the view from the Rubicon Trail
DOWNHILL SKIING AND SNOWBOARDING
the historic boathouse at Chambers Landing.
While the South Shore is known as the high-energy, nightlife-and-action side of the lake, the North and West Shores have always been more sedate.
A wealth of outdoor activities are available here, including skiing at 10 alpine resorts, hiking in Ed Z’berg Sugar Pine Point or D. L. Bliss State Parks, biking along a wealth of paved and dirt trails, or golfing at one of eight courses. Two good-size cities are found on the North Shore, Tahoe City and Truckee, both brimming with restaurants, shops, and lodgings. Beyond the towns are miles of river, forest, and lake shoreline—a bounty of open space—and the people who live here like it that way. Although there are ample tourism-related businesses, the region is more appropriately characterized by its abundance of public parkland, cozy knotty-pine cabins, and lakefront estates, including some of Tahoe’s grandest mansions, both publicly and privately owned. The West Shore in particular has an “old-money” ambience. This is classic Tahoe, with giant conifers and massive timber-and-stone lodges, including Fleur du Lac, the estate of Henry Kaiser and the movie location for The Godfather II.
Still, the North Shore does experience crowding, especially in the summer months. The Y in Tahoe City, where the highways, bike paths, and Truckee River convene, is one of the busiest spots around the lake. Visitors rent rafts for a leisurely float down the river, a cluster of restaurants feed hungry tourists, sightseers lean over the railing of Fanny Bridge to watch the fish swim in the river below, history buffs tour the Gatekeeper’s Museum, and bike riders pedal off on a network of trails. Some of Tahoe’s best people-watching takes place near the Y, where Highways 28 and 89 meet, but head south or east and the throngs disappear. On the West Shore, communities like Tahoe Pines, Tahoma, and Meeks Bay are separated by scenic beaches offering opportunities for boating and swimming. To the east of Tahoe City, the charming hamlets of Kings Beach and Tahoe Vista boast a collection of restaurants and places to stay.
Frequently overlooked in favor of the towns on Lake Tahoe’s shoreline, the quaint town of Truckee is worth a stop for railroad and history enthusiasts, browsers, and casual strollers. The town burgeoned during the construction of the transcontinental railroad through Donner Pass in 1868. In 1900, the Lake Tahoe Railway was completed between Truckee and Tahoe City, allowing tourists a much easier route to the lakeshore. The original train depot, now more than a century old, still serves railway passengers. But it’s not just the lovingly restored buildings and gentrified hipness of Truckee that attract visitors. The region around Truckee and Donner Pass offers some of the best outdoor recreation of the entire Tahoe region, including world-class alpine ski resorts such as Squaw Valley USA and Northstar California, North America’s largest cross-country ski resort at Royal Gorge, and almost limitless rock-climbing and hiking opportunities.
Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.
S Tahoe Gal Cruise: The locals’ favorite tour boat, this small paddle wheeler plies Tahoe’s waters for a romantic sunset dinner cruise, a happy-hour cruise, and a breakfast cruise (click here).
S Ehrman Mansion: There is something for everyone at this property in Ed Z’berg Sugar Pine Point State Park: tours of the elegant, 11,000-square-foot, stone-and-timber lodge; a nature center; a few short interpretive trails; and a marvelous stretch of West Shore beach (click here).
S Martis Peak Fire Lookout: For a bird’s-eye view of Lake Tahoe and points north, you can’t do much better this lookout, where a U.S. Forest Service fire spotter will welcome you to his or her perch (click here).
S Rubicon and Lighthouse Loop: After only a short walk on the Rubicon Trail, you’ll find yourself at dramatic Rubicon Point, where you can peer several hundred feet down into the lake’s depths before looping back past a restored 1916 lighthouse (click here).
S Truckee River Recreation Trail: This scenic bike path runs 5.5 miles from Tahoe City to Squaw Valley USA, following within a few feet of the river’s edge for its entire distance (click here).
S Rafting on the Truckee River: Take a mellow float down the Truckee River in a raft or inner tube from Tahoe City to River Ranch Lodge, where you can sit out on the deck and enjoy lunch (click here).
S Sleigh Rides and Dogsleds: The best way to enjoy this winter wonderland is to dash through the snow in an open sleigh drawn by handsome horses or eager huskies (click here).
Many visitors spend a week or more in and around the North and West Shores, both in the winter and summer seasons. This is especially true if you are interested in outdoor recreation—skiing or other winter sports, hiking, rock climbing, mountain biking, golfing, and water sports. Just visiting some of the North or West Shore’s sightseeing highlights, and dining at a few of its fine restaurants, will require a minimum of two days.
In the summer months, be sure to visit the Ehrman Mansion at Ed Z’berg Sugar Pine Point State Park and take a walk on one of the park’s short nature trails, or have a picnic on the mansion’s beach. Stroll around the Tahoe City Y and stop in at the Gatekeeper’s Cabin Museum to see its marvelous collection of Native American baskets. Allow some time for a few hours of fun recreation, like a lazy float down the Truckee River in a raft or inner tube, or an easy bike ride along the paved Truckee River Trail followed by lunch at River Ranch Lodge. And don’t miss the chance for a few meals at some of the North and West Shores’ fine restaurants, especially those with big lake views.
For a romantic sunset dinner cruise, happy-hour cruise, or a scenic shoreline breakfast cruise, you can’t go wrong with North Tahoe Cruises (952 N. Lake Blvd. in the Lighthouse Mall, Tahoe City, 800/218-2464, www.tahoegal.com, $20-43 adults, $11-19 children), which operates the paddle wheeler Tahoe Gal. Smaller than the paddle wheeler cruise boats on the South Shore, the Tahoe Gal provides a more intimate cruising experience with a maximum of 150 people on board. Tours last between 90 minutes and three hours and depart from the Lighthouse Shopping Center, at the dock behind the Safeway supermarket. For a special experience, book the full-moon cruise, which takes place only once a month.
For a taste of old-school Tahoe cruising, sign up for a cruise on the 12-passenger Wild Goose II (at North Tahoe Marina, 7360 N. Lake Blvd., Tahoe Vista, 530/412-4064, www.wildgoose2.com, $65-70 adults, $30-50 children), a 36-foot wooden cruiser that looks antique but was built in 2006. Scheduled cruises run the gamut from a champagne-and-pastry cruise that leaves at 10am and cruises the North Shore on summer days, to a Sunnyside lunch cruise that carries passengers to Sunnyside Resort for lunch on the restaurant’s outdoor deck. Most popular is the sunset cocktail cruise, which leaves the marina at 5pm in summer so guests can enjoy the quieter hours on the lake.
If you prefer wind power to motor power, Tahoe Sailing Charters (700 N. Lake Blvd., Tahoe City, 530/583-6200, www.tahoesail.com, $55-65 adults, $45-65 children) offers daily two-hour afternoon and sunset cruises. Tours depart from the Tahoe City Marina; passengers can elect to help with the hands-on sailing or just sit back and relax on the 50-foot sailboat Tahoe Cruz. Beer, wine, sodas, and bottled water are included, and tours are limited to 25 passengers.
A summer of dock-hopping and drinking without driving awaits, thanks to the North Lake Tahoe Water Shuttle (530/581-8707, www.northlaketahoewatershuttle.com, one-way $10 adults, $7 children), which stops at Tahoe City Marina, Gar Woods Restaurant in Carnelian Bay, the West Shore Café in Homewood, and Obexer’s Marina in Homewood. The shuttle runs daily (9:30am-10pm late June-late Sept.), carrying up to 12 passengers and 8 bikes. This is a great, inexpensive way to access restaurants, bike trails, museums, parks, and farmer’s markets. You can make a reservation in advance (good advice on holiday weekends) or just check the shuttle schedule online and show up at one of the docks.
D. L. Bliss State Park (Hwy. 89, 530/525-7277, www.parks.ca.gov, sunrise-sunset, $10 parking), 17 miles south of Tahoe City, adjoins Emerald Bay State Park to the north. Together, the pair of parks offer six stunning miles of gorgeous lakeshore to explore. Calawee Cove, arguably the West Shore’s most beautiful public beach, is a crescent-shaped cove where Tahoe’s shallow waters take on a Caribbean-blue hue. Hikers have several trails to choose from, including the Balancing Rock Nature Trail, an easy 0.5-mile hike to a 130-ton hunk of granite precariously perched on a rock pedestal, and the Lighthouse Trail along the lake’s edge to a 1916 lighthouse that once guarded the West Shore. The popular Rubicon Trail skirts six miles of shoreline—from D. L. Bliss State Park to Emerald Bay State Park—offering eye-candy views all the way. A seasonal campground (open Memorial Day to Labor Day) rounds out the amenities.
Trails in D. L. Bliss State Park run through the forest and along the shoreline.
Pay a visit to the Ehrman Mansion (Ed Z’berg Sugar Pine Point State Park, 7360 Hwy. 89/W. Lake Blvd., Tahoma, 530/525-7982, www.sierrastateparks.org, $10 day-use fee per vehicle, tours $10 adults, $8 children 7-17, children under 7 free), 10 miles south of Tahoe City, to see how the Tahoe rich lived at the start of the 20th century. This three-story, timber-and-stone lodge was built in 1903 as the summer home for Isaias W. Hellman, a San Francisco financier. Over the course of his lifetime, Hellman acquired 2,000 acres of land around Lake Tahoe, much of which is now Sugar Pine Point State Park. His grand, 11,000-square-foot house, which he called “Pine Lodge,” was equipped with three porches covered in Oriental rugs, a circular staircase, leaded-glass windows, and fine furnishings in each of its eight bedrooms. The grounds were carefully landscaped with trees, lawns, flower beds, and a vegetable garden. A pier and two boathouses were built for the family’s speedboats. Much of the construction materials for the estate had to be transported across the lake by steamship, as no road existed in the early 1900s between this site and Tahoe City.
The mansion was later inherited by Hellman’s daughter, Florence Hellman Ehrman, who spent summers here with her husband, accompanied by an army of more than 30 servants, all of whom were housed in various buildings on the property. Tours (530/525-7982, www.sierrastateparks.org, $10 adults, $8 children 7-17, children under 7 free) of the mansion are offered daily in summer (10:30am-3:30pm).
A nature center with bird and wildlife displays is housed in the mansion’s old water tower. Also on the property, just north of the pier, is a hand-hewn, 19th-century log cabin that was the home of trapper and fisherman William “General” Phipps, the first permanent settler on Lake Tahoe’s west shore. The entire estate enjoys a gorgeous setting on the shore of Lake Tahoe—an inviting spot for a picnic or a quick, cold swim.
Lake Tahoe’s colorful maritime history is memorialized at the Tahoe Maritime Museum (5205 W. Lake Blvd./Hwy. 89, Homewood, 530/525-9253, www.tahoemaritimemuseum.org, 10am-5pm Thurs.-Tues. in summer, 10am-4:30pm Fri.-Sun. in winter, $5 adults, children 12 and under free), located on the West Shore just south of Homewood ski area. The collection includes eight antique watercraft, including the Shanghai, an 1890s-era launch that was discovered on the bottom of Lake Tahoe in 2000, and a Gar Wood runabout. Several outboard engines on display date back to the early 20th century. Exhibits highlight the famous steam-powered vessel Tahoe, which plied the lake’s waters in the late 19th century. A special children’s room encourages kids to learn about boating with activities like line tying, boatbuilding, watercolor painting, and other arts and crafts.
This short walk offers such big payoffs that you can easily convince the nonhikers in your family to do it. A walk of less than a half mile with a 250-foot elevation gain leads to the top of Eagle Rock and spectacular views over Lake Tahoe. Eagle Rock is the neck of an eroded volcanic plug, which dammed up the surrounding volcano like a cork. Because the massive rock juts out over Highway 89 and the West Shore, it provides one of the most easily accessible viewpoints of the lake and a great spot for taking photographs. Eagle Rock’s summit view scans the entire length of the lake from north to south. Although the Washoe Indians had been visiting Eagle Rock for centuries, Westerners started to climb the rock as early as 1881. At the start of the 20th century, these early tourists built a gazebo on the summit.
The trail begins at the signboard and pullout area along the west side of Highway 89, 6.5 miles south of Tahoe City (just south of Barker Pass Rd.). Most people reach the top of Eagle Rock in about 15 minutes of walking.
Located right next to the Truckee River outlet at the Tahoe City Y, the Gatekeeper’s Cabin Museum (William B. Layton Park, 130 Hwy. 89/W. Lake Blvd., Tahoe City, 530/583-8717 or 530/583-1762, www.northtahoemuseums.org, 11am-5pm daily May-mid-Oct., Fri.-Sat. only in winter, $5 adults, $4 seniors, children under 12 free) brings to life Tahoe’s reign as the queen of the California resort destinations in the late 19th century. In those days, before roads were built along the lakeshore, travelers crisscrossed the lake by passenger steamships. Scale models of four of these ships are on display, along with other bits and pieces of Tahoe memorabilia, including period clothing and winter sports equipment. Serious historians will be interested in the Ellen Attardi research library, which includes books, oral histories, photographs, and newspapers from Tahoe’s pioneer era to more modern times. The museum building itself is an authentic log cabin. The original cabin on this site, built in 1909, was the home of the first river gatekeeper, whose job was to measure and regulate Tahoe’s water level. Five different men held this duty from 1910 to 1968. When the gatekeeper’s cabin was destroyed by fire, the present-day museum was hand-carved from lodgepole pine logs and built on the same foundation.
In an adjoining building is the Marion Steinbach Indian Basket Museum, exhibiting more than 800 Native American baskets made by more than 90 different tribes, including the local Washoes and Paiutes. The woven baskets are as large as three feet in diameter and as small as one-quarter inch. This world-class collection, which belonged to Marion Steinbach and was donated after her death in 1991, also includes Native American pottery, dolls, rattles, hats, and artifacts. The museum may be closed on Monday and Tuesday.
Situated at Outlet Point, the only spot where the waters of Lake Tahoe find an escape from the lake’s basin, tiny Truckee River Outlet State Park comprises the land surrounding the Lower Truckee River at Tahoe City. Here the river is crossed by a dam and Fanny Bridge, named for the posteriors of the tourists who lean over the bridge’s railing to see the giant trout in the river below. The Donner Lumber Company built the first dam across the Truckee River outlet in Tahoe City in 1872. Water released through the dam controlled the flow of logs to lumber mills downstream. This led to long-running conflicts and a court battle, known as the Tahoe Water War, over who had the right to regulate the flow of water—the lakeshore landowners or the downstream Truckee River water users. Today the water is controlled by the federal watermaster in Reno, but the dam’s 17 gates are still raised and lowered on this site using the same hand-turned winch system employed since 1913. The Gatekeeper’s Cabin Museum is a few feet away, and the paved Tahoe City Lakeside Trail passes by and continues to the Commons Beach area.
Perched on a bluff alongside busy North Lake Boulevard and above Commons Beach, the Watson Cabin (560 N. Lake Blvd./Hwy. 28, Tahoe City, 530/583-8717 or 530/583-1762, www.northtahoemuseums.org, noon-4pm Sat.-Sun. Memorial Day-June 30, noon-4pm Wed.-Mon. July-Labor Day, free) is the oldest log structure remaining in the North Tahoe area. The cabin was built in 1908 by Robert Montgomery Watson, Tahoe City’s first policeman, and his youngest son, using local materials such as hand-hewn logs, native stone, and deer antlers. Part of the structure’s claim to fame is that it had the area’s first indoor bathroom. The cabin was given to the son, Robert, as a wedding present in 1909, and he and his wife, Stella, used it as a summer retreat and occasionally as a year-round home, although they found the Tahoe winters difficult. By the 1940s, the Watsons were dismayed by the traffic and noise of downtown Tahoe City, so they leased out the cabin. From the late 1940s until 1990, the building was used as a gift shop. Today at the Watson Cabin, docents from the North Lake Tahoe Historical Society dress in period costumes and tell stories of early-20th-century Tahoe life.
Although the 1960 Winter Olympics are a long-vanished memory for most, the host of those games, Squaw Valley USA (1960 Squaw Valley Rd., Olympic Village, 530/583-6955 or 530/583-6985, www.squaw.com) has parlayed its Olympic glories into its raison d’être for being a year-round destination. Located five miles northwest of Tahoe City, and with the symbolic Olympic flame still greeting visitors at its entrance, Squaw boasts an extraordinary 3,600 acres of skiing terrain serviced by 30 chairlifts. Squaw Valley and its neighboring resort, Alpine Meadows, are now under the same ownership, which means a ticket at one resort gets you access to both. Technically, that means that Squaw ticket holders have access to 6,000 acres of ski terrain, 44 lifts, and 270 trails. During the ski season, shuttles run between the two resorts every 30 minutes.
Squaw offers plenty for nonskiers, too. Its SnoVenture Activity Zone is perfect for nonskiers, with a kid-friendly day lodge, expanded snow-tubing course, and mini-snowmobiles for kids ages 6-12. An open-air skating rink is found at Squaw’s High Camp, accessible via the aerial tram, for those who wish to do a few pirouettes (it’s an ice-skating rink in winter and a roller-skating rink in summer). Also at High Camp is the 1960 VIII Olympic Winter Games Museum. This room full of photographs and posters commemorates what was in 1960 the largest Olympics ever held, with 34 nations sending more than 1,000 athletes, all of whom were housed on-site in the first-ever Olympic Village. The 1960 Olympics were also the first winter games to be nationally televised, and the first to use electronic computers to tally scores.
Squaw Valley offers a wide range of summer activities, too. A cable car sails 2,000 feet above the ground to the High Camp Bath and Tennis Club, elevation 8,200 feet, where an artificial lagoon lures swimmers and bathers and a café serves meals on an outdoor deck above the pool. Plenty of parents let their kids play in the water while they order a Blue Lagoon margarita, put on their dark shades, and enjoy the summer pool-party atmosphere. At this elevation, sunscreen is a must—every summer day a few unprepared, oblivious sunbathers face an unpleasant red-skinned surprise at the end of the day.
Hiking trails lead from the tram station to surrounding high peaks, and outdoor concerts are held on weekends. Summer cable-car hours of operation are 9:40am-6pm daily mid-June-Labor Day; the cable car is open weekends only the rest of the year, except for ski season. Summer cable-car rates are $39 for adults, $25 for teens, $10 for children 12 and under; skate and/or swim passes are extra.
