Franklin Mountains State Park
Guadalupe Mountains National Park
Socorro Mission.
Mention the word Texas to most people, and this region of the state is likely what they envision. West Texas is hot, dry, largely flat, and, yes, occasionally dotted with cactus and cow skulls.
The Chihuahuan Desert extends north into West Texas, accounting for its arid environment and temperature extremes. Portions of the region receive as little as eight inches of rain annually (compared to an average of 50 inches in East Texas), and temperatures typically range from the 40s overnight to daytime highs in the 80s. There’s something to be said for the dry heat—most Texans find it a welcome respite from the oppressive humidity along the Gulf Coast and into the central prairies.
This region has been home to Native American tribes for more than 10,000 years, and several settlements date to the 17th century (considered ancient by Texas standards). The Ysleta and Socorro Missions east of El Paso were established after the Pueblo Revolt of 1680 sent Native Americans and Spaniards from present-day New Mexico south along the Rio Grande.
Centuries later, westward expansion would forever affect the region as thousands of people from the eastern United States braved the frontier in search of opportunity. Military personnel erected frontier forts along existing trade routes, ranchers explored the area in search of open land, and post offices popped up to serve the burgeoning communities. Travelers in West Texas can still see the natural splendor the region’s settlers initially encountered—majestic mountains, dramatic river canyons, and the outstretched sky—as they zoom along at the posted speed limit of 80 mph on I-10 or U.S. Highway 90.
The residents of this far-reaching region tend to be fiery and independent-minded. Many live on large ranches and value their solitude without intrusion from neighbors, or particularly the “gub-mint.” With such a low population density, West Texans are often ignored and disassociated with the rest of the state, and it’s not surprising that people in El Paso have more in common with New Mexico and Old Mexico than Texas. The western portion of the region is even in a completely different time zone (Mountain) than the rest of the state.
Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.
S El Paso Mission Trail: The mesmerizing missions transport visitors to an era of 1600s Spanish colonialism via three fascinating architectural structures (click here).
S Franklin Mountains State Park: This geographically astonishing playground features a thrilling gondola ride with incredible views of the desert landscape (click here).
S Hueco Tanks State Historic Site: Marvel at the park’s mythological rock art and colorful animal figures and painted masks, representing the lifeways of the region’s prehistoric cultures (click here).
S Guadalupe Peak Trail: This trail leads hikers to stunning views of the colorful canyon walls and rugged surrounding outcroppings from the summit of the highest point in Texas (click here).
S The Petroleum Museum: This enormous structure in Midland showcases every possible aspect of the product and industry that forever altered the fate of West Texas (click here).
S Monahans Sandhills State Park: A true otherworldly experience rises out of the West Texas desert scrub with miles of blindingly white sand dunes, where families flock to sandsurf among the tracks of snakes, birds, and lizards (click here).
The Wild West spirit thrives in this sunbaked region, where visitors can still find traces of the Old West in its charming, windswept communities. Oil derricks remain a common sight in the Midland/Odessa area, and breathtaking views of sheer cliffs, rock towers, and mountain passes prevail in Guadalupe Mountains National Park. This mythical part of the state draws visitors from around the world seeking the fabled image of Texas’s rugged and independent spirit.
This region of West Texas isn’t unified by many things, other than the desert-ish climate and I-10. Fortunately, the views along the interstate are impressive, ranging from mountains in the El Paso area to mesas and basins farther east. Keep in mind that there’s a time zone border (Mountain and Central) in this region, located about an hour’s drive east of El Paso.
El Paso is Texas’s sixth-largest city, but it’s largely forgotten by the rest of the state (El Pasoans don’t necessarily mind that). The city is unfortunately defined by I-10, which carves through the middle of town and generally leaves an unfavorable impression on the many drivers who pass through en route to or from California. Travelers should make an effort to pull off the freeway for a while to soak up El Paso’s unique borderland culture, featuring adobe neighborhoods, Wild West heritage, and some of the tastiest Mexican food in the state.
About four hours to the east (just down the road in West Texas standards) is the only other slightly significant “metropolis” in this region. Midland-Odessa, known for its big ol’ oil fields and football players, is on I-20 a few hours north of the break-off point with I-10. This is flat, dry, dusty territory, but visitors who make the effort are rewarded with distinctive cultural experiences associated with everything from petroleum to presidents.
There’s nothing compact about West Texas. In fact, locals consider the nearly four-hour drive between El Paso and Odessa a jaunt down the road. Visitors may find the trek extensive, however, especially considering that one of the most enticing carrots on Odessa’s cultural stick is a statue of the world’s largest jackrabbit.
the famous jackrabbit statue near downtown Odessa
El Paso doesn’t draw too many visitors as they zoom along busy I-10 on their way across the country, but it’s worth spending a couple days in the Sun City to experience its intriguing mix of cultural influences. The centuries-old missions, the Tigua Indian tribe, and the distinctive variety of Mexican food deserve exploration.
Set aside another couple of days to soak up the natural beauty of Guadalupe Mountains National Park, an underappreciated Texas treasure. Visitors are drawn to the park’s dramatic peaks and deep canyons for day hikes and overnight camping excursions.
For an all-inclusive West Texas experience, make the four-hour journey across the desert and into the Permian Basin for a day or two in Midland and Odessa. Known primarily for their petroleum and presidents, these cities put the Friday Night Lights and Bush family phenomena into perspective.
Visitors will find several information centers in West Texas where they can inquire about maps, brochures, directions, equipment rental, and other travel-related assistance. The biggest of the bunch is the El Paso Convention Center and Visitors Bureau (1 Civic Center Plaza, 915/534-0600, www.elpasocvb.com, Mon.-Fri. 8am-5pm, Sat.-Sun. 10am-3pm). The Texas Department of Transportation operates a Tourist Information Center (8799 S. Desert Blvd., 915/886-3468, daily 8am-5pm) five miles west of town on I-10 with an extensive selection of Texas-related maps and publications.
If you’re heading to Guadalupe Mountains National Park, contact the visitors center at Pine Springs on U.S. Highway 62/180 (915/828-3251, www.nps.gov/gumo, daily 8am-4:30pm Mountain Time).
For those planning a trip to Midland, contact the Midland Convention & Visitors Bureau (109 N. Main St., 432/683-3381 or 800/624-6435, www.visitmidlandtexas.com) or drop by the George & Gladys Hanger Abell Old Rankin Highway Visitor Center (1406 W. I-20, 432/687-8285). In Odessa, get in touch with the Odessa Convention and Visitors Bureau (700 N. Grant, Ste. 200, 800/780-4678, www.odessacvb.com).
For general information about cities and attractions in the region, the Texas Mountain Trail (432/284-0002, www.texasmountaintrail.com) is a helpful organization under the direction of the Texas Historical Commission covering the six westernmost counties of far West Texas. Its regional office is based in Alpine, and its website is packed with useful tidbits about the region. Another handy resource for exploring regional destinations is the Texas Travel Information Center (8799 S. Desert Blvd., Anthony, 915/886-3468), on the New Mexico border, where you’ll find travel professionals ready to assist you concerning road conditions, trip planning, routings, points of interest, and events.
If you have a few extra days, consider making the drive to West Texas from points east (as opposed to flying). Marvel at the topographic transformation as the Hill Country slowly blends into basin and desert terrain complete with mini mesas and a surprising amount of color thanks to the wildflowers and stratified rock terrain. If you’re pressed for time, hop aboard a cheap Southwest Airlines flight to El Paso International Airport (6701 Convair Rd., 915/780-4749, www.elpasointernationalairport.com), about five miles east of downtown. The airport operates international flights from most major airlines, including American, Delta, Southwest, and United.
The airport also has several taxi stands and staff members representing the major car rental companies. Since it’s so close to I-10, cab fare to downtown El Paso can run as little as $20. Renting a car is typically the best option, however, since most travelers will want to traverse the sprawling metropolis and the Wild West environs beyond its city limits.
The city’s public transportation service, Sun Metro (915/533-1220, www.sunmetro.net), provides bus routes from the airport to downtown. Call or check the website for information about rates and routes to your destination.
Once in town, Sun Metro is a cheap way to get around as long as you’re familiar with the stops and neighborhoods. A day pass costs $4. Dozens of bus lines run to all parts of the city, typically every 20-45 minutes. There is no public transportation across the border to Ciudad Juarez, and even though it’s not as dangerous as it was a few years ago, casual visitation remains discouraged.
For those heading straight to Guadalupe Mountains National Park, the closest airport is nearly 60 miles north in Carlsbad, New Mexico. Though service is provided only by Mesa Airlines from Albuquerque, it’s an hour closer than El Paso. For Carlsbad flight information, contact Cavern City Air Terminal (505/887-1500, www.airnav.com). The El Paso airport is approximately 110 miles west of the park on U.S. Highway 62/180.
Midland is a good four-hour drive from El Paso, and Southwest Airlines flights are pretty cheap to this oil-based community occasionally referred to as the “tall city of the plains.” Midland International Airport (9506 Laforce Blvd., 432/560-2200, www.flymaf.com) lies approximately 10 miles west of Midland and 10 miles east of Odessa, and offers flights from American, Southwest, and Continental Airlines. Located at a former army airfield in the heart of the petroleum-rich Permian Basin, the Midland airport typically has more private jets than commercial airliners on its dusty runway.
In some ways, El Paso (population 681,124) doesn’t really belong in Texas, and there are residents of this remote border town who would wholeheartedly agree. Culturally and geographically, El Paso has more in common with New Mexico and even Old Mexico, but the fiery Wild West spirit that permeates the town makes it a perfect fit for independent-minded West Texas.
El Paso’s downtown plaza
The city’s history is marked by renowned outlaws like Pancho Villa and Billy the Kid. One of the more colorful local legends claims Billy the Kid once broke into a jail just east of town, pointed a six-shooter at the jailer’s face, and demanded he set his friend free. Afterward, he locked the jailer in the cell, threw away the keys, and rode off on horseback across the Rio Grande into Mexico.
