) provides free marine transportation service year-round at all hours of the day. It’s a unique and mostly charming way of getting across the water—you can even get out of your car during the “ride” and look for the dolphins that typically swim behind the ferryboat. The 15-minute ride connects Port Aransas with the mainland at Aransas Pass, north of Corpus Christi. There are six ferries in operation, each carrying up to 20 vehicles per trip. During the busy season, particularly holidays and some summer weekends, you may have to wait up to 30 or 45 minutes for a transport, but typically the wait is no longer than 5-10 minutes.
About 40 miles southwest of Corpus Christi, Kingsville (population 26,225) is the birthplace of the American ranching industry. It’s the main commercial center of the legendary King Ranch, which sprawls across 825,000 acres and boasts 60,000 head of cattle.
The community is named for the famous riverboat baron and rancher Richard King, who used his business profits to purchase the vast piece of property that would become the eponymous ranch. Kingsville’s roots as a city are traced to the St. Louis, Brownsville and Mexico Railway, which put the town on the map when its tracks were laid in the early 1900s. Most of Kingsville’s early business activity, however, was related to the King family, who started a weekly newspaper and built a hotel, an ice plant, and a cotton gin. Kingsville went on to become a busy trade center for ranching families across South Texas.
Kingsville’s population grew significantly when Exxon relocated a district office here in the 1960s. A surge in enrollment at the Texas College of Arts and Industries (now Texas A&M Kingsville) brought even more folks to town, numbering nearly 30,000 by the late 1970s. Exxon closed its regional office in 1985, and the population has slowly declined since then.
Regardless, Kingsville remains a major draw for birders and naturalists, who delight in the area’s million acres of habitat. Visitors from across the state and the country travel to the historic downtown area to learn about the heritage of King Ranch and to shop at the boutiques and antiques stores.
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For many Texas visitors, King Ranch is the embodiment of the Lone Star State’s legacy. Longhorn cattle, vast ranch lands, and genuine cowboys evoke a sense of mystique and grandeur that Texas alone can claim.
As improbable as it may seem, America’s ranching legacy was revolutionized by a man who arrived on Texas’s Gulf Coast as a preteen stowaway. Richard King, who escaped from New York City in 1835 aboard a cargo ship, went on to become a steamboat baron along the Rio Grande before overseeing his ranching empire.
The origins of King Ranch, now an esteemed National Historic Landmark, date to 1853 when Richard King purchased 68,500 acres of property that had been Spanish and Mexican land grants. Between 1869 and 1884, King sent more than 100,000 head of livestock from his ranch to northern markets on now-legendary routes like the Chisholm Trail. Many of these herds were marked with the iconic symbol for the King Ranch, the Running W brand, which first appeared in the 1860s. Though the origins of this distinctive shape aren’t known, local legends claim it represents the sweeping horns of a longhorn bull or a slithering diamondback rattlesnake.
One of King Ranch’s biggest claims to fame is its development of the Western Hemisphere’s first strain of beef cattle: Santa Gertrudis. Based on the name from the property’s original land grant, this breed of cattle was developed in the 1920s to produce cows that could withstand the oppressive South Texas conditions—heat, humidity, and biting insects. To accomplish this, breeding experts (including Richard King’s grandson) crossed Indian Brahman cattle with British shorthorns.
King was also one of the first ranchers to move Texas longhorns from Mexico to markets in the Midwest, and the innovations developed at his ranch, from cattle and horse breeding and disease control to improving the blood lines of the quarter horse to well drilling, earned it the proud title “birthplace of American ranching.”
Today, King Ranch sprawls across 825,000 acres, an area larger than the state of Rhode Island. The King Ranch Visitor Center (2205 Hwy. 141 W., 361/592-8055, www.king-ranch.com, tours Mon.-Sat. at 10am, noon, and 1pm, Sun. at 12:30pm and 2pm, $20 adults, $15 seniors, $6 children ages 5-12) offers daily guided tours along an old stagecoach road past majestic longhorns with the iconic Running W brand on their hindquarters, and a 100-year-old carriage house with a mission-style roofline and distinctive arches. Other highlights include the Victorian-era cabin homes of King’s working families (known as Kineños) and a horse cemetery with graves of famous racing thoroughbreds from the 1950s. It gets plenty hot out on the ranch, but you’ll be in air-conditioned comfort in a plush utility vehicle with water breaks and a friendly guide to answer questions and point out fascinating tidbits of information. Special tours devoted to birding, native wildlife, and agriculture are available in advance by reservation.
To learn more about the fascinating history of the King family and property, move ’em up and head ’em a couple miles down the road to the King Ranch Museum (405 N. 6th St., Kingsville, 361/595-1881, www.king-ranch.com, Mon.-Sat. 10am-4pm, Sun. 1pm-5pm, $10 adults, $8 seniors and students, $4 children ages 5-12). Housed in a historic downtown ice plant, the museum contains stunning 1940s photos of the ranch by award-winning photographer Toni Frissell, fancy saddles and firearms, antique coaches and carriages, and other historic ranch items. One of the most intriguing objects on display is “El Kineño,” a custom-designed 1949 Buick Eight hunting vehicle—complete with rifle holders and a shiny Running W hood ornament—made by General Motors especially for Congressman R. M. Kleberg Sr.
the stable buildings at King Ranch
Another must-see (and smell) is the restored 1909 Ragland Mercantile Building that now houses the leather-filled King Ranch Saddle Shop (201 E. Kleberg Ave., 877/282-5777, www.krsaddleshop.com, Mon.-Sat. 10am-6pm). Originally used to supply gear exclusively to the King Ranch Kineños, the store now offers leather goods and clothing to the world (its website does brisk business). The charming downtown shop also contains exhibits and photos on ranch history and information about the governors, presidents, and foreign dignitaries it has outfitted.