Down below at Squaw Valley and Squaw Creek, visitors can play 18 holes of golf, ride horseback, or browse the upscale shops at The Village at Squaw Valley. Then again, some visitors just take a look at this beautiful alpine valley and wonder what it would have been like if they hadn’t altered the landscape for the sake of recreational sports.
The historic town of Truckee, 12 miles northwest of Tahoe City, was settled in 1863 and named for a Paiute Indian chief. It came into existence as a way station serving wagon traffic traveling over Donner Summit’s emigrant routes, and thrived due to the construction of the transcontinental railroad. The first train passed through Truckee in 1868; Amtrak still travels through the town. An enjoyable historical walking tour of the downtown’s wooden sidewalks will take most visitors an hour or two, although serious shoppers could easily spend a day browsing Commercial Row’s many stores.
Start by picking up the walking tour brochure at the Truckee Visitors Center (10065 Donner Pass Rd., Truckee, 530/587-2757 or 530/587-8808, www.truckee.com, 9am-5:45pm daily), located at the century-old train depot. Among the town’s many historic buildings, don’t miss the two-story Old Truckee Jail Museum (10142 Jibboom St., 530/582-0893, www.truckeehistory.org, 11am-4pm weekends in summer), one block north of Commercial Row. It showcases the longest operating jail in California, which incarcerated criminals during 1875-1964.
For a bird’s-eye view of Lake Tahoe and points north, it’s hard to do better than Martis Peak Fire Lookout. In summer and fall, drive your car or ride your bike to the lookout tower, elevation 8,650 feet. In winter and spring, you can get there on snowshoes or cross-country skis. No matter what time of year, the expansive view from the top will wow you. The tower is staffed by a U.S. Forest Service worker during daylight hours in summer and fall. When the lookout is not busy spotting fires, he or she will be happy to interpret for you the expansive high view of Lake Tahoe and Carnelian Bay to the south, Boca and Stampede Reservoirs to the north, and Donner Lake, Mount Tallac, the Truckee airport, Twin Peaks, and dozens of other landmarks. On clear days you can even see Mount Lassen, 100 miles to the north.
From Highway 28 at Kings Beach, drive northwest on Highway 267 for 3.7 miles. Just beyond Brockway Summit, turn right on Martis Peak Fire Lookout Road and continue 4 miles to the lookout.
When Californians get hungry on a hiking trip, inevitably someone cracks a lame joke about the Donner Party, an ill-fated group of emigrants who took what they thought was a shortcut while trying to make their way westward from Illinois in 1846. Caught in a series of early-autumn snowstorms at what is now known as Donner Lake, members of the wagon train were forced to eat the bodies of their deceased companions in order to survive the premature winter.
The tragedy is remembered at the Emigrant Trail Museum (Donner Memorial State Park, 12593 Donner Pass Rd. off I-80, Truckee, 530/582-7892, www.parks.ca.gov, 10am-5pm daily, $8 day-use fee, museum entrance free). The museum highlights the mid-1800s emigrant movement with a collection of displays, including a fully loaded covered wagon and a slide show detailing the horrific Donner story. Exhibits also interpret the history of Donner Pass, including the building of the transcontinental railroad, the ice-harvesting and lumber businesses, and the lifestyles of the local Native Americans.
A few hundred feet away is the Pioneer Monument, an impressive bronze statue that honors the thousands of emigrants who attempted the arduous trek across the western mountains. Its 22-foot-high pedestal marks the depth of snow that trapped the Donner Party in this valley. The cabin site of the Murphy family, where 16 Donner Party members from three different families spent the winter of 1846-1847, is a short walk away. Built in haste as the snow fell, a large boulder was used as one wall of the earthen-floor cabin.
A few miles away, the Donner Party is also remembered at the Donner Historical Site, four miles north of Truckee and I-80 on Highway 89. A short interpretive trail leads you to the tree where other members of the Donner Party pitched their tents and struggled through winter.
For spectacular views of Donner Lake, Truckee, the surrounding mountains, and the magnificent rock cliffs for which Donner Pass is famous, drive Old Highway 40 and stop at McGlashan Point, an overlook adjacent to Donner Summit Bridge. The concrete arch bridge itself is a beautiful work of architecture. Often called the Rainbow Bridge, it was completed in 1926 and featured a unique curve and span for that time. Constructed for $40,000, it was revered as an engineering marvel, and it was a key link in the Lincoln Highway, the first transcontinental road in the United States.
Today, the bridge and the old highway are a view-rich, quiet alternative to driving I-80. The historic route and the interstate run parallel for about 11 miles. From I-80 heading west, take the Donner Lake exit to Donner Pass Road, then turn right. From I-80 heading east, take the Soda Springs exit and follow it to Donner Pass.
The following hikes are listed from west to east along the I-80 corridor, and from north to south along the Highway 89/Emerald Bay Road corridor.
For hiking information, contact the Tahoe National Forest, Truckee Ranger District (10342 Hwy. 89, Truckee, 530/587-3558, www.fs.fed.us/r5/tahoe) or Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit (35 College Dr., South Lake Tahoe, 530/543-2600, www.fs.fed.us/r5/ltbmu). For trails in Ed Z’berg Sugar Pine Point State Park or D. L. Bliss State Park, contact California State Parks Sierra District (7360 W. Lake Blvd., Tahoma, 530/525-7277 or 530/525-7232, www.parks.ca.gov).
If you’d like to go on a guided hike, contact Tahoe Trips and Trails (10918 Brockway Rd., Truckee, 530/587-2251 or 800/581-4453, www.tahoetrips.com), a company that offers various day-hiking trips combined with overnight stays at area lodgings.
Distance: 7.8 miles round-trip
Duration: 4 hours
Effort: Moderate
Elevation change: 1,100 feet
Trailhead: Loch Leven Lakes
Directions: From I-80 near Soda Springs, take the Big Bend/Rainbow Rd. exit and drive 1 mile west on Hampshire Rocks Rd. to the trailhead parking area, which is 0.2 mile east of the Big Bend Visitor Center and 0.5 mile west of Rainbow Lodge. The trail begins across the road from the parking area.
The Loch Leven Lakes are like a little slice of heaven on earth—three granite-backed bodies of water that can be reached by a moderate hike of only 3.9 miles one-way. If only the trailhead wasn’t right off I-80, this hike truly would be heaven. Unfortunately, because of the too-easy trailhead access, this is one of the most heavily trampled destinations in the North Tahoe region. Another problem is that for the first mile or so, you can’t escape the constantly annoying sound of I-80 traffic. But once you top the ridge, you leave all sounds of civilization behind and are able to focus on the gorgeous Sierra scenery.
The trailhead elevation is 5,700 feet, and the path leads through a glaciated landscape of huge granite boulders scattered amid Jeffrey and lodgepole pines. After crossing a creek and a set of railroad tracks, the path climbs a steep 800 feet in only 1.3 miles, then reaches the ridgetop and descends slightly to the lowest of the three Loch Leven Lakes, 2.7 miles from the trailhead. A crowd is usually congregated here, so go left at the junction by the lake and continue another 0.5 mile to the middle Loch Leven Lake, or better still, another 1.2 miles to the upper lake, High Loch Leven, 3.9 miles from the start and the most beautiful of them all. Because much of the last stretch of trail traverses granite slabs, some hikers have difficulty locating the upper lake, but there is usually someone around who can show you the way. If not, keep your eyes peeled for trail cairns; they’ll guide you right to the lakeshore. If you have the energy to add a fourth lake to your itinerary, you can follow a side trail leading right (west) from the lowest Loch Leven Lake to Salmon Lake, just under a mile away.
Distance: 6.6 miles round-trip
Duration: 3 hours
Effort: Moderate
Elevation change: 500 feet
Trailhead: Soda Springs
Directions: From I-80 near Soda Springs, take the Soda Springs/Norden exit and cross over the overpass to the north side of the freeway. Follow the paved road east, past the fire station, for 0.3 mile to the trailhead parking area.
At 7,200 feet in elevation, Lola Montez Lake has all the scenic qualities of a high alpine lake, but without the frigid water. The lake is shallow enough so that in most years it warms up enough for swimming by July, making it a favorite destination for vacationers and locals alike in the Soda Springs area. However, partly because the trail is so easy, partly because it is right off I-80, and partly because it is favored by mountain bikers, this path is a bad choice for a summer weekend afternoon. For hikers who enjoy peace and quiet, save this hike for the off-season (autumn is lovely), or in summer, stick to weekday mornings only.
The first couple of miles of the route cut through a private housing development called Toll Mountain Estates on a mix of wide dirt road and single-track trail. In order to keep hikers and mountain bikers off private property, the path is well signed, so you’re in no danger of getting lost. After about an hour of walking along alternating trail and dirt road, you come out to a meadow and a trail fork. Bear right for the lake, which is now only 0.25 mile ahead. Fishing in Lower Lola Montez Lake is decent, but swimming is the main event. Who was Lola Montez, anyway? One of the most colorful characters of the Old West, she operated a saloon in the 1850s in the mining town of Grass Valley.
Distance: 5.2 miles round-trip
Duration: 2.5 hours
Effort: Moderate
Elevation change: 1,200 feet
Trailhead: Pacific Crest Trail/Sugar Bowl Academy
Directions: From I-80 near Soda Springs, take the Soda Springs/Norden exit and follow Old Hwy. 40 east for 4 miles to just beyond Donner Ski Ranch. Turn right into the parking lot for Sugar Bowl Academy, then turn right on a dirt and gravel road and drive 100 yards to the Pacific Crest Trail on the left, at a gated road. (You can also access the trailhead by driving from Donner Lake west up to the original Donner Pass along Old Hwy. 40; the trailhead is just beyond the pass.)
If you don’t mind the appearance of ski-lift operations marring your nature experience, the Mount Judah Loop is a fine hike that offers outstanding views of Lake Mary, Donner Lake, Martis Valley, Castle Peak, and Lake Van Norden, among other landmarks.
The trail begins by following the Pacific Crest Trail from near Donner Summit off Old Highway 40, and it climbs gradually but steadily all the way to the top of Mount Judah. One mile from the trailhead, bear left on the Mount Judah Trail to start along the loop. A few spur trails lead off to the left, heading to high overlooks above the Donner basin, but just stay on the main path, which soon becomes an old dirt road. At 1.6 miles the climb tops out at a saddle below the multiple granite spires of Donner Peak, elevation 8,019 feet. Look just to the left of the trail to find an Emigrant Trail marker that designates Emigrant Pass, elevation 7,850 feet. Don’t miss the chance to climb up and explore Donner Peak’s odd collection of summit pinnacles, where you’ll enjoy marvelous views, especially of Donner Lake far below. (The highest pinnacles require climbing equipment and experience to reach, but some of the lower ones are an easy walk up.)
From the saddle, continue south along the trail for another mile to Mount Judah’s 8,243-foot summit, a bald, windswept high point along a view-filled volcanic ridge. Beyond the summit, the loop trail switchbacks downhill and westward for 0.7 mile until meeting up with the Pacific Crest Trail, where you head right. You’ll pass underneath the Sugar Bowl chairlift on your return, then walk through an impressive grove of big red firs on your way back to the trailhead.
Distance: 10 miles round-trip
Duration: 6 hours
Effort: Moderate/strenuous
Elevation change: 1,700 feet
Trailhead: Cascade Lakes
Directions: From I-80 near Soda Springs, take the Soda Springs/Norden exit and follow Old Hwy. 40 east for 0.8 mile to Soda Springs Rd. Turn right (south) and drive 0.8 mile to Pahatsi Rd. Turn right. Pahatsi Rd. turns to dirt in 0.2 mile, and its name changes to Kidd Lakes Rd. At 1.5 miles, you’ll reach a fork. Continue straight for 2.3 more miles, then bear left at a fork and drive 0.5 mile farther. The trailhead is on the north side of the Cascade Lakes.
A hike to Heath Falls is like going on vacation on your credit card. You can have all the fun you want, but when you return home, you have to pay up. That’s because the trip is downhill nearly all the way, dropping 1,700 feet over five miles through lovely alpine scenery. But alas, eventually it’s time for the return trip—a long and steady climb over those same five miles.
The trail begins at the dam between the two Cascade Lakes, the first of many lakes you’ll pass on this trip. Walk across the dam and spillway, then follow the trail through a lodgepole pine forest, heading to your right at a sign for the North Fork American River. Prepare for a steady diet of granite, lakes, and vistas. You’ll hike past 7,704-foot Devil’s Peak and pretty Long Lake, as well as several smaller, unnamed lakes and ponds. At 2.2 miles, the trail leaves this exposed, glaciated landscape behind and moves into a dense forest of cedars and firs, then switchbacks downhill for 2 miles to the Palisade Creek Bridge. Look for a junction 300 yards beyond the bridge where the Heath Falls Overlook Trail heads east. Follow it for 0.5 mile to the trail’s end at a vista of Heath Falls on the North Fork American River. The overlook is a fair distance from the falls, which are sheltered deep in the canyon, but you can still hear and see the white water thundering over rock cliffs and into big pools. The land surrounding the waterfall is private property, so exploring any closer than the overlook is forbidden. After soaking in the scenery for as long as you wish, prepare yourself for the long uphill return trip.
Distance: 4.4 miles round-trip
Duration: 2 hours
Effort: Easy
Elevation change: 400 feet
Trailhead: Donner Summit/Pacific Crest Trail
Directions: From I-80 west of Donner Summit, take the Boreal Ridge/Castle Peak exit. Drive to the frontage road on the south side of I-80, then continue 0.3 mile east to the road’s end at the trailhead for the Pacific Crest Trail.
This easy hike is a perfect leg-stretcher for families who have grown weary of the drive to Tahoe and want to get out of the car before reaching their final destination. The trail begins at the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) Trailhead at Donner Summit and ends 2.2 miles later at a pretty alpine lake at 7,395 feet. The numerous junctions along the way are clearly marked.
A half mile from the start, turn left and follow the PCT Access Trail north (signed for Castle Pass and Peter Grubb Hut) through a tunnel underneath I-80. On the north side of the freeway is another junction; bear right for Summit and Warren Lakes. The trail climbs gently through a fir forest and occasionally breaks out of the trees to wide granite slabs that allow views to the south and east. At 1.7 miles you reach the start of the Warren Lake Trail; take the right fork for Summit Lake and travel the final 0.5 mile to the mostly forested lakeshore. Swimming, fishing, and picnicking are common activities here. The only thing that mars the scenery is the distant sound of car traffic moving along I-80.
Those seeking a longer trip and a stiff climb can bear left instead at the 1.7-mile fork and follow the Warren Lake Trail to a high overlook atop the bald granite cliffs above Frog Lake, 1.8 miles farther (follow the 150-yard spur trail on the right to the best views). Or, for the truly hard-core, the trail continues another 3.5 miles beyond the overlook to Warren Lake, which is popular with backpackers but rarely visited by day hikers. The round-trip hike to Warren Lake is a full 15 miles with a butt-kicking 3,800 feet of elevation gain (1,900 feet in each direction).
Distance: 5.4-9.4 miles round-trip
Duration: 3-5 hours
Effort: Moderate/strenuous
Elevation change: 2,100 feet
Trailhead: Donner Summit/Pacific Crest Trail
Directions: From I-80 west of Donner Summit, take the Boreal Ridge/Castle Peak exit. Drive to the frontage road on the south side of I-80, then continue 0.3 mile east to the road’s end at the trailhead for the Pacific Crest Trail.
The turreted summit of 9,103-foot Castle Peak is a worthwhile destination for any crystal-clear day, when the peak’s panorama can extend for 100 miles north to Lassen Peak and west to the Diablo Range. The throat of an ancient volcano, Castle Peak is a well-known destination for backcountry skiers and snowshoers in winter, but an equally worthwhile summer trek.
The trail is the same as that to Summit Lake for the first mile to the junction after the tunnel crossing underneath I-80. Here you’ll leave the Summit Lake Trail behind and head left (west) for Castle Pass, staying on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). As the trail nears the Donner Summit Rest Area on I-80 (keep right at all junctions, still heading west), you’ll pass a small pond and finally leave the highway behind as you hike northwest along the PCT to Castle Pass. The path crosses a dirt road at slightly more than 2 miles out, as well as several seasonal streams, causing potential wet feet as late as July. At Castle Pass, 3.5 miles from your start, look for an obvious use trail heading right (northeast) off the PCT, and follow it for 1.2 memorably steep miles to the west summit of Castle Peak. Use caution on the loose volcanic rock; the last 0.5 mile or so requires some scrambling, but the wide summit view is more than worth the effort. The eastern turret of the “castle” is the highest summit.
Castle Peak is a popular hike in summer and a snowshoe trek in winter.
Note that many people cut 2 miles off the length of this hike (or 4 miles round-trip) by parking on the north side of I-80 along Castle Valley Road, which turns to dirt and gets progressively rougher after the first 0.25 mile. Park alongside the road and then hike to Castle Pass via the dirt road/trail instead of the Pacific Crest Trail. The dirt road and PCT junction at the pass.
Distance: 2 miles round-trip
Duration: 1 hour
Effort: Easy
Elevation change: 50 feet
Trailhead: Donner Lake
Directions: From I-80 near Donner Summit, drive 0.8 mile west on I-80 to the Donner Pass Rd. exit (not the Donner Lake exit). Turn left and cross over I-80, then continue along the frontage road for 0.5 mile to the Donner Memorial State Park entrance on the left ($8 day-use fee per vehicle). Once you pass through the entrance kiosk, take the right fork for the picnic and day-use area at China Cove. Park at the far end of the picnic area lot and walk to the lakeshore to pick up the trail.
The Donner Lakeshore Trail begins at the sandy swimming area at China Cove and parallels the southeast shoreline of three-mile-long Donner Lake. The path travels for a mile along the Jeffrey pine-dotted shoreline and features more than a dozen interpretive plaques with information about the area’s history, geography, and ecology. Among many other facts, you’ll learn about the amphibians that reside in and around Donner Lake, how the lake was formed by the movement of glaciers, and why and how the train tracks were built on the steep slopes of Donner Summit. The hike is level and easy, and the lakeside scenery is lovely every step of the way; the only downer is that you never quite escape the sound of I-80 across the canyon. Every now and then, you’ll even hear the wail of a train churning up the tracks to Truckee or Reno. The trail ends by the lagoon on the east side of the lake, along the banks of Donner Creek. Before or after walking this pleasant trail, be sure to stop in at the Emigrant Trail Museum at the park; it offers some fascinating insights into this history-rich area.