The most significant aspect of El Paso’s history, however, lies along the magnificent Mission Trail east of the city. These significant structures have a rich heritage dating to the 1600s, and several are still active parishes. The seemingly ancient past they represent—Spanish colonial efforts to convert the native population to Catholicism—is nearly as fascinating as their compelling whitewashed adobe walls and rustic timber-laden interiors.
Despite their magnitude, the missions only represent a slice of El Paso’s vibrant history. For centuries the city’s fate has been tied to Mexico, particularly the cross-border town of Ciudad Juarez. Commercial activity has existed for hundreds of years along the traditional north-south trading routes for Spaniards and Indians. The city’s name, originally El Paso del Rio del Norte (“the pass of the river to the north”), is a geographical reference to the accessible location used by traders and travelers.
Throughout the 1900s, El Paso and Juarez significantly impacted each other’s development, especially with industry and manufacturing endeavors such as mining, natural gas, and clothing production providing labor and administrative jobs on both sides of the border. The population of both cities shifted rather dramatically in the 20th century—El Paso had a population of approximately 100,000 in 1930 while Juarez had about 45,000 residents. Juarez currently has nearly 1.7 million people while El Paso has a population approaching 700,000. Locals note that 50 years ago, El Paso was considered an Anglo town with a strong Hispanic flavor; now it’s thought of as a Hispanic town with an Anglo flavor.
Though residents used to freely cross the bridges over the Rio Grande to visit family and conduct business, this slowed considerably during the past decade of drug cartels and escalated violence. In fact, upward of 40,000 Mexicans have moved to El Paso in the past several years to flee the gunfire and kidnappings associated with the cartels and smaller groups exploiting the fear factor in Mexico. The massive influx has had a significant impact on El Paso—construction was omnipresent at a time when the rest of the country was mired in the Great Recession. Though some have questioned the source of funding for all these new building projects, others have welcomed the restaurants and businesses that previously were only accessible by making a treacherous border run. A new downtown AAA minor league baseball stadium spurred development and changed the face of the landscape.
In the past, visitors were drawn to El Paso for its proximity to Ciudad Juarez—the largest city along the Texas-U.S. border, where they could spend the day shopping for bargains and eat a cheap and tasty authentic meal. For several years, the drug cartels scared everyone off (including tens of thousands of fellow Mexicans), and many potential visitors were also wary of El Paso due to its proximity to Juarez. Never fear—incredibly, El Paso was named America’s safest city in the early 2010s by independent research firm CQ Press. Although a border run remains a slightly dicey proposition, tourists are still encouraged to visit El Paso to experience the area’s distinctive history—from Native Americans to Spanish conquistadors to Mexicans and Wild West outlaws, the people of El Paso’s past left a cultural legacy and related tourist attractions unique to Texas and the United States.
Even if you’re only in El Paso one day, make a point of traversing the Mission Trail, an eight-mile route southeast of the city (accessible via marked exits on I-10, 915/534-0677, call for hours of public access, free) containing three fascinating historic structures. The centuries-old and still active missions of Ysleta (131 S. Zaragosa Rd., 915/859-9848, www.ysletamission.org) and Socorro (328 S. Nevarez Rd., 915/859-7718) and the presidio chapel of San Elizario (1521 San Elizario Rd., 915/851-1682) were constructed in the 1800s, but their original settlements date to the 17th and 18th centuries.
the San Elizario presidio chapel on El Paso’s Mission Trail
Serving as lasting testaments to the Spanish colonial influence on the American Southwest, the missions originated as chapels designed to convert the native population to Catholicism. The success of the missions’ mission may not be enduring, but these magnificent adobe buildings are truly a sight to behold.
The Ysleta and Socorro Missions have a particularly rich heritage. Native American tribe members and Spaniards fled present-day New Mexico to the El Paso area after the Pueblo Revolt of 1680. Subsequently, they established the communities that would become Ysleta (the foundation of the Ysleta del Sur Indian Pueblo) and Socorro two miles east. The first Catholic Mass in Texas was celebrated near present-day Ysleta on October 12, 1680, to commemorate the perilous trek across the desert.
Throughout the following century, flooding affected the mission’s adobe structures, some ultimately destroyed and relocated by the ravaging waters. The fragile adobe material—comprised of sunbaked mud bricks and straw—was particularly susceptible to water damage. Painstaking efforts have been made to repair the structures—at Socorro, in particular, where experts and volunteers hand made more than 20,000 adobe bricks and conducted extensive structural repairs.
Fort Bliss is an integral part of El Paso’s past and present. What started in 1849 as an isolated frontier military post has become a 1.1-million acre home of the U.S. Army’s air defense headquarters.
In 1916, Fort Bliss served as the command center for the country’s extensive efforts to capture Mexican revolutionary leader Pancho Villa, and during World War II, the fort transformed from the country’s largest horse-cavalry post to its largest antiaircraft artillery training center. Fort Bliss has several interesting museums worth visiting, especially for military and history buffs. A forewarning: To access the museums and buildings, you’ll need to have a driver’s license, auto insurance, and vehicle registration. It’s a good idea to call several days (or even weeks) in advance to ensure you have the proper paperwork and permissions in place before making specific plans to spend time on the base.
The most intriguing attraction is the Air Defense Artillery Museum (Building 5000, Pleasanton Rd., 915/568-5412, www.bliss.army.mil, Mon.-Sat. 9am-4:30pm, free). Antiaircraft guns are the main attraction here, with an impressive collection of equipment from World War II through the present. Exhibits showcase the advances in military technology in the United States and enemy countries.
The focus shifts to airplanes and army history at the Fort Bliss Museum and Study Center (Building 1735, Marshall Rd., 915/568-4518, www.bliss.army.mil, Mon.-Sat. 9am-4:30pm, free). For serious military enthusiasts, the reference library here contains volumes of material about the army’s significant role along the Mexican border.
Also showcasing the history of the base is the Old Fort Bliss Museum (Pershing and Pleasanton Rds., 915/568-4518, www.bliss.army.mil, Mon.-Sat. 9am-4:30pm, free). Experience life at the fort as it was in the mid-1800s through replicas of original adobe fort buildings, outdoor displays, and military artifacts.
Worth noting: Scheduling a visit to a military base has become increasingly challenging, yet still doable. Be sure to call ahead to let the base know that you’re planning to visit the museums to make sure you don’t have to bring any additional identification.
Don’t be fooled by the unassuming appearance of the Tigua Indian Cultural Center (305 Yaya Ln., 915/859-7700, www.ysletadelsurpueblo.org, Wed.-Sun. 10am-3pm, free). At first glance, the Tigua’s reservation and cultural complex may appear to be empty. The streets are often quiet, and the area surrounding the cultural center’s museum and gift shop is typically vacant. Upon entering the site, however, the resounding life of this steadfast tribe’s fascinating legacy becomes apparent.
Founded in 1682, the Ysleta del Sur Pueblo, aka the Tigua Indian reservation, houses descendants of New Mexico’s Isleta Pueblo’s refugees who accompanied the Spanish during the Pueblo Revolt of 1680. The reservation is physically surrounded by the city of El Paso, but the tribe has managed to keep its culture, traditions, and language. Despite the threats of declining numbers and encroaching development during the past three centuries, the Tiguas remain strong survivors.
The tribe’s legacy is on display at its cultural center, where a modest museum showcases past leaders, proud accomplishments, documents, photos, and artifacts, including ceremonial costumes, handmade cooking items, and interpretive exhibits. An adjacent gift shop offers crafts, pottery, jewelry, and artwork made by tribe members along with educational books and brochures. A Tigua representative is usually on hand to provide insight about the tribe’s history.
On many weekends, the Tigua youth dance group performs social dances, and seasonal special events feature traditional bread baking and powwows. Call ahead to confirm events are taking place.
Experience acclaimed regional and European works of art at the El Paso Museum of Art (1 Arts Festival Plaza, 915/532-1707, www.elpasoartmuseum.org, Tues.-Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. noon-5pm, free). The diversity of the museum’s collection is rather impressive, ranging from European works from the 13th-18th centuries to Mexican colonial art to contemporary pieces from the southwestern United States. Take your time strolling through the museum’s five permanent galleries, offering a remarkable sampling of the more than 5,000 works in its collection. Temporary exhibits often showcase up-and-coming regional artists, and the museum offers a respectable schedule of lectures, films, and educational programs.
The stunning Magoffin Home State Historic Site (1120 Magoffin Ave., 915/533-5147, www.visitmagoffinhome.com, Tues.-Sat. 9am-5pm, Thurs. until 8pm, Sun. noon-5pm, $4) was built in 1875 by El Paso politician and businessman Joseph Magoffin. Now in the heart of downtown, this adobe home is considered a prime example of Territorial-style architecture, a distinctively Southwestern approach combining local adobe (sunbaked bricks comprised of mud and straw) and then-fashionable mid-Victorian wood trim. The one-story U-shaped compound owned by the Texas Historical Commission was constructed around a central patio with a plastered exterior to provide a masonry appearance. Inside, visitors will find historic photographs, antique furniture, and vintage artifacts representing the upscale yet down-home lifestyle of this prominent and popular El Pasoan who served four terms as the city’s mayor. Note the exposed fireplace, revealing adobe bricks, traditional red bricks, and fancy Victorian wallpaper, an ideal representation of the mix of cultural influences on this significant heritage site. Be sure to check out the site’s new visitors center across the street, located in a refurbished historic home that now contains several educational exhibits and information about regional attractions.
El Paso doesn’t have an abundance of kid-friendly attractions, so you’ll find most of the younger crowd running around at the small yet satisfying El Paso Zoo (4001 E. Paisano Dr., 915/544-1928, www.elpasozoo.org, daily 9:30am-5pm, $12 adults, $9 seniors, $7.50 children ages 3-12). This 18-acre site just east of downtown is home to nearly 1,000 animals representing 240 species from across the world. The Animals of Asia area is the most impressive, with tigers, orangutans, tapirs, and an endangered leopard. Highlights of the Americas area include the must-see sea lion exhibit and a cage full of spindly spider monkeys. For a city of half a million people, the zoo seems rather limited in scope, but the effective use of desert foliage and squeals of delight from children make this a worthwhile experience.
