Palo Duro Canyon State Park
the legendary Cadillac Ranch.
The Panhandle region of Texas is rather desolate, but the cities that sprang up among the windswept plains are distinctive in their identities—independent and hardy, with a flair for the artistic.
Robust residents have forged a living off the land in this unforgiving climate for thousands of years, and despite the difficulties of dealing with snowy winters and 100°F summers, these proud Panhandlers are dedicated to maintaining their family ranches and agriculture-related businesses.
Historically, the Panhandle Plains have been home to these types of self-reliant people living off the land, from Native Americans to Spanish explorers to farmers and oilmen. Apaches ruled the region for several hundred years until the Comanches arrived in the 1700s. Other tribes (Kiowa, Southern Cheyenne, and Arapaho), collectively known as the Southern Plains Indians, occupied portions of the region until 1874, when the U.S. Army launched a “successful” campaign to permanently move them onto the reservations in present-day Oklahoma. With Native Americans no longer in the area, Hispanic sheepherders from New Mexico known as pastores arrived on the scene. Livestock roamed the open ranges of the Panhandle until the 1870s, when barbed wire was introduced to the region.
Soon after, two other significant advances—the windmill and the railroad—forever altered life in the area by promoting its settlement. Windmills tapped into underground aquifers for water and irrigation, while railroads provided farmers and ranchers with improved access to remote markets.
One of the region’s most important cultural contributions of the 20th century was Route 66, which traversed the Panhandle through Amarillo with cafés and motor lodges catering to travelers in search of adventure and opportunity in the 1940s and 1950s. The iconic Cadillac Ranch, a collection of classic cars buried hood-first in a field outside Amarillo, is a testament to the legacy of the Mother Road and a legendary contribution to Americana.
The Llano Estacado, an elevated ridge of ancient caprock in the western portion of the Panhandle, geographically defines much of the area. The most commonly held belief is that estacado translates from Spanish as “stockaded,” defining the steep rock walls at the edge of this enormous mesa. Its escarpment ridges, some dropping nearly 1,000 feet, create those namesake cliffs. The stunning Palo Duro Canyon near Amarillo along the edge of the Llano Estacado is one of Texas’s most magnificent physical features.
Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.
S Buddy Holly Center: This cultural hot spot in Lubbock showcases this native son’s brief life and significant contributions to rock music through distinctive memorabilia, including his signature horn-rimmed glasses (click here).
S American Wind Power Center: The unexpectedly compelling American Wind Power Center in Lubbock features more than 100 vintage windmills from across the world in a giant barn, with dozens more punctuate the surrounding grounds (click here).
S Cadillac Ranch: This bumper crop of 10 Cadillacs buried nose-down in a field west of Amarillo is one of the best photo ops in Texas, if not the country (click here).
S Palo Duro Canyon State Park: The stratified colors of America’s second-largest canyon are stunning, with sheer cliffs and rock towers displaying muted hues of red, yellow, and orange (click here).
S Frontier Texas!: At Abilene’s innovative history museum holograms and interactive technology showcase a realistic slice of life in the Panhandle Plains from 1780 to 1880 (click here).
S Fort Concho National Historic Landmark: Relive the life of a soldier in the late 1800s through nearly two dozen renovated and well-maintained barracks, stables, and officers’ quarters (click here).
This area of the state doesn’t draw a steady stream of visitors, but those who make the effort to see the region are rewarded with memorable vistas, compelling heritage, and uncommon adventures.
Plan on spending at least three or four days in the Panhandle, especially since it will take several hours to travel between cities. The topography isn’t as enchantingly diverse as it is in far West Texas, so instead of enjoying/enduring the long drive from points east, some visitors choose to fly to Lubbock or Amarillo to begin their High Plains escapade.
To experience the best the Panhandle has to offer, set aside at least two days for Amarillo-area adventure. Plan a day of hiking or biking in beautiful Palo Duro Canyon and an overnight in the park’s campground. Spend the next day or two exploring legendary Route 66 locales in nearby Amarillo and in the small towns east and west of the city just off I-40 (the Mother Road’s soulless replacement).
Plan to pass another day in Lubbock, the region’s economic and cultural hub. This is the only place you’ll ever have an opportunity to experience such diverse attractions as the Buddy Holly Center and the American Wind Power Center. Abilene and San Angelo are worth visiting for a day each if you have the time and interest in discovering Texas’s frontier heritage.
The occupied areas of the Panhandle Plains are spread apart, so the travel services here focus on specific cities as well as entire portions of the region. One of the offices offering statewide and regional data is the Texas Department of Transportation’s Texas Travel Information Center (9700 E. I-40, 800/452-9292, www.dot.state.tx.us, daily 8am-5pm). This extensive and accommodating office near downtown Amarillo has “professional travel counselors” on hand to welcome visitors and provide free literature, information, and suggestions for local and statewide excursions. Also advocating a wide-scale approach is the Texas Historical Commission’s Texas Plains Trail Region (806/747-1997, www.texasplainstrail.com). Although the program focuses primarily on heritage tourism attractions, the friendly folks at the Plains Trail Region office can provide a wealth of information about all types of area activities.
For individual cities, a good starting point is the helpful Amarillo Convention and Visitor Council (offices at the Bivins Mansion, 1000 S. Polk St., and the Amarillo Civic Center, 401 S. Buchanan St., 800/692-1338, www.visitamarillotx.com, Mon.-Fri. 9am-6pm, Sat. 10am-4pm, call about scaled-back winter hours). Drop by for city maps, brochures about area attractions, and assistance with planning an excursion along old Route 66.
To find out everything you’d ever need or want to know about visiting the Lubbock area, go to the Lubbock Convention & Visitors Bureau (6th floor of the downtown Wells Fargo Center at 1500 Broadway St., 806/747-5232, www.visitlubbock.org). Likewise, you’ll find travel literature and friendly folks in the restored historic train depot that now houses the Abilene Convention and Visitors Bureau (1101 N. 1st St., 325/676-2556, www.abilenevisitors.com, Mon.-Fri. 8:30am-5pm).
One of the state’s most impressive travel service offices is the remarkable San Angelo Chamber of Commerce Visitors Center (418 W. Ave. B, 800/375-1206, www.sanangelo.org, Mon.-Fri. 9am-5pm, Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. noon-4pm). Located in a facility on the banks of the scenic Concho River, the visitors center features enormous windows and cascading waterfalls along with helpful staff and bundles of brochures.
Driving to the Panhandle Plains from Dallas, Austin, or San Antonio isn’t very exciting. Unlike the majestic mesas and mountains greeting travelers to far West Texas, the Panhandle Plains are about as inspiring as their flat-sounding name implies. The drive from San Antonio to Lubbock is more than seven hours, and it’s almost two hours more from there to Amarillo. As a result, some travelers choose to take a cheap Southwest Airlines flight (around $100 each way from most major Texas cities) and rent a car to save time and gas money.
As the Panhandle’s largest city and economic hub, Lubbock is a good place to start your visit, especially since most of the region’s other major cities are only a few hours away. Book your flight to Lubbock International Airport (5401 N. Martin Luther King Blvd., 806/775-2035, www.flylia.com), northeast of the city, approximately 10 minutes from downtown. The airport offers service from American Eagle, United Express, and Southwest Airlines, and travelers can book reservations there with most of the major car rental companies. Lubbock’s cab services include City Cab (806/765-7474) and Yellow Cab (806/765-7777).
Those focusing their travels exclusively on Amarillo and Palo Duro Canyon should use Amarillo International Airport (10801 Airport Blvd., 806/335-1671, www.ci.amarillo.tx.us). Situated seven miles east of downtown, the airport hosts arrivals and departures from American Eagle, United Express, and Southwest Airlines, and car rental service through Avis (806/335-2313), Enterprise (806/335-9443), Hertz (806/335-2331), and National (806/335-2311). Amarillo’s cab companies include Bob & Sons Taxi Service (806/373-1171) and Yellow Checker Cab (806/374-8444).
The region’s smaller cities also provide airport and transportation service, even though connections are limited to Houston and Dallas. If you’re Abilene bound, consider flying to Abilene Regional Airport (2933 Airport Blvd., 325/676-6367, www.iflyabi.com), offering flights with American Eagle and car rentals from Avis, Enterprise, and Hertz. Cab service is available via Classic Cab (325/677-8294) and Abilene Yellow Cab (325/677-4334). For San Angelo travelers, there’s San Angelo Regional Airport (8618 Terminal Cir., 325/659-6409, www.sanangelotexas.us), providing service from American Eagle and car rentals through Avis, Budget, and Hertz. The city’s cab companies are Red Ball Taxi & Shuttle (325/942-8899) and Yellow Cab Co. (325/655-5555).
Lubbock (population 249,042) is distractingly flat. In fact, the lack of topography is a bit disconcerting—there should be a hill or a creekbed or some geographical feature somewhere in the city; instead, you can just see miles and miles of Texas. There’s nothing wrong with that; in fact, it’s an engaging and defining characteristic of Lubbock’s nature.
The ranching culture is ingrained in Lubbock residents, and they take pride in their hardworking, sensible heritage. Settlers began taking root here in the late 1800s but were occasionally displaced by the nasty, dust-storm-inducing winds. The hardy folks toughed it out.
Eventually a railroad arrived, and the city slowly emerged as the marketing center of the South Plains. By 1923, the Texas legislature authorized the establishment of Texas Technological College (now known as Texas Tech University), which went on to play a key role in establishing Lubbock’s identity.
Another character-defining aspect of Lubbock’s personality is its contribution to American popular music. Native son Buddy Holly helped revolutionize rock ’n’ roll in the late 1950s, and other influential Lubbock-area country/rock artists include Roy Orbison, Waylon Jennings, Mac Davis, and Joe Ely.
Still, it’s Texas Tech that makes locals the proudest, and their hometown academic institution brings worldly culture to the High Plains. Texas Tech has a healthy enrollment of nearly 33,000 students, and its agriculture and engineering programs continue to make a major impact on the economy and life of residents in the Panhandle and the entirety of West Texas.
At one point, Buddy Holly was the single most influential creative force in early rock ’n’ roll. Visitors will find a testament to this legacy at the fascinating Buddy Holly Center (1801 Crickets Ave., 806/767-2686, www.buddyhollycenter.org, Tues.-Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. 1pm-5pm, $8 adults, $6 seniors ages 60 and older, $5 children ages 7-17). Holly’s enormous impact on rock music is compounded by the fact that his professional career lasted merely 18 months. In that brief time, his distinct “Western bop” sound—a blend of country, blues, gospel, and bluegrass—had a major impact on rock legends, including the Beatles, the Rolling Stones, and Bruce Springsteen. Paul McCartney claims the Beatles meticulously studied Holly’s work and used it as a basis for their first hit song, “Love Me Do,” and Holly’s 1958 tour of England was a watershed moment for future British Invaders.
the Buddy Holly Center in downtown Lubbock
Holly and his band, the Crickets, developed an influential sound evident on classic hit songs such as “That’ll Be the Day,” “Oh Boy!,” “Peggy Sue,” “Maybe Baby,” and “Rave On.” Holly’s life came to a tragic end with other music legends Ritchie Valens and J. P. “Big Bopper” Richardson when their plane crashed in an Iowa cornfield on February 3, 1959, famously referred to as “the day the music died” by songwriter Don McLean.
