the Tahoe Queen
DOWNHILL SKIING AND SNOWBOARDING
a hot-air balloon ride.
Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.
S Safari Rose Cruise: Take a cruise on this 80-foot luxurious yacht, which has six bathrooms, a sun deck, a fireplace, and a heated salon for chilly evenings. (click here).
S Reno Tahoe Helicopters: For a little shot of adrenaline, sign up for a helicopter tour out of South Lake Tahoe Airport. Tours of various lengths are available, offering bird’s-eye views of Emerald Bay, Sand Harbor, and the South Shore (click here).
S Lake Tahoe Balloons: This memorable excursion includes an early-morning boat cruise on the lake, launch of the hot-air balloon from the boat deck, a view-filled flight through the skies above Lake Tahoe, and a champagne toast after landing (click here).
S Heavenly Gondola: No matter what time of year, don’t miss taking a scenic gondola ride at Heavenly Ski Resort. On the uphill leg, be sure to disembark at the overlook platform and check out the view from 9,123 feet (click here).
S Inspiration Point: The blue-green expanse of Emerald Bay, with magical Fannette Island poking up from the lake’s surface, is one of the most photographed sights in the United States. The drive-up overlook at Inspiration Point is one of the best spots to get a few snapshots (click here).
S Eagle Lake: You’ll need to get a very early start to beat the crowds on the trail to Eagle Lake, but this short although somewhat steep walk is worth the effort. The hike takes in the sight and sound of cascading Eagle Creek, the granite shores of a picturesque glacial cirque lake in the Desolation Wilderness, and fine views of distant Emerald Bay (click here).
S Pope-Baldwin Bike Path: You don’t have to be Lance Armstrong to ride this level, paved bike trail, which travels past some of the South Shore’s greatest sights (click here).
S Kayaking: Paddle your own boat through the sparkling waters of Emerald Bay or along the boulder-strewn beaches of the East Shore in the company of a knowledgeable guide. Confident beginners can forego the tour, simply rent a kayak, and set out on their own (click here).
Far and away the most populated stretch of Lake Tahoe shoreline is the South Shore, with most of the development centered in the twin cities of South Lake Tahoe (in California) and Stateline (in Nevada).
However, at first glance neither of these cities delivers much in the way of alpine charm. Consisting mainly of a haphazard, unplanned strip of commercial enterprises lined up along U.S. 50 (which is euphemistically called “Lake Tahoe Boulevard” in this in-town stretch), the cities of the South Shore have long suffered from a mild case of urban blight. If you are expecting to see a quaint mountain village perched along the shores of the lake, you won’t find it here, at least not along the main thoroughfare.
Fortunately, an effort at self-improvement is being made. Since the late 1990s, the construction of two new “village” complexes, comprising lodgings, restaurants, and shops—one at Ski Run Boulevard and the other clustered around the Heavenly gondola between Heavenly Village Way and Stateline Avenue—has forced the removal of many old and unsightly motels, fast-food restaurants, and gas stations. Since these new village centers encourage walking, not driving, they are much more in tune with Lake Tahoe’s natural environment, and they have added a certain mountain-style metropolitan flair to the downtown area of the South Shore.
Despite the preponderance of strip malls and a near-constant parade of automobile traffic, there is still a wealth of scenic beauty to be found on the South Shore. Even busy U.S. 50 has occasional spots where drivers are treated to views of Lake Tahoe’s mesmerizing blue waters. And just a short drive from the “Y”—the busiest intersection in South Lake Tahoe, where U.S. 50 and Highway 89 divide—lies the eastern stretch of the Desolation Wilderness, one of the most stunning glacier-sculpted landscapes in the Sierra Nevada. Hikers and backpackers can spend weeks exploring its miles of trails, visiting dozens of alpine lakes, and climbing a banquet of peaks and precipices. Outside the wilderness area, a host of other outdoor activities are possible in the grand Tahoe scenery—mountain biking, boating, golfing, fishing, horseback riding, and rock climbing, to name a few—as well as the obvious multitude of winter sports—alpine skiing, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, snowmobiling, and sledding, among others.
For the less ambitious, much can be seen right from your car windows. Heading west and north from the cities of the South Shore, travelers enjoy a scenic ride up Highway 89/Emerald Bay Road to Emerald Bay itself, one of the most photographed places in the United States. Along the way, pristine stretches of Tahoe shoreline await your blanket and picnic basket. There are historic sites to tour, boat cruises to take, open-air trolleys to ride, and outdoor festivals to enjoy. For those more inclined toward indoor recreation, there are shops and art galleries to browse in, and the 24-hour lure of the casinos. Quite simply, there is such an abundance of fun things to do in the South Shore region that it’s impossible not to enjoy a vacation here.
Many visitors spend a week or more in and around the South Shore, both in the winter and summer seasons. Even if you aren’t a casino-and-nightlife kind of person, the South Shore offers enough activities to keep anyone busy for several days, no matter what their interests, and no matter what the season. Just visiting a few of the South Shore’s sightseeing highlights will require a minimum of two days.
Be sure to plan enough time to ride the Heavenly gondola, take a boat cruise on the Tahoe Queen or the Safari Rose, and drive or ride public transportation to scenic Inspiration Point at Emerald Bay. History buffs will want to allow a few days just to visit the numerous museums and historic sites in the area, including Vikingsholm Castle and Tallac Historic Site. Outdoor recreationists will be hard-pressed to squeeze in enough hiking, biking, boating, fishing, or snow-related sports before their vacation ends, no matter how much time they have allotted. At a minimum, even the most casual adventurer should take the short hike to Eagle Lake, go for a spin on the paved Pope-Baldwin Bike Path, and spend a few hours paddling around the lake in a rental kayak.
One of the most popular activities at Lake Tahoe is cruising around the lake in a Mark Twain-style stern-wheeler paddleboat. On the South Shore, the Tahoe Queen operates out of Ski Run Marina and the MS Dixie II departs from Zephyr Cove Marina. Both boats are operated year-round by Lake Tahoe Cruises (775/589-4906 or 800/238-2463, www.zephyrcove.com). The vessels are large enough to hold a few hundred people, but even so, the tours are so popular that they sometimes sell out.
The 400-passenger MS Dixie II ($51 adults, $15 children under 12; dinner cruises $83 adults, $35 children; $8 parking fee) offers daily cruises year-round, including a Sunday brunch cruise along Tahoe’s East Shore, a sunset dinner/dance cruise, and an Emerald Bay sightseeing cruise. The video Sunken Treasures of Lake Tahoe plays below deck during the daytime cruises, but few passengers bother to watch it. Instead, most head above deck to enjoy the fresh air, sunshine, and lake views. In winter, guests can choose to relax on the enclosed lower decks, or head out onto the open third deck for snapping pictures and soaking up the winter sun. Daytime cruises last about 2 hours; the sunset dinner/dance cruise lasts 3.5 hours and includes a four-course meal and a live band. Cocktails and wine are available for purchase.
The Tahoe Queen ($51 adults, $15 children 11 and under), a smaller paddleboat based out of Ski Run Marina, offers a similar array of cruises and also features a glass bottom that permits riders to peer into the clear Tahoe depths. The Tahoe Queen holds a few cruises that are more interesting than the standard tours, including Santa’s Christmas Cruise on a few December dates, and in the summer months, Mark Twain’s Tales of Tahoe Cruise, with actor McAvoy Layne portraying Mark Twain. Layne regales guests with tales of Twain’s adventures at Lake Tahoe in 1861. Most cruises last 2.5 hours. The Tahoe Queen’s sunset dinner cruise ($83 adults, $35 children) includes appetizers, dinner, and dessert, plus a live band.
If authenticity is important to you, you’ll choose the Tahoe Queen over the MS Dixie II. The Tahoe Queen is an honest-to-goodness Mississippi paddle wheeler, with its paddles actually propelling the boat. It’s also the smaller of the two cruising vessels, so you get a more intimate experience.
For locals and frequent visitors who relish the chance the get out on the lake, a season pass ($99) is available that’s good on both boats.
The 80-foot classic yacht Safari Rose (888/867-6394 or 775/588-1881, www.tahoecruises.com, $85 adults, $45 children) is a teak-paneled, plushly upholstered vessel that offers a three-hour barbecue cruise (11am-2pm daily in summer). Highlights include cruising past the Henry J. Kaiser estate, where The Godfather Part II was filmed, the luxurious lakefront homes at Meeks and Rubicon Bays, and a tour of Emerald Bay. A complete barbecue lunch is cooked on board and served to guests amid the splendor of Emerald Bay. The Safari Rose departs from Round Hill Pines Resort on the East Shore, but a courtesy shuttle is available from all South Shore lodgings. On summer evenings, the Safari Rose also offers a sunset cruise at 7pm, with beer, wine, and champagne.
Since 1950, the wooden cruiser Tahoe (775/230-8907, www.cruisetahoe.com, $139 adults, not recommended for children, 9:30am departure Tues.-Sun. in summer, advance reservations required) has been carrying visitors across the waters of Lake Tahoe. This meticulously restored 40-foot yacht carries a maximum of 18 passengers from Zephyr Cove Marina to the East Shore’s Thunderbird Lodge. At the lodge, passengers disembark for a guided walking tour of the French-style chateau built in the 1930s for real estate tycoon George Whittell Jr. and his French-born wife, Elia. This architectural oddity is listed in the National Register of Historic Places. The tour covers the estate’s grounds, lighthouse room, old lodge, maid’s quarters, original kitchen, and the 600-foot-long underground tunnel leading to the boathouse. A deli-style buffet lunch is served on the property.
MontBleu Resort has its own tour boat plying the blue waters of Lake Tahoe. The 1966 classic yacht Bleu Wave (775/588-9283 or 866/413-0985, www.tahoebleuwave.com), a whopping 72 feet long, can accommodate up to 49 passengers. The boat departs from Round Hill Pines Marina for a two-hour cruise (11am-1pm, $65 adults, $33 children ages 4-12, daily year-round) to Emerald Bay, with lunch and drinks provided. A later tour leaves at 2pm daily ($55 adults, $27 children ages 4-12, no lunch, daily year-round).
For some people, the only speed that holds their interest is “fast.” The Tahoe Thunder (530/544-5387 or 530/544-2942, www.action-watersports.com, $69 adults, $35 children 12 and under) boasts the fastest Coast Guard-inspected public speedboat ride on the lake. Operating out of Timber Cove Marina, across the highway from the Safeway store, the Tahoe Thunder is a 33-foot bullet boat with horsepower that tops 800. Don’t forget your jacket for the chilling breeze brought on by the high g-forces, and maybe your earplugs for the roar of the engine. Only 12 passengers fit on board this little speedster, so the ride to Emerald Bay is intimate as well as fast.
At the other end of the spectrum from the loud speedboat Tahoe Thunder is the 65-foot sailing yacht Windsong (530/544-5387 or 530/544-2942, www.action-watersports.com, $59 adults, $30 children 12 and under), which also operates out of Timber Cove Marina. The sailing yacht holds only 24 passengers, guaranteeing that you’ll hear only the sound of the wind rippling through the sails. The summer-only two-hour cruise plies the waters along the South Shore.
The 65 foot Windsong sails along the South Shore.
On the north side of the Y, historic Camp Richardson has its own cruising yacht, the 55-foot Rum Runner (530/542-6570, www.camprichardson.com, $59 adults, $24 children 12 and under), named for one of the South Shore’s most popular cocktails. Heading to Emerald Bay and back, the 1.5-hour tours leave twice a day in summer (1pm and 3:30pm) with only 30 passengers on board. Beer, wine, and cocktails are available for purchase.
Lake Tahoe looks huge from the ground, so just imagine what it looks like from an aerial perspective. To see if you’ve imagined correctly, take a tour with Reno Tahoe Helicopters (1901 Airport Rd., South Lake Tahoe, 530/544-2211, www.renotahoehelicopters.com, $70-325 per person). The only helicopter tour operator on the lake, owner Claudio Bellotto has two flying machines based at South Lake Tahoe Airport. Both are surprisingly quiet for both passengers and passersby (unlike the helicopters that buzz the Hawaiian Islands, these can’t be heard from the ground). Choose from tours that last from 10 minutes ($70 per person) to an hour ($325 per person), offering bird’s-eye views of Emerald Bay, Sand Harbor, and the South Shore. The sunset tour is a favorite, as is the Fourth of July fireworks tour. In 2010, Bellotto began offering “flying weddings” in addition to his regular tours. His Bell 206 helicopter has adequate room for a minister, best man, and maid of honor in addition to the bride and groom.
South Shore visitors longing to go up, up, and away can do just that with Lake Tahoe Balloons (530/544-1221 or 800/872-9294, www.laketahoeballoons.com, 5am-7am launch time, May-Oct., $295 per person). The company launches their hot-air balloon not from land but from the surface of the lake, via the Tahoe Flyer, the world’s only certified balloon launch and recovery boat. Balloon rides are offered in the early-morning hours only, when the wind is relatively calm. A continental breakfast is served on board the boat as it cruises to the designated launch site on the lake. Passengers watch as the balloon is inflated mid-lake, and then they climb aboard its wicker basket, or gondola, for a one-hour flight. During the flight, passengers will fly as high as 3,000 feet above the water’s surface, enjoying a bird’s-eye view of the entire Tahoe basin, and on the clearest days, a southward view all the way to the peaks of Yosemite National Park. It’s an amazing and somewhat daunting sensation to be propelled only by blasts of hot air, the skill of the balloon pilot, and the whim of the wind. After the flight, passengers are treated to a traditional post-flight champagne toast. The entire adventure takes about four hours.
Get up early and take a balloon ride over Lake Tahoe.
If helicopters and hot-air balloons are too tame for you, consider a tour in a paraglider with a professional USHPA Certified Tandem Instructor at Lake Tahoe Paragliding (530/318-1859, www.laketahoeparagliding.com, $175 per person). Yes, it’s just you and your tandem instructor, tethered to what amounts to little more than a parachute, soaring above Lake Tahoe. No motor, no fuselage, just the two of you at the mercy of the Tahoe breeze. Anyone who weighs between 60 and 215 pounds can take part in this adventure, regardless of fitness level. Both pilot and passenger are hooked into the glider, with the passenger positioned in front for the best view. As passenger, your only job is to lean left or right when your pilot tells you to do so. After an hour’s flight, you’ll land on the Tahoe sand and help to pack up the gear. Still not enough of an adrenaline rush? Then learn how to fly solo at Lake Tahoe Paragliding’s school; an array of courses provide all the instruction you need to get your beginner, intermediate, or advanced rating.
Just a few blocks east of the Stateline casinos at Kahle Drive and U.S. 50 lies a beautiful preserved area that is popular with joggers, dog walkers, and nature lovers. Kahle Park (775/586-7271, on the Nevada side of the state line) features a one-mile interpretive trail that focuses on Tahoe’s human and natural history. Named for the Washoe Indian word for the rock-grinding tools used by the tribe to prepare food, Lam Watah Trail visits a meadow that was the traditional site of a Washoe spring encampment. Signs explain the importance of Tahoe’s meadows and wetlands as a filtering system for the lake. The trail winds its way to the lakeshore at Nevada Beach, one of the largest and widest stretches of coarse white sand in all of Tahoe. A bonus here is that this trail is often snow-free (or well packed by boot prints), even in winter. Bring snowshoes just in case, however.
As winter skiers and summer sightseers ride the Heavenly gondola from Lake Tahoe’s South Shore to the slopes above, they soar above the 725 woodsy acres of Van Sickle Bi-State Park (Heavenly Village Way and Lake Parkway, 530/542-5580 or 530/543-6038), which opened to the public in 2011. Van Sickle is popular with hikers, dog walkers, and mountain bikers—it’s a great place for Stateline visitors and residents to get a taste of nature very close to the city, without driving all the way across town to the Desolation Wilderness. The park contains a few historic buildings, including an old 1860s barn that belonged to Henry Van Sickle. The Van Sickle family operated the Stateline Stables on this site until 1993, and over the years, thousands of vacationing families enjoyed trail rides on this property.