The University of Texas at El Paso’s Centennial Museum (500 W. University Ave., 915/747-5565, www.museum.utep.edu, Tues.-Sat. 10am-4:30pm, free) is one of those old-school facilities with exhibits dedicated to history and culture that harkens back to the days of being a kid on a field trip. Judging by most of the dated dioramas and stuffed animals on display, nothing’s changed much here since, but a few new exhibits (with video screens and fancy graphics) are a sign that things are slowly but surely progressing. Still, what’s on display is pretty intriguing, dedicated primarily to the heritage of native groups and the cultural history of the southwestern United States and northern Mexico. The most compelling exhibits are on the top floor, particularly the artifacts from the Pueblo, Apache, and Navajo tribes.
For some reason, the university prioritized upgrading the outdoor Chihuahuan Desert Gardens rather than the indoor exhibits. As a result, the Centennial Museum features a nice collection of distinctive flora surrounding the building. The gardens’ 600-plus species in multiple areas are fascinating, especially for those unfamiliar with the diversity of desert plantlife. The educational component here is the importance of water conservation while landscaping in this arid region.
Worth noting: Since the museum is located on a busy college campus, parking is problematic. There are several places to park behind the building, but you’ll have to deal with the slight hassle of heading upstairs to find someone to give you a parking pass, since the campus police are aggressive about ticketing permit-less people.
If the aforementioned Centennial Museum is old school in its approach to exhibiting the past, then the new school is represented by the El Paso History Museum (510 N. Santa Fe St., 915/351-3588, www.elpasotexas.gov/history, Tues.-Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. noon-5pm, free). The two-story history museum is packed with informative displays and fun features. Visitors experience maps, artifacts, and photos related to all aspects of El Paso’s past—from regional Native American tribes to the Wild West days to the city’s role in the Mexican Revolution. The museum offers numerous eye-catching displays and interactive exhibits, including computer touch screens with video clips, an amusing pop culture trivia game, audio stations with recordings about significant entrepreneurs, and hands-on architectural activities for the kids.
Though it is fairly far away from downtown, it’s worth setting aside some time on your way to/from the Franklin Mountains State Park to visit the El Paso Museum of Archaeology (4301 Transmountain Rd., 915/755-4332, www.elpasotexas.gov/arch_museum, Tues.-Sat. 9am-5pm, free). Since this part of Texas is so rich with Native American heritage, this museum is stocked with intriguing history of regional tribes (especially from the southwestern United States and northern Mexico) in dioramas, artifacts, and pottery. Make a point of strolling through the 15-acre garden that surrounds the building, with more than 200 species of cacti and other flora representing the biodiversity of the Chihuahuan Desert.
A trip to El Paso is incomplete without experiencing the country’s largest urban park. At 24,247 acres and covering nearly 37 square miles, the Franklin Mountains State Park (1331 McKelligon Canyon Rd., 915/566-6441, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, daily 8am-5pm, $5 ages 13 and older) provides a stunning natural backdrop to El Paso’s city landscape. The Franklins are considered Texas’s largest sustained mountain range, with a top elevation of 7,192 feet at the summit of North Franklin Peak. A pronounced gap in the range offering “the pass” through this rugged terrain provided the inspiration for the city’s name. For more than 12,000 years, Native American groups, Spanish conquistadors, international traders, and adventurers have traversed the pass, and evidence of these ancient travelers remains in the form of rock art pictographs in several natural shelters throughout the park. Rangers offer tours on the first and third weekends of the month. Reservations are suggested. In addition, the park contains two pleasant hiking trails (accessible from Loop 375/Transmountain Road) and established rock climbing areas in McKelligon Canyon. A limited number of primitive tent-camping and RV sites are also available.
The most popular park activity, however, is the thrilling Wyler Aerial Tramway (tickets and boarding at 1700 McKinley St., 915/566-6622, $8 ages 13 and older, $4 ages 12 and younger). The Swiss-made gondolas travel on a 2,600-foot-long cable, offering striking views of 7,000 square miles encompassing three states and two countries. Your gondola guide will describe the desert flora, intriguing wildlife, and rock formations during the five-minute ride.
It’s well worth the 45-minute drive to witness the prehistoric wonders of Hueco Tanks State Historic Site (32 miles northeast of El Paso on U.S. Hwy. 62/180, then north on RR 2775, 915/857-1135, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, $4 ages 13 and older). The 860-acre park is named for the massive granite basins or “huecos” that provided priceless collected rainwater to Native Americans and travelers for thousands of years in this parched region of the country. These days, the invaluable attraction is the park’s fascinating collection of pictographs created by area tribe members during the past several thousand years. Marvel at the mythological drawings and white- and rust-colored animal figures, each representing the lifeways of the region’s bygone eras. Though the human and animal figures can be somewhat cryptic, the hundreds of masks—some clown-like, others menacing—painted by the ancient Jornada Mogollon culture are captivating and compelling. Park guides offer highly recommended pictograph tours, allowing visitors access to areas with rock art representing three distinct cultures. Tours are conducted primarily by reservation, so call a few days beforehand to let them know you’re coming. Guides are available Wednesday-Sunday at 9am and 11am (May 1-Sept. 30) and 10:30am and 2pm (Oct. 1-Apr. 30).
Other park attractions include an interpretive center housed in a historic ranch house, ruins of a 19th-century stagecoach station, and abandoned ranch buildings. Visitors can also picnic, hike, camp, and rock climb. To reduce the threat of damage to the prehistoric pictographs, park officials limit the number of visitors to Hueco Tanks; therefore, advance reservations are required. For camping or tour reservations, call 915/849-6684. For other day-use reservations, call 512/389-8900.
Visitors to El Paso may not find the legendary saloons they’ve envisioned from the Wild West of yesteryear, but they’ll discover surprisingly top-notch performing arts organizations and memorable border-spanning live music and international annual events.
The cream of the city’s cultural crop is the renowned El Paso Symphony Orchestra (1 Civic Center Plaza, 915/532-3776, www.epso.org). Established in the 1930s, the symphony bills itself as the oldest performing arts organization in town and the longest continuously running symphony orchestra in the state. The organization is respected among its peers for its ability to recruit highly qualified talent and international soloists. The symphony performs 12 classical concerts annually and hosts a variety of special events and educational programs drawing attendees from West Texas, southern New Mexico, and northern Mexico. Equally grand in artistic ambition is the El Paso Opera (310 N. Mesa St., 915/581-2252, www.epopera.org), featuring national and international talent. The respected company stages several productions annually, with past performances including well-known masterpieces such as Mozart’s Così fan Tutte and Puccini’s Tosca.
Another venerable institution on the city’s cultural landscape is Showtime El Paso (shows at the Abraham Chavez Theatre, 1 Civic Center Plaza, 915/544-2022, www.showtimeelpaso.com). In existence since 1934, the group has evolved from exclusively classical concerts to a broader range of similarly sophisticated shows, from Broadway musicals to jazz concerts to dance performances. Newer to the scene is El Paso Pro Musica (915/833-9400, www.elpasopromusica.org), a chamber orchestra and choir group holding a series of concerts October-April at the El Paso Museum of Art (1 Arts Festival Plaza) and the University of Texas at El Paso’s Fox Fine Arts Recital Hall (500 W. University Ave.). Pro Musica features instrumental and vocal ensembles, and hosts a popular annual Chamber Music Festival showcasing acclaimed artists from across the country.
If you’re planning in advance, check to see if there’s a show at the venerable 1930 Plaza Theatre (125 Pioneer Plaza, www.theplazatheatre.org, 915/534-0600). This remarkably restored venue was once advertised as the largest theater of its kind between Dallas and Los Angeles. It was particularly well known for its fancy interior design and pioneering high-tech features (the Mighty Wurlitzer Organ rose from below the stage and provided sound effects for silent movies). Thanks to a spirited fundraising campaign, the theater was spared the wrecking ball in the 1980s and continues to host events, including the symphony, pop acts like Boz Scaggs, country greats like George Jones, and themed movie nights.
El Paso’s bar scene is fairly widespread, but the major centers of activity are downtown and near the UTEP campus. Don’t expect too much from the university bars, a small collection of nondescript venues congregated near an intersection (misleadingly referred to as “the strip”) and packed with indifferent college students. The best place to start is in the heart of downtown at the Dome Bar (101 S. El Paso St., 915/534-3000), on the ground level of the historic Camino Real Hotel. This semi-swanky spot begins the evening as a restaurant but transforms into a low-key bar drawing a comfortable mix of young professionals and singles. Named for the colossal and colorful Tiffany cut-glass dome presiding over the establishment, the Dome Bar is an ideal place to have a predinner cocktail or an evening-ending nightcap. Pony up to the circle-shaped bar for a Scotch or order a top-shelf tequila for sipping at a table while listening to the blues band in the corner.
Just down the street you’ll find the polar opposite scene in an equally compelling establishment. The Tap (408 E. San Antonio Ave., 915/532-1848) is the ultimate dive bar, with faded black and red velvet surroundings, recessed lighting, and so-bad-it’s-good music on the jukebox (Journey, Loverboy, Bee Gees). It’s dark and dank in here with the occasional questionable character (members of the industrial rock band Ministry have reportedly paid a visit), but that’s exactly what a good dive bar should be. The Tap solidifies this reputation with its cheap drinks and mediocre food.
“The strip” is comprised primarily of generic dance clubs where college kids gather to not dance. However, there are a couple places where you can order a quality beer or even just hang out and have a conversation without yelling. Crave (300 Cincinnati Ave., 915/351-3677) prides itself on its microbrews and imports, which are fairly limited by big-city standards but a welcome change of pace for this Bud Light-infused area. Next door is the comfy Crawdaddy’s Bar & Grill (212 Cincinnati Ave., 915/533-9332), where you can order a cheap draft beer with a side of gumbo in a refreshingly laid-back environment.