A block away from the saddle shop is the restored 1904 Train Depot and Museum (102 E. Kleberg Ave., 361/592-8515, www.kingsvilletexas.com, Mon.-Fri. 10am-4pm, Sat. 11am-2pm, free), offering a glimpse into Kingsville’s bustling past. Photos and artifacts, including an operational telegraph, highlight the historical significance of this hub of regional activity.
Richard King isn’t the only famous rancher in these parts. His longtime pal Mifflin Kenedy also accumulated great wealth and property thanks to his successful commercial and ranching endeavors. His legacy is on display at the Kenedy Ranch Museum of South Texas (200 E. La Parra Ave., Sarita, 361/294-5751, www.kenedy.org/museum, Tues.-Sat. 10am-4pm, Sun. noon-4pm, $3 adults, $2 seniors and children ages 13-18). Located 20 miles south of Kingsville in the little town of Sarita, the museum showcases Kenedy’s illustrious past through exhibits dedicated primarily to family, particularly his wife’s, Petra Vela de Vidal, of prominent Mexican heritage. Through his successful business ventures, Kenedy accumulated 400,000 acres of Gulf Coast property and was among the first ranchers to hold cattle inside wire fences. Housed in the 1927 Kenedy Ranch headquarters, the museum also details the family’s many successful philanthropic programs.
Regional history and the natural world are the main areas of interest at the John E. Conner Museum (905 W. Santa Gertrudis Ave., 361/593-2810, www.tamuk.edu/artsci/museum, Mon.-Fri. 8am-5pm, Sat. 10am-4pm, free). On the campus of Texas A&M-Kingsville, this modest museum offers exhibits devoted to the cultural groups that have historically occupied the area, from Native Americans to Spanish to Mexican and pioneer settlers. Native plant and animal species and their environments are also on display, as well as artwork from students and Texas artists.
Kingsville isn’t a highly regarded destination for fine dining, but there are a few places worth dropping by if you’re visiting King Ranch or even headed down to South Padre. One of the best places to eat in the entire region is about 20 miles south of Kingsville in a tiny town called Riviera. S King’s Inn (1116 S. County Rd. 2270, Riviera, 361/297-5265, www.mybighouseonline.com, Tues.-Sat. 11am-10pm, $12-27) is billed as one of the best seafood restaurants on Texas’s southern Gulf Coast, and for good reason. It doesn’t look like much from the outside, and the outdated ambience isn’t really charming either, but that matters not as soon as your food arrives. Be sure to order the lightly breaded fried shrimp, filled with freshly caught flavor and accompanied by the restaurant’s famous spicy tartar sauce (the waiter claimed to be sworn to secrecy, though he eventually let it slip that the tartar sauce contained bread crumbs, “lots of eggs,” and serrano peppers). This stunning sauce enhances everything from the interesting choice of fish (drum) to the homemade bread to the avocado salad with accompanying slices of fresh, juicy tomatoes. It’s absolutely worth the 20-minute detour to eat like a King.
Just south of the downtown area is an ideal lunch spot, the occasionally rowdy Big House Burgers (2209 S. Brahma Blvd., 361/592-0222, daily 11am-10pm, $7-13). The sports bar atmosphere can be a bit overwhelming on weekends (reminding you there’s a college in this town), but it’s worth enduring the noise and blaring TVs for the immense and flavorful burgers. Try the quadruple burger if you dare. These juicy treats will fill you up, but it’s still worth splitting some of the crunchy fries or crispy onion rings with a pal.
One of the most popular places in town to grab an authentic Tex-Mex meal is El Tapatio Mexican Restaurant (630 W. Santa Gertrudis St., 361/516-1655, Mon.-Sat. 6am-10pm, Sun. 6am-2pm, $8-15), on the edge of the Kingsville A&M campus. Though most of the food is standard Tex-Mex fare, there are a few items that set El Tapatio apart from other spots in town. The carne guisada, in particular, is spectacular, with a hearty gravy that brings out the rich flavor of the beef. Like the salsa, it has an extra kick and afterbite that leaves your mouth feeling warm and satisfied.
Another worthy local eatery is Lydia’s Homestyle Cooking (817 W. King Ave., 361/592-9405, Mon.-Sat. 6am-1:30pm, $8-17). Lydia’s is known throughout town for its tremendous breakfast taquitos (try the potato, eggs, and sausage) and the machacado plate, featuring shredded dry beef scrambled with eggs along with grilled onions, tomato, and serrano peppers. Lydia’s lunches are legendary, too, including the barbacoa plate, tamales, and chicken flautas. If necessary, you can also order gringo fare (burgers, sandwiches, etc.).