These stories and more take center stage at the Buddy Holly Center, which showcases the Lubbock native’s brief life and significant career through informative exhibits, an enlightening film, and distinctive memorabilia (the signature horn-rimmed glasses found at his death scene are at once nostalgic and chilling). Other items, including childhood artwork, handwritten notes, and personal knickknacks, provide additional insight into this influential Lubbock musician whose noteworthy life was cut tragically short.
Aside from having a major city street renamed in his honor, Holly’s legacy is evident in several Lubbock locales. The Buddy Holly statue near the corner of Avenue Q and 8th Street (just past the entrance to the Lubbock Civic Center) is a lasting reminder of the city’s celebrated native son, and its surrounding Walk of Fame pays homage to other famous Lubbock-area musicians, including Roy Orbison, Sonny Curtis (a member of the Crickets), Waylon Jennings, Mac Davis, and Joe Ely.
Holly’s gravesite is also a popular attraction for die-hard fans. Just inside the entrance of the Lubbock Cemetery (at the east end of 31st Street), it contains admirers’ mementos and the original spelling of his last name, “Holley”—the e was inadvertently omitted on his first recording contract, and the mistake was somehow never corrected.
Who knew windmills could be so interesting? Apparently the owners of the unexpectedly compelling American Wind Power Center (1701 Canyon Lake Dr., 806/747-8734, www.windmill.com, Tues.-Sat. 10am-5pm and May-Sept. Sun. 2pm-5pm, $7.50 per person, $20 per family), who do a surprisingly good job of conveying the intrigue of many different kinds of wind-powered machines.
More than 100 historic and last-of-its-kind windmills from around the world reside in the center’s giant barn, and dozens more punctuate the surrounding grounds. They range from the enormous (25 feet in diameter) to the strange (two-pronged whirligigs) to the inventive (models used to power most Great Plains homes during the early 20th century). Dominating the entire scene is the massive 164-foot-tall Vestas Wind Turbine, a metal giant with three imposing rotating fins that generate electricity for the museum.
Adjacent to the center is the associated American Museum of Agriculture, offering hundreds of antique tractors, appliances, and equipment related to the region’s ranching heritage. The back room contains hundreds of tiny model tractors and vintage riding tractor toys. Visitors with kids are in luck—instead of being taunted by untouchable artifacts, kids are allowed to ride the mini tractor toys to test their future farming abilities.
The enormous Museum of Texas Tech University (3301 4th St., 806/742-2490, www.depts.ttu.edu/museumttu, Tues.-Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. 1pm-5pm, free) is far more remarkable than its name. In fact, while strolling through its multiple wings and impressive collections, it’s easy to forget you’re in a remote area of the Texas Panhandle.
Fascinating sculptures from Africa, colorful Latin American pottery, and rare pre-Columbian artwork transport visitors to other worlds. The museum’s collections contain more than three million objects, and the thousands on display represent the upper echelon of the visual arts and natural sciences.
The Panhandle region and the entire southwestern United States are well represented by exhibits featuring ancient dinosaur fossils from the area and galleries showcasing historic Western art. The museum also encompasses a remodeled planetarium, a natural science research laboratory, a public auditorium, and a sculpture court. Just a note: If you prefer experiencing museums at a leisurely pace and in a distraction-free environment, consider visiting on the weekend, when large groups of local schoolchildren aren’t set loose in the facility.
Though it’s seemingly modest in comparison, Lubbock Lake Landmark (N. Loop 289 and U.S. Hwy. 84 on Landmark Ln., 806/742-1116, www.depts.ttu.edu/museumttu, Tues.-Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. 1pm-5pm, free) showcases an aspect of history as significant as the artifact-rich Museum of Texas Tech by offering a window onto 12,000 years of the region’s past.
The landmark’s inspiring interpretive center puts the surrounding diverse geographic features—a rare sight in Lubbock—in full perspective. A spring-fed reservoir on the grounds has provided a source of life for plants, animals, and their associated human hunters for at least 12 millennia. The center walks visitors through the fascinating archaeological finds made during the past 75 years that document thousands of generations of humans, mammoth, bison, and even giant armadillo that habitually returned to the watering hole to sustain (and take) life.
A one-mile walking trail encircling the reservoir now known as Lubbock Lake provides context for this unique area. The lush green marshes and elevated river valley noticeably contrast with the surrounding High Plains’ overwhelmingly flat topography.
The National Ranching Heritage Center (3121 4th St., 806/742-0498, www.nrhc.ttu.edu, Mon.-Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. 1pm-5pm, free) is a 16-acre mostly outdoor site featuring 36 authentic yet relocated ranching structures. Spanning 200 years, these American ranch-related buildings run the gamut from ramshackle barn to opulent home. Also included on the grounds are windmills and a locomotive, blacksmith shop, school, and bunkhouse. Visitors can’t enter most structures, but several have open doors and gated windows offering views of period furnishings.
The small area of parkland known as Prairie Dog Town (inside Mackenzie Park, entrance at 4th Street and I-27, 806/775-2687, open year-round sunrise-sunset) isn’t as charming as it sounds. Don’t get too excited about seeing scores of cute little fellas romping around and eating treats right out of your hand. They’re definitely visible, and they are pretty cute, but aside from standing up on two legs and scanning the surrounding prairie, they don’t do much. They pop out of holes relatively far away from the viewing area—you can get a better look at them if you have binoculars or a telephoto camera lens.
The prairie dogs remain in this part of Lubbock thanks to the efforts of one man, who spared their cute little lives in the 1930s when a push was made to eradicate their overpopulation. Incidentally, they get their canine-influenced name from the little doglike barks they emit when danger—in this case, tourists—threaten on the prairie’s horizon.
The surrounding Mackenzie Park is a welcome respite from Lubbock’s flat environs, with hills and valleys offering an opportunity to experience actual topography. Also on the park’s grounds is a small amusement park called Joyland (open weekends spring-fall), a disc golf course, a real golf course, an amphitheater, and a sculpture garden.
Lubbock’s downtown has seen better days, but the city’s Depot Entertainment District (just off I-27 and 19th St.) is a lively collection of bars and clubs near the Buddy Holly Center that draws young professionals, Tech students, and even a few ranchers in search of rockabilly and ’ritas. The soul of the district is the venerable and beautifully restored 1930s Cactus Theater across from the historic Fort Worth to Denver Railroad Depot building, now serving as a portion of the Buddy Holly Center.
Make a point of dropping by the remarkable Cactus Theater (1812 Buddy Holly Ave., 806/762-3233, www.cactustheater.com). Ideally, you’ll be able to catch a show—check the website for scheduled performances—from live country and western acts (the Maines Brothers) to soulful singer-songwriters (Jerry Jeff Walker) to musicals and theatrical productions. The acoustics are amazing, and the wraparound caprock canyon mural is captivating. Next door is another noteworthy live music venue, the Blue Light (1808 Buddy Holly Ave., 806/749-5442, www.thebluelightlive.com), featuring Texas country and rock acts Tuesday-Saturday. Grab a frozen concoction or cold bottle of Lone Star at the adjoining Tom’s Daiquiri Place and settle in for a fine evening of High Plains-style entertainment.
Those seeking a mellower scene should visit La Diosa Cellars (901 17th St., 806/744-3600, www.ladiosacellars.com, closed Mon.), billing itself as the first and only winery inside the city limits. La Diosa (“the goddess”) offers wines by the glass, bottle, or case and is known for its bistro menu of tasty tapas, its coffee bar, and its gourmet desserts. Of note: Lubbock is primarily a dry city, so this is one of the few places in town you can purchase alcohol to go.
Level (1928 Buddy Holly Ave., 806/762-4466) is a nice alternative to the typical twangy bars in the area. The kids can mingle and dance to hip-hop, techno, and house DJs.
Held each April at the civic center, the popular Lubbock Arts Festival (806/744-2787) is a feast for the senses. Stroll among booths of regional, national, and international artists offering everything from Southwestern jewelry to colorful murals to stone sculptures. Grab a tasty yet politically incorrect Indian taco (a corn tostada with beans and rice) from the food court, listen to a chamber music trio, and delight in Lubbock’s arts scene.
One of the city’s most highly anticipated and well-attended annual events is the National Cowboy Symposium and Celebration (806/798-7825, www.cowboy.org). Held at the civic center each September, this uniquely Texas event celebrates Old West cowboys through storytelling, poetry readings, music, art, and participation from honest-to-goodness cowboys. Attend readings, panel discussions, and performances by scholars and genuine cowpokes, along with a chuckwagon cook-off, horse parade, and trail ride.
Lubbock is cowboy country, so the Western gear around here is genuine. A good starting point is the Branding Iron Cowboy Outfitters (3320 34th St., 866/312-0500, www.cowboy-outfitter.com), just south of the Texas Tech campus. This family-owned shop keeps things simple by focusing on quality Western brands and merchandise. Look for Stetson and Resistol hats (felt and straw), Justin and Tony Lama boots, and bunches of belt buckles. Another respected local Western shop is Boot City Inc. (6645 19th St., 806/797-8782, www.bootcity.com). West of town just outside the loop, Boot City specializes in boots (Tony Lama, Justin, Nocona, Anderson Bean, and Dan Post), cowboy hats, belts, buckles, and other Western apparel.
Some may call it junk, but others delight in the bric-a-brac and Americana crammed into Lubbock’s peerless Antique Mall (7907 W. 19th St., 806/796-2166, www.antiquemalloflubbock.com). Boasting 24,000 square feet of stuff, the Antique Mall peddles in nostalgia as much as (perhaps even more than) valuable objects. Texas Tech and Lubbock-related items offer a charming regional flair, and shoppers may find a treasure or two among the Depression-era glass and furniture, vintage drugstore/pharmacy collectibles, and historic advertising memorabilia.
Ask locals where to find the best Mexican food in town, and they’re not likely to suggest the bright, busy eateries packed with ravenous students near Texas Tech University. More likely, you’ll be directed to a satisfyingly authentic locale like S Montelongo’s (3021 Clovis Rd., 806/762-3068, daily 7am-8pm, $7-12), just northwest of downtown. The flavors at this unassuming family restaurant are incredible, particularly in the magnificent chicken mole, an exceptional dish featuring perhaps the best mole sauce in the Panhandle. Savor the rich yet delicate taste of the hearty sauce with its buttery nut base and accents of spicy pepper and bitter chocolate. The chicken is tender, and the rice and beans are elevated beyond mere side-item status. If you only eat one meal in Lubbock, make the effort to experience this exceptionally authentic item. Not quite as satisfying yet still very tasty is Garcia’s Mexican Restaurant (5604 Slide Rd., 806/792-0097, Mon.-Sat. 11am-9pm, Sun. 11am-2pm, $6-12). Located in a fairly new strip mall-esque building southwest of downtown, Garcia’s serves fresh Tex-Mex that’s consistently fulfilling. You can’t go wrong with any of the standards here, from fajitas and enchiladas to tacos and quesadillas.
Although Abuelo’s (4401 82nd St., 806/794-1762, www.abuelos.com, daily 11am-10pm, $6-19) is a chain, it’s well respected in these parts, and for good reason. The food here is far better than expected, and the atmosphere makes it even more recommendable. Abuelo’s is always packed, especially for happy hour and dinner, when local bands play outside on the patio and margaritas flow freely. Be sure to sample the seafood dishes here, the grilled shrimp in particular. Other popular menu items include the jalapeño-stuffed shrimp, the bacon-wrapped beef tenderloin, and the delectable dulce de leche cheesecake.