Today the park’s main attraction is the Daggett Summit Connector Trail, which runs uphill from the large paved parking lot. A 1.5-mile walk up this trail leads to a fire-scarred area with spectacular views over South Lake Tahoe and the casino area. A short distance farther, the trail crosses a small cascade. It then heads east and in another 1.8 miles connects to the Tahoe Rim Trail at Daggett Summit.
Enter the park behind the Raley’s supermarket at Heavenly Village Way and Lake Parkway, or off the Loop Road behind Harrah’s. The gates open at 7am in summer, but you can walk in any time. The park entrance is closed to cars November-May, but visitors can still walk in or snowshoe past the gates.
Spring, summer, fall, or winter, take a ride on the Heavenly Ski Resort Gondola (1001 Heavenly Village Way, 775/586-7000, www.skiheavenly.com, 9am-4pm Mon.-Fri. and 8:30am-4pm Sat.-Sun. and holidays in winter, 10am-5pm daily in summer). The lower terminal for the eight-passenger tram cars is in downtown Stateline at Heavenly Village; the upper end is 2.4 miles up the mountain. The gondola whisks sightseers up an incline of almost 2,800 feet in a mere 12 minutes, providing nonstop panoramic views. On the uphill trip, be sure to disembark at the 14,000-square-foot observation platform perched amid the granite at 9,123 feet in elevation (the gondola doesn’t stop there on the way back down). The 360-degree views include the Carson Valley and surrounding desert to the east, the Desolation Wilderness to the west, and the entire expanse of Lake Tahoe laid out from south to north. A short paved trail circles the overlook, and the views change with every step. The small Café Blue serves appetizers, sandwiches, wine, and espresso, and you can sit at the outdoor tables and marvel at the view while you nosh. Then hop back on the gondola for the final stint to the top, where you can ski, snowboard, or go tubing in winter, or in summer, try your hand at a 26-foot rock-climbing wall or go for a hike (choose from three different trails of varying difficulty). Tamarack Lodge, located at the top of the gondola, serves surprisingly gourmet food.
Gondola tickets vary in price by season; plan on paying about $39 for adults, $28 for seniors over 65 and teens 13-18, and $21 for children 5-12 (children age 4 and under ride free). The easiest parking for the gondola is at the city-owned garage on Bellamy Court ($3.75 per hour, $25 per day), off Heavenly Village Way. Don’t try to park for free in the neighboring Raley’s parking lot; you may get towed.
A summer attraction accessible only with a gondola ride is the Blue Streak Zip Line ($95 per person including the gondola ride, 10am-5pm daily in summer), a 70-second-long thrill ride that travels a distance of 3,300 feet. From the top of the gondola, zip-liners hop on the Tamarack Express chair to get to the zip line takeoff deck. They are clipped into a seat between two elevated cables, their legs dangling about 150 feet above the ground. Gravity zips them down the mountain at speeds approaching 55 miles per hour (it’s a 525-foot drop in elevation from the top of Tamarack Express to the top of the gondola). Not surprisingly, the heavier the rider, the faster the ride.
If you’d prefer more of a physical workout and less uncontrolled speed, ride the gondola to the Ropes Challenge Course ($69-89 per adult, $53-71 children, includes gondola ride, 10am-5pm daily in summer). Strap on a harness and a helmet and then challenge yourself on a variety of courses that feature rope bridges, cargo nets, ladders, walkways, and swinging logs. One guarantee: Your triceps will be sore the next day.
Located next to the Lake Tahoe Visitors Center, the small but fascinating Lake Tahoe Historical Society Museum (3058 Hwy. 50, South Lake Tahoe, 530/541-5458, www.laketahoemuseum.org, 11am-3pm Wed.-Sat. in summer, Sat. only in winter, free admission) lets visitors see the lake through the eyes of its early explorers and residents. Housing the region’s most comprehensive collection of early photographs, pioneer tools, farm implements, and Washoe Indian baskets, the museum showcases an entirely different way of life at the lake than what we know today. Exhibits document eclectic bits and pieces of Tahoe history, from the Pony Express to the gold- and silver-mining era, from the invention of snow sports to the beginning of the casino industry. Several displays of photographs and memorabilia highlight Tahoe’s early tourist resorts (the Tahoe Tavern, the Tallac Hotel, and Fallen Leaf Lake Lodge). An entire section is devoted to the Lake Valley Railroad and the massive steamships that transported passengers around the lake in the late 19th century, before the development of highways and widespread use of the automobile. A highlight is the model of the historic vessel SS Tahoe, which was the largest of the steamers that plied Lake Tahoe’s waters, measuring nearly 170 feet in length and with a carrying capacity of 200 passengers. Eventually the ship was scuttled near Glenbrook Bay because maintaining her was no longer economical.
On the grounds behind the museum is the Tahoe basin’s oldest still-standing building, Osgood’s Toll House, circa 1859, and a 1930s-era log cabin.
The Tallac Historic Site (2.7 miles north of the Y on Hwy. 89/Emerald Bay Rd., 530/541-5227, www.tahoeheritage.org, dawn-dusk June-Sept., free admission, guided tours $8 mid-June-mid-Sept.), a 150-acre chunk of lakeshore property that is home to a cluster of late-1800s and early-1900s summer homes and mansions—a total of 28 buildings in all. The impressive structures were built by prominent San Francisco families with money acquired in banking, railroad building, and land speculation.
Three grand homes from Tahoe’s “Era of Opulence,” still housing some of their original furnishings, can be seen at Tallac—the Baldwin, Pope, and Heller Estates. All three estates are in the National Register of Historic Places.
The Tallac site enjoys an incredibly scenic location on Lake Tahoe’s shore, so don’t miss the chance to stroll along the beach or walk out on the pier behind the boathouse. And take note of the trees on the Tallac grounds. Because they were protected by the wealthy Tallac landowners during the great logging era of the late 1800s, they are some of the finest examples of old-growth conifers remaining in the Tahoe basin.
The Baldwin Estate, built in 1921, is now home to the Baldwin Museum (10am-4pm daily May 31-Sept. 28), which features an impressive display of Washoe Indian artifacts.
The Pope Estate, built in 1894 by George Tallant and later owned by the Lloyd Tevis and George Pope families, is the interpretive center for the Tallac site. The building can be visited on docent-led tours (11am, 1pm, and 2:30pm Thurs.-Tues. June-Sept.) in summer. On summer weekends, living-history programs often take place, featuring costumed docents playing the roles of real people from Tallac’s history.
Those interested in gardening shouldn’t miss the Pope Estate’s arboretum, a tranquil spot with a pond, small waterfall, and a collection of plants and trees from around the world put together by Mrs. William Tevis, the daughter of a California governor, in the early 20th century. (The Tevis family purchased the Pope Estate from its original owners.)
Present-day Tallac visitors can stop in at the boathouse on the grounds of the Pope Estate, where an organization called Tahoe Classic Yacht (530/544-2307, www.tahoeclassicyacht.org) runs a small maritime museum highlighting the history of watercraft on Lake Tahoe. Under restoration at the boathouse is the Quic Chakidn, a 38-foot cruiser built in 1921 that once operated as a tour boat on Emerald Bay and was used to tow the famous steamer Tahoe when she reached the end of her useful life. A few other antique boats are also on display, plus a collection of outboard motors.
The Heller Estate, constructed in 1923, is also known as Valhalla (530/541-4975, www.valhallatahoe.com) and is the home of the annual Valhalla Arts and Music Festival, a series of concerts and dramatic performances held throughout the summer. Arts and crafts are sold at two small twin cabins on the estate. Valhalla includes a grand hall with a 40-foot-high fireplace, and can be rented for weddings and events.
A few archaeological remains of the Tallac Resort can be seen at the Tallac Historic Site. The opulent resort, which owner/entrepreneur Elias “Lucky” Baldwin called the “Greatest Casino in America,” had its heyday in the 1890s, when the wealthy would come from all over California and Nevada to dine, dance, and gamble in elegance on the shores of Lake Tahoe. In addition to the casino, the Tallac Resort included two large and lavish hotels with a ballroom and tennis courts. Guests at the resort would enjoy orchestra concerts, steamer rides across the lake, croquet, and other organized activities. Visitors today can see the remains of the casino foundation and walk the resort’s rock-lined promenade.
Managed by the U.S. Forest Service, the Taylor Creek Visitor Center (three miles north of the South Lake Tahoe Y on Hwy. 89/Emerald Bay Rd., 530/543-2674, 8am-5:30pm daily mid-June-Sept., 8am-4:30pm Oct.) provides in-depth information on the natural ecology of the Lake Tahoe basin. Maps and guides are for sale, and interpretive programs are held regularly in summer. Visitors could easily spend most of a day here attending free lectures and nature walks.
The Taylor Creek Visitor Center is the starting point for four short interpretive trails: Rainbow Trail, Smokey’s Trail, Lake of the Sky Trail, and Forest Tree Trail, as well as a trail that leads to the neighboring Tallac Historic Site. The wheelchair-accessible Rainbow Trail travels to the center’s main attraction: the Stream Profile Chamber, an underground structure that allows visitors to walk alongside the depths of Taylor Creek. Through large glass windows, you can peer into the water to watch rainbow trout, kokanee salmon, and other fishy creatures going about their business. Autumn is the most interesting season here, when the colorful kokanee swim up Taylor Creek to spawn and die. The visitors center holds a Kokanee Salmon Festival each year during the first weekend in October.
A pleasant one-mile walk along a cascading stream from near the western edge of Fallen Leaf Lake will bring you to the Glen Alpine Springs Historic Site, where one of the first resorts in the Lake Tahoe basin was located. Glen Alpine became popular in the 1860s when naturally carbonated spring water was discovered on the land. A resort with tent cabins and a dining hall was constructed around the spring. Resort guests would take part in a host of outdoor activities, like fishing and hiking, while enjoying the supposed health benefits of the spring water. Through the years, the resort changed hands several times and became progressively more developed and less rustic. A handful of buildings still stand from the resort’s zenith in the 1890s, including a few designed by the famous architect Bernard Maybeck, the genius behind San Francisco’s Palace of Fine Arts.
On-site docents staff an interpretive center (530/541-4308, 10:30am-3:30pm daily mid-June-mid-Sept.). Guided tours of the grounds and buildings are offered on weekends at 1pm. Be sure to wear sturdy walking shoes for the rocky dirt and gravel road/trail; the entire hike is two miles round-trip but mostly level. The Glen Alpine Trailhead is located at the end of Fallen Leaf Lake Road, 5.4 miles west of Highway 89.
Lake Tahoe’s Emerald Bay, with its blue-green water and single, dramatic island, is one of the most-photographed spots in the United States. Get your own snapshot at well-named Inspiration Point (Hwy. 89/Emerald Bay Rd.), perched hundreds of feet above Emerald Bay’s three-mile-long cove. From this drive-up overlook, it is easy to imagine the glacial forces that carved out this remarkable scene. As the glaciers moved through, Emerald Bay very nearly became a separate lake, like nearby Fallen Leaf and Cascade Lakes, except that the terminal moraine at its mouth was never completed. So the beautiful bay remains an “add-on” to Lake Tahoe, connected to the main body of the lake on only one edge.
Interpretive signs at the overlook relay some impressive figures about the lake, including the fact that if Lake Tahoe was drained, its massive volume of water would cover the entire state of California to a depth of more than a foot. The Inspiration Point parking lot is 7.5 miles north of the South Lake Tahoe Y on Highway 89/Emerald Bay Road, directly across from the entrance to Bayview Campground.
The curious can take a one-mile walk downhill (and uphill on the way back!) to see Vikingsholm Castle (Emerald Bay State Park, Hwy. 89/Emerald Bay Rd., 530/525-7232 or 530/541-6498, www.vikingsholm.org or www.sierrastateparks.org, 10:30am-4:30pm daily Memorial Day-Sept. 30, $10 parking; tours: $10 adults, $8 children 7-17, free for children 6 and under). The Scandinavian-style mansion was built in 1929 on some of Tahoe’s most beautiful shoreline. Lora Josephine Knight, a wealthy Chicago widow, purchased this land at the edge of Emerald Bay and had her dream home constructed out of native stone and timber, without disturbing any of the property’s existing trees. A short distance offshore, Knight had a stone teahouse built on the highest point on Fannette Island, the only island in Lake Tahoe. Guests would be shuttled by boat to the island, and servants would help them up the steep pathway to the teahouse, where they would sip Earl Grey and make polite conversation.
Fannette Island is an intriguing sight in Emerald Bay.
Considered to be one of the finest examples of Scandinavian architecture in North America, the 38-room Vikingsholm Castle is both beautiful and strange. Modeled in the style of a Norse fortress of about AD 800, the structure is capped with turrets and towers. Design motifs include hand-hewn beams carved with dragon heads and decorated with hand-painted flowers. Inside, the castle is furnished with authentic Scandinavian antiques as well as precisely crafted museum replicas. Part of the roof is sod, which is kept thoroughly watered so that it stays green all summer and can support wildflowers. A short distance behind the castle is the lower cascade of Eagle Falls.
Whatever your thoughts may be about the building’s architecture, its setting is spectacular. It’s well worth the down-and-then-up walk just to enjoy the beautiful stretch of Emerald Bay shoreline that Lora Knight so dearly loved. (She spent 16 summers here until her death in 1945.) The hike does have a 500-foot elevation gain on the return uphill, so wear sturdy shoes and try to avoid the heat of midday. Regardless of whether or not you take a tour of the castle, a parking fee is charged at the Vikingsholm parking lot, which is located 8.5 miles north of the South Lake Tahoe Y on Highway 89/Emerald Bay Road.
One of the most popular activities on the South Shore is going for a hike, as the spectacular Sierra scenery quite naturally inspires the urge to explore. Before you set out on the trail, make sure you are prepared with a few essentials, such as bottled water (or some sort of water-filtering device), food, and a trail map. Because many of Tahoe’s trails have rocky, uneven surfaces, hiking boots are highly recommended. Sunscreen and/or a sun hat are musts at this high elevation, and you don’t want to be without mosquito repellent if the bugs are biting. And keep in mind that weather in the Sierra can change dramatically in a short period of time, so it’s always wise to carry a lightweight rain poncho or jacket and additional clothing for layering.
For more information on the trails described in this section, contact the Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit (35 College Dr., South Lake Tahoe, 530/543-2600, www.r5.fs.fed.us/ltbmu) or the Pacific Ranger District of Eldorado National Forest (7887 Hwy. 50, Pollock Pines, 530/647-5415, www.r5.fs.fed.us/eldorado).
The following hikes are listed from south to north along the Highway 89/Emerald Bay Road corridor, and from east to west along the U.S. 50/Lake Tahoe Boulevard corridor.
Distance: 1.2 miles round-trip
Duration: 1 hour
Effort: Easy
Elevation change: 250 feet
Trailhead: Angora Lakes
Directions: From the Y-junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 89 in South Lake Tahoe, drive 3 miles northwest on Hwy. 89 to Fallen Leaf Lake Rd. on the left (1 mile past Camp Richardson). Turn left and drive 2 miles to Tahoe Mountain Rd. Turn left and drive 0.4 mile, then turn right on Forest Service Rd. 12N14, which alternates between paved and unpaved. Drive 2.8 miles, passing the Angora Fire Lookout, to the parking lot at the road’s end ($7 parking fee). The trailhead is on the left side of the upper parking lot.
Angora Lakes is especially popular with children’s day camps and groups, so you may feel like an outsider on this trail if you aren’t accompanied by someone under the age of 10. But this easy walk is a winner and requires so little effort that it can be done by almost anyone. The drive to the trailhead on a partially paved, partially dirt road offers scenic beauty of its own, especially as it climbs the ridge by the Angora Fire Lookout. At the upper parking lot at the road’s end, you’ll find the trail (a dirt road) on the left side.
