Santa Elena Canyon
Big Bend National Park and Vicinity
Big Bend National Park.
Everything about the Big Bend area is vast—the sky, the views, the mountains, the canyons, and especially the sense of wonder. It’s a true getaway to a relatively untouched land, where the natural elements dominate the landscape and the visitors simply marvel at its beauty.
What sets this region apart from the rest of Texas is the presence of mountains. The relatively accessible Davis Mountains in Fort Davis are fairly impressive, featuring giant outcroppings of red rock rising thousands of feet into the West Texas sky, but the state’s magnificent mighty peaks are in Big Bend’s Chisos mountain range. A portion of Big Bend even evokes the Rocky Mountains in Colorado, with sheer vertical drops looming right outside the car window and tight switchbacks providing an element of suspense.
Though Marfa has landed on the radar of the international art community, the rest of the Big Bend area is desolate and unknown to most people outside the region. One look at a map reveals the lack of civilization, with vast areas of empty space dotted only by small towns with strange names like Study Butte, Balmorhea, and Van Horn.
It’s this desolation, however, that makes the Big Bend region so appealing. The solitude and seclusion amid a gorgeous backdrop of rugged beauty are ultimately soul cleansing. You never realize how many utility poles, wires, and billboards surround you in everyday life until they’re removed from your environment. Only then do you begin appreciating the sight of milk-white clouds and fascinating native flora along with the endearing sound of chattering birds.
These elements have been appreciated by the region’s inhabitants for more than 10,000 years. From early archaic native groups to Spanish colonists to Apache and Comanche tribes, people have sought out the area’s natural resources—water from the Rio Grande and mountain streams, wild game, rock shelters, and native plants. By the time European settlers arrived in the late 1800s, the Native American groups were being displaced, and communities evolved around military posts and railroad stations.
Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.
S Santa Elena Canyon: One of Big Bend’s most dramatic natural features, these sheer cliffs—more than 1,500 feet high on each side of the Rio Grande—are absolutely mesmerizing (click here).
S Lost Mine Trail: The ultimate Big Bend hike offers an ideal combination of moderate grades, extraordinary vantage points, and stupendous scenery (click here).
S Big Bend Ranch State Park: The largest state park in Texas boasts more than 300,000 acres of remote Chihuahuan Desert wilderness, appealing to those in search of genuine solitude (click here).
S Terlingua: The liveliest ghost town you’ll ever experience draws tourists from around the globe in search of its quality restaurants, trendy lodging, funky gift shops, and historic cemetery (click here).
S Chinati Foundation: Marfa’s world-renowned art museum and artist compound, housed in a former army camp, features some of the world’s largest permanent installation artwork (click here).
S Marfa Lights: The mysterious lights are bouncing, splitting, and disappearing ethereal orbs with no apparent source—unless you believe the theorists who claim they’re UFOs, Native American spirits, or swamp gas (click here).
S McDonald Observatory: Sitting nearly 7,000 feet high atop the Davis Mountains, the observatory offers spectacular views of the heavens via its massive telescopes and famous stargazing parties (click here).
Of the hundreds of thousands of visitors who make the long trek to the Big Bend region annually, the vast majority are Texans. Though you’ll see an occasional midwestern license plate in Big Bend National Park or hear a German accent in Marfa, the natural beauty of the area continues to be a source of fascination and wonder for Texas residents, who find the region equally as compelling and faraway as foreigners do.
There’s a good chance travelers won’t find themselves in this remote region of the country too often, so maximizing time in this distinct part of the world is important. The popular West Texas triangle of Marfa-Alpine-Fort Davis is a natural place to start. Plan to spend two or three days in these towns, with at least half a day set aside for the incomparable Chinati Foundation in Marfa. Fort Davis is a charming Old West town with a day’s worth of activities, but Alpine, despite its evocative name, only takes a morning or afternoon to appreciate.
Depending on your comfort level (tolerance for extreme topographical and climatic conditions), plan on spending 2-4 days in Big Bend National Park and its surroundings. Some visitors never leave the car, choosing instead to soak up the park’s natural beauty on scenic drives, but hiking or camping is definitely the best way to appreciate this amazing topographical treasure.
For a regional perspective on where to go and how to get there, get in touch with the Texas Mountain Trail Region (432/294-4312, www.texasmountaintrail.com), a subsidiary of the Texas Historical Commission’s heritage tourism initiative. Their staff members and website—send them an email ahead of time for specific trip suggestions—will do a wonderful job lending a hand with navigating the rocky roads in this rugged part of the state.
For specific advice and printed materials related to the individual communities, contact the Marfa Chamber of Commerce (207 N. Highland St., 432/729-4942, www.marfchamber.org), the Fort Davis Chamber of Commerce (4 Memorial Sq., 432/426-3015, www.fortdavis.com), and the Alpine Chamber of Commerce (106 N. 3rd St., 432/837-2326 or 800/561-3735, www.alpinetexas.com).
For those not making the long haul from another part of the state, this region of West Texas is best accessed by plane. Southwest Airlines offers extremely reasonable rates to the area (occasionally less than $100 one-way) from most major cities in Texas. The best option for affordable rates and proximity to sites is Midland International Airport (9506 Laforce Blvd., 432/560-2200, www.flymaf.com), where you can rent a car and be in Big Bend or Marfa within three hours. The other option is El Paso International Airport (6701 Convair Rd., 915/780-4749, www.elpasointernationalairport.com), which offers a few more flights; unfortunately, it takes nearly five hours to get to Big Bend and about four hours to Marfa. There is no public transportation available to Big Bend or in the smaller surrounding communities, but the local chambers of commerce can suggest a private shuttle service to provide transportation within the region.
TOP EXPERIENCE
The namesake bend in the Rio Grande isn’t the only enormous thing around here—this colossal park encompasses more than 800,000 acres of spectacular canyons, mesmerizing Chihuahuan Desert, awe-inspiring Chisos Mountains, and unexpectedly temperate woodlands. It’s the kind of place that words can’t quite describe, and photos can’t even do it justice. Phrases like “majestic peaks” and “rugged beauty” barely begin to illustrate the Big Bend experience, but they at least offer a glimpse into this ultimate “must be seen to be believed” destination.
Big Bend is the kind of place where you feel compelled to pull your car over every half a mile to snap a photo of the endless succession of stunning scenes. Avoid the temptation—you can return to the spots later once you’ve processed their context—and just soak up the natural beauty through your own eyes rather than a viewfinder. Play some appropriate West Texas soundtrack music (Willie Nelson complements the scenery quite nicely) and marvel at the jagged peaks, desert cacti, and sweeping vistas. Just be sure to occasionally keep your eye on the road—the switchbacks on the way to Chisos Mountains Lodge are dramatic hairpin turns with a 10 mph speed limit.
Speaking of speed, other parts of the park are much more open, and it’s easy to find yourself cruising at 70 mph en route to the hot springs or the dramatic Santa Elena Canyon. It’s okay to slow down. One of the best things about being in Big Bend is leaving the city and daily routine behind you. If the old couple in front of you is plugging along at 40 mph, resist the temptation to pass them and pay attention instead to the javelina lurking in the desert brush or the volcanic rock formations. Unfortunately, just when you’ve tempered your commute-minded driving habits, you’ll be headed back home to rush hour traffic.
It may also be tempting to set an itinerary with goals of hikes or destinations to accomplish within a certain amount of time, but try not to get too caught up with an agenda. Some of the best experiences you’ll have will be just sitting on a mountainside or relaxing at your campground. The absence of power lines, utility poles, billboard ads, and litter is cathartic, and the cleansing effect on your mind is equally therapeutic.
Sometimes it’s necessary to get in touch with civilization (keeping up with your favorite blog, sports team, or office gossip doesn’t count), and there are a few places in the park where this is possible. Wi-Fi service is often accessible on the porch of the Chisos Mountains Lodge, and mobile phone service is slightly more reliable—just not in low-lying areas or around mountain peaks.
Aside from missing your email or favorite TV show, the only negative thing associated with Big Bend is its remote location—a blessing and a curse, since it’s inconvenient to get to but wonderfully isolated and peaceful. Once you’ve experienced its many unique charms, you’ll be able to justify the long drive for many future visits to this unrivaled natural masterpiece.
Several lengthy books are dedicated to the dynamic geography and climate of Big Bend, so summarizing the myriad scientific descriptions of this vast property is somewhat challenging. Geologists have referred to the diverse terrain as a paradise and a nightmare due to its complex collection of stratified rock, volcanic formations, and windblown sand dunes.
The park’s topographical features run the gamut from mountains to canyons to the Rio Grande. However, it’s the desert climate that dominates the landscape, with 98 percent of Big Bend classified as part of the Chihuahuan Desert. The key word associated with deserts is contrast, as in 50-degree daily temperature extremes, old and new natural erosion from water and wind, and dry stretches punctuated by violent flash flooding.
Though water and deserts aren’t typically associated with each other, Big Bend is unique in its access to the Rio Grande and seasonal rains. Water affects all aspects of plant and animal life in the park, and the cycle of wet and dry periods makes Big Bend the fascinating natural landscape it’s become, supporting intriguing and unfamiliar species ranging from cacti and agave plants to javelina and lizards.
The most obvious contrast in the park is elevation—the Chisos Mountains rise nearly 8,000 feet tall while the banks of the Rio Grande sit approximately 1,000 feet above sea level. An interesting fact: Air temperature changes by five degrees for every 1,000 feet of elevation, so temperatures in the upper reaches of the Chisos can be more than 20 degrees cooler than they are along the Rio Grande.