There aren’t many noteworthy restaurants in Lubbock’s Depot Entertainment District, but one is worth experiencing. Triple J Chophouse and Brew Co. (1807 Buddy Holly Ave., 806/771-6555, www.triplejchophouseandbrewco.com, Mon.-Sat. 11am-10pm, $11-34) is one of the city’s only brewpubs, and it serves several hearty steaks to accompany the refreshing handcrafted beers. Filet mignon is the specialty here, but don’t overlook the rib eye or prime rib. Alternate options include the smoked salmon or pork chop and grilled chicken.
Locals love Cagle Steaks (1212 Ave. K, 806/795-3879, www.caglesteaks.com, Mon.-Sat. 5:30pm-9pm, $9-37), a charmingly rustic spot with grade-A meat just west of town in an old house displaced by the railroad. Kick-start your meal with a “pasture pickle,” a cheesy steak finger with jalapeños, and continue with a heaping helping of barbecue (the ribs are spectacular) or one of the tender and delicious rib eye steaks, offered by thickness of the cut, at three-quarters of an inch, one inch (just the right size at about 16 ounces), or one and a quarter inches.
Another popular place for Lubbockites in search of quality steaks and meat is Las Brisas (4701 112th St., 806/687-6050, www.lasbrisassouthweststeakhouse.com, daily 4pm-10pm, $11-39), specializing in Southwestern specialties and prime cuts of beef including filet mignon, New York strip, pecan-crusted pork loin, blackened salmon, mesquite-smoked fajitas, chiles rellenos, grilled shrimp, and sea bass.
For barbecue, it doesn’t get much better than J&M Bar-B-Q (3605 34th St., 806/796-1164, www.jandmbar-b-q.com, daily 11am-9pm, also J&M Express, 7924 Slide Rd., 806/798-2525, $9-21). J&M is known for its perfectly smoked and seasoned brisket, jalapeño sausage, and ribs topped with a tangy and spicy sauce. Be sure to save room for cobbler or banana pudding.
On the heartier side is the Crafthouse Gastropub (3131 34th St., 806/687-1466, www.crafthousepub.com, Tues.-Sat. 11am-10pm, Sun. 10am-2pm, $6-18), where virtually every menu item is freshly made in-store daily. From breads to sauces to soups, pastas, chicken, sandwiches, and pork chops, Crafthouse is an ideal place to drop by for a satisfying and healthy lunch. The quality beer selection is known throughout Lubbock.
For a good ol’ fashioned burger, head to Buns Over Texas (3402 73rd St., 806/793-0012, Mon.-Sat. 11am-9pm, $5-10). This traditional burger joint serves exactly what you’d expect—hot, juicy fresh-ground burgers on sweet hand-toasted buns accompanied by crispy onion rings or deliciously gooey cheese fries. Wash it all down with a thick chocolate shake.
Affordable rooms abound in Lubbock, which tends to draw most of its out-of-towners for Texas Tech University-related activities (sporting events, alumni gatherings, commencement ceremonies, etc.). Those looking for a cheap and consistent place to stay near campus often go with the no-frills Super 8 (501 Ave. Q, 806/762-8726, www.super8.com, $71 d), featuring a free continental breakfast, free Internet access, and refrigerators in every room. To get the most bang for your buck, consider the popular and amenity-packed Guesthouse Inn (3815 21st St., 806/791-0433, $79 d), which strives for a homey atmosphere by offering suites with kitchenettes, living rooms with reading libraries, a free continental breakfast, and complimentary wireless Internet access, all just six blocks away from the Tech campus.
If you’re looking to stay downtown within walking distance of the many civic center activities, book your room at the MCM Elegante (801 Ave. Q, 806/763-1200, www.mcmelegantelubbock.com, $99 d). This regional chain offers rooms facing an open interior atrium featuring a large fountain in the center. The hotel rate includes free Internet access and a fitness room, swimming pool, whirlpool, and sauna.
Farther outside of town is the independently owned and very recommendable S Ashmore Inn & Suites (4019 S. Loop 289, 806/785-0060, www.ashmoreinn.com, $99 d). Nothing here is over-the-top, but the service and amenities are better than expected, including spacious rooms with free Internet access, microwaves, and refrigerators, along with a free continental breakfast, complimentary cocktails (Mon.-Thurs. 5:30pm-7pm), an outdoor pool, and an exercise room and hot tub.
Consider spending a little extra money for one of the finest accommodations in town, the amenity-filled S Arbor Inn & Suites (5310 Englewood Ave., 806/744-1763, www.arborinnandsuites.com, $109 d). This memorable locale offers large rooms with full kitchens, a free breakfast, and a late-day treat of fresh-baked cookies with lemonade and iced tea (daily 4pm-9pm). Other unexpected pleasantries include complimentary cold bottled water and a generous “owner’s reception” every Tuesday 5:30pm-7pm featuring dinner, beverages (beer, wine, iced tea, or lemonade), and dessert.
Farther south of town is the fancy Embassy Suites (5215 S. Loop 289, 806/771-7000, www.embassysuites.com, $159 d), featuring a Tuscan-style atrium with tropical plants and pathways meandering around a koi pond and miniature waterfalls. The hotel provides free wireless Internet access, complimentary nightly manager’s receptions with drinks and food, a free hot breakfast, an exercise room, and a heated indoor pool. Just down the road is the commendable Fairfield Inn (4007 S. Loop 289, 806/795-1288, www.marriott.com, $139 d). Catering primarily to business travelers, the Fairfield features free Internet access as well as a spiffy indoor pool and spa and a free continental breakfast.
Lubbockites love Buffalo Springs Lake (9999 High Meadow Rd., 806/747-3353, www.buffalospringslake.net, $12-24), a recreation area eight miles southeast of town with rare commodities—water, grass, and trees. The camping options here range from sites with paved pads and water access to spots with electric hookups to plain ol’ tent sites. All the campgrounds have trees, and the tent area features grass along the water’s edge. Other Buffalo Springs activities include a golf course, hike and bike trails, an amphitheater, a party house, and pavilions. The campground takes a limited number of reservations and requires a three-night minimum stay.
RVers return regularly to the popular Lubbock RV Park (4811 N. I-27, 806/747-2366, www.lubbockrvpark.com, $24), offering plenty of shade trees, an outdoor pool, laundry facilities, and showers.
To get a handle on all the travelers’ services available in Lubbock, including brochures, maps, pamphlets, and other literature, drop by the Lubbock Convention & Visitors Bureau, on the 6th floor of the downtown Wells Fargo Center (1500 Broadway St., 806/747-5232, www.visitlubbock.org).
For those traveling to Lubbock by air, the Lubbock International Airport (5401 N. Martin Luther King Blvd., 806/775-2035, www.flylia.com) is about 10 minutes from downtown just northeast of the city. The airport offers service from American Eagle, Continental Express, and Southwest Airlines. Once there, ground transportation is available from most of the major car rental companies and Lubbock’s cab services, including City Cab (806/765-7474) and Yellow Cab (806/765-7777).
Amarillo (population 198,645) is the most compelling destination in the Panhandle because it offers two distinctly uncommon resources—Palo Duro Canyon and Route 66. Both involve some extra driving and exploring, but it’s well worth the effort to experience these uniquely Texas attractions.
Amarillo’s cultural heritage reflects a variety of influences: Native Americans, Spanish conquistadors, buffalo hunters, American settlers, cowboys, and the railroad. This combination of the Old and New West provides a captivating draw to this remote region of the state.
The city’s name originates from a large nearby playa (seasonal lake) and creek referred to as amarillo, Spanish for yellow, by New Mexican traders and shepherds, describing the color of the soil. Though Native American tribes and Spanish explorers had traversed the area for thousands of years, the lack of a consistent water source prevented permanent settlements.
That changed in the late 1800s, when windmill-powered wells reached the deep water table, and particularly when the Fort Worth and Denver City Railway arrived in 1887, resulting in freight service to Amarillo and its subsequent status as a cattle-marketing center. Hundreds of herds from ranches in the Panhandle, South Plains, and eastern New Mexico were driven and corralled in holding pens near the railroad tracks for shipment to meatpacking centers in the Midwest and the eastern United States.
In the late teens and early 1920s, Amarillo became a hotbed for the petrochemical industry when gas and oil were discovered in nearby fields, resulting in a mini boom of oil refineries and oil-shipping facilities. The discovery of the helium-rich Cliffside gas field in 1928 led to the establishment of the United States Helium Plant.
By the 1930s, cross-country automobile travel kicked into high gear thanks to the newly established transcontinental highways, most notably the famed Route 66. Amarillo represented the Mother Road’s only urban outpost between Oklahoma City and Albuquerque, and the city’s unique blend of fiery, friendly folks endeared many travelers to its rich pioneer spirit and independence. Gas stations, motor lodges, and dance halls kept travelers served and entertained while passing through the Panhandle’s largest city.
Throughout the remainder of the 20th century, Amarillo cemented its reputation as an economic hub for the petroleum, cattle, and agricultural industries (grain storage, processing, and feed). Though the city boasts several tourism-related attractions, including the iconic Cadillac Ranch just west of town, it’s perhaps best known as the starting point for ventures beyond city limits to the alluringly desolate canyons and plains.
Despite being hundreds of miles from nowhere, Amarillo has an artistic side that sets it apart from other cities in faraway areas of Texas and the United States. Cadillac Ranch and the Helium Monument are must-sees for pop culture enthusiasts, and the city’s cowboy heritage is on full display at the American Quarter Horse Museum. Incidentally, while you’re driving around town, keep an eye out for colorful fiberglass versions of this trusty steed. Hoof Prints of the American Quarter Horse is a city-wide public art display featuring more than 75 replicas of these horses, each painted or decorated by a local artist and displayed as a tribute to this animal integral to Amarillo’s heritage and culture.
One of the premier photo ops in Texas, Cadillac Ranch (approx. 10 miles west of downtown Amarillo between exits 60 and 62—exit Arnot Rd. on the south side of I-40) is a permanent art installation of 10 Cadillacs buried nose-down in a field. This bumper crop was originally planted in 1974 but relocated farther west 23 years later due to encroaching development. The cars, representing the golden age of American automobiles (1949-1963) were positioned at the same angle as the pyramids in Egypt.
The 10 Cadillacs are covered with thick layers of paint and graffiti, a practice that’s encouraged. At any given time, the cars may be painted in different colors or emblazoned with messages and signatures. To get there, park your car along the brim of the freeway and walk the well-worn path to the monument (open all hours). Be sure to bring a camera and/or a can of spray paint to document your visit.
Horses are serious business in cowboy country, and nowhere else is this more apparent than at the American Quarter Horse Heritage Center & Museum (2601 E. I-40, 806/376-5181, www.aqha.com, year-round Mon.-Sat. 9am-5pm, Memorial Day-Labor Day Sun. noon-5pm, $7 adults, $6 seniors, $3 children ages 6-18). This large and intriguing museum showcases the history and culture related to quarter horses, the country’s most popular breed, revered for its skills on the ranch and its performance in rodeos. Museum visitors will learn everything they ever wanted to know about quarter horses through ranching and racing artifacts, interesting video clips, and interactive exhibits. More than 1,000 objects depict the breed’s rise to prominence in racing and recreation throughout the Americas and Europe, while art and photo galleries highlight its exquisite beauty. The museum’s Grand Hall, an enormous area marked by an oversized medallion and hearty stone and timber columns, honors the people who shaped the quarter horse over the past several centuries. While at the museum, be sure to inquire about arena demonstrations featuring these exquisite equines in action.
