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Note: Page numbers in italics refer to illustrations.
A
Ad Hoc, 102–7
Aioli, 333
almond(s):
Cipollini Onion Chutney with Almonds, 242, 244
Endive and Arugula Salad with Peaches and Marcona Almonds, 131, 140
Marcona Almond Butter, 239, 240
toasting, 167
anchovies:
Anchovy Dressing, 183
Artichoke Tapenade, 250, 252–53
Herb-Crusted Rack of Lamb with Honey Mustard Glaze, 37, 59
Olive Tapenade, 250
Sweet Onion Tapenade, 250
apple(s):
Slow-Cooker Apple Butter, 249–50
appliances, 9–10
Apricot-Currant Compote, 243, 244, 246
aromatics, 76
artichoke(s):
Artichoke Mustard, 251
Artichoke Tapenade, 250, 252–53
Braised Artichokes, 221
Sautéed Lamb Loin Chops, 58
arugula:
Breaded Veal Cutlets, 77
Endive and Arugula Salad with Peaches and Marcona Almonds, 131, 140
asparagus:
Asparagus and Tomato-Bacon Stew, 193
Asparagus Coins, 192
Grilled Asparagus with Prosciutto, Fried Bread, Poached Egg, and Aged Balsamic Vinegar, 156, 157, 275
Spring Vegetable Garbure, 109, 112–13
avocado: Fresh Tuna Salad, 168, 169
B
bacon:
Asparagus and Tomato-Bacon Stew, 193
Bacon Vinaigrette, 179
Borlotti Bean Ragù, 210
Clam Chowder with Bacon, 126
Iceberg Lettuce Slices with Blue Cheese Dressing, Oven-Roasted Tomatoes, Bacon, and Brioche Croutons, 150, 151
lardons, 150
Lentil and Sweet Potato Soup, 121
Potato Hash with Bacon and Melted Onions, 222
skin from, 113
banana(s):
Banana Bread Pudding, 300–301
basics, 332–45
Aioli, 333
Basic Pie Crust, 338
Beef Stock, 340
Cherry Gastrique, 336
Chicken Brine, 339
Chicken Stock, 339–40
Clarified Butter, 335
cooking eggs, 342–43
Court Bouillon, 341
Deep-Fried Herbs, 342
dessert. See dessert basics
grilling, 345
Herb and Shallot Butter, 334–35
Lemon Aioli, 333
Mayonnaise, 333
Melted Leek Rounds, 337
Melted Onions, 337
Mornay Sauce, 334
Mushroom Stock, 341
Oven-Roasted Tomato Sauce, 333
Parsley Water, 335
Pasta Dough, 338
Piment d’Espelette Aioli, 333
Pork Brine, 339
preparing lobsters, 342
Romesco Sauce, 333–34
Roux, 334
Sachet, 342
Traditional and Slow-Cooker Beans, 337–38
Vegetable Stock, 341
Yellow Curry Powder, 336
see also becoming a better cook
basil:
basil cream, 149
Basil Oil, 265
Tomato-Basil Marmalade, 244, 248
bass: Salt-Crusted Striped Bass, 98, 99
basting, 96
bean(s):
Borlotti Bean Ragù, 210
green. See green bean(s)
Heirloom Bean and Escarole Soup, 115
Italian flat (Romano) beans, 203
Romano Beans with Mint, 203
Spring Vegetable Garbure, 109, 112–13
Traditional and Slow-Cooker Beans, 337–38
Béchamel sauce, 24–25
becoming a better cook, 4–11
blanching, big-pot technique, 6, 147
braising, 5–6
eggs, 6
ingredients, 7
organization, 11
pan-roasting, 5
pie crust, 7
poaching, 6
roasting, 6
roasting a chicken, 5
with salt, 5
sautéing, 5
soups, 6
with vinegar, 5
beef, 41–57
Beef Stock, 340
Beef Stroganoff, 42–43
Blowtorch Prime Rib Roast, 56
Braised Beef Short Ribs, 41–42
Braised Oxtail and Mushroom Tartine, 55
Catalan Beef Stew, 44–45, 46–47
cutting across the grain, 54
grinding, 49
ground, safety factor, 48
Meatballs with Pappardelle, 50
Peppercorn-Crusted Beef Tenderloin, 47
Porterhouse Steak, 51
resting, 38
Santa Maria–Style Tri-Tip, 54
beet(s):
Baked Beets, 194
Cream of Cauliflower Soup with Red Beet Chips, 127, 128–29
Roasted Beet and Potato Salad with Soft-Cooked Egg, Smoked Salmon, and Mustard Vinaigrette, 164, 165
Biscuits, Buttermilk, 276, 277
Blackberry Sauce, 343
blanching, big-pot technique, 6, 147
blenders, 9
Blowtorch Prime Rib Roast, 56
Blueberry Cobbler, 295, 296, 296
Blue Cheese Dressing, 182, 285
Iceberg Lettuce Slices with Blue Cheese Dressing, Oven-Roasted Tomatoes, Bacon, and Brioche Croutons, 150, 151
Borlotti Bean Ragù, 210
braising, 5–6
Braised Artichokes, 221
Braised Beef Short Ribs, 41–42
Braised Oxtail and Mushroom Tartine, 55
Braised Pork Belly, 74
Butter-Braised Radishes, Kohlrabi, and Brussels Sprouts, 186, 196
Crispy Braised Chicken Thighs with Olives, Lemon, and Fennel, 30
Breaded Veal Cutlets, 77
Banana Bread Pudding, 300–301
Brioche, 272
Brioche Croutons, 273
Dried Bread Crumbs, 273
Garlic Toast, 280
Grissini (breadsticks), 282, 283
Leek Bread Pudding, 211, 212, 213
brines and brining, 75
Brined Pork Tenderloin, 64
Buttermilk Fried Chicken, 13, 16–17
Chicken Brine, 339
Pan-Roasted Chicken with Sweet Sausage and Peppers, 20
Pork Brine, 339
Brioche, 272
Brioche Croutons, 273
Iceberg Lettuce Slices with Blue Cheese Dressing, Oven-Roasted Tomatoes, Bacon, and Brioche Croutons, 150, 151
Broccolini Salad with Burrata Cheese, 144, 145, 146
Broccoli Rabe, Sautéed, with Garlic and Chile Flakes, 195
Brockman, Jim, 104
Browning Gold cheese, 290
Brussels sprouts: Butter-Braised Radishes, Kohlrabi, and Brussels Sprouts, 186, 196
Burrata cheese, 287
Broccolini Salad with Burrata Cheese, 144, 145, 146
buttercream:
Chocolate Buttercream Frosting, 316
Vanilla Buttercream Frosting, 315–16
buttermilk:
Buttermilk Dressing, 182
Buttermilk Fried Chicken, 13, 16–17
Devil’s Food Cupcakes, 314, 316
Panna Cotta, 301
butters, 226
basting with, 96
Butter-Braised Radishes, Kohlrabi, and Brussels Sprouts, 186, 196
Butter-Poached Marble Potatoes, 223
Clarified Butter, 335
Gremolata Butter, 26
Herb and Shallot Butter, 334–35