In a mere 0.3 mile of walking through a pine-and-fir forest dotted with many rounded granite boulders, the road/trail reaches the first lake, Lower Angora, named after the angora goats that were grazed in this area in the 1870s. A few private houses are perched on the lake’s far side. In another few minutes of walking, you arrive at Upper Angora Lake and Angora Lakes Resort, which was constructed in 1920 by the Hildinger family and has eight picturesque little cabins for rent. Members of the same family still run the resort today, but the cabins are so popular that getting a reservation is almost impossible.
At 7,280 feet in elevation, Upper Angora Lake is set in a perfect bowl-shaped glacial cirque. Some people paddle around the lake in rubber rafts, and by midsummer, swimmers usually find the water warm enough to take a dip. Hikers can take advantage of the lake’s small beach, fish from shore for trout, or rent rowboats for a few bucks an hour. No matter what else you choose to do at Upper Angora Lake, most everybody who visits here makes a stop at the refreshment stand to buy a big glass of lemonade. Given the sun-exposed hike, that lemonade stand is a gold mine.
Energetic types who want to turn this easy walk into more of an adventure can ascend to the summit of Echo Peak, elevation 8,588 feet, from Upper Angora Lake. From the resort, head to the left around the lake and you’ll see a use trail that ascends the ridge leading up to the peak. In fact, you’ll probably see several use trails, all marked with rock cairns. Choose one and begin a grunt of a climb, gaining more than 1,200 feet in a little over a mile. Most people make it from the upper lake to the summit in under an hour, with some serious huffing and puffing. Echo Peak’s view makes it all worthwhile. It’s a 360-degree panorama that includes the Echo Lakes, Fallen Leaf Lake, Lake Tahoe, and numerous other lakes and peaks in the Desolation Wilderness to the west.
Distance: 2.5 miles round-trip
Duration: 1.5 hours
Effort: Easy
Elevation change: 50 feet
Trailhead: Fallen Leaf Lake Campground
Directions: From the Y-junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 89 in South Lake Tahoe, drive 3 miles northwest on Hwy. 89 to Fallen Leaf Lake Rd. on the left (1 mile past Camp Richardson). Turn left and drive 0.6 mile to the campground entrance on the right. The trail begins by campsite #75.
Picturesque Fallen Leaf Lake, measuring three miles long, is the second-largest alpine lake in the Tahoe basin. Much of the lakeshore is bounded by private property, so access to the lake is fairly limited. However, the short and easy Moraine Trail leads from near the entrance to Fallen Leaf Lake Campground to the lake’s northwest edge. The narrow, sandy path meanders for 0.25 mile through groves of quaking aspen, then heads to the right when it reaches the lakeshore and crosses Fallen Leaf Lake’s dam. On the far side, it skirts the edge of the west shore to Sawmill Cove, an ideal spot for swimming or picnicking. This is a remarkably easy walk, and a great place for a casual stroll with your dog. If possible, try to visit here in October, when you can see the aspens put on their fall color show. In winter, this trail is a popular beginner-level cross-country skiing route.
Distance: 5.4-12.4 miles round-trip
Duration: 3-7 hours
Effort: Moderate
Elevation change: 500-1,400 feet
Trailhead: Glen Alpine
Directions: From the Y-junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 89 in South Lake Tahoe, drive 3 miles northwest on Hwy. 89 to Fallen Leaf Lake Rd. on the left (1 mile past Camp Richardson). Turn left and drive 5.4 miles to the end of the road and the Glen Alpine Trailhead. Day hikers are required to fill out a self-serve wilderness permit at the trailhead.
To complete this entire lake-filled trip, the mileage may be long, but the trail’s grade is so gentle that the hike is much easier than you’d expect. This trail visits three lakes directly and travels near a fourth, so you can tailor your hiking distance to whatever your mood, abilities, and schedule allow. The trailhead is at Glen Alpine at the end of Fallen Leaf Lake Road.
After an easy walk up the gravel and dirt road, which travels 1 mile to the site of the historic Glen Alpine Springs Resort (an interpretive center and various displays are found here), the path narrows to a single-track trail and continues for another 0.7 mile to the Desolation Wilderness boundary and a left turnoff for Grass Lake. Hikers wanting a short, easy hike can turn left here and walk 1 mile to the edge of Grass Lake, 2.7 miles from the trailhead. Swimming is the primary activity at this pretty, popular lake.
Those seeking more scenery and a longer day on the trail should skip the Grass Lake turnoff and instead continue another 1.6 miles to the next junction. There, bear left for Susie Lake, then left again 0.5 mile later. At 4.2 miles from your start you’ll reach Susie Lake’s scenic shoreline, which has an abundance of established backpacking sites tucked amid groves of whitebark pines and hemlocks.
Many people make large, island-dotted Susie Lake their turnaround point for an 8.4-mile day, but it’s a pity not to continue for another mile to even more dramatic Heather Lake, a treeless, granite-bound beauty. The additional ascent is minimal, and much of the walk is a lovely stroll around Susie’s southwestern shore. Where the trail reaches Heather Lake, it skirts along its northern edge on a steep, rocky slope.
Just beyond the lake’s northwest shore, where a scarce few trees create shade and shelter for camping or picnicking, is the pass leading to Lake Aloha. If you still have the energy, walk onward for one more mile to the northern shore of Aloha, 6.2 miles from your start at Glen Alpine. Lake Aloha is a huge, shallow lake peppered with hundreds of tiny islands—a surreal but beautiful sight to behold. It was created when several small lakes were dammed to form one massive basin.
Distance: 12.4 miles round-trip
Duration: 6-7 hours
Effort: Moderate
Elevation change: 1,750 feet
Trailhead: Glen Alpine
Directions: From the Y-junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 89 in South Lake Tahoe, drive 3 miles northwest on Hwy. 89 to Fallen Leaf Lake Rd. on the left (1 mile past Camp Richardson). Turn left and drive 5.4 miles to the end of the road and the Glen Alpine Trailhead. Day hikers are required to fill out a self-serve wilderness permit at the trailhead.
This hike follows the path less traveled to three scenic lakes in the Desolation Wilderness. The route is the same as the trail to Susie, Heather, and Aloha Lakes for the first 3.3 miles, but then heads right to join the Pacific Crest Trail heading north to Gilmore Lake, 1 mile farther. It’s a pleasant hike all the way, gaining only 1,750 feet over 4.3 miles. Snuggled at the base of Mount Tallac’s southwest slope, Gilmore Lake is a nearly circular body of water that is forested on its southern shore and backed by a steep talus slope to the north. It is visited mostly by hikers heading from Fallen Leaf Lake to Mount Tallac, and backpackers making their way on the Pacific Crest Trail over Dicks Pass.
a perfect reflection in Gilmore Lake, below Mount Tallac
After enjoying a rest and perhaps a swim at Gilmore, simply retrace your steps 0.7 mile on the Pacific Crest Trail, then turn right on the trail to Half Moon Lake. A brief, easy climb followed by a mostly level walk brings you around the north shore of the lake. Crescent-shaped Half Moon Lake and its tiny neighbor, Alta Morris Lake, are contained in a huge glacial cirque that rates among the most beautiful spots in all of the Desolation Wilderness, yet the lakes are not heavily visited. They are just far enough off the main trail (1.9 miles) that many hikers heading for other destinations won’t bother to make the detour. That leaves you with a chance of solitude at the gorgeous lakes, which are set at the base of Dicks Peak (9,974 feet) and Jack’s Peak (9,856 feet).
Distance: 9.4 miles round-trip
Duration: 5-6 hours
Effort: Strenuous
Elevation change: 3,400 feet
Trailhead: Mount Tallac
Directions: From the Y-junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 89 in South Lake Tahoe, drive 3.5 miles northwest on Hwy. 89 to the left turnoff for the Mount Tallac Trailhead and Camp Shelly (across Hwy. 89 from the Baldwin Beach entrance). Turn left and drive 0.4 mile, then turn left and drive 0.6 mile to the signed trailhead. Day hikers are required to fill out a self-serve wilderness permit at the trailhead.
There are two popular trails that lead to Mount Tallac (pronounced “tull-ACK”), but the route that offers the most views almost all the way to the top is the one from the Mount Tallac Trailhead. This is a butt-kicker of a hike, with 3,400 feet of elevation gain from the bottom to the top, and two-thirds of it crammed into the last 2.6 miles. (The other route begins at the Glen Alpine Trailhead at Fallen Leaf Lake, is about 1 mile longer, and has slightly less elevation gain.) Regardless of its difficulty, this is one of the most popular hikes near South Lake Tahoe and also one of the most rewarding. The best way to avoid the heaviest crowds is to hike the trail on a weekday, preferably after Labor Day but before late October, when the 9,735-foot summit often sees its first snow.
The trail starts out deceptively easy, following an almost level course along a lateral moraine for 1.5 miles to tiny Floating Island Lake. The grass-edged lake once had a 20-foot-wide mat of soil and grass floating around its surface, earning its name, but the “floating island” has been absent for some years. A half mile farther is rocky but small Cathedral Lake, a relatively nondescript body of water, but a good place to rest up before the ensuing climb. And climb you will from here on out.
At Cathedral Lake, you’ve completed 2.1 miles of the hike (almost halfway), but you’ve gained only 1,200 feet. You’ve got more than 2,100 feet left to gain over the next 2.6 miles—a punishing climb with almost no shade along the way. Fortunately, a nearly constant banquet of views awaits, with all of South Lake Tahoe spread out before you. The trail winds around to the less-steep southwest side of Mount Tallac, and 0.25 mile below the summit, it joins the other trail coming up from Gilmore Lake. The last few hundred feet seem to take forever, but finally you ascend the pile of jumbled rocks that mark the top. It’s hard to decide which direction to face. To the east, of course, is Lake Tahoe, Emerald Bay, and Fallen Leaf Lake. To the west and south are the lake-laden basins of the Desolation Wilderness and distinctive Ralston and Pyramid Peaks. Unless the wind is fierce on top, you won’t want to give up this summit vista anytime soon.
If you can arrange a car shuttle, a great way to hike Tallac is to go uphill from the Tallac Trailhead as described, then come back down the west side of the mountain, passing by Gilmore Lake on the way to the Glen Alpine Trailhead at Fallen Leaf Lake. This provides the maximum amount of scenery in a hike of about 11 miles. Some people start at the Glen Alpine Trailhead and make a semi-loop by heading up Tallac’s west side to the summit, then descending on the east side and taking a cutoff trail from Cathedral Lake to the Stanford High Sierra Camp at Fallen Leaf Lake. But since there is no parking at the Stanford camp unless you are a paying guest, hikers then have to walk back for a couple of miles along the road to the Glen Alpine Trailhead. A car shuttle from the Tallac Trailhead to the Glen Alpine Trailhead is a much better way to go.
Distance: 1.5 miles round-trip
Duration: 1 hour
Effort: Easy
Elevation change: 200 feet
Trailhead: Bayview
Directions: From the Y-junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 89 in South Lake Tahoe, drive 7.5 miles northwest on Hwy. 89 to Bayview Campground on the left. Turn left and drive to the trailhead parking area at the camp’s far end. If the lot is full, park in the dirt parking area along Hwy. 89, outside the camp entrance. Take the trail to the left from the trailhead signboard. (No wilderness permit is required for Cascade Falls hikers.)
The trail to Cascade Falls offers big views of Cascade Lake and Lake Tahoe beyond.
The hike to Cascade Falls is one of the best easy hikes near South Lake Tahoe, but good timing is imperative. The waterfall is at its best only in the early summer months and dwindles to a meager dribble by August. In its peak season (May, June, and July), Cascade Falls is a wide stream of white water that plummets 200 feet over fractured granite into Cascade Lake’s southwest end. At full flow, as it billows and scatters in the wind, creating a misty cloud of spray, it is easy to see why the waterfall was once known as White Cloud Falls.
The hike to Cascade Falls is remarkably level, following a hillside ridge high above azure Cascade Lake, elevation 6,464 feet. The route meanders in and out of Jeffrey pine forest, alternately providing shade and open views. After a mere five minutes of walking, you’re rewarded with a tremendous vista of the lake, which is separated from Lake Tahoe by a thin strip of land—the handiwork of glaciers. Soon the path follows an exposed granite ledge that drops off steeply to more dramatic views. The trail peters out near the edge of Cascade Creek, so how far you go is up to you. The best views of the waterfall are not right at the water’s edge but about 0.25 mile back on the trail. Upstream of the falls are some lovely aquamarine pools, surrounded by large shelves of granite that might inspire a picnic. In July, bright pink penstemon blooms in profusion among the rocky crevices of this trail.
Distance: 10.5 miles round-trip
Duration: 5-6 hours
Effort: Strenuous
Trailhead: Bayview
Directions: From the Y-junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 89 in South Lake Tahoe, drive 7.5 miles northwest on Hwy. 89 to Bayview Campground on the left. Turn left and drive to the trailhead parking area at the camp’s far end. If the lot is full, park in the dirt parking area along Hwy. 89, outside the camp entrance. Day hikers are required to fill out a self-serve wilderness permit at the trailhead.
The Bayview Trailhead offers easy access from Highway 89 at Emerald Bay to the spectacular Desolation Wilderness, but it comes with the price of a steep climb.
From the trailhead at Bayview Campground, hikers begin with an 850-foot ascent over a slope blanketed with white firs to Granite Lake at 1.2 miles out. Along the way are occasional overlook points where the trail breaks out of the trees to provide expansive views of Emerald Bay, Cascade Lake, and Lake Tahoe. Given the heart-pumping climb, it’s not surprising that many dog walkers and exercise seekers just make small but scenic Granite Lake their destination and turnaround point.
Those who seek more adventure (and are willing to pay for it) can continue the even steeper ascent for another 0.9 mile and 800 feet of gain to the base of Maggie’s Peaks, and scramble to the summit if they so desire. From Maggie’s, the grade mellows out for a while before the trail descends to a junction with a path on the right coming in from Eagle Lake. Continue straight (left), and you’ll reach the start of this lake-filled loop, now 3.7 miles from the trailhead. Most people go right first, heading for Upper and Middle Velma Lakes, which are located a short distance off the main trail. Shallow and marshy Upper Velma may not be worth the extra walk, but granite-backed Middle Velma certainly is.
Continuing on the loop, you’ll skirt along the shoreline of Fontanillis Lake, a remarkably long and narrow body of water named for its plentiful brook trout, and then reach Dicks Lake, the most scenic of the lot. Oval-shaped Dicks Lake is set in a dramatic glacial cirque, with Dicks Peak rising behind it. The final leg of the loop beyond Dicks Lake is a fascinating stroll over a series of low, glacially carved ridges and basins dotted with small ponds. For a genuine taste of the Desolation Wilderness landscape, you can’t do much better than this hike.
Dicks Lake in Desolation Wilderness
Distance: 2 miles round-trip
Effort: Easy/moderate
Elevation change: 500 feet
Trailhead: Eagle Lake
Directions: From the Y-junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 89 in South Lake Tahoe, drive 8.5 miles northwest on Hwy. 89 to the Eagle Falls/Eagle Lake parking lot on the left. A $5 parking fee is charged unless you park outside the lot alongside the highway. Day hikers are required to fill out a self-serve wilderness permit at the trailhead.
On summer days, it can be difficult to find a parking spot at the trailhead for Eagle Lake. The reason, simply, is because you get so much bang for your buck on the relatively easy, 1-mile hike to the lake. Yes, the trail has a climb of 500 feet, and yes, it is rocky in places, but given enough time, even a three-year-old could make it to Eagle Lake.
The lake is tucked into a beautiful glacial cirque in the Desolation Wilderness, and to get there, the trail crosses the cascading waters of Eagle Creek on a sturdy footbridge above Upper Eagle Falls. Many people just hike in the first 0.25 mile to the waterfall and then call it a day. If you do so, be sure to walk the short and informative interpretive loop that takes off from the footbridge; it provides lovely high views of Emerald Bay with little additional effort.