Families will love the delightful Don Harrington Discovery Center (1200 Streit Dr., 806/355-9547, www.discoverycenteramarillo.org, Tues.-Sat. 9:30am-4:30pm, Sun. noon-4:30pm, $11 adults, $8 seniors and students ages 3-12). Science is the main attraction here, with dozens of fascinating exhibits and hands-on activities conveying the significance of biology, weather, and physics, to name a few. The center also features the region’s only aquarium and planetarium, and an intriguing helium technology exhibit. Speaking of helium, the museum is home to the renowned Helium Monument, a four-pronged stainless-steel time column dedicated to the natural element found in great quantities near Amarillo. Three of the six-story-tall monument’s columns form a tripod with four dangling spheres representing helium’s molecular structure. Each column contains time capsules corresponding to natural resources to be opened 25, 50, 100, and 1,000 years from 1968, the year the monument was erected.
If you have a few hours to spare while in town, make a point of stopping by the Amarillo Museum of Art (2200 S. Van Buren St., 806/371-5050, www.amarilloart.org, Tues.-Fri. 10am-5pm, Sun. 1pm-5pm, free). On the campus of Amarillo College, the museum contains a worthy collection of paintings, photographs, prints, and sculptures representing a broad range of cultures and eras. The museum initially focused on early American Modernist paintings (four Georgia O’Keeffe watercolors represent this style), but it has since expanded to include centuries-old European paintings and an impressive collection of Asian art, including Buddhist and Hindu pieces from 200 BC to Khmer sculpture from the 1300s.
Old Route 66 has a distinctive urban presence in Amarillo, with its art deco-themed streetscapes and awnings of Spanish tile offering an endearing nostalgic charm compared to today’s bland strip centers. For a true sense of the Mother Road’s legacy, however, venture to the smaller Panhandle communities, where you’ll discover authentic diners providing a welcome respite from franchise restaurant chains, and motor courts’ neon signs crackling vacancy notices without promoting free Wi-Fi or announcing corporate seminars.
You’ll find most of the historic small-town Route 66 buildings east of Amarillo, just off the 100-mile stretch of I-40 to the Oklahoma border. An essential stop is the city of McLean, home of the Texas Old Route 66 and Devil’s Rope Museums (100 Kingsley St., 806/779-2225, www.barbwiremuseum.com, Mar. 1-Nov. 1 Tues.-Sat. 10am-4pm, free). Though the barbed wire (aka “devil’s rope”) portion of the building is intriguing, the Texas Old Route 66 Museum offers a fascinating glimpse into the not-too-distant past, with vintage road signs, artwork from tourist traps—the enormous metal rattlesnake salvaged from the Regal Reptile Ranch is particularly amusing—and hundreds of mementos and souvenirs from the golden age of automobile travel. While in McLean, be sure to snap a few photos of the classic 1928 cottage-style Phillips 66 station on old Route 66 at the edge of town (westbound on Old Route 66, two blocks west of Main St.).
Just east of McLean is Shamrock, home of Texas’s most impressive Route 66 building. The U-Drop Inn and Conoco Station (1242 N. Main St., 806/256-2516, www.shamrockedc.org) is a remarkable 1936 art deco landmark with a steeple-like spire that advertised food, gas, and lodging—three essential elements for Route 66 travelers. Refurbished to its original glory, this building, which inspired Ramone’s detailing shop in Disney’s animated Cars movie, now houses the Shamrock Chamber of Commerce.
Shamrock’s U-Drop Inn and Conoco Station
West of Amarillo, the small town of Vega beckons travelers to the classic 1940s-era Vega Motel (1005 Vega Blvd., aka Old Route 66), which is no longer in operation but still welcomes curiosity seekers. The nearby Dot’s Mini Museum (one block north of Old Route 66, 806/267-2828, free) isn’t worth planning a trip around, but is worth a quick stop to see the “boot tree” and Route 66 artifacts (if it’s open).
Farther west on I-40 lies Adrian, another little town that time forgot. Its main Mother Road icon is the MidPoint Café (on the south side of Vega Blvd., 866/538-6380, www.route66midpointcafe.com, daily 8:30am-4pm, $7-12), named for its location on Route 66 midway between Chicago and Los Angeles (each 1,139 miles away). The MidPoint Café is known for its delectable homemade pies (try the blueberry) and enormous hamburgers, but the best option on a chilly afternoon is a steaming bowl of hearty beef stew. Be sure to check out the Route 66-themed gift shop housed in the attached original café building, and don’t forget to snap a photo in front of the famous MidPoint sign across the street.
The end of the road for Route 66 in Texas is Glenrio, an abandoned community straddling the Texas-New Mexico border. You won’t find empty saloons or bouncing tumbleweeds here, but it’s a compelling place to get out of your car and explore. Check out the old gas station and post office buildings, and be sure to mosey by the vacant structure with a broken sign still announcing Last Motel in Texas on one side and First Motel in Texas on the other.
These communities are far removed from their heyday on Route 66, which once beckoned Americans with adventure and new beginnings around every bend of the highway. This sentiment was perhaps best captured by John Steinbeck in his classic 1939 novel The Grapes of Wrath in the passage, “They come into 66 from the tributary side roads, from the wagon tracks and the rutted country roads. 66 is the mother road, the road of flight.”
If you’re in town on a Tuesday, be sure to experience the Amarillo Livestock Auction (100 S. Manhattan St., 806/373-7464, www.amarillolivestockauction.com, auctions typically begin at 10am). This is the real deal—steers and heifers are corralled into the auction ring and bid on by genuine cowboys and ranch owners. There’s a palpable excitement to the proceedings, as hundreds of cattle trade hands while prospective bidders gauge the scene. By the end of the year, more than 100,000 head of cattle will have been sold at the facility.
Amarillo’s nightlife scene is relatively generic, with the exception of a handful of venues west of downtown on 6th Avenue, formerly Route 66. This stretch of road has some vacant pockets, but the areas of activity, including more than 100 independently owned antiques shops, restaurants, and memorable bars, are housed in charming art deco buildings on quaint cobblestone sidewalks. The most famous of the bunch is the spectacular Golden Light Cafe and Cantina (2908 W. 6th Ave., 806/374-9237, www.goldenlightcafe.com). This unassuming spot, built in 1946 and featuring a modest sign over the door that appears to have inspired the Hard Rock Café logo, stages live country and blues acts every weekend in a laid-back, casual environment (not surprisingly, actor Matthew McConaughey has been spied here). Returning acts include Stoney LaRue, Macon Grayson, and Cooter Graw. The cover charge is typically $5. Incidentally, the Golden Light runs a popular restaurant serving tasty down-home favorites like chicken-fried steak, burgers, and pork chops.
Another venerable venue on America’s Main Street is the Cattleman’s Club (3801 E. Amarillo Blvd., 806/383-9053), a classic country and western bar featuring live music and cold beer. The lonesome sounds of twangy slide guitars provide an ideal accompaniment for the dark and low-key scene at Cattleman’s, where you can kick back with a Lone Star and let your troubles mosey away. Not quite as traditional yet equally intriguing is the newfangled The 806 (2812 W. 6th Ave., 806/322-1806, www.the806.com), a roadside café for the current generation. Named for the Panhandle’s area code, this coffeehouse is a hotbed for Amarillo’s wireless laptop crowd, who tap away while sipping on strong java drinks and listening to open mic acts in the shadow of avant-garde artwork.
With the colorful cliff walls of Palo Duro Canyon State Park just south of the city serving as a picturesque backdrop, Texas (806/655-2181, www.texas-show.com, June-Aug. Tues.-Sat.) depicts the historical romance of the Old West and Texas’s 19th-century settlement years. Fancy lights and sound effects, along with traditional costumes, dancing, and music, tell the popular story to rapt audiences each summer. A barbecue dinner is served 6pm-8pm before each show.
Drawing participants from Texas, New Mexico, and Oklahoma, the Tri-State Fair (www.tristatefair.com, 806/376-7767) offers late-summer fun (mid-Sept. in these parts) for area folks, with traditional activities such as rodeo and livestock shows, farming and ranching exhibits, and food and crafts booths.
This popular event, held most years in November at the city’s civic center, features the country’s finals competition for rodeo cowboys over the age of 40. Despite the “old-timers” moniker, these dudes can still move quickly while riding and roping.
Amarillo’s shopping scene is particularly noteworthy for its kitschy antiques shops occupying charming historic retail stores along old Route 66. Since the city is entrenched in the agribusiness of the Old West, it’s also a great place to find authentic boots, hats, and other Western gear.
For a truly distinctive shopping experience, head on down to old Route 66 (now 6th Avenue, but referred to as 6th Street by locals) just west of downtown. Though some of the original charm has been “modernized,” bulldozed, or abandoned, there are several pockets of America’s Main Street offering a time warp to the road’s busy heyday. The best stretch is between Georgia and Western Streets, where shoppers will encounter bright storefronts and cheery display windows in historic retail buildings, cafés, and service stations. One of the premier antiques stores in the area is Texas Ivy Antiques (3511 W. 6th Ave., 806/373-1427), located in a quaint 1920s home. Specialties here include glassware, restaurant items, linens, toys, and retro furniture.
Antiques shops are by no means interchangeable, but the rotating nature of the stock makes it difficult to categorize them individually by content. The Sixth Street Antique Mall (2715 W. 6th Ave., 806/374-0459) has been in business for a considerable amount of time, rendering it recommendable.
Although most of its bustling antiques booths are gone, it’s still worth dropping by the legendary The Nat Antiques (604 S. Georgia St., 806/236-6482, www.thenatroute66.com) for a glimpse of history and some vintage volumes at the bookstore. The building opened as a natatorium (indoor swimming pool) in 1922 and was soon after converted into a “dine and dance palace,” with a maple dance floor constructed over the pool. The Nat now serves primarily as a special-event venue with a modest yet interesting collection of books for sale.
Amarillo is known for its quality Western wear stores, particularly its custom boot makers and abundance of cowboy hats and apparel. One of the legendary locales in town for exquisite custom-made boots is Western Leather Craft Boot (1950 Civic Cir., 806/355-0174). Specializing in top-notch working and dress boots for nearly a century, Western Leather outfits locals and visitors with work boots, art boots, wingtips, and flower inlays.
Other stores in town offer similar products (hats, leather goods, jeans, snap-button shirts, buckles, and other accessories) in less-inspiring environs. Look for this cowboy gear with lower prices at Los Tres Vaqueros Western (1105 S. Grand St., 806/374-0000), Horse & Rider (1805 S. Lakeside Dr., 806/352-5544, www.saddlediscounter.com), and Cavender’s Boot City (7920 W. I-40, 806/358-1400).
If you’re downtown (or even if you aren’t) and craving a quality Mexican meal, head directly to Acapulco (800 S. Polk St., 806/373-8889, www.acapulcomexicanrestaurant.net, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-2am, $7-14). In a city far, far away from the Mexican border/Acapulco, this restaurant does it right, with flavorful combos in a lively and relaxed urban atmosphere. The margaritas and mojitos are tasty, and the Tex-Mex is far above average. If you’re feeling adventurous, order a regional specialty like the barbacoa tacos or the West Texas-style chiles rellenos, with mild breaded peppers and creamy white cheese.
the Acapulco restaurant
Locals satisfy their Tex-Mex cravings at the consistently reliable Jorge’s Tacos Garcia Mexican Cafe (1100 S. Ross St., 806/371-0411, Mon.-Sat. 10:30am-10pm, Sun. 10:30am-3:30pm, $8-18). All the traditional favorites are here, from enchiladas to soft and crispy beef tacos to cheesy quesadillas. Jorge’s margaritas and spicy salsa with chips are an ideal way to start your meal.