On paper, this variation in elevation and temperature makes Big Bend appear to be an ideal year-round park, but in reality, it’s only comfortable about seven months a year (October-April). Summertime is ridiculously hot—this is the Chihuahuan Desert, after all—and despite the increased elevation and low humidity, triple-digit temperatures are still brutal. May and June are considered the hottest months since periodic rainstorms later in the summer help ease the intensity (and pain) of the heat. In fact, the park experiences a “rainy” season—typically less than a foot of moisture in the summer months. Because of the complete lack of water from the previous season, there’s a mini growth spurt in early fall when colorful blossoms and grasses emerge among the dry landscape.
Some hearty souls aren’t deterred by the park’s harsh summer conditions, delighting in brisk morning hikes and nippy overnights in the mountains. Big Bend’s rainy season even brings occasional heavy thunderstorms and flash flooding. Winter is the most volatile season in Big Bend, with generally mild temperatures, though extremes are possible, from 85°F scorchers to periods of light snow.
With its remarkably diverse geography and climate, it’s not surprising Big Bend has a similarly varied collection of plants and animals. Containing more than 650 species of animals (plus 3,600 different kinds of bugs) and 1,000-plus species of plants, the park represents a fascinating laboratory of living things.
While hiking along any of the park’s trails—from the short paved loops to the major mountain excursions—be sure to take a moment to physically stop and look around. Make a slow 360-degree turn and take in every detail—it’s absolutely unbelievable how many little things you’ll notice: bizarre bugs on cactus blossoms, exotic insects on a tree leaf, a round sherbet-orange flower peeking from behind a spiky agave plant. And that’s just looking straight ahead. Look down and you’ll see giant red ants clamoring into a hole. Look up and you’ll find puffy cotton clouds mimicking the shape of the nearby mountain peak. Though it’s tempting to forge ahead on the trail and think about where you’ll place your next step or how much farther you have to go, you’ll truly benefit from a five-minute observation break.
Though Big Bend’s animals can be elusive, particularly in the heat of the day, its plants are omnipresent and completely intriguing in their variety and just plain weirdness. The Chihuahuan Desert dominates the landscape, so the flora is largely of the scrub and cactus variety. Not surprisingly, Big Bend is home to more species of cacti (65) than any other national park. The tremendous diversity in landscape accounts for the enormous range of cacti, including the ubiquitous prickly pear, pitaya, and claret cup. Those visiting the park in spring or late summer will experience the bonus of seeing cacti in bloom, a colorful display of vivid yellow, red, and pink flowers.
Aside from cacti, one of the most eye-catching species in Big Bend is the century plant, an enormous agave with an equally gigantic distinction: It blooms only once in its 20- to 50-year life, but it makes the most of the situation by producing a colossal 15-foot-tall stalk with bright yellow flowers. Other agave in the park include the lechuguilla, unique to the Chihuahuan Desert, and the gracilipes. Incidentally, agave plants are the source of a natural ingredient found in most tequila.
Trees thrive in Big Bend’s higher elevations, particularly oak and juniper. The cooler climate at these heights (upward of 7,000 feet) mimics the weather in northern states, so it’s common to see Douglas fir, quaking aspen, and ponderosa pine, a rare treat for Texans accustomed to the limited varieties of trees associated with arid and subtropical climates.
Animals in Big Bend are a different story. They’re equally as intriguing yet far more difficult to find. Two species in particular—mountain lion and black bear—draw the most attention due to their natural ferocity. Several dozen bears and a handful of mountain lions are reported each month, and some of the park’s most popular trails (Lost Mine and Window) are hot spots for sightings of both creatures. Park officials advise hikers to ward off bears and mountain lions by intimidating them with loud noises, rock throwing, and plenty of arm waving (seriously).
It’s far more fun to catch a glimpse of the javelina, a piglike creature with coarse black hair unique to the deserts of the American Southwest. Also known as the collared peccary, this fascinating fella is active in the cooler times of day, when it can be found munching mainly on prickly pear cactus and agave plants. They’ve also been known to invade campsites and investigate tents for food, so be sure to safely store everything edible in a vehicle or one of the many bear proof metal boxes located throughout the park.
Other interesting creatures roaming, scuttling, or flying throughout Big Bend include bats (representing the largest portion of the park’s mammal species), 31 kinds of snakes, 22 types of lizards, roadrunners, tarantulas, owls, and myriad noisy insects.
There’s no shortage of activities in Big Bend National Park, from extreme raft and canoe trips to low-key scenic drives to moderate day hikes. Without a cell phone or TV tethering you to the routines and clockwork of the real world, you can get away at your own pace and spend an entire day outside. It’s practically the definition of recreation.
Some people may want to start out at full speed—the mountains can be so inspiring, it’s tempting to turn your enthusiasm into energy by hiking or rafting. Others may want to take things slow and get their bearings. For unbelievably dramatic mountain scenery, it’s imperative to make the drive to Chisos Mountains Lodge. Your ears will pop and your jaw will drop as you ascend the road into the mountain range, with the famous formations of Casa Grande and Emory Peak acting as a beacon to the basin. Be sure to keep an eye on the road as you navigate the tight turns amid the stunning surroundings.
the Casa Grande formation in Big Bend National Park
An ideal introduction to the complex range of natural wonders at Big Bend is a jaunt along Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive in the western portion of the park. The vast vistas slowly transform to striking views of volcanic rock formations reminiscent of an otherworldly scene straight out of a Star Trek episode. Be sure to drop by the historic village of Castolon and set aside about an hour for exploring the small museum exhibits in the charming century-old military structures. This is a good place to grab a snack and a cold drink at the old general store—sit on picnic tables out front to soak up the views of the cliffs of Mexico across the river. Incidentally, the convenience store still feels much like general mercantile shops from the olden days. Unfortunately, you can’t buy screwworm medicine or fox pelts here anymore, but you can buy a T-shirt, frozen burrito, or Pepto-Bismol. Nearby, there’s a historic adobe house worth walking down the hill to admire, and be sure to step inside the small structures near the general store to see the interesting heritage exhibits.
A few miles down the road is the must-see Santa Elena Canyon. If you’re driving a high-clearance vehicle, tackle the nearby Old Maverick Road for the rare chance to experience the invigorating sensation of plowing through rugged terrain just like they do in SUV ads.
Not quite as dramatic yet certainly worth experiencing is the 20-mile drive to Rio Grande Village. The terrain slowly descends as you approach the river, and the charms of the Chihuahuan Desert are in full effect in the blooming cacti, gentle mesas, and the occasional javelina. For a little more excitement, take on the narrow mini overhangs along the short road to the hot springs.
A word of advice: If you’re heading out for the evening (perhaps for dinner in Terlingua or Marathon), make an effort to get back to the park before sundown. Driving on park roads at night can be somewhat treacherous—especially when critters are out grazing on the roadside. Deer, javelina, and jackrabbits can jump out in front of your car at any time. Also, if you’re staying in the basin, you’ll have extra motivation to get back in time to catch the amazing view of the sunset through The Window formation near the lodge.
Once you’ve mastered the scenic drives and hiking trails in Big Bend, you may want to experience the park from a different perspective—by boat. Seeing the canyon walls from the source is imminently rewarding, and many options are available depending on your skill level and spirit of adventure, from Class IV rapids (on a I-V scale) to quiet canoe trips. For a comprehensive list of choices, consult Big Bend’s website (www.nps.gov/bibe).
One of the most popular options is Santa Elena Canyon (downstream from Lajitas), a 13-mile adventure featuring easy desert paddling and severe rapid navigating. This stretch of the river is considered the most dramatic, with enormous 1,500-foot-tall cliffs towering overhead and the largest rapid, a Class IV run known as Rock Slide. For an easier day trip, consider the “boomerang” jaunt upstream and back to the canyon.
A portion of the park known as the Rio Grande Wild & Scenic River features several other trips appealing to beginner and intermediate boaters. The 10-mile-long Mariscal Canyon trek provides stunning scenery with 1,400-foot-tall limestone cliffs and some moderately exciting Class II-III rapids. For a longer excursion (2-3 days), consider the 33-mile-long trip through Boquillas Canyon, an ideal choice for beginners, since there aren’t any rapids higher than Class II. Even longer (up to 10 days) is a trek through the lower canyons, where paddlers can experience true solitude in the wilderness since they often won’t encounter another human being for days at a time.
To find out more about shuttles, equipment rental, and guided trips, contact Big Bend River Tours (800/545-4240, www.bigbendrivertours.com), Desert Sports (888/989-6900, www.desertsportstx.com), or Far Flung Outdoor Center (800/839-7238, www.bigbendfarflung.com).
Big Bend offers more than 200 miles of hiking trails ranging from short, easy nature walks to primitive mountain trails for experienced hikers. There’s truly something for everyone here—families can take their time on moderate trails with printed interpretive brochures as a guide, while hard-core backpackers have the option of taking backcountry trails into the desolate wilderness for challenging treks at their own pace.
Talk about dramatic. You can see the massive walls of Santa Elena Canyon from miles away, but the effect of witnessing these sheer cliffs—more than 1,500 feet high on each side of the surprisingly narrow gap forged by the Rio Grande—is utterly mesmerizing up close. And it only gets better as the trail progresses. It’s a 1.6-mile trek, so plan about two hours to fully appreciate the experience. You’ll be drawn to the wide swath of river flowing from the massive canyon walls, but the difficult-to-find trail entrance is off to your right. Look for the crude stone pathway across the shallow creekbed (your feet may get a bit wet), which leads to the trailhead. You’ll encounter a series of tight switchbacks and concrete steps before ascending a rocky trail that eventually descends into the canyon. When you reach the end of the trail, you’ll be surrounded by the stunning vertical cliff walls, which echo with the sounds of birds and kids (even adults) playing in the water. This is one of the few places in the park where swimming is safe and generally tolerated. Note: In late summer/early fall (after the “rainy” season drops up to a foot of moisture on the park), there will be more water in the Rio Grande, which affects access to the Santa Elena Canyon trail. Instead of being able to walk across the stone pathway, you’ll be faced with the not-very-recommended option of wading through several feet of murky water to get to the trail. Never fear—you can still get a sense of wonder just from being at the base of canyon, but you won’t get the full experience of being within sheer cliff walls. There’s always next time . . .