The main trail parallels Eagle Creek much of the rest of the way to the lake. In addition to the up-close beauty of this white fir-and-Jeffrey pine forest, the path offers splendid views of Emerald Bay; just turn around and take a look. Eagle Lake is a beauty, with a granite backdrop and a mix of rocky and forested shoreline that invites long picnics and leisurely swims. For many visitors, Eagle Lake is their first taste of the Desolation Wilderness, and it’s compelling enough to get anyone hooked for life.
The only way to have a hope for solitude on this trail is to hike it very early in the morning—say 7am—or wait until an autumn weekday when most of the vacation crowds have dispersed.
Distance: 10 miles round-trip
Duration: 5-6 hours
Effort: Strenuous
Elevation change: 2,100 feet
Trailhead: Eagle Lake
Directions: From the Y-junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 89 in South Lake Tahoe, drive 8.5 miles northwest on Hwy. 89 to the Eagle Falls/Eagle Lake parking lot on the left. A $5 parking fee is charged unless you park outside the lot alongside the highway. Day hikers are required to fill out a self-serve wilderness permit at the trailhead.
The hike to Middle Velma Lake follows the same path as the trail to Eagle Lake, and the same rules apply: Parking can be difficult on summer days, and the crowds can be quite dense along the trail, even though Middle Velma Lake requires a much longer and more strenuous trek. Nonetheless, so many people get inspired by the scenery at Eagle Lake that they decide to continue along the trail to see more, and Middle Velma is the next destination.
The junction for Velma Lakes is just 100 yards before the shore of Eagle Lake. At this junction, you gratefully leave a percentage of the crowds behind and ascend the hillside to a spectacular view of Eagle Lake and Lake Tahoe from up high. The ascent continues for the next 1.7 miles, with only occasional breaks for level walking. At 2.7 miles from the trailhead, a trail comes in on the left from the Bayview Trailhead; continue straight for Middle Velma Lake.
The grade becomes much easier, and in less than a mile you reach a major fork—left for Dicks Lake and Dicks Pass, and right for Middle Velma Lake. Head right and enjoy a long downhill stretch, followed by a few right turns in quick succession, all signed for Middle Velma. Five miles from your start you are on the shores of this lovely lake, which is dotted with rocky islands and popular with backpackers because of its hemlock-shaded shoreline. Anglers generally do well here. So do swimmers and picnickers.
Distance: 2.5 miles round-trip
Duration: 1.5 hours
Effort: Easy/moderate
Elevation change: 500 feet
Trailhead: Vikingsholm
Directions: From the Y-junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 89 in South Lake Tahoe, drive 8.7 miles northwest on Hwy. 89 to the Vikingsholm parking lot on the right, just past the Eagle Falls/Eagle Lake parking lot on the left. A $10 parking fee is charged.
The busiest trail near the South Shore is the short hike to Vikingsholm, a Scandinavian-style mansion built in the 1920s on some of Lake Tahoe’s most beautiful shoreline. The mansion belonged to Lora J. Knight, a wealthy Chicago widow who dreamed of building a home on glacier-carved Emerald Bay in the style of an ancient Viking castle. A short distance offshore, Knight also built a teahouse on Fannette Island, the only island in Lake Tahoe. The uniqueness of this property and its location attract a huge number of curiosity seekers on every summer day, so solitude lovers should take this walk as early in the morning as possible, and preferably on a weekday.
The path is a dirt road, not a trail, and leads downhill from Highway 89 to the lakeshore. Even from the parking area the views of Emerald Bay are spectacular; many people go no farther than the stone overlook constructed on granite slabs a few yards from the parking lot. But if you follow the dirt road, you’ll enjoy an easy downhill stroll past sprays of summer wildflowers to the Vikingsholm grounds. Guided tours of the castle ($10) are available. Many hikers are content just to wander along the picnic-table-dotted shoreline or follow the trail behind Vikingsholm for another 0.25 mile to the base of Lower Eagle Falls, a refreshing cascade of white water in early summer.
Near the castle the Vikingsholm Trail joins the Rubicon Trail, so those seeking a longer walk can follow the Rubicon Trail south and then east for 1.6 miles to Emerald Bay State Park’s Eagle Point Campground, or north for 4.5 miles to D. L. Bliss State Park. The vast majority of people just turn around at Vikingsholm and head back uphill, and many are unpleasantly surprised by the 500-foot elevation gain that awaits—especially since the trail is hot and shadeless at midday.
Distance: 5.5 miles one-way
Duration: 2.5 hours
Effort: Moderate
Elevation change: 500 feet
Trailhead: Vikingsholm
Directions: From the Y-junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 89 in South Lake Tahoe, drive 8.7 miles northwest on Hwy. 89 to the Vikingsholm parking lot on the right, just past the Eagle Falls/Eagle Lake parking lot on the left. A $10 parking fee is charged.
The Rubicon Trail is Tahoe’s premier lakeshore hike. If you want to get the maximum dose of Lake Tahoe eye candy, with postcard-perfect views of rocky inlets, sandy coves, and boats bobbing in the water, this is your trail. Since the hike is 5.5 miles one-way and begins and ends at large trailheads at two state parks—Emerald Bay and D. L. Bliss—many hikers do this walk as a one-way trip by leaving one car at either trailhead, or coordinating with the Tahoe Trolley (800/736-6365 or 530/546-2912, www.laketahoetransit.com) for bus shuttle service. Most prefer to start at the Vikingsholm Trailhead by Emerald Bay and hike northward to the trail’s end at D. L. Bliss, as there is less elevation gain traveling in this direction. Campers at Emerald Bay State Park’s Eagle Point Campground are fortunate to have the option of hiking the Rubicon Trail right from camp. They get to explore an extra 1.6 miles of the Rubicon Trail, curving around the edge of Emerald Bay from the campground to Vikingsholm Castle—a stretch that is not seen by most Rubicon hikers because of the lack of day-use parking at the campground. And, of course, the ambitious can hike the trail in both directions instead of just one-way.
No matter how you do it, the path stays close to the lakeshore, although often high above it, and has a very relaxed grade. Highlights along the trail include Rubicon Point, Emerald Point, and Vikingsholm Castle, but really, the entire path is a highlight. Don’t miss taking the short side trail that curves around the shoreline at Emerald Point, where the 1920s-era Emerald Bay Resort once stood, and allow some extra time so you can take the short tour of Vikingsholm Castle ($10 adults, $8 children ages 7-17). Those who hike the 1.6-mile trail segment from Eagle Point Campground to Vikingsholm have an excellent chance of spotting bald eagles. For many years a pair has built a nest in a snag right next to the trail; lucky hikers can stand below and watch the mother eagle feeding her babies (don’t forget binoculars).
Not surprisingly, the trail is extremely crowded, especially in the peak season, so you might want to plan this trip for after Labor Day. The most jammed-up section occurs as you near the end of the trail by Rubicon Point, where the drop-offs into the lake are so steep that the trail is lined with chain-link fencing, and the path is so narrow that only one person can pass through at a time. Still, even on the busiest days, everybody is in high spirits as they enjoy this eye-popping, film-burning lakeside scenery.
Distance: 2.7-5.4 miles round-trip
Duration: 2-3 hours
Effort: Easy
Elevation change: 200-300 feet
Trailhead: Echo Lakes
Directions: From the Y-junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 89 in South Lake Tahoe, drive 9.8 miles southwest on U.S. 50 to the Echo Lakes/Berkeley Camp turnoff on the right, at Johnson Pass Rd. Turn right and drive 0.6 mile to Echo Lakes Rd. Turn left and drive 1 mile to the Echo Lakes parking lot, above the resort.
Many hikers use the twin Echo Lakes as their entry point to the Desolation Wilderness, with dozens of lakes accessible via short day hikes or longer backpacking trips. But those who just want a shorter, simpler trip will also enjoy a visit to Echo Lakes, where a small resort provides boat taxi service across the two beautiful alpine lakes. The boat service (530/659-7207, www.echochalet.com, $12 one-way per person, $5 dogs; round-trip fares are double) allows casual hikers to choose from a 5.4-mile round-trip hike out and back along the north shore of the lakes, or a shorter one-way walk of 2.7 miles combined with a scenic boat ride. The trail, which travels through stands of Jeffrey pines and white firs and offers nearly nonstop lake views, is nearly level and manageable even for nonhikers. Both the upper and lower lakes’ shorelines are dotted with quaint private cabins, inspiring envy in all who visit here.
Distance: 3.5-9 miles round-trip
Duration: 2-5 hours
Effort: Moderate
Elevation change: 400-700 feet
Trailhead: Echo Lakes
Directions: From the Y-junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 89 in South Lake Tahoe, drive 9.8 miles southwest on U.S. 50 to the Echo Lakes/Berkeley Camp turnoff on the right, at Johnson Pass Rd. Turn right and drive 0.6 mile to Echo Lakes Rd. Turn left and drive 1 mile to the Echo Lakes parking lot, above the resort. Day hikers are required to fill out a self-serve wilderness permit.
Whether or not you utilize the Echo Lakes boat taxi (530/659-7207, www.echochalet.com, $12 one-way per person, $5 dogs; round-trip fares are double) will determine the exact distance and difficulty of this lovely hike. Taking the boat in both directions makes this an easy, 3.5-mile trip, but done entirely on foot, the hike is 9 miles. A one-way boat ride puts the mileage at 6.2. However you do it, this hike leads to three distinctly different lakes in the Desolation Wilderness.
Deep, dark Tamarack Lake is marked by a tree-covered island and forested shoreline with an abundance of backpacking campsites. Ralston Lake sits in a glacially carved bowl with the steep walls of 9,235-foot Ralston Peak rising straight up from its shore. Tiny, peaceful Cagwin Lake is surrounded by forest and is the least dramatic of the three. The lakes are accessible via a nearly level walk on the Pacific Crest Trail, gaining less than 400 feet over 1.1 miles from the boat dock at Upper Echo Lake’s west end. Turn left at the trail marker for Tamarack Lake, and you’ll be on its shoreline in a few minutes; the other two lakes lie less than a half mile beyond. The ease of this trail combined with the spectacular scenery means you are sure to have company at the lakes, but there’s enough shoreline so that everybody can find their own private picnic or fishing spot.
Distance: 9.6 miles round-trip
Duration: 5-6 hours
Effort: Moderate/strenuous
Elevation change: 1,800 feet
Trailhead: Echo Lakes
Directions: From the Y-junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 89 in South Lake Tahoe, drive 9.8 miles southwest on U.S. 50 to the Echo Lakes/Berkeley Camp turnoff on the right, at Johnson Pass Rd. Turn right and drive 0.6 mile to Echo Lakes Rd. Turn left and drive 1 mile to the Echo Lakes parking lot, above the resort. Take the boat taxi across Echo Lakes and begin your hike at the west end of Upper Echo Lake. Day hikers are required to fill out a self-serve wilderness permit at the boat drop-off point.
The length of this trip is made much easier by utilizing the Echo Lakes boat taxi (530/659-7207, www.echochalet.com, $12 one-way per person, $5 dogs; round-trip fares are double), which is both a time- and energy-saver, and quite enjoyable besides.
From the boat dock at the western end of Echo Lakes, follow the gently graded Pacific Crest Trail for 2.3 miles, gaining only 800 feet, but on a granite-lined trail that is exposed to the sun most of the day and can be hot. A left turn near Haypress Meadows leads you to a junction with the Ralston Peak Trail. Take the trail signed for Lake of the Woods that leads west and downhill. It makes a steep descent over 0.5 mile, losing 350 feet and depositing you on the northeast shore of Lake of the Woods, one of the larger natural lakes in this basin and a popular backpacking, swimming, and picnicking spot. Many hikers make this their destination, or they follow the popular trail that leads right (west) to Lake Aloha in less than a mile, another worthwhile destination. (Giant Lake Aloha was formed when dozens of smaller lakes were dammed, forming one huge, shallow body of water dotted with hundreds of small islands.)
For this trip, head left (south) instead, following the path along the eastern edge of Lake of the Woods for 0.6 mile and then heading downhill, across Lake of the Woods’ outlet stream and west to Ropi Lake. You’ll lose another 500 feet in elevation along the way. Peppered with multiple dead snags, Ropi Lake is desolate but beautiful and has many good campsites on its shores.
For the ambitious, it is an easy cross-country stroll from Ropi Lake to neighboring Osma and Toem Lakes (west) or Pitt and Avalanche Lakes (south). Avalanche Lake is perched above the upper cascades of spectacular Horsetail Falls, the big waterfall that is easily seen from U.S. 50 near Strawberry.
Distance: 8.2 or 8.6 miles round-trip
Duration: 4-6 hours
Effort: Moderate/strenuous
Elevation change: 2,800 or 1,800 feet
Trailhead: Echo Lakes or Ralston Peak
Directions: From the Y-junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 89 in South Lake Tahoe, drive 9.8 miles southwest on U.S. 50 to the Echo Lakes/Berkeley Camp turnoff on the right, at Johnson Pass Rd. Turn right and drive 0.6 mile to Echo Lakes Rd. Turn left and drive 1 mile to the Echo Lakes parking lot, above the resort. Take the boat taxi across Echo Lakes and begin your hike at the west end of Upper Echo Lake. Day hikers are required to fill out a self-serve wilderness permit at the boat drop-off point.
Hikers reach the rocky summit of Ralston Peak.
For the Ralston Peak Trailhead off U.S. 50, from the Y-junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 89 in South Lake Tahoe, drive 14 miles southwest on U.S. 50 to the turnoff for Camp Sacramento. Turn right (north) and park in the parking lot signed for Ralston Trail. Day hikers are required to fill out a self-serve wilderness permit at the trailhead.
There are two common routes to Ralston Peak: the easier route, which utilizes the boat taxi (530/659-7207, www.echochalet.com, one-way $12 per person, $5 dogs; round-trip fares are double) at Echo Lakes for an 8.6-mile round-trip with an 1,800-foot elevation gain; or the harder route, which begins at the Ralston Peak Trailhead off U.S. 50 for an 8.2-mile round-trip with a 2,800-foot elevation gain. Solitude seekers will enjoy the harder route since it gets less foot traffic. Pure pleasure seekers will enjoy the easier route, which passes near lovely Tamarack Lake on a remarkably mellow grade to Ralston’s lofty 9,235-foot summit. Either path offers the same reward at the end: one of the best views possible in the Desolation Wilderness, with nearly a dozen lakes in sight, Pyramid Peak holding court to the west, and Mount Tallac towering directly north.
The Ralston Trail from U.S. 50 begins with multiple switchbacks up a densely forested slope, and even after it breaks free of the trees it continues on a relentlessly steep ascent to the summit. The route from Echo Lakes follows the easy grade of the Pacific Crest Trail for the first 2.3 miles (be sure to take the 100-yard spur off the main trail to see Tamarack Lake), gaining only 800 feet in elevation. It’s a walk in the park, except that there is little shade and the exposed granite can be hot. Then, after two left turns near Haypress Meadows, the grade steepens. The final 0.5 mile of trail to the summit can be a bit hard to discern (watch for trail cairns to aid you), but just keep heading uphill and you’ll get there. When you do, you’ll have a big smile on your face. Ralston’s summit view is one you will long remember.
Distance: 1.5 miles round-trip
Duration: 1 hour
Effort: Easy/moderate
Elevation change: 100 feet
Trailhead: Twin Bridges
Directions: From the Y-junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 89 in South Lake Tahoe, drive 15 miles southwest on U.S. 50 to Twin Bridges. Turn right into the parking lot signed for Pyramid Creek ($5 parking fee).