For a more traditional Mexican meal, head to El Bracero (3303 Bell St., 806/355-0889, daily 11am-9pm, $9-22). Meat is the main draw here, featured in exquisite dishes such as the tender cabrito (goat), tasty quail, and seasoned lamb chops. The seafood dishes are highly recommended, and be sure to save room for the velvety cinnamon-tinged flan.
S The Big Texan (7701 I-40 E., 800/657-7177, www.bigtexan.com, daily 7am-10:30pm, $11-38) is a must, even if you don’t plan to eat the 72-ounce steak, free of charge if you can consume the entire placemat-size slab. It’s a mighty challenge befitting of the restaurant’s name, but before you tuck that napkin in your collar, be aware of a few minor details—you have to eat this mega meal, side dishes and all, in less than an hour. A few dozen hearty souls attempt the feat each month; of those, one or two earn the distinction of devouring 72 ounces of beef. The Big Texan’s decor is perfectly kitschy—hokey cowboy themes and faux rustic timber—and the food is quite edible, uncommon for such a touristy place. Stick with the basics (a rib eye with baked potato or a big bowl of chili), and be sure to browse the enormous gift shop afterward.
The Big Texan is an iconic steakhouse on Old Route 66.
Amarillo’s other legendary steak house is the Stockyard Cafe (100 S. Manhattan St., 806/373-7999, Mon.-Sat. 6am-2:30pm, Fri. 5pm-9:30pm, $8-24). If you’ve ever considered ordering steak and eggs for breakfast, this is the place to do it. Located adjacent to the livestock auction warehouse (the beef does taste very fresh), the Stockyard Cafe’s booths are packed most mornings with hungry workers, primarily farmers and truckers enjoying heaping helpings of bacon, huevos rancheros, flapjacks, and steaming mugs of bland coffee. The sirloin is a popular lunch item, and the banana pudding is a must.
Most locals will tell you the best barbecue in town is at Tyler’s Barbeque (2014 Paramount Blvd., 806/331-2271, www.tylersbarbeque.com, Tues.-Fri. 11am-7:30pm, Sat. 11am-6pm, $8-18). This crowded homegrown establishment is best known for its spectacular brisket, but several other menu items are also worth sampling, including the pork ribs, cheeseburger, and sausage.
If you’re staying downtown, it’s well worth making the short walk to Crush Wine Bar and Deli (701 S. Polk St., 806/418-2011, www.crushdeli.com, Mon.-Sat 11am-9pm, $9-19). Crush offers a refreshingly contemporary alternative to the many traditional steak houses and chicken shacks in Amarillo. The beer and wine options are diverse and local, and the cuisine is a notch above what you’d expect. The pork chop with accompanying poblano cream sauce and seasoned veggies is delicious, and the shepherd’s pie is quite commendable.
Virtually all of Amarillo’s decent hotels are chains located on I-40 that fall into the moderately affordable category. Unfortunately, most of the interesting historic hotels fell victim to the wrecking ball or are too run-down to recommend. The good news? The acceptable generic options are all within five minutes of the city’s main attractions.
If you don’t mind a little wear and tear with your Texas kitsch, book a room at The Big Texan Hotel (7701 I-40 E., 806/372-5000, www.bigtexan.com/motel, $89 d). This is not a place for those seeking sleek, new amenities, but it’s certainly a memorable experience, with its Old West-themed facades, Texas-shaped outdoor pool, faux cowhide bedspreads, and Texas flag shower curtains. It’s Texas to the max. Far less interesting yet much more modern is Baymont Inn & Suites (3411 I-40 W., 806/356-6800, www.baymontinns.com, $62 d), offering free breakfast, a fitness center, free Internet access, and an outdoor pool. Another fine option is Best Western (1610 S. Coulter St., 806/358-7861, www.bestwestern.com, $112 d), featuring large rooms with free Internet access, an indoor pool, and a fitness center and spa.
Slightly more expensive yet worth the extra money is the independently owned Ashmore Inn & Suites (2301 I-40 E., 806/374-0033, www.ashmoresuites.com, $119 d). The Ashmore features a free continental breakfast, a complimentary happy hour (free booze and wine Mon.-Thurs.), microwaves, refrigerators, Internet access, an indoor pool, a Jacuzzi, and a fitness center.
One of the newest additions to Amarillo’s hotel scene—and the first located in the historic downtown business district—is the S Courtyard Amarillo Downtown (724 S. Polk St., 806/553-4500, www.marriott.com, $150 d). Occupying the historic (1927) Fisk Building, the hotel offers free wireless Internet service, a restaurant (breakfast is not included in the room rate), a bar, a free parking garage, a 24-hour business center, and even a concierge. The rooms are unexpectedly stylish with modern flairs around every corner, and the hotel is within walking distance from several top-notch restaurants.
There’s really only one worthwhile place to camp in the Amarillo area (or even the Panhandle): Palo Duro Canyon State Park (11450 Park Rd. 5, 806/488-2227, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, $5 admission). About 15 miles south of Amarillo near the town of Canyon, Palo Duro is a true sight to behold. The park offers nearly 80 campsites ($12 nightly, $24 for sites with water and electric). If you plan ahead, you can snag a prized cabin—only seven are available, so they fill up quickly. Three of the cabins have two rooms ($100-125 nightly) and include two single beds and a queen bed, with linens and towels furnished. The park’s four limited-service facilities ($60 nightly) contain two twin beds and a table and chairs, but no towels or linens.
For the RV crowd, the most popular option is Amarillo Ranch RV Park (1414 Sunrise Dr., 806/373-4962, www.amarillorvranch.com, $30), featuring an indoor heated pool, sauna, and hot tub, free coffee and doughnuts, and a private park.
The Texas Department of Transportation’s Texas Travel Information Center (9700 E. I-40, 800/452-9292, www.dot.state.tx.us, daily 8am-5pm) near downtown Amarillo provides free literature, information, and suggestions for local and statewide excursions. For a more city-specific approach, head to the Amarillo Convention and Visitor Council (Bivins Mansion, 1000 S. Polk St., and the Amarillo Civic Center, 401 S. Buchanan St., 800/692-1338, www.visitamarillotx.com, Mon.-Fri. 9am-6pm, Sat.-Sun. 10am-4pm, call about scaled-back winter hours) for maps, brochures about area attractions, and assistance with planning an excursion on Route 66.
Amarillo International Airport (10801 Airport Blvd., 806/335-1671, www.ci.amarillo.tx.us) is seven miles east of downtown and offers flights on American Eagle and Southwest Airlines. Car rental service is available from Avis (806/335-2313), Enterprise (806/335-9443), Hertz (806/335-2331), and National (806/335-2311). Amarillo’s cab companies include Bob & Sons Taxi Service (806/373-1171) and Yellow Checker Cab (806/374-8444).
Just 20 miles south of Amarillo, Canyon (population 14,887) is home to Palo Duro Canyon State Park, the most fascinating attraction in the Panhandle. The town’s enormous historical museum is also notable, both for its impressive collection of Western art and artifacts and its striking art deco facility.
America’s second-largest canyon is an absolute must. Palo Duro Canyon State Park (11450 Park Rd. 5, 806/488-2227, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, $5 ages 13 and older) offers colorful and topographical magnificence compared to the stark, level plains above. Though it’s not quite as grand as its Arizona relative, Palo Duro (Spanish for “hard wood”; namely, the abundant mesquite and juniper trees) features a vast expanse of colorful soil and spectacular geographic formations. The stratified colors are particularly intriguing, with sheer cliffs, rock towers, and canyon walls displaying muted hues of red, yellow, and orange exposed by erosion from a tributary of the Red River and the ubiquitous High Plains winds.
Palo Duro Canyon State Park
Visitors can experience Palo Duro’s topographic splendor by foot, bike, car, or horse year-round. The park’s 18,000 acres offer a topographical getaway unlike any other in the Lone Star State. In addition to hiking and biking, Palo Duro visitors enjoy picnicking and camping, wagon rides, and campfire breakfasts, along with the park’s souvenir shop, interpretive center, and amphitheater.
People have inhabited Palo Duro Canyon for nearly 12,000 years, including the Folsom and Clovis groups who hunted mammoth and giant bison. The area was later occupied by Apaches, Comanches, and Kiowas who sought out the water and animals that gathered at its watering holes.
Early Spanish explorers are credited with “discovering” the canyon and providing its name; however, it wasn’t until 1852 that an American settler first set eyes on its colorful walls. Two decades later, the canyon was a battle site during the Red River War with Native American tribes. Private owners deeded the property to the state in 1933, and for several years afterward, the Civilian Conservation Corps developed it by building road access to the canyon floor, cabins, shelters, the visitors center, and the park headquarters.
The best place to start your Palo Duro adventure is the park’s visitors center. Perched on the upper rim of the canyon, the building is one of several constructed by the CCC and contains an interesting museum with exhibits detailing the canyon’s geographic and cultural history, as well as a store with books and gifts.
The real fun begins as soon as you descend from the flat upper environs to the otherworldly scene below the tabletop surface. A paved road offers an initial glimpse of the canyon’s colorful rock formations and rugged beauty, but the real adventure awaits off the asphalt, where you can get up close views of bizarre and intriguing cacti, wildflowers, and wildlife (primarily lizards and snakes).
Hikers should make a point of taking the Lighthouse Trail (maps are available at the visitors center—the trailhead is marked on the main road). The three-mile-long route is perfect for a morning or afternoon hike, complete with interpretive panels and mesmerizing views, and culminating with a close-up look at the Lighthouse, the park’s distinctive and oft-photographed rock tower. Plan to take a couple hours getting there through scenic surroundings along a rocky and sandy trail. Disregard the plastic strips at the end of the trail, and follow the dirt path upward to the lighthouse for spectacular panoramic views of the canyon and surrounding countryside. Be sure to carry a hydration pack or bring a gallon of water—it’s always hotter in the canyon.
Mountain bikers have several worthy options to choose from, most notably the Capitol Peak Mountain Biking Trail (recommended) and the Givens, Spicer and Lowry Running Trail, a law firm-sounding yet immensely picturesque four-mile loop throughout the park. Both feature rugged terrain—plenty of loose rock, sand-filled holes, and narrow streambeds—so be sure to keep your eyes in front of you despite the irresistible urge to marvel at the spectacular natural surrounding scenery.
Many visitors choose to go old-school (in Palo Duro’s case, Spanish explorers and cowboy settlers) by experiencing the canyon on horseback. The Old West Stables, located within the canyon, will take you on a guided tour to Timber Creek Canyon and the park’s signature lighthouse tower. To make the required reservations, call 806/488-2180.
It’s fitting that Texas’s largest history museum is just a few miles down the road from the enormity of Palo Duro Canyon. The Panhandle-Plains Historical Museum (2503 4th Ave., 806/651-2244, www.panhandleplains.com, summer Mon.-Sat. 9am-6pm, Sun. 1pm-6pm, winter Mon.-Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. 1pm-6pm, $10 adults, $9 seniors, $5 children ages 4-12) boasts “more than 500 million years of history across a 26,000 square mile expanse of the Panhandle-Plains.” Indeed, the museum offers a far-reaching collection of diverse heritage-related exhibits, from dinosaurs to Native American culture to pioneers and petroleum. Science and art are also well represented, with displays focusing on archaeology, geology, and Southwestern art.