If you’re staying at Chisos Mountains Lodge, this is an ideal trail for a nearby morning hike. The cool temperatures are invigorating, and the scenery is stupendous. Considered one of the ultimate Big Bend hikes, Lost Mine Trail offers an ideal combination of moderate grades, a wide range of vegetation, extraordinary vantage points, and a handy interpretive brochure at the trailhead. If you happen to be at the park in late summer or early fall (following the summertime rains), you’ll get the bonus experience of seeing the Lost Mine Trail’s environs in a mini growth spurt with plenty of subtle colors and emerging flora. Look for red, yellow, orange, and blue blossoms on bushes, trees, cacti, and stems around every bend. Be sure to take a few minutes to stop hiking and do a 360-degree turn, absorbing all the fresh-green growth of new leaves and blooming cactus. If you look (and listen) closely, you’ll identify unfamiliar insects buzzing over new flowers, completely unaware of your presence.
The trail’s 4.8-mile round-trip (roughly four hours) will get you back in time for a much-needed hearty lunch at the lodge’s restaurant just a mile down the road. Those looking for a shorter venture are in luck: The most incredible view along the trail (and perhaps in the entire park) is about a mile into the trek—find a comfy rock to lean against and absorb the magnificent far-reaching view of Juniper Canyon. The untouched vista is absolutely mesmerizing—soak up the hundreds of miles of undulating terrain that’s offered the same panoramic scene for fortunate viewers for thousands of years.
This short excursion will introduce you to just about everything you’ll need to know about Big Bend. It’s just under a mile round-trip, but set aside an hour to fully absorb the dramatic vistas and desert intricacies. The trail starts in a somewhat bizarre fashion, with a boardwalk crossing over a body of water originating from the wetland natural spring. It’s a strange sight to see, especially since it’s immediately followed by a hot and hardscrabble trek across rocky terrain among myriad cacti and desert scrub brushes (a handy guide at the trailhead provides interesting information about the different plants). The highlight is the view from the top of the moderately sloped hill, where you’ll find sweeping vistas of the Rio Grande and Mexico. Look for the blocky bright white adobe buildings about a mile away in the Mexican village of Boquillas. The mighty Chisos Mountains loom in the background, presiding over a natural scene that is unlike any other you’ll experience.
Once visitors have experienced the awe-inspiring day hikes, they often feel compelled to take things to the next level. A popular follow-up excursion is to one of the backcountry campsites in the High Chisos Mountains along the trail system to the South Rim. These campsites, varying 1-8 miles each way, are accessible only by foot, and most involve an overnight trek.
For these trips, an overnight backcountry permit is required ($10), available only in person up to 24 hours in advance at all park visitors centers. Park staff can assist you with trip planning based on your needs and current trail conditions.
At 14 miles in length, the South Rim trek takes at least eight hours to complete. The Laguna Meadows trail traverses a dense forest popular with birders thanks to the abundant oak, maple, juniper, and piñon pine. Be sure to bring plenty of water (at least a gallon per person daily), food, sturdy shoes, and sunscreen.
Another popular backpacking trip is to the Emory Peak campsite, 3.7 miles from the trailhead via the Pinnacles Trail. Since it’s the highest elevation in the park and therefore a quest to be conquered, Emory Peak is a natural draw for many hikers. Not surprisingly, it’s rocky and steep, but the payoff comes in astounding views of Boot Canyon and the back face and summit of Emory Peak.
The only place to order a meal in Big Bend National Park is the Chisos Mountains Lodge Restaurant (432/477-2291, www.chisosmountainslodge.com, daily 7am-10am, 11am-4pm, and 5pm-8pm, $8-19). Fortunately, the food here is much better than expected for a remote national park, with a surprisingly varied menu offering regional fare (Tex-Mex, prickly pear cactus sauces, etc.), standard dishes (sandwiches, pastas), and hearty breakfasts to fuel a long morning trek. “Hikers lunches” are also available as to-go options. The views of the mountains (particularly The Window formation) are stunning through the floor-to-ceiling windows, and it’s always nice to know a decent meal is available daily with enough variety (along with beer and wine) to make things interesting for several days’ worth of eating.
The Big Bend region is rife with fascinating communities offering a unique perspective on the region’s heritage (the silver mine ghost town of Terlingua) and culture (the desert resort oasis in Lajitas). Consider planning an extra day or two for exploring these areas, or, if you’re pressed for time, set aside an evening or afternoon for an excursion to these one-of-a-kind communities.
West of Big Bend National Park is the awesome “little” cousin known as Big Bend Ranch State Park (1900 Sauceda Ranch Rd., 432/358-4444, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, $5 ages 13 and older). The park’s east entrance is at Barton Warnock Environmental Education Center, one mile east of Lajitas on FM 170, and the west entrance is four miles southeast of Presidio at Fort Leaton State Historic Site on FM 170.
This enormous chunk of property—more than 300,000 acres of remote Chihuahuan Desert wilderness—is the largest state park in Texas and has become quite popular with those in search of a genuinely remote natural experience.
The best way to explore the park is via a daylong tour customized for individual interests. The tour is led by knowledgeable guides in air-conditioned four-wheel-drive vehicles equipped with emergency resources, allowing visitors to safely (and comfortably) explore whatever aspects of the park intrigue them, from photography and bird-watching to history and archaeology. A highlight is the historic Crawford-Smith Ranch, which offers a step back in time to the region’s prime ranching years (early 1900s) when the site was a thriving oasis with freshwater from a fruitful natural spring. These days, there are only ruins of the ranch buildings, sunbaked adobe walls, and scattered personal items, including a shriveled cowboy boot. Barbed wire is still entwined in hand-hewn fence posts that once encircled livestock pens.
The park is best known for its spectacular views, especially along River Road between Lajitas and Presidio, a nearly 20-mile stretch considered to be the most scenic drive in Texas. Be prepared to spend several hours oooh-ing and aaah-ing as you’re greeted by magnificent mountain views around each turn and a compelling immediacy to the Rio Grande just a few feet away.
Containing some of the most isolated and rugged terrain in the state, Big Bend Ranch includes two mountain ranges formed by ancient volcanic activity and sheer-cliffed canyons. There are more than 100 miles of trails available for hiking and biking. Maps with updated routes are available on the park’s website or at ranger stations. Other activities include birding, horseback riding, backpacking, and paddling; however, the park’s remote and rugged nature should be taken into consideration.
If primitive backcountry camping and cooking don’t sound appealing, the park provides access to civilization with food and lodging at its Sauceda historic district. There’s a comfortable three-bedroom Big House ($100 per room), which accommodates eight and has a full kitchen. If that’s unavailable, consider lodging the authentic/historic way, by staying in the nearby Sauceda Bunk House ($35 nightly). The facility is separated into two sides, one for men and the other for women, but a homey “big room” offers communal space for sitting by the fire or reading and playing games. Worth noting: The beds are in semiprivate alcoves, which may not be for everyone, but certainly add to the unique experience. Contact the park in advance about meal availability, since you may have to bring your own food during the off-season (summer).
the Sauceda Bunk House in Big Bend Ranch State Park
The Big Bend region qualifies as America’s desert Southwest, so the abundance of adobe structures in the area should come as no surprise. But for many Texans and out-of-staters, their presence is beguiling and intriguing.
Fort Leaton State Historic Site in Presidio is a prime example of adobe architecture.
Considered one of the oldest building technologies, adobe is as natural as it gets—bricks comprised of earth, straw, and water are formed in wooden molds and dried in the sun for up to two weeks. A lime-based whitewall plaster is often applied to the walls to help deflect the sun and protect the bricks from the harsh desert elements. Unlike traditional oven-fired bricks, adobe is considered a low-strength product and therefore can only support minimal weight—most structures are no more than two stories tall.
The large bricks—typically between one and two feet thick—used in adobe structures provide ideal insulation against the extreme desert conditions of far West Texas. The roofs are typically flat, with tile or wooden canales (gutters) providing drainage off the sides of the building. Because the vigas (beams) supporting the roof tend to be restricted in length, the corresponding rooms are also narrow.
Archaeological evidence suggests adobe originated in the ancient Middle East, and it’s typically associated in the United States with Native American tribes in present-day New Mexico and Arizona, particularly the impressive pueblos in Taos and Acoma. Spanish explorers brought a similar adobe tradition, resulting in now-iconic structures such as missions, presidios, and dwellings across the South and West Texas landscape.
Many of the region’s adobe buildings are endangered due to erosion, but others remain in good shape thanks to dedicated restoration efforts and continual maintenance to repair crumbling bricks and deter moisture. The best examples of historic adobe architecture in the region include the Castolon historic district in Big Bend, the Sauceda Ranch in Big Bend Ranch State Park, Fort Leaton State Historic Site in Presidio, the Hudspeth County Courthouse in Sierra Blanca, and the Sacred Heart of Jesus Catholic Church in Ruidosa.
This is the liveliest ghost town you’ll ever experience. Quality restaurants, trendy lodging, and funky gift shops are just a few of the things you’ll encounter in the small community of Terlingua. Even the cemetery here is a major tourist attraction. The town was abandoned after its mercury mines closed in the 1940s (leading to its distinction as a ghost town), but it has since been revitalized as a tourist attraction with several hundred permanent residents.
Some of the souls laid to rest at the Terlingua Cemetery were workers at the Chisos Mining Co., a major quicksilver producer established in 1903. The liquid metal, eventually called mercury, was mined as cinnabar ore and recovered via a baking process to its metallic state. The mining company became one of the nation’s leading producers of quicksilver, peaking during World War I when 40 percent of the mercury mined in the United States came from Terlingua.
the historic Terlingua Cemetery
By World War II, mining operations ceased, leaving Terlingua abandoned until the late 1960s, when the village became famous for its annual chili cook-off. In 1967, the Chili Appreciation Society named Terlingua the “Chili Capital of the World,” and the event continues to draw thousands of people to this deserted desert community.