You’ll know why they call it Horsetail Falls the minute you first see it while cruising along U.S. 50. Straight and narrow at the top and fanning out to a wide inverted V at the bottom, Horsetail Falls swishes hundreds of feet down Pyramid Creek’s glacier-carved canyon. Its powerful stream is reinforced by four lakes: Toem, Ropi, Pitt, and Avalanche. The sight of this dramatic waterfall inspires thousands of highway drivers every day to stop and take a closer look, especially in the heavy snowmelt period from May to July. Few of them hike very far on the trail, as it soon becomes apparent that the waterfall is a long way from the parking lot. Most just pick a spot along the rushing cascades of Pyramid Creek and enjoy the wet and wonderful scenery, especially near a lacy cataract known as The Cascades.
Technically the main trail doesn’t go to Horsetail Falls at all. Instead, it follows a course known as the Pyramid Creek Loop, which is marked by small brown hiker signs nailed to trees. Much of the path traverses exposed slabs of granite, the handiwork of glaciers, and the open landscape provides good long-distance views of the falls.
Experienced hikers have the option of heading off the 1.5-mile Pyramid Creek Loop to the Desolation Wilderness boundary, where they must fill out a self-serve wilderness permit. From there, it is possible to make your way to the lower cascade of Horsetail Falls, although it is a trail-less route all the way and not advisable for the unprepared. If you choose to attempt the trip, use extra caution. Accidents happen in this area every year because of the slick rock and fast-moving water.
Distance: 6.6 miles round-trip
Duration: 3-4 hours
Effort: Moderate
Elevation change: 1,200 feet
Trailhead: Wrights Lake/Twin Lakes
Directions: From the Y-junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 89 in South Lake Tahoe, drive 17 miles southwest on U.S. 50 to the signed Wrights Lake turnoff on the right (4.5 miles east of Kyburz). Drive 8 miles north on Wrights Lake Road to Wrights Lake Campground. Bear right at the information center and continue 1.2 miles to the road’s end at the Twin Lakes Trailhead. Day hikers are required to fill out a self-serve wilderness permit at the trailhead.
Sculpted by glacial ice more than 1,000 feet deep during the last ice age, the granitic Crystal Range is one of the gems of Tahoe’s Desolation Wilderness. The Crystal Basin Recreation Area provides convenient access to this rugged landscape of glaciated basins and saw-toothed peaks. Of a host of trail choices, the 3.3-mile day hike to Twin and Island Lakes offers the best payoffs in the least mileage: spectacular wildflower displays, excellent swimming opportunities in four rockbound lakes, and miles of solid granite beneath your feet as you walk. Not surprisingly, this is the most popular day-hiking trail in the Crystal Basin.
The path’s first stretch meanders past a lush, flower-filled meadow overflowing with lupine and tiger lilies. A gentle climb through a red fir-and-lodgepole pine forest leads to a major junction just beyond the wilderness boundary, 1.3 miles out. Bear left and ascend more vigorously for 0.75 mile on exposed granite slabs. At the top of the ridge, another wildflower garden awaits, this one bursting with fireweed, paintbrush, and ranger buttons. Vistas of stark, jagged peaks to the northeast produce an inspiring backdrop. At 2.4 miles you enter Twin Lakes’s dramatic granite basin, where the receding glaciers polished each rock to a glowing sheen. The outlet stream from Upper Twin Lake cascades into the shimmering depths of Lower Twin Lake, forming a boisterous waterfall.
If you can tear yourself away from the lake’s inviting picnic spots, cross its old stone dam and continue along the northwest shore to well-named Boomerang Lake, shaped like an L, at 3 miles. Its tantalizing waters suggest a swim. Near the lakeshore you’ll find the tiny, white, bell-shaped flowers of cassiope. Another 0.25 mile of climbing leads you to the shallow glacial valley that contains enchanting Island Lake, dotted with a multitude of rocky islands. From this high point, views of the Crystal Basin’s granite-ringed cirque are the best of the trip.
Distance: 6.8 miles round-trip
Duration: 3-5 hours
Effort: Strenuous
Elevation change: 1,750 feet
Trailhead: Wrights Lake/Twin Lakes
Directions: From the Y-junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 89 in South Lake Tahoe, drive 17 miles southwest on U.S. 50 to the signed Wrights Lake turnoff on the right (4.5 miles east of Kyburz). Drive 8 miles north on Wrights Lake Road to Wrights Lake Campground. Bear right at the information center and continue 1.2 miles to the road’s end at the Twin Lakes Trailhead. Day hikers are required to fill out a self-serve wilderness permit at the trailhead.
The trail to Grouse, Hemlock, and Smith Lakes consists of an almost relentless climb, but the reward is a series of alpine lakes that get more scenic the higher you go. The trail follows the same wildflower-filled course as the path to Twin and Island Lakes for the first 1.3 miles to just past the wilderness boundary. Here, at a major junction, bear right. Small and pretty Grouse Lake is a heart-pumping 1-mile climb away. Be sure to check out the views looking back toward Wrights Lake and Icehouse Reservoir as you ascend. Grouse Lake is a popular backpacking spot, with designated sites marked by wooden posts.
Continue onward and upward for another 0.5 mile to small and stark Hemlock Lake, which is bounded by a forbidding granite slope on one side and a grove of scrawny hemlock trees on the other. This is a classic Desolation Wilderness lake, a perfect circle of sparkling blue surrounded by light-colored granite. You might be tempted to stop here, but Smith Lake lies another 0.5 mile beyond, way up high near tree line at 8,700 feet, and it’s a stunner. Don’t forget your bathing suit for this trip; at least one of these lakes is sure to lure you in.
Distance: 8.4 miles round-trip
Duration: 4-6 hours
Effort: Moderate/strenuous
Elevation change: 1,350 feet
Trailhead: Wrights Lake/Twin Lakes
Directions: From the Y-junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 89 in South Lake Tahoe, drive 17 miles southwest on U.S. 50 to the signed Wrights Lake turnoff on the right (4.5 miles east of Kyburz). Drive 8 miles north on Wrights Lake Rd. to Wrights Lake Campground. Bear right at the information center and continue 1.2 miles to the road’s end at the Twin Lakes Trailhead. Day hikers are required to fill out a self-serve wilderness permit at the trailhead.
There’s a whole lot of hiking to be done in the Wrights Lake region of the Crystal Basin Recreation Area—so much that it can seem like too many trails to choose from. The trip to Gertrude and Tyler Lakes stands out because it offers great scenery, smaller crowds, and a chance to practice your cross-country skills on the way to Tyler Lake. A clearly defined trail leads to pretty Gertrude Lake, but Tyler Lake, slightly higher and lovelier, awaits only those who forge their own way.
Start at the Twin Lakes Trailhead by taking the trail heading toward Rockbound Pass (not the main Twin Lakes Trail). You’ll enjoy a remarkably easy grade until you reach a sign for Tyler Lake at 1.6 miles. Here, bear right and prepare to work a lot harder for the rest of this trip. One memorable 0.5-mile stretch goes almost straight uphill. The worst doesn’t last long, thankfully, and the views of the spectacular peaks of the Crystal Range will spur you onward. Keep watch at 3.2 miles for an easy-to-miss spur trail on the left, 100 yards long, which leads to the grave of William Tyler, a rancher who died here in a blizzard in the 1920s. A half mile beyond this spur is Gertrude Lake, at 8,000 feet in elevation. But hold on: Before you head to Gertrude Lake, watch for the nearly invisible right fork just beyond the grave spur trail; this is an informal use trail to Tyler Lake. Occasional rock cairns signal the way.
Even if you miss the use trail, you should be able to find Tyler Lake simply by heading cross-country 0.5 mile to the southeast of Gertrude Lake. Of the two lakes, Tyler is more beautiful, set in a granite basin with a few sparse whitebark pines on its shore. Since many hikers don’t even bother trying to find it, you have a better chance at solitude here than at almost any of the lakes in the Crystal Basin.
Distance: 9.8 miles round-trip
Duration: 5-6 hours
Effort: Moderate/strenuous
Elevation change: 1,700 feet
Trailhead: Lyons Creek
Directions: From the Y-junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 89 in South Lake Tahoe, drive 17 miles southwest on U.S. 50 to the signed Wrights Lake turnoff on the right (4.5 miles east of Kyburz). Drive 4 miles north on Wrights Lake Rd. to the signed turnoff for Lyons Creek Trail. Turn right and drive 0.5 mile to the trailhead. Day hikers are required to fill out a self-serve wilderness permit at the trailhead.
The entire Crystal Basin Recreation Area is well known for summer wildflowers, but the trail with the most rewards in the flower department is the Lyons Creek Trail to Sylvia and Lyons Lakes. Although the trail is no secret, it has the advantage of being a few miles away from busy Wrights Lake Campground and its multiple trailheads into the Desolation Wilderness, so this trail sees somewhat less traffic than others in the area. Even after the peak of the wildflower season ends, the path’s final destination at Lyons Lake is always rewarding.
The trail’s grade is gentle almost all the way except for the final 0.5 mile to Lyons Lake. The path keeps to the south side of Lyons Creek for 4 miles, passing through a succession of woods and meadows and offering occasional views of Pyramid Peak. After finally crossing the creek at 4.2 miles, the trail reaches a junction. Lyons Lake is to the left and steeply uphill; Sylvia Lake is 0.4 mile to the right on a mostly level course. If you are tiring out, you might skip the side trip to Sylvia Lake, which doesn’t compare in size or beauty to Lyons Lake. Sylvia Lake is small and forested around its edges, and is often a breeding ground for mosquitoes. Lyons Lake is the prize on this trail, and a demanding 0.5-mile climb, gaining 400 feet, will get you there.
After some huffing and puffing, you arrive at Lyons Lake’s rock dam and gape in surprise at the visual impact of its commanding granite amphitheater. Make sure you come well prepared with a picnic, a book, and a towel. You won’t want to leave this spot anytime soon.
If it’s a pristine Tahoe beach you desire, you have a handful of good choices on the South Shore.
Three of the most scenic beaches are Baldwin, Kiva, and Pope, all managed by the U.S. Forest Service (www.fs.usda.gov), with restrooms and picnic facilities on-site.
Summer visitors can enjoy Baldwin Beach (dawn-dusk June-Sept., $8 parking), a stunning stretch of coarse white sand on the shores of South Tahoe. Bring your kayaks, rubber rafts, or inner tubes; launching is easy here. A natural lagoon where Tallac Creek empties into Lake Tahoe on the northwest end of the beach is a popular swimming area for families with young children, because the water is shallow and surprisingly warm.
Two other nearby beaches are also managed by the Forest Service—Pope and Kiva. Kiva Beach is the only one of the three where dogs are permitted; parking is free (enter at the Tallac Historic Site sign). Though there is no fee at Kiva Beach, swimmers beware: There are lots of rocks in the water near the shoreline. On the positive side, views of Mount Tallac are divine.
Pope, Kiva, and Baldwin Beaches are 2, 2.5, and 4 miles north of the South Lake Tahoe Y, respectively, on Highway 89/Emerald Bay Road. A parking fee of $8 is charged at Baldwin and Pope Beaches; walk or ride your bike instead of driving and avoid the fee. The paved Pope-Baldwin Bike Path runs right through all three beach parking lots.
Closer to downtown South Lake are El Dorado Beach and Regan Beach, which after a major remodel in 2014 have been renamed Lakeview Commons. A newly renovated parking area for these beaches is located between Rufus Allen Boulevard and Lakeview Avenue (clearly visible from U.S. 50). Restrooms, a boat launch, a food concession, playground, and picnic facilities are provided. A grassy strip overlooking the lake makes a nice spot for a picnic, and on summer nights is often the setting for live music.
Timber Cove Beach is in the downtown area, across from the Safeway and just behind the Beach Retreat and Lodge. It’s a great choice for families because of its shallow water and the presence of a snack bar, kayak rentals, and a pier and restaurant.
If you are willing to hike, Emerald Bay Beach is a wonderful white-sand beach with picnic tables. Accessing the beach from the Vikingsholm Trailhead requires a two-mile round-trip hike with a 500-foot elevation gain on the return trip. The trailhead for Vikingsholm Castle ($10 parking fee) is located 8.5 miles north of the South Lake Tahoe Y on Highway 89/Emerald Bay Road.
When you think about swimming or beachgoing, don’t forget there’s another lake besides Tahoe. Fallen Leaf Lake (three miles north of the Y intersection of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 89) has a lovely stretch of shoreline and a swimming beach on its northwest end, accessible by a short walk from Fallen Leaf Campground. Your dog is allowed to join you, too.
Two miles northeast of Stateline is spectacular Nevada Beach (Elk Point Rd., off U.S. 50, $8 parking). The beach is nearly a mile long and much wider than most Tahoe beaches. It’s a wonderful place to spend a day, but note that it is often windy here by mid-afternoon, when the windsurfers and kiteboarders take over from the sunbathers and casual swimmers. Restrooms and picnic facilities are available.
If you don’t mind a short hike, you can forgo the parking fee by parking at Kahle Park (Kahle Dr. and U.S. 50) and walking the one-mile Lam Watah Trail to Nevada Beach, or by parking at the end of Elk Point Road, near the Nevada Beach entrance, and walking in.
The private Zephyr Cove Resort (760 Hwy. 50, Zephyr Cove, 800/238-2463, www.zephyrcove.com, $10 parking) has a lovely strip of sand, as well as a restaurant, restrooms, beach volleyball, and the marina for the MS Dixie II cruise. This is a serious “party beach,” with plenty of action for all ages every day in summer. The parking fee is probably worth it just for the convenience of spending a few hours in the sun, then walking over and getting an ice cream or milk shake from the resort’s famous soda fountain.
Nearby Round Hill Pines Beach (300 Hwy. 50, Zephyr Cove, 775/588-3055, www.rhpbeach.com, $10, summer only) provides a similar array of beach and boating activities on its half-mile-long strand of Tahoe sand. Food and drinks are available at the Round Hill deli and bar.
Many consider Lake Tahoe to be a mecca for mountain biking. Bikes are allowed, even welcomed, on an abundance of trails, including large sections of the Tahoe Rim Trail.
A crew of mountain bikers pauses on the Tahoe Rim Trail below Freel Peak.
Among the mountain biking community, the South Lake Tahoe region is well known for its abundance of rocks and hills, plus a wealth of well-constructed single-track, much of which was built in the last decade by the U.S. Forest Service. The trails here are well suited to riders seeking a challenge. But that’s not to say there aren’t opportunities for the more casual rider, both on dirt and on pavement. South Lake Tahoe is laced with paved bike paths, as well as places to rent bikes of all shapes and sizes, including beach cruisers and bikes towing kid trailers. For people who want to ride around downtown South Lake Tahoe, the South Lake Tahoe Bike Path starts at El Dorado Beach on U.S. 50 and runs five miles west through town, connecting to other bike trails and bike lanes. Most of the ride has an urban feel to it, but a few scenic bridges cross over Trout Creek and the Upper Truckee River.
Last but not least, for those who want a leg up on the mountain, Heavenly Ski Resort (775/586-7000, www.skiheavenly.com) allows mountain bikers to bring their machines on the gondola so they can start their ride at the top of the hill, not the bottom. Check with Heavenly to see which trails are currently open to bikes.
Anderson’s Bike Rental (645 Hwy. 89, South Lake Tahoe, 530/541-0500) is located less than a half mile from the start of the Pope-Baldwin Bike Path. Rentals are also available just up the road at Camp Richardson Outdoor Sports (1900 Jameson Beach Rd., South Lake Tahoe, 530/542-6584).
If you need to rent a mountain bike, contact Shore Line Bike Rentals and Sales (775/588-8777 or 530/544-1105). With two locations in the Heavenly and Kingsbury Grade area, they will gladly set you up with a bike and a free map of the Powerline Trail. Two other places to rent bikes and get information are Sierra Cycle Works (3430 Hwy. 50, South Lake Tahoe, 530/541-7505) and South Shore Bikes (955 Emerald Bay Rd., South Lake Tahoe, 530/544-7433).