Marcona Almond Butter, 239, 240
Slow-Cooker Apple Butter, 249–50
C
cabbage:
Caramelized Savoy Cabbage, 197
Coleslaw, 198
Duck Confit with Sautéed Red and Green Cabbage, 33
Sautéed Red and Green Cabbage, 198
Spring Vegetable Garbure, 109, 112–13
Caesar Salad, 137
cakes:
Carrot Cake Cupcakes, 314, 317
Cheesecake, 313
Coconut Cake, 309
Devil’s Food Cupcakes, 314, 316
Grapefruit Cake, 312
Pineapple Upside-Down Cake, 310–11, 310, 311
caramel:
Caramel Pecan Sauce, 344
Caramel Sauce, 344
Caramelized Fennel, 194
Caramelized Savoy Cabbage, 197
Caramelized Sea Scallops, 88, 89
carrot(s):
Carrot Cake Cupcakes, 314, 317
Nantes Carrot Stew, 190
Pickled Radish and Red Onion Salad with Baby Carrots, Lemon Cucumbers, and Torn Croutons, 144
Spring Vegetable Garbure, 109, 112–13
Catalan Beef Stew, 44–45, 46–47
cauliflower:
Cream of Cauliflower Soup with Red Beet Chips, 127, 128–29
Curried Cauliflower-Chickpea Salad, 152–53
cavolo nero (kale): Mushroom Soup with Cavolo Nero and Yukon Gold Potatoes, 119
celery, preparing, 123
Celery Root with Melted Onions, 199
Cerciello, Jeffrey, 102, 104–6, 107
Champagne Grapes with Yellow Curry, 258, 259
Champagne Vinaigrette, 161, 163
Chanterelle Mushrooms with Pea Shoots, 206
Chard, Rainbow, with Raisins, Pine Nuts, and Serrano Ham, 204, 205
Blue Cheese Dressing, 182, 285
Broccolini Salad with Burrata Cheese, 144, 145, 146
Browning Gold, 290
Burrata, 287
Cream Cheese Frosting, 317
Crocodile Tears, 291
Dorset, 290
goat’s-milk cheeses, 286–87, 290, 291
Grilled Cheese Sandwich, 288, 288, 289
Gruyère, 288
handmade mozzarella, 148–49
Hubbardston Blue, 291
Hudson Valley Camembert, 286
Humboldt Fog, 286–87, 286, 291
Humbug Mountain, 291
Manchego el Trigal, 291
Marinated Feta with Olives, 174, 175
Mascarpone Cream, 297
Mornay Sauce, 334
Nancy’s Camembert, 291
Ocooch Mountain, 291
Parmigiano-Reggiano, 287
Pepato, 287
Point Reyes Original Blue Cheese, 285
St. George Matos, 290
Sally Jackson Sheep, 291
sheep’s-milk cheeses, 286, 290, 291
Sottocenere, 290
Stichelton, 290
Summer Vegetable Gratin, 200–201, 202
Taleggio, 287
Tomette d’Helette, 291
Vella Reserve Dry Aged Jack, 290
Westcombe Red, 290
Winchester Super Aged Gouda, 290
Cheesecake, 313
cherry(ies):
Cherry Balsamic Vinegar, 243
Cherry Compote, 343
Cherry Gastrique, 336
Cherry Ice Cream, 320
Cherry Pie, 308
pitting, 243
Potted Bing Cherries with Cherry Balsamic Vinegar and Tarragon, 235, 242–43, 244
Potted Rainier Cherries with Rum and Vanilla Bean, 234-35, 242
chicken, 12–30
Buttermilk Fried Chicken, 13, 16–17
Chicken Brine, 339
Chicken Mar i Muntanya with Shrimp, Mussels, Green Beans, Piquillo Peppers, and Chorizo, 28, 29
Chicken Potpie, 24–25
Chicken Soup with Dumplings, 111, 122–23, 124
Chicken Stock, 339–40
Crispy Braised Chicken Thighs with Olives, Lemon, and Fennel, 30
cutting into pieces, 18–19, 21
Dinner for Dad, 2–3
Pan-Roasted Chicken with Sweet Sausage and Peppers, 20
resting, 17
roasting, 5
Sautéed Chicken Breasts with Tarragon, 27
sizes of, 17
trussing, 23
Whole Roasted Chicken on a Bed of Root Vegetables, 15, 22
chickpeas:
Curried Cauliflower-Chickpea Salad, 152–53
Fried Fresh Chickpeas, 177, 177
chive(s):
Chive Oil, 265
chocolate, 330
Chocolate Buttercream Frosting, 316
Chocolate Chip Cookies, 326, 328–29
Chocolate Ice Cream, 319
Chocolate Sauce, 344
Chocolate Shortbread Cookies, 330–31
Devil’s Food Cupcakes, 314, 316
Mint Chocolate Chip Ice Cream, 320
shavings, 315
chorizo sausage: Chicken Mar i Muntanya with Shrimp, Mussels, Green Beans, Piquillo Peppers, and Chorizo, 28, 29
Chowder, Clam, with Bacon, 126
chutneys, 241–42
Cipollini Onion Chutney with Almonds, 242, 244
Cinnamon Sugar, 296
citrus fruit:
cutting peel from, 142–43, 142
Grapefruit Cake, 312
Little Gem Lettuce Salad with Citrus, Pomegranate, and Honey Vinaigrette, 142–43
see also lemon(s)
clams:
brining, 75
Clam Chowder with Bacon, 126
New England–Style Clambake, 79, 90–91, 91
Clarified Butter, 335
Cobbler, Blueberry, 295, 296, 296
cocoa. See chocolate
Coconut Cake, 309
Cod, Wild, en Persillade, 94, 95
Coffee Ice Cream, 322
Coleslaw, 198
compotes, 242–46
Apricot-Currant Compote, 243, 244, 246
Cherry Compote, 343
Pear with Vanilla Bean Compote, 246
plate testing, 249
Potted Bing Cherries with Cherry Balsamic Vinegar and Tarragon, 235, 242–43, 244
Potted Rainier Cherries with Rum and Vanilla Bean, 234–35, 242
condiments. See basics; lifesavers; sauces
confits:
Confit of Pork Belly, 72, 73–74
Duck Confit, 32–33
Duck Confit with Sautéed Red and Green Cabbage, 33
Frisée and Duck Confit Salad, 167
Garlic Confit and Oil, 266
Quinoa with Duck Confit, 175, 176
Conley, Sue, 287
cookies, 326–31
Chocolate Chip Cookies, 326, 328–29
Chocolate Shortbread Cookies, 330–31
Ice Cream Sandwiches, 293, 325, 325
Linzer Cookies, 331
Shortbread Cookies, 327
corn:
Corn on the Cob with Lime Salt, 188
New England–Style Clambake, 79, 90–91, 91
removing corn silk, 189
Cornish Hens, Roast Poussins or, 26
Court Bouillon, 341
crabs:
Crab Cakes, 83–84
Soft-Shell Crabs on Toast with Piment d’Espelette Aioli, 82
Soft-Shell Crabs with Sweet-and-Sour Cherry Gastrique, 81, 82
crackers, 268
Soup Crackers, 278
Crain, Josh, 193
cranberry(ies): Red Onion–Cranberry Marmalade, 248