If you only have a short amount of time to spend here, be sure to visit the Terlingua Trading Company (100 Ivey St., 432/371-2234, www.terlinguatradingco.homestead.com, 10am-9pm “most always”) and adjacent Starlight Theater. These two buildings perfectly capture the Terlingua vibe, with enough lively folk art, friendly locals, and spicy border-influenced food to rouse the spirits at the famed cemetery just down the road. You can easily spend a half hour in the Trading Company, browsing the impressive book collection featuring national, statewide, and regional titles (including the entertaining Tales from the Terlingua Porch), Mexican-themed artwork, local snacks, toys, and the requisite Viva Terlingua! T-shirts. And it’s almost mandatory to grab a beer at the counter (they’re sold by the bottle from a room in the back) and take it out to the porch, where you can enjoy stunning views of the Chisos Mountains while being regaled with colorful stories from the local characters who gather on the porch each evening to do just that (drink and talk).
Plan to have a meal at the adjacent Starlight Theater (432/371-2326, www.thestarlighttheatre.com, Sun.-Fri. 5pm-midnight, Sat. 5pm-1am, $9-28). This historic 1930s theater now serves as a restaurant featuring hearty American fare, regional dishes (the chipotle-glazed pork medallions are a must), and some of the best margaritas you’ll ever experience. Also, the filet mignon is well worth the $27 (a pricey tag by West Texas standards), especially the grilled option with sautéed garlic and some of the tastiest mushrooms you’ll ever experience. A troubadour often accompanies your meal with lonesome Western songs from a small stage in the main dining area.
For a true taste of Terlingua flavor and culture, check out La Kiva Restaurant and Bar (Hwy. 170, 432/371-2250, www.la-kiva.com, daily 5pm-midnight, $7-21). To enter the front of this loco local spot, you have to go into a mine-like opening and descend a short stairwell before finding the bar and restaurant. The back portion of La Kiva overlooks Terlingua Creek, and there are plenty of windows and patio seats for those seeking to avoid the dark cave-like atmosphere. This rustic eatery is known for its top-notch pizza and mediocre Mexican food—the best bet is the Terlingua Trio, a combo plate of smoked chicken, ribs, and brisket.
Unless you’re visiting Terlingua during the raucous chili festival held the first week of November each year, you shouldn’t have trouble finding a room. Surprisingly, there are several decent lodging options in and around this tiny village, but the best choice by far is La Posada Milagro Guest House (100 La Posada Ln., 432/371-3044, www.laposadamilagro.net, $185 d). The historic stucco and stone facility offers luxury in the midst of the harsh desert climate via its four suites with large comfy beds, air-conditioning, sundecks, fire pits, hammocks, and Wi-Fi service. For those in search of a cheap place to rough it, consider the very low-key yet comfortable Chisos Mining Company Motel (23280 FM 170, 432/371-2254, www.motelsbigbend.com, $62 d). There’s a rustic charm to the bare-bones, wood-paneled rooms, and don’t be surprised if you’re awoken in the night by the disconcerting sound of coyotes (seemingly) right outside your room.
Approximately 60 miles west of Big Bend, Presidio (population 4,079) is known for its stunning scenery and incredibly hot weather.
Evidence of Native American tribes farming the fertile floodplains in the area dates to the 1200s, and the Spanish had a presence here beginning in the 1500s. As was the case in other areas of Texas, the Spaniards felt it was their mission to “civilize” the native groups, despite their proven ability to successfully cultivate crops, construct sturdy adobe homes, and practice their own religions.
The 1800s saw the arrival of Anglo settlers, including the controversial frontiersman Ben Leaton, who constructed a large fortress and ostracized locals. In recent decades, Presidio has gained a reputation as the end point of perhaps Texas’s most scenic drive, the breathtaking River Road (FM 170), featuring dramatic canyon views and stunning topographic changes along the Rio Grande coming from Lajitas. Presidio’s other claim to fame is not quite as enjoyable—its distinction as the hottest town in Texas. In June, temperature-gauge capacities are put to the test with astronomical highs averaging 103°F.
The scenic River Road traverses the Rio Grande.
Presidio’s only real tourist attraction is Fort Leaton State Historic Site (FM 170, 915/229-3613, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, daily 8am-4:30pm, $5 ages 13 and older), an enormous adobe home built by Leaton in 1848 on the site of a former Spanish settlement known as El Fortin de San Jose. Leaton is still considered a controversial figure by Mexican Americans. Originally employed by the Mexican government as a Native American scalp hunter, Leaton reportedly later encouraged Native American raids on Mexican villages by trading weapons and ammunition for stolen livestock. To this day, some locals of Mexican descent refuse to call the site Fort Leaton, opting instead to use its original name, “El Fortin.”
Regardless, the impressive structure is still worth visiting, with more than half of its 40-plus original rooms featuring fully restored adobe walls and roofs with cottonwood beams and rails. It’s easy to spend a few hours here just absorbing the fascinating adobe architecture—exposed walls reveal the sunbaked earthen bricks with straw and rocks, and stark wooden door and window frames. Outside, be sure to notice how the sun illuminates the soft corners of the plastered walls, casting evocative shadows and sunrays. Experience West Texas history through the informative exhibits and the region’s vernacular architecture in the home’s charming living and guest quarters, kitchen, dining room, and outbuildings.
Pretty much the only reliable place to eat in Presidio is the fortunately tasty El Patio (513 O’Reilly St., 432/229-4409, daily 7:30am-9:15pm, $7-17). It’s an especially welcome meal after spending a few days in Big Bend subsisting on camping and lodge food. Be prepared to hablar some espanol at El Patio (or to point convincingly at a menu item) since most folks here don’t speak English. It’s actually a nice reminder that you’re bordering another country while having the pleasure of sampling its authentic and flavorful food. Speaking of which, El Patio’s chiles rellenos are perfectly prepared, with just the right amount of lightly crisped exterior breading covering a subtly spicy pepper filled with smooth white cheese. Be sure to order a few extra tortillas to sop up any remaining beans and sauce.
Ever fed a beer to the mayor and watched him try to eat the can afterward? It used to happen regularly in Lajitas (population 150), where the esteemed mayor—a goat known as the Honorable Clay Henry III—held court at the Lajitas Trading Post. Unfortunately, Clay Henry III is no longer with us, but that doesn’t mean you can’t still honor his legacy.
Located at the far southwestern edge of Big Bend National Park, the tiny village (pronounced La-HEE-tas) draws visitors for its rugged natural beauty and fancy resort complex. Lajitas, Spanish for “little flat rocks,” was inhabited by Native Americans for centuries before Anglo settlers arrived. Its namesake smooth-rock river bottom was considered one of the best crossings on the Rio Grande between Del Rio and El Paso. In 1916, Lajitas became a center of intense military activity when Gen. John J. Pershing’s troops established a major cavalry post to protect the U.S. border against Pancho Villa and his bandits.
By the late 1970s, the town was virtually abandoned until entrepreneurs arrived to construct a luxury resort complex, drawing travelers from across the world who enjoyed a little pampering with their hiking and rafting. The resort has endured different owners and different approaches to dealing with locals and tourists, but it typically remains open, even if it’s in a limited capacity. The area has also been popular with movie producers who savor the incredibly untouched 360-degree vantage points.
One of the few activities available in Lajitas is the Barton Warnock Environmental Education Center (one mile east of town on FM 170, 432/424-3327, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, daily 8am-5pm, $5 ages 13 and older), showcasing the archaeology, history, and natural wonders of the Big Bend region. The center serves as the eastern gateway to Big Bend Ranch State Park and features exhibits and displays dedicated to 570 million years of geological history and the biological landscapes of the Chihuahuan Desert. A self-guided botanical garden is well worth visiting, offering a fascinating sample of the desert’s characteristic flora.
Those looking for a bite to eat in town are in luck since the two restaurants within the Lajitas Resort and Spa feature high-quality regional fare. On the upscale side is Ocotillo, with a surprisingly extensive wine list and a menu offering exquisite West Texas wild game dishes, including the requisite rattlesnake cakes. The Candelilla Café features contemporary Southwestern cuisine enhanced with local ingredients like prickly pear cactus, indigenous peppers, and homegrown herbs.
For lodging, there’s nothing else like the remarkable Lajitas Golf Resort and Spa (FM 170, 432/424-5000, www.lajitasgolfresort.com, $150-370). This 27,000-acre private estate boasts more than 100 rooms, ranging from modest hotel-size quarters with cowboy-chic decor to spacious and elegant hacienda cottages, all with coffeemakers, satellite television (a rarity out here), refrigerators, and luxurious amenities. Although the idea of a (partially) bright green golf course in the midst of a desert may seem off-putting to some, others embrace the opportunity to play a round in an unmatched natural environment. The resort offers myriad packages to choose from, combining lodging options with golfing packages, meals, activities, spa treatments, and day trips. There’s also an equestrian center, an inviting pool, boardwalk shops (a couple, at least), and bird-watching tours. Check the website for available options.
The rugged isolation of the Big Bend region lures adventure-minded visitors, but there are other travelers looking for activities involving less . . . adventure. These travelers may opt to make a run for Marathon, considered the “gateway” to Big Bend National Park since it’s the last town on the last road to the park.