Another reputable Mexican restaurant is El Dorado (704 N. 14th St., 361/516-1459, Mon.-Sat 6am-10pm, Sun. 6am-2pm, $7-13). There’s nothing too fancy here, but the traditional Tex-Mex fare is consistently decent, including the beef tacos, chicken enchiladas, and burritos.
If you find yourself making an overnight trip to Kingsville, there are only a few options available for lodging. On the affordable side is Best Western Kingsville Inn (2402 E. King Ave., 361/595-5656, www.bestwestern.com, $89 d). Amenities include a complimentary hot breakfast, Wi-Fi access, standard rooms with microwaves and refrigerators, and a “soothing outdoor swimming pool and hot tub.”
For just a little more money, consider the newer Holiday Inn Express (2400 S. Hwy. 77, 361/592-8333, www.hiexpress.com, $111 d), offering a free hot breakfast bar, Wi-Fi access, and a heated outdoor pool.
For information about other area attractions, accommodations, and restaurants, visit the Kingsville Convention and Visitors Bureau (1501 Hwy. 77, 361/592-8516, www.kingsvilletexas.com, Mon.-Fri. 9am-5pm, Sat.-Sun. 10am-2pm).
The main route to Kingsville is U.S. Highway 77. From Corpus, drivers will have to get on Highway 44 West for about 15 minutes before linking up to U.S. Highway 77 (about 45 minutes total).
The massive 130-mile-long Padre Island is home to the longest sand beach in the United States. Never stretching more than three miles wide, the island was formed by the methodical process of sea erosion and deposition. The northern portion, adjacent to Corpus Christi, has a modest collection of hotels and residences, and is mostly recreation-oriented; the central portion is the natural protected wonderland of Padre Island National Seashore; and the southern tip is a major resort area lined with hotels and restaurants catering to a thriving tourist industry.
South Padre Island isn’t technically a separate island; rather, it’s the name of the resort community (population 2,871) at the southern portion of the big island. The town is flanked by the Gulf of Mexico to the east, a narrow ship channel to the north, and the Laguna Madre, the narrow bay leading to the Texas mainland.
Spanish explorers visited the area in the 1500s, but the resort community remained a barren stretch of pristine seashore until the 1950s when a causeway bridge connected Port Isabel to South Padre Island. Although it provided access to the nicest beaches on the Texas coast, the community remained a low-key resort destination until the late 1970s, when insurance companies were required to provide hurricane coverage and the population increased rather dramatically (from 314 to 1,012 residents) thanks to the growing emphasis on tourism. For the past two decades, it’s become a major spring break destination for college students, who descend on the small town by the thousands for revelry and recreation each March.
Island time is good for the soul. Everything slows down, priorities shift to beach activities and seafood options, and even tightly wound drivers lay off their car horns. It may take a day or two to assimilate to South Padre mode, but once you’re there, you won’t want to leave.
South Padre is the ultimate beach vacation in Texas. Its soft, smooth sand is far more inviting and picturesque than the grainier, darker versions farther north along the coast. The resort community offers everything seaside travelers seek—beachcombing, fishing, windsurfing, dolphin-viewing, biking, snorkeling, and scuba diving. Lodging options range from opulent resort condos to pitching a tent on the beach, and restaurants offer gulf-harvested oysters, shrimp, and fish.
If you’re visiting in the winter, you’ll be surrounded by midwestern license plates and polite retirees taking advantage of restaurants’ early-bird specials. In the summer, Texas families flock to the island to play in the gentle waves and devour fried shrimp. Any time of the year is a good time to visit South Padre, since the beach is always pleasant and the vibe is always mellow (except during spring break).
The islanders take their enviable natural resources seriously, offering opportunities for visitors to experience the wonders of this region. Make a point of taking a dolphin tour and visiting the sea turtle research center to get a true appreciation of the sealife that doesn’t end up on your dinner plate.
Though it takes some effort to get to South Padre, once you’re there, maneuvering around the small town is a breeze. After crossing the Queen Isabella Causeway, take a left onto Padre Boulevard to reach the main drag, with hotels, shops, and restaurants. Take a right off the causeway to reach the public beaches and seaside attractions.
Despite the fact that real waves are lapping at the shore just 100 feet away, families still flock to the water rides at Schlitterbahn Beach Waterpark (33261 State Park Rd. 100, 956/772-7873, www.schlitterbahn.com, Apr.-Sept. daily 10am-8pm, $40-52). Without any pesky sand and saltwater to worry about, kids and adults can spend the day gliding and cruising along water trails and rides, including popular attractions such as tube chutes, the Boogie Bahn surfing ride, uphill water coasters, and the Rio Ventura. The park recently added an indoor year-round area as part of its Beach Resort hotel, allowing travelers to experience the thrill of playing in an 80-degree environment of wavy water even if it’s in the 50s outside. Despite having “only” a half-dozen attractions, the indoor area is immensely fun, offering giant twisty waterslides, a riveting tube ride in a propulsive river, the Pirate’s Cove kids’ area with mini slides and engaging activities, and even a traditional carousel. Unlike the original Schlitterbahn in New Braunfels, which is far more spread out with meandering, lazy inner-tube rides, the South Padre version is more compact and beach-oriented, with a five-story sand castle fun house and a surprisingly good restaurant (the Shrimp Haus). Also, if you find you’ve had enough of the fake wave action, the resort provides a bonus amenity: easy beach access. Guests can walk down a short boardwalk to the real beach for some enjoyable bodysurfing and beachcombing. Schlitterbahn even provides umbrellas and lounge chairs to let you kick back, relax, and soak up the genuinely relaxing sounds of waves, seagulls, and seaside activity.