Cream Cheese Frosting, 314, 317
Creamed Baby Spinach, 206
Cream of Cauliflower Soup with Red Beet Chips, 127, 128–29
Cream Sauce, 42–43
Creamy Pepper Dressing, 183
Red Potato and Green Bean Salad with Creamy Pepper Dressing, 228–29
crème Anglaise, 318
Crocodile Tears cheese, 291
croutons:
Brioche Croutons, 273
Grilled Asparagus with Prosciutto, Fried Bread, Poached Egg, and Aged Balsamic Vinegar, 156, 157, 275
Iceberg Lettuce Slices with Blue Cheese Dressing, Oven-Roasted Tomatoes, Bacon, and Brioche Croutons, 150, 151
Pickled Radish and Red Onion Salad with Baby Carrots, Lemon Cucumbers, and Torn Croutons, 144
cucumber(s):
Armenian, 114
Marinated Cucumbers, 257
Pickled Radish and Red Onion Salad with Baby Carrots, Lemon Cucumbers, and Torn Croutons, 144
Sun Gold Tomato Gazpacho, 114
Cunningham, Laura, 104
cupcakes:
Carrot Cake Cupcakes, 314, 317
Devil’s Food Cupcakes, 314, 316
currant(s): Apricot-Currant Compote, 243, 244, 246
curry:
Champagne Grapes with Yellow Curry, 258, 259
Curried Cauliflower-Chickpea Salad, 152–53
Curry Vinaigrette, 182
Green Curry, 258
Green Grapes with Green Curry, 258, 259
Lentil and Sweet Potato Soup, 121
Yellow Curry Powder, 336
custard, cooked, 318
D
deep-frying, 172
Buttermilk Fried Chicken, 13, 16–17
Crispy Fried Fish, 100–101
Deep-Fried Herbs, 342
Fingerling or Sweet Potato Chips, 232, 233
Fried Fresh Chickpeas, 177, 177
Fritto Misto, 173
Garlic Chips, 266
Garlic Confit and Oil, 266
dessert basics:
Blackberry Sauce, 343
Caramel Pecan Sauce, 344
Caramel Sauce, 344
Cherry Compote, 343
Chocolate Sauce, 344
Meringue, 344
Strawberry Coulis, 343
Strawberry Sauce, 343
desserts, 292–331
Banana Bread Pudding, 300–301
Blueberry Cobbler, 295, 296, 296
Carrot Cake Cupcakes, 314, 317
Cheesecake, 313
Cherry Ice Cream, 320
Cherry Pie, 308
chocolate, 330
Chocolate Buttercream Frosting, 316
Chocolate Chip Cookies, 326, 328–29
Chocolate Ice Cream, 319
Chocolate Shortbread Cookies, 330–31
Cinnamon Sugar, 296
Coconut Cake, 309
Coffee Ice Cream, 322
cookies, 326–31
Cream Cheese Frosting, 314, 317
crème Anglaise, 318
custard, 318
Devil’s Food Cupcakes, 314, 316
Graham Cracker Crust, 313
Grapefruit Cake, 312
Grapefruit Icing, 312
Grapefruit Syrup, 312
ice cream, 318–22
Ice Cream Sandwiches, 293, 325, 325
Lemon Bars with Meringue, 304, 305, 306
Linzer Cookies, 331
Mascarpone Cream, 297
Mint Chocolate Chip Ice Cream, 320
Panna Cotta, 301
Peaches and Cream, 297
Pecan-Walnut Bars, 306–7
Pineapple Upside-Down Cake, 310–11, 310, 311
Shortbread Cookies, 327
Strawberry Shortcake, 2–3
Vanilla Buttercream Frosting, 314, 315–16
Vanilla Ice Cream, 319
vanilla sauce, 318
Destandau, Pascal, 286
Devil’s Food Cupcakes, 314, 316
Dinner for Dad, 2–3
dog, treats for, 113
Dorset cheese, 290
dough. See pastry
dressings. See salad dressings
duck:
buying, 14
crisping the skin, 35
Duck Confit, 32–33
Duck Confit with Sautéed Red and Green Cabbage, 33
Frisée and Duck Confit Salad, 167
Pan-Roasted Duck Breasts, 34, 35
Quinoa with Duck Confit, 175, 176
duck fat, 226
dumplings:
Chicken Soup with Dumplings, 111, 122–23, 124
quenelle shape, 123
E
eggplant:
Eggplant-Raisin Mustard, 251
Summer Vegetable Gratin, 200–201, 202
eggs, 6
cooking, 342–43
Eggs Flamenco, 208
Grilled Asparagus with Prosciutto, Fried Bread, Poached Egg, and Aged Balsamic Vinegar, 156, 157, 275
Pasta Dough, 338
Roasted Beet and Potato Salad with Soft-Cooked Egg, Smoked Salmon, and Mustard Vinaigrette, 164, 165
endive:
Endive and Arugula Salad with Peaches and Marcona Almonds, 131, 140
Shellfish Salad with Endive, Watercress, and Spicy Herb Vinaigrette, 170, 171
escarole: Heirloom Bean and Escarole Soup, 115
F
farmers’ markets, 7
farro:
Buttered Farro, 219
Farro and Black Rice with Roasted Autumn Squash, 161, 162, 163
fats, 226
basting with, 96
duck, 226
fresh pork belly, 73
in ground meat, 49
marbling in meat, 38
marrow, 226
oil in sautéing, 40
oil temperature, 40
storing Duck Confit, 33
fennel:
Caramelized Fennel, 194
Crispy Braised Chicken Thighs with Olives, Lemon, and Fennel, 30
Fennel Mustard, 251
Feta, Marinated, with Olives, 174, 175
fig(s):
Fig and Balsamic Jam, 245, 246
Fig-Stuffed Roast Pork Loin, 68, 69
Green Bean and Potato Salad with Mission Figs and Ibérico Ham, 158, 159
fish, 78–101
brining, 75
Caramelized Sea Scallops, 88, 89
Court Bouillon, 341
Crab Cakes, 83–84
Crispy Fried Fish, 100–101
draining, 228
Fritto Misto, 173
Maine Lobster Rolls, 84–85, 86
New England–Style Clambake, 79, 90–91, 91
Oil-Poached Sturgeon, 100
Poached Salmon, 93
resting, 62
roasting in salt crust, 98, 99
Salt-Crusted Striped Bass, 98, 99
searing, 89
Smoked Trout Salad, 137
Soft-Shell Crabs on Toast with Piment d’Espelette Aioli, 82
Soft-Shell Crabs with Sweet-and-Sour Cherry Gastrique, 81, 82
sustainability of, 80
tempering, 62
Wild Cod en Persillade, 94, 95
fleur de sel, 52
food handling, 273
food processors, 10
frenching leg of lamb, 60
Frisée and Duck Confit Salad, 167
Fritters, Apple, 298, 298, 299
Fritto Misto, 173
fruits:
cutting peel from, 142–43, 142
pickled, 254–60
see also specific fruits
G
galangal, 258
Garbure, Spring Vegetable, 109, 112–13
gardens, importance of, 154
Garden Herb Vinaigrette, 180–81, 182
garlic:
Garlic Chips, 266