Distance: 15 miles round-trip
Duration: 8 hours
Effort: Strenuous
Elevation change: 3,200 feet
Trailhead: Squaw Valley Fire Station
Directions: From Tahoe City, drive north on Hwy. 89 for 5 miles and then turn west on Squaw Valley Rd. Drive 2.2 miles to the Squaw Valley Fire Station on the right side of the road, just before the Olympic Village Inn. The trail begins on the east side of the fire station, but you must park your car in the large parking lot by the ski-lift buildings, then walk back to the trailhead.
Tinker Knob is not an easy summit to attain, but those who reach it always remember it. From the Squaw Valley Fire Station, it’s a challenging 3.8-mile hike on the Granite Chief Trail to a junction with the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT), gaining 2,000 feet along the way. (You can “cheat” on this section of trail by riding the cable car at Squaw Valley uphill to the PCT, cutting your mileage nearly in half and knocking off three-quarters of the elevation gain.) Much of the ascent is forested, but occasional openings through the trees allow views of Squaw Valley, Lake Tahoe, and surrounding peaks. At just over 2 miles out, the trail crosses a massive granite slab divided into a series of wildflower-decorated benches; the path is marked by yellow paint.
When you reach the PCT, turn right (north) toward Tinker Knob. The next 3.5 miles follow an easier grade along the ridgetop, but with a cruel twist of fate the trail actually descends, losing 500 feet of hard-won elevation that will have to be regained later. The last stretch of trail follows a series of switchbacks up to Tinker Knob Saddle, where impressive views await and a trail on the right heads off to Coldstream Valley. Continuing another 0.25 mile northwest on the PCT leads to a high point from which you can leave the trail and climb 0.25 mile south to Tinker Knob’s volcanic summit at 8,960 feet. A few rock cairns mark the top, where a head-swiveling vista—of Anderson Peak, Painted Rock, Silver Peak, Mount Rose, Granite Chief, the Royal Gorge of the American River Canyon, Donner Lake, and, of course, Lake Tahoe—awaits weary hikers.
Note that it is possible to shorten this hike by making a one-way shuttle trip. You’ll need a second car waiting for you at the Coldstream Trailhead near Donner Memorial State Park. The Coldstream Trail meets the PCT just below the summit of Tinker Knob, so after gaining the summit via the route already described, you simply follow the Coldstream Trail 5.5 miles down to its trailhead. This makes a 13-mile one-way hike with a car shuttle. Some people also arrange a shuttle hike from the PCT Trailhead near Old Donner Pass (Old Highway 40), making a 15-mile one-way trip.
Distance: 11 miles round-trip
Duration: 6 hours
Effort: Strenuous
Elevation change: 2,800 feet
Trailhead: Squaw Valley Fire Station
Directions: From Tahoe City, drive north on Hwy. 89 for 5 miles and then turn west on Squaw Valley Rd. Drive 2.2 miles to the Squaw Valley Fire Station on the right side of the road, just before the Olympic Village Inn. The trail begins on the east side of the fire station, but you must park your car in the large parking lot by the ski-lift buildings, then walk back to the trailhead.
As with the trail to Tinker Knob, it is possible to utilize a “hiker’s handicap” by riding the Squaw Valley cable car to cut off more than 4 miles of hiking (each way), plus most of this trip’s elevation gain. But if you decide to hike those miles instead, you’ll know that you’ve truly earned the summit of 9,086-foot Granite Chief, one of the highest points in the Granite Chief Wilderness and the highest point in Placer County.
From the Squaw Valley Fire Station, follow the Granite Chief Trail uphill for 3.8 miles, gaining a stiff 2,000 feet along the way as the trail alternates through dense forest and a series of exposed granite slabs. When you reach the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT), go left (south) toward Twin Peaks. The distant view of Lake Tahoe is stunning from here, but keep ascending, and more views will be your reward. (Try to ignore the ski-lift towers and other manufactured structures that mar the natural scenery.) After a sustained climb of about a mile, you reach the eastern flank of Granite Chief, and the PCT starts to descend. Leave the trail here and head right for 0.4 mile, following any of several use trails that lead to the summit of Granite Chief. On top of “the Chief” a banquet of peaks come into perspective, including Twin Peaks, Tinker Knob, Castle Peak, Needle Peak, and those of the jagged Crystal Range in the Desolation Wilderness. Some of Lake Tahoe can also be seen.
If you still have energy to burn after visiting Granite Chief, return to the PCT and hike southward for another 150 yards to a junction with the Emigrant Trail, leading 0.3 mile east to the Watson Monument on the saddle of Emigrant Peak. (This trail then continues to High Camp at Squaw Valley, so those who took the cable car instead of hiking up Granite Chief Trail will have already passed this way.) A short side trip to the stone Watson Monument provides a slightly different view of the North Tahoe basin, but don’t expect much from the monument itself. Built by Bob Watson in 1931 to commemorate the pioneers who traveled this hazardous route through Emigrant Pass in the 1850s, the monument has deteriorated to the point where it is little more than a pile of rocks.
Loop lovers who wish to return to the base of Squaw Valley via a different route can continue to High Camp, get a meal or a snack if they so desire, and then follow the Shirley Lake/Shirley Canyon Trail back downhill.
Distance: 2.5-5 miles round-trip
Duration: 1-3 hours
Effort: Moderate
Elevation change: Varies
Trailhead: Squaw Valley Ski Area
Directions: From Tahoe City, drive north on Hwy. 89 for 5 miles and then turn west on Squaw Valley Rd. Drive 2.2 miles to where the road curves left into the main ski-area parking lot. Turn right on Squaw Peak Rd. and follow it past a condominium complex to its junction with Squaw Peak Way. Park alongside the road near this junction. Or, for a one-way downhill trip, park in the ski-area lot and ride the cable car to High Camp ($14-19 fee). Begin your hike there.
You have a couple of choices for this hike in lovely Shirley Canyon, which follows Squaw Creek past a series of waterfalls, cascades, and swimming holes. If you just want to take a short out-and-back hike and perhaps have a picnic or swim in Squaw Creek, you can start at the Squaw Peak Road/Squaw Peak Way junction and follow the trail as far as you like. Most people just go for a mile or so up this watery, flower-filled canyon, which is laced with a spiderweb of use trails. Some hikers travel as far as Shirley Lake, 2.5 miles up the trail and with 1,500 feet of elevation gain.
If you’d like to enjoy a scenic gondola ride with your hike, you can take the Squaw Valley cable car to High Camp (your leashed dog is allowed to join you, at no charge), then head out the back of the station and follow the ski-lift maintenance road to the right and steeply downhill to Shirley Lake, 1.5 miles from High Camp. Although the ride on the aerial tramway is a winner, this is a somewhat forbidding stretch of trail—the dirt road is wide, exposed, and hot. Fortunately it is over with quickly since you are going downhill.
Shirley Lake is small but pretty, with low granite cliffs on one side that invite jumping off. From the lake, continue 2.5 miles downhill through gorgeous Shirley Canyon, now on a narrow trail, eventually returning to the end of Squaw Peak Way, where you have an easy walk on the road back to your car. Note that although the trail is quite obvious in lower Shirley Canyon, it is a little harder to find in upper Shirley Canyon, especially in the first mile below the lake, where the trail traverses granite slabs and travels over and around rock boulders. Dabs of paint and trail cairns mark the way. Watch for them, and remember to keep the creek on your left.
Distance: 4.2 miles round-trip
Duration: 2-3 hours
Effort: Easy to moderate
Elevation change: 1,000 feet
Trailhead: Five Lakes
Directions: From Tahoe City, drive north on Hwy. 89 for 3.6 miles and turn west on Alpine Meadows Rd. Drive 2.1 miles to the Five Lakes Trailhead on the right side of the road. Park alongside the road.
Some say that this trek into the Granite Chief Wilderness is so easy that it is actually too easy, and they may be right. Although the trail has a moderately steep grade, it is mercifully short, which makes it incredibly popular with casual weekend hikers. If possible, visit here in the off-season or on a weekday to experience the least amount of crowds along the trail.
The trail takes off from Alpine Meadows Road, and the first 0.5 mile has the steepest grade. The next 0.75 mile continues uphill more gradually to the top of a granite ridge, completing a total 1,000-foot ascent. Switchbacks make the climb quite manageable, but welcome shade from occasional Jeffrey pines and white firs is in short supply along the route, so the trail can be hot. Views of the steep canyon below the ridge are impressive. At 1.8 miles, you reach the Granite Chief Wilderness boundary and enter a land of red fir and gray granite. A signed junction 0.25 mile farther points you left toward the lakes. The trail heads directly downhill to the largest of the five bodies of water at 7,500 feet in elevation. From there, you can follow side trails to the four other lakes, all east of the big one. Most people don’t go any farther than the first big lake, where the swimming is nonpareil—the shallow water is clear and remarkably warm. A few white pines and hemlocks line the lakeshore, interspersed with stretches of grassy marsh and big, rounded boulders.
Distance: 2.8 miles round-trip
Duration: 1 hour
Effort: Easy
Elevation change: 500 feet
Trailhead: Tahoe Rim Trail/Brockway Summit East
Directions: From Hwy. 28 on the North Shore, take Hwy. 267 north toward Brockway Summit, then turn right (east) at the sign for the Tahoe Rim Trail, 0.5 mile before the summit (Forest Service Rd. 16N56). Drive about 200 yards and park by the trail signboard.
For an easy, short hike with a spectacular view, it’s hard to beat this short walk on the Tahoe Rim Trail. From the Brockway Summit Trailhead, follow the Tahoe Rim Trail north up the hill. After 0.5 mile of very gentle climbing, bear left on the clearly signed Spur View Trail. Continue uphill on a series of switchbacks, ascending more steeply, until you reach an obvious viewpoint lined with jagged volcanic boulders and sagebrush. This spot provides a commanding view of Lake Tahoe to the south. Taking this short leg-stretcher might easily inspire you to continue your travels along the Tahoe Rim Trail. This section from Brockway Summit East to Tahoe Meadows (18.9 miles of the total 165-mile trail) is well known for having some of the best views along the entire route. It was the last section of the long-distance trail to be completed.
Distance: 12 miles round-trip
Duration: 6-7 hours
Effort: Strenuous
Elevation change: 2,400 feet
Trailhead: Tahoe Rim Trail/Twin Peaks
Directions: From Tahoe City, drive 2.5 miles south on Hwy. 89 to Pineland Dr., which is 0.2 mile south of William Kent Campground. Turn west on Pineland Dr. and drive 0.4 mile, then bear left on Twin Peaks Dr. Drive 1.6 miles (the road becomes Ward Creek Blvd., also signed as Twin Peaks Blvd.) to the Tahoe Rim Trail/Twin Peaks Trailhead on the left side of the road.
It’s hard to believe, but during July and early August, the wildflowers along the trail to Twin Peaks often steal the show from the double peaks’ spectacular summit view. Time your trip for the peak of the flower bloom and decide for yourself which feature is the more memorable aspect of this trip.
Begin your hike by walking around the Twin Peaks Trailhead gate and following the old dirt road alongside coursing Ward Creek. The flower show is just beginning as you travel the pleasant first 2 miles of road/trail on a nearly level course. Shortly after crossing a small creek where old bridge foundations can be seen, the dirt road narrows to a trail, and at 2.3 miles from the start, you’ll reach a crossing of Ward Creek. Hikers out for a casual stroll usually turn around here, but those heading for Twin Peaks must rock-hop their way across the stream, then begin a more noticeable ascent alongside Ward Creek. The flower gardens become increasingly showy over the next mile, as the trail sticks close to the creek’s south side. During the peak bloom, more than two dozen species are in full color here.
After passing a boisterous waterfall at 3.3 miles, you leave the creek behind and begin a breathless climb through increasingly short and steep switchbacks. This is where much of the work lies on this trail. At 5.2 miles from the start, the trail gains the top of a ridge at 8,000 feet. Here, at a junction, a trail on the left leads 1 mile to Stanford Rock, a worthy destination in its own right with a view almost as fine as Twin Peaks. For Twin Peaks, go right instead and climb more gently for 1 mile to a junction with a narrow use trail on the right. Follow this trail northwest to the eastern summit of Twin Peaks, elevation 8,878 feet. Because of the loose talus rock and steep incline, the last stretch to the east summit requires careful scrambling using two hands and two feet. Those who feel uncomfortable with the risk factor may prefer to ascend the western summit of Twin Peaks. The view from either peak is no disappointment; both deliver a full panorama of easily identifiable landmarks covering the entire Tahoe basin. Be sure to bring a map with you so you can pick out Granite Chief, Tinker Knob, Mount Rose, Freel Peak, and Mount Tallac, amid a host of lesser-known peaks and precipices.
Distance: 10 miles round-trip
Duration: 5-6 hours
Effort: Moderate
Elevation change: 1,600 feet
Trailhead: Barker Pass
Directions: From Tahoe City, drive 4 miles south on Hwy. 89 to Barker Pass Rd. (Forest Service Rd. 03), just south of the Kaspian Campground and picnic area. Turn right (west) and drive 7 miles to the end of the pavement, then continue on the dirt road for 0.3 mile to the Barker Pass/Pacific Crest Trail/Tahoe Rim Trail Trailhead. Begin hiking on the right (north) side of the road.
Although the Ward Creek route to Twin Peaks delivers the most scenic punch during the wildflower season, when the bloom is over you might want to choose a somewhat easier route to the 8,878-foot peaks and their world-class summit view. From Barker Pass, you can follow the Pacific Crest Trail/Tahoe Rim Trail north for 5 miles to Twin Peaks, enjoying a relatively mellow grade and views much of the way. Flower lovers will still be able to find some color on this trip, especially from the prolific mule’s ears that favor the volcanic soils in this area.
The trail from Barker Pass begins with a climb up the slopes of 8,166-foot Barker Peak to a ridgeline with fine views of the surrounding volcanic landscape. It then descends into a dense forest of hemlock, white fir, and massive red firs. Over the next 1.5 miles, the trail loses almost 500 feet in elevation, which then must be gained back in a series of well-graded switchbacks that curve upward to a high point, 4.2 miles out. Here, you are rewarded with impressive vistas every way you look. Enjoy the view, and look forward to an even better one from the twin summits of Twin Peaks, now less than a mile away. Depart the Pacific Crest Trail at the right turnoff for the Tahoe Rim Trail; turn right and walk a short distance to the obvious use trail on the left heading up to Twin Peaks. The western summit is the closest and easiest to attain; both summits offer a classic Tahoe view, with dozens of easily recognizable peaks in sight.
Distance: 8.2 miles round-trip
Duration: 3-4 hours
Effort: Strenuous
Elevation change: 1,400 feet
Trailhead: Barker Pass
Directions: From Tahoe City, drive 4 miles south on Hwy. 89 to Barker Pass Rd. (Forest Service Rd. 03), just south of the Kaspian Campground and picnic area. Turn right (west) and drive 7 miles to the end of the pavement (0.3 mile before the Barker Pass/Pacific Crest Trail Trailhead). The trailhead and a dirt parking area are on the left (south) side of the road.
This short but memorably steep trip leads to the top of 8,740-foot Ellis Peak, where peak-baggers are rewarded with a fabulous view of Lake Tahoe, the Granite Chief and Desolation Wildernesses, and Hell Hole Reservoir. In fact, the hike is rewarding all the way, not just at the top, as the trail’s wildflower displays rival its far-off views.
The initial 0.7 mile of trail is the steepest part, but there is plentiful shade from big red firs along this stretch. When you reach the ridgetop, the vistas spread wide, with Lake Tahoe to the east and Hell Hole Reservoir to the west. Mule’s ears and other wildflowers bloom in profusion on this sunny, windswept ridge. The trail continues climbing gently along the ridgeline for 0.5 mile, then heads abruptly downhill through a lodgepole pine and fir forest, dropping 400 feet in elevation. At a junction with a wide dirt road, bear left to head for Ellis Peak, and prepare to face a confusing series of dirt road and trail junctions. In 0.25 mile, you’ll note a left spur trail, but stay on the road until you reach a signed junction, 2.8 miles from your start. A left turn here will take you downhill to Ellis Lake in less than 0.5 mile, a worthwhile side trip. Staying straight at the junction, you’ll follow a narrower trail steeply uphill and then shortly rejoin the dirt road, which continues its ascent to Ellis Peak. As you gain Knee Ridge, Ellis Peak’s summit is clearly visible; a little more huffing and puffing, and you arrive at the top. The summit view extends from Pyramid Peak in the Desolation Wilderness to the eastern shores of Lake Tahoe, with a few close-up landmarks like nearby Twin Peaks adding dimension to the scene. Note that you may share this trail with mountain bikers or possibly even off-road-vehicle users.
Distance: 6.6 miles round-trip
Duration: 4 hours
Effort: Moderate
Elevation change: 400 feet
Trailhead: Ed Z’berg Sugar Pine Point State Park
Directions: From Tahoe City, drive 8 miles south on Hwy. 89 to the Sugar Pine Point State Park General Creek Campground entrance on the right. Park in one of the day-use lots near the entrance kiosk ($10 fee per vehicle), then follow the trail to the far end of the campground and site number 149.
Campers at Sugar Pine Point State Park who want to hike right from their tent flaps can do so on the General Creek Loop Trail (as can any noncampers who are willing to pay the state park day-use fee). The trail begins by site number 149 and forms a loop heading up one side of General Creek and back on the other. A wide and level dirt road, the loop is popular with cross-country skiers in winter.
For this hike to Lily Pond, follow the north side of the General Creek Loop for 2.7 miles through a pleasant forest of white fir, incense cedar, and Jeffrey and sugar pines to its junction with a single-track trail on the right to Lily Pond. Leave the loop and follow the narrow trail uphill for 0.6 mile, through a dense and rocky forest, to small, tranquil Lily Pond, which is indeed covered with lilies. This peaceful spot is a good place to look for birds or amphibians. For your return, you can opt to take the south side of the General Creek Loop for variety. Turn left on the bridge over General Creek to head back to the campground.