A heartwarming experience awaits at Sea Turtle, Inc. (6617 Padre Blvd., 956/761-4511, www.seaturtleinc.com, Tues.-Sun. 10am-4pm, donations requested), an unassuming little spot at the end of South Padre’s main strip. Inside, you’ll find tanks full of various types and sizes of sea turtles, several native to the nearby Gulf Coast. Each turtle is identified in a separate tank, often with a tear-jerking tale about the unfortunate experience (boat propeller, fishing line, animal attack) that brought it to the rehab site. Try to arrive at 10am for the informative presentation offering context about the several dozen friendly and fascinating creatures on-site. Kids can feed the turtles, and everyone has a chance for a photo op. Marvel at these prehistoric animals—some can reach 450 pounds—and toss an extra few dollars in the box for this organization that works tirelessly to protect and promote these endangered sea creatures.
Sea Turtle, Inc. rescues injured sea turtles near South Padre Island.
Kids aren’t the only ones who’ll learn something at the nearby Dolphin Research and Sea Life Nature Center (110 N. Garcia St., Port Isabel, 956/299-1957, www.spinaturecenter.com, daily 10am-4pm, $3 donation requested). This low-key locale just across the causeway from South Padre contains about 20 aquariums filled with sea creatures from the gulf waters. Shrimp, starfish, rays, and eels await at the center, which offers a children’s program at 11am and 2pm (call ahead to ensure it’s available) allowing youngsters to handle and feed some of the nonthreatening species in the touch tanks. Knowledgeable staffers educate visitors about environmentally responsible ways to enjoy their time on the island.
It’s well worth the 74-step climb up the tight spiral staircase to experience the breathtaking views from the Port Isabel Lighthouse (421 E. Queen Isabella Blvd., Port Isabel, 800/527-6102, http://portisabellighthouse.com, summer Sun.-Thurs. 10am-6pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-8pm, winter daily 9am-5pm, $4 adults, $3 seniors, $2 students). From the bug-size cars passing over the gorgeous Laguna Madre on the Queen Isabella Causeway to the remarkable view of adjacent historic downtown Port Isabel, the vantage point from this historic lighthouse is truly a sight to behold. Constructed in 1852 at the request of sea captains frustrated by visibility issues along the low-lying Texas coast, the lighthouse was a prominent and necessary fixture in the region until the early 1900s, when newer, more efficient, and more powerful towers were constructed. Sixteen similar lighthouses graced the Texas coast at one time, but the Port Isabel structure is the only facility remaining open to the public.
Not quite as family-oriented as other area attractions, the Pan American Coastal Studies Laboratory (100 Marine Lab Dr., 956/761-2644, www.utpa.edu/csl, Sun.-Fri. 1:30pm-4:30pm, free) is designed more with researchers in mind than kiddos. Regardless, you’ll learn things here about the plant and animal life in the Laguna Madre and Gulf of Mexico through interactive displays (shark jaws, turtle shells) and limited aquariums.
The beach is everywhere at South Padre, so you won’t have any trouble finding a place to park and tote your gear to the soft, white sand (don’t forget to bring plenty of sunscreen and bottled water). Look for public beach access points every few blocks along Gulf Boulevard.
For a few more amenities—pavilions, picnic tables, and playgrounds in addition to the restrooms and showers—go to one of the county beach parks on the southern or northern ends of the island. The most popular of the two is the southern option—Isla Blanca Park (33174 State Park Rd. 100, 956/761-5494, www.cameroncountyparks.com, daily 7am-11pm, $10 per vehicle). Referred to as the “crown jewel of the system,” it features a mile-plus of pristine white sand and bright blue gulf water for swimming, surfing, and fishing. Parking is easily available, and beachcombers can step right out of a surface lot and onto the beach, where they’ll encounter pickup volleyball games, surfers, Frisbee dogs, and friendly folks strolling along the low-key surf. There are also nearly 600 RV slots available.
At the northern end is Andy Bowie Park (7300 Padre Blvd., 956/761-3704, www.cameroncountyparks.com, daily 7am-11pm, $4 per vehicle). More “rural” in nature, Andy Bowie offers access to a beachfront road that eventually opens up to 20 miles of scenic driving that certainly qualifies as off the beaten path. Horseback riding is popular here, as is wade fishing and windsurfing on the bay side.
Your one-stop shop for all things recreational in South Padre is South Padre Island Water Sports/Air Padre (5709 Padre Blvd., 956/299-9463, www.spiws.com). The company’s credo says it all: “Beautiful South Padre island is best seen from the water.” Who knew there were so many ways to experience this view? Each of the following provides a compelling option:
Steady waves draw surfers to South Padre Island’s shoreline.
Kayaks are probably the most popular way for visitors to get a steady vantage point of island scenery while getting a nice workout. SPIWS offers a surprising number of kayaks for rent, including single, tandem, fishing, surfing, and even glass-bottom varieties. Prices range $30-95.