Garlic Confit and Oil, 266
Garlic Puree, 266
Garlic Toast, 280
Puree of Garlic Potatoes, 223
Roasted Garlic Vinaigrette, 179
Sautéed Broccoli Rabe with Garlic and Chile Flakes, 195
Sautéed Shrimp with Garlic, 175, 177
gastrique:
Cherry Gastrique, 336
Soft-Shell Crabs with Sweet-and-Sour Cherry Gastrique, 81, 82
Gazpacho, Sun Gold Tomato, 114
Glazed Sweet Potatoes, 232
Graham Cracker Crust, 313
grains, side dishes, 216–20
grapefruit:
Grapefruit Cake, 312
Grapefruit Icing, 312
Grapefruit Syrup, 312
grapes:
Champagne Grapes with Yellow Curry, 258, 259
Green Grapes with Green Curry, 258, 259
green bean(s):
Chicken Mar i Muntanya with Shrimp, Mussels, Green Beans, Piquillo Peppers, and Chorizo, 28, 29
Green Bean and Potato Salad with Mission Figs and Ibérico Ham, 158, 159
Red Potato and Green Bean Salad with Creamy Pepper Dressing, 228–29
Spring Vegetable Garbure, 109, 112–13
Green Curry, 258
Green Grapes with Green Curry, 258, 259
greens:
Dinner for Dad, 2–3
see also salads; specific greens
Gremolata, 76
Gremolata Butter, 26
grilling:
basics, 345
with charcoal grill, 345
Dinner for Dad, 2–3
with gas, 345
Grilled Asparagus with Prosciutto, Fried Bread, Poached Egg, and Aged Balsamic Vinegar, 156, 157, 275
Grilled Cheese Sandwich, 288, 288, 289
New England–Style Clambake, 79, 90–91, 91
Pomegranate-Glazed Quail, 32
Porterhouse Steak, 51
Quail with Lemon and Herbs, 31
Rubbed and Glazed Pork Spareribs, 66–67
temperature of grill, 345
Grissini (breadsticks), 282, 283
Gruyère, 288
H
ham:
Green Bean and Potato Salad with Mission Figs and Ibérico Ham, 158, 159
Rainbow Chard with Raisins, Pine Nuts, and Serrano Ham, 204, 205
ham hock:
Heirloom Bean and Escarole Soup, 115
Split Pea Soup with Ham Hock, Fresh Peas, and Mint, 116–17, 118
haricots verts. See green bean(s)
Hash, Potato, with Bacon and Melted Onions, 222
Heirloom Bean and Escarole Soup, 115
Heller, Susie, 100
herbs:
aromatics, 76
Deep-Fried Herbs, 342
Garden Herb Vinaigrette, 180–81, 182
Herb and Shallot Butter, 334–35
Herb-Crusted Rack of Lamb with Honey Mustard Glaze, 37, 59
Herbed Toasted Walnuts, 238, 239
Herb Salt, 32–33
infusing oils, 265
Quail with Lemon and Herbs, 31
Sachet, 342
in salads, 134
Spicy Herb Vinaigrette, 179
see also specific herbs
honey:
Honey-Glazed Cipollini Onions, 203
Honey Mustard Glaze, 59
Honey Vinaigrette, 143
Horseradish Cream, 57
Hubbardston Blue cheese, 291
Hudson Valley Camembert, 286
Humboldt Fog cheese, 286–87, 286, 291
Humbug Mountain cheese, 291
I
ice bath, 49
Iceberg Lettuce Slices with Blue Cheese Dressing, Oven-Roasted Tomatoes, Bacon, and Brioche Croutons, 150, 151
ice cream, 318–22
Cherry Ice Cream, 320
Chocolate Ice Cream, 319
Coffee Ice Cream, 322
cooked custard, 318
Ice Cream Sandwiches, 293, 325, 325
Mint Chocolate Chip Ice Cream, 320
Vanilla Ice Cream, 319
ingredients, 7
J
jams and jellies, 246–47
Fig and Balsamic Jam, 245, 246
plate testing, 249
Red Pepper Jelly, 245, 246, 247
Japanese mandoline, 10, 192, 192
Jones, Deborah, 106
K
kaffir lime leaves, 258
kale:
Mushroom Soup with Cavolo Nero and Yukon Gold Potatoes, 119
Tuscan, 119
Keehn, Mary, 286
kitchen environment, 10
kohlrabi: Butter-Braised Radishes, Kohlrabi, and Brussels Sprouts, 186, 196
kosher salt, 52
kumquat: Tangerine-Kumquat Marmalade, 245, 249, 271
L
lamb, 58–63
buying, 61
frenching, 60
Herb-Crusted Rack of Lamb with Honey Mustard Glaze, 37, 59
removing the fell, 60
Roasted Spring Leg of Lamb, 60
Sautéed Lamb Loin Chops, 58
lardons, 150
leek(s):
Baby Leeks, 214
Leek Bread Pudding, 211, 212, 213
Melted Leek Rounds, 337
Mushroom and Leek Salad with Oven-Roasted Tomatoes and Radishes, 160
Pickled Baby Leeks, 255
Spring Vegetable Garbure, 109, 112–13
leftovers, in salads, 166
lemon(s):
Crispy Braised Chicken Thighs with Olives, Lemon, and Fennel, 30
Gremolata, 76
Gremolata Butter, 26
Lemon Aioli, 333
Lemon Bars with Meringue, 304, 305, 306
Lemon Vinaigrette, 182
Preserved Whole Lemons, 263, 264
Quail with Lemon and Herbs, 31
Lentil and Sweet Potato Soup, 121
lettuce:
Iceberg Lettuce Slices with Blue Cheese Dressing, Oven-Roasted Tomatoes, Bacon, and Brioche Croutons, 150, 151
Little Gem Lettuce Salad with Citrus, Pomegranate, and Honey Vinaigrette, 142–43
lifesavers, 234–66
Apricot-Currant Compote, 243, 244, 246
Artichoke Mustard, 251
Artichoke Tapenade, 250, 252–53
Basic Pickling Liquid, 254
Basil Oil, 265
Champagne Grapes with Yellow Curry, 258, 259
Cherry Balsamic Vinegar, 243
Chive Oil, 265
Cipollini Onion Chutney with Almonds, 242, 244
Eggplant-Raisin Mustard, 251
Fennel Mustard, 251
Fig and Balsamic Jam, 245, 246
Garlic Chips, 266
Garlic Confit and Oil, 266
Garlic Puree, 266
Green Curry, 258
Green Grapes with Green Curry, 258, 259
Herbed Toasted Walnuts, 238, 239
infused oils, 265
Marcona Almond Butter, 239, 240
Marinated Cucumbers, 257
Olive Tapenade, 250
Oven-Roasted Tomatoes, 262
Peach Puree, 249
Pear with Vanilla Bean Compote, 246
Pickled Baby Leeks, 255
Pickled Radishes, 257
Pickled Watermelon Rind, 256, 257
plate testing, 249
Potted Bing Cherries with Cherry Balsamic Vinegar and Tarragon, 235, 242–43, 244
Potted Rainier Cherries with Rum and Vanilla Bean, 234–35, 242
Preserved Whole Lemons, 263, 264