Geared toward the younger alternative crowd is 301 Live (301 S. Ochoa St., 915/307-5514), a dance club featuring contemporary music. For what it’s worth, don’t be surprised if you get a security pat-down before entering.
A couple of traditional venues are within a few blocks of each other on a strip of highway northwest of town. For country and western dancing, drop by Stampede (5500 Doniphan Dr., 915/833-6397). For blues, rock, and occasional Tejano bands, go to Aceitunas (5200 Doniphan Dr., 915/581-3260).
El Paso’s only prominent gay bar is the Briar Patch (508 N. Stanton St., 915/577-9555). This dance club is known for its great music and open-mindedness.
One of El Paso’s most beloved annual events is Fiesta de las Flores (at El Paso Coliseum, 4100 E. Paisano Dr., 915/755-2000), held on Labor Day weekend each year. This popular event features a beauty pageant, live music, plenty of food, and the World Championship Huacha Tournament (a washer-pitching contest).
In 1934, a 12-foot wooden cross was placed on the summit of Mount Cristo, where Texas, New Mexico, and the state of Chihuahua, Mexico, meet. Later that decade, a shrine and an enormous limestone statue of “Christ the King” were erected. At more than 42 feet high, the monument is considered the largest of its kind in North America. Since the first pilgrimage in 1934, faithful worshippers have gathered each October at the base of the mountain (at the end of McNutt Road) to ascend the 5,650-foot, two-hour-long trek. Some carry wooden crosses, others walk barefoot over the rough path, and a few even climb on their knees. The anniversary Mass each October is observed at noon on the mount’s summit and is performed in both English and Spanish.
The rodeo has been a customary event in El Paso since 1940. Referred to as the oldest sporting event in the city and the 17th-oldest rodeo in the nation, the venerable Southwestern International Livestock Show and Rodeo (915/755-2000) is held each September at Cohen Stadium (9700 Gateway N.) with the Franklin Mountains serving as a picturesque and appropriately rugged backdrop. The event features traditional rodeo activities such as bull riding, barrel racing, and roping.
More than a hundred floats and marching bands take to the streets (Montana St., specifically) for this annual Thanksgiving Day event. Held since the 1930s, the Sun Bowl Parade draws more than 200,000 revelers basking in El Paso’s sunny winter weather.
Portions of El Paso’s downtown feel like marketplaces in Mexico, with discount clothing retailers and cheap trinkets lining the storefronts. They’re interesting to browse, and they’re pretty much the only way to do some authentic thrift shopping since a border run is no longer a safe option. Since this is the Wild West, you’ll also find several reputable stores in El Paso offering quality Western wear and imports.
El Paso is one of the best places in Texas to find authentic Western wear. Boots and hats are required apparel as opposed to fashionable accessories in this sunbaked, windswept region. Besides, genuine cowboys live on surrounding ranches, so they need a place to get their work gear.
It’s not the oldest place in town, but Starr Western Wear (two locations—112 E. Overland Ave., 915/533-0113, and 11751 Gateway Blvd., 915/594-0113, www.starrwesternwear.com) is the real deal. Ranching families and their workers have been outfitting themselves at this small store in the historic downtown shopping district for nearly 50 years. Starr’s also carries ladies’ and kids’ Western wear and its durable line of Starr brand jeans and shirts. Look for traditional jeans (as opposed to fashionable) on the racks along with Wranglers, Levis, and Carhartts.
For boots, there’s no excuse not to drop by one of the Tony Lama Factory Stores (particularly 7156 Gateway E., 915/772-4327, www.tonylamabootshop.com). A legendary boot maker for more than 80 years, Tony Lama is one of the most recognized names on the Western wear scene. Specializing in high-end handcrafted boots, Tony Lamas are made in El Paso and have been worn by famous customers such as Travis Tritt, the Texas Tornadoes, and ZZ Top. The factory outlets feature men’s and ladies’ boots and work boots, along with cowboy hats, belts, and Western-themed gifts. Another established and beloved local institution is Champion Attitude Boots (2100 Wyoming Ave., 915/309-4791, www.caboots.com). This fourth-generation boot-making family primarily operates as an Internet company these days (call for an appointment), but their legacy continues with hundreds of different styles of boots, for cowboys, bikers, and kids to custom-made varieties fashioned from alligator, ostrich, python, stingray, and lizard. Fun fact: Champion’s once outfitted many of the 1980s hair metal bands, including Bon Jovi and Mötley Crüe.
Yet another venerable Texas boot maker has been operating a factory store in El Paso for decades. San Antonio-based Lucchese Boots Outlet (6601 Montana Ave., 915/778-8060, or 40 Walter Jones Blvd., 915/778-3066) features high-quality footwear at significantly marked-down prices. For sheer volume, drop by Cowtown Boots (11401 Gateway Blvd., 915/593-2929), a 40,000-square-foot outlet store with an enormous selection of cowboy boots, leather goods, brand-name clothing, and accessories with affordable price tags.
For warehouse-style imports, be sure to set aside at least an hour to browse the massive El Paso Saddleblanket (6926 Gateway E., 915/544-1000, www.elpasosaddleblanket.com). This one-acre megastore features stacks, rows, and cases of items from Mexico and the Southwest. Colorfully patterned blankets and rugs are the main draw here, but you’ll find just about anything else under the hot sun—furniture, pottery, jewelry, clothing, housewares, and artwork, to name a few.
With more than half a million residents, El Paso is one of the largest cities in the country with no major professional sports teams. However, much like Austin, fans are content to get their quality gamesmanship fix via Division 1-level college athletics (University of Texas at El Paso sporting events) and minor league teams.
The most popular sporting event in town, aside from the UTEP teams, is the El Paso Chihuahuas (1 Ballpark Plaza, www.epchihuahuas.com). El Paso residents love their AAA minor league baseball team, an affiliate of the San Diego Padres that regularly draws 10,000 fans to the new (2014) Southwest University Park, located in the middle of downtown’s urban landscape. The Chihuahuas play rival Pacific Coast League teams May-August.
Most of the sports talk in town centers on the UTEP Miners (www.utepathletics.com), a nickname passed down from the school’s origins as the State School of Mines and Metallurgy. As in the rest of Texas, football reigns supreme here, and fans experience the bonus of attending games at Sun Bowl Stadium, nestled among the sheer cliffs of the Franklin Mountains. The 52,000-seat stadium also hosts the venerable Sun Bowl game in late December each year.
The other major crowd-drawing UTEP athletic events are men’s and women’s basketball games. Both teams are perennial contenders on the brink of achieving national acclaim. The basketball teams played games at Don Haskins Center starting in 1976, but their new state-of-the-art facility, the Foster Stevens Basketball Center, opened in April 2009.
Not surprisingly, Mexican food is the most popular type of cuisine in El Paso; surprisingly, there isn’t an abundance of high-quality locales to choose from. In fact, for a city of its size, El Paso is somewhat lacking in top-notch restaurants, but its commendable midrange Mexican and down-home cookin’ spots are plentiful.
One of the most memorable places you’ll ever have a Mexican meal is S H&H Car Wash (701 E. Yandell Dr., 915/533-1144, Mon.-Fri. 9am-4pm, Sat. 9am-3pm, $7-15). That’s not a misprint—it’s a real car wash. Let the professionals outside make your rig sparkle while their indoor counterparts whip up a spectacular Mexican feast. The decor is interesting if somewhat uninspiring—a 1960s-style coffee shop with minimal furnishings situated in the concrete desert just east of downtown. Regardless, most folks are here for the food, a tantalizing selection of fresh-made El Paso-style specialties such as chile relleno, burritos, red enchiladas (made with stacked or rolled tortillas filled with cheese and smothered in a spicy chile sauce), and carne picada—minced steak with diced jalapeños, onions, and tomatoes. One of the best menu items in town are the West Texas/New Mexico-style chiles rellenos, and H&H does ’em right, with a distinctive flavor bonus. Since the breaded chiles are heated on the same grill as the tasty (and greasy) burgers and sausage, the chiles’ thin outer crust soaks up the goodness and adds an extra-flavorful kick.
the amazing chiles rellenos at H&H Car Wash
For old-school Mexican food, head to downtown mainstay G&R Restaurant (401 E. Nevada Ave., 915/546-9343, Mon.-Sat. 8am-8pm, $7-15), a traditional spot that’s blissfully operating in the past—you won’t find any low-cal options or California influence here. G&R is an ideal place to order stacked red enchiladas, a regional specialty with layered tortillas, meat, and cheese that becomes even more of a local custom when you add a fried egg on top (it tastes way better than it sounds). G&R is also known for its creamy and spicy chile con queso and exquisite chiles rellenos. Another classic Mexican joint just north of downtown is Amigos Restaurant (2000 Montana Ave., 915/533-0155, Tues.-Sun. 7am-8pm, Mon. 7am-3pm, $8-18). The food here is spicy New Mexico style (hot chiles), a welcome jolt for some but an unwanted kick for others. To be fair, not everything is four-alarm level here, but consider yourself warned about the enchiladas or anything else with chiles in the description. The crispy beef tacos, with the regional custom of potatoes mixed with the seasoned meat, are mild, and the chicken tampiquena, though spicy, offers a delightful blend of fresh flavors.
Locals are more likely to frequent the venerable Mexican restaurants outside of downtown, such as L&J Cafe (3622 E. Missouri Ave., 915/566-8418, daily 9am-9pm $7-15). Occasionally referred to as the “place by the graveyard” due to its location adjacent to Concordia Cemetery, the L&J is an El Paso institution renowned for its cold beer and traditional Chihuahuan Desert-style dishes—caldillo (a flavorful beef, potato, and chile stew) and the green and red enchiladas with chicken, cheese, and multifaceted sauces.
If you only try one item at a Mexican restaurant in El Paso, make it the chiles rellenos at Kiki’s (2719 N. Piedras St., 915/565-6713, www.kikismexicanrestaurant.com, daily 10:30am-9pm, $9-16). These tasty delicacies are distinct to El Paso—an Anaheim chile (the long, green, and mild pepper) lightly fried in egg batter and filled with a velvety white cheese. Kiki’s has perfected these supreme items, so do yourself a favor and load up on them while you’re here.