The Pope-Baldwin Bike Path travels only 3.4 miles one-way, but it passes by some of South Lake Tahoe’s greatest attractions. This is a trail for meandering and sightseeing; be sure to bring a bike lock so you can take advantage of all the things to do along the way.
Don’t miss getting off your bike to take a look at the underwater world at the Forest Service’s Stream Profile Chamber at Taylor Creek. Autumn is the most fascinating time of year, when the kokanee salmon turn bright red and swim up the creek to spawn. You’ll also want to step inside a few of the historic buildings at Tallac Historic Site, and if you pack along a picnic and a towel in a small knapsack, you can spend a few hours along the lakeshore at Pope or Baldwin Beaches. In between these highlights are pleasant stretches of trail for casual pedaling through the pines.
The bike path begins just south of Camp Richardson along Highway 89. Rent bikes at Anderson’s Bike Rental or at Camp Richardson Outdoor Sports just up the road.
Fallen Leaf Lake Road is an easy paved ride, although it isn’t technically a bike path. This narrow, paved road winds 5.5 miles from Highway 89 along the edge of Fallen Leaf Lake and past dozens of charming cottages. It then continues beyond the lake to the Glen Alpine Trailhead for the Desolation Wilderness. Although cars travel on this road, they rarely drive as fast as you can ride, due to the narrowness of the road.
Start the trip by parking near the entrance to Fallen Leaf Lake Campground; you also can access Fallen Leaf Lake Road from the Pope-Baldwin Bike Path.
More challenging, but still manageable for reasonably fit cyclists, is the 12-mile ride to Angora Ridge Lookout and Angora Lakes. Best suited for mountain bikes, the ride starts near Fallen Leaf Lake Campground, then follows Fallen Leaf Lake Road for 2 miles to Tahoe Mountain Road. A left here is followed by a right turn 0.4 mile later onto dirt Forest Service Road 1214, Angora Ridge Road. The road climbs to the top of Angora Ridge, elevation 7,290 feet. Views are good from the road, but walk a few feet to the fire lookout to get the best perspective on Fallen Leaf Lake, 1,000 feet below.
From the lookout, the road descends slightly to the parking lot for Angora Lakes. The last mile to the lakes is on a car-free dirt trail, but the route is shared with a lot of hikers and dog walkers. You’ll ride uphill to Lower Angora Lake, which has a few private homes on its edges, then proceed on level ground to more beautiful Upper Angora Lake, home to Angora Lakes Resort and its handful of picturesque cabins. (You must lock up your bike at the bike rack before entering the resort area.)
Mountain bikers of all abilities can handle the first few miles of the Powerline Trail, a dirt road/trail that begins off Oneidas Street in South Lake Tahoe. Drive south of the Y on Highway 89, turn east on Pioneer Trail, and follow it to Oneidas Street. Turn right and drive to the Powerline Trailhead on the left (north) side of the road.
The road/trail, which is also an off-highway vehicle route and runs more or less parallel to Pioneer Trail, starts with a gentle series of ups and downs as it follows underneath its namesake power lines. Where the trail crosses a creek and leaves the power lines behind, the more serious climbing begins. After a few switchbacks, the road reaches a T-junction. Bear right on the High Meadow Trail, then 0.5 mile later, go left to get back on the Powerline Trail. The path crosses Cold Creek on a well-constructed bridge and ascends gently behind the homes of Montgomery Estates to deliver you to Ski Run Boulevard by Heavenly Ski Resort. You can ride back on Ski Run to Pioneer Trail to your starting point on Oneidas Street for a 14-mile loop.
A short, fun ride from Oneidas Street is the five-mile Corral Trail Loop, which starts just past the Trout Creek bridge on Oneidas (about two miles from Pioneer Trail). Follow the single-track Corral Trail up a short climb, then downhill through a rocky, technical stretch. Eventually the trail smooths out and offers some twisting, fast turns and small jumps. After about two miles, the trail junctions with the Powerline Trail. Go left to head back to Oneidas, then left on the road for a paved climb back uphill to your car. If you’d rather get the climbing out of the way at the start of your ride, park near the Powerline Trailhead and begin the loop from there.
Experienced mountain bikers favor Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride, otherwise known as the Saxon Creek Trail. The East Shore has its famous Flume Trail; the South Shore has this much more treacherous point-to-point ride, which features an extremely technical, obstacle-ridden downhill stretch suitable for advanced riders only.
The north end of the trail is at Forest Service Road 12N01A, on the south side of Oneidas Street. The south end of the trail is at the Big Meadow Trailhead for the Tahoe Rim Trail, 5.3 miles south of Meyers on Highway 89. In between is a drop of 2,200 feet in about 3 miles.
Most riders start at the Big Meadow Trailhead and follow the Tahoe Rim Trail east and then north for 4.5 miles to Tucker Flat, elevation 8,830 feet. The route is single-track almost all the way and climbs through forest to a ridge, then makes a short descent to Tucker Flat and a junction of trails. If this first part proved to be too technical for you, turn around now; soon it will get much scarier.
Turn left on the Saxon Creek Trail and begin a highly technical downhill stretch, with lots of large rocks and big drop-offs. The trail follows the drainage of Saxon Creek, and the descent is fast and furious. Finally, the obstacles peter out, and the ride gets smoother with lots of fast, banked turns. The Saxon Creek Trail eventually meets up with Forest Service Road 12N01A, and bearing right here delivers you to Oneidas Street, where your car shuttle should be waiting for you. Hope they brought some extra bandages.
In winter at Lake Tahoe, it’s all about the slopes. In summer, it’s all about the lake—finding ways to get in it, on it, and around it. Whether you just want to look at the lake while enjoying an easygoing cruise, swim in the lake and then relax on its golden beaches, or race around the lake on a speedboat or personal watercraft, there are literally hundreds of ways to enjoy Lake Tahoe’s mighty blue expanse.
Whether you are a brand-new beginner or longtime expert, the waters of Lake Tahoe can provide hours of pleasure as you tool around its shimmering surface in a colorful, lightweight kayak. Much of the beauty of the experience lies in the fact that you are self-propelled, gliding along the lake without the noise and distraction of an engine. Traveling in this quiet fashion, and at a relatively slow pace, you are almost guaranteed to see wildlife. A family of ducks or a gaggle of geese may swim by your boat; an eagle or an osprey may soar overhead. Since most kayakers paddle close to the shoreline, deer and other land animals are also commonly seen.
Kayakers with big ambitions should check out the Lake Tahoe Water Trail map ($12, 503/385-8023, www.adventuremaps.net), which shows available boat launches, campsites, lodging, dining, and more for all 72 miles of lake shoreline. Visit the website of the Lake Tahoe Water Trail Committee (www.laketahoewatertrail.org) for information on trip planning, Tahoe paddling events, and the local kayaking community.
Kayak Tahoe (in Timber Cove Marina across from the Safeway and behind the Beach Retreat and Lodge, South Lake Tahoe, 530/544-2011, www.kayaktahoe.com) leads kayak tours, rents kayaks to do-it-yourselfers, and operates a kayaking school. No experience is necessary for rentals or tours; beginners are outfitted with a sit-on-top kayak, and with only a few minutes of instruction can set out on their own. Rental rates are $20 per hour for single kayaks and $32 per hour for doubles; kayaks can also be rented for a two-hour window ($30-50) or all day ($65-85). Kayak Tahoe operates out of five locations: Timber Cove Marina, Nevada Beach, Pope Beach, Baldwin Beach, and on the beach at Vikingsholm Castle in Emerald Bay (a one-mile hike is required to reach the kayak rentals). Not surprisingly, the Vikingsholm Castle location does a booming business; most visitors want to kayak to Fannette Island and around Emerald Bay.
If you don’t want to kayak on your own, guided tours along Tahoe’s East Shore or into Emerald Bay are extremely popular ($70-95 per person), as are evening sunset and full-moon tours ($40 for a two-hour tour). Be sure to make advance reservations for these tours.
Sit-on-top kayaks can also be rented at most of the South Shore’s marinas, including Camp Richardson, Zephyr Cove, Ski Run, Lakeside, Round Hill, Timber Cove, and Tahoe Keys. Those who have brought their own kayaks to Lake Tahoe can put in at almost any public beach or marina they can drive to.
The most popular area for kayaking on the South Shore is the sparkling waters of Emerald Bay. The closest public put-in spot is at Baldwin Beach. Strong, fit beginners and intermediates can handle the paddle from Baldwin Beach to Emerald Bay, but a 9am start is recommended because there is usually less wind and fewer powerboats in the morning. It’s a two-mile paddle to Emerald Point, then you steer around the point and into Emerald Bay. It’s another 1.5 miles from Emerald Point to the back of the bay, where Vikingsholm Castle is located. Kayakers can stop for a rest on the beach, take a guided tour of the castle ($10 adults, $8 children), or pay a visit to Fannette Island, where the owner of Vikingsholm held tea parties.
Kayakers pull up at the marina at Fallen Leaf Lake.
Plan on a five-hour round-trip, including time to hang out at Fannette Island and Vikingsholm. A boat-in campground (800/444-7275, www.reserveamerica.com, $35) is located on the shores of Emerald Bay State Park for those who want to turn this into a two-day adventure.
If you want to try the latest craze in nonmotorized water sports, rent a stand-up paddleboard, or SUP, from South Tahoe Standup Paddle (3115 Harrison Ave., South Lake Tahoe, 530/416-4829, www.southtahoesup.com, $20-30 per hour, $65-105 per day) or Kayak Tahoe (in Timber Cove Marina across from the Safeway, South Lake Tahoe, 530/544-2011, www.kayaktahoe.com, $20 per hour, $30 for two hours, $65 all day). Then fire your personal trainer. You’ll work your core and abs as you paddle around the lake while standing up and maintaining your balance on these surfboard-like devices. The sport is easy to learn, at least on flat water, since the 12-foot-long boards are very stable. For your first time, go early in the morning, when the lake surface is usually calm.
South Tahoe Standup Paddle also offers guided paddleboard tours (half day $85, full day $250), group and private lessons, and combination paddle-and-yoga classes. The shop also sponsors paddleboard races every Wednesday night in summer.
Every September, Tahoe hosts the annual Tahoe Fall Classic paddleboard race (www.tahoecup.org), following a 22-mile course from El Dorado Beach to Kings Beach. The best paddlers complete the course in less than four hours, but not without sore muscles and blisters on their hands.
If the idea of plying Tahoe’s waters by using only a combination of the wind and your own skill appeals to you, check out Sailing Ventures (Tahoe Keys Marina, 775/287-4356, www.sailingventures.com), which offers the South Shore’s only professional sail training. Rates for private lessons are $140 per person or $195 per couple for a two-hour demonstration class, or $325 per person for a more extensive two-day class. Group lessons for four or six people are $45-55 per person.
Literally dozens of water-sports companies are located around the South Shore, ready and willing to rent you a Jet Ski, Sea-Doo, Waverunner, hydro bike, or powerboat for racing around the lake. Rates are typically about $100 per hour for smaller vessels like Jet Skis and Waverunners.
Action Watersports (3411 Hwy. 50, South Lake Tahoe, 530/544-5387, www.action-watersports.com), located at Timber Cove Marina across from the Safeway, rents all the aforementioned and also offers parasailing rides. For the uninitiated, this is an activity in which one, two, or three participants soar hundreds of feet above the lake, attached to a parachute being pulled by a boat. Potential parasailing passengers, be forewarned: Everyone on shore will stare at you while you “fly,” so this is a poor activity for those inclined to shyness. Action Watersports has two other locations: one at Camp Richardson Marina (530/542-6570) and another at Lakeside Marina (530/541-9800).
Ski Run Boat Company (www.tahoesports.com) in Ski Run Marina (900 Ski Run Blvd., 530/544-0200) and Tahoe Keys Marina (2435 Venice Dr., 530/544-8888) rents powerboats, Jet Skis, hydro bikes, water tricycles, and other water toys by the hour or the day. In addition to a full array of rentals, they lead guided Jet Ski tours to Emerald Bay. Their parasailing operation out of Ski Run Marina soars the highest of any company on the lake—more than 1,200 feet above the water.
Closer to the casinos, Lakeside Marina (Park Ave. and Lakeshore Dr., Stateline, 530/541-9800) has Waverunner, Sea-Doo, and speedboat rentals. And on the Nevada side of the South Shore, H20 Sports (775/588-4155, www.rhpbeach.com) operates out of Round Hill Pines Beach, two miles northeast of Stateline. They rent Sea-Doos, kayaks, paddleboats, and sea cycles, and offer parasailing rides. At nearby Zephyr Cove Resort (775/589-4901, www.zephyrcove.com), you can rent just about anything with horsepower—powerboats, Waverunners, ski boats—and yes, they have parasailing, too, with discounted rates if you “fly” before 10:30am.
If you don’t know how to water-ski or wakeboard, or would like to improve your skills, Lake Tahoe is a great place to learn. Try Don Borges Water Ski School (530/391-1215, www.rhpbeach.com) at Round Hill Pines Beach, two miles northeast of Stateline.
If you brought your own boat or personal watercraft to Lake Tahoe and just need to find a boat ramp on the South Shore where you can put it in the water, you can do so at South Lake Tahoe Recreation Area (530/542-6056), Tahoe Keys Marina (530/541-2155), Timber Cove Marina (530/544-2942), Lakeside Marina (530/541-6626), or Camp Richardson Marina (530/542-6570).
If bowling is your bag, head to the lanes at Tahoe Bowl (1030 Fremont Ave., South Lake Tahoe, 530/544-3700, www.tahoebowl.com, 2pm-11pm daily in summer, 11am-11pm daily in winter) and teach your kids how to roll a few strikes or spares. With 16 lanes available, the wait isn’t usually too long, and if it is, you can hang out in the sports bar, send the kids to the video arcade, or munch on some pizza.
Lake Tahoe is famous for its huge mackinaw trout, but the trophy fish don’t just jump onto your line. Because of the lake’s massive size and depth, the best fishing is always done by boat and in the company of an experienced guide who knows the lake. Although mackinaw can be fished year-round, the bite is best in spring and early summer, when the fish move from the deepest parts of the lake into shallower water. The average size of a mackinaw is 3-5 pounds, but fish as large as 10 pounds are fairly common. Occasionally a 20-30-pounder will be caught; the lake record is more than 37 pounds.
The lake also offers an excellent kokanee salmon fishery, with most action occurring around midsummer. Kokanee, or landlocked salmon, are considerably smaller than mackinaw, but they are strong fighters and provide exciting fishing. The lake-record kokanee was 4 pounds, 15 ounces. Brown and rainbow trout are also commonly caught in Lake Tahoe. The lake is open for fishing year-round, except for within 300 feet of its tributaries October 1-June 30.
Fallen Leaf Lake also offers good boat fishing for mackinaw and rainbow trout. Shoreline anglers generally have better luck at this lake, too (try using worms, spinners, or lures). Access the lake by walking 0.25 mile from Fallen Leaf Lake Campground. Fishing within 250 feet of the dam is illegal. Captain Aaron Fox with Backwater Charters (530/544-1977 or 530/307-8906, call for rates) will take you out on Fallen Leaf Lake in his boat for guided fishing.
Dozens of South Lake Tahoe guide services can take you out on the lake and greatly increase your chances of catching fish. Most services have a 90 percent or better catch rate. Bait, tackle, and beverages are usually provided, and your fish will be cleaned and bagged for you.
One of the biggest and best guide services is Tahoe Sport Fishing Company (900 Ski Run Blvd., South Lake Tahoe, 530/541-5448 or 800/696-7797, www.tahoesportfishing.com), with a fleet of six boats available for private charter. They operate year-round out of Ski Run Marina and Zephyr Cove and offer four- or five-hour trips in the morning or afternoon ($110-120 per person), or private charters for $125-135 per person, minimum six people. Fishing gear, bait, and tackle are provided, as well as snacks and drinks, and foul-weather gear if needed. If you catch fish, your guides will not only clean and bag it for you, they will even arrange to have it delivered to your favorite South Shore restaurant so it can be served to you at dinner.