The Tahoe Rim Trail (TRT) is one of the greatest achievements in the history of trail building in California. Completed in 2001 after nearly 20 years of effort, the 165-mile trail makes a complete circuit around Lake Tahoe, ranging in elevation from 6,300 feet to 10,338 feet. Marked with light blue triangular TRT markers, the trail is accessible in most years mid-June-late October, depending on snow levels. Hiking and horseback riding are allowed on all portions of the trail, and mountain biking is permitted on much of it.
An easy hike leads to a big view of the North Shore from the Tahoe Rim Trail.
The trail is accessed by nine major trailheads. Starting at Tahoe City and going clockwise around the lake, they are: Truckee River Access/64 Acres Park in Tahoe City, Brockway Summit, Tahoe Meadows, Spooner Summit, Kingsbury Grade, Big Meadow, Echo Summit, Echo Lakes, and Barker Pass. A half dozen other trailheads also provide access to the trail. On much of the west side of the lake, the TRT and the long-distance Pacific Crest Trail, which travels from Canada to Mexico, are one and the same.
Although the vast majority of trail users hike or mountain bike on only short stretches of the Tahoe Rim Trail, it is possible to hike the entire thing, and many have accomplished that feat. Most people take about 10-20 days to hike the complete circuit. Camping is permitted on all parts of the trail except in Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park, where it is limited to two designated areas, and in the Desolation Wilderness portion of the trail, where overnight permits are required. In a few places, the trail passes right through a town (such as in Tahoe City), so it is relatively easy to restock your pack with food and supplies. At several points, the trail crosses roads or highways where you could arrange for friends or family to meet you with a food drop. The trail is subject to temporary closures due to weather conditions or trail work, so if you are planning a multiday trek, always check the website www.tahoerimtrail.org for the latest updates.
The Tahoe Rim Trail Association, which is headquartered in Incline Village, sponsors a wide variety of guided hikes and snowshoe tours along the 165-mile trail, as well as clinics on winter camping, map and GPS skills, wilderness first aid, and the like. Most events are free; check the website for a current schedule. The TRT is maintained mostly by volunteers, and the nonprofit Tahoe Rim Trail Association (775/298-0012, www.tahoerimtrail.org) can always use additional volunteers and/or donations. Donors can become a member of the association for as little as $35 per person or $45 per family.
Those looking for a much longer hike can continue on the main trail along General Creek for as long as they wish. The forested shore of lovely Lost Lake is a total of 6.5 miles from the campground and makes a fine destination for a long day hike. If you visit both Lily Pond and Lost Lake, you’ll complete a round-trip of 14.2 miles.
Distance: 10-12.4 miles round-trip
Duration: 5-6 hours
Effort: Moderate
Elevation change: 1,200-1,600 feet
Trailhead: Meeks Bay
Directions: From Tahoe City, drive 11 miles south on Hwy. 89 to the Meeks Bay Trailhead on the west side of the highway, across from the entrance to Meeks Bay Resort. Park in the small dirt parking lot. Day hikers must fill out a self-serve permit at the trailhead.
The Meeks Bay Trailhead offers one of the easiest entrances to the Desolation Wilderness, and the Meeks Creek Watershed contains half a dozen scenic lakes—two reasons why this trail is quite popular with day hikers and backpackers alike. The first 1.3 miles of the Meeks Creek Trail (also known as the Tahoe-Yosemite Trail) to the wilderness boundary follow an old dirt road that runs alongside Meeks Creek and is almost completely level. It’s a perfect warm-up for hikers who have just driven to the trailhead and gotten out of their cars. At the Desolation boundary sign, the trail forks right off the dirt road and begins a gradual, forested climb. As you gain the ridge, the white fir and Jeffrey pine are replaced by higher-elevation red fir and western white pine. After crossing Meeks Creek on a footbridge at 3.2 miles, the trail climbs some more until the forest opens up to views of the surrounding glaciated landscape. You arrive at the pine-forested shore of shallow Lake Genevieve at 4.6 miles from the start. This small lake is worthy of a brief rest stop; then follow the trail to the left around its eastern shoreline to Crag Lake at 5 miles. As you might expect, a craggy peak looms behind it. Most day hikers make this scenic, swimmable lake their final destination, but those with extra energy can continue the ascent to lily-covered Shadow Lake at 5.3 miles or Stony Ridge Lake at 6.2 miles. The largest of the lakes in this basin, long and narrow Stony Ridge Lake, at 7,800 feet, is marked by reddish-colored granite and framed by Rubicon Peak and Jakes Peak.
Distance: 5.5 miles one-way
Duration: 2.5 hours
Effort: Moderate
Elevation change: 500 feet
Trailhead: D. L. Bliss
Directions: From Tahoe City, drive 15.5 miles south on Hwy. 89 and turn left at the sign for D. L. Bliss State Park. Drive 0.5 mile to the entrance station ($10 day-use fee per vehicle), then continue 0.7 mile to a fork. Bear right at the sign for Camps 141-168 and Beach Area, and drive 0.7 mile to the Calawee Cove Beach parking lot. The Rubicon Trail begins on the far side of the lot.
The Rubicon Trail is Tahoe’s premier lakeshore hike. If you want to get the maximum dose of Lake Tahoe eye candy, with lots of postcard-perfect views of rocky inlets, sandy coves, and boats bobbing in the water, this is your trail. The hike runs 4.5 miles one-way from D. L. Bliss State Park to Vikingsholm Castle, and then an additional 1.6 miles from Vikingsholm to Eagle Point Campground at Emerald Bay State Park. Since there is no day-use parking at Eagle Point Campground, most hikers just follow the stretch of trail between D. L. Bliss and Vikingsholm Castle, then hike up the Vikingsholm trail/road for 1 mile to its trailhead parking lot on Highway 89, making a total one-way hike of 5.5 miles. You’ll need a shuttle car waiting to pick you up, or, in the summer months, check with the Tahoe Trolley (800/736-6365, www.laketahoetransit.com) to see if they are running bus shuttle service between the two trailheads. Of course, ambitious hikers can follow the trail out and back instead of one-way, completing a round-trip of up to 12 miles.
No matter how you do it, the path stays close to the lakeshore, although often high above it, and has a very relaxed grade. Highlights along the trail include Rubicon Point, Emerald Point, and Vikingsholm Castle, but really, the entire path is a highlight. Don’t miss taking the short side trail that curves around the shoreline at Emerald Point, where the 1920s-era Emerald Bay Resort once stood, and allow some extra time so you can take the short tour of Vikingsholm Castle ($10 adults, $8 children ages 7-17).
Not surprisingly, the trail is extremely crowded, especially in the peak season, so you might want to plan this trip for after Labor Day. The most jammed-up section occurs near the start of the trail in D. L. Bliss State Park by Rubicon Point, where the drop-offs into the lake are so steep that the trail is lined with chain-link fencing, and the path is so narrow that only one person can pass through at a time. Still, even on the busiest days, everybody is in high spirits as they enjoy this eye-popping, film-burning lakeside scenery.
Distance: 2 miles round-trip
Duration: 1 hour
Effort: Easy
Elevation change: 500 feet
Trailhead: D. L. Bliss
Directions: From Tahoe City, drive 15.5 miles south on Hwy. 89 and turn left at the sign for D. L. Bliss State Park. Drive 0.5 mile to the entrance station ($10 day-use fee per vehicle), then continue 0.7 mile to a fork. Bear right at the sign for Camps 141-168 and Beach Area, and drive 0.7 mile to the Calawee Cove Beach parking lot. The Rubicon Trail begins on the far side of the lot.
This short and easy loop follows a scenic stretch of the Rubicon Trail, then visits an interesting piece of Lake Tahoe’s history, the Rubicon Point Lighthouse. You can start this loop at one of two parking lots at D. L. Bliss State Park—the Calawee Cove Beach parking lot, which is the official start of the Rubicon Trail, or the lighthouse parking lot, at which the Lighthouse Trail begins. The route described here begins at Calawee Cove, but it really doesn’t matter where you start.
Pick up the Rubicon Trail from the southeast end of the Calawee Cove parking lot. Scenic rewards are delivered almost immediately; from Rubicon Point, just 0.25 mile in from the parking lot, you can peer several hundred feet down into the lake’s depths. The steep drop-offs from the trail to the lake are so vertical that the park has installed cables and chain-link fencing to keep hikers from inadvertently taking a tumble.
A hiker enjoys the view from the West Shore’s Rubicon Trail.
At 0.5 mile, you’ll see a right spur trail to the old lighthouse. Ignore it; you’ll visit the lighthouse on the return leg of your loop. Stay on the Rubicon Trail for another 0.5 mile, enjoying nonstop lake views and the constant companionship of a bevy of chipmunks. At the next junction, 1 mile from your start, turn right and head for the Lighthouse Trailhead parking lot; walk a short distance through the lot (to your right), and then pick up the Lighthouse Trail and head northeast to complete your loop. A half mile along this trail, you’ll see a right spur leading down granite stairsteps to the restored Rubicon Point Lighthouse. The Coast Guard built a gas-powered lighthouse on Rubicon Point in 1916, but keeping the light supplied with fuel proved too difficult. Even when lit, the lighthouse was so high above the shoreline that it just confused everybody. It was shut down in 1919 and replaced by a newer lighthouse, which still stands at Sugar Pine Point. The original Rubicon Point Lighthouse fell into ruins and wasn’t much of a tourist attraction until 2001, when the short-but-stout structure was rebuilt. Pay a visit here and admire the site’s spectacular lake view, then finish out the last 0.5 mile of your loop.
Distance: 0.5 mile round-trip
Duration: 30 minutes
Effort: Easy
Elevation change: 50 feet
Trailhead: Balancing Rock
Directions: From Tahoe City, drive 15.5 miles south on Hwy. 89 and turn left at the sign for D. L. Bliss State Park. Drive 0.5 mile to the entrance station ($10 day-use fee per vehicle), then continue 0.7 mile to a fork. Bear left and drive 0.25 mile to the Balancing Rock parking lot on the left.
The Balancing Rock is a big hunk of granite that has been a curiosity at Lake Tahoe for centuries. It’s a 130-ton rock that sits precariously balanced on a small rock pedestal, like a giant golf ball on an itty-bitty golf tee. Visitors to Lake Tahoe in the late 1800s took pleasure in having their photographs taken next to this geologic oddity, and today most people enjoy the same pastime. The trail’s interpretive brochure explains that eventually erosion will wear away the pedestal and cause the Balancing Rock to lose its balance. But don’t hold your breath, because it probably won’t happen in our lifetime. In addition to Balancing Rock, the trail shows off many of the native plants and trees of the Tahoe area.
If you’re in the Truckee area, pay a visit to West End Beach at Donner Lake (Donner Memorial State Park, Donner Pass Rd., www.parks.ca.gov, $4 adults, $3 children 17 and under), one of the few beaches near Tahoe that actually has a lifeguard. Or, if you prefer to have your swimming activities take place in a pool rather than a sandy cove, head over to Squaw Valley USA and ride the cable car to High Camp Bath and Tennis Club (1960 Squaw Valley Rd., Olympic Village, 530/583-6955 or 530/583-6985, www.squaw.com, $50-60 for cable-car and swimming pass), where a manufactured lagoon entices swimmers with its free-form shape and two islands landscaped with waterfalls and native boulders. There’s also a 25-foot-diameter hot tub and, of course, a bartender mixing expensive cocktails.
Over on the West Shore, a few beaches make an obvious appearance along Highway 89, including William Kent Beach and Kaspian Recreation Area, both right next to the highway a few miles south of Tahoe City. If you don’t want everybody driving by to see you in your bathing suit, head to Ed Z’berg Sugar Pine Point State Park ($10 parking fee) in Tahoma, where a lovely stretch of shoreline is found by the historic Ehrman Mansion. Adjacent to Meeks Bay Campground ($10 parking fee), 10 miles south of Tahoe City, is a white-sand beach with a boat launch, restrooms, and picnic facilities. Just south of Homewood is Chambers Landing, where a historic bar and restaurant are set within a few feet of a sandy, swimmable cove.
And finally, what is arguably the West Shore’s most beautiful public beach is found at Calawee Cove and Lester Beach at D. L. Bliss State Park (between Meeks Bay and Emerald Bay, $10 parking fee).
On the North Shore, beach lovers don’t have to go far to find a strip of swimsuit-worthy sand. One of the nicest is just 1.5 miles east of town at Lake Forest Beach Park (Lake Forest Rd. and Hwy. 28, Tahoe City, 530/581-4017, www.tahoecitypud.com). The beach has picnic tables, fire pits, restrooms, barbecue grills, and a playground for the kiddies. Good news for Fido—dogs are permitted at this beach. When you and/or your four-legged friend get tired of swimming, it’s great fun to laze around on the beach and watch the windsurfers and kiteboarders.
Tahoe State Recreation Area (on the eastern edge of Tahoe City next to the Boatworks Mall) also has a nice beach, if you are lucky enough to get a parking spot ($10 parking fee). And Commons Beach, just a few steps from Fanny Bridge and the Tahoe City Y, has a large grassy area, a playground for kids with a mini rock wall for junior rock climbers, barbecues, and a paved recreation trail. It’s not a great swimming area because it’s so rocky, but it’s a fun beach for children. Almost every Sunday in summer, outdoor concerts take place at the small amphitheater here.
In Tahoe Vista, the 600-foot-long sandy swimming beach at Moon Dunes Beach (across the highway from Rustic Cottages near Pino Grande) is a popular spot, with picnic tables and fire pits. There’s no public parking lot, so you are on your own to find street parking. A short distance to the west lies Tahoe Vista Recreation Area (N. Lake Blvd. and National Ave.), another good place to take a dip.
In Kings Beach, the last town heading east on Highway 28 before California ends and Nevada begins, swimmers and beachgoers flock to the Kings Beach State Recreation Area (7360 W. Lake Blvd., 530/546-7248, $10 parking fee), a great place to take the kids because of the shallow, calm water. The beach has boat and Jet Ski rentals, a barbecue area, and a kids’ playground. Also in Kings Beach is the North Tahoe Beach Center, directly across the street from the Safeway supermarket. The beach has grassy areas, a beach volleyball court, and picnic tables. Secline Beach, at the end of Secline Street in Kings Beach, is 50 yards off the highway and more secluded. The beach is rocky and blissfully free of development (no facilities here), but there isn’t a lot of shoreline.
For those who want to bring their dog to the beach, Carnelian Bay Beach and neighboring Patton Landing Beach (on both the east and west sides of Sierra Boat Company, near Gar Woods Grill and across the street from Magic Carpet Golf) are two of the few “dog-legal” stretches of sand. (You may see dogs on other North Shore beaches, but that doesn’t necessarily mean they are allowed.) A boardwalk marked with interpretive signs leads through restored wetlands to Carnelian Bay Beach. Its shoreline is rocky, but you can sun yourself on its smooth stones. Discerning eyes can search for semiprecious red and yellow carnelians. The water is shallow and inviting; retrievers will fetch darn near anything you throw into the water here.
Cyclists looking for an easy, pedal-spinning ride will want to explore the paved bike trails that travel the West and North Shores. A major hub for these trails is located at 64 Acres Park, also known as the Truckee River Access parking lot, 0.25 mile south of the Y off Highway 89. At this large parking lot, you’ll find signboards that map out the various trails leading from this hub.
If you don’t feel comfortable mountain biking around the North and West Shores on your own, guided trips are provided by the Tahoe Adventure Company (530/913-9212 or 866/830-6125, www.tahoeadventurecompany.com). All trips include a van shuttle to and from the trailheads, lunch, front-suspension bikes, and helmets. Rides are about 10-12 miles in length and are offered at various locations; the fee is $95-110 per rider.
One place for kid-friendly mountain biking is at North Tahoe Regional Park in Tahoe Vista. Follow National Avenue uphill to where the road ends at the park. The bike trail begins at the far end of the parking lot.
Bike rentals are available at several locations on Tahoe’s North and West Shores. The Back Country has a shop in Truckee (11400 Donner Pass Rd., 530/582-0909, www.thebackcountry.net) and also rents bikes in the parking lot of Tahoe City Sushi (690 N. Lake Blvd., Tahoe City). Rentals are also available at Cycle Paths (10200 Donner Pass Rd., Truckee, 530/582-1890, www.cyclepaths.com), The Gravity Shop (475 N. Lake Blvd., Tahoe City, 530/581-2558, www.tahoegravityshop.com, 9:30am-6pm Mon.-Sat.), and Olympic Bike Shop (620 N. Lake Blvd., Tahoe City, 530/581-2500, www.olympicbikeshop.com). Farther east, you can rent bikes at Tahoe Bike and Ski (8499 N. Lake Blvd., Kings Beach, 530/546-7437, www.tahoebikeski.com). Typical bike rental rates are $10-15 per hour, $30-45 per half day, and $50-75 per day.
This Truckee River Recreation Trail is the most scenic trail of them all. It crosses a bridge by the trailhead, then continues alongside the Truckee River for 5.5 miles to the entrance road to Squaw Valley USA. Many bicyclists follow the trail only as far as River Ranch Lodge at Alpine Meadows Road, 4.5 miles out, where they enjoy lunch or dinner on the riverside deck and then ride back. But you could pedal farther by following the trail for another mile to Squaw Valley Road, crossing picturesque Midway Bridge along the way, then riding up Squaw Valley Road to meet up with its 2-mile-long paved bike path.
Families enjoy the Truckee River Recreation Trail in summer.
Another option from the same trailhead parking lot is to ride south along the West Shore Bike Path, which parallels Highway 89 for 9 miles to Ed Z’berg Sugar Pine Point State Park. Despite its terrific lakeshore views, the trail has one major drawback: It crosses Highway 89 dozens of times and occasionally is merely a bike lane on its shoulder, not a separate trail. Riders must exercise caution during heavy summer traffic. A third option from 64 Acres Park is to follow the Tahoe City Lakeside Trail around the Y (head east) and then connect to the 2.5-mile Dollar Point Trail, which travels from Tahoe State Recreation Area to Dollar Point. This is a great way to access some of Tahoe City’s lovely shoreline without driving your car and fighting for parking. For more information on Tahoe City’s paved recreation trails, visit www.tcpud.org.