An ideal home base is the remarkable 1927 Gage Hotel (102 NW 1st St., 432/386-4205, www.gagehotel.com, $135-300). This welcoming oasis on the edge of the desert is teeming with authentic West Texas and Mexican-inspired decor, like handcrafted rustic doors and wrought-iron candelabra fixtures. Be sure to spend some time in the Gage’s amazing White Buffalo Bar, an ideal place to chat with locals while sipping on a Big Bend Brewery ale under the watchful eye of the giant stuffed white buffalo on the adobe wall. Order some appetizers at the bar (the sliders are astounding), or walk a few steps over for dinner at the adjacent 12 Gage Restaurant, where you can order a prickly pear margarita accompanied by tender steak, pork tenderloin, or wild boar.
the charming Gage Hotel in Marathon
The Gage also serves as a hub for the highly recommended heritage bike route, a five-mile ride to Post Park just south of Marathon (details at www.texasmountaintrail.com/bike). The scenic route offers a great escape for visitors in search of a moderate workout accompanied by fascinating history and unencumbered vistas. Stops include the historic Marathon Cemetery and Post Park, where Native Americans used to visit the natural springs nearly 7,000 years ago. Bicycle and equipment rental can be arranged by Gage staff.
If you’re looking for something slightly more affordable, one of the only other options in town is the Marathon Motel (701 US-90, 432/386-4241, www.marathonmotel.com, $80-160). Things are pretty basic here, but the rooms are clean, the Wi-Fi is free, and there’s a nice courtyard where you can enjoy a coffee.
Many people travel to Big Bend for the amazing camping opportunities (more about those in a bit), but others just want to experience the great outdoors during the day with a reliable roof, walls, and bed frame surrounding them at night. Fortunately, the park offers the Chisos Mountains Lodge (432/477-2291, www.chisosmountainslodge.com, rooms average $139). Situated nearly a mile high in a cozy little basin surrounded by mountain peaks, the lodge offers a no-frills experience befitting of its remote and rugged location. The two-story lodge buildings are thankfully unremarkable in appearance and amenities, prompting guests to spend most of their time on hiking trails or on the sparse porches. In fact, one of the lodge’s best amenities is its lack of a TV—you may have to read a book or (gulp) just talk to your fellow travelers while sipping on a tequila or glass of wine. The rooms include tile baths, tubs, and showers; hair dryers; coffeepots; refrigerators; microwaves; and housekeeping service, so you don’t have to worry about being too far removed from the comforts of modern civilization.
If you plan far enough in advance (almost a year ahead of time), you can snag a coveted spot in the park’s premier accommodations: the Roosevelt Stone Cottages (432/477-2291, www.chisosmountainslodge.com, $159). These five stone cottages are removed from the hub of activity at the main lodge, and each cabin features stone floors and three double beds, showers, hair dryers, coffeepots, refrigerators, microwaves, and ceiling fans (no air-conditioning is available, which isn’t usually a problem at this elevation). The cabins are highly recommended, since it’s likely you won’t be out here very often and the appeal of staying in your own private quarters in this beautiful park is unparalleled. These historic (1940s) cottages are oozing with mountain character, from the regional art and photos on the walls, to the welcoming porches, to the big windows that capture a nice gentle breeze. Keep them open at night for perfect sleeping weather—you won’t even need to turn on the ceiling fan.
The park also offers three developed campgrounds—Rio Grande Village, Chisos Basin, and Cottonwood Campground (877/444-6777, www.recreation.gov, sites average $12 plus service fees)—for tent camping, trailers, and RVs. Rio Grande Village, on the far eastern edge of the park among trees (and insects) near the river, has the only available hookups for RVs. The campground has 100 sites, flush toilets, running water, and a dump station. The Chisos Basin Campground is the most scenic of the bunch (and closest to the full-service restaurant). It’s rugged and hilly, and not recommended for RVs. If you want to wake up in the morning and be immediately greeted by a scenic mountain view, this is the place to be. Cottonwood Campground, on the west side of the park, is in the lowlands of the Rio Grande. It’s appealing for its namesake cottonwood trees and proximity to the historic Castolon village and Santa Elena Canyon. Big Bend also offers dozens of primitive camping sites (many are only accessible by high-clearance vehicle or four-wheel drive). These sites typically consist of only a flat gravel pad, and a backcountry permit is required from park headquarters.
Big Bend National Park includes several visitors centers offering maps and, most important, informed guides who help enhance visits by suggesting the perfect activities for travelers’ particular comfort levels. The main center is at the park headquarters at Panther Junction (www.nps.gob/bibe), about 26 miles from the north entrance gate (arriving from Marathon) and 25 miles from the western gate. The renovated visitors center offers interpretive exhibits and scores of books, brochures, and maps. The park’s other visitors centers—Chisos Mountains, Castolon, and Rio Grande Village—are slightly smaller and typically closed in the summer, but they’re still packed with valuable information and helpful professionals.
A handy way to plan your trip to the Big Bend region is via the Visit Big Bend website (www.visitbigbend.com), offering interactive maps and handy resources for food, lodging, and activities. Another helpful option is the Texas Mountain Trail Region (432/294-4312, www.texasmountaintrail.com), a subsidiary of the Texas Historical Commission’s heritage tourism initiative.
During the early 2000s, the small railroad stop of Marfa (population 1,819) became an unlikely cultural hotbed for artists and visitors from across the country and the world. When the Great Recession arrived a decade later, things slowed down somewhat, but the growth and international exposure left indelible marks on the community. Though it may seem like a positive thing—national exposure brings valued tourism dollars and puts a spotlight on the region’s natural beauty and quirky charm—it generated concern among the independent-minded residents who weren’t too keen on the higher property taxes and curious outsiders.
The town was established in 1883 as a railroad water stop and was reportedly named by a railroad executive’s wife who made the suggestion based on a character from Fyodor Dostoyevsky’s The Brothers Karamazov, which she was reading at the time. Two years later, a magnificent three-story Renaissance Revival courthouse was built downtown, providing a jarring contrast to the surrounding barren West Texas landscape. Refurbished to its original glory with the help of the Texas Historical Commission, the courthouse remains a downtown focal point and one of the state’s architectural gems.
In 1911, the U.S. military established a presence in Marfa in response to the nearby Mexican Revolution, and troops remained in the area for several decades with the establishment of the Marfa Army Air Field and Camp Albert (later renamed Camp Marfa, then Fort D. A. Russell, and now the home of the fascinating Chinati art foundation).
Another of Marfa’s most compelling properties, the exquisite Hotel Paisano, served as the operations base for the epic 1956 film Giant, starring Rock Hudson, Elizabeth Taylor, and James Dean. With its sweeping vistas and spectacular sky, Marfa continues to draw filmmakers, most notably as the backdrop for many scenes in two Oscar-nominated movies: No Country for Old Men and There Will Be Blood.
With its lofty elevations and spectacular scenery, Marfa is also a popular spot for outdoor recreational activities, including the links at Marfa Municipal Golf Course, the highest golf course in Texas, and glider excursions, benefiting from the area’s strong thermal updrafts and unparalleled views. When visitors aren’t enjoying the cooler temperatures, they head to the trendy art galleries, boutiques, and coffee shops in the historic downtown area. Worth noting: Much of Marfa is closed on Monday and Tuesday, so be sure to check ahead with restaurants and attractions to make sure they’re open before making plans for early in the week.
Marfa, Alpine, and Fort Davis form a nice West Texas triangle, each about 25 miles away from the other. To get there and around, take the lone highway to each and look for your destination—most are on the only/main highway in town.
Despite being a tiny town in the absolute middle of nowhere, Marfa is packed with activities. The enormous sky is an attraction unto itself, but many visitors are captivated by the mysterious Marfa Lights and the Chinati Foundation, a worldwide destination containing avant-garde installation artwork housed in historic army barracks.
There’s nothing else in the world quite like the Chinati Foundation (1 Cavalry Row, 432/729-4362, www.chinati.org, tours Wed.-Sun., $10-25 adults, $5-10 students and seniors, ages 16 and under free). This unconventional art museum and artist compound is housed in nearly a dozen historic structures (barracks, artillery sheds, prisoner of war compounds) of the former Camp D. A. Russell army site. Based on the ideas of minimalist artist Donald Judd, Chinati features an amazing array of artwork, from Judd’s large-scale pieces—most notably, a mammoth artillery shed containing stark metal boxes of varying size—to patterned fluorescent light sculptures, to sketches and paintings, to a large metal sculpture by famous Swedish-born artist Claes Oldenburg.
the Chinati Foundation in Marfa
Judd’s vision for the foundation was to blend art, architecture, and nature in an environment far different from traditional metropolitan art spaces. Artists and art lovers from across the world journey to this spectacular location to experience this fascinating confluence of elements, perhaps best represented by the compelling dichotomy presented in the barrack buildings: On one end of the room you’ll find a bright pink fluorescent light sculpture, while the window on the opposite wall reveals the rugged beauty of the West Texas desert landscape.
Chinati offers one official tour Wednesday-Sunday, starting at 10am, featuring the foundation’s permanent installations by Judd, John Chamberlain, Ilya Kabakov, Richard Long, and David Rabinowitch. After a noon-ish lunch break, the tour resumes at 2pm with a focus on permanent installations by Carl Andre, Dan Flavin, Roni Horn, Claes Oldenburg, and John Wesley, as well as the museum’s current temporary exhibition. A separate self-guided tour, available Wednesday-Sunday noon-3pm, showcases Judd’s permanent installation of 100 untitled works in mill aluminum.
Drawing even more tourists than Chinati are the mysterious Marfa Lights (about 8 miles east of Marfa on U.S. Hwy. 90, 915/729-4942), typically visible just after dusk on clear evenings. These bouncing, splitting, and disappearing ethereal orbs have confounded people for more than a century (but mostly in the past six decades), and the viewing center just off the highway hosts thousands of curiosity seekers annually who flock to the site for a chance to see the mystifying white, yellow, and orange lights suspended in the air with no apparent source. Adding to the intrigue is their distance—at any given time they appear to be either 100 yards away or 10 miles away. There are many theories about the unexplained phenomenon, from Apache folklore to UFO sightings to vehicle headlights; however, a scientific explanation has yet to emerge.