Kiteboarding is another fun way to get a (major) workout at South Padre, though you may spend more time looking at the sky than the shoreline sights. Kiteboarding is a fairly new sport developed by thrill seekers who grew bored with simple waves or sails as a primary source of surfboard acceleration. The island’s steady winds and shallow surrounding waters are optimal for this activity. Since most visitors are new to the sport, SPIWS strongly suggests scheduling an initial lesson (starting at $99) before venturing out on their rental equipment.
Windsurfing represents a step down in intensity from kiteboarding, though it’s still an active pursuit requiring plenty of stamina. Fortunately, the island’s steady 18 mph winds make things a bit easier for consistent movement. Combined with Laguna Madre’s relatively calm waters and shallow, sandy floor, windsurfing offers a fun and easy way to zip around the shoreline.
Traditional surfing remains an appealing option for many island visitors, and you’ll see board-toting guys and gals on most stretches of the beach. The waves aren’t major, but they’re ideal for honing new (or improving existing) skills. One of the best ways to get your feet wet is through a SPIWS group lesson, offered daily. And you’ll find all the equipment you’ll ever need for rent or purchase, from soft-stop surfboards to traditional longboards to leashes.
Stand-up paddleboarding is certainly the “easiest” way to experience South Padre via a water sport, and it represents a viable option for visitors seeking a low-key way to see the sights while maintaining an exercise routine. The wide boards help with stability and balance, and the canoe-style paddles provide plenty of propulsion power. SPIWS offers lessons for newbies and rental equipment.
With its clear water and fine sand, the South Padre Island area is a haven for scuba divers and snorkelers. The fish aren’t as varied and colorful as you’ll find in more exotic tropical locales, but the marine life is certainly intriguing, and you never know what you might find among the reefs and rigs.
Those interested in snorkeling and shallow shore dives can explore the underwater action at the Mansfield Jetties, the beach at Dolphin Cove (look for sand dollars here), and the adjacent Barracuda Bay. Scuba divers will enjoy the artificial reef (a wreck dive known as “the tug”) seven miles southeast of the Brazos Santiago Pass Jetties. Farther out and most compelling to experienced divers are the oil rigs, where fish of all sizes are plentiful.
South Padre has several full-service dive shops offering equipment for rent and sale, organized excursions to prime spots, instruction, and service. One of the most reputable companies is Southern Wave (201 W. Pike St., 956/772-7245, www.sailspi.com). Another noteworthy option is American Diving (1 Padre Blvd., 956/761-2030, www.divesouthpadre.com).
Like most coastal communities, fishing is a huge draw in South Padre. Everywhere you look, you’ll see anglers with a fishing pole standing on a beach, jetty, or pier. If they aren’t standing on shore, they’re in a chartered boat. Shoreline fishers tend to snag redfish, speckled trout, and flounder, while deep-sea adventurers seek tarpon, marlin, kingfish, mackerel, flounder, and wahoo.
Many anglers use the services of the venerable Jim’s Pier (209 W. Whiting St., 956/761-2865), which bills itself as the original South Padre Island fishing-guide company. Jim’s provides boat slips, fueling docks, a launching ramp, and fish-cleaning facilities. The company also offers two bay fishing trips daily on its renowned 40-person-capacity party boat. To find out more about fishing locations and services, consult the Port Isabel/South Padre Island Guides Association (www.fishspi.com), offering a lengthy list of endorsed professional fishing guides.
Even though you don’t technically get in the water to take on this activity, it’s ocean-based and certainly worth experiencing. The Laguna Madre is home to myriad bottlenose dolphins, and there’s nothing like the thrill of seeing them up close in their natural environment. The best way to get an intimate experience is through an independent tour company like Fins to Feathers (tours operate from Port Isabel’s Sea Life Center, 956/299-0629, www.fin2feather.com, tours daily 7am-sunset, $25 per person). Enjoy a personalized experience from a small boat, allowing up close views and interaction with the knowledgeable guide, a colorful character accompanied by a dolphin-finding dog. Anticipate the surge of excitement you’ll feel when that first dorsal fin ascends from the water and the sun glistens off the smooth gray surface of these magnificent and elegant creatures.
South Padre is not known as a hiking destination. That being said, there’s plenty of shoreline to explore by foot, just not in the traditional way of strapping on boots and following trails. To experience the island as a biped, head to Andy Bowie Park (7300 Padre Blvd., 956/761-3704, www.cameroncountyparks.com, daily 7am-11pm, $4 per vehicle). The park offers access to a beachfront road/trail (watch out for rogue vehicles) that eventually opens up to extremely isolated areas.
Like hiking, South Padre isn’t the first place that comes to mind when most cyclists are looking for an adventurous trail to tackle. Most bikes on the island are either loud motorcycles or the basket-toting variety operated by Winter Texans. However, cyclists will certainly enjoy the novel challenge of pedaling a “Fat Sand Bike” on the beach, a surprisingly quick and easy way to navigate in the soft sand. Rentals are available at South Padre Island Water Sports/Air Padre (5709 Padre Blvd., 956/299-9463, www.spiws.com) from half days to a week ($40-250).