For a more challenging paved ride with an athletic hill climb, park near Kaspian Campground, 4.2 miles south of Tahoe City on Highway 89, and ride up Barker Pass/Blackwood Canyon Road. The route is smooth pavement all the way and gradually gains 1,400 feet in elevation over its 7-mile course to Barker Pass. Car traffic is generally very light. Streams, wildflowers, and aspen groves accompany you on the ascent, and when you reach the top, you have a 7-mile downhill cruise to look forward to.
The Martis Peak Fire Lookout Road, which takes off from Highway 267 just north of Brockway Summit, provides a similar solid hill workout, but on a much shorter ride—only 8 miles round-trip. Route finding is easy, because you simply stay on the paved fire lookout road and ignore the numerous dirt road junctions. You climb, climb, and climb some more, and after gaining 1,500 feet in a mere 4 miles, you’re at the fire lookout at elevation 8,750 feet. The view from here is one of the best on the North Shore, encompassing several distinct peaks—Lassen Peak, Castle Peak, and Round Top—and the Tahoe basin.
From Highway 28 at Kings Beach, drive northwest on Highway 267 for 3.7 miles. Just beyond Brockway Summit, turn right on Martis Peak Fire Lookout Road (Forest Service Rd. 18N02) and park in any pullout alongside the road.
Experienced road cyclists head for the Old Donner Summit Road, also known as Old Highway 40, for an out-and-back training ride of nearly 40 miles. The best place to start is at Donner Memorial State Park (12593 Donner Pass Rd. off I-80, Truckee, 530/582-7892, www.parks.ca.gov, 10am-5pm daily, $8 day-use fee), pedaling alongside the north shore of Donner Lake for a warm-up. Then it’s a strenuous climb up to Old Donner Pass (wave to the rock climbers as you spin by) and beyond to Sugar Bowl Ski Resort. The worst of the work is over now, and you’ll enjoy a mostly downhill cruise along Old Highway 40 through Norden and Soda Springs to Rainbow Lodge. Most riders turn around at Cisco and then head back for a mellower climb up the west side of Donner Summit and a fast, twisting descent back to Donner Lake.
Mountain bikers have an untold wealth of trails to choose from on the North and West Shores. Fat tires are allowed, even welcomed, on an abundance of trails, including large sections of the Tahoe Rim Trail. The biggest problem for bikers is deciding which trail to ride. In the Donner Summit area, one that shouldn’t be missed is the Hole in the Ground Trail, a 16.5-mile loop that begins and ends just off I-80. This incredibly popular trail was completed in 1998 to the cheers of mountain bikers everywhere. Today, more than 300 people ride it every summer weekend. The loop has a total 2,100-foot elevation gain, passes near two granite-bound swimming lakes (Sand Ridge and Lower Lola Montez), and doles out 10-plus miles of exciting single-track.
To get to the trailhead, take the Castle Peak/Boreal Ridge Road exit off I-80. Cross over to the north side of the interstate and follow the pavement to its end at a metal gate. One mile of riding on a rocky jeep road leads you to the official start of Hole in the Ground. Nine miles of single-track follow. The first stretch includes a heart-pumping climb up Andesite Ridge, with awe-inspiring views of Castle Peak and Squaw Valley. Next comes a long 2.5-mile descent on a knife-thin ridge; try to keep your eye on your front wheel and not the stunning Sierra scenery. After more ups and downs, plus two potential side trips to the lakes, the route joins the Lower Lola Montez Lake Trail and cruises downhill to the Soda Springs fire station before it loops back on pavement to the starting point.
Fat-tire riders seeking both a physical and technical challenge will enjoy the Stanford Rock Loop, a 14-mile ride with 2,200 feet of elevation gain that may require a good dose of bike-hiking, i.e., carrying your bike. The first 2.3 miles are a warm-up on paved roads as you head out to the Twin Peaks Trailhead; just follow Pineland Drive to Twin Peaks Drive to Ward Creek Boulevard. The next 3 miles are a gentle streamside ride on a smooth dirt road, which then narrows into single-track and begins to climb alongside Ward Creek. At mile 5.8, the trail moves away from Ward Creek and the serious ascent begins. The next 1.5 miles are on the miserable side, unless you possess thighs of steel. When at last you reach a trail junction, bear left for Stanford Rock. You have one more climb and a ridgeline ramble to get there. When you do, you’ll enjoy a well-earned vista of Lake Tahoe, the Desolation Wilderness, and Ward Creek Canyon. From the rock, you have 5 miles of mostly downhill cruising on wide trail to bring you back to Ward Creek Boulevard, which you then follow back to Highway 89.
The trailhead is at William Kent Campground on Highway 89, 3 miles south of Tahoe City and 0.2 mile north of Pineland Drive.
If you want to get the kids interested in mountain biking, Ed Z’berg Sugar Pine Point State Park is a great place to do it. A five-mile loop on smooth dirt roads will bestow confidence in novice riders and leave them yearning for more. The General Creek Loop begins by campsite 149 in General Creek Campground. By heading straight past the first bridge, you’ll ride the loop counterclockwise. The road/trail runs through a dense mixed conifer forest on the north side of General Creek and open meadows on the south side. One of the prettiest stretches is where the trail crosses over a marsh area and wooden bridge at mile 2.4; look for blooming corn lilies and wildflowers in spring. If after completing this short loop you want to keep on riding, it’s simple to connect to Lake Tahoe’s West Shore Bike Path (paved). Just follow the park road out to Highway 89 and pick up the trail heading north.
Last but not least, for those who just want to coast downhill, not crank uphill, Northstar California Resort (Hwy. 267 at Northstar Dr., 530/562-2268, www.northstarcalifornia.com) operates a few of its chairlifts in summer (daily July-Aug., Thurs.-Sun. only in early summer and fall) so that mountain bikers can be whisked to mid-mountain, then cruise downhill on two wheels. Remarkably, some even choose to ride uphill as well as down. The largest mountain-bike park in Northern California, with more than 100 miles of trails, Northstar is usually open for biking late May-early October. A skills-development area with log-and-ladder ties helps riders learn how to negotiate the technical stuff, and a mid-mountain “jump park” is designed for those who like to catch some air. One popular trail, Live Wire, is the resort’s only irrigated trail, which means no dust clouds, even at the end of a dry summer.
All-day lift tickets are $50 adults, $31 children 9-12; afternoons are discounted ($36 adults, $19 children after 2pm). Bike rentals, including a helmet and gloves, are also available ($131-141 per day, $109-124 per afternoon). If you are a beginner, try their “Rider 101 Mountain Bike Package” (starts at 1pm, $114 Mon.-Fri., $155 Sat.-Sun.), which includes access to the lower mountain trails via the Big Springs gondola, plus a rental bike. Northstar lodging packages are also available, which allow you to stay overnight and bike free.
In terms of rafting opportunities, the Truckee River offers something for everyone, running the gamut from the mild to the wild. The most popular stretch by far is the 4.5 miles from Tahoe City to River Ranch, which can be navigated by almost any kind of boat, from inner tubes to kayaks to canoes, in midsummer. Because the river flow is controlled by the sluice gates of the dam at Fanny Bridge in Tahoe City, the ride is more like floating than rafting, but that’s what makes it fun. There are sandy beaches and designated areas where you can pull up and have a picnic, and unlimited opportunities for jumping out of your boat for a swim. Portable toilets and picnic tables are available at points along the river.
This stretch of the Truckee is so tame that you don’t need a guide. You can go when you want and where you want, and your dog can join you (as long as he or she likes the water). If you have your own raft or floating device, you can put in at the free Public Raft Launching Facility (64 Acres Park, 0.2 mile south of the Tahoe City Y), which is located at the parking access for the Truckee River Recreation Trail in Tahoe City. A concrete boat-launch pad is located right next to the bicycle bridge over the Truckee River. At the end of your float, you’ll need to have a shuttle car waiting for you, or someone in your party will have to walk back four miles along the paved Truckee River Recreation Trail to get the car.
A better choice is to plan carefully so that you arrive at River Ranch in perfect synchronization with the Tahoe Area Regional Transit bus (TART, 530/550-1212 or 800/736-6365, www.laketahoetransit.com), which makes the run from River Ranch to Tahoe City several times a day. One person in your party can ride the bus back to retrieve your car, then return to pick up the rest of the party and the raft.
Rafting is only permitted when the river flow is moderate enough to be safe, which is usually in the months of July and August. When the river is too high or fast, signs are posted to alert people to stay out of the water. And even when the river is safe to float, this adventure is not suitable for nonswimmers or very young children, as the river is deep in places and a few mini-rapids could tip your raft.
Several companies rent rafts, inner tubes, and other suitable floating devices. Drive up to the Y in Tahoe City, and you’ll find them set up under big tents at the highway junction. Truckee River Rafting/Mountain Air Sports (55 W. Lake Blvd., 530/583-7238 or 888/584-7238) is the biggest of the lot and has the most obvious location, right at the Y. Another long-established company is the Truckee River Raft Company (185 Hwy. 89/River Rd., Tahoe City, 530/583-0123, www.truckeeriverraft.com), which is located about 150 yards farther north from the Y.
Rates at both companies are $35 per adult, $30 per child ages 6-12, and free for children under 6. Reservations usually aren’t needed unless it’s a holiday weekend; however, you can save a few bucks by reserving in advance online or by phone. Rafts are rented 8:30am-3:30pm daily in summer; arrive early or late to avoid the biggest crowds. No matter which company you rent from, your float will end at River Ranch and a bus will pick you up and take you back to Tahoe City. Most people take two or three hours to float the 4.5 miles, but you could do it faster if you don’t make any stops.
For something more adventurous, the lower Truckee River (below River Ranch) offers Class II and III rapids almost all summer long. Several tour companies offer guided white-water trips on the lower Truckee. Tahoe Whitewater Tours (303 Alpine Meadows Rd., 530/581-2441 or 800/442-7238, www.gowhitewater.com, $68 adults, $58 children 7-12 for half-day trips) leads half-day and full-day trips mid-May-mid-September. Guided white-water rafting trips are also available from Tributary Whitewater Tours (800/672-3846, www.whitewatertours.com) in Grass Valley.
If you brought your own kayak, you can put in at just about any public beach you can drive to. A popular area for beginner to intermediate kayakers to paddle is at Rubicon Point (D. L. Bliss State Park, Hwy. 89, 530/525-7277, www.parks.ca.gov, sunrise-sunset, $10 parking), one of the deepest parts of the lake at 1,200 feet. With a put-in at D. L. Bliss, you can paddle south into Emerald Bay and get a close-up look at Fannette Island. Other popular put-in spots include Meeks Bay, Hurricane Bay, or Sunnyside.
Kayakers with bigger ambitions should check out the Lake Tahoe Water Trail map (503/385-8023, www.adventuremaps.net, $12), which shows available boat launches, campsites, lodging, dining, and more for all 72 miles of lake shoreline. Visit the website of the Lake Tahoe Water Trail Committee (www.laketahoewatertrail.org) for information on trip planning, Tahoe paddling events, and the local kayaking community.
As at other points along Lake Tahoe’s massive shoreline, kayak tours and rentals are available in and around the North Shore in the summer months. Kayak Tahoe (at Patton Landing Beach in Carnelian Bay, 530/544-2011 or 530/546-7008, www.kayaktahoe.com) rents kayaks in the Carnelian Bay area, where the lakeshore is lined with fascinating boulder fields. No experience is necessary; beginners are outfitted with a sit-on-top kayak, and with only a few minutes of instruction can set out on their own. Kayaks can be rented for one or two hours ($20-50) or all day ($65-85). Stand-up paddleboards are $20-30 for a half-day; $65 for all day.
Tahoe City Kayak (521 N. Lake Blvd., Tahoe City, 530/581-4336, www.tahoecitykayak.com) also offers tours, rentals, sales, and instruction. Tours are offered at eight different locations around the lake and are rated as easy, moderate, or difficult. Typical tour rates are $75-95 per person, often including a lunch. Stand-up paddleboards can be rented for $75 per day.
To the east at Kings Beach, Tahoe Paddle & Oar (North Tahoe Beach Center, 8299 N. Lake Blvd., Kings Beach, 530/581-3029, www.tahoepaddle.com, 9am-5pm daily, tours $95-125 per person, rentals $20-30 per hour or $80-120 per day) rents kayaks and canoes and provides guided kayak tours along the boulder-lined shores of Crystal Bay and Sand Harbor. In Crystal Bay, paddlers can visit the natural hot springs off Brockway Point. Tahoe Paddle & Oar also rents stand-up paddleboards of all kinds ($20 per hour, $80 all day), suitable for both paddling flat water and catching some waves. If you haven’t tried it yet, stand-up paddleboarding is a sport in which the participant stands up on a 12-foot-long longboard and propels him- or herself with a modified canoe paddle. The sport entered the mainstream surfing culture in the early 1960s, when the local surfers of Waikiki would stand on their longboards and paddle out with outrigger paddles to take pictures of the tourists learning to surf. Now it’s the latest craze among water lovers as a new method of surfing, even in flat conditions.
Tahoe Adventure Company (530/913-9212 or 866/830-6125, www.tahoeadventurecompany.com) rents paddleboards right on the beach in Tahoe Vista Recreation Area. For first-timers, instruction is included.
To simply rent a kayak, not sign up for a tour, you may also try North Tahoe Water Sports (by the pier at Kings Beach State Recreation Area, 530/546-9253, www.northtahoewatersportsinc.com) or Tahoe Eco-Sports (8612 N. Lake Blvd., Tahoe Vista, 530/546-2780, www.tahoeecosports.com). In Truckee, go to The Sports Exchange (10095 W. River St., Truckee, 530/582-4510, www.truckeesportsexchange.com).
Those interested in less natural but more thrill-oriented water sports should head for North Tahoe Water Sports (by the pier at Kings Beach State Recreation Area, 530/546-9253, www.northtahoewatersportsinc.com), where you can soar up to 1,400 feet above Lake Tahoe on a boat-driven parasail flight, rent aqua-cycles or Jet Skis, or just suffice with old-fashioned sailing or kayaking. The same company runs Lake Tahoe Parasailing (Tahoe City Marina, 700 N. Lake Blvd., 530/583-7245, www.parasailtahoe.com). The parasailing contraption can hold two or three people at once, so you don’t have to “fly” behind the boat alone, and with their stay-dry method, you don’t have to worry about getting dunked in the icy waters of Tahoe. You are gently reeled out and back in to the deck of the parasail boat without ever getting your feet wet. Typical parasailing rates are $60-80 per person. The rate goes up the higher you choose to “fly,” and the longer your flight is. A typical flight lasts about 8-15 minutes. North Shore Parasail (8290 N. Lake Blvd., Kings Beach, 530/546-7698 or 530/308-0985, www.parasailcatalina.com) offers a similar array of parasailing adventures and Jet Ski and kayak rentals; find them behind Steamer’s Restaurant.
Kings Beach is a big beach party all summer long.
Personal watercraft can usually be rented for $65 per half hour or $100 per hour. If you want to parasail or rent personal watercraft, shop around. If business is slow on any given day, you can often get a deal by making a few phone calls.
More serious powerboats, and also a 22-foot Catalina sailboat, can be rented at the Tahoe City Marina (700 N. Lake Blvd., Tahoe City, 530/583-1039, www.tahoecitymarina.com, $140-190 per hour). Tahoe Water Adventures (Lakehouse Mall Pier, 120 Grove St., Tahoe City, 530/583-9253, www.surftahoe.com) rents power boats, Jet Skis, and kayaks and paddleboards. On the West Shore, Action Watersports (Meeks Bay Marina, 530/525-5588, www.action-watersports.com) offers a full array of boat and water-toy rentals.
If you brought your own boat or personal watercraft to Lake Tahoe and just need to find a boat ramp where you can put it in the water, you can do so on the West Shore at Homewood Marina (530/525-5966), Obexer’s Marina (530/525-7962), or Sunnyside Marina (530/583-7201). On the North Shore, you can launch your craft at Kings Beach Recreation Area (530/546-7248), Lake Forest Boat Ramp (530/581-4017), North Tahoe Marina (530/546-8248), Sierra Boat Company (530/546-2552), or Tahoe City Marina (530/583-1039).
And when it comes to water sports, don’t forget that Lake Tahoe is not the only game in town. Over at Donner Lake, the marina at Donner Lake Village Resort (15695 Donner Pass Rd., Truckee, 530/587-6081 or 800/979-0402, www.donnerlakevillage.com) rents ski boats, fishing boats, personal watercraft, and canoes and kayaks. You can also launch your own boat here.
If you’ve always wanted to learn how to water-ski or wakeboard, Lake Tahoe is a great place to do it. The High Sierra Water Ski School (530/525-1214 or 530/583-7417, www.highsierrawaterskiing.com) has been teaching the sport for 25 years, and they also rent Jet Skis, Waverunners, small sailboats, powerboats, and the like. The school has two locations: Sunnyside Marina (1850 W. Lake Blvd., 2 miles south of Tahoe City) and Homewood Marina (5190 W. Lake Blvd., 7 miles south of Tahoe City). On the North Shore, Goldcrest Water Ski School (8194 N. Lake Blvd., Kings Beach, 530/546-7412) teaches waterskiing in July and August only.
Lake Tahoe is open for fishing year-round, except for within 300 feet of its tributaries October 1-June 30. The best fishing for mackinaw trout is in spring and early summer, but they can be fished year-round. Brown and rainbow trout are also commonly caught in the lake. An excellent kokanee salmon fishery, with most action occurring around midsummer, is also on offer.
The Truckee River and its environs form a world-famous fly-fishing area, but it is not for the inexperienced. The river can be legally fished from the last Saturday in April to November 15, except for the section from the Tahoe City dam to 1,000 feet downstream, which is closed year-round. Streams in the area can be fished July 1-November 15, whereas lakes in the Truckee-Donner area, including Donner Lake, Boca Reservoir, Stampede Reservoir, and Prosser Creek Reservoir, can be fished year-round. Martis Creek Reservoir can also be fished year-round, but special rules apply: The lake is catch-and-release only, using artificial lures with single barbless hooks.
For expert local fly-fishing advice, contact one of these resources: California School of Flyfishing (Truckee, 530/470-0284, www.flyline.com), Randy Johnson’s Tackle and Guide Service (Tahoma, 530/525-6575), Mountain Hardware and Sports (11320 Donner Pass Rd., Truckee, 530/587-4844), Thy Rod and Staff Fly Fishing (12611 Hillside Dr., Truckee, 530/587-7333), or Truckee River Outfitters (10200 Donner Pass Rd., Truckee, 775/853-7368).