First documented in 1883, explanations for the lights range from swamp gasses to bizarre bouts of electrostatic discharge to moonlight shining on shiny rocks in the Chinati Mountains. Scientists acknowledge their existence but take some of the fun out of the phenomenon by suggesting the lights are a mirage-like visual effect generated by the interaction of cold and warm layers of air, causing light to bend and move. Regardless, the absence of a valid and accepted explanation is ultimately the Marfa Lights’ main draw. They defy explanation, and that’s exactly why people continue to marvel at their mysteriousness.
Perhaps not surprisingly, one of the most popular attractions in the area is an enormous piece of art: Prada Marfa (about 37 miles west of Marfa on the south side of U.S. Hwy. 90). A permanent art installation mimicking a small Prada retail store, this adobe and plaster structure features display windows showcasing handbags and shoes with atmospheric interior lighting. Depending on who’s doing the critiquing, the artwork is either mimicking the trendy visitors and artistes who descend on this remote landscape or is just “dumb,” as vandals painted on the walls soon after its opening. Regardless, it’s well worth the half-hour drive for the unique photo op (even Beyonce has done it) and to participate in the tradition of leaving behind a business card or shoe for the next round of pop-art aficionados to admire.
Marfa’s exquisite three-story Presidio County Courthouse (320 N. Highland St., 432/729-4670, www.co.presidio.tx.us) was built in 1886 and restored with the help of the Texas Historical Commission’s Texas Historic Courthouse Preservation Program. The building is a remarkable example of Second Empire architecture, featuring a light pink exterior of stone and local brick along with the stylish detailing and mansard roofs fashionable in Europe at the time of its construction. If you’re in town during weekday business hours, pop in for a look at the intricate interior woodwork and impressive attention to detail in the light fixtures and windows.
the restored Presidio County Courthouse in downtown Marfa
Even if you’re lodging elsewhere, it’s worth dropping by the elegant Hotel Paisano (207 N. Highland Ave., 800/662-5517, www.hotelpaisano.com). Opened in 1930, the hotel was a gathering place for cattlemen and ranchers as well as a destination for railroad travelers between San Antonio and California. The Paisano’s Spanish colonial-style architecture features colorful ceramic tile, ornate woodwork, and wrought iron. It became legendary in the 1950s when it served as headquarters for the classic movie Giant, starring Rock Hudson, Elizabeth Taylor, and James Dean. Several suites are named in their honor, and a display case in the lobby contains movie memorabilia. Visitors can enjoy a cocktail at the Paisano’s courtyard patio, with its soothing fountain and pleasant atmosphere. The restaurant is also a major draw, featuring upscale dishes of contemporary and Southwestern fare.
A bookstore isn’t typically a major tourist attraction, but most bookstores aren’t like Marfa Book Store Co. (105 S. Highland Ave., 432/729-3700, www.marfabookco.com, daily 9am-8pm). The store is a magnet for the town’s creative community, with an incredible selection of regional and intellectual-themed books, a small art gallery, and numerous readings and events. Its focus is on art and architecture, and you can get lost browsing through the sections devoted to photography, folk art, interior design, and other creative pursuits. The bookstore also showcases contemporary and regional writers and poets, and offers gifts, occasional coffees, and one of the few public Wi-Fi spaces in town.
With the influx of out-of-towners and money, it’s not surprising that Marfa’s culinary scene is a bit more diverse than other Texas communities of its size. Fortunately, the new arrivals are respectful of local cuisine, and even if some of the prices are approaching Houston or Dallas levels, the atmosphere and variety of food are purely West Texan.
One of Marfa’s “charms” is that its restaurants are open irregularly. Fortunately, hot meals are available throughout each day at Hotel Paisano’s Jett’s Grill (207 N. Highland Ave., 432/729-3838, www.hotelpaisano.com/dining, daily 7:30am-10am and 2pm-9pm, $5-20). You don’t have to be a hotel guest to enjoy Jett’s tasty regional cuisine. For breakfast, grab a homemade egg-packed burrito with potatoes and a green chile sauce. Dinner is a highlight, particularly the chicken-fried steak with creamy gravy and a roasted jalapeño. Other top-notch options include the Angus burger and pistachio-crusted sirloin steak. Pair ’em all with a local beer on tap from Big Bend Brewery.
For an incredibly fresh, fancy, and full-flavored meal, be sure to stop by Cochineal (107 W. San Antonio St., 432/729-3300, www.cochinealmarfa.com, daily 5:30pm-10pm, $10-28). Located in the heart of downtown, Cochineal feels like it could be in Austin but doesn’t seem out of place in Marfa. The space is open and contemporary, and the food is packed with flavor. The menu changes regularly, but past highlights include a super-tasty chilaquiles (a Mexican casserole with roast chicken, homemade tortilla chips, tomatillo sauce, and creamy cheese) and the rack of lamb with butternut squash.
Visitors can still order traditional small-town food in Marfa, too. A popular choice with locals and families is the Pizza Foundation (100 E. San Antonio St., 432/729-3377, www.pizzafoundation.com, Fri.-Sun. 1pm till “the dough runs out in the evening,” $5-15). At the intersection of the only stoplight in town, this comfy eatery in a former gas station building is a welcome destination. The thin-sliced pie is perfectly prepared from scratch with a hearty tomato sauce and a fresh variety of toppings. The healthy salads and frozen limeade are necessary pairings with a slice or four of this tasty pizza—enjoy all of it inside or out on the small patio.
If eating outside is up your alley, head to the mobile trailer called Food Shark (usually located under the pavilion near the railroad tracks, 281/386-6540, www.foodsharkmarfa.com, typically open Wed.-Sat. noon-3pm, $5-10). Not surprisingly, the menu is somewhat limited at this restaurant-on-wheels, but the available options are creative and filling, skewing toward Mediterranean-style versions of West Texas favorites. A perfect example: the spicy, seasoned Marfalafel. Wash it all down with a sweet (as in real sugar) Mexican Coke in a bottle.
One of the only other downtown establishments within walking distance of the Thunderbird and Paisano hotels is the highly recommended Marfa Burrito (104 E. Waco St., 432/514-8675, call for hours, $5-11). Marfa Burrito serves up diner-style goodness with a Mexican twist. The eggs with green chiles are a perfect way to jump-start your day, the breakfast burritos are flavorfully wrapped in an astounding homemade tortilla, and the coffee is some of the best in town. Those same incredible tortillas wrap the lunch burritos, the best among them including picadillo beef and primo veggie.
When you’re downtown marveling at the Presidio County Courthouse or checking out the art galleries, be sure to drop by the tucked-away Squeeze Marfa (215 N. Highland Ave., 432/729-4500, Tues.-Sun. 8am-3pm, $5-10). There’s much more on the menu than just drinks, but the flavorful fruit juices and satisfying smoothies are the main draw. Other highlights include the perfectly grilled panini, the homemade soups, and the chocolate corner featuring high-quality Swiss chocolate.
Marfa’s lodging options are limited but eclectic—there’s something (except large chain hotels) for everyone. Visitors have the good fortune of choosing from the magnificent Hotel Paisano, the chic Thunderbird, or the standard Riata Inn. And don’t forget the funky trailer park with outdoor showers.
For the ultimate West Texas lodging experience, book a room at the historic S Hotel Paisano (207 N. Highland Ave., 800/662-5517, www.hotelpaisano.com, $99-149). This charming and classy hotel lies just a block away from the majestic downtown courthouse and harkens back to the days of upscale accommodations for cross-country travelers and cattle traders. The Spanish colonial architecture adds a touch of regional elegance to the experience, and guests have a wide range of room options, from the smaller quarters in the original part of the hotel to larger suites with balconies, kitchens, and plasma TVs. Call well in advance to reserve the popular James Dean room, where the movie icon stayed during the filming of Giant.
Equally as extraordinary, for completely different reasons, is the trendy and sleek Thunderbird Motel (601 W. Hwy. 90/San Antonio St., 432/729-1984, www.thunderbirdmarfa.com, $130-180 d). Built in 1959 as a classic horseshoe-shaped roadside motel surrounding a swimming pool, the building has been tastefully remodeled with stylish stucco and accompanied by native flora. Rooms feature polished concrete floors, locally built pecan furniture, quality bedding, minibars with specialty beverages and organic and local snacks, Wi-Fi service, access to vintage Stack-O-Matic record players and a vinyl library, and a thermos of coffee in a cloth bag placed on the doorknob at 7am.
One of the newest, funkiest, and most popular lodging options in town is S El Cosmico (802 S. Highland Ave., 432/729-1950, www.elcosmico.com, $55-95 for safari tents, $165 for yurts, $110-195 for fully equipped trailers). This “campground hotel” consists of a cool collection of renovated vintage trailers, a tepee, a few eco-shack yurts, and several regular ol’ campsites. The stylishly redecorated 1950s-era trailers include stoves, small fridges, fans, floor heating, and bathrooms with hot water. Bedding materials and cooking provisions are provided, and Wi-Fi access is available in the lobby lounge. Be aware that most trailers include an outdoor shower, which seems strange at first but is ultimately quite liberating without sacrificing privacy or comfort (strategically placed walls protect you from public view and the steady breeze).
The funky “campground hotel” El Cosmico is on the outskirts of Marfa.
El Cosmico is more than just a trendy/quirky place to spend the night, it’s a concept—the goal is to build a sustainable community environment that “fosters and agitates artistic and intellectual exchange.” Guests are encouraged to attain this by participating in the communal space (an elm grove filled with hammocks, an outdoor kitchen and dining spaces, and a community lounge and mercantile).
If these options offer too much character (or, more realistically, a strain on the wallet), the only “standard” choice in town is the commendable Riata Inn (1500 E. Hwy. 90, 432/729-3800, www.riatainnmarfa.com, $89 d). The Riata features extra-large versions of typical hotel rooms, each offering Internet access, flat-screen TVs with cable, and access to an outdoor pool.