There are too many other excellent guide services to list, but a few that come well recommended are Tahoe Topliners (Camp Richardson Resort, 530/721-0593, www.tahoetopliners.com), Four Reel Sport Fishing (Tahoe Keys Marina, 530/573-0141, www.southlaketahoesportfishing.com), Mile High Fishing Charters (Tahoe Keys Marina, 530/541-5312, www.fishtahoe.com), O’Malley’s Fishing Charters (Zephyr Cove Marina, 775/588-4102), Eagle Point Fishing Charters (Tahoe Keys Marina, 530/577-6834), and Lake Tahoe Fishing Guides (530/541-5566 or 877/270-0742, www.tahoefishingguides.com).
If you are a fly fisher hoping for some inside knowledge about the streams and rivers in the Tahoe area, pay a visit to Tahoe Fly Fishing Outfitters (2705 Hwy. 50, South Lake Tahoe, 530/541-8208 or 877/541-8208, www.tahoeflyfishing.com). In addition to their full-service fly shop, they offer guided trips and fly-fishing instruction, and complete equipment rentals (everything from waders to fly rods). The store sells a huge selection of hand-tied flies, many made by local experts. Guide rates are $225 for two hours, $275 for four hours, or $395 for eight hours. Beginners might want to sign up for the popular Introduction to Fly Fishing class, taught at a local stream ($50 per person).
If you just want your four-year-old to catch his or her first fish, head over to the Tahoe Trout Farm (1023 Blue Lake Ave., South Lake Tahoe, 530/541-1491, www.tahoetroutfarm.com), a stocked pond for children 15 and under. No license is required and no limits apply; they charge by the size of the fish caught. Bait and tackle are provided. This family-owned business has been putting smiles on kids’ faces since 1946.
Another great spot for kid-oriented fishing is Sawmill Pond (2.5 miles west of the South Lake Tahoe Y, at Sawmill Rd. and Lake Tahoe Blvd.), where only kids 14 and under are allowed to fish (adults can watch, but they can’t cast a line in the water). There is no charge, and kids can keep as many as five fish.
Golfers looking for a bargain should head to Bijou Municipal Golf Course (3464 Fairway Ave., South Lake Tahoe, 530/542-6097, www.cityofslt.us, green fees $15-22), run by the City of South Lake Tahoe Parks and Recreation Department. This nine-hole, par 32 course offers fine views of Freel Peak and Heavenly Ski Resort and it’s the perfect place to hit a few balls without breaking the bank. Tee times are on a first-come, first-served basis, so you can golf at the spur of the moment.
For a longer day on the greens, make a reservation at the 18-hole Lake Tahoe Golf Course (2500 Emerald Bay Rd., South Lake Tahoe, 530/577-0788, www.laketahoegc.com, green fees $39-87). This par 72 course, designed by Billy Bell Jr., boasts spacious fairways backed by snowcapped mountains. The Upper Truckee River comes into play on 13 holes. Breakfast and lunch are served, plus cocktails on the mountain-view sundeck. Private and group lessons are offered at the full-service pro shop. Spring and fall are your best bets for bargain rates.
Tahoe Paradise (3021 Hwy. 50, South Lake Tahoe, 530/577-2121, www.tahoeparadisegc.com, green fees $20-55) is an 18-hole beauty nestled among the sugar pines just four miles south of the South Lake Tahoe Y. Be prepared for narrow, tree-lined fairways on this par 66 executive course; if you aren’t a straight shooter, play somewhere else.
Just across the Nevada state line in the casino area is Edgewood Tahoe Golf Course (100 Lake Pkwy., Stateline, 775/588-3566 or 888/881-8659, www.edgewoodtahoe.com, green fees $110-240). This 18-hole, par 72 course, built by architect George Fazio and his nephew Tom Fazio in 1969, is a favorite of well-to-do golfers and celebrities. Bordering Lake Tahoe, the course is remarkably scenic and has been lauded by Golf Digest Magazine as one of America’s top 100 courses. You may have seen photographs of its 18th hole, which is surrounded by so much water, it’s practically an island. Every July, Edgewood hosts the American Century Celebrity Golf Championship (www.tahoecelebritygolf.com), in which a host of famous actors and athletes pair up to raise money for charity. Charles Barkley, Michael Jordan, and John Elway are frequent contestants. But Edgewood is not just for golfers. Even if you don’t play, tag along with someone who does and go hang out and enjoy the lake views at Edgewood’s Brooks Bar and Deck, or have dinner in the fabulous Edgewood Restaurant (180 Lake Pkwy., South Lake Tahoe, 775/588-2787, www.edgewoodtahoe.com, 5:30pm-9pm daily, $27-38).
And expect big changes at Edgewood in the coming years. The company that owns the course is in the process of building a hotel property and 40 time-share condos next to the current clubhouse. As proposed, the LEED-designed lodge will include 154 hotel rooms, a health spa, and a bistro-style restaurant. It should open by summer of 2017.
A variety of guided trail rides are offered by the trusty steeds at Camp Richardson Corral (Emerald Bay Rd. at Fallen Leaf Lake Rd., South Lake Tahoe, 530/541-3113 or 877/541-3113, www.camprichardsoncorral.com). If you don’t want to commit much time, try the 55-minute ($43) ride through the meadow and forest. Two-hour rides ($83) and four-hour-rides ($164) are also offered. For a dinnertime option, try the early-evening Steak Ride (4:30pm-6:30pm, $58-98 per person); riders follow trails through the forest and across Taylor Creek and back, returning to a hearty Western steak barbecue. (The horses are vegetarian, so they eat hay, not steak.) Camp Richardson also offers overnight horseback trips to several high mountain lakes; reservations are required. Children must be six years or older to ride; no experience is necessary.
Zephyr Cove Stables (Zephyr Cove, NV, 775/588-5664, www.zephyrcovestable.com) provides equestrian services on the Nevada side of the South Shore. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner rides are available, or one- to two-hour rides without meals ($45 for one hour, $83 for two hours, or $58-68 for a ride with a meal).
One look at the South Lake Tahoe shoreline, and the verdict is clear: This place rocks. Experts and beginners alike will find plenty of bouldering and climbing opportunities around the South Shore. Generally the best months for climbing around the South Shore are May, June, September, and October. July and August are often too hot, except for shaded climbing areas like Eagle Lake Cliff. Winter is obviously too cold.
A popular beginner area is located in Eagle Creek Canyon near Emerald Bay, 0.25 mile up the Eagle Lake Trail near the bridge over the creek. A 75-foot-tall cliff erroneously named 90-Foot Wall can be climbed year-round. Various climbs and routes are possible, giving beginners and intermediates ample practice opportunities. Bolt anchors are positioned on top of the cliff, making toproping easy. Another popular toproping site is Pie Shop, named after a bakery that used to be near the rock’s base. Pie Shop is located off Sawmill Road (one mile south of the South Lake Tahoe Airport).
A famous climbing area to the west of the South Shore is Lover’s Leap (U.S. 50 by Strawberry). This distinctive chunk of granite that rises 600 feet from the American River Canyon floor was made famous by climbing legend Royal Robbins in the 1960s. Single- and multiple-pitch routes are available, offering variety for climbers of all experience levels. About 30 separate boulder problems also present good challenges.
Farther west on U.S. 50, the Echo Lake and Kyburz areas offer more climbing opportunities, including the steep knobs of Phantom Spires near the Wrights Lake Road turnoff, and the smooth, solid cracks of Sugarloaf near Kyburz, where the hardest climb in the world was established by Tony Yaniro in 1978.
For climbing instruction and/or guide service, contact the Tahoe Adventure Company (530/913-9212 or 866/830-6125, www.tahoeadventurecompany.com). Although the company is based on the North Shore, they offer classes at several South Shore locations, including Lover’s Leap, Phantom Spires, and Sugarloaf. Beginner and intermediate lessons cost about $130 for a half-day session. Several other reputable companies offer guiding service and classes on the South Shore: Lover’s Leap Guides (530/318-2939, www.loversleap.net) and Alpine Skills International (530/582-9170, www.alpineskills.com).
To purchase rock-climbing equipment on the South Shore, go to Tahoe Sports Ltd. (4008 Hwy. 50, Heavenly Village Shopping Center, South Lake Tahoe, 530/542-4000, www.tahoesportsltd.com).
Boasting the largest concentration of ski areas in North America, Lake Tahoe offers skiers and snowboarders plenty of terrain, plenty of variety, and most years, plenty of snow. Thanksgiving is the traditional opening day for downhill (alpine) skiing and snowboarding around Lake Tahoe, but this varies according to the whims of Mother Nature. The ski season usually lasts into early April. At Tahoe’s lake level (6,200 feet), about 125 inches of snow fall each year, but the higher elevations receive as much as 500 inches. At most Tahoe ski resorts, snow bases are usually between 100 and 200 inches December-March.
For skiing on the South Shore, you have two close-by choices: Heavenly Ski Resort and Sierra-at-Tahoe.
Bargain hunters take note: Except for holiday periods, you rarely need to pay full price for lift tickets. You will need to do a little strategizing, though, which includes regularly scanning the resorts’ websites for special deals, including discounted weekday skiing, stay-and-ski-free packages, or packages with lessons and/or rentals included. A great website to keep your eye on is Snowbomb (www.snowbomb.com), which offers vouchers for discounted tickets for most of the major resorts, plus discounts at local lodgings, ski shops, and restaurants. If you have a Costco (www.costco.com) store near your hometown, you can often buy discounted lift tickets there or online. SaveMart and Lucky stores in California also sometimes carry discounted lift tickets.
If you need to rent ski or snowboarding equipment, dozens of rental shops on the South Shore can set you up before you reach the slopes. Heavenly Sports (www.heavenlysports.com) has a whopping seven locations, including one at 988 Stateline Avenue in South Lake Tahoe (530/544-1921). Powder House Lake Tahoe (www.tahoepowderhouse.com) has six locations on the South Shore, including one that is across the street from Heavenly Village (4045 Hwy. 50, 530/542-6222), another at Lakeland Village condos (530/541-2886), and another at the Forest Suites condos (530/543-6550). And House of Ski (209 Kingsbury Grade, Stateline, 775/588-5935 or 800/475-4432, www.houseofski.com) has been renting ski equipment on the South Shore since 1979. They also have great prices on ski gear for sale. Typical rental rates at shops in town are about $25 per day for a basic alpine ski package (skis, boots, poles) or snowboarding package (board and boots). If you want high-performance demo equipment, you’ll pay double or triple that for the latest, greatest gear.
Skiers who need rental equipment but don’t want to schlep around town can take advantage of ski rental delivery services. Simply book your rentals online, wait for the delivery truck to show up at your hotel or condo, try on your equipment to make sure everything fits, and exchange it if it doesn’t. Sure, it costs about double for this service over typical rental shop rates, but for many, the convenience is worth it. One perk is that if, while you’re on the slopes, you find that your bindings don’t work right or your boots pinch your toes, you call the delivery company and they come and replace them. The best of the South Shore ski delivery services is Ski Butlers (877/754-7754, www.skibutlers.com). In addition to their seven rental shops, Powder House (800/555-2065, www.powderhouseskidelivery.com) also offers a ski delivery service.
Heavenly Ski Resort (3860 Saddle Rd., South Lake Tahoe, 775/586-7000, www.skiheavenly.com, 9am-4pm Mon.-Thurs., 8:30am-4pm Fri.-Sun. and holidays) holds numerous Tahoe records, including the fact that it has the highest summit elevation of any resort around the lake (10,067 feet). With 4,800 skiable acres on and around the slopes of mighty Monument Peak, this is California’s largest resort.
Heavenly has 30 lifts, plus its famous gondola, serving 94 runs, the longest of which is a prodigious 5.5 miles. The resort’s greatest vertical drop is 3,500 feet, considered to be the longest on the West Coast. Plus, Heavenly’s acreage runs across the state line, so it is possible to ski from California to Nevada and back again. All in all, megaresort Heavenly can brag of a lot of “bests” and “mosts,” and one of those “mosts” is most expensive lift tickets of any resort around the basin, and the fewest discounts and deals.
Heavenly isn’t the best place for beginners to try out their first pair of skis, but it’s tons of fun for intermediate and advanced skiers and riders. One-third of the mountain is for expert skiers (try the famous Gunbarrel or World Cup runs), nearly half is intermediate terrain, and beginners are left with a mere 20 percent. From a ridge near the top of Heavenly’s Olympic chair, three gates access the backcountry for skiers and riders who want fresh lines, providing a route to two infamous runs: Palisades and Fire Break. These two backcountry canyons are now as popular, or more so, than Mott Canyon, Heavenly’s equally famous in-bounds expert area. Beginners do best staying close to the calm corduroy near the Boulder Lodge learning center.
The resort typically sees 360 inches of snow per season, and they have plenty of snowmaking equipment, so there’s usually plenty of white stuff—but never as much as there is at some of Tahoe’s other resorts, where the annual snowfall can be 100 inches greater. If Heavenly has one shortcoming, it’s that the season often ends a bit early.
Heavenly is consistently rated one of the Top 20 Ski Resorts in North America by Ski Magazine, both for “overall best resort” and for “off-hill activities.” Part of the reason for Heavenly’s good fortune is the location of its $23 million gondola ($39 adults, $28 seniors over 65 and teens 13-18, $21 children 5-12, children 4 and under free), which sits smack in the middle of downtown at U.S. 50 and Heavenly Village Way. Skiers and riders can walk to the gondola from hundreds of lodgings on both sides of the California-Nevada state line. Traveling 2.4 miles in about 12 minutes, Heavenly’s gondola is California’s longest, and its 138 cabins carrying eight passengers apiece give it the most uphill carrying capacity of any gondola in the state. Even nonskiers enjoy riding the gondola; the lake views are sublime. On the uphill ride, skiers and nonskiers alike can disembark about two-thirds of the way up and take in the vista from a 14,000-square-foot observation deck. At the top of the gondola is a lodge and restaurant, as well as Heavenly’s Adventure Peak snow park, where nonskiers can go tubing or snowshoeing.
Heavenly is notorious for having some of the priciest lift ticket rates of any of the big resorts around the lake. In fact, whether you are buying an adult ticket, a child’s ticket, or a half-day ticket, expect to pay about $20 more to ski here than you would at Kirkwood, Squaw, Northstar, Sugar Bowl, or Alpine Meadows. Like all the other resorts, Heavenly alters its ticket prices based on the peak periods of the ski season, with the highest prices usually occurring during the last two weeks of December and on other winter holidays, such as Presidents Day weekend and Martin Luther King Day weekend. Late March and April tickets are usually the cheapest. For all-day tickets, adults can expect to pay $100-110, seniors 65 and older and teenagers $87-95, and children 12 and under $60-68. To save a few bucks, purchase multiple-day tickets at least seven days in advance online. A season pass ($429-769) allows skiers access to Heavenly, Northstar, and Kirkwood resorts.
If you are staying on the South Shore, there’s no need to drive and hassle with parking near Heavenly’s gondola. Instead, take the free Heavenly Shuttle (530/541-7149, www.bluego.org), which is operated by BlueGo and stops at all major casinos and hotels in town.
With a high elevation of 8,852 feet, Sierra-at-Tahoe (1111 Sierra-at-Tahoe Rd., Twin Bridges, 530/659-7453, www.sierraattahoe.com, 9am-4pm Mon.-Fri., 8:30am-4pm Sat.-Sun. and holidays) has several things going for it. For skiers and riders traveling from Sacramento or the San Francisco Bay Area, Sierra-at-Tahoe is within easy reach, shaving nearly 30 minutes off the trip to South Lake Tahoe. The resort has 2,000 mostly wind-protected acres and 46 runs, so there’s no shortage of terrain. There’s no snowmaking equipment, either, which can be a bummer in dry winters. Most years, though, the snowfall averages a prodigious 480 inches.