Quince Paste, 254
Red Onion–Cranberry Marmalade, 248
Red Pepper Jelly, 245, 246, 247
Red-Wine-Poached Prunes, 254
Slow-Cooker Apple Butter, 249–50
Sweet Onion Tapenade, 250
Tangerine-Kumquat Marmalade, 245, 249, 271
Tomato-Basil Marmalade, 244, 248
Wine-Steeped Golden Raisins, 258
lightbulb moments, 3
buying shellfish, 91
cleaning grill with onion, 51, 51
cutting peel from fruits and vegetables, 142–43, 142
extracting lobster meat, 85, 85
grinding meat, 49
oblique cut, 191
oil temperature, 40
peeling cooked beets, 241, 241
piquillo peppers, 183
pitting cherries, 243
pomegranate seed removal, 143, 143
removing corn silk, 189
removing vegetables from water, 146, 146
searing meat or fish, 89
slow-cooking, 113
spice purchase and storage, 17
touching food, 273
trimming green beans, 229, 229
Lilivois, Eric, 104
lime:
kaffir lime leaves, 258
Lime Salt, 188
Linzer Cookies, 331
Little Gem Lettuce Salad with Citrus, Pomegranate, and Honey Vinaigrette, 142–43
lobster(s):
Maine Lobster Rolls, 84–85, 86
New England–Style Clambake, 79, 90–91, 91
Preparing Lobsters, 342
Saffron Rice Salad with Summer Squash and Maine Lobster, 166
Shellfish Salad with Endive, Watercress, and Spicy Herb Vinaigrette, 170, 171
M
Maine Lobster Rolls, 84–85, 86
Maldon salt, 52
Manchego el Trigal cheese, 291
Marinated Cucumbers, 257
Marinated Feta with Olives, 174, 175
marmalades, 248–49
Peach Puree, 249
plate testing, 249
Red Onion–Cranberry Marmalade, 248
Slow-Cooker Apple Butter, 249–50
Tangerine-Kumquat Marmalade, 245, 249, 271
Tomato-Basil Marmalade, 244, 248
marrow fat, 226
Mascarpone Cream, 297
Mayonnaise, 333
McDonald, Matthew, 278
meatballs:
Meatballs with Pappardelle, 50
meats, 36–77
beef, 41–57
brining, 75
buying, 38
cooking by the cut, 38
cutting across the grain, 54
grinding, 49
ground, safety factor, 48
lamb, 58–63
pork, 64–75
sautéing, 40
searing, 89
tempering, 62
tying a boneless roast, 70–71
veal, 76–77
Mediterranean Melon Salad, 141
membrillo (Quince Paste), 254
Meringue, 344
Lemon Bars with Meringue, 304, 305, 306
mint:
Mint Chocolate Chip Ice Cream, 320
Romano Beans with Mint, 203
Split Pea Soup with Ham Hock, Fresh Peas, and Mint, 116–17, 118
mise-en-place, 11
mixers, 9
Mornay Sauce, 334
Moroccan Salad, 137
mozzarella:
handmade, 148–49
Tomato and Handmade Mozzarella Salad, 148–49, 148, 149
mushroom(s):
Beef Stroganoff, 42–43
Braised Oxtail and Mushroom Tartine, 55
Broccolini Salad with Burrata Cheese, 144, 145, 146
Chanterelle Mushrooms with Pea Shoots, 206
Mushroom and Leek Salad with Oven-Roasted Tomatoes and Radishes, 160
Mushroom Soup with Cavolo Nero and Yukon Gold Potatoes, 119
Mushroom Stock, 341
Pappardelle with Mushrooms, 214–15
music, 10
mussels:
Bouchot, 170
brining, 75
Chicken Mar i Muntanya with Shrimp, Mussels, Green Beans, Piquillo Peppers, and Chorizo, 28, 29
New England–Style Clambake, 79, 90–91, 91
preparing, 170
Shellfish Salad with Endive, Watercress, and Spicy Herb Vinaigrette, 170, 171
mustards, 251
Artichoke Mustard, 251
Eggplant-Raisin Mustard, 251
Fennel Mustard, 251
Honey Mustard Glaze, 59
Mustard Vinaigrette, 179
N
Nancy’s Camembert, 291
Nantes Carrot Stew, 190
New England–Style Clambake, 79, 90–91, 91
nut butters:
Marcona Almond Butter, 239, 240
nuts:
Caramel Pecan Sauce, 344
Cipollini Onion Chutney with Almonds, 242, 244
Endive and Arugula Salad with Peaches and Marcona Almonds, 131, 140
Herbed Toasted Walnuts, 238, 239
Linzer Cookies, 331
Pecan-Walnut Bars, 306–7
Rainbow Chard with Raisins, Pine Nuts, and Serrano Ham, 204, 205
Sautéed Red and Green Cabbage, 198
toasting, 141, 143, 153, 158, 167, 198, 238
O
Ocooch Mountain cheese, 291
oil, 226
Basil Oil, 265
Chive Oil, 265
deep-frying, 172
Garlic Confit and Oil, 266
how hot, 40
infused, 265
Oil-Poached Sturgeon, 100
peppercorns steeped in, 47
on salad bowl, 134
olive(s):
Cerignola, 144
Crispy Braised Chicken Thighs with Olives, Lemon, and Fennel, 30
Marinated Feta with Olives, 174, 175
Olive Tapenade, 250
onion(s):
Celery Root with Melted Onions, 199
cipollini, 203
Cipollini Onion Chutney with Almonds, 242, 244
cleaning grill grate with, 51
Honey-Glazed Cipollini Onions, 203
Melted Onions, 337
Pickled Radish and Red Onion Salad with Baby Carrots, Lemon Cucumbers, and Torn Croutons, 144
Potato Hash with Bacon and Melted Onions, 222
Red Onion–Cranberry Marmalade, 248
Spring Vegetable Garbure, 109, 112–13
Summer Vegetable Gratin, 200–201, 202
Sweet Onion Tapenade, 250
organization, need for, 11
Oxtail, Braised, and Mushroom Tartine, 55
oysters, buying, 80
P
Palladin, Jean-Louis, 154, 272
Crab Cakes, 83–84
Panna Cotta, 301
pan-roasting, 5
Pan-Roasted Chicken with Sweet Sausage and Peppers, 20
Pan-Roasted Duck Breasts, 34, 35
pappardelle:
Meatballs with Pappardelle, 50
Pappardelle with Mushrooms, 214–15
parchment lid, 113, 113, 116, 120, 121
parchment paper, 10
Parmigiano-Reggiano, 287
parsley, 76
Wild Cod en Persillade, 94, 95
pasta:
Meatballs with Pappardelle, 50
Pappardelle with Mushrooms, 214–15
Pasta Dough, 338
pastry:
Graham Cracker Crust, 313
Lemon Bars with Meringue, 304, 305, 306
Pasta Dough, 338
pâte à choux, 122
Pecan-Walnut Bars, 306–7
rolling out dough, 278, 279, 281, 281
pâte à choux, 122
pea(s):
Eggs Flamenco, 208