The Marfa Chamber of Commerce (207 N. Highland Ave., 432/729-4942, www.marfacc.com) provides information about the community’s limited yet interesting resources.
Fort Davis (population 1,201) truly feels like the Old West. Nestled among the Davis Mountains—therefore dubbed “the highest town in Texas”—Fort Davis exhibits the charm of an authentic Western community, with wide windswept streets containing flat-faced and sun-faded buildings under an enormous sky.
Fort Davis was established in 1854 by Secretary of War Jefferson Davis as one of the key army posts in West Texas’s development and defense. The fort was briefly abandoned during the Civil War, allowing Native Americans to strip much of the buildings’ wood for fuel, but it was reoccupied in 1867 and by the mid-1880s was a major operation with more than 600 men and 60-plus adobe and stone structures.
During this time, Fort Davis was home to several regiments of Buffalo Soldiers, African Americans who earned distinction as brave fighters and served alongside Anglo soldiers, a rare case of desegregation in the late 1800s. As settlement increased in the area and native populations dispersed, the fort’s original purpose became obsolete, and it was abandoned in 1891.
The town’s remote and rugged location made it a difficult destination to reach, resulting in slow growth throughout the 1900s. These days, its mild climate and natural beauty draw thousands of visitors annually from Austin and other urban areas in search of a high-altitude respite from the grueling summer heat. Fort Davis’s intrigue lies in its proximity to attractions like the fascinating McDonald Observatory and breathtaking Davis Mountains State Park, as well as its refreshingly unspoiled allure, particularly compared to the “discovered” towns of Marfa and Alpine.
Be sure to set aside an hour or two for Fort Davis National Historic Site (on Hwy. 17 in Fort Davis, 432/426-3224, www.nps.gov/foda, daily 8am-5pm, $7 ages 16 and older). Considered one of the country’s best remaining examples of a 19th-century frontier military post, Fort Davis draws visitors from across the country. Families and history buffs can spend as much time as they like on the self-guided tour, showcasing the post’s 20 buildings and more than 100 ruins. Of particular interest are the restored barrack buildings and officers’ quarters with period furnishings and military equipment, offering a slice of life on a frontier base in the late 1800s. Opened in 1854, Fort Davis played a key role in the history of the Southwest by protecting settlers, mail coaches, and travelers on the San Antonio-El Paso Road. The fort is especially notable for serving as the base for several regiments of African American troops known as Buffalo Soldiers, who helped maintain peaceful settlement in the region.
Sitting high atop 6,791-foot-tall Mount Locke, the remarkable McDonald Observatory (on Hwy. 118, 16 miles west of Fort Davis, 432/426-3640, www.mcdonaldobservatory.org, daily 10am-5:30pm, $8 adults, $7 children ages 6-12, additional charge for star parties) makes good use of its position approaching the heavens. Three large domes beckon visitors to the facility, which opened in 1939 with the world’s second-largest telescope and has served astronomers and visitors ever since. The observatory’s impressive equipment includes the massive Hobby-Eberly Telescope, with a 36-foot-wide mirror comprised of 91 laser-aligned segments, and two other telescopes to monitor the sun, stars, and planets. Visitors have the option of attending informative guided tours (11:30am and 2:30pm), solar viewings (30 minutes before the tours), and dramatic star parties (after dusk every Tues., Fri., and Sat.), but the spectacular views of the surrounding mountains and valleys are reason alone to make the journey.
the McDonald Observatory
It’s worth the 38-mile drive north of Fort Davis to experience the spectacular scenery and distinctive allure of Balmorhea State Park (Hwy. 17, 432/375-2370, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, $7 ages 13 and older). If you have the time, book a night at the historic adobe motel, featuring spacious rooms with cable TV but no phones. The park’s centerpiece is San Solomon Springs, gushing up to 26 million gallons of refreshingly cool water daily into a large artificial swimming pool. The deep artesian springs offer an ideal spot for scuba diving, so it’s fairly common to see divers in the far corner of the pool exploring the unique aquatic life in the crystal-clear water. The springs also feed a fascinating desert wetland, providing a habitat and life source for scores of uncommon birds and plantlife. The viewing areas—a large wooden overlook and subsurface water window—are especially intriguing.
Balmorhea State Park’s spring-fed pool offers a respite from the Texas heat.
Overlooking the Fort Davis area’s signature red-hued outcroppings is Davis Mountains State Park (Hwy. 118, 432/426-3337, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, $6 ages 13 and older). The park boasts 1,000 feet of elevation change and is a popular destination for hikers and campers who relish the natural beauty and cooler temperatures. Considered one of Texas’s most scenic areas, the park showcases its namesake mountains, the most extensive range in the state. The park draws mountain bikers and hikers from across the state who marvel at the incredible views of the park’s picturesque canyon formed by Keesey Creek. Hard-core campers also appreciate the park’s Limpia Canyon Primitive Area, with 10 miles of backcountry hiking trails and primitive tent campsites. Other popular activities include bird-watching, stargazing, and cruising Skyline Drive, a paved road with two spectacular overlooks showcasing the Chinati Mountains, located 75 miles to the southwest. The park is also home to the famous Indian Lodge, a historic adobe hotel still in operation.
Check out the mystique of the region’s surroundings at the Chihuahuan Desert Visitor Center (43869 Hwy. 118, 432/364-2499, www.cdri.org, Mon.-Sat. 9am-5pm, $6 adults, children ages 12 and under free). Visitors can experience the wonders of the Chihuahuan Desert region firsthand by exploring the fairly strenuous Modesta Canyon Trail, a one-hour hike, and the scenic Clayton’s Overlook hike, offering amazing views of the area’s diverse topography. The center’s succulent greenhouse features more than 200 species of Chihuahuan Desert cacti as well as other attractions, like the 20-acre botanical garden, an interpretive center with indoor and outdoor educational exhibits, and educational programs.
A good place to kick off your limited Fort Davis culinary tour is the low-key and down-home Fort Davis Drug Store (113 N. State St., 432/426-3118, Sun.-Fri. 7:30am-7:30pm, $8-15). This old-fashioned soda fountain and restaurant is known for its comfort food, namely, chicken-fried steak, thick burgers, and hearty breakfasts. Top your meal off with a root beer float and a souvenir from the attached old-fashioned drugstore.
The only place in town with a full Tex-Mex menu is the commendable Cueva de Leon Cafe (611 N. State St., 432/426-3801, daily 11am-9pm, $7-14). Located in the heart of the tiny downtown area, the restaurant is known for its spectacular chiles rellenos (perfectly breaded and not too spicy) and its flavorful chicken enchiladas with tangy green sauce.
The best place in town for a high-quality yet casual dinner is the Hotel Limpia’s Blue Mountain Bistro (100 Main St., 432/426-3241, www.blue-mountain-bistro.com, daily 5pm-8pm, breakfast Sat.-Sun. 7:30am-10am, $10-30). Opt for the gouda cheese fries or mushroom caps as a starter, and proceed to the recommended main course: a hearty char-grilled Angus steak. Or the stuffed pork chop. Or even the mountain trout. Be sure to save room for the homemade pies.
If you plan far enough in advance, you may have the good fortune of staying at the immensely popular S Indian Lodge (Park Rd. 3, 432/426-3254, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, $90 d). Built in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps, the multilevel pueblo-style hotel is nestled among the ridges of Davis Mountains State Park. The rustic cedar furnishings and woodwork coupled with the whitewash-covered 18-inch-thick adobe walls provide a distinctly Southwestern visceral experience. The lodge also features a full-service year-round restaurant and an outdoor swimming pool.
Another popular lodging option in Fort Davis is Hotel Limpia (100 Main St., 432/426-3241, www.hotellimpia.com, $99 and up), a beautifully restored 1912 hotel containing period furnishings, four buildings, and a cottage. The charming guest rooms and welcoming courtyard garden with rocking chairs and lush vegetation offer a pleasant respite from city life.
Those in search of a newer facility will find solace at the downtown Harvard Hotel (109 N. State St., 432/426-2500, www.harvardhotelandlodge.com, $95-125). This rustic-looking yet modern-feeling facility offers rooms with DVD players, refrigerators, microwaves, and Internet access.
With its quaint downtown and abundant natural beauty, Fort Davis is an ideal place to stay in a B&B. One of the best in town is The Veranda (210 Court Ave., 432/426-2233, www.theveranda.com, $95-125). Just a block away from the beautifully restored Jeff Davis County Courthouse, The Veranda’s 13 antiques-bedecked suites feature 12-foot-tall ceilings, private baths, and free Wi-Fi service. The inn also boasts walled gardens and quiet courtyards with rocking chairs and tables in the shadow of Sleeping Lion Mountain.
Just down the road are the cozy and comfortable Butterfield Inn Cottages (201 State St., 432/426-3252, www.butterfieldinn.com, $85-150). Each of these mini homes contains fireplaces, recliners, refrigerators, microwaves, and private baths with Jacuzzi tubs.
Aside from Big Bend, the best camping in the region is at Davis Mountains State Park (Hwy. 118, 432/426-3337, www.tpwd.state.tx.us). The park’s northern section is the Limpia Canyon Primitive Area, a special-use district with 10 miles of backcountry hiking trails and primitive tent campsites. The park’s developed facilities are south of Highway 118 and include restrooms with showers; campsites with water, electricity, sewer, and cable TV connection; and nine miles of hiking trails, some leading to Fort Davis National Historic Site.
Those traveling in RVs may want to hook up in downtown Fort Davis at the Overland Trail Campground (307 N. State St., 432/426-2250, www.texascamping.com), offering cable and Wi-Fi service, a coin laundry, showers, tent areas with water and electric, fully equipped cabins, and a biker camping area with accessible facilities.