Those who just want to stand on the shore of a scenic lake and drop in a line and some Power Bait or salmon eggs can do so at Donner Lake, near the boat ramp or at the west end of the beach; Boca Reservoir, near the rocky sections of the stream inlet; and Prosser Creek Reservoir and Stampede Reservoir. The usual catch in these lakes is brown or rainbow trout and occasionally kokanee salmon. Donner Lake has big mackinaw and kokanee salmon, but you have to go out in a boat and go deep to find them. Boat rentals are available at each of these lakes for those who prefer trolling.
Stream anglers using spinners or Power Bait can set out for Coldstream Creek, a half-mile hike from Donner Memorial State Park; the section of the Little Truckee River between Boca and Stampede Reservoirs; or the main Truckee River between Tahoe City and Truckee along Highway 89.
If you need to buy a fishing license or bait or tackle supplies, head to Swigard’s True Value Hardware (200 N. Lake Blvd., Tahoe City, 530/583-3738).
Because of the lake’s massive size and depth, the best fishing is always done by boat and in the company of an experienced guide who knows the lake. Most guide services have a 90 percent or better catch rate; provide bait, tackle, and beverages; plus clean and bag your fish for you. Dozens of North Lake Tahoe guide services can take you out on the lake and greatly increase your chances of catching fish. Contact one of the following guides on the North or West Shores to learn more about their services:
Kingfish Guide Service (5110 W. Lake Blvd., Homewood, 530/277-4851)
Mickey’s Big Mack Charters (at Sierra Boat Company, Carnelian Bay, 530/546-4444 or 800/877-1462, www.mickeysbigmack.com)
Chuck’s Bait, Tackle, and Guide (8106 N. Lake Blvd, Kings Beach, 530/546-8425)
Additionally, two guiding services operate out of Tahoe City Marina (700 N. Lake Blvd.) in the center of town: Reel Deal Sport Fishing (530/318-6272) and Captain Chris’ Fishing Charter (530/583-4857).
Golfers have almost as many options as skiers do in the North Tahoe region, with a total of eight courses located within a 30-mile radius. For those who just want to hit a few balls without a lot of fanfare, the area has three nine-hole courses with green fees of $50 or less—the Old Brockway, Ponderosa, and Tahoe City Golf Courses.
Even nongolfers will enjoy a trip to the historic Old Brockway Golf Course (7900 N. Lake Blvd., Kings Beach, 530/546-9909, www.oldbrockway.com), a par 36 course with an outstanding course restaurant, the Blue Onion. Old Brockway has been rated as one of the top 10 nine-hole golf courses in Northern California by Golf Today magazine. Its scenic, Jeffrey pine-studded layout covers more than 3,200 yards with tight fairways, postage-stamp greens, and views of Lake Tahoe. Built in 1924 by Harry Comstock, owner of the Brockway Hotel, the course retains much of its historic character and charm. In 1934, Old Brockway was home to the first “unofficial” Bing Crosby Golf Tournament, when Bing would invite his friends to Lake Tahoe to play golf while he was entertaining at the nearby Cal-Neva Resort. The course’s Blue Onion restaurant serves three meals a day during the golfing season, which is usually April-early November. Green fees are $40-50 for nine holes.
The nine-hole Ponderosa Golf Course (10040 Reynold Way, Truckee, 530/587-3501, www.ponderosagolfcoursetruckee.com), designed by Robert Balbach, is a par 35 regulation course set amid the ponderosa pines. The layout is fairly open and typical of a municipal course, but the greens are fast and sloping. Afternoon winds can make the greens even tougher. Green fees are $30-35 for nine holes, and no reservations are required.
The Tahoe City Golf Course (251 N. Lake Blvd., Tahoe City, 530/583-1516, www.playtcgc.com) is a par 33 course with views of Lake Tahoe and a long history on the North Shore. The course was built in 1917 by a female golf pro, May “Queenie” Dunn Hupfel, and was intended to be used by guests at the nearby Tahoe Tavern. In the 1950s, a host of celebrities played this course, including Bing Crosby, Bob Hope, Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, Sammy Davis Jr., and Andy Williams. Tahoe City Golf Course has fast and true greens that “break toward the lake,” and with green fees of $40-50 for nine holes, a round of golf here won’t break the bank. The course’s bar and café serves a casual breakfast and lunch.
For golfing with more glitz, the North Shore’s big resorts have world-class courses designed for the serious golfer. The tree-lined course at Northstar California (168 Basque Dr. off Northstar Dr., Truckee, 530/562-3290, www.northstarcalifornia.com) is a par 72, 18-hole beauty designed by Robert Muir Graves. The 6,897-yard course has water on 14 holes and gorgeous mountain and meadow views. It’s a course for accurate hitters, especially on the back nine. Green fees are $80 (cart included) in summer, but substantially less mid-May-mid-June and mid-September-mid-October. The resort also boasts the earliest twilight rate hours around the lake; reduced fees start at 2pm ($60). If you’d like to improve your game but don’t want to pay for private instruction, free lessons are offered on Wednesday afternoons June-September; call for reservations.
Designed by the legendary Jack Nicklaus, the scenic course at Old Greenwood (12915 Fairway Dr., Truckee, 530/550-7010 or 800/754-3070, www.oldgreenwood.com) winds through 600 acres of stately Jeffrey pines and sagebrush, and has received an Audubon International certification for its environmental friendliness. The par 72, 7,518-yard course comes with a big price tag—18 holes of golf will cost you $140-190, cart included. Twilight rates drop to $75-100. Also in Truckee, the Tahoe Donner Golf Course (12850 Northwoods Blvd., Truckee, 530/587-9443, www.tahoedonner.com) offers similar beautiful scenery. Designed by Roy Williams and Bill Bell Jr., this semiprivate course has green fees of $80-125, cart included.
Over at Squaw Valley, the Resort at Squaw Creek (400 Squaw Creek Rd., Olympic Valley, 530/583-6300 or 800/327-3353, www.squawcreek.com) boasts an exceptionally challenging 18-hole championship course designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr. Rated as “one of the top ten courses you can play” by Golf Magazine, the par 72 links meander for 6,815 yards along the valley floor amid a wealth of wetlands. If you’re not the world’s most accurate hitter, bring a bag full of extra balls. The course has received Audubon International status as a certified cooperative wildlife sanctuary. Resort guests pay $79-99 to play (cart included); nonguests pay slightly more.
Last but certainly not least is the Coyote Moon Championship Golf Course (10685 Northwoods Blvd., Truckee, 530/587-0886, www.coyotemoongolf.com), which sits on 250 acres of undeveloped pine- and boulder-covered hills. The resort brags of having not a single house or structure to spoil its mountain and forest views, an exceptional rarity around Lake Tahoe. Golf great Brad Bell was the creative force behind the 7,117-yard, par 72 course, which meanders around and across Trout Creek. Green fees are $125-160 with cart ($100 twilight). The resort’s restaurant serves three meals a day.
A handful of stables on the North Shore will let you borrow (okay, rent) Trigger or Seabiscuit for a few hours to ride across the open plains (okay, mountains and valleys). Just outside of Truckee, Tahoe Donner Equestrian (15275 Alder Creek Rd., Truckee, 530/587-9470, www.tahoedonner.com) provides a wide array of guided trail rides and equestrian activities, plus Friday-night barbecue rides and wagon rides. Guided trail rides are $45 per hour per person; pony rides are $25 per half hour. The barbecue ride is $65 for adults and $45 for children and includes dinner. For the more serious rider, the equestrian center has five-day horsemanship camps in Western and English riding for children and adults.
Alpine Meadows Stables (2600 Alpine Meadows Rd., Alpine Meadows, 530/583-3905, 9am-6pm daily), located 0.5 mile up Alpine Meadows Road, offers pony rides, guided trail rides, and multiday pack charters. Guided two-hour trail rides are $70 per person; one-hour rides are $35 per person. Private rides are available for $60 per hour.
Northstar Stables (910 Northstar Dr., Truckee, 530/562-2480, www.northstarattahoe.com) offers an array of trail rides ranging from one to three hours ($75-150) as well as breakfast and dinner rides ($90-100). Children must be 10 years or older to ride, but younger children can take part in “pony camp” ($45 per child, 1-4pm Tues.-Sat. in summer only).
The clean granite cracks and faces of Donner Summit (off Old Highway 40 west of Truckee) are by far the most popular climbing spots on the North Shore. With about 400 different possible routes on a multitude of cliffs, the Summit has amazing variety, from easy scrambles to expert climbs. Donner doles out everything from bouldering to multipitch crack climbing. Plus, access is a snap; you can drive right up the old Donner Pass Road and find climbers scaling the rocks all around you, just a few feet from the pavement.
Coming in a close second for popularity is the Big Chief area (between Squaw Valley and Truckee) high above the river canyon. The rock here is volcanic, not granite, so it provides steep sport climbing over more than 100 bolted routes, none suitable for beginners. Instead, novice climbers head to Twin Crags (just north of Tahoe City on Hwy. 89). Beginners use topropes to sharpen their skills and gain some confidence on the rock. The south-facing crags are usually snow-free early in the year.
Climbers who just want to solve a few boulder problems head to Grouse Slabs at Donner Summit, Split Rock at the west end of Donner Memorial State Park (12593 Donner Pass Rd. off I-80, Truckee, 530/582-7892, www.parks.ca.gov, 10am-5pm daily, $8 day-use fee), with more than 25 possible routes, or the house-size boulders near Balancing Rock at D. L. Bliss State Park (Hwy. 89, 530/525-7277, www.parks.ca.gov, sunrise-sunset, $10 parking). Another good bouldering site is at the end of Old County Road, just east of Tahoe City off Highway 28.
If a summer thunderstorm hits and there’s no place outdoors where you can climb, you can always head to the 30-foot-high indoor climbing wall inside the cable-car building at Squaw Valley USA (530/386-1375 or 530/583-7673, www.squawadventure.com). A day of climbing is $15, including a harness, or $19 with a harness and climbing shoes.
For climbing instruction and/or guide service, contact Alpine Skills International (11400 Donner Pass Rd., Truckee, 530/582-9170, www.alpineskills.com). Their office is located upstairs at The Back Country outdoor store, but they conduct climbing classes at Donner Pass. Their one-day beginner’s lesson costs $140 (June-Sept.). Two-day beginner classes and more advanced courses are also offered, as well as a climbing clinic for women only. Or contact the Tahoe Adventure Company (530/913-9212 or 866/830-6125, www.tahoeadventurecompany.com), which offers a five-hour beginner’s lesson ($130). Tahoe Adventure’s North Shore courses are taught at Donner Summit.
If you are heading out on your own and forgot your chalk bag at home, several stores sell rock-climbing equipment: Alpenglow Sports (415 N. Lake Blvd., Tahoe City, 530/583-6917), The Back Country (11400 Donner Pass Rd., Truckee, 530/581-5861), and The Sports Exchange (10095 W. River St., Truckee, 530/582-4510).
Just ask Einstein: Gravity is its own thrill ride. If you’re in the mood to experience the thrill of defying gravity by zip-lining and climbing like a monkey in a canopy of conifers, head to the Tahoe Treetop Adventure Park (725 Granlibakken Rd., Tahoe City, 530/581-7563, www.tahoetreetop.com, 9am-7:30pm daily in summer, hours vary in winter, $50 teens and adults, $40 children ages 5-12, reservations recommended). This place is much more than a typical zipline ride. It’s an “aerial adventure” in which participants navigate between 65 tree platforms using a variety of suspension bridges, catwalks, and short ziplines. Think of it as hiking, zipping, and swinging from treehouse to treehouse—including some that are 50 feet off the ground. Acrophobics will probably not suffer quietly through this activity, but it’s completely safe. The park has a variety of courses for adults and kids, and no experience is necessary. Guests pay a flat fee for a 2.5-hour session; the first half-hour is spent getting outfitted in a helmet and harness and learning the ropes, so to speak. Young kids head for the “flying squirrel” courses, which are offered in three graduated levels, while older kids and adults head for the “monkey” courses, which are offered in five graduated levels. Athletic first-timers often manage to complete all five levels of the monkey courses in one 2.5-hour session. The next day, they have extremely sore triceps, but they feel like they’ve accomplished something.
North Lake Tahoe is home to the largest concentration of alpine ski resorts in North America, including three giant, full-service megaresorts—Northstar California, Squaw Valley, and Alpine Meadows (the latter two are now under the same ownership, so a lift ticket for one lets you ski at both)—and five smaller, more manageable ones—Homewood, Boreal, Sugar Bowl, Tahoe Donner, and Soda Springs. Add it all up, and you have a whole lot of snow-covered slopes within very few miles. Whether you choose to ski or ride, there is an abundance of choices here, from beginner-level bunny hills to near-vertical runs that give envelope pushers a place to test themselves.
Snowbomb (www.snowbomb.com) offers vouchers for discounted tickets for most of the major resorts, plus discounts at local lodgings, ski shops, and restaurants. If you have a Costco (www.costco.com) near your hometown, you can usually buy discounted lift tickets there for certain resorts. SaveMart and Lucky stores in California also sometimes carry discounted lift tickets.
If you need to rent ski or snowboarding equipment and you don’t want to do so at the resorts (it’s usually more expensive there), several shops in Tahoe City, Kings Beach, and Truckee can accommodate you. Tahoe Dave’s Skis and Boards (800/398-8915 or 530/583-6415, www.tahoedaves.com) has a whopping five locations in the Tahoe City and Truckee area. Typical rental rates are about $20 per day for a basic alpine ski package (skis, boots, poles) and $29 per day for a snowboarding package (board and boots). If you want high-performance equipment, expect to pay more.
If you are looking to rent and/or buy, Porter’s Sports (www.porterstahoe.com) is the place, with an online store and three North Shore locations open 9am-6pm daily: Tahoe City (501 N. Lake Blvd., 530/583-2314), Truckee (11391 Deerfield Dr., 530/562-4079), and its Tahoe City outlet store (100 N. Lake Blvd., 640/583-0292). A toll-free number connects you to all three locations: 866/967-6783.
The undisputed king of the North and West Shore resorts is Squaw Valley USA (1960 Squaw Valley Rd., Olympic Valley, 530/583-6955 or 530/452-4000, www.squaw.com, 9am-9pm daily). Located 7 miles north of Tahoe City and 12 miles south of Truckee off Highway 89, Squaw’s claim to fame is that it was the site of the 1960 Winter Olympics. Today it is one of the largest ski resorts in North America—and was made even larger by joining forces with Alpine Meadows at the end of 2011—and it’s also one of the most expensive places to ski around Lake Tahoe.
Squaw’s summit elevation is 9,050 feet at Granite Chief, and it features more than 170 possible runs spread out over 3,600 acres of terrain. Six mountain peaks are accessed by 34 lifts, including an aerial cable car and North America’s only high-speed Funitel. Riders have a wide choice of places to play, with three terrain parks, two standard half-pipes, and two superpipes. Even with all this, Squaw is not a place for skiers and riders who don’t like crowds; on winter weekends, it is always the busiest resort on the North Shore. It helps if you know where to go. Beginners should head to the lifts at High Camp, with its large, open bowl and great views of Lake Tahoe. Lower on the mountain, the Papoose Learning Area is also a good place for novices to get a feel for the mountain. On the other end of the skills spectrum, the slopes of KT-22, Granite Chief, and Broken Arrow offer only expert terrain. Intermediates will do well in the Snow King, Shirley Lake, and Emigrant Peak areas, although these tend to be a bit crowded.
The reason for Squaw’s success is not just the size and variety of its terrain (although that certainly helps), nor is it the fact that there is almost always abundant snow (an average 450 inches fall here per year, plus the resort has an advanced snowmaking system). It’s the fact that the resort is an entire industry in and of itself, providing plenty of activities that have nothing to do with skiing. Squaw’s High Camp offers mountaintop ice-skating and roller skating, snow tubing, and a summer swimming lagoon and spa. On the lower mountain, The Village at Squaw Valley includes dozens of shops and restaurants, plus a host of winter sports and other activities: snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, sleigh rides, dogsled tours, an indoor climbing wall, and so on. Its SnoVenture Activity Zone is perfect for nonskiing families; SnoVenture has a kid-friendly day lodge, expanded snow-tubing course, and mini-snowmobiles for kids 6-12. Winter visitors who come to Squaw for a week’s vacation could easily fill their time without ever leaving the valley.
Lift tickets at the resort’s ticket windows are about $15 higher than if you pre-purchase them online, so plan in advance and save a few bucks. Window tickets are $119 for adults 23-64, $98 for seniors 65-75 and young adults 13-22, $68 for kids 5-12 and seniors 76-plus, free for kids 4 and under. Half-day tickets (after 12:30pm) are $57-101, depending on the day of the week and whether or not it’s a holiday. But the high price comes with a lot of value: Now that Squaw and Alpine Meadows have joined as one, a ticket at one resort gets you access to both. Technically, that means that Squaw ticket holders have access to 6,000 acres of ski terrain, 44 lifts, and 270 trails. During ski season, shuttles run between the two resorts every 30 minutes (it’s about a 10-minute ride from one resort to the other).
Night skiing (3pm-7pm) is a relative bargain at $49 for all ages, but it’s available only on Saturdays and during the week between Christmas and New Year’s. Skiers and riders have access to one trail: the brightly lit, 3.2-mile Mountain Run (an intermediate-level run), from High Camp to the village floor. The run is lit up by a 1000-watt, color-corrected floodlight system, designed to make easier vision on the snow. Skiers access the Mountain Run via the cable car to High Camp, where a bartender serves drinks right on the spot where you disembark. (Drinking probably won’t help your skiing ability.)
Just a few miles down the road from Squaw is its mellower neighbor, Alpine Meadows Ski Resort (2600 Alpine Meadows Rd., Tahoe City, 530/583-4232 or 530/581-8374, www.skialpine.com, 9am-4pm daily). Alpine Meadows and Squaw Valley are not just neighbors; they are also business partners with the same ownership. This can only result in huge profits for both resorts. Now skiers and riders can buy one ticket and ski at both mountains in one day; shuttles run between the two resorts every 30 minutes.