To truly eat like a local, head to the eastern edge of downtown for the authentic taste of S Forti’s Mexican Elder Restaurant (321 Chelsea St., 915/772-0066, Mon.-Thurs. 9am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 9am-11pm, Sun. 9am-8pm, $11-27). In a slightly run-down part of town in a somewhat dated hacienda-style building (like the best undiscovered local gems), Forti’s is all about flavor—especially heat. Bordering on too spicy, some of the dishes (the red enchiladas, in particular) will test your heat index, but most are packed with local-style goodness. The chiles rellenos offer a perfectly smooth blend of velvety cheese and tangy pepper, and the gorditas are meaty and savory. Other menu highlights include the mole chicken enchiladas and pork al pastor tacos. If you’re lucky, your meal may even be accompanied by a small band of musicians in the corner to perfectly complement your borderland experience.
Another popular spot is Avila’s Mexican Food (6232 N. Mesa St., 915/584-3621, Mon.-Thurs. 11am-2pm and 4:30pm-8pm, Fri. 11am-8:30pm, Sat. 9am-8pm, Sun. 9am-3pm, $9-15), known for its semi-spicy chile dishes. To get an authentic sampling of local cuisine, order the tricolored enchilada plate, containing red, green, and sour cream enchiladas (the colors of Mexico’s flag). Savor the flavors of these hearty desert chiles, coupled with the better-than-they-should-be beans and rice.
If you’re simply looking for a quick bite to eat, drop by one of the several locations of Chico’s Tacos (5305 Montana Ave., 915/772-7777, daily 9am-12:30am, $4-8), a local chain with a rabid following. The main draw here is the rolled taco—order two singles (three tacos per order) and gorge on the cheesy goodness. Strangely enough, Chico’s is also known for its hot dogs, served on a hamburger bun with chili beans, pickles, and mustard.
If you’re looking for that rare combo of high-quality food with a ridiculously low price tag (who isn’t?), head straight to Los Colorines (201 E. Main Dr., Ste. 114, 915/544-5565, call for hours—breakfast and lunch only, $5-10). As strange as it sounds, this is an easy yet difficult place to find. The physical landmark—the high-rise Chase bank building downtown—is pretty obvious, but the restaurant inside . . . not so much. You have to enter the building lobby and head past the escalators and around a corner to find the restaurant. It’s definitely worth it. Since it’s in an office building, Los Colorines is all about lunch—most tables are two-tops occupied by one businessperson—and therefore lunch specials (typically about $4-5). The tortilla soup is top-notch, with crunchy strips of fried tortilla accompanying a hearty chicken stock with fresh avocados, shredded chicken, and tasty cheese. Beef items are especially good here—the flautas are highly recommended—as are the guacamole and salsa. Top your meal off with a Mexican Coke and a smile.
El Paso’s finest restaurant, S Cafe Central (109 N. Oregon St., 915/545-2233, www.cafecentral.com, Mon.-Sat. 11am-10pm, $13-41) serves haute cuisine in a remarkable art deco building in the heart of downtown. Known for its impressive wine selection and sophisticated menu, Cafe Central is an ideal place for a fancy night on the town in a contemporary environment. Locals love the cream of green chile soup, the subtle yet savory sea bass, and the hearty grilled Angus tenderloin. Other popular menu items include the grilled pork chop with roasted brandied apples and the seared saku tuna crusted in sesame seeds.
For a thick steak with heaping sides of family activities, make the worthwhile trek to Cattleman’s Steakhouse (30 miles northeast of El Paso in Fabens, 915/544-3200, www.cattlemanssteakhouse.com, Mon.-Fri. 5pm-10pm, Sat.-Sun. 12:30pm-9pm, $12-44). Out here in the Wild West, a 30-minute drive is just down the street, so locals drop by often to celebrate special occasions with the whole gang. Start your gastric juices flowing with the fluffy, buttery rolls, proceed to the ranch-style beans, and delve into the main attraction—the meaty, juicy prime beef. Attempt to choose from tantalizing options such as the T-bone, rib eye, New York strip, and filet mignon. Meanwhile, the kids will enjoy the outdoor petting zoo, snake pit, maze, playground, and livestock.
It’s well worth making the five-minute drive from downtown to experience El Paso’s Bowie Bakery (901 Park St., 915/544-6025, daily 6am-9pm, $3-6). This small spot (note: there are no tables, so plan to take your items to go) is in the city’s segundo barrio, a resurgent neighborhood near downtown filled with historic adobe homes and charming corner stores. The baked goods are the big draw here, particularly the traditional Mexican pastries. Bowie Bakery is a favorite among locals who line up every morning for hot coffee and perfectly prepared empanadas de pina (delectable pineapple turnovers), esponjas, and a cream-filled swan pastry that tastes as sweet as it looks.
The majority of El Paso’s lodging options are chains adjacent to the airport and Fort Bliss just northeast of downtown. Fortunately, most of the choices there and in the urban core are quite affordable (in the $100 range). El Paso’s downtown used to have several historic hotels, but they’ve either closed their doors or declined to the point of not being recommendable.
Budget travelers may want to consider the Gardner Hotel (311 E. Franklin Ave., 915/532-3661, www.gardnerhotel.com, $65 d), reportedly the oldest continually operating hotel in the city. Unfortunately, historic doesn’t always mean quaint, as evidenced by the old furniture and bedding. Regardless, it’s inexpensive and in a prime location. Amenities include Internet access and a fancy (in a dated way) lobby with memorabilia dating to the 1930s. There’s also a hostel available for groups and backpackers on a budget. For just a few dollars more per night, you’ll find newer and cleaner accommodations a few miles away at the Holiday Inn Express (409 E. Missouri Ave., 915/544-3333, www.ichotelsgroup.com, $83 d), featuring a free continental breakfast, free wireless Internet access, a small fitness center, and an outdoor pool.
Unless you need to be right next to the airport, you should definitely consider staying at the magnificent Camino Real Hotel (101 S. El Paso St., 915/534-3000, www.caminoreal.com, $95 d). In the heart of downtown within blocks of Mexican-style shopping and eateries, this 1912 towering structure is a true historic gem (meaning it can also occasionally be a bit rough around the edges). The Camino Real features upscale amenities—notice the fancy chandeliers, marble detailing, and grand staircase in the lobby—without charging luxury prices. The large, clean rooms include free Internet access and offer top-notch views of the Franklin Mountains and the not-as-picturesque border town of Ciudad Juarez. Be sure to enjoy a cocktail at the hotel’s famous Dome Bar, featuring a beautiful 25-foot-wide Tiffany cut-glass dome. Note: Plans were announced in 2017 for a complete restoration of the property, so be aware of potential construction (along with discounted rates and an eventual impressive overhaul). Just a few miles away on the edge of the University of Texas at El Paso campus is the commendable Hilton Garden Inn El Paso (111 W. University Ave., 915/351-2121, www.hiltongardeninn.com, $99 d). The Hilton offers free wireless Internet access and refrigerators and microwaves in the rooms, as well as a fitness center and an outdoor pool.
the Camino Real Hotel in downtown El Paso
The best bang for your buck in the airport vicinity is Hyatt Place (6140 Gateway Blvd. E., 915/771-0022, www.hyatt.com, $94 d), offering a slew of amenities, including rooms with 42-inch high-definition TVs, oversize sofa sleepers in a separate area, and free Wi-Fi Internet access along with a free continental breakfast and a fitness center. A bonus for cyclists (or those who just support cycling): Hyatt Place is a proud member of the Texas Mountain Trail Cycle Friendly Accommodations Program. Older yet still reliable is the nearby Quality Inn & Suites (6099 Montana Ave., 915/772-3300, www.qualityinn.com, $64 d), featuring a free full hot breakfast, an outdoor pool, free Internet access, and refrigerators and microwaves in each room.
Another worthy option is Radisson Hotel Suites (1770 Airway Blvd., 915/772-3333, www.radisson.com, $109 d), offering rooms with Internet access, refrigerators, and microwaves, as well as indoor and outdoor swimming pools, an exercise facility, and a nightly reception with complimentary cocktails. Not quite as fun yet similarly priced is the Marriott (1600 Airway Blvd., 915/779-3300, www.marriott.com, $89 d), with an indoor/outdoor pool, sauna, whirlpool, and exercise facility, and Internet for a daily fee.
Popular with the business crowd and longer-range visitors is Residence Inn (6355 Gateway Blvd. W., 915/771-0504, www.marriott.com, $149 d), offering a free hot breakfast buffet daily, an evening social hour Monday-Thursday, a mini “market” with 24-hour access to snacks and drinks, large rooms with separate living areas, fully equipped kitchens with full-size appliances, and free wireless Internet access. A bonus: Leave your grocery list at the front desk in the morning and come back to a fully stocked kitchen at night.
One of the nicer RV parks in West Texas is located 10 miles outside of town just over the New Mexico border. El Paso West RV Park (1415 Anthony Dr., Anthony, New Mexico, 575/882-7172, $20) offers free wireless Internet access, laundry facilities, and clean grounds with trees (a rarity in the desert). Another reputable option is Mission RV Park (1420 R.V. Dr. via exit 34 on I-10, 915/859-1133, www.missionrvparklp.com, $20) featuring free Wi-Fi service, an enclosed heated pool, and on-site laundry facilities.
To gather maps, brochures, directions, and other travel-related assistance, visit the El Paso Convention Center and Visitors Bureau (1 Civic Center Plaza, 915/534-0600, www.elpasocvb.com, Mon.-Fri. 8am-5pm, Sat.-Sun. 10am-3pm). Five miles west of town on I-10 is a handy Tourist Information Center (8799 S. Desert Blvd., 915/886-3468, daily 8am-5pm) operated by the Texas Department of Transportation. It’s not quite as heavy on the El Paso info, but the selection of Texas maps and publications is extensive.