For a small town, Fort Davis has well-organized and extremely helpful visitor service. The best way to start planning your trip is via the handy website hosted by the Fort Davis Chamber of Commerce (4 Memorial Sq., 432/426-3015, www.fortdavis.com). Drop by the office for brochures, maps, and helpful advice.
Don’t be fooled by the town’s name. Alpine evokes images of snowcapped peaks and lofty magnificence. You won’t find that here. Instead, you’ll encounter plenty of West Texas charm and fantastic food along the extra-wide streets of this historic community that serves as the economic hub of the Big Bend region.
Alpine’s (population 5,952) origins date to 1882 when laborers pitched their tents at the base of a mountain while working on the transcontinental railroad that traversed the region. The town slowly added residents until 1921, when the opening of Sul Ross State Normal College (now Sul Ross State University) resulted in a significant population increase. The university, railroad, and ranching industries solidified Alpine’s status as the stable economic core of far West Texas.
Since Big Bend’s opening in the 1940s, Alpine has become a destination for travelers who often schedule an extra day or two in town on their way to or from the park to enjoy the mild climate and cultural resources, including several noteworthy museums, restaurants, and year-round recreational activities. The Alpine visitors center offers a handy brochure with a map featuring a walking tour of historic downtown buildings. Popular annual events include the Texas Cowboy Poetry Gathering and Trappings of Texas in February, Cinco de Mayo celebration in May, and Big Bend Balloon Bash on Labor Day weekend.
Alpine’s most significant cultural attraction is the Museum of the Big Bend (1000 E. Sul Ross Ave., 432/837-8730, www.sulross.edu/~museum, Tues.-Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. 1pm-5pm, free). On the Sul Ross State University campus, the museum’s impressive collections showcase the confluence of cultures in the region—Native American, Spanish, Mexican, and Anglo. Visitors learn about the cultures that have occupied the area for thousands of years via ancient tribal artifacts, historic frontier items, and life-size dioramas. Be sure to check out the fascinating Chihuahuan Desert Cactus Garden near the museum’s entrance.
The biggest cultural attraction to arrive on the scene is Big Bend Brewing Co. (3401 W. Hwy 90, 432/837-3700, www.bigbendbrewing.com, Wed.-Fri. 4pm-6pm, Sat. 1pm-6pm, tours $10). The brewery is open for tours on “most Saturdays” at 1pm and 3pm. Visitors can learn about the brewery’s special and regular beers, including La Frontera IPA, Number 22 Porter, and Tejas Lager. The tour includes a sampling of regional history and concludes with a pour of whichever draft sounds most beguiling. Even if you can’t make it to the brewery, regional establishments are increasingly offering its top-notch beers on tap and in convenience stores.
Big Bend Brewing Co.
For some visitors—baseball fans, in particular—the city’s cultural highlight is the amazing Kokernot Field (at the intersection of Hwy. 223 and N. 2nd St.). This beautiful historic ballpark is a baseball fan’s dream, featuring unexpected details around every corner, such as the wrought-iron fencing with baseball-shaped patterns, the lamps with handmade stitched-baseball themes, and spectacular views of the mountains looming beyond the outfield. The park opened in 1947 when legendary rancher and philanthropist Herbert Kokernot used his fortune to bring semipro baseball to Alpine. Kokernot spared no expense, investing more than $1.5 million on the park—an exorbitant amount at the time—to make his dream a reality. The minor league Alpine Cowboys played at Kokernot Field from 1947 through 1958, drawing capacity crowds who appreciated the architectural gem and the quality of talent on the diamond. Since the ballpark is currently home to the Sul Ross State University Lobos, the field is typically closed to the public unless a game is scheduled (Feb.-Apr., check www.sulross.edu for game times).
the remarkable Kokernot Field in Alpine
It’s a bit of a drive—everything out here is—but worth the effort to experience Woodward Ranch (18 miles south of Alpine on Hwy. 118, 432/364-2271, call for times and fees). The ranch offers several recreational activities, including hiking, scenic drives, bird-watching, and stargazing, but it’s primarily known as a gemstone collecting destination. The 3,000-acre property contains more than 60 kinds of naturally occurring agates and gemstones that visitors can hunt and gather. Discover desirable (but not necessarily valuable) Texas agates such as red plume and pompom, as well as opal, jasper, and calcite. Upon returning to ranch headquarters, visitors can consult with staff about identifying and appraising their finds. Guide services are available, and a lapidary (stone) shop is on-site.
Alpine isn’t known for its abundance of tourist attractions, but its quality restaurants are a major draw for visitors to the Big Bend region. One of the city’s most famous eateries is the fantastic S Reata Restaurant (203 N. 5th St., 432/837-9232, www.reata.net, Mon.-Sat. 11:30am-2pm and 5pm-10pm, $12-42). Named for the iconic ranch depicted in the classic 1956 movie Giant, filmed in the area, this upscale cowboy cuisine with a West Texas flair even inspired a second location in Fort Worth. Start things off with a hot bowl of jalapeño cilantro soup, and proceed with any of the tantalizing menu items, from the renowned tenderloin tamales to the carne asada to the double pork chop stuffed with pears. Not nearly as upscale is Penny’s Diner (2407 E. Hwy. 90, 432/837-5711, open 24 hours, $6-15). Locals love the down-home diner atmosphere and the heapin’ helpings of traditional favorites like chicken-fried steak, pork chops, and grilled chicken. The breakfasts here are hearty and flavorful, and you can order any time of the day or night. For those seeking some beer and pub grub, head directly to Harry’s Tinaja (412 E. Holland Ave., 432/837-5060, daily noon-2am, $5-10). Although Harry’s is mainly a bar, it usually has a food trailer on-site (the Smokin’ Cuban has some of the tastiest food in town). Harry’s is known for its charming low-key atmosphere and extremely refreshing cold beer.
The best Tex-Mex in town is in an unassuming little house on the other side of the railroad tracks. Aptly named La Casita (1104 E. Ave. H, 432/837-2842, Mon.-Sat. 11am-8:30pm, $7-15), this no-frills eatery focuses its efforts on flavorful food—hearty and spicy salsa, perfectly seasoned verde sauce on the chicken enchiladas, crispy jam-packed beef tacos, and satisfying chicken quesadillas.
A great way to start the day is with a huge breakfast taco at the tiny Alicia’s Mexican Restaurant (708 E. Ave. G, 432/837-2802, daily 8am-3pm, $4-8). Stuff it full of eggs, potatoes, cheese, bacon, and veggies before heading out for a hike or back to your room for a nap.
An ideal place to accompany the crisp mountain morning air is Bread & Breakfast Bakery Cafe (113 W. Holland Ave., 432/837-9424, www.judysbreadandbreakfast.com, Mon.-Sat. 7am-2pm, Sun. 8am-noon, $5-11). Not surprisingly, pastries and coffee are the main draws here, but they’re extra tasty in a quaint location like this. The most popular item by far is the cinnamon rolls, but it’s worth saving some room for a fresh doughnut or three. If you’re looking to fuel up for a long trip, dare to order a big ol’ plate of biscuits and gravy; just be sure to grab a to-go coffee to get you through your most challenging endeavors.
Bread & Breakfast Bakery Cafe in downtown Alpine
If rustic casual is your style, consider the Antelope Lodge (2310 W. Hwy. 90, 432/837-2451, www.antelopelodge.com, cabins $60-90 d). Built in the late 1940s as part of the national “motor lodge” trend, this decidedly unmodern lodge revels in its historic charm. Cottages and guest rooms contain kitchenettes with two-burner stoves, mini refrigerators, and available microwaves and utensils (call in advance). Each cottage has a stone porch with weathered chairs for enjoying the cool mountain air.
For those in need of just the basics, the Highland Inn (1404 E. Hwy. 90, 432/837-5811, www.highlandinn.net, $65 d) offers simple and stark rooms with charmingly mismatched furniture. Directly across the road from Sul Ross State University, the Highland features a microwave and fridge in each room, along with Wi-Fi access and an outdoor pool.
The best option in this price range, however, is the comfy and casual S Maverick Inn (1200 E. Holland Ave., 432/837-0628, www.themaverickinn.com, $110 d). This former motor court received an extensive renovation with modern amenities like Wi-Fi service, flat-screen TVs, fancy linens, regional artwork, Saltillo-tiled floors, mini refrigerators, and microwaves.
For a truly memorable stay in Alpine, reserve a room or loft at the magnificent S Holland Hotel (209 W. Holland Ave., 432/837-3844, www.thehollandhoteltexas.com, $140-190). Built in 1912 for cattlemen and the occasional tourist, this impressive downtown hotel will charm you from the moment you enter the ornate front doors, where your room assignment awaits in an envelope (it’s taped to the door). There aren’t any standard rooms at the Holland—they range from tiny to sprawling—but you can get a sense of what’s available by previewing options on the hotel’s website. All rooms feature eclectic furnishings and colors, along with private bathrooms, refrigerators, and microwaves. Incidentally, free earplugs are available at the hotel office (open 8am-5pm) to help silence the trains that occasionally blast through town in the middle of the night.
A mountain getaway is often a good excuse to stay at a cozy B&B like the White House Inn (2003 Fort Davis Hwy., 432/837-1401, www.whitehouseinntexas.com, $89-139). The large house offers several rooms with fancy linens, cable TV, microwaves, refrigerators, stoves, and cooking utensils. The upstairs suite is worth considering for its privacy and access to a balcony—perfect for relaxing with a coffee in the cool, dry air. The inn also offers small cottages with kitchenettes.
For brochures, maps, and travel assistance, contact the Alpine Chamber of Commerce (106 N. 3rd St., 432/837-2326 or 800/561-3735, www.alpinetexas.com). To get a handle on what’s going on in town, pick up a copy of the Alpine Avalanche at one of the rack boxes throughout town or drop by the downtown office (118 N. 5th Street) to grab your own personal copy of this commendable community newspaper.