Alpine Meadows has a total of 14 lifts, including one high-speed six-passenger chair and two high-speed express quads (you can get to the summit in six minutes). Except for the busiest holiday weekends, lift lines are generally not an issue. All the expected services are offered at the resort, including ski and snowboard instruction for adults and children, ski and snowboard rental and repair, guided out-of-bounds tours for skiers craving powder stashes and slopes less traveled, special clinics for those inclined toward moguls, a telemark ski camp, and plenty of on-mountain food service. Don’t miss the chance to eat at least one hamburger on the large sundeck at the day lodge. Riders and tricksters will enjoy the variety in the resort’s three terrain parks, including “The Shreadows,” which features jumps, spins, flat rails, down rails, half-pipes, and tabletops; there is even a separate terrain park just for kids. Expert skiers like the amount of backcountry terrain that is accessible via the lifts. Beginners and intermediates can sharpen their skills on miles of scenic, groomed terrain. With all this, it’s no wonder Alpine Meadows was rated one of America’s top 25 winter resorts by Skiing Magazine.
Located 6 miles north of Tahoe City and 13 miles south of Truckee off Highway 89, Alpine Meadows features 2,400 patrolled acres with more than 100 possible runs. Its summit elevation is 8,637 feet (base is 6,835). There is no shortage of snow here; the resort receives an average of 365 inches annually. Alpine Meadows’ snowmaking capacity also covers a large network of runs.
Ticket prices are $119 for adults 23-64, $98 for seniors 65-75 and young adults 13-22, $68 for kids 5-12 and seniors 76-plus, free for kids 4 and under. Half-day tickets (after 12:30pm) are $57-101, depending on the day of the week and whether or not it’s a holiday. Lift tickets at the resort’s ticket windows are about $15 higher than if you pre-purchase them online, so plan in advance and save a few bucks.
On the West Shore, just five miles south of Tahoe City, is the locals’ favorite, Homewood Mountain Resort (5145 W. Lake Blvd., Homewood, 530/525-2992, www.skihomewood.com, 9am-4pm daily). Because of its proximity to Lake Tahoe, Homewood is known for its unobstructed lake views from almost every run, and for its wind-protected location. Unlike at other Tahoe resorts, Homewood skiers and riders are never subject to “wind hold,” when the resort closes down the lifts due to high winds. Homewood hasn’t had such a closure in more than a decade. On the down side, during low-snow years Homewood struggles to get enough snow coverage. The resort doesn’t have the snowmaking capacity of some of the larger resorts, and its elevation is relatively low.
Very little of the resort is visible from the highway (only one ski run), so first-timers are always surprised at how large Homewood is. The resort has 1,260 acres of diverse terrain, with 60 runs served by eight lifts, including a high-speed chairlift that whisks riders to the resort’s north side in just four minutes. The longest run is two miles, with a 1,650-foot drop. In good years, Homewood sees an average snowfall of 482 inches even though its summit elevation is only 7,880 feet. If you are training for the X Games, two terrain parks are available.
Over the next 5-10 years, expect big changes at Homewood. A planned village complex with lodging and restaurants is in the works, with the intention to change Homewood from a “commuter’s” ski resort to one where people stay and ski for a few days, in the style of Squaw, Alpine Meadows, and Northstar.
Weekend (Fri.-Sun.) and holiday ticket prices are $88 adults ($78 half day), $68 teens 13-18 and seniors 62-69, $25 seniors 70-plus, and $25 for children ages 5-12 (children age 4 and under ski free). Weekdays are less expensive; check Homewood’s website for special deals on weekdays.
Midway between Kings Beach and Truckee off Highway 267, Northstar California Resort (Hwy. 267 and Northstar Dr., Truckee, 530/562-1010, www.northstarcalifornia.com, 8:30am-4pm daily) is an impressive village complex with luxurious condominiums and hotel-style rooms, an outdoor ice rink, and a variety of upscale restaurants and shops. Sound familiar? Right. It’s a lot like Squaw Valley now, only bigger and better, and with an emphasis on the family, not the twentysomething single skier. Even very wealthy families will feel right at home at Northstar, thanks to the $300 million Ritz-Carlton, complete with its own gondola connecting it to the Village. Completed in 2010, this was Lake Tahoe’s first five-star hotel.
For skiers and riders of all abilities, fairly easy runs still travel all the way from the top of the mountain to the bottom, so even beginners can ride the lifts all the way to the top. But more advanced skiers head straight for the passel of black-diamond runs on the northwestern side of Mount Pluto and a high-speed express quad lift on Lookout Mountain.
Northstar has 20 lifts and two gondolas serving 3,170 skiable acres. Average annual snowfall is 350 inches. Of the mountain’s 97 possible runs, the longest is the Logger’s Loop, at 1.4 miles and with a vertical drop of 2,280 feet. A full 60 percent of the trails here are designed for intermediates. Seven terrain parks, including one superpipe and one half-pipe, keep the jibbers busy. Transworld Snowboarding magazine has ranked Northstar as the third best overall snowboarding resort, and third best for parks and pipes.
And there is plenty at Northstar for nonskiers and nonriders to do, too: geocaching on snowshoes, a tubing hill, ice-skating, a bungee trampoline for kids and adults, and, of course, shopping and dining.
Lift tickets are $102 adults 19-64, $93 seniors 65 and up and teens 13-18, and $61 children 5-12. Half-day tickets aren’t much of a bargain at about $10 less than full-day tickets for all age groups. A season pass ($429-769) allows skiers access to Heavenly, Northstar, and Kirkwood resorts.
Farther to the west, Boreal Mountain Resort (19455 Boreal Ridge Rd., Soda Springs, 530/426-3666, www.borealski.com or www.rideboreal.com, 9am-4pm daily, 3:30pm-9pm for night skiing) is a well-known snowboarder’s paradise. Boreal is usually the first ski resort near Lake Tahoe to open each year, and often starts making snow well before Thanksgiving.
Boreal’s size is small (380 acres) and its terrain is covered by only 41 trails spanning 500 feet in elevation (7,700 feet at the summit and 7,200 feet at the base), but the resort makes the most of it by offering multiple terrain parks. In fact, Boreal lays claim to having the first and only all-mountain terrain park in Northern California. Every run at Boreal has something dedicated just to snowboarders. For young riders, a kids’ terrain park has smaller curves and rollers designed for the little shredders. Park and pipe lessons ($35) for all ability levels are offered all weekends and holidays.
Boreal is located at the Castle Peak exit off I-80, three miles west of Donner Lake. Because of its location far to the west of Tahoe’s lakeshore, it’s the place where thousands of Sacramento and San Francisco Bay Area kids have learned to ski and/or ride. The resort brags that more than 400,000 people have taken their first run on skis or boards here. For many urban and suburban families, Boreal is an easy day trip from home, and the resort capitalizes on its location by catering to young beginners with its innovative learning center. The Nugget Chair Lift operates at a slower pace, taking the pressure off beginners who are just figuring out how to get on and off the lift. The Boreal Kids Club offers skiing lessons for kids 4-12, and snowboarding lessons for kids 8 and up. After the day’s lessons are over, children are permitted to keep their equipment for the rest of the day, so they can show off what they have learned.
Boreal is also home to the Western Ski Sport Museum, which portrays the history of skiing from the 1850s to today. Old ski movies play in a small theater.
To encourage business throughout the ski season, ticket prices are kept relatively low: adults 18-59 are $64, teens 13-17 are $54, seniors 60-69 are $54 and seniors 70-plus are $20, and children 5-12 are $34. Kids age 4 and under ski for just $5 a day. College students and active military can ski for $15 every Friday except for holiday blackout days (bring your ID).
If you really want to save money, try night skiing at Boreal, when adult, teen, and senior tickets are just $34 and kids 5-12 are $24. Boreal also offers a Parent Shared Ticket, allowing two adults to share a single pass, so parents can balance time with their toddlers.
Not far from Boreal are three ski resorts located off Old Highway 40, the road that carried travelers across Donner Summit before I-80 was constructed. The most developed of the three is historic Sugar Bowl (629 Sugar Bowl Rd., Norden, 530/426-9000, www.sugarbowl.com, 9am-4pm daily, $95-99 adults age 23-64, $78-82 teens age 13-22 and seniors age 65-74, $55-59 kids age 6-12 and seniors 75 and older; children 5 and under free), considered to be the grand old dame of Tahoe resorts. Sugar Bowl can boast of having the first chairlift in operation in California, which started transporting skiers in 1936. Due in part to the secluded Lodge at Sugar Bowl, with guest rooms and a view-filled dining room located at the top of the mile-long gondola, this 1930s-era resort has a decidedly European feel. Most years, it can boast of having the most snow of any resort on the North Shore. Because of its high base elevation (6,883 feet), average snowfall is a whopping 500 inches, and the resort is known for deep powder and steep chutes. Nearly 100 trails on four mountain peaks are serviced by 13 lifts, including the first gondola built in the United States and five high-speed quads. The longest run, Crowley’s off Mount Lincoln, is three miles long with a 1,500-foot vertical drop. All this, and the resort is only two miles east of I-80 (Norden/Soda Springs exit), so getting here from Sacramento or the San Francisco Bay Area is a piece of cake.
The views from the slopes at Sugar Bowl are wide and dramatic.
If you experience a sense of déjà vu while skiing at Sugar Bowl, it might be because one of its founders was Walt Disney. Matterhorn-esque touches can be seen around the resort. Of all the Tahoe ski resorts, this one exhibits the most alpine charm. But the quaintness of the place doesn’t mean it isn’t right for snowboarders who just want to carve some turns. Sugar Bowl’s Mount Judah features several terrain parks, including a half-pipe. And if you are thinking of bringing the kids for their first snow-sport lessons, the 7,000-square-foot Mountain Sports Learning Center has ticketing, lessons, and rentals under one roof. Child care is available for children 4-6 through the Sugar Bears program, which includes a non-intensive ski lesson.
At Donner Summit, Soda Springs Winter Resort (Old Hwy. 40/Donner Pass Rd., Norden, 530/426-3901, www.skisodasprings.com, 9am-4pm Thurs.-Mon., $44 adults and teens, $34 children 12 and under, rates include tubing and skiing) is a great beginner hill, with gentle, wide-open runs. Located just one mile off I-80 at Donner Summit, the resort is easy to reach, but you’ll never find big crowds here. You won’t find high-priced lift tickets, either. Ticket prices include access to all lifts, snow-tubing tows, snowshoeing trails, and a sledding area. This place is all about family fun, with just as much emphasis placed on their tubing run as on skiing and riding. The resort has only four lifts—two for skiing, which access 16 runs, and two for tubing.
Note that Soda Springs is usually closed on Tuesday and Wednesday, except during major holidays. And if you care about being an eco-friendly skier or rider, you’ll be happy to know that Soda Springs operates on 100 percent green power.
The last of the three resorts on the old Donner Pass Road is Donner Ski Ranch (19320 Old Hwy. 40/Donner Pass Rd., Norden, 530/426-3635, www.donnerskiranch.com, 9am-4pm daily, $59 adults age 18-69, $48 teens age 13-17, $25 children age 7-12 and seniors age 70 and older, $5 children age 6 and under), a historic, family-owned resort that believes staying small is a good thing. The resort has six chairlifts that service 52 runs spread out over 500 acres. The longest run is 1.5 miles with a 750-foot vertical drop. Uncrowded slopes and lots of beginner runs (25 percent) give novice skiers and riders a chance to gain confidence. Like at nearby Soda Springs Resort, ticket prices are a real bargain. Beginners can get an all-day lift ticket, equipment rentals, and a one-hour lesson for $75 adults and teens, $69 children ages 7-12. Intermediates can have fun here, too; 50 percent of the trails are devoted to them.
One additional low-key beginner area is located just north of Truckee. Tahoe Donner Downhill Ski Area (11603 Snowpeak Way, Truckee, 530/587-9400, www.tahoedonner.com, 9am-4pm daily, $47 adults, $34 teens, $22 children 7-12 and seniors 60-69, children 6 and under and seniors 70 and older free) has gentle, wide-open bowls with almost no obstacles to intimidate novice skiers and riders. Three lifts service 14 runs on 120 skiable acres. There are no black-diamond runs here; 40 percent of the runs are for beginners, and the other 60 percent are intermediate.
Smallest of all the ski hills and the most subdued is Granlibakken (725 Granlibakken Rd., Tahoe City, 530/583-4242 or 877/552-0187, www.granlibakken.com, Fri.-Sun., daily during Christmas and New Year’s holidays, $30-35 adults, $20-25 children 12 and under), a few miles south of Tahoe City. The oldest and least expensive ski “resort” at Lake Tahoe, Granlibakken was founded in 1931 as a training hill for Olympic ski jumpers. With only one run possible, skiers don’t have to study the trail map before hitting the slope. Plus, if you are prone to falling, the vertical drop is only 300 feet. Learn-to-ski or learn-to-snowboard packages ($50-70) include rentals, so there isn’t any place less expensive to take your first ski or snowboard lesson. Stay-and-ski packages are a popular option for parents who want to teach their kids how to ski or snowboard. The ski hill, ski school, and snack bar are open Friday-Sunday only, except for holiday periods, when they are open daily. So what’s a granlibakken? It is Norwegian for “hill sheltered by fir trees.”
Thanks to Pacific Crest Snowcats (530/386-6618, www.pacificcrestsnowcats.com), you don’t have to go all the way to Idaho or Montana to achieve the thrill of face shots in untracked snow. The company operates up to two snowcats daily with space available for up to 12 guests and two guides per snowcat. A typical day allows skiers to take 8-10 runs through backcountry terrain consisting of gladed trees, open bowls, steep chutes, and classic couloirs. The company has access to more than 3,000 acres of terrain located between Squaw Valley USA and Sugar Bowl resorts. The company has also paired with Pacific Crest Heli-Guides to offer helicopter-accessed backcountry trips when snow conditions permit.
Although some of the aforementioned downhill ski areas offer a smattering of Nordic ski trails as well, they don’t hold a candle to a few North Shore resorts that specialize in it. For serious cross-country skiers and skate skiers, the only resorts worth considering are Royal Gorge and Tahoe Donner in the Truckee area, and Tahoe Cross-Country in Tahoe City. Northstar California receives an honorable mention. All of these resorts have groomed trails suitable for both skate skiing and traditional Nordic skiing (striding, or classic), as well as lessons, rentals, and beginner packages.
Owned and managed by Sugar Bowl Ski Resort as of 2014, Royal Gorge (9411 Pahatsi Road, Soda Springs, 530/426-3871, www.royalgorge.com, 8:30am-4pm daily) is experiencing a revival. That’s great news for cross-country skiers. For several years the resort suffered from mismanagement and tough financial times, but thanks to the new Sugar Bowl management, the Gorge once again offers the kind of first-class experience that visitors want from North America’s largest cross-country ski resort. One hundred different trails (32 novice, 50 intermediate, and 18 advanced) crisscross 9,000 acres of terrain. The resort boasts 330 kilometers of wide, machine-groomed track, a snowmaking system, four surface lifts for practicing downhill technique, three trailside cafés, an overnight lodge, and eight warming huts sprinkled around the mountain. With a base elevation of 7,000 feet, the resort sees an annual snowfall that exceeds 600 inches. Skiers can bring their snow-loving dogs, too: Dogs are permitted on a couple of Royal Gorge’s trails for a $50 dog pass, good for all season. All-day trail passes are $32-35 adults, $27-30 young adults 13-22 and seniors 65-74, and free for children 12 and under and seniors 75-plus. Half-day passes (after 12:30pm) are $5 less for all age groups.
Because the resort is less than one mile from the Soda Springs/Norden exit off I-80, it is easily accessible for people coming from the Bay Area or Sacramento.
A few miles farther east, Tahoe Donner Cross Country (15275 Alder Creek Rd., Truckee, 530/587-9484, www.tahoedonner.com, 8:30am-5pm daily Dec.-Mar., weather depending; $29 adults, $21 teens and seniors 60-69, $11 seniors 70 and older and kids 12 and under) has 51 trails covering 100 kilometers and 4,800 acres of terrain. The vast majority is suited to beginners and intermediates. Tahoe Donner is a very community-oriented resort; you’ll see lots of local schoolkids training for races. If you want to learn skate skiing or traditional cross-country skiing (striding, or classic), the resort’s instructors are top-notch. Private and group lessons are offered a few times daily. Five trailside warming huts give you a place to catch your breath; the Tahoe Donner Day Lodge offers terrific hot meals plus ski rentals and the like. On Wednesday nights in January and February, the resort lights up a 2.5-kilometer loop for night skiing (5pm-7pm).
Closer to the lake, Tahoe Cross Country (925 Country Club Dr., Tahoe City, 530/583-5475, www.tahoexc.org, 8:30am-4:30pm daily Dec.-Apr., weather depending; $25 adults, $21 teens and seniors 60-69, seniors age 70 and older and kids 12 and under free, dogs $5) is located three miles north of downtown Tahoe City. You can kick-and-glide or skate on 19 groomed trails that cover 65 kilometers. Plenty of locals show up in the early morning and knock out a quick aerobic workout before they go to work. A huge draw at Tahoe Cross Country is that dogs are welcome on a handful of trails—a rarity at cross-country ski areas. (Dogs are permitted only on weekdays 8:30am-5pm and weekends and holidays 2pm-5pm.) Three trailside warming huts provide shelter or a meeting point for a midday lunch. A very cozy day lodge has games for the kids, hot food and drinks, and a warm fire.
Tahoe Cross Country also operates the Tahoe City Winter Sports Park (251 N. Lake Blvd., Tahoe City, 530/583-1516, www.wintersportspark.com) in the heart of Tahoe City, on the golf course right behind the Bank of America. The rental shop, restaurant, and bar are open on the weekends, but if you have your own equipment, you can cross-country ski, snowshoe, or sled any day of the week ($10 per person trail fee).
Of the big downhill resorts that offer cross-country skiing, Northstar California (Hwy. 267 and Northstar Dr., Truckee, 530/562-2475 or 530/562-2218, www.northstarcalifornia.com, 9am-4pm Mon.-Thurs., 8:30am-4pm Fri.-Sun. and holidays, $33 adults and teens, $29 seniors 65 and older, $25 children 5-12, children under 5 free) has the most extensive trail system (38 trails covering 35 kilometers), plus equipment rentals, lessons, and warming huts. From Northstar Village, you have to ride the gondola (or take the express chairlift) to reach mid-mountain and the cross-country skiing day lodge. This means that even if you don’t need to rent equipment, it will take you about 25-30 minutes from the time you park your car until you can actually start skiing. You must walk from the parking lot though the Village, board the gondola and ride uphill, and then walk the short distance to the cross-country lodge to access the ski trails.