The quickest way to get to El Paso is via the El Paso International Airport (6701 Convair Rd., 915/772-4271, www.elpasointernationalairport.com), about five miles east of downtown. The airport services international flights of most major airlines, including American, Continental, Delta, Southwest, and United.
The airport offers taxi and car rental services (cab fare to downtown runs as little as $20), and El Paso’s public transportation service, Sun Metro (915/533-1220, www.elpasotexas.gov), provides bus routes from the airport to downtown.
Once in town, Sun Metro is a cheap way to get around ($4 for a day pass), with dozens of bus lines running to all parts of the city.
Beckoning high in the distance to a surprisingly low number of travelers, the Guadalupe Mountains are an underappreciated natural wonder straddling the Texas-New Mexico border. Located 110 miles east of El Paso and 56 miles south of Carlsbad, New Mexico, Guadalupe Mountains National Park contains more than 86,000 acres with elevations ranging 3,650-8,749 feet—the summit of Guadalupe Peak, the highest point in Texas. Travelers who make the effort to visit this remarkably rugged and remote park are rewarded with deep canyons, the world’s finest example of a fossilized reef, a rare mixture of plant and animal life, and West Texas’s only legally designated wilderness.
Guadalupe Mountains National Park
Historically, this was the land of the Mescalero Apaches before western-bound settlers arrived in the mid-1800s. Though a proposed transcontinental railroad line through Guadalupe Pass never transpired, the Butterfield Overland Mail route traversed the area—look for the stainless-steel monument documenting the route’s significance near the summit of Guadalupe Peak. By the late 1800s, ranchers and the military had established a presence in the mountains, driving away the Mescalero Apaches for good.
In the early 1920s, geologist Wallace Pratt with the then-tiny Humble Oil and Refining Company (now enormous Exxon) became captivated with the area while scouting for oil in the nearby Permian Basin. In subsequent decades, he bought a significant amount of property in the McKittrick Canyon and eventually donated nearly 6,000 acres that became the nucleus for Guadalupe Mountains National Park. The federal government purchased an additional 80,000 acres of adjacent property, and by 1972, the park was dedicated and formally opened to the public.
The park remains a compelling destination for hikers, backpackers, and campers who appreciate its solitude and challenging terrain. From jagged peaks to smooth sand dunes, deep canyons to sparkling springs, Guadalupe Mountains National Park is a distinctive destination offering inspiration in its remote and rugged beauty.
Rising upward of 8,000 feet above the Chihuahuan Desert, the Guadalupe Mountains occupy a traditionally arid landscape. Summertime temperatures regularly reach the mid-90s, while winter lows can dip into the teens.
Several hundred million years ago, this area was a vast sea, and the impressive rock formations currently on display—particularly El Capitan peak—are a result of a large leftover reef formed by sponges, algae, and the skeletal material of numerous aquatic organisms. In fact, the park’s Capitan Reef, as it’s known in the geological world, is recognized as one of the premier fossil reefs of the world. Incidentally, the millions of years of heat and pressure associated with the decomposition of this organic matter, most notably in the adjacent Permian Basin, transformed it to oil and gas.
Otherwise, the park’s terrain is fascinatingly varied, shifting from dry creekbeds to tree-lined ridgetops to dramatic canyons and rippling springs. The resulting plant and animal life associated with each area is distinct to this region of the state, offering visitors the intriguing experience of viewing various exotic species.
The desert environment is a land of extremes, so visitors should plan accordingly—bring sunscreen and water in the summer and hats and gloves in the winter. Rain is fairly uncommon, but random showers can occur at any time, so sleeping under a tent or tarp is advisable. August and September are the rainiest times of the year (averaging about four inches monthly), and the mild temperatures of October and April draw the largest crowds. October is especially busy since Texans relish the rare opportunity to see vibrant fall colors on display.
Because of the uncommon intersection of desert, canyons, and highlands, the park is home to a variety of ecosystems serving as habitat for 60 species of mammals, 289 types of birds, and 55 species of reptiles as well as 1,000-plus varieties of plants.
Many of the park’s animals are nocturnal, so you probably won’t witness an abundance of scurrying critters during daytime hikes. At night, however, the desert comes to life when cooler temperatures prompt foxes, bobcats, badgers, bats, and even some howling coyotes to emerge from their dwellings in search of food. Early-morning and late-evening creatures include mule deer, javelina, and black-tailed jackrabbits.
Reptiles thrive in the Guadalupe Mountains’ harsh daytime conditions, so be on the lookout for lizards (varieties include collared, prairie, and crevice spiny) and snakes (western diamondback rattlesnake, bullsnake, and coachwhip). Snakes tend to congregate in rocky areas like dry streambeds, so keep an eye and ear out for their presence. The park’s rocky canyons are home to ring-tailed cats (a raccoon relative), rock squirrels, and a variety of reptiles including rock and black-tailed rattlesnakes and tree lizards. Also, don’t be surprised if you come across one of the few dozen Rocky Mountain elk descended from a herd brought to the area in the 1920s.
Plant-wise, the desert/mountain climate provides a diverse environment for a wide range of flora, from desert-floor cactus species (prickly pear, yucca, and sotol) to pine forests (ponderosa, Douglas fir) that thrive in the cooler elevations. The significant geographical variations in this rugged landscape result in various trees, grasses, and scrub brushes spanning thousands of acres with more than 6,000 feet of elevation difference.
You’ll find some deciduous trees near water sources in the park’s higher elevations that mimic the environment in northern climes, but much of the landscape is hardscrabble and arid. These areas produce hearty plants that can withstand severe temperature extremes, powerful winds, and a minimal water supply. Cacti have thick stems that store moisture and spines that help reflect the sun’s radiant heat. The park’s annual wildflowers grow during the rainy summer season—August and September—with a compacted life cycle to maximize the region’s minimal moisture.
Two of the park’s most popular campgrounds, Pine Springs and Dog Canyon, are accessible by car, but the remaining nine wilderness sites are only reachable by foot. Those interested in roughing it to these remote areas are required to obtain a free backcountry use permit at the Pine Springs Visitor Center or Dog Canyon Campground, where detailed maps are also available. Due to the isolated nature of these sites, it’s essential to bring at least a gallon of water per person per day, ample food (open fires are prohibited so a camp stove may also be necessary), and emergency gear such as a first-aid kit, compass, and extra batteries.
For those who enjoy a little potable water with their wilderness camping experience (and who doesn’t?), spend the night at either the Pine Springs or Dog Canyon Campgrounds. Upon arrival, select a tent or RV site (no hookups or dump stations are available) and pay at the self-registration board near the restrooms. The fee is $8 per night per site.
Near the park’s headquarters and visitors center, Pine Springs is the largest of the two main campgrounds, featuring 20 tent and 19 RV sites in a simple desert camping area at the base of the mountain. Small trees shade most of the graveled tent sites, but the RV area is basically a big ol’ paved parking lot. The campground features safe drinking water, accessible flush-toilet restrooms (no shower facilities), a utility sink, pay telephones, and a drink machine.
Sitting more than 6,200 feet above the desert, Dog Canyon Campground is in a secluded, tree-filled canyon on the north side of the park. Its higher elevation and sheltered location beneath steep cliff walls result in cooler temperatures than Pine Springs. However, the canyon also protects the area from strong winds that blast through this part of the park in winter and spring. Dog Canyon Campground has nine tent sites and four RV sites along with restrooms containing sinks and flush toilets but no showers. Cooking grills are available for charcoal fires since the area isn’t quite as dry and windy as other parts of the park.
If you’re not up for an overnight stay, the best way to appreciate Guadalupe Mountains National Park is by putting boot to rocky terrain on one of the breathtaking hiking trails. More than a dozen options are available (check with the park’s visitors center about length and difficulty), but visitors can experience several of the most popular treks—or at least the most scenic portions—in a day. In addition, smaller self-guided nature trails are available at the park’s headquarters, McKittrick Canyon, and at Dog Canyon.
To fully experience the majesty of McKittrick Canyon, considered by some to be one of Texas’s most captivating natural wonders, allow most of the day to reach the high ridges. Start at the McKittrick Canyon Visitor Center, where you’ll descend two miles into the canyon before reaching the first significant milestone—Pratt Cabin, a 1929 structure constructed for geologist and land donator Wallace Pratt. Continue another mile to the gorgeous Grotto Picnic Area, one of the most scenic areas in the entire canyon. If you have the extra time and stamina, continue four more miles to McKittrick Ridge for magnificent views of the colorful canyon walls and rugged surrounding outcroppings.
Accessible from Pine Springs Campground, Guadalupe Peak Trail is highly recommended for the stunning views atop the highest point in Texas. Fortunately, the trail is in good shape, and despite the seemingly daunting task of ascending to an elevation of more than 8,000 feet, the trek isn’t overly strenuous. At four miles long (one-way), the trail is more than just a quick day hike. A campsite located about a mile before the summit is a good spot to take a break and eat a picnic lunch among the breezy pines and sun-drenched mountain ridges.
Beginning at Pine Springs Campground, this trail offers a compelling experience of desert savanna and a tremendous view of the dramatic El Capitan peak. The trail doesn’t lead to the summit—the distinctive formation is sheer vertical rock wall—but it gradually climbs along its base. Hikers can choose to descend farther into the canyon after skirting the peak, but the hike is rigorous. Consider heading back to Pine Springs after experiencing the grandeur of El Capitan.
To get started on your journey, drop by the park’s headquarters/visitors center at Pine Springs, accessible via U.S. Highway 62/180 (look for the signs on the highway—there isn’t much else out here). Pick up a stack of maps and brochures, find out the current weather forecast, view an orientation slide show and interpretive exhibits, browse the bookstore, and talk to the knowledgeable and friendly park staff about your plans. Adjacent to the center is the Pinery Trail, a paved pathway with scenic views and educational panels providing information about the native plants. The short trail leads to the Butterfield Overland Mail stage station’s historic ruins.