Warm spring days are perfect for lounging on the deck at Sierra-at-Tahoe.
Snowboarders are fond of Sierra-at-Tahoe because of its six terrain parks and two radical half-pipes, including a 17-foot-tall gem that has been ranked as one of the top 10 half-pipes in North America by Transworld Snowboarding magazine. Most years, Sierra also puts the time, money, and energy into building a superpipe.
Expert skiers who like to have a few obstacles in their path enjoy the amount of tree skiing possible on the slopes. Five backcountry gates, when they are open, can get you onto the slopes less traveled in Huckleberry Canyon (the resort is hoping to incorporate this area into its in-bounds, but for now, it’s open to advanced backcountry skiers only).
The mountain’s summit hosts 360 Smokehouse Barbecue inside the Grandview Lodge, where the pulled pork sandwiches are graced by big vistas from the outdoor deck. Maybe it’s due to the dizzying view of distant Lake Tahoe, but here, barbecue sauce rises to new culinary heights.
It is no surprise that Sierra-at-Tahoe has a well-earned reputation as a family-friendly resort. And even if you aren’t a family-style skier or rider, this is still a great place to ski on a windy, stormy day, especially if you enjoy tree skiing. And parents of wee ones will appreciate the fact that the resort has licensed day care for children ages 18 months to five years.
Ski and snowboard lessons and learning programs are a priority at Sierra-at-Tahoe. With their “Learn to Ski Guarantee,” beginners are promised they will be able to ski or snowboard from the top of the mountain after three lessons, or the fourth lesson is free. A long and gentle, 2.5-mile, green-circle run travels all the way from the top of the mountain to the base, so many novices get to ride the lift to the summit on their first day.
Adult all-day tickets are $89-93, youths 13-22 are $79-83, children 5-12 are $29-33, and children 4 and under ski free. Seniors age 65-69 pay $59-63; seniors age 70 and over pay $35-38. Half-day tickets are $10 less across the board. But lots of people take advantage of Sierra’s terrific three-day deal, which costs $189 for adults, meaning each of three days of skiing or riding costs about $63 (the three days don’t have to be consecutive).
Sierra-at-Tahoe lies to the west on U.S. 50, 12 miles from South Lake Tahoe. If you are staying in South Lake Tahoe and don’t want to drive through the snow over Echo Summit to get to Sierra-at-Tahoe, relax and take the free shuttle, which leaves from Stateline Transit Center, South Y Transit Center, and Meyers Chevron several times each morning starting at 6:30am (only resort employees ride those first early buses; the resort doesn’t open until 8:30am or 9am, depending on the day of the week). Buses make the return trip to the South Shore starting at 12:50pm from Sierra-at-Tahoe.
The South Shore alpine ski resorts don’t particularly cater to cross-country (Nordic) skiers. The closest resort with a substantial number of groomed cross-country trails is Kirkwood along Carson Pass. Instead, the South Shore’s cross-country skiing hot spots are better suited to do-it-yourselfers who have their own equipment and know where to go. If you don’t know the area, contact the U.S. Forest Service (530/543-2600) for maps and trail guides.
One of the most popular areas is Echo Lake Sno-Park, on the north side of U.S. 50, one mile west of Echo Summit (0.5 mile in along the road to Echo Lakes). There is parking for about 60 cars, but you must purchase a Sno-Park permit November 1-May 30 ($5 per day or $25 per year, 530/543-2600, www.ohv.parks.ca.gov). In South Lake Tahoe, you can buy a Sno-Park permit at any CVS location or U.S. Forest Service office. From Echo Lake Sno-Park, you can ski up to the twin Echo Lakes, then follow the trail along their north shores and beyond as far as you please. It’s 3.5 miles to the far end of Upper Echo Lake, 6 miles to Lake Margery, and 7 miles to Lake Aloha.
A much smaller Sno-Park at Taylor Creek (530/543-2600, www.ohv.parks.ca.gov), on the west side of Highway 89 just north of Camp Richardson, offers beginner-level cross-country skiing trails to Fallen Leaf Lake. There is parking for about 15 cars, but again, you must have a Sno-Park permit.
Those seeking more of a challenge can ski the hill leading up to the Angora Fire Lookout on Angora Ridge, or continue to the Angora Lakes. Another popular winter trailhead for accessing Angora Ridge, its fire lookout, and/or the lakes, is located off Tahoe Mountain Road. There is no fee for parking here, and a Sno-Park permit is not required, but parking is fairly limited. From the South Lake Tahoe Y, head west on Lake Tahoe Boulevard for 2.4 miles to Tahoe Mountain Road, then turn right. Drive 1 mile, then turn right on Glenmore Way, followed by an immediate left on Dundee Circle (follow the signs for Fallen Leaf Lake and Angora Ridge). Park at the end of the plowed road by the gated road/trail. You’ll ski for about 2 miles, almost all of it uphill, to reach the fire lookout; it’s a fast and furious descent on the way back. If you want to continue past the lookout to the lakes, they are 1.4 miles farther along the obvious road/trail.
A no-fee area popular with South Lake Tahoe locals is located at the end of Oneidas Street (off Pioneer Trail near its junction with U.S. 50/Hwy. 89). From this trailhead you can ski the road/trail to Fountain Place, or a stretch of the Powerline Trail (both about four miles round-trip). High Meadows Road, also off Pioneer Trail but a few miles farther to the east near Sierra House Elementary School, has more Nordic skiing opportunities. Simply park at the gate (0.75 mile up High Meadows Rd.) and follow the road/trail as far as you wish; it leads to High Meadows in 3.5 miles and Star Lake a few miles beyond. Both the Oneidas and High Meadows trailheads see a fair amount of snowmobile use, but most everybody minds their manners, and the snowmobiles tend to pack down the snow nicely for skiing.
If you need a place to rent equipment or take a few hours of lessons, your best bet is Camp Richardson Resort (1900 Jameson Beach Rd., South Lake Tahoe, 530/541-1801 or 530/542-6584, www.camprichardson.com). The resort has 35 kilometers of groomed trails bordering Highway 89, including a few trails along the shore of Lake Tahoe and on the grounds of the Tallac Historic Site. Equipment rentals cost $15-19; a full-day trail pass is $12. Stay-and-ski packages that include cross-country ski equipment rentals, trail passes, lodging, and a continental breakfast start at $55 per person (double occupancy).
The great thing about snowshoeing is that you don’t need any experience to do it, and you don’t need to go anywhere special to do it. If there is snow on the ground and you have two feet, you can snowshoe. Sure, you can ride the gondola to Heavenly’s Adventure Peak and snowshoe there on a couple kilometers of trails, but you could just as easily (and much more cheaply) do so on any of South Lake Tahoe’s bike paths, along the Baldwin Beach shoreline, at Fallen Leaf Lake, or almost anywhere else.
Still, if it’s your first time and you prefer to be led by the hand, try the groomed trails by the Mountain Sports Center at Camp Richardson (530/542-6584, www.camprichardson.com) or Sierra-at-Tahoe Ski Resort (530/659-7453, www.sierrattahoe.com).
Sierra-at-Tahoe maintains three miles of groomed snowshoe trails. Interpretive signs along the route describe the fauna and flora of the Sierra Nevada. Guides from the resort’s Telemark and Backcountry Center occasionally lead guided nature walks on snowshoes, but for the most part, you’ll be on your own to rent snowshoes ($25 per day) and take a self-guided walk in the snow.
The Mountain Sports Center at Camp Richardson (530/542-6584, www.camprichardson.com, 9am-4pm daily) has the largest selection of snowshoe rentals at Lake Tahoe, including children’s sizes; they also hold fun events like snowshoe cocktail races and full-moon snowshoe parties. Snowshoe rentals cost $15-20 for a half day, $18-30 for a full day. Kids under 12 get a free trail pass when accompanied by an adult.
If you want to feel like you are eight years old again, go sledding. It’s the perfect activity to take decades off your personal clock. Sledding is fun, low-tech, and a guaranteed giggle-inducer. What you choose as your sledding device is up to you. Many swear by round saucers, others insist on traditional rectangular models in plastic or wood, and still others buck tradition by sledding in large, inflatable inner tubes. In fact, the latter has become so popular it has spawned its own winter sport, known simply as tubing. Many snow-play resorts now allow only tubes on their sledding hills because their insurance agencies believe this is a kinder, gentler, less accident-prone form of sledding.
An old-fashioned South Shore resort that offers tubing and sledding is Hansen’s Resort (1360 Ski Run Blvd., South Lake Tahoe, 530/544-3361, www.hansensresort.com), where the tubing hill is a whopping 400 feet long, with banked turns and smooth downhill runs. Equipment is furnished with the $20-per-person, per-hour fee ($15 for each additional hour; no charge for kids ages 4 and under). No “outside” equipment is allowed. Hot chocolate and snacks are for sale. If you stay in one of their cabins, you can tube and sled all day long for $20.
If you are traveling with skiing friends, you can tube while they ski at Sierra-at-Tahoe (noon-4pm weekdays, 10am-4pm weekends, $25 for two hours, including equipment), which brags of 425 feet of smooth sailing and banked turns on its tubing run.
Lake Tahoe Adventures (3071 Hwy. 50, South Lake Tahoe, 530/577-2940, www.laketahoeadventures.com) operates a sledding and tubing run in the Meyers area, next to Lira’s Supermarket.
Do-it-yourselfers should head to one of the state-run Sno-Parks in the South Lake vicinity. Sno-Parks, which are basically plowed parking lots alongside or near the highway, are marked by distinctive brown signs. Here, for the price of a $5 daily permit or $25 annual permit, you can slide down the hills on any piece of equipment you like. Heck, bring along your garbage-can lid if that’s all you have. Sno-Park permits are sold at CVS stores, sporting-goods stores, businesses located near Sno-Parks, and many other locations. The Sno-Park program hotline (916/324-1222, www.ohv.parks.ca.gov) has information on where to buy permits and where Sno-Parks are located.
Three Sno-Parks are found in the South Shore region, but only one has good sledding and tubing opportunities. Taylor Creek Sno-Park (530/543-2600, www.ohv.parks.ca.gov), on the west side of Highway 89 near Camp Richardson, has a small sledding hill and parking for about 15 cars. This is the perfect spot to take very young children sledding.
The south side of Echo Summit on U.S. 50 used to have a Sno-Park named Echo Summit, but the area is now privately run and called Adventure Mountain (U.S. 50, 2.8 miles east of Sierra-at-Tahoe, 530/577-4352, www.adventuremountaintahoe.com, 10am-4:30pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat.-Sun. late Nov.-Apr. conditions permitting, $25 parking). It still has the same great sledding hill, relatively clean restrooms, and ample parking. Sno-Park permits are not accepted. Bring your own sled, saucer, or inner tube, or rent one at the concession stand located adjacent to the hill, which also sells snacks, beverages, gloves, and hats. Three separate slopes of varying inclines allow you to choose your risk level. Thrill seekers will head for the longest, steepest slope, which used to be a ski run back in the days when a ski resort was located here. Only the most aerobically fit daredevils tackle this run—it’s a long uphill hike to get to the top, especially when you are dragging a sled behind you.
If you are craving a winter sport with some horsepower behind it, snowmobiling might fit the bill. Two companies at South Lake offer guided snowmobile tours on groomed trails that lead to impressive high vistas of the lake.
For a low-cost, low-commitment snowmobiling experience, Sierra Mountain Sports (2500 Emerald Bay Rd. at the Lake Tahoe Golf Course, South Lake Tahoe, 530/542-3294, www.sierramountainsports.com) rents snowmobiles for $55 for 30 minutes. You ride your machine around a groomed track on the snow-covered Lake Tahoe Golf Course.
The largest snowmobile tour center on the West Coast, Zephyr Cove Snowmobile Center (760 Hwy. 50 at Zephyr Cove Resort, Zephyr Cove, 775/589-4906 or 800/238-2463, www.zephyrcove.com) has more than 100 Yamaha and Ski-Doo touring snowmobiles (including double-rider machines, so even children as young as five can go along for the trip, with Mom or Dad driving). The company caters to first-time riders with free shuttle service from the casino area of South Lake Tahoe to Zephyr Cove, and bus service from there to the snowmobiling trailhead. If you forgot to bring along your warmest gloves and boots, clothing rentals are available ($18 for a complete package consisting of jacket, bibs, boots, and gloves). Helmets are provided free with all rides.
The standard two-hour Lakeview Tour leaves two to four times a day in winter, depending on demand; all drivers must be at least 16 years old. Cost is $129 for a single rider or $169 for double riders. Those seeking more adventure can sign up for a three-hour guided tour ($235 for single riders and $275 for double riders). If possible, try to make the trip on a weekday, as weekends are quite busy and tons of snowmobiles share the trails. The company that runs the snowmobile center is the same one that operates the cruising paddle wheelers MS Dixie II and Tahoe Queen, so ride-and-cruise packages are available for visitors who want to make a day of it. Other packages include dinner and/or an overnight stay in a cabin at Zephyr Cove.
Lake Tahoe Adventures (3071 Hwy. 50, South Lake Tahoe, 530/577-2940 or 800/865-4679, www.laketahoeadventures.com), located next to Lira’s Supermarket and across from the agricultural check station in Meyers, specializes in introducing beginners to snowmobiling with their two-hour Summit Tour through Hope Valley, following the Carson River all the way to Blue Lakes. No more than seven machines go out in each group, so the experience is fairly intimate. Helmets, gloves, and boots are included in the price, as well as shuttle transportation from the tour center in Meyers to the snowmobile base camp in Hope Valley.
Tours cost $130-220 for single riders or $170-220 for double riders. Snowmobile suits are available to rent for $10. Drivers must be at least 16 years old and hold a driver’s license. Children 5 and under are not permitted on public tours, but private tours can be arranged. More experienced riders can sign up for longer tours that leave the groomed trails behind and set out into fresh powder. Kids 8 years old and up can try snowmobiling on their own on a special groomed track.
Heavenly Village’s outdoor ice-skating rink (530/542-4230, www.theshopsatheavenly.com, 10am-8pm daily Nov.-Mar.) is where you can practice your figure eights while your non-skating friends browse through Heavenly Village’s exclusive shops. The rink is on the small side, so you might not be able to execute a triple camel, but it’s good fun for kids. Skate rentals are good for the entire day ($20 adults, $15 children 12 and under), so you can come, skate, go, and return to skate again as often as you please.
More serious skaters can be found at the indoor South Lake Tahoe Ice Arena (1176 Rufus Allen Blvd., South Lake Tahoe, 530/544-7465, www.tahoearena.com, public skating hours vary, $15 ages 6 and older, $8 ages 5 and under, includes skate rental). This full-service ice-skating facility consists of a regulation National Hockey League-size ice arena, locker rooms, snack bar, retail store, arcade, and party rooms. Skating and hockey lessons are available, as well as public skate sessions.
If the snow permits, the Borges family offers winter-wonderland-style sleigh rides in the big meadow across the road from MontBleu (U.S. 50 and Loop Rd., Stateline, 775/588-2953 or 800/726-7433, Dec.-Mar., www.sleighride.com, $25 adults, $15 children 2-10, children under 2 free). Rides last about 30 minutes and take place in one of five handmade sleighs, including a romantic two-seater and a party-style 20-passenger sleigh. Blankets are provided for snuggling with loved ones, and hot chocolate and cookies are available for purchase. If you’re planning to propose marriage to that special someone and don’t want to make a public show of it, private rides are available ($50 adults, $25 children 3-10). The Borges’s horses are celebrities—they frequently appear in Pasadena’s Tournament of Roses parade.
On the opposite side of South Lake, the horses at Camp Richardson’s Corral (Emerald Bay Rd. at Fallen Leaf Lake Rd., South Lake Tahoe, 530/541-3113, www.camprichardson.com, $28 per person) also carry passengers on sleigh rides through the snow-covered landscape. Reservations are required.