Particularly memorable exhibits include People of the Plains, showcasing ancient tribe members’ use of the buffalo and an interactive pioneer home, a paleontology display featuring an impressive collection of 200-million-year-old fossils found in the Amarillo area (including a six-foot-long carnivorous amphibian), and an oil exhibit highlighting the importance of petroleum to the Panhandle.
There aren’t many places to grab a craft brew and quality cuisine in Canyon. Fortunately, both are on the menu at the surprisingly impressive Imperial Taproom (410 15th St., 806/452-8004, www.imperialtaproom.com, Tues.-Sat. 11am-10pm, Sun. 11am-3pm, $8-18). Start with a wheat beer or IPA on tap from Amarillo’s Long Wooden Spoon Brewing. Pair it with a brisket grilled cheese; better yet, order a bleu cheese half-pound burger to fuel up for a long hike at Palo Duro Canyon.
Tasty brews and food are on the menu at Imperial Taproom.
To find out more about food and lodging options in Canyon, contact the Canyon Chamber of Commerce (1518 5th Ave., 800/999-9481, www.canyonchamber.org, Mon.-Fri. 9am-4:30pm).
Abilene (population 121,721) is known for its frontier heritage and cattle drives. Its name, in fact, is an homage to the famous Kansas cattle town at the other end of the rail lines, and this midsize Panhandle-area city (some refer to this region of Texas as the Big Country) remains an important destination for ranchers and tourists.
Like other towns in this region, Abilene’s origins are traced to railroads and ranching. Initially inhabited by nomadic Indians and occasional westward-bound frontier families, the city didn’t make it onto most maps until the Texas & Pacific Railroad established it as a stock shipping station in 1881.
Agriculture has been Abilene’s major economic force since its inception, with cattle and farming making up most of the city’s product base. By the mid-1900s, oil became another contributing factor, along with a sizable population boom resulting from a significant amount of federal funding and infrastructure related to World War II training.
With the increase in people came an added emphasis on education and religion (typically combined). The city boasts several bastions of higher education, including Abilene Christian University, Hardin-Simmons University, and McMurry University. The fact that these three institutions are Christian based has prompted some to dub Abilene the “Buckle of the Bible Belt.”
By nature, history museums aren’t progressive places. That’s why it’s so refreshing to experience the innovative approach at Frontier Texas! (625 N. 1st St., 325/437-2800, www.frontiertexas.com, Mon.-Sat. 9am-6pm, Sun. 1pm-5pm, $10 adults, $7 seniors and military, $6 students, $5 children ages 3-12). For example: Comanche chief Esihabitu looks directly into your eyes as you hear his calm and measured voice tell a profound story about clashes with European settlers. In a flash he’s gone, leaving an empty cave and vivid memories in the shadows. Esihabitu is one of the museum’s “spirit guides,” life-size spectral image movies (holograms) offering firsthand accounts of life in the Panhandle Plains from 1780 to 1880. These and other technology-based exhibits (intense 360-degree movies, educational computer games, and interactive displays) set Frontier Texas! apart.
Visitors take a chronological journey through the museum, beginning with Native American tribes, continuing to European expansion, and ending with Abilene’s official founding in 1881. One exhibit that always draws visitors’ attention is the roughly 15-foot-tall pile of buffalo skulls bathed in an ominous red light representing Abilene’s late-1800s buffalo-bone business.
Not surprisingly, kids love the experience and come away with stories of shooting a replica buffalo-hunting gun and talking about the historical figures they “met,” rather than breezing past glass-enclosed artifacts with accompanying explanatory plaques. It’s almost worth making the trip to Abilene simply for the Century of Adventure movie, where viewers sit on benches surrounded by screens and special effects depicting life on the Texas frontier in intense fashion, complete with an Indian attack, buffalo stampede, violent thunderstorm, and firefly-filled evening.
Seemingly out of place in the remote city of Abilene is the National Center for Children’s Illustrated Literature (102 Cedar St., 325/673-4586, www.nccil.org, Tues.-Sat. 10am-4pm, free). This contemporary urban-minded facility, housed in a former hotel parking garage, showcases the unheralded artists whose work is featured in children’s storybooks. From The Very Hungry Caterpillar to The Berenstain Bears, the museum highlights the achievements of artists typically recognized only by youngsters and their parents. Fortunately, the museum’s important work is appreciated beyond Abilene, since each exhibition travels to other institutions, public libraries, and galleries across the country. The museum also offers families the opportunity to meet visiting artists, free art activities every Saturday afternoon, an annual summer art camp, and the popular ArtWalk, featuring art exhibitions, live performances, movies, and interactive activities the second Thursday evening of each month.
Across the street from the Children’s Literature Center is Abilene’s best-recognized downtown feature, the Grace Museum (102 Cypress St., 325/673-4587, www.thegracemuseum.org, Tues.-Sat. 10am-5pm, Thurs. until 8pm, $6 adults, $3 seniors and children ages 4-12). Housed in the magnificent four-story 1909 Grace Hotel, on the National Register of Historic Places, the Grace contains three museums showcasing regional history, international artwork, and interactive children’s exhibits. Relive the fancy days of Abilene’s history in the Grace’s luxurious marble-filled lobby and grand ballroom before proceeding to the exhibits. Highlights include a replicated hotel room from the Grace’s early days, a cluttered yet fascinating re-created boot shop, and a hands-on musical art exhibit. An interesting historical fact: The hotel was briefly known as The Drake, allowing the budget-minded owner to replace only two letters on The Grace’s gigantic rooftop sign.
Billing itself as “one of the five largest zoos in Texas” is the popular and respectable Abilene Zoo (2070 Zoo Ln., Nelson Park, 325/676-6085, www.abilenezoo.org, daily 9am-5pm, Memorial Day-Labor Day until 9pm, $7 adults, $6 seniors, $4.50 children ages 3-12). The zoo contains more than 500 animals representing hundreds of species, including monkeys, rhinos, zebras, bison, and jaguars. Popular exhibits include the Creepy Crawler Center, Wetlands Boardwalk, butterfly gardens, and the giraffe area, where visitors can occasionally pet and feed the exotic creatures via a bridge crossing over their habitat. The zoo also offers educational programs, summer camps, and interactive tours.
Rising out of the earth like eerie spirits of the past, the lonesome chimneys of Fort Phantom Hill (11 miles north of Abilene on FM 600, 325/677-1309, www.fortphantom.org) stand as a testament to the region’s frontier heritage. A new visitors kiosk (built in 2013) provides historical information and a big brochure with a map and self-guided tour. The National Register-listed fort was one of the largest of its kind, with dozens of structures and hundreds of soldiers. The fort was built in 1851 to protect settlers from Native American raids but was abandoned three years later after a series of natural hardships. The Native American threat was largely unfounded, and the soldiers reportedly became so bored, they deserted in increasing numbers until it was completely forsaken. Soon after, most of the buildings were mysteriously burned, though it’s suspected that lingering disaffected soldiers were to blame. What remains at the fort are the forlorn chimneys, foundations of buildings, and even a few stone structures (most notably a commissary and guardhouse). Interpretive panels tell the tale of this unique and oft-overlooked attraction. To get there, take the I-20 exit at FM 600 and go 11 miles north. The main portion of the fort is located on the east side of FM 600.
Fort Phantom Hill
Fourteen miles south of Abilene is the charming Buffalo Gap Historic Village (133 N. William St., Buffalo Gap, 325/572-3365, Mon.-Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. noon-5pm, $7 adults, $6 seniors and military, $4 students). This quaint living-history museum showcases the region’s frontier heritage with historic artifacts, maps, interpretive events, and a dozen relocated historic buildings. The village’s courthouse museum contains an impressive collection of arrowheads and weapons, and car buffs (and kids) will enjoy the pair of Model T Fords on the museum’s grounds.
One of the most popular places for area residents to enjoy the outdoors is Abilene State Park (150 Park Rd. 32, 325/572-3204, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, $5 ages 13 and older). Sixteen miles southwest of town, the 529-acre park is accented by rolling hills and sturdy rock structures constructed in the early 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps. Locals frequent the park for its sublime swimming pool and groves of shady pecan trees. Visitors drop by to catch a glimpse of the buffalo and the Official State of Texas Longhorn Herd (a portion of the group is on-site). Camping, hiking, fishing, and biking are other popular activities.
Abilene has several well-known authentic Western wear shops specializing in custom-made leather goods. The city also has a surprisingly extensive collection of antiques stores, where visitors, particularly out-of-staters, will find plenty of Texas charm and maybe even a few treasures.
People travel hundreds of miles to experience the pleasure of ordering and purchasing boots from the legendary James Leddy Boots (1602 N. Treadaway Blvd., 325/677-7811, Mon.-Fri. 8am-5pm). Even if you don’t order a pair of the perfectly designed and eminently comfortable cowboy boots, you can witness them being handcrafted in the store’s workshop. Leddy family members are usually on hand to take visitors on personal tours, and the shop has a large section of boots available for immediate purchase if you find that perfect fit. Leddy’s has outfitted the famous (George Jones, Jerry Lee Lewis, and Buck Owens) and the not so famous (local farmers and ranchers).
For a truly distinctive custom-made leather item, head to 5D Custom Hats and Leather (517 Oak St., 325/673-9000, www.5dhats.com, Mon.-Sat. 9am-5:30pm). Hats are the main draw here—owner Damon Albus will create any style, shape, or color you desire—but don’t pass up the opportunity to order something unique, like a personalized belt, purse, or phone holder. Not quite as practical yet intriguing nevertheless is Art Reed Custom Saddles (361 E. South 11th St., 325/677-4572, Mon.-Fri. 9:30-11:30am, 2-5pm). The smell of leather is almost overwhelming (in a good way), and even if you’re not in the market for a $2,000 saddle, you may find chaps or other cowboy gear to your liking.
An Old West town like Abilene is a great place to buy old stuff. A popular shop with a kitschy twist is Fabulous Finds (715 Grape St., 325/677-5110, Thurs.-Sat. 10:30am-5:30pm or by appointment). You’ll find plenty of antiques, glassware, and consignment items along with vintage costume jewelry and collectibles. Sift through the dated and elegant collection of furniture, lighting, home accessories, and pictures.
For an all-inclusive experience, head to the antiques mall at Antique Station (703 N. 3rd St., 325/675-6100, Tues.-Sat. 10am-5:30pm). Items at the dozens of vendor booths include furniture, china, home accessories, and advertising memorabilia.
This is cowboy country, so most locals consider Abilene’s best restaurants to be steak houses. As always, the Mexican food options are good; otherwise, fine dining is not one of Abilene’s strong points.
One of the best steaks you’ll ever enjoy (in fact, it’s the best steak this professional Texas travel writer has ever eaten) awaits at S Perini Ranch Steakhouse (3002 FM 89, Buffalo Gap, 325/572-3339, www.periniranch.com, Tues.-Thurs. 5pm-10pm, Fri.-Sun. 11am-10pm, $12-44).Tom Perini is a nationally respected expert on Texas cooking (he’s cooked for former president George W. Bush and traveled to Russia at the request of Vladimir Putin), so it’s a rare pleasure to be able to consume his exquisite creations at his charmingly rustic restaurant about 20 minutes southwest of Abilene. The key to Perini’s sublime steaks is his chuckwagon-style of preparation—high-quality fresh steaks are prepared with a simple dry rub seasoning of light spices before being placed over intensely hot flames and mesquite coals. This unique Big Country method brings out the immense flavor of the prime beef (the bone-in rib eye is perhaps the best Texas-style meal you’ll ever consume). What puts the experience over the top are the unique side dishes, particularly the restaurant’s signature green chile hominy, an ideal blend of grits, chiles, cheese, and bacon. Save room for the delectable bread pudding or jalapeño cheesecake.