Northstar’s trail fees provide access to the machine-packed trail system (for skate skiing, cross-country skiing, and snowshoeing), plus use of the Big Springs Express Gondola and the Village Express Quad chairlift. Half-day and full-day telemarking clinics are offered. For beginners, a downer at Northstar (and if you’re aerobically fit, it’s not much of a downer) is that from the day lodge where you rent equipment and get your trail pass, you have to ski uphill for about a mile to reach the main trail system. Some novices get pretty discouraged on that first uphill mile.
The Resort at Squaw Creek Nordic Center (400 Squaw Creek Rd., Olympic Valley, 530/583-6300, ext. 6631, www.squawcreek.com, 9am-5pm daily, adults $45, children $24) has 18 kilometers of groomed trails spread out over 400 acres, plus an on-site rental and repair shop. These trails are 70 percent beginner-level, so it’s a good place to learn how to kick and glide, but not so great if you already have some experience. All trails begin at the Squaw Creek parking lot.
Do-it-yourselfers can get their glide on at one of the state-run Sno-Parks in the vicinity. Sno-Parks, which are basically plowed parking lots alongside or near the highway, are marked by distinctive brown signs. Here, for the price of a $5 daily permit or $25 annual permit, you can ski on marked and unmarked trails. Sno-Park permits are sold at sporting-goods stores, businesses located near Sno-Parks, and many other locations. The Sno-Park program hotline (916/324-1222) has information on where to buy permits and where Sno-Parks are located.
Squaw Valley USA may be the exclusive domain of skiers and riders in winter, but in the summer months it becomes Familyville. The resort offers a multitude of activities that appeal to kids, from ice-skating and swimming at High Camp Bath and Tennis Club to climbing walls and a ropes course at the Squaw Valley Adventure Center (530/386-1044, www.squawadventure.com). A 30-foot indoor wall and a 45-footer outside attract kids of all ages (including adults). This is basically rock climbing in an artificial, gym-type environment, with the climbers on belay. An all-day pass is $15 per person. The ropes course consists of a mammoth-size jungle gym that is built on and around 50-foot-high towers. A session on the course is $40 for kids 7-15 or $50 adults. As if that isn’t enough to give Mom a heart attack, there’s the Skyjump Bungee Trampoline, where kids can do somersaults and flips while hanging tethered in midair. The cost is $12 for a five-minute session.
The Village at Northstar (866/369-0215, www.northstarcalifornia.com) is giving Squaw a run for its money in terms of attracting visiting families, especially in the summer months. In addition to its mountain-bike park, which appeals more to older kids and adults, the resort offers free scenic chairlift rides for sightseeing and hiking, roller skating in summer and ice-skating in winter, and a bungee trampoline for kids. Adults will also enjoy the two dozen boutique shops and multiple dining options.
ice-skating at the Village at Northstar
For an activity that measures zero on the adrenaline meter, you can always take the kids to play a round of miniature golf (in summer only, of course). On the North Shore, two putt-putt golf courses are open Easter-Thanksgiving, weather permitting: Kings Beach Miniature Golf (8693 N. Lake Blvd., Kings Beach, 530/546-3196) and Magic Carpet Golf (5167 N. Lake Blvd., Carnelian Bay, 530/546-4279). Magic Carpet has several different courses, including one with a Tahoe theme: waterfall, bears, etc. There’s also a video arcade where kids can play all the latest games. Rates are $8-11 per person for a round of mini-golf.
If you are looking for a place to take the kids to get their ya-yas out without having to visit the local automated teller machine, try Commons Beach (at Fanny Bridge and the Tahoe City Y) in Tahoe City, where a playground area includes a mini-boulder for junior “rock climbers” ages six and older, plus swings and other playground equipment for kids of all ages.
For something more educational, young children are sure to enjoy the Kid Zone Museum (11711 Donner Pass Rd., Truckee, 530/587-5437, www.kidzonemuseum.org, 10am-5pm Tues.-Sun., call to check on reduced winter hours, $8 admission), which has hands-on educational exhibits designed for the little ones, plus an art center and computer corner.
In winter, don’t forget to spend a few hours on one of the local sledding or tubing hills with the kids, or take them on a horse-drawn carriage ride or a dogsled ride. And for a summertime family-bonding activity, be sure to rent a raft in Tahoe City and float lazily down the Truckee River, or take the whole family on a bike ride on the paved Truckee River Recreation Trail.
At Donner Lake Sno-Park (by the Emigrant Trail Museum at Donner Memorial State Park, Donner Lake exit off I-80, 530/582-7892), marked ski trails lead along the shore of Donner Lake and to the Donner Party historic sites. At Donner Summit Sno-Park (Castle Peak exit off I-80, just past the Boreal Inn, 530/587-3558), parking is on the south side of the highway, but the skiing trails are on the north side (ski underneath the freeway on the frontage road). This is a very popular area, with many skiers heading up to Castle Peak.
On the West Shore, three miles south of Tahoe City, Blackwood Canyon Sno-Park (Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit, 530/543-2600) is open for cross-country skiing and snowmobiling. Blackwood Canyon Road, which is popular for biking and driving in summer, is gated off and unplowed, so it makes a perfect spot for kicking and gliding, or striding on snowshoes. The first 2.5 miles are flat and suitable for beginners; the road/trail continues for another 7 miles and gets more and more steep all the way to the summit of Barker Pass.
Another good area for beginning-to-intermediate skiers are the 15 kilometers of ski trails at Ed Z’berg Sugar Pine Point State Park (7360 Hwy. 89/W. Lake Blvd., Tahoma, 530/525-7982, www.sierrastateparks.org, $10 day-use fee). The park’s campground remains open in winter for intrepid snow campers, and the General Creek Loop makes a perfect easy ski trail, as does the lakeshore near the Ehrman Mansion. Skiing at Sugar Pine Point is like taking part in history; the Nordic skiing and biathlon races of the 1960 Winter Olympics were held on these same trails. Skiing is free, but you do need to pay a parking fee of $10.
A great source of information on the West Shore’s cross-country ski trails (Sugar Pine Point, Blackwood Canyon, Paige Meadows, McKinney-Rubicon Road, and Meeks Creek, among others) is West Shore Sports (5395 W. Lake Blvd., Homewood, 530/525-9920, www.westshoresports.com, 8am-5pm daily). They also rent cross-country skis and snowshoes for $18-25 per day.
And finally, it’s not much to brag about, but it’s only five bucks: North Tahoe Regional Park (875 National Ave., Tahoe Vista, 530/546-0605) also has 11 kilometers of groomed cross-country skiing trails. For an hour or so of exercise, this place works just fine.
Although most snowshoers prefer to set off on their own on backcountry trails, beginners and those seeking a tamer experience can head to one of Tahoe’s big resorts to get some experience. At Alpine Meadows (2600 Alpine Meadows Rd., Tahoe City, 530/583-4232, www.skialpine.com), marked snowshoe trails begin near the lodge and meander through the forests around the base of the mountain. At Northstar California (Hwy. 267 and Northstar Dr., Truckee, 530/562-1010, www.northstarcalifornia.com), snowshoers can travel on all 60 kilometers of the cross-country ski trail system, and the resort holds frequent snowshoe clinics and races.
Snowshoers can also access the 18 kilometers of cross-country trails at the Resort at Squaw Creek (400 Squaw Creek Rd., Olympic Valley, 530/581-6637). And at Royal Gorge (9411 Pahatsi Rd., Soda Springs, 530/426-3871, www.royalgorge.com), North America’s largest cross-country ski resort, snowshoers can take their pick from 90 groomed trails that travel a total distance of 330 kilometers. At all sites, snowshoe rentals are available. Rates are typically $21-30 for a half day or $27-35 for a full day.
Some of the big ski resorts offer guided snowshoe tours. Sign up for one of the guided full-moon snowshoe tours at Squaw Valley (530/583-6983, www.squaw.com), held a few nights each month in winter. Cost for the tour, snowshoe rentals, and dinner is $69 per adult, $35 children. Northstar California offers a wide range of snowshoe tours, from easy, family-oriented afternoon tours to moonlight tours and stargazing tours complete with telescope viewing ($49-59 adults, $29-42 children, dogs on leash permitted on evening tours). Snowshoes can be rented for an additional charge. Evening tours are very popular, so advance reservations are required.
On the West Shore, the rangers at Ed Z’berg Sugar Pine Point State Park hold guided snowshoe walks on occasional winter/spring weekends and full-moon nights. Phone the park at 530/525-7982 or visit www.parks.ca.gov for a current schedule.
If you miss riding your mountain bike during the winter months, you will love the fat-tire snowbiking at Royal Gorge (9411 Pahatsi Rd., Soda Springs, 530/426-3871, www.royalgorge.com, 8:30am-4pm daily, $35 for two hours). These bikes-on-steroids feature overly exaggerated tires, allowing pedal-pushers to get out on groomed winter trails and go for a ride. The tire footprint is three times as large as a regular mountain bike. And while normal mountain bike tires are pumped to 35 pounds per square inch (psi), fat bikes have only 8-10 psi. This leads to more surface area hitting the snow for better traction.
A fleet of bikes are available for rent at Royal Gorge’s Van Norden parking lot or at Mt. Judah Ski & Sports (Sugar Bowl Village, 530/426-6794). Snowbikes can also be rented at The Gravity Shop (475 N. Lake Blvd., Tahoe City, 530/581-2558, www.tahoegravityshop.com, 9:30am-6pm Mon.-Sat.).
World champion snowkiter Tyler Brown offers snowkiting lessons and rentals at Sierra Snowkite Center (530/816-0484, www.sierrasnowkite.com) and its 250-acre plot of snow-covered meadow near Sugar Bowl and Royal Gorge. For those unfamiliar with snowkiting, the idea is pretty simple: skiers and snowboarders use a large kite, like the ones used for kiteboarding on water, to harness the wind and speed them along the snow. The 1.5-hour Intro to Kite Flying ($75) class is suitable for all ages and teaches the basics of mountain wind theory and launching, landing, and steering. The all-day Learn to Snowkite class ($350) teaches you enough so that you can competently snowkite on your own. Private lessons and backcountry adventures are also available.
Sometimes the most fun in the snow comes from using the simplest equipment, and that’s why tubing parks and sledding hills are a big hit around Lake Tahoe. Several ski resorts have gotten in on the tubing action, including Boreal, which has its own tubing playground, Playland Tube Park (19455 Boreal Ridge Rd., Soda Springs, 530/426-3666, www.borealski.com or www.rideboreal.com, 10am-4pm Sun.-Fri., 10am-8pm Sat., $34 for two hours).
The Soda Springs ski resort has Tube Town ($25 for all ages all day, Old Hwy. 40/Donner Pass Rd., Norden, 530/426-3901, www.skisodasprings.com), with tubing offered daily 10am-4pm. If you think tubing is mere child’s play, get on the Tube Express and be prepared to have your socks knocked off. Soda Springs also has the Little Dipper and Planet Kids, geared for ages 8 and under (under 42 inches tall), with a “moving carpet” to help kids get up the slope. Kids 6-12 can hop on their very own pint-size snowmobiles and try out the sport of snowmobiling on a circular track ($10 for 10 laps).
On the West Shore, Granlibakken Resort (625 Granlibakken Rd., Tahoe City, 530/583-4242 or 877/552-0187, www.granlibakken.com) has a saucer hill; the cost is a mere $15 per person, including saucer rental. No toboggans or tubes are allowed, but sleds are fine.
Squaw Valley USA (1960 Squaw Valley Rd., Olympic Valley, 530/583-6955 or 530/583-6985, www.squaw.com) has three snow-tubing lanes, open to tubers ages four and up. Rates are $29 per hour. Northstar California (Hwy. 267 and Northstar Dr., Truckee, 530/562-2475 or 530/562-2218, www.northstarcalifornia.com) has snow-tubing lanes at mid-mountain. Rates are $35 for the first hour and $25 per hour thereafter.
The locals’ favorite is the family snow-play area at North Tahoe Regional Park (at the end of National Ave., Tahoe Vista, 530/546-0605 or 530/546-4212). For only $5 per person, families can play in the snow all day (saucers, tubes, or sleds provided; you can’t bring your own equipment). The park also has a snack bar, bonfire pit, heated restrooms, and picnic area, plus panoramic lake views. Or bring your own equipment to the Tahoe City Snow Play Area, just a few hundred feet south of the Tahoe City Y, and the sledding is free.
Because of the proximity of miles of Tahoe National Forest lands, snowmobiling opportunities abound on the North and West Shores. For those who have their own machines, two popular snowmobile trailheads are at Brockway Summit on Highway 267 (3 miles north of Kings Beach) and Little Truckee Summit on Highway 89 (16 miles north of the I-80/Hwy. 89 junction in Truckee). Contact the U.S. Forest Service (530/994-3401) for more information. On the West Shore, three miles south of Tahoe City, Blackwood Canyon Sno-Park (530/543-2600) is also open for snowmobiling.
Snowmobiling is a popular winter activity on the North Shore.
Those who don’t want to sign up for an organized tour but would still like to experience the cheap thrill of revving up a snowmobile can head for North Tahoe Regional Park in Tahoe Vista (at the end of National Ave.), where North Tahoe Winter Adventures (530/546-0605) will rent you a machine to drive around their groomed track ($50 for 30 minutes).
Beginners and others who would like to take a snowmobile tour have several options. Lake Tahoe Snowmobile Tours (530/546-4280, www.laketahoesnowmobilingtours.com, $150-320 for one person on a single-rider machine, $180-390 for two on a double-rider machine) operates from a base camp one mile south of Northstar California off Highway 267. They offer a 90-minute lakeview tour and a two-hour summit tour several times daily, plus private tours by special arrangement. Helmets are included; snowsuits, gloves, and boots can be rented for $15 (a really good idea). Advance reservations are recommended.
Several other companies offer similar snowmobile tours on the North Shore. Typical rates for a two-hour tour are $150 for a single rider or $180 for two riders on a double machine. Eagle Ridge Snowmobile Outfitters (530/546-8667, www.tahoesnowmobiling.com) operates on Tahoe National Forest land 14 miles north of Truckee. The company has 200 miles of groomed trails for beginners, and cross-country riding on untracked powder for more advanced riders. Tours of various lengths are available, from two hours to two days. Moonlight rides are also offered. Coldstream Adventures (530/582-9090, www.coldstreamadventures.com) also provides snowmobile tours in Tahoe National Forest.
For the graceful, several skating rinks operate around the North Shore. In the Squaw Valley area, the outdoor Olympic Ice Pavilion (1960 Squaw Valley Rd., Olympic Valley, 530/581-7246 or 530/583-6985, www.squaw.com, 11am-4pm daily Nov.-Apr., 11am-8pm during winter holidays) offers winter skating at its Olympic-size rink (100 by 200 feet), but you must pay to ride the cable car to High Camp to skate there. Cable-car rates are $39 for adults and $25 for young adults 13-22 and seniors 65-75. Everybody else rides for $10. Add to that the skating fee: adults $12 per hour and children $6 per hour, including rentals. The rink used to be open for ice-skating year-round, but it was too difficult to maintain the ice in summer. Now it is converted to a roller-skating rink in the warmer months.
Down in the valley below, the Resort at Squaw Creek (400 Squaw Creek Rd., Squaw Valley, 530/583-6300, www.squawcreek.com, 10am-10pm daily Nov.-Apr., $15 adults, $12 children 5-15, $8 kids under 5, including skate rental) has its own ice-skating rink, but it is sized more for beginning skaters and children. Mom and Dad can watch the action from a large, sunny deck by the rink.
Northstar California (Hwy. 267 and Northstar Dr., Truckee, 530/562-3689, www.northstarcalifornia.com, noon-8pm Sun.-Thurs., noon-9pm Fri.-Sat., skate rentals $10) has a 9,000-square-foot ice rink at the center of the Village at Northstar, complete with live music on weekends, cabana bars, outdoor fire pits, and a s’mores kiosk. Skating is free, but all skaters must sign a waiver. If you don’t know how to skate, lessons are available.
If you’d rather skate with the North Shore locals, head to the Truckee River Regional Park ice-skating rink (10500 Brockway Rd., 530/582-7720 or 530/587-6172, www.tdrpd.com, Wed.-Sun. late Nov.-mid-Mar., hours vary so call ahead, $6 per person, skate rentals $2.50). Located 0.5 mile south of downtown Truckee off Highway 267, the ice rink features public skating, skate rentals, a snack bar, and group and private lessons for all age groups taught by experienced instructors. The outdoor rink is set amid tall pines, and there’s usually a bonfire burning (bring your marshmallows), overhead lights in the evening, and music to skate by.
There’s nothing like dashing through the snow in a horse-drawn open sleigh to make you feel like winter is the greatest season of them all. Snuggle up with your sweetie under a warm woolen blanket while Trigger and his friends, or Rover and her friends, trot through the white stuff. Watching the animals at work is as much fun as enjoying the scenery; the horses and dogs seem to enjoy the trip as much as their human passengers. Depending on snow conditions, horse-drawn sleigh rides are often available at the Resort at Squaw Creek (530/583-6300 or 800/327-3353, www.squawcreek.com, $50 adults, $25 kids 2-10, $100 minimum). If you have your heart set on this activity, call ahead to make sure the horses are available and the snow is deep enough.
If you’d rather have your sleigh pulled by a group of 8-10 strong and friendly Alaskan huskies, contact Wilderness Adventures (530/550-8133, www.tahoedogsledtours.com, $110-125 per person weighing more than 60 pounds, $55-75 for children weighing less than 60 pounds). The panting dogs travel at an average speed of about 13-14 miles per hour, so this is a great way to see the countryside. Dogsleds can accommodate two adults and two children, with a maximum weight of 500 pounds per sled. If you have more people in your party, the company can run two or more sleds simultaneously. One-hour tours are offered daily at the Resort at Squaw Creek, weather permitting. Reservations are required.