After a day of playing in the ocean, the perfect place to relax and enjoy a cold glass of quality suds is Padre Island Brewing Company (3400 Padre Blvd., 956/761-9585, www.pibrewingcompany.com, Sun.-Thurs. 11:30am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11:30am-11pm, $8-19). Not surprisingly, beer is the main theme here, with home-brew supplies such as kettles, burlap sacks, and vintage bottles serving as surrounding scenery. It’s a refreshing change of pace from the ubiquitous corporate light-beer signs in most beach establishments. Fortunately, the handcrafted beer is commendable, particularly the Padre Pale Ale and Spotted Trout Stout. There’s food, too, including seafood and traditional bar fare like burgers, nachos, ribs, and sandwiches. Look for a seat on the 2nd-floor outdoor deck.
Padre Island Brewing Company
For the ultimate sampling of island leisure activity, belly up to Louie’s Backyard (2305 Laguna Dr., 956/761-6406, www.lbyspi.com, daily 11:30am-2am, $9-28). During spring break, Louie’s is party central, with multiple decks of dance floors and swirling light shows. The bartenders work quickly and ably, and the drinks are potent and tasty. Speaking of tasty—before hitting the bar, consider going to the sumptuous buffet. Choose from boiled shrimp, crab legs, fish, and scallops along with ribs, pasta, and salad. The full menu has even better options, including a buttery and flaky flounder fillet and crispy, flavorful fried shrimp. Top off your experience with a stunning view of the sunset over the bay while sipping Louie’s signature cocktail, the multi-liquored (and aptly named) Whammy.
South Padre regulars have been celebrating the return of a favorite bar in a new location. Parrot Eyes (5801 Padre Blvd., 956/761-9457, Mon.-Fri. 11am-7pm, Sat.-Sun. 11am-9pm, www.parroteyesspi.com) is Buffett-esque, with its laid-back vibe and beach-lovin’ patrons, who also enjoy indulging in a cocktail or four. Grab a drink and try to snag a spot on the small deck overlooking the bay. If you’re feeling adventurous (during spring break or any time at all), order the Parrot-Head Paralizer, a crazy concoction of multiple liquors and fruit juices that helps you hang on (to the bar).
For those seeking the spring break vibe, head to Coconuts Bar and Grill (2301 Laguna Dr., 956/761-4218, daily 10am-2am, www.coconutsspi.com). Coconuts has good food, but it’s known mainly for its festive activities during the day (water sports rentals and recreation) and night (occasionally raucous bar scene with friendly and generously pouring waitstaff).
The community of South Padre knows how to show its visitors and residents a good time, as evidenced by several fun annual outdoor events. One of the first to draw big crowds each year is early February’s SPI Kitefest (956/761-1248, www.bskites.com). Held at the Sand Flats north of the SPI Convention Centre, Kitefest features hundreds of colorful kites punctuating the crisp blue sky. The steady ocean breeze helps keep even beginners’ kites aloft, but there are also experts on hand to demonstrate new equipment and kite-flying skills and distribute prizes.
Of course, the community’s (and even one of the state’s) biggest beach event of the year is spring break (http://springbreak.sopadre.com), when tens of thousands of college students and similarly minded partiers descend on South Padre en masse to . . . party. Although revelers arrive throughout the entire month of March, the heaviest dose of craziness occurs during Texas Week, typically the second or third week of March. To find out more about joining (or avoiding) the chaos, check the website.
Much mellower is the island’s annual Texas State Surfing Championship (www.surftgsa.org), usually held in late April or early May (dates are based on surf swell). This invitational competition for all ages is held in Isla Blanca Park on the extreme southern tip of the island and considered the area’s crown jewel.
One of the first places many beach-town visitors go is a seaside seafood restaurant. Even before you check in to your hotel room you may want to drop by a low-key local eatery like Palm Street Pier Bar & Grill (204 W. Palm St., 956/772-7256, www.palmstreetpier.com, daily 11am-midnight, $8-18), known for its tantalizing seafood and sunsets. Overlooking the scenic Laguna Madre, Palm Street Pier specializes in tasty shrimp dishes. The fried shrimp is especially wonderful, and the coconut and stuffed varieties are nearly as tasty. Don’t miss the cheap margaritas and summertime Friday-night fireworks over the bay. Another bonus is the “you hook it, we’ll cook it” policy, allowing diners to bring in their own fresh catch and have it expertly prepared—blackened, grilled, or fried with two sides—for $6. Worth noting: Palm Street operates on island time, so don’t expect your food to arrive quickly.
Also drawing regular return customers is the venerable and well-regarded Blackbeard’s (103 E. Saturn Ln., 956/761-2962, www.blackbeardsspi.com, daily 11:30am-9pm, $8-21), a swashbuckling-themed spot with surprisingly refined food. Fresh gulf catches are the main draw here, including flounder and tilapia, but the landlubber options are equally commendable, including the charbroiled steaks and grilled chicken. Incidentally, the burgers here are the best on the island.
A local favorite in a new location is Daddy’s Cajun Kitchen & Seafood Market (1801 Padre Blvd., 956/761-1975, www.daddysrestaurant.com, daily 11am-10pm, $9-22). Housed in the two-story building previously occupied by Garcia’s, Daddy’s offers a slightly different take on traditional South Texas Gulf Coast seafood, with Creole and Cajun specialties. Choose from popular standards like jambalaya, gumbo, and crawfish étouffée, or opt for one of the in-house lunch specials such as a crispy panko-breaded shrimp or almond-crusted fish fillet topped with crab and cheese sauce.