Split Pea Soup with Ham Hock, Fresh Peas, and Mint, 116–17, 118
Spring Vegetable Garbure, 109, 112–13
peach(es):
Endive and Arugula Salad with Peaches and Marcona Almonds, 131, 140
Peaches and Cream, 297
Peach Puree, 249
peeling, 249
Pear with Vanilla Bean Compote, 246
Pea Shoots, Chanterelle Mushrooms with, 206
pecan(s):
Caramel Pecan Sauce, 344
Pecan-Walnut Bars, 306–7
Pepato cheese, 287
pepper:
Creamy Pepper Dressing, 183
Peppercorn-Crusted Beef Tenderloin, 47
peppercorns steeped in oil, 47
piment d’Espelette, 208
pepper mills, 10
peppers:
Chicken Mar i Muntanya with Shrimp, Mussels, Green Beans, Piquillo Peppers, and Chorizo, 28, 29
Eggs Flamenco, 208
Pan-Roasted Chicken with Sweet Sausage and Peppers, 20
Piquillo Pepper Vinaigrette, 182
Red Pepper Jelly, 245, 246, 247
Romesco Sauce, 333–34
Sun Gold Tomato Gazpacho, 114
persillade, 95
Wild Cod en Persillade, 94, 95
pickles, 254–60
Basic Pickling Liquid, 254
Champagne Grapes with Yellow Curry 258, 259
Green Grapes with Green Curry, 258, 259
Marinated Cucumbers, 257
Pickled Baby Leeks, 255
Pickled Radish and Red Onion Salad with Baby Carrots, Lemon Cucumbers, and Torn Croutons, 144
Pickled Radishes, 257
Pickled Salad, 136
Pickled Watermelon Rind, 256, 257
Wine-Steeped Golden Raisins, 258
Pie, Cherry, 308
piment d’Espelette, 208
Piment d’Espelette Aioli, 333
Soft-Shell Crabs on Toast with Piment d’Espelette Aioli, 82
pineapple:
Pineapple Upside-Down Cake, 310–11, 310, 311
pine nuts:
Rainbow Chard with Raisins, Pine Nuts, and Serrano Ham, 204, 205
Piquillo Pepper Vinaigrette, 182
pistachio(s):
Sautéed Red and Green Cabbage, 198
toasting, 198
plate testing, 249
poaching, 6
Butter-Poached Marble Potatoes, 223
eggs, 156
Oil-Poached Sturgeon, 100
Poached Salmon, 93
Red-Wine-Poached Prunes, 254
Point, Fernand, 226
Point Reyes Original Blue Cheese, 285
Polenta, 218
pomegranate:
Little Gem Lettuce Salad with Citrus, Pomegranate, and Honey Vinaigrette, 142–43
Pomegranate-Glazed Quail, 31–32
pork, 64–75
about, 67
Braised Pork Belly, 74
Brined Pork Tenderloin, 64
Confit of Pork Belly, 72, 73–74
fat cap of, 65
Fig-Stuffed Roast Pork Loin, 68, 69
fresh pork belly, 73
Meatballs with Pappardelle, 50
Pork Brine, 339
Rack of Pork Arista, 65
Roasted Pork Short Ribs, 66
Rubbed and Glazed Pork Spareribs, 66–67
tying a boneless roast, 70–71
see also bacon
Porterhouse Steak, 51
potato(es), 221–33
Butter-Poached Marble Potatoes, 223
buying, 158
Catalan Beef Stew, 44–45, 46–47
Clam Chowder with Bacon, 126
Crisped Roasted Marble Potatoes, 224, 224
Dinner for Dad, 2–3
Fingerling or Sweet Potato Chips, 232, 233
Green Bean and Potato Salad with Mission Figs and Ibérico Ham, 158, 159
marble-sized, 224
Mushroom Soup with Cavolo Nero and Yukon Gold Potatoes, 119
New England–Style Clambake, 79, 90–91, 91
Potato Hash with Bacon and Melted Onions, 222
Puree of Garlic Potatoes, 223
Red Potato and Green Bean Salad with Creamy Pepper Dressing, 228–29
Roasted Beet and Potato Salad with Soft-Cooked Egg, Smoked Salmon, and Mustard Vinaigrette, 164, 165
Scallion Potato Cakes, 230, 231
Smashed Roasted Marble Potatoes, 224
Spring Vegetable Garbure, 109, 112–13
Potpie, Chicken, 24–25
pots, set half off burner, 340
poultry, 12–35
Duck Confit, 32–33
Duck Confit with Sautéed Red and Green Cabbage, 33
Frisée and Duck Confit Salad, 167
Pan-Roasted Duck Breasts, 34, 35
Pomegranate-Glazed Quail, 31–32
Quail with Lemon and Herbs, 31
Quinoa with Duck Confit, 175, 176
Roast Poussins or Cornish Hens, 26
trussing, 23
see also chicken
Preserved Whole Lemons, 263, 264
Prime Rib Roast, Blowtorch, 56
propane torches, 56
prosciutto: Grilled Asparagus with Prosciutto, Fried Bread, Poached Egg, and Aged Balsamic Vinegar, 156, 157, 275
Prunes, Red-Wine-Poached, 254
pudding, savory: Leek Bread Pudding, 211, 212, 213
puddings, sweet:
Banana Bread Pudding, 300–301
cooked custard, 318
Panna Cotta, 301
Pug’s Leap Bûche cheese, 286, 291
Q
quail:
Pomegranate-Glazed Quail, 31–32
Quail with Lemon and Herbs, 31
quenelles, 123
Quince Paste, 254
Quinoa with Duck Confit, 175, 176
R
racks, uses for, 101, 101, 228
radish(es):
Butter-Braised Radishes, Kohlrabi, and Brussels Sprouts, 186, 196
Mushroom and Leek Salad with Oven-Roasted Tomatoes and Radishes, 160
Pickled Radish and Red Onion Salad with Baby Carrots, Lemon Cucumbers, and Torn Croutons, 144
Pickled Radishes, 257
Ragù, Borlotti Bean, 210
Rainbow Chard with Raisins, Pine Nuts, and Serrano Ham, 204, 205
raisin(s):
Eggplant-Raisin Mustard, 251
Rainbow Chard with Raisins, Pine Nuts, and Serrano Ham, 204, 205
Wine-Steeped Golden Raisins, 258
Red Pepper Jelly, 245, 246, 247
rice:
Calasparra, 220
cooling and reheating, 220
Farro and Black Rice with Roasted Autumn Squash, 161, 162, 163
Saffron Rice Salad with Summer Squash and Maine Lobster, 166, 220
roasting, 6
Blowtorch Prime Rib Roast, 56
Brined Pork Tenderloin, 64
chicken, 5
Crisped Roasted Marble Potatoes, 224, 224
Farro and Black Rice with Roasted Autumn Squash, 161, 162, 163
Fig-Stuffed Roast Pork Loin, 68, 69
Herb-Crusted Rack of Lamb with Honey Mustard Glaze, 37, 59
Oven-Roasted Tomatoes, 262
Rack of Pork Arista, 65
Roasted Beet and Potato Salad with Soft-Cooked Egg, Smoked Salmon, and Mustard Vinaigrette, 164, 165