If you’re in downtown Abilene and have a hankerin’ for some pork or chicken, head directly to the Beehive Restaurant and Saloon (442 Cedar St., 325/675-0600, www.beehivesaloon.com, Tues.-Fri. 11am-1:30pm and 5pm-10pm, Sat. 5pm-10pm, $10-34). The Beehive, named for a former legendary outlaw saloon in nearby Albany, is known for its quality steaks with corn-fed beef (impressive in steak-lover circles). The bacon-wrapped pork chop is an indulgent yet delicious option, and the seafood dishes are surprisingly good.
A bakery isn’t the first place you expect to find amazing Mexican food, but that’s exactly what’s on the menu at La Popular Bakery & Cafe (1533 Pine St., 325/672-2670, daily 6am-9pm, $4-10), a hole-in-the-wall establishment near downtown. La Popular is a great place to go for brunch, since you can sample the tasty pastries (the gingerbread cookies and frosting-covered fruit Danishes are highly recommended) along with the lunch items. The burritos are legendary here, and you can’t go wrong with anything made with its fresh tortillas—the beef tacos, in particular.
For a traditional Tex-Mex dinner, head to TaMolly’s Mexican Restaurant (4400 Ridgemont Dr., 325/698-2000, www.tamollys.com, daily 11am-9pm, $7-17), a small regional chain. The personal mini bowl of salsa each diner receives is a nice touch, and the classic combo plates are pure comfort food—cheese enchiladas, chicken flautas, crispy tacos, and quesadillas. Top it all off with a strawberry crispito, consisting of fried tortilla strips smothered in fruit and whipped cream.
A couple other places in town also offer standard yet quality Tex-Mex fare. To get your fill of beef burritos, chicken enchiladas, carne asada, and loaded nachos, drop by Enchilada Express (790 S. Leggett Dr., 325/232-8682, daily 11am-9pm, $7-13) or Alfredo’s Mexican Food (2849 S. 14th St., 325/698-0104, daily 7am-10:30pm, $4-13).
It’s a bit hokey, but you won’t experience too many other places like the Ball Ranch (south of Abilene at 525 S. Hwy. 83-84, 800/365-6507, www.theballranch.com, Sat. nights Apr.-Dec., $11-19). You’ll find a big ol’ open barnlike structure with several trees growing inside and accented with Western-themed items (saddles, ranching equipment). Ball Ranch serves an authentic and better-than-average chuckwagon supper, featuring mesquite-smoked barbecue meat (the brisket is mighty tender) with potato salad, red beans, biscuits, and peach cobbler. After dinner, the Ball family takes the stage and treats the audience to Western swing and country classics. Call ahead for reservations.
On the complete opposite end of the spectrum is the fancy downtown Cypress Street Station (158 Cypress St., 325/676-3463, www.cypress-street.com, Tues.-Fri. 11am-1:30pm and 5pm-10pm, Sat. 11am-10pm, $9-30). Start your meal by selecting from one of the best wine lists in town, and continue with a tasty appetizer of almond-crusted baked brie with toast points, topped with a honey and balsamic reduction. For the main course, consider the pork chop with apple demi-glace, the filet mignon with stuffed crab and Boursin cheese, or the seafood risotto with roasted red peppers. You could also accompany your meal with a fine locally crafted brew.
An absolute must for fans of Texas barbecue is the legendary Joe Allen’s (301 S. 11th St, 325/672-9948, Mon.-Sat. 11am-9pm, Sun. 11am-2pm, $9-19). The perfectly smoked meat is consistently flavorful—try the brisket, pork rib, and sausage combo—and the sides are way above average (the potato salad and homemade cornbread in particular). The sauce sometimes needs an extra kick, so add a dash of Tabasco to it before dunking your brisket in it. Even when they’re not craving ’cue, locals line up for Joe Allen’s delicious mesquite-grilled steak and trout.
Chain hotels are the name of the game in Abilene, so travelers won’t find many charming independent options. One of the newest (2013) and best in town is S Residence Inn (1641 Musgrave Blvd., 325/677-8700, www.residenceinn.com, $116 d), featuring contemporary suites with unexpectedly large kitchens, complimentary Internet access, a free hot breakfast, and free adult beverages at happy hour. Perhaps the biggest bonus? Free dinner! Another choice is Best Western (350 E. Overland Trail, 325/672-5501, www.bestwestern.com, $76 d), featuring free Internet access, a complimentary hot breakfast, an outdoor pool, and an exercise room. Also commendable is the Holiday Inn Express (1802 E. Overland Trail, 325/675-9800, www.ichotelsgroup.com, $127 d), offering free wireless Internet service, a free continental breakfast, an outdoor pool, and a fitness center. Similar in price and amenities is La Quinta (3501 W. Lake Rd., 800/531-5900, www.lq.com, $99 d), offering rooms with free Internet access, a free continental breakfast, and an outdoor pool.
Courtyard Abilene (4350 Ridgemont Dr., 325/695-9600, www.marriott.com, $101 d) is another option; amenities include free wireless Internet access, a 24-hour market, an indoor heated pool, a whirlpool, and a fitness center. Occupying a former large chain hotel is the regionally operated and respected S MCM Elegante Suites (4250 Ridgemont Dr., 325/698-1234, www.mcmelegantesuites.com, $149 d). The welcoming lobby area contains a large naturally lit atrium where a free breakfast is served each morning, and the rooms include two separate areas, with a wet bar, refrigerator, microwave, and free wireless Internet access.
In a city overrun with chain hotels, it’s nice to have the option of staying in an authentic environment—especially when it’s just a few blocks from downtown. Many Abilene visitors opt to stay at the remarkable Sparhawk Bed & Breakfast (3695 S. 1st St., 325/437-3729, www.sparhawk.com, $75-105). This historic 1930s structure was once part of the historic Sunset Lodge. It’s comfortable and spacious, with antiques-bedecked rooms offering Internet access, cable TV, and private bathrooms.
The best place to pitch a tent (or rent a yurt) and enjoy a campfire in the Big Country is Abilene State Park (150 Park Rd. 32, 325/572-3204, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, $12-20, yurts $40). Campsites are available with water and electric hookups, and the park added three yurts (defined as “enhanced shelters”) containing double/single bunk beds with mattresses, a fold-out sofa, and a microwave.
The Abilene Convention and Visitors Bureau and Abilene Cultural Affairs Council (1101 N. 1st St., 325/676-2556, www.abilenecac.org, Mon.-Fri. 8:30am-5pm) are worth visiting just to see the impressive facility they’re both housed in—the beautifully restored Texas & Pacific Railroad Depot. Friendly staffers from both organizations will gladly offer assistance, suggestions, maps, and brochures.
The Abilene Regional Airport (2933 Airport Blvd., 325/676-6367, www.iflyabi.com) offers flights by American Eagle and car rentals from Avis (325/677-9240), Budget (325/677-7777), Enterprise (325/690-9338), and Hertz (325/673-6774). For cab service, contact Classic Cab (325/677-8294) or LeCoach Taxi (325/673-3138). The city also offers bus service Monday-Saturday from the airport and throughout town via its City Link transit system (1189 S. 2nd St., 325/676-6287, www.abilenetx.com).
The mystique of West Texas and the Panhandle Plains begins to unfold just beyond the Hill Country in San Angelo (population 100,450), where rolling hills tumble into outstretched vistas of vast sky. The city has grown slowly yet steadily since its early days as an outpost for the adjacent Fort Concho, established in 1867 to protect westward-moving settlers against Native American raids.
Like other frontier forts in the region, Fort Concho was well manned yet rather monotonous due to the lack of attacks. Historians have described the fort’s typical experience as being “long periods of tedium interspersed with short blasts of excitement.” The only significant activity occurred when encroaching Native American tribes caused a stir, resulting in minor skirmishes.
The army’s presence at Fort Concho, however, was directly responsible for San Angelo’s early growth. With plenty of federal funding arriving regularly for supplies and salaries, soldiers took to the streets in search of personal supplies, construction materials, and even some illegal activity. Businesses soon popped up to take care of the soldiers’ needs for goods and services along with women and whiskey. Bordellos and saloons were almost as numerous as merchandise outlets.
After Fort Concho closed in the late 1800s, the arrival of the railroad helped establish San Angelo as a major ranching center; to this day, it remains one of the country’s leading producers of mohair and wool production. The city continues to boast one of the state’s most diverse industrial bases, with more than 120 manufacturing companies producing products ranging from denim to metals to oil field equipment.
San Angelo’s distinct heritage, burgeoning arts scene, and welcoming combo of small-town charm and big-city services make for a unique getaway. The impressive art museum and better-than-expected restaurant scene allow tourists to enjoy impressive cultural amenities, while the wide downtown streets and charming historic buildings let them put a little West Texas swagger in their walk.
The time-transporting Fort Concho National Historic Landmark (630 S. Oakes St., 325/481-2646, www.fortconcho.com, Mon.-Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. 1pm-5pm, $3 adults, $2 seniors, $1.50 students) is considered perhaps the best preserved of Texas’s frontier forts. Relive the life of an army soldier in the late 1800s through nearly two dozen renovated and well-maintained facilities such as barracks, stables, and officers’ quarters. Displays containing vintage artifacts and replica equipment effectively demonstrate the scene at Fort Concho, described as relatively active yet fairly mundane.
Constructed to protect settlers from Indian raids, the fort was much like a fire station: always poised for activity yet often encountering none. In fact, one of the more interesting aspects of Fort Concho is related to its soldiers rather than its enemies. An atypically diverse population (for Texas) emerged at the fort in the 1870s when Buffalo Soldiers, a colloquial name given to African American troops, joined the ranks. In its 22-year history as an active post, Fort Concho hosted almost as many African Americans as Caucasians. The exhibit dedicated to the Buffalo Soldiers is one of the highlights of a visit to Fort Concho.
Along with Fort Concho, the city’s most significant cultural attraction is the San Angelo Museum of Fine Arts (1 Love St., 325/653-3333, www.samfa.org, Tues.-Sat. 10am-4pm, Sun. 1pm-4pm, $2 adults, $1 seniors and students). Boasting a hip physical address, this impressive museum showcases world-class exhibits and occasional regional shows. The building, with its dramatic saddle-shaped roof designed by an architectural firm known for its restoration work at Radio City Music Hall, is a masterpiece unto itself. The museum features three galleries focusing on contemporary work and U.S. ceramics, with a permanent collection of nearly 200 pieces, along with a research library, ceramics studio, and education wing. Visitors are allowed to view the artwork housed in storage, another unique opportunity at this one-of-a-kind facility.