South Padre also has a couple highly recommended seafood restaurants that are more upscale. In a casual town like this, however, that simply means the quality and prices are higher—you can still wear shorts and sandals. One of the most popular is the remarkable S Sea Ranch Restaurant (1 Padre Blvd., 956/761-1314, www.searanchrestaurant.com, Sun.-Thurs. 4:30pm-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 4:30pm-10pm, $9-42), the kind of place where you can’t go wrong with anything on the menu, be it “from the sea” or “from the grill.” The options change regularly, but the mantra of the Sea Ranch remains constant: serving quality “local wild-caught” seafood directly from the gulf. Signature dishes include grilled flounder, boiled king crab legs, gulf shrimp and bay oysters, and an amazing ahi tuna served rare with soy sauce and wasabi. Topping it all off is an exceptional view of the sea. Reservations are suggested.
Another popular seafood spot is Pier 19 (1 Padre Blvd., 956/761-7437, www.pier19.us, $8-39). Don’t let the KOA Kampground sign scare you away—simply drive past a few hundred campers until the road ends at this fine local establishment. Located literally on the water, this seafood and steak restaurant gets marks for its consistent high-quality food. Highlights on the menu include shrimp (the peel-and-eat plates are perfectly prepared, as are the sautéed and fried options), blackened rockfish, and local flounder, pompano, and amberjack. The Baja tacos (with grilled shrimp) are especially tasty, bursting with the complementary flavors of savory shrimp, spicy jalapeño, and sweet mango. An added bonus: On some weekends, the staff “treats” diners to a pirate-themed show; if you’re unable to witness this performance, keep your eye out instead for dolphins, which are known to make occasional appearances in the water below.
Pier 19 is a popular seafood restaurant.
If you’ve somehow exhausted your craving for seafood, your next best bet is standard beach fare—burgers, pizzas, fried stuff, and, in South Padre, Tex-Mex. One of the best places in town to combine all these things with a cold glass of quality suds is Padre Island Brewing Company (3400 Padre Blvd., 956/761-9585, www.pibrewingcompany.com, Sun.-Thurs. 11:30am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11:30am-11pm, $8-19). The handcrafted beer is commendable, particularly the Padre Island Pale Ale and Spotted Trout Stout, to go along with traditional bar fare like burgers, nachos, ribs, and sandwiches. To experience a combination of the island’s most tantalizing taste bud sensations, order a pale ale with a gulf-stuffed flounder, a flavorful fillet packed with crab and topped with a creamy shrimp sauce. To enhance the experience even further, ask for a seat on the 2nd-floor outdoor deck.
For a tasty burger and cold beer, head to Tom & Jerry’s Beach Bar & Grill (3212 Padre Blvd., 956/761-8999, daily 11am-10pm, $7-19). The seafood dishes here are commendable, but the beach grub is the main draw, from the burgers to the chicken plates to the chicken-fried steak and club sandwich. After your meal, head to the raised bar, where friendly staffers will gladly pour you a cold draft beer or expertly mix a frozen concoction.
Lodging rates in a beach town are akin to those in a ski village—they can be mile-high in the busy season and downright affordable the rest of the year. The following South Padre accommodations include prices for a weekend stay in midsummer (the busy getaway season in Texas, despite the fact it’s 93 degrees and humid).
Among the affordable options is South Beach Inn (120 E. Jupiter Ln., 956/761-2471, www.southbeachtexas.com, $49-125), an independently owned 12-unit establishment nestled among the palms just a block from the beach. One of the oldest hotel buildings on the island (1961), South Beach offers mostly efficiency-style kitchenettes with full-size stoves, refrigerators, microwaves, and toasters. Pets are welcome, and Wi-Fi service is available.
The next step on the price ladder gets you a bit closer to the action with some added amenities. One of the more popular and reliable options is the Ramada Limited (4109 Padre Blvd., 956/761-4097, www.ramadasouthpadreisland.com, $161 d), offering a free hot breakfast, an outdoor pool and hot tub, and rooms with microwaves, fridges, and free wireless Internet access. Also worth noting: Pets are welcome at the Ramada. Closer to the Queen Isabella Causeway is the casual yet consistent Super 8 (4205 Padre Blvd., 956/761-6300, www.super8padre.com, $110 d), offering a heated outdoor pool, free continental breakfast, free Wi-Fi access, and mini microwaves and refrigerators.
The Travelodge (6200 Padre Blvd., 956/761-4744, www.southpadretravelodge.com, $161 d) offers a large outdoor pool and hot tub, a private walkway to the beach, free wireless Internet access, a deluxe continental breakfast, and microwaves and refrigerators in each room. Another good option is Beachside Inn (4500 Padre Blvd., 956/761-4919, www.padrebeachside.com, $165 d), featuring clean, simple rooms within walking distance of the beach, an outdoor pool with hot tub, and kitchenettes with microwaves and refrigerators. For a clean and reliable chain hotel, consider Holiday Inn Express (6502 Padre Blvd., 956/761-8844, www.hiexpress.com, $199 d). What sets it apart from the other corporate choices is the massive aquarium in the lobby with dozens of colorful fish darting about. Otherwise, the amenities here are pretty standard, including an outdoor pool, a fitness center, beach access, Wi-Fi access, and rooms with microwaves and refrigerators.