The visitors center is open daily 8am-4:30pm (Mountain Standard Time) in the winter and 8am-6pm in warmer months—generally April-October. Chat with the helpful park ranger, browse the impressive book selection, purchase a T-shirt, and check out the adequate exhibits dedicated to the park’s history and natural assets. The entrance fee is $5 per person ages 16 and older, and the park pass you’ll receive is valid for seven days. For more information, call the visitors center at 915/828-3251 or visit www.nps.gov/gumo.
For those heading straight to Guadalupe Mountains National Park, the closest airport is nearly 60 miles north in Carlsbad, New Mexico. Though service is provided only by Mesa Airlines from Albuquerque, it’s an hour closer than El Paso. For Carlsbad flight information, contact Cavern City Air Terminal (505/887-1500, www.airnav.com).
For those driving to the park, the El Paso airport is approximately 110 miles west of the Guadalupe Mountains on U.S. Highway 62/180. For those arriving from the east, take either I-20 or I-10 to Van Horn, then head north for about an hour on Highway 54, one of the most scenic drives in the entire state.
It may not be fair to lump these two distinctly different cities together, but they have more in common than they’re willing to admit. Both cities can lay claim to the three p’s: petroleum, pigskin, and presidents. Still, there’s a fierce Midland vs. Odessa rivalry befitting of fiery West Texans, and like most neighboring communities in the rural United States, the competition between the two is hashed out on the football field. Unlike typical towns, however, the intensity of this gridiron action has been documented in the essential Friday Night Lights body of work (book, movie, and TV show).
The entire region is known as the Permian Basin, a reference to the vast Permian Sea that once covered much of the area nearly 300 million years ago. Native American tribes populated the region for much of the past 12,000 years before pioneer settlers arrived in the mid-1800s. The dry, dusty landscape appealed to only the hardiest of frontier settlers, who braved the conditions to (barely) make a living in ranching. In the late 1920s, oil was discovered deep beneath the sedimentary layers of the Permian Basin, forever altering the fate of Midland (population 161,077) and Odessa (118,968).
Thanks to the foresight of an entrepreneur named T. S. Hogan, who commissioned the construction of a stately 12-story office building in anticipation of the oil boom, Midland became the business center of the region. Though momentum slowed briefly during and after the Great Depression, exploration and drilling began again in haste in the 1950s, setting the big boom in motion. At one point, there were more than 600 oil companies, and the numerous multistoried corporate offices popping up downtown earned Midland the nickname “the tall city of the plains.”
It was during this time that the two communities began taking on distinct identities. Midland became the white-collar town, with banks and businesses picking up where Hogan had left off by eagerly processing and capitalizing on the abundance of cash that flowed in conjunction with the precious black gold. Conversely, Odessa became the blue-collar city, where many of the roughnecks (oil workers) resided.
These able-bodied folks who handled the massive oil rigs and drilling equipment became parents to equally brawny teenage sons, who excelled on the gridiron. These hulkish kids—some topping out at six feet five, 300-plus pounds—became local heroes, playing college-caliber ball for crowds of 20,000 strong. The phenomenon was eloquently captured in H. G. “Buzz” Bissinger’s captivating book Friday Night Lights, which eventually became an equally compelling movie and television show.
Another source of local pride is the Bush family presidential legacy. Though neither of the Georges were born in the Permian Basin, they spent formative years here, and both cities are eager to lay claim to the title of the Bushes’ hometown. The family spent several years shuffling between Odessa and California before finally settling in Midland (and ultimately Houston). Their lives and times in West Texas are on display at Odessa’s presidential museum and both cities’ George W. Bush childhood homes.
You’ll learn everything you ever needed (or wanted) to know about the industry that forever changed the lives of millions at the Petroleum Museum (1500 I-20 W., Midland, 432/683-4403, www.petroleummuseum.org, Mon.-Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. 2pm-5pm, $12 adults, $8 seniors and students). This enormous, lofty-ceilinged structure contains information and exhibits related to every possible aspect of the oil industry, from prehistoric geological conditions and historic drilling equipment to current trends in oil recovery. Though the immense number of artifacts and technical information about the minutiae of the industry can be overwhelming at times, there are gems that offer fascinating insight. For example, there’s a rotating drill bit in one exhibit room that dug a 5.6-mile-deep (!) well over the course of three years, requiring 166 replacements, including 21 diamond-infused bits. Other museum attractions include several galleries devoted to Western art and children’s activities, and an area called “the oil patch” that features thousands of objects, from antique drilling equipment to modern machinery, in a 40-acre exhibit area behind the museum.
High school football is a religion in Texas, and in Odessa, the faithful worship at the shrine of Ratliff Stadium. This megasize monolith, with an astoundingly enormous capacity of 19,500, inspired the title of H. G. “Buzz” Bissinger’s 1991 book Friday Night Lights, a fascinating story about the Permian High School (Odessa) football team’s unforgettable 1988 season.
Odessa’s Permian High School, the inspiration for Friday Night Lights
The book became a cultural phenomenon, spawning a successful movie and inspirational TV show chronicling the life of a football-crazed town dealing with typical issues in the rural United States: family relations, religion, and especially racism. Bissinger’s account of Odessa was so detailed—his journalism background inspired him to intensively research and report his findings—it upset many locals, who objected to a seemingly unflattering portrayal of their community. Upon the release of his book, Bissinger became persona non grata in Odessa, despite the national attention Permian High School received for its football program.
The Odessa/Midland area holds a unique distinction when it comes to producing gridiron giants. The kids here are exceptionally big, many spawning from brawny oil riggers and burly roughnecks who operate the heavy equipment in the nearby oil fields. It’s common in these parts to see 300-pound teenagers towering over standard-size six-foot-tall mortal men. Step into a local burger joint at lunchtime on Friday, and you’ll find tables full of hulking kids in letterman jackets devouring plates of gigantic burgers in just a few bites.
They’re just as ravenous when they take the field. The Permian Panthers and cross-town archrivals the Midland Lee Rebels are two of Texas’s most successful high school football programs. Their supersize students often play college-caliber ball, and their achievements are the stuff of legend among Texas’s gridiron geeks. Permian claims two national championships (1972 and 1989) and six state championships (1965, 1972, 1980, 1984, 1989, and 1991), while Midland Lee boasts three consecutive state championships (1998-2000). The schools’ most famous football alumni are former NFL stars Roy Williams (Permian) and Cedric Benson (Midland).
In the late 1960s, Permian fans began using the term “mojo” to describe the magic and emotion associated with their beloved Panthers’ prowess, and the term quickly became an enthusiastic rallying cry representing the intensity of the ferocious players and fans. A testament to the power of the word permanently graces the high school’s front facade, which boasts four enormous black letters requiring no explanation around here: MOJO.
The Presidential Museum and Leadership Library (4919 E. University Ave., Odessa, 432/363-7737, www.presidentialarchives.org, Mon.-Fri. 8am-5pm, free) was conceived well before both George Bushes ascended to the presidential throne. Originating after the 1963 assassination of John F. Kennedy, the museum was located in Odessa’s main library before moving to fancy new digs in the early 2000s. Visitors first encounter a large rotunda area featuring a life-size replica of the presidential seal rug that lies in the real Oval Office, and then proceed through an intriguing exhibit area containing profound quotes from past commanders in chief, the presidents of the Republic of Texas (natch), and separate display cases devoted to each of the U.S. presidents in chronological order. The individual Plexiglas boxes contain fascinating artifacts and memorabilia, including coins, printed mementos, and campaign buttons representing the past 230 years of American history. Perhaps most popular, however, is the plain little house behind the museum. This modest postwar structure was home to the Bush family (George H. W., Barbara, and George W.) in the late 1940s and was moved from its original location to the museum grounds in 2006. The museum proudly claims to have the only home to ever be occupied by two presidents and a first lady, which was painstakingly restored and decked out to its authentic 1948 appearance.
Regardless of political leanings, it’s quite compelling to learn personal details about a leader of the free world. Get a glimpse of this type of domesticity at the George W. Bush Childhood Home (1412 W. Ohio St., Midland, 432/685-1112, www.bushchildhoodhome.org, Tues.-Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. 2pm-5pm, $5 adults, $3 seniors, $2 students). Built in 1939, the plain yet comfy home was the Bush family residence 1951-1955, when George W. was roughly 5-9 years old. Like the Odessa house, it’s been redecorated based on photos and personal recollections to authentically represent the family’s surroundings at the time. The highlight is little George’s room, filled with 1950s memorabilia depicting the activities he was involved with at the time, namely Little League, Cub Scouts, and the Roy Rogers fan club. Other rooms replicate the homey feel of the kitchen and den, and the remaining spaces contain computer screens with ’50s TV shows and commercials, as well as photos and informative panels putting the family’s life and Midland history in context.
George W. Bush Childhood Home in Odessa
The Odessa Meteor Crater (five miles west of Odessa off I-20, exit 108, 432/381-0946, self-guided tours daily 9am-6pm) is an out-of-this-world experience. Billed as the second-largest crater in the United States (only the Arizona Crater is bigger), it was formed nearly 50,000 years ago when a shower of nickel-iron meteorites crashed into Earth, resulting in a 100-foot-deep, 550-foot-wide depression. Over time, accumulated sediments filled the crater to within six feet of the level of the surrounding plain, but visitors can still easily discern the recessed area on the flat West Texas prairie. In the 1940s, scientists dug a 165-foot-deep shaft in the center to try to find the big meteorite they assumed was still buried. They didn’t find anything, supporting the subsequent theory that the 350-ton meteor was traveling so quickly, it exploded and vaporized upon contact with the ground. An interpretive center provides exhibits and a video related to the exploration of the Odessa Meteor Crater and related scientific facts.
Though it’s set up for serious researchers of Western heritage, the Haley Library and History Center (1805 W. Indiana Ave., Midland, 432/682-5785, www.haleylibrary.com, Mon.-Fri. 9am-5pm, free) is worth dropping by for a quick visit. Named for overachieving rancher and writer J. Evetts Haley, who interviewed more than 700 Southwestern pioneers, the facility contains a modest yet impressive collection of Western artifacts and a tremendous archive of books and documents dedicated primarily to ranching culture. Visitors interested in Texana will delight in seeing the historic bell that once hung at the Alamo as well as the numerous saddles from regional pioneer families and the remarkable collection of silver spurs. The building also hosts occasional exhibits featuring the work of local and regional artists.