Once home to “the most famous brothel in West Texas,” this straight-out-of-a-Western scene on historic Concho Avenue is now Miss Hattie’s Bordello Museum (18 E. Concho Ave., 325/653-0112, www.misshatties.com, Tues.-Sat. 10am-4pm, tours Thurs.-Sat. at the top of the hour 1pm-4pm, $6 adults). Cowpokes, business travelers, and especially soldiers from nearby Fort Concho were quite familiar with the 2nd floor of this downtown stone building, known simply as “Miss Hattie’s.” Vintage furniture and velvet drapes recall San Angelo’s Wild West era, when patrons would drink whiskey and play cards in the downstairs saloon and parlor house, then complete their evening of entertainment upstairs. The museum’s rooms, complete with original furnishings, lace curtains, and gilded pressed-tin ceilings, are named for the women who worked at the brothel.
It’s a far cry from the famous San Antonio River Walk, but San Angelo’s version of a riverside stroll, the Concho River Walk (915/653-1206), is much more relaxing and natural. Though the entire trail spans more than six miles, the most interesting and accessible portions run through downtown, where walkers can experience manicured gardens and landscaped parks, fountains, miniature waterfalls, and stunning riverside homes. Watch out for the geese—they’ll loudly demand a handout.
Train buffs will be interested in the small Railway Museum of San Angelo (703 S. Chadbourne St., 325/486-2140, www.railwaymuseumsanangelo.homestead.com, Sat. 10am-4pm). In the restored Santa Fe depot building just south of downtown, the museum features rotating displays of railroad-related artifacts, elaborate model-train exhibits (featuring a fascinating depiction of the city in 1928), and several railcars on permanent display. Unfortunately, the museum is only open on Saturday, so plan accordingly.
Immediately west of town on the shores of Fisher Reservoir is San Angelo State Park (3900 Mercedes St., 325/949-4757, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, $3 ages 13 and older). This is where San Angeloeans come to play, and there’s plenty to enjoy; namely, 7,677 acres of mostly undeveloped property containing rolling hills, Native American pictographs, a portion of the Official State of Texas Longhorn Herd, and many recreational activities. Park visitors can enjoy camping, hiking, mountain biking, and horseback riding on the trails, and fishing and boating on the lake. Tours are available to the ancient Permian animal tracks and rock art. Contact the park for a tour schedule and fees.
For a small city, San Angelo has an impressive range of shopping options. The city is particularly proud of its unique Concho Pearls cultivated in its own waterways.
Not many places can claim to be a source for jewelry, so San Angelo residents are rightfully proud of their homegrown, naturally produced Concho Pearl. This stunning lavender-colored pearl is present only in freshwater mussel shells found in area lakes, rivers, and streams. These distinctive beauties range in color from light pink to dark purple and vary in size and shape from spherical to baroque. The pearls have been coveted for more than 400 years, when Spanish explorers sought the colorful iridescent treasures in nearby waterways. Incidentally, the word concho is Spanish for shell.
The best place to shop for Concho Pearls is Legend Jewelers (18 E. Concho Ave., 325/653-0112, www.legendjewelers.com), in the heart of San Angelo’s historic downtown commercial district. Legend’s boasts the largest collection of Concho Pearls in the country, offering various designs and settings in rings, necklaces, and earrings. While there, check out Legend’s interesting selection of horned toad jewelry, produced from rubber molds made from the actual toads in the 1970s.
A more limited selection of Concho Pearls is also available at Jewelry Expressions (2009 Knickerbocker Rd., 325/224-4499).
Even guys won’t mind browsing the charming shops along Concho Avenue in San Angelo’s historic downtown commercial area. Consisting of a handful of shops in restored old buildings, this one-block area between Oakes and Chadbourne Streets is highlighted by Eggemeyer’s General Store (35 E. Concho Ave., 325/655-1166), a genuine mercantile shop. Eggemeyer’s offers a true blast from the past, with homemade candy and fudge (highly recommended); specialty coffees; bins filled with toys, knickknacks, and souvenirs; plenty of kitschy Texas-style home decor items; and an entire room filled with kitchen gadgets and recipe books.
Most West Texas cities have a legendary boot maker, and in San Angelo it’s J.L. Mercer & Sons Boot Co. (224 S. Chadbourne St., 325/658-7634, www.jlmercerboots.com). Located in the downtown commercial district since 1923, the company has been consistently producing high-quality cowboy boots for generations of satisfied San Angeloeans. Mercer’s claims to have outfitted such luminaries as Lyndon B. Johnson and John Wayne, along with slightly less legendary folks like Charlie Daniels, Barry Corbin, and Tom Wopat. All of the boots are handmade on-site, from super ropers to cowboy boots with exotic skins and inlay work. Other popular Western wear shops in San Angelo offering boots, hats, cowboy apparel, and accessories include Blair’s Western Wear Inc. (4230 Sherwood Way, 325/949-6287) and M.L. Leddy’s Boots & Saddlery (222 S. Oakes St., 325/653-3397).
San Angelo’s legendary, if slightly outdated, steak restaurant is Zentner’s Daughter Steak House (1901 Knickerbocker Rd., 325/949-2821, daily 11am-2pm and 5pm-9:30pm, $10-35). Though it’s not too inviting from the outside, the inside transports you back to the era of classic steak houses, with dimly lit rooms and well-worn furnishings. But that’s not why people come here—it’s for the thick, juicy steaks. The rib eye is tremendous, and the filet mignon is superb.
For an authentic West Texas steak house experience, go to the charmingly old-school Western Sky Steak House (2024 N. Chadbourne St., 325/655-3610, www.westernskysteakhouse.org, Mon.-Sat. 11am-9:30pm, Sun. 11am-3pm, $10-36). Located in a generic-looking stand-alone spot with a large hokey mural painted on one side, Western Sky proudly bills itself as the “home of San Angelo’s biggest steak.” Indeed, the 52-ounce sirloin is mighty in presence, and the hardy patrons (ranchers and cowboys from the area) who devour the megasize meat claim it’s equally large in taste. Meanwhile, the mere mortals tend to opt for the tender T-bone and rib eye, or one of the restaurant’s specialties, like the Spanish steak—a tasty rib eye topped with ranchero sauce and served with beans, french fries, salad, and several flour tortillas.
One of the best spots for Tex-Mex in town is Fuentes Cafe (101 S. Chadbourne St., 325/658-2430, Mon.-Sat. 11am-9:30pm, Sun. 11am-2pm, $8-16). Housed in a charming downtown building, Fuentes is highly regarded for its fajitas, enchiladas (try the spinach option), and particularly its guiso, a tantalizing dish featuring tender stew meat simmered in a richly seasoned sauce.
If you like Western Sky Steak House, you’ll love its Mex-themed sister restaurant, Franco’s Café (2218 Martin Luther King Blvd., 325/653-8010, www.francoscafe.org, daily 8am-11pm, $7-15). Like its hermana, Franco’s is uninspiring on the exterior and tremendously tasty on the plate. Popular items include the burritos and fajitas, but one of the best options on the menu is its unconventional approach to the chile relleno. Combining the approaches of the Rio Grande Valley and far West Texas, Franco’s version offers an egg-fried Anaheim pepper filled with beef and topped with ranchero sauce.
When you’re in the historic downtown commercial district shopping for Concho Pearls, make sure to grab some lunch at Miss Hattie’s Restaurant (26 E. Concho Ave., 325/653-0570, www.misshatties.com, daily 11am-10pm, $8-22). Once home to a notorious brothel, the building now offers tempting dishes of American fare. The restaurant still maintains the feel of an Old West saloon, with dark wood furnishings and Victorian-era paintings and details, and the food is similarly welcoming, especially the hearty chicken and dumplings and fancy gourmet sandwiches.
Chains dominate San Angelo’s hotel landscape, with most commendable options located along U.S. Highway 87 northwest of downtown or on U.S. Highway 67 near San Angelo State University on the western edge of the city. Those looking for a unique lodging experience might want to take roost at the Inn at the Art Center, a former chicken farm turned B&B.
One of the best deals in town, budget or otherwise, is Quality Inn (4613 S. Jackson, 325/658-6594, www.choicehotels.com, $48 d), featuring rooms with free Internet access, recliners, microwaves and refrigerators (upon request), an outdoor pool, and, most important, a coupon for free breakfast next door at Roxie’s, a 1950s-style diner serving omelets, pancakes, biscuits, and mediocre coffee. On the northwestern edge of downtown is the Inn of the Conchos (2021 N. Bryant Blvd., 325/658-2811, www.inn-of-the-conchos.com, $79 d). It’s a bit rough around the edges, but the Concho is one of San Angelo’s few independently operated hotels, as evidenced by its colorful slogan, “A darn good place to hang your hat.” The hotel offers limited amenities but includes a large outdoor pool and free coffee in the lobby. Just down the road is Ramada Limited (2201 N. Bryant Blvd., 325/653-4482, www.ramada.com, $59 d), featuring rooms with free Internet access, refrigerators, a free continental breakfast, and an outdoor pool.
Slightly more expensive is the Comfort Suites (4450 W. Houston Harte Expy., 325/944-8600, www.comfortsuites.com, $109 d), featuring free Internet access and a free hot breakfast. Also recommended is Holiday Inn Express (4613 Houston Harte Expy., 877/863-4780, www.ichotelsgroup.com, $82 d), offering Internet access, a fitness center, and an outdoor pool and spa near the San Angelo State University campus. Nearby is the fairly fancy Fairfield Inn (1459 Knickerbocker Rd., 325/482-8400, www.marriott.com, $104 d), providing a complimentary breakfast buffet, a fitness room, an outdoor pool and spa, and free Internet access.
Offering a true alternative to traditional corporate lodging is the fabulously funky S Inn at the Art Center (2503 Martin Luther King Blvd., 325/659-3836, www.chickenfarmartcenter.com, $75-110), near downtown. A former chicken farm, this 1970s-era compound contains a fascinating collection of artist studios, galleries, and a restaurant. The three rooms comprising the B&B portion of the art center are tastefully decorated with intriguing Western-themed works from the owner, and the whole place, with its colorful private gardens and meandering grapevines, has a Santa Fe via West Texas vibe. If you happen to be here on the first Saturday of the month, you’ll be treated to live music performances and artists’ demonstrations throughout the compound.
The best place to pitch a tent or park an RV is San Angelo State Park (3900 Mercedes St., 325/949-4757, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, $8-18), just west of town on the Fisher Reservoir. The park features six air-conditioned and heated mini cabins, zsites with water and electricity, and tent sites with picnic tables and grills. Just southwest of town on Lake Nasworthy is the popular Spring Creek Marina RV Park (45 Fishermans Rd., 325/944-3850, www.springcreekmarina-rv.com, sites $25-38, cabins $50-70). The park contains 83 RV sites with full hookups, tent sites with water and electric hookups, and furnished cabins with air-conditioning, refrigerators, showers, and bathrooms.
The San Angelo Convention and Visitors Bureau stocks plenty of free brochures and maps at its impressive new visitors center (418 W. Ave. B, 800/375-1206, www.sanangelo.org, Mon.-Fri. 9am-5pm, Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. noon-4pm). This aesthetically pleasing facility, constructed with native materials—the limestone walls came from nearby quarries, and the floors and benches are made of local mesquite wood—is nestled along the Concho River, and its enormous windows and outdoor patio provide picturesque views of the river.
The San Angelo Regional Airport (8618 Terminal Cir., 325/659-6409, www.sanangelotexas.us) offers service from American Eagle and car rentals from Avis (325/949-8681), Budget (325/659-6409), and Hertz (325/944-1221). San Angelo’s cab options are Red Ball Taxi & Shuttle (325/942-8899) and Yellow Cab Co. (325/655-5555).