One of the newest places to stay and play on the island is S Schlitterbahn Beach Resort (33261 State Park Rd. 100, 956/772-7873, www.schlitterbahn.com/spi, $219 d and up). The resort is an ideal family getaway at any time of the year, since it includes an indoor water park. The new accommodations are clean and comfortable, with quality bed linens, fancy flat-screen TVs, and an interesting heavy-timber theme. Be sure to set aside some time in the evening to experience the pleasure of ordering a nightcap cocktail at the resort’s swim-up bar in the heated pool.
Schlitterbahn Beach Resort
Among the most well-known and luxurious choices on the island is the Isla Grand (500 Padre Blvd., 800/292-7704, www.islagrand.com, $220 d), boasting perhaps the best beachfront location in town with excellent services. Rooms include free Internet access, microwaves, and refrigerators. Consider upgrading to a condo suite—the spacious rooms, living area with a couch and second TV, fully equipped kitchen, and separate bathrooms (a godsend for those with kids) provide a perfect home away from home. It’s the hotel’s grounds, however, that keep guests coming back for repeated recreational relaxation. Enjoy the direct beach access, two outdoor swimming pools with a cascading waterfall, three whirlpools, four lighted tennis courts, shuffleboard courts, and plenty of lounge chairs.
The recently renovated former Best Western is now La Copa Inn Beach Resort (350 Padre Blvd., 956/761-6000, www.lacoparesort.com, $264 d). Upgrades to the former chain include free Internet service, a free deluxe continental breakfast, and nightly happy hour with beer, wine, and snacks.
For a step up, consider another hotel-to-resort renovation: the Pearl South Padre (310 Padre Blvd., 956/761-6551, www.pearlsouthpadre.com, $289 d). Occupying 15 tropical beachside acres, this former Sheraton hotel is a comfortable yet fancy spot with ample amenities and several types of accommodations. Choose from standard guest rooms, kitchenettes, suites, or even fully equipped two- and three-bedroom condominiums, all with private balconies. Other amenities include an enormous 6,000-square-foot swimming pool complete with waterfall and swim-up bar, a separate oversize Jacuzzi, volleyball nets, an exercise and weight room, and seasonal parasailing.
Just down the street is the upscale (and pricey) Peninsula Island Resort & Spa (340 Padre Blvd., 956/761-2514, www.peninsulaislandresort.com, $275 d), featuring one-, two-, and three-bedroom units with kitchenettes, a swim-up pool bar, large edgeless pool, and hot tub, rooms with fancy Brazilian furniture, a gym, and an on-site convenience store. Seasonal spa services are available.
Beachfront property is too valuable to allow for many camping options in the commercial area of South Padre. In fact, there are really only a couple main options for serious RV-style campers.
The South Padre Island KOA (1 Padre Blvd., 800/562-9724, www.southpadrekoa.com, $30-60) is geared toward RVs and mobile homes, but it also has a few cabins and lodges available. Site amenities include an outdoor pool, a fitness center, a recreation room, and free wireless Internet service. Bonus: The adjacent Pier 19 restaurant is one of the best places on the island to enjoy a quality seafood meal.
Another busy option for RVers is Isla Blanca Park (33174 State Park Rd. 100, 956/761-5494, www.cameroncountyparks.com, $25-40). Referred to as the “crown jewel of the system,” the park offers nearly 600 RV slots. Other features include a mile-plus of pristine white sand and bright blue gulf water for swimming, surfing, and fishing.
Those looking for a more rustic, natural experience have the option of pitching a tent (or parking an RV) on the vast unpopulated stretch of sand north of all the major recreational activity. Local officials caution campers to drive on the wet sand to avoid getting stuck in the soft tractionless powder farther away from the surf. Also, be sure to bring your garbage back with you (there aren’t any trash cans in these remote areas) and take the No Trespassing signs seriously.
The incredibly friendly and helpful people at the South Padre Island Convention & Visitors Bureau (600 Padre Blvd., 956/761-6433 or 800/767-2373, www.sopadre.com, Mon.-Fri. 8am-5pm, Sat-Sun. 9am-5pm) will provide you with brochures, maps, and information about area attractions. You can also check with them about activities and events related to fishing, boating, and other ocean-based recreation.
a sand castle at the South Padre Island Convention & Visitors Bureau
The Brownsville South Padre Island International Airport (700 S. Minnesota Ave., 956/542-4373, www.flybrownsville.com) is the closest airport to South Padre. At 27 miles away, it’s not too far, especially if you need to get to the beach in a hurry and don’t feel like making the nearly nine-hour drive from Dallas or approximately five-hour trek from Houston or Austin. The airport offers several American Eagle and United Airlines flights daily to and from Houston. Rental car services are available at the airport.
Once on the island, feel free to ditch the car in favor of the city’s reliable and often-necessary Wave transportation system (866/761-1025, visit www.spadre.com/thewave.htm for schedule and stops). If you plan to have a beer or six during spring break, you’ll be glad these small buses are there to cart your body safely home. Though the Wave typically operates 7am-9pm daily among local businesses and services, it’s also available for late-night stops during spring break to shuttle impaired revelers. Incidentally, the belligerent scene on the ride back from the bar at 3am is one of the most insane experiences imaginable.