Roasted Pork Short Ribs, 66
Roasted Spring Leg of Lamb, 60
Roast Poussins or Cornish Hens, 26
Salt-Crusted Striped Bass, 98, 99
Santa Maria–Style Tri-Tip, 54
Slow-Roasted Veal Shank, 76
Smashed Roasted Marble Potatoes, 224
tying a boneless roast, 70–71
Whole Roasted Chicken on a Bed of Root Vegetables, 15, 22
Roberts, Paul, 104
Romano Beans with Mint, 203
Romesco Sauce, 333–34
Rubbed and Glazed Pork Spareribs, 66–67
rum: Potted Rainier Cherries with Rum and Vanilla Bean, 234-35, 242
S
Sachet, 342
Saffron Rice Salad with Summer Squash and Maine Lobster, 166, 220
St. George Matos cheese, 290
salad dressings, 178–83
Anchovy Dressing, 183
Bacon Vinaigrette, 179
Blue Cheese Dressing, 182, 285
Buttermilk Dressing, 182
Champagne Vinaigrette, 161, 163
Coleslaw, 198
Creamy Pepper Dressing, 183
Curry Vinaigrette, 182
Garden Herb Vinaigrette, 180–81, 182
Honey Vinaigrette, 143
Lemon Vinaigrette, 182
Mustard Vinaigrette, 179
Piquillo Pepper Vinaigrette, 182
Roasted Garlic Vinaigrette, 179
Sherry Vinaigrette, 179
Simple Vinaigrette, 179
Spicy Herb Vinaigrette, 179
see also specific salad recipes
salads, 130–83
arugula, with Breaded Veal Cutlets, 77
basics, 134–35
Broccolini Salad with Burrata Cheese, 144, 145, 146
Caesar Salad, 137
Coleslaw, 198
combinations, 136–37
Curried Cauliflower-Chickpea Salad, 152–53
Endive and Arugula Salad with Peaches and Marcona Almonds, 131, 140
Farro and Black Rice with Roasted Autumn Squash, 161, 162, 163
Frisée and Duck Confit Salad, 167
Fritto Misto, 173
Green Bean and Potato Salad with Mission Figs and Ibérico Ham, 158, 159
Grilled Asparagus with Prosciutto, Fried Bread, Poached Egg, and Aged Balsamic Vinegar, 156, 157, 275
Iceberg Lettuce Slices with Blue Cheese Dressing, Oven-Roasted Tomatoes, Bacon, and Brioche Croutons, 150, 151
leftovers in, 166
Little Gem Lettuce Salad with Citrus, Pomegranate, and Honey Vinaigrette, 142–43
Marinated Feta with Olives, 174, 175
Mediterranean Melon Salad, 141
mixed green, 135
Moroccan Salad, 137
multicomponent, 135
Mushroom and Leek Salad with Oven-Roasted Tomatoes and Radishes, 160
Pickled Radish and Red Onion Salad with Baby Carrots, Lemon Cucumbers, and Torn Croutons, 144
Pickled Salad, 136
Quinoa with Duck Confit, 175, 176
Red Potato and Green Bean Salad with Creamy Pepper Dressing, 228–29
Roasted Beet and Potato Salad with Soft-Cooked Egg, Smoked Salmon, and Mustard Vinaigrette, 164, 165
Saffron Rice Salad with Summer Squash and Maine Lobster, 166, 220
Shellfish Salad with Endive, Watercress, and Spicy Herb Vinaigrette, 170, 171
Smoked Trout Salad, 137
Spring Salad, 137
Succotash Salad, 137
Tomato and Handmade Mozzarella Salad, 148–49, 148, 149
Waldorf Salad, 136
Sally Jackson Sheep cheese, 291
salmon:
Poached Salmon, 93
Roasted Beet and Potato Salad with Soft-Cooked Egg, Smoked Salmon, and Mustard Vinaigrette, 164, 165
in blanching vegetables, 147
brining meats and fish, 75
Corn on the Cob with Lime Salt, 188
Herb Salt, 32–33
Salt-Crusted Striped Bass, 98, 99
sandwiches:
Grilled Cheese Sandwich, 288, 288, 289
Maine Lobster Rolls, 84–85, 86
Santa Maria–Style Tri-Tip, 54
sauces:
Aioli, 333
basil cream, 149
Béchamel, 24–25
Beef Stock, 340
Cherry Gastrique, 336
Chicken Stock, 339–40
Court Bouillon, 341
Cream Sauce, 42–43
dessert, See sauces, dessert
Gremolata Butter, 26
Honey Mustard Glaze, 59
Horseradish Cream, 57
Lemon Aioli, 333
marinade for quail, 31
marinade for steak, 53
Mayonnaise, 333
Mornay Sauce, 334
Mushroom Stock, 341
nut butters, 240
Oven-Roasted Tomato Sauce, 333
Piment d’Espelette Aioli, 333
pomegranate marinade, 31–32
Red Wine Reduction, 41
Romesco Sauce, 333–34
Vegetable Stock, 341
sauces, dessert:
Blackberry Sauce, 343
Caramel Pecan Sauce, 344
Caramel Sauce, 344
Chocolate Sauce, 344
Grapefruit Syrup, 312
Mascarpone Cream, 297
Strawberry Coulis, 343
Strawberry Sauce, 343
vanilla sauce (crème Anglaise), 318
sausages:
Chicken Mar i Muntanya with Shrimp, Mussels, Green Beans, Piquillo Peppers, and Chorizo, 28, 29
New England–Style Clambake, 79, 90–91, 91
Pan-Roasted Chicken with Sweet Sausage and Peppers, 20
sautéing, 5
and basting, 96
Duck Confit with Sautéed Red and Green Cabbage, 33
how much oil in, 40
meats, 40
Sautéed Broccoli Rabe with Garlic and Chile Flakes, 195
Sautéed Chicken Breasts with Tarragon, 27
Sautéed Lamb Loin Chops, 58
Sautéed Red and Green Cabbage, 198
Sautéed Shrimp with Garlic, 175, 177
scales, 10
Scallion Potato Cakes, 230, 231
scallops:
Caramelized Sea Scallops, 88, 89
Shellfish Salad with Endive, Watercress, and Spicy Herb Vinaigrette, 170, 171
Schad, Judith, 286
Schwartz, Joshua, 106
scissors, 229
searing meat or fish, 89
sea salt, 52
sel gris (gray salt), 52
shallot(s): Herb and Shallot Butter, 334–35
shellfish:
Court Bouillon, 341
Shellfish Salad with Endive, Watercress, and Spicy Herb Vinaigrette, 170, 171
see also fish; specific shellfish
Sherry Vinaigrette, 179
shortbread:
Chocolate Shortbread Cookies, 330–31
Shortbread Cookies, 327
short ribs:
Beef Stroganoff, 42–43
Braised Beef Short Ribs, 41–42
Roasted Pork Short Ribs, 66
shrimp:
Chicken Mar i Muntanya with Shrimp, Mussels, Green Beans, Piquillo Peppers, and Chorizo, 28, 29
New England–Style Clambake, 79, 90–91, 91