Housed in a sprawling 1937 mansion is the misleadingly grand-sounding Museum of the Southwest (1705 W. Missouri Ave., Midland, 432/683-2882, www.museumsw.org, Tues.-Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. 2pm-5pm, $5 adults, $3 students). The magnificent home is the main attraction here, offering a glimpse of a rich oil baron’s homestead during Midland’s boom years. Constructed on 12 contiguous lots, the 5,300-square-foot palace exudes opulence, with nearly a dozen fireplaces and ornamental architectural details. The art exhibits scattered throughout the rooms and added galleries aren’t quite as impressive, featuring a smattering of Western paintings and pottery. The expansive complex also includes a decent yet small children’s museum and one of the only planetariums open to the public in West Texas.
For a blue-collar town, Odessa has a rather impressive cultural facility in the Ellen Noel Art Museum (4909 E. University, Odessa, 915/550-9696, www.noelartmuseum.org, Tues.-Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. 2pm-5pm, free). The museum’s three main galleries contain permanent and traveling exhibits typically showcasing modern art, historic paintings, and installation work. Even more intriguing is the outdoor portion of the museum, a “sculpture and sensory garden” designed with visually impaired children in mind. Everything in the garden is dedicated to senses other than sight—particularly touch, sound, and smell. A flowing fountain provides soothing sounds and cool tactile sensation, while various herbs offer fragrant and soft or scratchy leaves.
For a true otherworldly experience, visit Monahans Sandhills State Park (exit 68 on I-20 W., Monahans, 432/943-2092, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, daily 8am-10pm, $4 ages 13 and older). Rising out of the West Texas desert scrub are miles of smooth, rotund, blindingly white sand dunes. These seemingly out-of-nowhere formations are a result of desert winds exposing ancient layers of sediment left behind by Pecos River erosion. Nowadays, families flock to the park with their saucer sleds to “sandsurf,” which is exactly what it sounds like—cruising down a steep hill with the help of a plastic contraption. It’s kind of like snow sledding, just without the snow or subfreezing temperatures. Unfortunately, the idea of it is more fun than the reality—ice is much slicker by nature than sand. Traversing the dunes is an experience unto itself (wear sandals or shoes with some stable support), and it’s especially fascinating to keep tabs on the myriad critter tracks, including snakes, birds, and lizards. Camping and picnic areas are available, and the park store offers sleds for sale or rent.
Monahans Sandhills State Park
Midland’s white-collar sensibilities are on full display at the S Wall Street Bar and Grill (115 E. Wall St., 432/684-8686, daily 11am-2:30pm and 5:30pm-10pm, $11-31). Located on the city’s big-money street with all the tall buildings, this well-heeled and high-quality restaurant caters to the business crowd with copies of the Wall Street Journal in the bar area and a stock ticker running over the entryway. The food reflects the tony surroundings, with hearty flavorful steaks and succulent seafood dishes the menu items of choice. Also notable is Café at the Gardens (3300 Fairgrounds Rd., 432/687-1478, www.alldredgegardens.com, lunch Mon.-Sat. 11am-2pm, dinner Thurs 5pm-10pm, $9-22), outside of town at Alldredge Gardens, one of Midland’s premier greenhouse and nursery operations. Locals have long been taking root at the café for the tasty wraps and gourmet pizzas at lunch and the seafood entrées (snapper étouffée, crab cakes) for dinner.
One of the top choices for Mexican food in Midland is La Bodega (2700 N. Big Spring St., 432/684-5594, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-2am, $7-15). Known for its remarkable interior Mexican food, the restaurant’s specialty is its chiles rellenos, prepared with seasoned beef stuffed in a not-too-spicy chile, which is peppered with raisins and pine nuts. An added bonus: The margaritas here are some of the best in town. Note: Smoking is still allowed in the restaurant, so you may get a mouthful of smoke with your chips and salsa.
Another popular Mexican restaurante is the deceptively named Caramba’s Spanish Inn (3116 W. Front St., 432/520-9724, Mon.-Fri. 11am-2pm and 5pm-9pm, Sat. 11am-9pm, $8-15). Despite the name, there are no Iberian specialties here, although many of the waitstaff speak the Spanish language. Caramba’s specialties include traditional Mexican fare such as enchiladas (try the green chile chicken), tacos, burritos, and nachos.
Odessa doesn’t have a reputation as a cuisine capital, but several restaurants in town do a respectable job with the basics, which around here means meat. One of the best representations of Odessa eats is the Barn Door Steakhouse (2140 Andrews Hwy., 432/580-7019, www.odessabarndoor.com, Mon.-Fri. 11am-9:30pm, Sat. 4pm-10:30pm, $10-22). There’s something endearing about the hokey Western decor and theme, probably because it’s the way things have been here for decades, offering the same kind of familiarity as the comfort food on the menu. Meals begin with a big block of cheese and a fresh loaf of bread, and there’s more homey goodness to be found among the entrées—charbroiled steaks are the main draw here, but the chicken dishes and fried shrimp are popular, too.
Barbecue is a safe bet in a town like Odessa, and one of the best places to sample the local flavor is Jack Jordan’s Bar-B-Q (1501 John Ben Shepperd Pkwy., 432/362-7890, Mon.-Sat. 7am-9pm, $8-15). West Texans are a fiery bunch, so it shouldn’t come as a surprise that they like their barbecue spicy. The sauce here has a nice bite, orders come with jalapeños on the side, and a big bottle of Tabasco sauce is on each table. Despite the fact it’s housed in an uninspiring locale, people come here for the food, and in West Texas, that means beef. When they say ribs around here, they don’t mean pork.
For a Texas town of nearly 100,000, there are surprisingly few options for quality Mexican food in Odessa. One of the consistently reliable choices is La Bodega (1024 E. 7th St., 432/333-4469, daily 11am-10pm, $7-14). Operated by the same crew as the Midland outfit, La Bodega offers the same quality Mexican cuisine, including its famous chiles rellenos. Another noteworthy spot is Dos Amigos Bar & Grill (4700 Golder Ave., www.dosamigos.com, Mon.-Sat. 11am-2am, $8-14). Housed in an old horse stable, Dos Amigos has become better known as a live music and bull-riding venue lately than as a restaurant, but the food remains decent, and it tastes even better when a band is accompanying the meal from the large stage across the large courtyard. You can’t go wrong with the chicken enchiladas or anything else smothered in the New Mexico-style green chile sauce. Incidentally, the queso here is outstanding.
Travelers shouldn’t have to spend a lot of money on a hotel room in the middle of nowhere, but many Midland accommodations don’t adhere to this philosophy. Fortunately, there are several worthy options in the semi-affordable range, including the Plaza Inn (4108 N. Big Spring St., 432/686-8733, www.plazainnmidland.com, $83 d). Though it caters largely to a business crowd, it’s still a decent home away from home for a few nights. The Plaza offers Internet access and a free continental breakfast. Another notable spot near downtown is La Quinta Inn (4130 W. Wall St., 432/697-9900, www.lq.com, $89 d), featuring free Internet access and breakfast, as well as an outdoor pool.
For those looking to experience the upper echelon of Midland society, make reservations at the S Doubletree by Hilton Midland Plaza (117 W. Wall St., 432/683-6131, www.hilton.com, $114 d). Located in the heart of the downtown business district, the 250-room Hilton offers panoramic views of the wide-open plains and the city skyline. The Hilton’s amenities include free Internet access, a large fitness center and pool, and a swanky rooftop bar overlooking the city’s Centennial Plaza.
Odessa has more affordable rates than Midland, but most of the sub-$50 options are older hotels and motels badly in need of an upgrade. For a bit more money, travelers can lodge in comfort with all the necessary amenities. The best value in town (and virtually a required stay if you’re traveling with children) is the S MCM Grande Hotel and Fun Dome (6201 E. I-20 Business, 432/362-2311, www.mcmgrande.com, $69 d). The Grande, also referred to as the “fundome,” caters to families with its indoor atrium area containing a playscape, nine-hole mini-golf course, indoor/outdoor pool, and game tables. The rooms feature genuinely comfortable beds, and the free specials are equally impressive: hot breakfast, free Internet access, and complimentary drinks at happy hour. Another option is La Quinta (5001 E. I-20 Business, 432/333-2820, www.lq.com, $139 d). About 10 miles west of the Midland airport, La Quinta offers free Internet access in all rooms, a complimentary continental breakfast, and an outdoor pool with a large sundeck.
Billing itself as West Texas’s “only four-star hotel” is the MCM Elegante (200 E. University Blvd., 432/368-5885 or 866/368-5885, www.mcmelegante.com, $99 d). The Elegante prides itself on top-notch service not always found at run-of-the-mill establishments in town, with luxuries such as a bellhop, a spa and salon, and an extensive recreation area (jogging track, putting and chipping green, practice fields, horseshoe pits, and a playground), as well as free Internet access and quality bedding.
Midland and Odessa each have a convention and visitors bureau promoting attractions and events in the community. To find out everything you need to know about Midland, including maps, brochures, and advice, contact the Midland Convention & Visitors Bureau (109 N. Main St., 432/683-3381 or 800/624-6435, www.visitmidlandtexas.com). For Odessa, get in touch with the Odessa Convention and Visitors Bureau (700 N. Grant, Ste. 200, 800/780-4678, www.odessacvb.com).
The Midland International Airport (9506 Laforce Blvd., 432/560-2200, www.flymaf.com) is exactly 10 miles between both cities and offers service to several major airlines. Although some hotels offer shuttle service, you’ll be stuck there since public transportation systems are virtually nonexistent. Renting a car from the airport is the best option for getting around, especially since there are several interesting places worth visiting (Monahans Sandhills State Park, in particular) that require 20-plus miles of driving.