preparing, 170
Sautéed Shrimp with Garlic, 175, 177
Shellfish Salad with Endive, Watercress, and Spicy Herb Vinaigrette, 170, 171
side dishes, 184–233
grains, 216–20
potatoes, 221–33
vegetables, 184–215
see also vegetables; specific vegetables
Simple Vinaigrette, 179
Skirt Steak, Marinated, 39, 53
slow-cookers and slow-cooking, 10, 113
Slow-Cooker Apple Butter, 249–50
Slow-Cooker Beans, 337–38
slurry, 308
Smashed Roasted Marble Potatoes, 224
Smith, Peggy, 287
Smoked Trout Salad, 137
Sottocenere cheese, 290
Soup Crackers, 278
Beef Stock, 340
Chicken Soup with Dumplings, 111, 122–23, 124
Chicken Stock, 339–40
Clam Chowder with Bacon, 126
Court Bouillon, 341
Cream of Cauliflower Soup with Red Beet Chips, 127, 128–29
Heirloom Bean and Escarole Soup, 115
Lentil and Sweet Potato Soup, 121
Mushroom Soup with Cavolo Nero and Yukon Gold Potatoes, 119
Mushroom Stock, 341
Split Pea Soup with Ham Hock, Fresh Peas, and Mint, 116–17, 118
Spring Vegetable Garbure, 109, 112–13
Sun Gold Tomato Gazpacho, 114
vegetables in, 110
Vegetable Stock, 341
Spareribs, Rubbed and Glazed Pork, 66–67
spices:
buying, 17
storage of, 17
Yellow Curry Powder, 336
Spicy Herb Vinaigrette, 179
Spinach, Creamed Baby, 206
Split Pea Soup with Ham Hock, Fresh Peas, and Mint, 116–17, 118
spoons, 10
Spring Salad, 137
Spring Vegetable Garbure, 109, 112–13
squash:
Farro and Black Rice with Roasted Autumn Squash, 161, 162, 163
Saffron Rice Salad with Summer Squash and Maine Lobster, 166
Summer Vegetable Gratin, 200–201, 202
staff meal, 107
staples. See lifesavers
steaks, beef. See beef
stews:
Asparagus and Tomato-Bacon Stew, 193
Borlotti Bean Ragù, 210
Braised Oxtail and Mushroom Tartine, 55
Catalan Beef Stew, 44–45, 46–47
Nantes Carrot Stew, 190
Stichelton cheese, 290
stocks:
Beef Stock, 340
Chicken Stock, 339–40
Mushroom Stock, 341
Vegetable Stock, 341
strawberry(ies):
Strawberry Coulis, 343
Strawberry Sauce, 343
Strawberry Shortcake, 2–3
Stroganoff, Beef, 42–43
Sturgeon, Oil-Poached, 100
Succotash Salad, 137
sugar:
Cinnamon Sugar, 296
softening brown sugar, 326
Summer Vegetable Gratin, 200–201, 202
Sun Gold Tomato Gazpacho, 114
sweet potato(es):
Fingerling or Sweet Potato Chips, 232, 233
Glazed Sweet Potatoes, 232
Lentil and Sweet Potato Soup, 121
T
Taleggio cheese, 287
Tangerine-Kumquat Marmalade, 245, 249, 271
tapenades, 250
Artichoke Tapenade, 250, 252–53
Olive Tapenade, 250
Sweet Onion Tapenade, 250
tarragon:
Potted Bing Cherries with Cherry Balsamic Vinegar and Tarragon, 235, 242–43, 244
Sautéed Chicken Breasts with Tarragon, 27
tempering meats and fish, 62
Toast, Garlic, 280
tomato(es):
Asparagus and Tomato-Bacon Stew, 193
Iceberg Lettuce Slices with Blue Cheese Dressing, Oven-Roasted Tomatoes, Bacon, and Brioche Croutons, 150, 151
Mushroom and Leek Salad with Oven-Roasted Tomatoes and Radishes, 160
Oven-Roasted Tomatoes, 262
Oven-Roasted Tomato Sauce, 333
Romesco Sauce, 333–34
Summer Vegetable Gratin, 200–201, 202
Sun Gold Tomato Gazpacho, 114
Tomato and Handmade Mozzarella Salad, 148–49, 148, 149
Tomato-Basil Marmalade, 244, 248
Tomette d’Helette cheese, 291
tri-tip roast, Santa Maria–Style Tri-Tip, 54
trout, Smoked Trout Salad, 137
trussing a chicken, 23
tuna, Fresh Tuna Salad, 168, 169
twine, 10
V
vanilla bean:
Pear with Vanilla Bean Compote, 246
Potted Rainier Cherries with Rum and Vanilla Bean, 234–35, 242
Vanilla Buttercream Frosting, 315–16
Vanilla Ice Cream, 319
vanilla sauce (crème Anglaise), 318
veal:
Breaded Veal Cutlets, 77
Meatballs with Pappardelle, 50
Slow-Roasted Veal Shank, 76
vegetables:
blanching, 147
Court Bouillon, 341
cutting peel from, 142–43, 142
Fritto Misto, 173
oblique cut, 191
pickled, 254–60
side dishes, 184–215
slicing with mandoline, 192, 192
in soups, 110
Spring Vegetable Garbure, 109, 112–13
Summer Vegetable Gratin, 200–201, 202
Vegetable Stock, 341
Whole Roasted Chicken on a Bed of Root Vegetables, 15, 22
see also specific vegetables
Vella Reserve Dry Aged Jack cheese, 290
verjus, 178
vinaigrettes, 178
Bacon Vinaigrette, 179
broken, 141
Champagne Vinaigrette, 161, 163
Curry Vinaigrette, 182
Garden Herb Vinaigrette, 180–81, 182
Honey Vinaigrette, 143
Lemon Vinaigrette, 182
Mustard Vinaigrette, 179
Piquillo Pepper Vinaigrette, 182
Roasted Garlic Vinaigrette, 179
Sherry Vinaigrette, 179
Simple Vinaigrette, 179
Spicy Herb Vinaigrette, 179
vinegar, 5
Fig and Balsamic Jam, 245, 246
Grilled Asparagus with Prosciutto, Fried Bread, Poached Egg, and Aged Balsamic Vinegar, 156, 157, 275
Potted Bing Cherries with Cherry Balsamic Vinegar and Tarragon, 235, 242–43, 244
Vita-Mix, 9
W
Wabash Cannonball cheese, 286, 291
Waldorf Salad, 136
walnut(s):
Herbed Toasted Walnuts, 238, 239
Pecan-Walnut Bars, 306–7
Watermelon Rind, Pickled, 256, 257
watercress: Shellfish Salad with Endive, Watercress, and Spicy Herb Vinaigrette, 170, 171
Westcombe Red cheese, 290
Winchester Super Aged Gouda, 290
wine:
Champagne Grapes with Yellow Curry, 258, 259
Court Bouillon, 341
Pear with Vanilla Bean Compote, 246
Red-Wine-Poached Prunes, 254
Red Wine Reduction, 41
Sherry Vinaigrette, 179
Wine-Steeped Golden Raisins, 258
Y
Yellow Curry Powder, 336
Champagne Grapes with Yellow Curry, 258, 259
Z
zucchini: