the Flume Trail
TAHOE ENVIRONMENTAL RESEARCH CENTER
DOWNHILL SKIING AND SNOWBOARDING
the private beach at Hyatt High Sierra Lodge.
Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.
S Sierra Cloud Cruise: Board this 55-foot catamaran from the Hyatt Regency’s “floating bar” on its pier, then ply the waters of Tahoe while enjoying beer, wine, and appetizers (click here).
S Memorial Point: This easy-access lake vista is located just a few miles south of Incline Village and provides a scenic introduction to the boulder-lined beauty of the East Shore (click here).
S Thunderbird Lodge: Marvel at the eccentricities of fabulously wealthy real estate magnate George Whittell Jr., who built this 16,500-square-foot mansion on Tahoe’s shoreline and kept exotic pets (click here).
S Virginia City: A short drive brings you to Virginia City, the town made infamous by the Comstock silver-mining boom of 1857-1877, and at that time the second-biggest city in the West (click here).
S Chimney Beach and Secret Harbor: This easy hike descends a little more than a half mile to Tahoe’s east shoreline. From there, a path runs to a series of rocky coves and secluded beaches, where there is plenty of room for swimmers and sunbathers to claim their own private stretch of sand (click here).
S Sand Harbor: This long white stretch of sand dotted with rounded boulders is a fine place to while away a summer’s day (click here).
S Flume Trail: One of the West’s most famous trails runs high above Lake Tahoe’s East Shore, providing outstanding lake views and nerve-wracking drop-offs (click here).
The sunny East Shore of Lake Tahoe has two decidedly different personalities: the wealthy ski-and-golf town of Incline Village with the casinos of Crystal Bay and the seemingly endless white sand caressing the Nevada shoreline to the south.
In Incline Village and Crystal Bay, you’ll find some of the highest-income residents and most architecturally extravagant homes on the lake. Traveling southward, you’ll find thousands of acres of undeveloped land—managed by the U.S. Forest Service and Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park—including the longest stretch of uninterrupted public shoreline on the entire lake.
The two biggest towns, Crystal Bay and Incline Village, are separated by a five-minute drive. Crystal Bay is marked by its four casinos—Crystal Bay Club, Cal-Neva Resort, Tahoe Biltmore, and Jim Kelly’s Nugget—which, unlike their more modern South Shore counterparts, are throwbacks to the gaming spirit of the 1950s and 1960s. The well-heeled town of Incline Village received its name not from its two nearby ski resorts but from the 1860s-era Incline Tramway, a 4,000-foot hydraulic tramway that hauled lumber 1,400 vertical feet to the top of the ridge. The lumber then traveled in a water flume to the Virginia and Truckee Railroad yard near Carson City for use in the Virginia City silver mines.
By the late 1800s, Incline Village was completely deforested, and it remained a mere blip on the map until the late 1950s, when it was developed as a vacation resort as part of the Tahoe growth spurt instigated by the 1960 Winter Olympics at Squaw Valley. Even though the town is clearly well-to-do, its ambience is understated. The main landmark that defines the area is 10,778-foot Mount Rose, which offers some of Lake Tahoe’s best skiing in winter and highest-elevation hiking in summer.
A drive along the East Shore in the 20-mile stretch from Incline Village south to Zephyr Cove is pure eye candy. Although much of Highway 28 is lined by densely forested slopes, where the groves of conifers part, stunning vistas of the boulder-strewn shoreline and cobalt-blue waters are visible. You’ll find very little in the way of commercial enterprises here, but there is plenty of public shoreline. Here’s your chance to wander along the sand at one of a half-dozen beaches bearing intriguing names, like Hidden, Sand Harbor, and Secret. More than anywhere else on Tahoe’s shores, this is the place to go when you want to feel sand between your toes, cool off in the water, bask on warm granite boulders, and get lost in your own thoughts.
Except for the towns of Incline Village and Crystal Bay, there is little in the way of visitor services on the East Shore. While mountain bikers and hikers could easily spend a week or more exploring the area’s trails in summer, most visitors will be satisfied with two or three days here, whether for a skiing vacation in winter or a swimming and sunning vacation in summer.
Be sure to allow enough time to drive the length of the East Shore and spend some time at one or more of its scenic beaches, such as Sand Harbor. A sailboat cruise on the catamaran Sierra Cloud out of the Incline Village Hyatt Regency is a fine way to spend an afternoon. In the summer months, a tour of the Thunderbird Lodge is a must, and year-round you’ll want to spend a half day or longer at Virginia City.
Board the 55-foot catamaran Sierra Cloud from the Hyatt Regency’s “floating bar” on its pier (on the beach behind the Hyatt’s Lone Eagle Grille, 967 Lakeshore Blvd., Incline Village, 775/831-4386, www.awsincline.com, 11am, 1:30pm, and 4pm daily and 6:30pm Fri., $70 adults, $40 children), then ply the waters of Tahoe while enjoying beer, wine, and appetizers. Three cruises are offered daily, plus a Friday-evening cruise with live music, each lasting about two hours. A nice assortment of wine, beer, cheese, and crackers are served by the young and friendly crew. With only 45 passengers on board, this cruise feels like a party with a bunch of good friends. For the best chance of having a strong wind in the sails, sign up for the 4pm daily cruise or the Friday-evening sunset cruise (late afternoons are more often breezy). When you return to the Hyatt Regency, you may want to cap off this great experience with dinner at the Lone Eagle Grille.
Currently undergoing an extensive and much-needed renovation but scheduled to reopen in summer 2016, the Cal-Neva Resort and Casino (2 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Crystal Bay, 775/832-4000 or 800/225-6382, www.calnevaresort.com) is a Tahoe institution worthy of a visit, even by non-gamblers. This 1930s-era lakefront casino boasts a fascinating Hollywood-related history. Once owned by crooner Frank Sinatra and visited by Sinatra’s Rat Pack friends and actress Marilyn Monroe, the resort straddles the California-Nevada state line. Guests swimming in the outdoor pool can travel from one state to the next. A fascinating exhibit of Washoe Indian artifacts is on display. Tours of the resort’s underground tunnels are offered to the public.
The scientifically inclined will enjoy a trip to Sierra Nevada College to see the exhibits at the Tahoe Environmental Research Center (291 Country Club Dr., Incline Village, 775/881-7560, www.tahoesciencecenter.com, 1pm-5pm Tues.-Fri. year-round and 1pm-5pm Sat. in summer, tours begin on the hour, free), a building that was constructed with the latest green-building technology. Visitors can step aboard the virtual-reality deck of the UC Davis research vessel to see the instruments used to study the clarity of Lake Tahoe, or don 3-D glasses and “dive” under Lake Tahoe’s surface, fly around the basin’s watersheds, and see inside planet Earth to learn where earthquakes originate. The 3-D film Go Jump in the Lake was funded by the National Science Foundation and shot by underwater divers who captured video that shows Kokanee salmon spawning, schools of native fish, and the spread of invasive species such as Asian clams.
Memorial Point Overlook (Hwy. 28, two miles south of Incline Village) features one of the best and easiest-to-access lake vistas. Short trails lead to the edge of the lake, and there are lots of big boulders to climb around on (but no sand). Pack along a picnic, and you could easily while away an hour or two here, especially at sunset. Even in the winter months, when much of the lakeshore is covered with snow, this sunny spot is usually warm and accessible. Best of all, there’s no fee.
Part of the Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park system, Sand Harbor (2005 Hwy. 28, 775/831-0494, www.parks.nv.gov, 8am-9pm daily in summer, 8am-7pm daily May and Sept., 8am-5pm daily Oct.-Apr., parking $12, $2 walk-ins) offers a rocky shoreline for fishing, a cove for snorkeling and scuba diving, a boat launch, sandy beaches for swimming and sunning, a stunning visitors center, a café and concession stand, and a self-guided, wheelchair-accessible nature trail along Sand Point. The 5,000-square-foot visitors center has exhibits about Lake Tahoe’s cultural and natural history and an interactive map of the Tahoe basin. Sand Harbor’s gentle turquoise coves backed by giant granite boulders are a favorite spot for sunbathers, swimmers, and photographers. The crescent-shaped beach boasts soft, fine-grained, white sand, not the coarse gravelly stuff that is found on most of the East Shore’s beaches.
Kayak and paddleboard rentals are available by advance reservation through Sand Harbor Rentals (530/581-4336, www.sandharborrentals.com, 8am-5:30pm daily in summer, $25-40 per hour), located under the white tent at the boat ramp. Lessons are also available, as well as guided kayak tours to nearby Thunderbird Lodge. Hobie Island sailboats ($95-140 for two hours) are also available for rent. Every summer Sand Harbor hosts the annual Lake Tahoe Shakespeare Festival (800/747-4697, www.laketahoeshakespeare.com) and other cultural events at its lakeside outdoor amphitheater. Food is available at the Char-Pit (775/832-5115, daily late May-early Sept.) hamburger stand.
Sand Harbor is located three miles south of Incline Village. During July and August, it is best to arrive before 11am or after 4pm, as the parking lot fills up during peak afternoon hours. Between 3,000 and 5,000 visitors come here each day on the busiest summer weekends. Save yourself the hassle of driving and ride the low-cost shuttle from Incline Village into the park. The Tahoe Transportation District runs the East Shore Express (weekends only in June, daily June 29-Sept. 1). The bus departs Incline Village (771 Southwood Blvd.) every 20 minutes from 10am to 7:20pm. The cost is $3 per adult, $1.50 children ages 5-12 and seniors 60 and older, and that includes the entrance fee for the park. Coolers and beach chairs are allowed on the bus, but no bikes, barbecues, grills, or flammable liquids.
Eight miles south of Incline Village is the Thunderbird Lodge (5000 Hwy. 28, 775/832-8750, www.thunderbirdtahoe.org, tours Tues.-Sat. in summer, $39 adults, $19 children 6-12, children under 6 not permitted), an extravagant stone mansion that is Lake Tahoe’s answer to Hearst Castle in San Simeon, California. The Thunderbird was built in the late 1930s by eccentric San Francisco real estate magnate George Whittell Jr., whose household pets included a lion named Bill and a small elephant. He erected a lighthouse on his 140 acres of lake frontage, and built a 600-foot-long underground tunnel to connect his boathouse (the largest one on Lake Tahoe) to the main house. The estate was later purchased and added to by financier Jack Dreyfus in the 1980s.
Comprising a 16,500-square-foot main lodge and a series of Tudor-revival cottages and outbuildings connected by winding pathways, bridges, staircases, and waterfall- and fountain-laden patios, the estate is a masterpiece of fine craftsmanship, with exquisite stone masonry and wrought-iron work. Docents lead 75-minute tours around the property, giving visitors a whole new definition of what it means to be rich. A highlight of the trip is the chance to see the Thunderbird speedboat, a 55-foot-long, John Hacker design with a mahogany hull and dual aircraft engine. The boat, which was built in 1939 and is now worth about $1.5 million, is usually berthed in the boathouse.
Tours of the property are available by reservation only. Visitors must be shuttled by bus to the lodge from the Incline Village/Crystal Bay Visitors Bureau (969 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Incline Village, 775/832-1606 or 800/468-2463, www.activitytickets.com, Tues.-Sat. May-Oct., $39 adult, $19 children ages 6-12). A special wine pairing tour ($100 per person) is offered on Friday afternoons at 2pm, complete with appetizers, wine, and beer.
The Thunderbird Lodge can also be visited by boat, departing from the Hyatt Regency in Incline Village (775/831-4386 or 800/553-3288, www.awsincline.com, $120 adults, $90 children 6-12). The boat trip includes a guided walking tour of Thunderbird Lodge.
If you are staying on the South Shore, you can tour the Thunderbird Lodge by boarding the 40-foot wooden yacht Tahoe at Zephyr Cove Marina (775/230-8907, www.cruisetahoe.com, $139 adults, not recommended for children, 9:30am departure Tues.-Sun. in summer, advance reservations required).
Every Tuesday in summer, Tahoe Adventure Company/Sand Harbor Rentals at Sand Harbor State Park offers guided kayak tours (530/581-4336, www.sandharborrentals.com, $125 per person or $79 if you bring your own kayak) to Thunderbird Lodge. After a brief paddling lesson, kayakers paddle an easy 1.5 miles to the lodge, stop for a rest and snacks, take a guided walking tour of the lodge, and then paddle back to Sand Harbor.
Located on the lake side of Highway 28, one mile north of the Cave Rock tunnels, the Logan Shoals Vista point (free) is a fine spot to take a break from the highway and enjoy a view of Lake Tahoe and a banquet of peaks—Echo, Tallac, the twin Maggies, Rubicon, Ellis, Barker, Twin, Ward, Squaw, and Watson, among others. Directly across the lake is the broad U-shaped valley of Emerald Bay, which was carved out by receding glaciers. Peering through a cluster of pines, you also can get a fair view of Cave Rock to the south.
Formed about three million years ago by a volcanic eruption, the rugged face of Cave Rock is the most notable geologic feature of the East Shore. The rock, which rises 360 feet above the lake’s surface, was named not for the manufactured U.S. 50 tunnels that pass through it, but for the small caves on its southwest side that were cut by waves during the ice age when the lake was 200 feet higher than it is today. Cave Rock is actually not a rock at all, but an andesite plug that was the neck of an old volcano.
Washoe Indians, who lived at Lake Tahoe for more than 10,000 years, have always believed that is a sacred place. Only the Washoe shaman was allowed to enter its cave, to seek guidance for aiding the tribe. Today much of the cave has been altered by development, but Washoes still visit here to pay tribute to their past.
Also of great significance to white miners in the mid-1800s, Cave Rock was a major landmark on the Lake Bigler Toll Road, which the gold diggers used to travel back and forth to the Comstock mines in Nevada. The current tunnels in the rock were blasted for the construction of U.S. 50, the first tunnel in 1931 and the second in 1958.
For one of Lake Tahoe’s best views, hike to the top of Cave Rock from the trailhead at the end of Cave Rock Drive. (As you are driving north on Highway 50, watch for the sign for Cave Rock Estates and Cave Rock Drive on your right shortly before you reach the tunnel. The road ends in 0.2 mile at a dirt parking area.) Follow the obvious trail toward the rock; you’ll be on top in about 10 minutes of walking. There are some steep and scary drop-offs in the last 20 feet or so, so wear sturdy shoes and leave young children at home.
Just south of Cave Rock is a small Nevada state park with a boat launch and day-use area ($10 fee per vehicle). The park is popular with anglers. Picnickers will enjoy a spectacular view of the West Shore with a 12-mile-wide expanse of Tahoe in between.
Though Virginia City, site of the 1860s Comstock gold- and silver-mining boom, is the major attraction, eastbound travelers will pass through Carson City, the capital of Nevada. If you have tykes in tow, consider a stop at the Children’s Museum of Northern Nevada (813 N. Carson St., Carson City, 775/884-2226, www.cmnn.org, 10am-4:30pm daily, children $5, parents free), where kids are not just allowed to touch the exhibits, they are encouraged to do so. There’s a walk-in kaleidoscope, a giant keyboard, and other fun stuff for ages 3-12.
Also in Carson City is the Nevada State Railroad Museum (2180 S. Carson St., 775/687-6953, www.nsrm-friends.org, 8:30am-4:30pm Fri.-Mon., $6 adults, children 17 and under free), which houses a collection of restored historic Virginia and Truckee Railroad cars and locomotives. Steam-train rides are offered in summer.
To reach Carson City from Spooner Summit, take U.S. 50 east for almost 13 miles. Turn north onto Carson Street (the junction with U.S. 295) and continue three miles into Carson City.
Nevada’s oldest permanent settlement, the town of Genoa (www.genoanv.com) was originally established in 1851 as the trading post Mormon Station. Today the tiny hamlet at the base of the Sierra Nevada is home to a handful of antique shops, art galleries, and bed-and-breakfast inns, plus Nevada’s oldest “thirst parlor.” The Genoa Bar (2282 Main St., Genoa, 775/782-3870, www.genoabarandsaloon.com) has been in business since 1853. Stopping for a drink in this Old West bar is a must, but be sure to obey the “No Horses Allowed” sign that hangs above the front door. A leopard-print bra that supposedly belonged to Raquel Welch dangles from the crumbling antlers of a mounted deer head. An old safe is jammed with more lingerie. Original “wanted” posters, a blazing woodstove, and a buffalo head mount round out the décor. Everything is coated with a thick layer of dust, but that won’t bother you after your first bacon Bloody Mary.
History lovers will enjoy a visit to the museum at Mormon Station, marked by a statue of Snowshoe Thompson with his 12-foot-long skis. The man who carried the mail and supplies across the Sierra Nevada through dozens of harsh winters was laid to rest in the Genoa Cemetery, just outside of town. Look for his grave, marked by a pair of wooden cross-country skis.
Genoa may be tiny, but there is plenty to do, including soaking in the six hot springs pools at David Walley’s Hot Springs (2001 Foothills Rd., Genoa, 775/783-0788, www.1862davidwalleysresort.com, 7:30am-9:30pm daily, day-use fee $50 per person).
To reach Genoa from Spooner Summit, take U.S. 50 east toward Carson City for about 10 miles. At U.S. 395, turn south and continue 1.5 miles, turning right onto Jack’s Valley Road. Drive south for about 8.5 miles; the Genoa Bar will be at the third stoplight on Jack’s Valley Road.
If you are curious about the West’s mining history, don’t miss a chance to visit the “living ghost town” of Virginia City (just east of U.S. 395 in Nevada), about a 50-minute drive from the lake (25 miles southeast of Reno and 15 miles northeast of Carson City). This once-thriving metropolis was the centerpiece of the Comstock Lode silver strike in 1859, which served as the main catalyst for the early development of the Lake Tahoe basin. In a period of just under two decades, the Comstock Lode produced roughly $400 million in silver and gold, which made it the biggest ore-producing area in the nation during that time. Many men became millionaires in Virginia City. Money from the mines helped to finance the Civil War and paid to build old San Francisco. Partly because of these great riches, Nevada was granted statehood in 1864.
Today, Virginia City, with its false-front buildings and wooden sidewalks, looks much like the Old West towns featured in a multitude of Hollywood movies. A bit of a tourist trap but fascinating nonetheless, the nation’s largest National Historic Landmark is visited by more than 1.5 million people per year. Visitors can ride an old steam train past abandoned mining sites, tour Victorian mansions, cruise through town on a horse-drawn stagecoach, drink sarsaparilla, gamble, or tour an underground mine inside the Ponderosa Saloon. Not surprisingly, T-shirts, candy, and assorted other souvenirs are available for purchase in almost every shop on C Street, the town’s main drag. Most Virginia City establishments are open for business 10am-5pm daily year-round; the saloons stay open later.
Kids and adults alike will enjoy a trip to Virginia City. A few highlights not to be missed include the Silver Queen Hotel and Wedding Chapel, which has a wall-size painting made up of more than 3,000 silver dollars; and the Delta Saloon and Casino, famous for its “Suicide Table,” where three of the casino’s previous owners reputedly killed themselves over debts incurred from lopsided poker games. The Fourth Ward School, erected in 1876, is now a museum. The historic Piper’s Opera House was built in 1885 and is still used for concerts and performances. The under-12 set will certainly want to take a ride on the restored Virginia and Truckee Railroad (775/847-0380, www.virginiatruckee.com, May-Oct., $12 adults, $5 children ages 5-12) from Virginia City to Gold Hill. Passengers can sit in open-air cars or in an enclosed caboose. During the 35-minute ride, the conductor tells stories about the history of the area and the bonanza of the Comstock mines. Trains depart Virginia City eight times a day 10:30am-5pm.
A short drive from Lake Tahoe, the town of Genoa is a step back in time.
Most visitors can see and do Virginia City in less than a day, but if you’d like to spend the night, several intriguing lodging options are available. The Cobb Mansion Bed and Breakfast (18 South A St., Virginia City, 877/847-9006, www.cobbmansion.com, $99-199) is an elegantly restored, three-story Victorian mansion (circa 1876) in the heart of town. It has six guest rooms, all with private baths, and each one is decked out to the nines in Victorian period furnishings. Every morning, a formal breakfast is served in the dining room.
A few blocks away, the B Street House Bed and Breakfast (58 North B St., Virginia City, 775/847-7231, www.bstreethouse.com, $109-149) is a great option for lovers of Victoriana. Three guest rooms are located upstairs in this 1875 Victorian, which had fallen to ruins until the current owners spent four years restoring it. In 2011, the building received a listing in the National Register of Historic Places. Breakfast at B Street is a lavish affair, and innkeeper Carolyn’s home-baked cookies are made fresh every afternoon.
Nevada’s oldest hotel, the 1859 Gold Hill Hotel (1542 Main St., Gold Hill, 775/847-0111, www.goldhillhotel.net, $60-225) is still in operation after a century and a half. It offers 20 rooms and guesthouses, plus a bookstore, saloon, and wonderful restaurant.
From Spooner Summit, take U.S. 50 east to Carson City, then continue east for another seven miles to the Highway 341 turnoff. Turn north and drive seven miles to Virginia City. For more information, contact the Virginia City Chamber of Commerce (www.virginiacity-nv.org) or Virginia City Convention and Tourism Authority (775/847-4386 or 800/718-7587, www.visitvirginiacitynv.com).
One of the most popular activities at Lake Tahoe is hiking. It’s no wonder, since the spectacular Sierra scenery inspires the urge to explore. Before you set out on the trail, make sure you are prepared with a few essentials, such as bottled water or some sort of water-filtering device, food, and a trail map. Because many of Tahoe’s trails have rocky, uneven surfaces, hiking boots are highly recommended. Sunscreen and/or a sun hat are musts at this high elevation, and you don’t want to be without mosquito repellent if the bugs are biting. Keep in mind that weather in the Sierra can change dramatically in a short period of time, so it’s always wise to carry a lightweight rain poncho or jacket and other clothing for layering.
For more information on the trails described, contact the Carson Ranger District of Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest (1536 Carson St., Carson City, 775/882-2766, www.fs.fed.us/htnf) or Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park (2005 Hwy. 28, Incline Village, 775/831-0494, www.parks.nv.gov).
The following hikes are listed from north to south along the east side of the lake.
Distance: 10 miles round-trip
Duration: 3-4 hours
Effort: Strenuous
Elevation change: 2,300 feet
Trailhead: Mount Rose
Directions: From Incline Village, take Hwy. 431 (Mount Rose Hwy.) north for 8 miles to the highway summit and the large trailhead parking area on the left, signed as Mount Rose Summit Welcome Plaza. The trail begins behind the restrooms.
Near the summit, the slopes of Mount Rose are dry and barren.
Hikers accustomed to exploring Yosemite and points farther south in the Sierra Nevada are always somewhat surprised at the lower elevations of the “big peaks” in the Tahoe area. Despite the magnitude of Lake Tahoe and its grand mountain scenery, only a few hikeable summits in the area top the 10,000-foot mark. Mount Rose is one of them, and at 10,778 feet, it is the undisputed monolith of Tahoe’s northeast shore. A good trail leads all the way to the top, making it a must on every Tahoe hiker’s itinerary. Mount Rose is a volcanic peak, and much of the route to the summit is treeless, waterless, and exposed, so be sure to pack along lots of extra water and sunscreen.
The trail begins at the large parking area just below the summit of the Mount Rose Highway. Take the trail from behind the restrooms and begin a moderate ascent on a shadeless slope carpeted with sagebrush, lupine, and mule’s ears. Views of Tahoe Meadows, far below, will inspire you to visit that spot on another day. After a mellow ascent of 1.5 miles, the trail descends through a hemlock forest, where evidence of long-ago logging operations can be seen, to a lush meadow highlighted by Galena Creek’s waterfall coursing down to its edge. In peak season, this meadow is filled with larkspur, paintbrush, lupine, and many other colorful flowers.
From the edge of the meadow, Mount Rose looks so close that you might assume you’ll be on top in no time. However, the majority of this hike’s 2,300 feet of elevation gain takes place in the next 2.6 miles, so the grade will surely rein in your ambitions. The trail makes its way steeply to a saddle west of the summit, where you go right for Mount Rose and another trail continues straight toward Big Meadows. You may be feeling a bit breathless, but you still have another 1.5 miles to the top, skirting along the broad shoulder of the peak. At first, low-growing whitebark pines provide a modicum of shade, but soon these disappear. Keep your eyes on the ground alongside the trail, and you may spot the wood-fruited evening primrose, a rare alpine plant with big yellow flowers on low-lying stems that grows only on the upper slopes of Mount Rose. The final 0.5 mile is a real butt-kicker, partly because of the high-elevation air and partly because the volcanic terrain is so open and exposed. But the view from the top is well worth the effort. On clear days, it is easy to pick out Mount Lassen nearly 100 miles to the north. The Sierra Buttes in Plumas National Forest can also be seen, as well as the desert lands surrounding Reno and Sparks, plus three major reservoirs—Prosser, Boca, and Stampede—and, of course, mighty Lake Tahoe. Low rock walls have been built on the summit to give hikers shelter from the frequent wind.
Distance: 1.3 miles round-trip
Duration: 1 hour
Effort: Easy
Elevation change: 40 feet
Trailhead: Tahoe Meadows/Tahoe Rim Trail
Directions: From Incline Village, take Hwy. 431 (Mount Rose Hwy.) north for 7.5 miles to the large parking area on the right (southeast) side of the highway. The trail begins behind the visitors center.
The Tahoe Meadows Whole Access Trail was designed for wheelchair users, but hikers using two feet will find it equally enjoyable. This wide, high-desert meadow is set at 8,870 feet in elevation, with Mount Rose towering 2,000 feet above to the north. The loop trail’s surface is smooth dirt, with nearly a dozen footbridges that were constructed to protect the multiple tiny creeks meandering through the wetlands. In early summer, wildflowers abound, including the pink tufts of pussypaws, bright yellow buttercups and marsh marigolds, and a variety of penstemon species. In August, pink and white elephant heads make an appearance. Although this trail is bordered by the busy Mount Rose Highway and the road noise never goes away, Tahoe Meadows somehow manages to retain a tranquil ambience that keeps visitors and locals alike coming back for more.
Distance: 4 miles round-trip
Duration: 2 hours
Effort: Moderate
Elevation change: 800 feet
Trailhead: Tahoe Meadows/Tahoe Rim Trail
Directions: From Incline Village, take Hwy. 431 (Mount Rose Hwy.) north for 7.5 miles to the large parking area on the right (southeast) side of the highway.
During the Tahoe wildflower season, which generally peaks in mid-July (although the timing varies greatly from year to year), there may be no better trail on the Nevada side of the lake than this one for admiring the blossoms. Some of the showiest flower species that thrive here are crimson columbine, mountain penstemon, and Sierra evening primrose.
The Ophir Creek Trail begins at Tahoe Meadows just below the summit of the Mount Rose Highway, then descends over the course of six miles to Davis Creek Park. Most people don’t travel the entire length of the trail, as it makes a daunting descent of 3,300 feet, requiring a strenuous return trip unless a car shuttle is arranged. Instead, a satisfying walk can be had just by hiking out and back for a couple of miles each way.
Begin by starting at the Tahoe Meadows Trailhead on the northeast end of Tahoe Meadows, hiking southwest across the meadow and then entering a lodgepole pine forest. You’ll pick up the Ophir Creek Trail just beyond a crossing of Ophir Creek, 0.7 mile from the start. The Tahoe Rim Trail heads right; you’ll go left. Once you are officially on the trail, which is the remains of an old road, you never stray far from the lovely creek’s side. If you hike about 2 miles, you will be treated to a superb overlook of the Washoe Valley and its lake, thousands of feet below. On warm summer days, hikers will often spot paragliders and hang gliders riding the thermal breezes over the valley. Note that this trail is also popular with mountain bikers, although many only travel it in one direction—downhill.
Distance: 2.6 miles round-trip
Duration: 1.5 hours
Effort: Moderate
Elevation change: 700 feet
Trailhead: Diamond Peak Ski Resort
Directions: From Hwy. 28 at Incline Village, turn north on Country Club Dr. and drive 1 mile to Ski Way. Turn right and follow Ski Way to its end at Diamond Peak Ski Resort.
The mid-mountain Snowflake Lodge is the destination of this short, view-filled hike from the base of Diamond Peak Ski Resort (775/832-1177, www.diamondpeak.com). Although the route to get there follows a ski-lift maintenance road, not a real hiking trail, it’s worth suffering through the exposed, 700-foot climb to reach Snowflake Lodge’s 4,000-square-foot sundeck and its horizon-stretching view of Lake Tahoe. The deck is covered with picnic tables, so don’t forget to pack your lunch. The road/trail starts at the ski resort’s base lodge and follows the dirt and gravel road alongside the Lodgepole quad chair.
Distance: 2 miles round-trip
Duration: 1 hour
Effort: Easy/moderate
Elevation change: 500 feet
Trailhead: Rd. 1601
Directions: From Hwy. 28 at Crystal Bay, turn north on Reservoir Dr. (just east of the Tahoe Biltmore casino). Drive 0.2 mile and turn right on Lakeview Dr. Continue 0.5 mile to the gated fire road on the left (Rd. 1601). If the gate is open, you can drive uphill 1 mile to the parking lot. Often the gate is locked and you must park in the small pullouts alongside Lakeview Dr., then walk up the fire road.
You can’t beat the Stateline Lookout Trail for an early-morning or sunset walk. Located at the site where an old fire lookout tower once stood, this 0.5-mile interpretive loop trail sits smack on the California-Nevada border at an elevation of 7,017 feet, offering a bird’s-eye view of Tahoe’s North and East Shores. The fire road that leads to the lookout site and its trail is most often closed, so the road is usually part of the hike, making this 0.5-mile hike a 2-mile hike. But no matter; it’s a pleasant walk up a fir- and pine-forested hillside.
When you reach the parking area for the interpretive trail, located by a large signboard, head out in either direction and start enjoying gorgeous high lake views from Lookout Point. A dozen interpretive panels explain about the North Shore’s logging history, the 1870s conflict over where in Lake Tahoe to set the California-Nevada boundary line, and the onset of the gambling and resort era on the North Shore. At one time, a Forest Service lookout person was stationed up here to spot fires. The small lookout building was known as “Hotel de Chipmunk.”
Distance: 3 miles round-trip
Duration: 1.5 hours
Effort: Easy
Elevation change: 300 feet
Trailhead: Hwy. 28
Directions: From Incline Village, drive 6 miles south on Hwy. 28 to a large paved parking lot on the right (lake) side of the highway (2.9 miles south of the Sand Harbor turnoff).
If you’ve become accustomed to all the private property that lines the North, West, and South Shores of Lake Tahoe, the amount of public land on Tahoe’s East Shore comes as a welcome surprise. Much of the East Shore’s sparkling shoreline and sandy beaches are accessible to anyone who is willing to walk, and no day-use or parking fees are required.
From the large Forest Service-managed parking lot, a wide trail descends just over a half mile (dropping 350 feet in elevation) to just above the water’s edge, then runs north and south along the shoreline. Heading right will take you to Chimney Beach, where the remains of an old stone chimney can be seen. Heading left will take you to Secret Harbor, with its numerous rocky coves. Despite the fact that hordes of visitors descend to this shoreline on warm summer days, there is plenty of room for everyone to spread out and find their own stretch of sand. Don’t forget your beach towel, and don’t be shocked if you pass by an occasional nude sunbather. Bathing trunks are optional here.
Distance: 3 miles round-trip
Duration: 1.5 hours
Effort: Easy/moderate
Elevation change: 600 feet
Trailhead: Slaughterhouse Canyon
Directions: From the junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 28, drive 2.4 miles north on Hwy. 28 to a pullout by a green metal gate on the left (lake) side of the highway. Park safely off the highway in the pullout.
Since Skunk Harbor is one of Lake Tahoe’s most picturesque coves, it’s hard to understand why its trailhead isn’t signed and visitor parking is so limited. But that’s reality at the Slaughterhouse Canyon Trailhead along Highway 28, and those factors, combined with the fact that the beach is a 1.5-mile hike from the highway, keep the crowd factor to a minimum.
The trail is an easy-to-follow dirt road that starts at the highway and heads downhill through a Jeffrey pine and fir forest. You’ll reach a junction 0.7 mile down the trail; the left fork heads to wildflower-filled Prey Meadows in Slaughterhouse Canyon, a must-see during the peak of the bloom. The right fork continues to Skunk Harbor on the shore of Lake Tahoe, a secluded beach where George Newhall built a stone house in 1923 as a wedding gift for his wife, Caroline. The Newhall House was used not as an actual home, but as their private family picnic site. George and Caroline lived across the lake at Rubicon Bay and would cruise by boat to Skunk Harbor for afternoon outings. Later the house became the property of George Whittell, the eccentric owner of Thunderbird Lodge, who used it as a guesthouse. Although the house is now boarded up and in disrepair, it’s a fascinating reminder of the glory days at Lake Tahoe. Meanwhile, just a few yards distant, the Skunk Harbor beach is a mix of coarse sand and rocks, and the shallow waters along the shore warm up quite nicely for swimming on summer days.
Distance: 2.1 miles round-trip
Duration: 1 hour
Effort: Easy
Elevation change: 50 feet
Trailhead: Spooner Lake
Directions: From the junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 28, drive 0.6 mile north on Hwy. 28 to the Spooner Lake/Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park entrance. A $10 day-use fee is charged Apr. 15-Oct. 15, $7 Oct. 16-Apr. 14.
Spooner Lake is an artificial water body on the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe that played an important role in the Comstock gold- and silver-mining boom. The lake served as a millpond and was part of a system of reservoirs, flumes, and pipelines that supplied lumber and water to the Virginia City and Gold Hill mines. Interpretive displays at the parking area detail this fascinating period in Tahoe’s history. At 7,000 feet in elevation, the 1.6-mile trail that circles Spooner Lake’s perimeter is snow-free much of the year, and when it is snow covered, it makes a fine track for snowshoeing or cross-country skiing.
From the day-use parking area, follow the trail near the restrooms downhill to the tranquil lake’s dam, 0.2 mile away. Cross the dam to start the loop, and you’ll wander among aspens and Jeffrey pines. Watch for large granite boulders that are marked by Native American morteros, or grinding holes. As you curve around the lakeshore, keep on the lookout for osprey (often seen diving into the lake for fish), killdeer, and even bald eagles. Binoculars are a handy accessory for this hike; several benches are conveniently placed in good spots for bird- and wildlife-watching. On the southeast side of the lake, a spur trail leads to the parking area at Spooner Summit. (Some people prefer to hike in 0.75 mile from this trailhead to avoid paying the state park day-use fee.) Fishing is permitted in Spooner Lake, but it is catch-and-release only. Because of the presence of leeches, swimming is a bad idea.
Distance: 9 miles round-trip
Duration: 5 hours
Elevation change: 700 feet
Trailhead: Spooner Lake
Directions: From the junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 28, drive 0.6 mile north on Hwy. 28 to the Spooner Lake/Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park entrance. A $10 day-use fee is charged Apr. 15-Oct. 15, $7 Oct. 16-Apr. 14.
The North Canyon Road to Marlette Lake is a favorite path of mountain bikers making their way to the start of the infamous Flume Trail, but hikers have their own trail to the beautiful lake—the North Canyon Trail, which takes off from North Canyon Road and travels 4 miles to the lake. Bikers stay on one trail, hikers stay on another trail—everybody is happy. It’s a toss-up whether it’s better to hike this trail in early summer (for wildflowers) or mid-autumn (for the quaking aspen fall color show). Both seasons are winners.
Begin the trip by following the wide path from near the parking lot restrooms toward Spooner Lake’s dam. Before reaching the dam, you’ll turn left (north) on North Canyon Road. Soon you’ll pass the right turnoff for Spooner Lake cabin, which is available for overnight rental, and the historic Spencer Cabin, which is sometimes used as a warming hut for skiers in the winter. At 0.7 mile from your start, you’ll meet up with the North Canyon Trail. Here you leave the dirt road and follow the narrower, hikers-only trail. The well-built path stays along the west bank of North Canyon Creek and is a gentle climb almost all the way until the last 0.5 mile, where it junctions with a trail coming up on the left from Chimney Beach and then drops steeply to the lake’s southern shore. The closer you get to the lake, the denser the stands of aspens. Once you arrive, you can wander along the shoreline to find the best spots for picnicking and swimming.
Those with extra energy to burn can take the 1.2-mile trail along the lake’s east shore to Marlette Overlook, which provides breathtaking views looking west over Marlette Lake and Lake Tahoe. Note that fishing is not permitted in the lake because it serves as a fish hatchery for the state of Nevada. Given that the lake also supplies drinking water via a flume to Carson City and Virginia City, it’s surprising that swimming is permitted here, but it is.
Distance: 10.6 miles round-trip
Duration: 5-6 hours
Effort: Moderate/strenuous
Elevation change: 2,200 feet
Trailhead: Spooner Summit/Tahoe Rim Trail
Directions: From the junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 28, drive 0.8 mile east on U.S. 50 to Spooner Summit and the parking area on the right (south) side.
This hike on a portion of the Tahoe Rim Trail takes you to one of the most view-filled peaks in the Carson Range. Before you go, remember that this trail is in dry Nevada, not the much wetter mountains on the California side of Lake Tahoe, so you need to carry plenty of water with you (there are no streams or springs along the trail). For early-season hikers, this is good news—South Camp Peak will be snow-free a month earlier than other summits around the lake. It is usually accessible by June.
The trail begins with an ascent over open slopes, then delves into a mixed conifer forest and delivers you to your first wide views at 1.5 miles, where a short spur trail leads to a high knoll. Snap a few pictures here, then continue onward. Much of the trail is smooth, hard-packed sand, making it a favorite area for mountain bikers. Two miles farther, the trail crosses Genoa Peak Road amid a heavily logged area. Catch your breath here before attacking the final 1.5-mile, 800-foot ascent to the top of South Camp Peak, mostly over densely forested slopes. The 8,818-foot peak has a broad, flat summit that seems to go on forever. You’ll arrive on the northwest edge of it; which spot you decide to call the tippy-top is up to you. Views are excellent from just about everywhere along the nearly level, open plateau. Dozens of landmarks are easy to spot, including nearby Genoa Peak with its telltale radio towers, Mount Rose, Fallen Leaf Lake, Emerald Bay, Pyramid Peak, Freel Peak, Mount Tallac, and the tall buildings of the Stateline casinos.
The Nevada side of the lake is a favorite for swimmers and sunbathers thanks to its abundance of undeveloped shoreline and shallow, relatively warm water. On the warmest days of July and August, Tahoe’s water temperature within a few feet of the East Shore can be as high as the 70s—as much as 20 degrees warmer than at many other points in the lake. Beachgoers can choose between drive-in, fee-required beaches with picnic tables, restrooms, and other facilities, and secluded hike-in beaches, including some that are clothing-optional. Residents and visitors staying at the condominium resorts in Incline Village have guest access to two developed beaches, Burnt Cedar and Incline Beach, each managed by the Incline Village General Improvement District (775/832-1310).
Those who are staying elsewhere on the East Shore can head for the developed beach at Sand Harbor (Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park, 2005 Hwy. 28, 775/831-0494, www.parks.nv.gov, $12 parking), three miles south of Incline Village. This is one of Lake Tahoe’s most scenic beaches, a white crescent of sand framed by giant rounded boulders. The beach has a concession stand, a nature trail, and a separate cove for snorkeling and scuba diving. Beach patrol lifeguards are on duty Memorial Day-Labor Day.
One of Tahoe’s best stretches of sand can be found at Sand Harbor.
A vast majority of beachgoers prefer the no-fee option of finding their own beach paradise in the stretch of shoreline immediately south of Incline Village, known as Hidden Beach. This land is part of Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park, but there is no official parking area. Beachgoers must park in narrow pullouts alongside Highway 28 and then walk a short distance to the lake. Be sure to obey all No Parking signs and carry out any trash with you. Because these beaches are state owned, dogs are not permitted.
South of Sand Harbor and north of Spooner Summit are more no-fee, hike-in beaches. The best parking and access is at the Forest Service-run Chimney Beach parking lot, 2.9 miles south of Sand Harbor on Highway 28 (although many people also park in pullouts alongside the highway). From the large parking lot, a downhill walk of 0.6 mile is required to reach the lakeshore. From there you can follow trails to the north or south to find your special spot. Walking north about a quarter mile will bring you to the namesake stone chimney at Chimney Beach. Walking south leads you to Secret Cove and Secret Harbor. At either beach, don’t be surprised if you run into sunbathers wearing nothing but their birthday suits. Leashed dogs are permitted on these Forest Service beaches.
Farthest to the south is Skunk Harbor beach, which requires the longest hike to reach (1.2 miles one-way). The trailhead is located 2.4 miles north of Spooner Summit on Highway 28. The shoreline here is composed of coarse gravel, compared to the sandier beaches to the north. Dogs are permitted on this beach, and visitors can take a look at the exterior of the Newhall House, a stone cottage perched on the shoreline that was built in 1923.
Skinny-tire riders who want to rack up some road mileage have a wealth of routes to choose from in the Carson City/Carson Valley area, including a 50-mile loop tour that cruises through Virginia City. A great source for information on Nevada road biking is www.bicyclenevada.com. Bike rentals and equipment are available in Incline Village at Village Ski Loft and Bicycles (800 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, 775/831-3537, http://villageskiloft.com, 8am-6pm daily).
Those seeking an easy, scenic ride on the East Shore should head for the Lakeshore Bike Path in Incline Village. This mostly level, paved trail connects with Highway 28 on both ends, and its entire one-way length is only three miles, but there are numerous mega-mansions to ogle along the way. Parking is easiest at the west end of the trail at the junction of Highway 28 and Lakeshore Drive (0.5 mile west of the Hwy. 431/Hwy. 28 junction). The trail parallels Lakeshore Drive, crossing it only once, until its terminus where it meets Highway 28 again, across from the old Ponderosa Ranch.
Proceeding directly from the mild to the wild, on the opposite end of the biking spectrum is the Flume Trail. Probably the most famous mountain-biking trail in the West, the Flume Trail was built on the grade of an old square-box logging flume that carried water and timber from Lake Tahoe to the silver mines of Virginia City in the late 1800s. The flume’s route was carved into the side of the precipitous slope above Lake Tahoe’s East Shore. Good bike-handling skills are important here, as the east side of the trail is lined with car-size boulders, and the west side has near-vertical drop-offs of up to 1,600 feet. Because the trail follows the route of the old flume, it is almost level—it drops only 40 feet per mile—so your cardiovascular system won’t be working hard, just your nervous system. If the trail gets too hairy for you, there is no crime in stopping for a minute, or getting off your bike and walking. Plenty of riders do so, especially since the lake views are so breathtaking that you don’t want to spin by too fast.
The Flume Trail can be ridden in different ways. The most common route is to start at Spooner Lake State Park, off Highway 28 just north of its junction with U.S. 50. Follow the trail east from the parking area to just before Spooner Lake’s dam; then turn left and follow the wide dirt road toward Marlette Lake. The road travels north alongside North Canyon Creek through increasingly dense aspen groves (gorgeous fall colors can be seen here in late Sept.-early Oct.). The grade gets progressively steeper during the first 4 miles, then in the last mile you drop steeply to the shore of Marlette Lake. Plenty of beginning and intermediate riders just turn around here for a 10-mile round-trip with about 1,100 feet of elevation gain. Those heading for the Flume Trail go left at a signed fork at the lakeshore, follow a dirt road along the water’s edge for another mile, and then are deposited on the Flume Trail’s famous single-track.
After almost five adrenaline-pumping miles, the trail forks again, and most riders bear left on Tunnel Creek Road and descend via the sandy, dusty fire road to Incline Village, dropping 1,600 feet in only 2.5 miles. Some riders who have made it through the entire Flume Trail without a mishap manage to lose control on this final descent, so use caution. If you haven’t arranged shuttle transportation, it’s a 10-mile ride back to Spooner Lake on a narrow stretch of Highway 28. If a shuttle is waiting for you, your ride will be about 13 miles one-way, with 1,100 feet of elevation gain and 2,000 feet of loss. Most people take about 3-4 hours to complete the one-way Flume trip from Spooner Lake to Incline Village.
There are two options for extending the Flume Trail ride into a longer loop, but both are intended for very strong and experienced riders only. For the first loop option, instead of descending via Tunnel Creek Road, stay right at the junction and keep riding along the ridge for 1.3 miles to another segment of the Flume Trail, called Red House Flume. A right turn on Red House Flume will connect you to a series of fire roads that will bring you back above Marlette Lake. All junctions along the route are well signed, and free maps are available at the Spooner Lake Trailhead. From Marlette Lake, just retrace your tire treads back to Spooner Lake. The total loop ride is about 24 miles and very challenging, with a total 2,600-foot elevation gain.
The second option is to loop back via the Tahoe Rim Trail. Go right on Tunnel Creek Road and follow it uphill for only 0.5 mile to the Twin Lakes junction, then follow the Rim Trail south for 5 miles to Hobart/Marlette Road, above Marlette Lake. A right turn here will bring you back to Marlette Lake and Spooner Lake. The total loop ride is 22 miles with 2,000 feet of elevation gain.
For those who don’t have patient friends who are willing to pick them up, Flume Trail Bikes (1115 Tunnel Creek Rd., Incline Village, 775/298-2501, www.flumetrailtahoe.com, daily mid-May-Nov.), located at the trail’s north end at Tunnel Creek Café, runs a mountain-bike shuttle service. These are the same nice folks who used to run the mountain biking concession at Spooner Lake State Park. Owner Max Jones is a two-time National Mountain Bike Champion and member of the Mountain Bike Hall of Fame; he helped to clear and open the Flume Trail in 1983. He and wife Patti McMullan understand the mountain biking business better than anyone, so they take great care of their customers. They charge $15 for a one-way shuttle, or $10 if you rent one of their bikes. Bike rentals are $60-85 per day. If you have to wait a few minutes for the shuttle, you can sit on the porch of Tunnel Creek Café and eat one of their fantastic paninis or breakfast burritos.
Beware of landslides and steep drop-offs on the Flume Trail.
Bike rentals and shuttle service are also available for similar rates at the concession at Spooner Lake, which is now run by Zephyr Cove Resort (775/749-1120, www.zephyrcove.com).
A great option for a ride with eye-candy views is the Tahoe Rim Trail section that starts at Tahoe Meadows, aka Sheep Camp. The trailhead is at 8,700 feet, so you start up high, and then you climb a couple hundred feet higher before you begin to contour over to Tunnel Creek Road. The next several miles include fantastic views of the lake and many rocky stairsteps, so good technical skills are helpful here. At Tunnel Creek Road, many riders descend 3 miles down the dirt road to Tunnel Creek Café, where Flume Trail Bikes (775/298-2501, www.flumetrailtahoe.com) offers shuttle service for a 12-mile one-way trip. But there are plenty of other options at the Tunnel Creek junction if you want to take a longer ride.
A popular mountain-biking destination on the East Shore is the 8,818-foot summit of South Camp Peak, accessible from the Tahoe Rim Trail Trailhead just east of Spooner Summit on U.S. 50. Although the view of the Lake Tahoe basin at the summit is grand, getting there is half the fun, as you pedal past wildflower-covered slopes and through groves of quaking aspen. The trail is smooth, mostly hard-packed sand all the way, and the grade is fairly moderate for the first 3.8 miles until you near the top, where it steepens considerably. The last 1.5 miles are a serious challenge, with an 800-foot elevation gain. Total mileage out and back to South Camp Peak is 10.6 miles.
The East Shore of Lake Tahoe is one of the loveliest areas for kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding, with miles of pristine, development-free shoreline. Many paddlers put in at Sand Harbor (Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park, 2005 Hwy. 28, 775/831-0494, www.parks.nv.gov, $20 launch fee) and then cruise south along a string of secluded coves and white-sand and boulder-strewn beaches. There are plenty of spots where you can pull up on shore for rest stops, swimming, and picnicking, but look carefully before you land; occasional East Shore beachgoers prefer to sunbathe au naturel. You may get an impromptu anatomy lesson. Morning is usually the best time to paddle along the East Shore, before the west winds start blowing across the lake in the afternoon. Another popular put-in spot is at Cave Rock, farther south at Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park ($14-17 launch fee).
Kayakers with bigger ambitions should check out the Lake Tahoe Water Trail map ($12, 503/385-8023, www.adventuremaps.net), which shows available boat launches, campsites, lodging, dining, and more for all 72 miles of lake shoreline. Visit the website of the Lake Tahoe Water Trail Committee (www.laketahoewatertrail.org) for information on trip planning, Tahoe paddling events, and the local kayaking community.
Kayakers pull up on the boulders that surround Sand Harbor.
Kayak and paddleboard rentals at Sand Harbor are available by advance reservation through Sand Harbor Rentals (530/581-4336, www.sandharborrentals.com, $75 all-day rental for single kayaks, $95 all day for double kayaks, and $75 all day for paddleboards). A variety of rentals, lesson packages, and guided tours are available, including the popular sunset kayak tour ($65 per person) and the introduction to paddleboarding clinic ($40 per person).
All types of powerboats and personal watercraft can be rented at Action Watersports (on the beach behind the Hyatt’s Lone Eagle Grille, 967 Lakeshore Blvd., Incline Village, 775/831-4386, www.awsincline.com). They also offer daily two-hour sailing cruises aboard the 55-foot catamaran Sierra Cloud ($65 adults, $35 children).
If you brought your own boat or personal watercraft to Lake Tahoe and just need a boat ramp where you can put it in the water, you can do so on the East Shore at Cave Rock (775/831-0494) or Sand Harbor (775/831-0494).
For an old-fashioned indoor game, consider knocking over a few pins at Bowl Incline (920 Southwood Blvd., Incline Village, 775/831-1900, 11am-midnight daily). In addition to the bowling lanes, there is a video arcade, billiards, video poker, darts, and the like. If you are concerned about the health of your kids’ lungs in cigarette-happy Nevada, the bowling alley is smoke-free on Sunday. And if it’s winter and you or your kids are longing for a round of golf, try out Bowl Incline’s full-swing golf simulator, which uses real balls and clubs.
The steep shoreline and rocky shoals at Cave Rock ($10 day-use fee per vehicle) create one of the few places in Lake Tahoe where shore anglers have half a chance of catching fish, especially rainbow trout and occasionally brown trout. Most shore anglers try their luck with worms, spinners, marshmallows, or salmon eggs. Two launch ramps at the site lead to deep water close to shore. Another spot on the East Shore that is popular with shoreline anglers is the rocky shoreline at Sand Harbor ($12 day-use fee per vehicle). Both Sand Harbor and Cave Rock are under the jurisdiction of Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park (2005 Hwy. 28, 775/831-0494, www.parks.nv.gov).
On the other end of the fishing spectrum, fly fishers enjoy catch-and-release fishing at Spooner Lake for rainbow, brown, and brook trout. Only artificial lures and single barbless hooks are permitted.
If you need to purchase a fishing license or buy tackle or equipment, try Ace Hardware (910 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Incline Village, 775/831-2020).
Incline Village has not one but two excellent golf courses—the Championship Course (955 Fairway Blvd., Incline Village, 775/832-1146 or 866/925-4653, www.golfincline.com) and the Mountain Course (690 Wilson Way, Incline Village, 775/832-1150 or 866/925-4653, www.golfincline.com). Designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr. and consistently ranked as one of the top 10 public courses in the country, the Mountain Course is an 18-hole, par 58 maze of boulders, pines, and meandering streams that demands accurate hitting. The midlength course (3,500 yards) is completely natural with no artificial landscaping and is a certified Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary. The course usually plays quickly, but the lake views may slow you down. Rates are a reasonable $75 (twilight rates are $45).
The Championship Course is an 18-hole, par 72, lake-view beauty that was designed by the senior Robert Trent Jones. The course recently underwent a two-year, multimillion-dollar renovation orchestrated by architect Kyle Phillips. Accuracy and distance are required for successful play, with fairways surrounded by ponderosa pines, strategically placed bunkers, meandering streams, and small greens. Course length is 7,100 yards from the back tees. Green fees are $179 (twilight rates are $95). The course clubhouse, The Chateau, was completely redesigned as well and now features The Grille, a lunch spot for hungry golfers.
Farther from the lake, three more courses are found between Incline Village and Reno: Lake Ridge Golf Course (775/825-2200, www.lakeridgegolf.com), Northgate Golf Club (775/747-7577), and Wolf Run Golf Club (775/851-3301, www.wolfrungolfclub.com).
In the Carson Valley area of Nevada, about one hour from the lakeshore, are a consortium of courses known as the Divine Nine (www.divine9.com): The Golf Club at Genoa Lakes, Genoa Lakes Golf Resort, Silver Oak Golf Club, Sunridge Golf Club, Eagle Valley East, Eagle Valley West, Dayton Valley Golf Club, Carson Valley Golf Course, and Empire Ranch Golf Course. The Nine’s total 171 holes of golf encompass 70,000 yards of terrain—enough to keep any golfer busy for more than a week. Golf packages and special discounts are available for golfers who want to play a majority of the courses.
Cave Rock was closed to climbing in 2003 due to its importance as a Native American cultural site. However, several other rocks on the East Shore are suitable for intermediate climbers, including Shakespeare Rock and Trippy Rock. Shakespeare Rock towers 400 feet above U.S. 50, 0.25 mile north of the Glenbrook turnoff (on the east side of the highway). Trippy Rock is located five miles north of Incline Village on Highway 431. For more information on these sites, contact the Carson Ranger District of Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest (775/882-2766).
The East Shore of the lake sports two major ski resorts: Mount Rose and Diamond Peak, both just a few miles from Incline Village. Although lift tickets are surprisingly reasonable at both resorts (in fact, midweek deals at Mount Rose are a steal), bargain hunters should be sure to check the website Snowbomb (www.snowbomb.com), which frequently offers vouchers for discounted tickets for these two resorts, plus discounts at local lodgings, ski shops, and restaurants. If you have a Costco (www.costco.com) store near your hometown, you can sometimes buy discounted lift tickets there.
To save time and money by renting equipment before you arrive at the slopes, head to Village Ski Loft (800 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, 775/831-3537) in Incline Village.
Mount Rose Ski Area (22222 Hwy. 431/Mount Rose Hwy., 11 miles northeast of Incline Village, 775/849-0704 or 800/754-7673, www.skirose.com, 9am-4pm daily, Zephyr Chair opens at 8:30am) has the highest base elevation of any resort at Lake Tahoe (7,900 feet), making its slopes the last place where the snow turns to slush on warm spring days. It’s also known for having few, if any, lift lines. Total skiable area at the resort is 1,200-plus acres; the longest vertical drop is 1,800 feet. Getting to the summit (9,700 feet) takes only 3.5 minutes thanks to a super-speedy lift system—an important feature since access to all intermediate and advanced runs is from the top. A total of 60-plus trails, the longest measuring in at 2.5 miles, are serviced by seven lifts. The awesome views from the mountain’s slopes take in not just Lake Tahoe to the south but also the Washoe Valley, the Virginia Hills, Reno, and the Nevada desert to the east. Riders and tricksters can jib all day at five terrain parks and two half-pipes.
a day on the slopes of Mount Rose
Mount Rose added a large section to its skiable terrain, an area of steep, ungroomed powder called The Chutes. The Chutes has its own chairlift, the Blazing Zephyr, and 16 official double-black-diamond runs. Another 200 acres on the back side of Mount Rose have also been made legal.
Despite the newfound popularity of the steep and deep Chutes, this resort is not just for envelope pushers. Plenty of kids learn to ski or ride at Rosebuds Ski and Snowboard Camp. And adult beginners can choose from first-timer instruction, rookie classes, and intermediate lessons. With rental equipment and lift tickets, lesson packages cost only $59-89 for adults.
Weekend lift ticket prices at Mount Rose are usually lower than at comparable Tahoe resorts, and deep discounts happen almost every weekday. Full-day tickets are $89 adults, $69 teens 13-17 and seniors 65-plus, $47 children ages 6-12, and $10 for children 5 and under, but many skiers take advantage of Mount Rose’s regular weekly bargains, like “Two for Tuesday,” when you can buy two adult tickets for the price of one, and “Ladies Day Thursdays,” when women receive a full-day ticket for less than half price, plus free lesson clinics. Always buy your tickets on the Web in advance of your trip to save a few bucks.
If you are staying in Reno, on Fridays and Saturdays you can take the ski shuttle to Mount Rose. The shuttle runs from major Reno hotels (Grand Sierra Resort, Sands, Silver Legacy, Eldorado, Circus Circus, Atlantis) twice each morning to Mount Rose Ski Area, a 30-minute drive. Reservations are recommended (866/743-7673, www.tahoeskishuttle.net). The fare is $19 round-trip, but combined lift ticket-and-shuttle packages are available at discounted rates.
The intimate and family-oriented Diamond Peak Ski Resort (1219 Ski Way, Incline Village, 775/832-1177, www.diamondpeak.com, 9am-4pm daily) is located just 1.5 miles from downtown Incline Village. Its 30 runs access 655 skiable acres. The longest run is 2.5 miles, with a vertical drop of 1,840 feet. The resort’s summit elevation (8,540 feet) is a little higher than the base elevation at Mount Rose. With average snowfall of only about 350 inches, they often have to make snow, but they are equipped for it. Like at Mount Rose, the vistas from the chairlifts and the slopes take in Lake Tahoe and a wide expanse of Nevada desert. Diamond Peak may not have the most varied and challenging slopes around, but they are among the most scenic; be sure to check out the view from Crystal Ridge. What the resort doesn’t have in acreage, it compensates for with its breathtaking vistas.
Beginners will be happy here, as the resort has plenty of affordable lessons options. Kids as young as three can attend ski school, and kids as young as four can take snowboarding lessons. A total of six chairlifts service the resort, and three operate with a “Launch Pad” conveyor belt system to make loading and unloading easier. Boarders can bust air at Diamond Peak’s freestyle terrain park and superpipe, or if they want to improve their skills, sign up for two- or four-hour freestyle snowboarding clinics. Those seeking more advanced terrain should head to Solitude Canyon.
Lift tickets here are one of the best bargains at Tahoe: All-day tickets for adults are $64, youth 13-23 and seniors 65-69 are $49, children 7-12 and seniors 70-79 are $24, and seniors 80-plus and kids 6 and under are free. Discounted family packages for one or two adults and one or more children are also available.
On most Saturday nights in February and March, Diamond Peak hosts “Last Tracks” starting at 4pm. With advance reservations and a separate entry fee (currently $34), skiers and riders get to taste fine wines and nosh on appetizers at the mid-mountain Snowflake Lodge, a spot that is well loved for its horizon-stretching views of Lake Tahoe. Afterwards, as the sun sinks behind the West Shore, guests cruise down a freshly groomed intermediate run to the bottom.
Free shuttle service (www.diamondpeak.com) to the slopes is available from points in Kings Beach, Crystal Bay, and Incline Village.
Cross-country skiers looking for a no-cost place to kick and glide can head to Tahoe Meadows, on the southeast side of Highway 431/Mount Rose Highway, just below Mount Rose Summit (7.5 miles from Incline Village). This is a great place for moonlight skiing.
On the East Shore, there are three places where you can bring your own sleds, tubes, saucers, or garbage-can lids and slide down snow-covered slopes. Tahoe Meadows (7.5 miles north of Incline Village on Hwy. 431/Mount Rose Hwy.) has a few mellow hills for young sledders and abundant spots to build snowmen or make snow angels. Incline Village Snow Play Area (on Fairway Blvd. next to the Chateau Clubhouse, at the Championship Course driving range) has a gentle hill for sledding. The Spooner Summit Snow Play Area (junction of Hwy. 28 and U.S. 50), 12 miles north of Stateline and 12 miles south of Incline Village, has a variety of hills ranging from mild to very steep. There is no fee for the use of any of these areas.
Unless your idea of nightlife is cross-country skiing under a full moon, the only place to find any late-evening action on the East Shore is at the Crystal Bay and Incline Village casinos. The king of them all is the Cal-Neva Resort (2 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Crystal Bay, 775/832-4000 or 800/225-6382, www.calnevaresort.com), which is currently closed for renovations but should reopen in summer 2016. Once owned by singer Frank Sinatra, the Cal-Neva has a large indoor showroom for live entertainment, a wedding chapel, and a European-style health spa, as well as all the usual casino and sports-book offerings. Right next door is the Crystal Bay Casino (14 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Crystal Bay, 775/833-6333, www.crystalbaycasino.com), which offers live music, dancing, live entertainment at the Stage Lounge and the Crown Room, the Crystal Bay Steak and Lobster House, and a full-service sports book featuring 30 plasma TVs. In the summer months, Crystal Bay Club also showcases performers at its 1,900-seat rooftop stage.
Across the street, the Tahoe Biltmore Casino (5 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Crystal Bay, 775/831-0660 or 800/245-8667, www.tahoebiltmore.com) has a sports book, dancing, and live entertainment in an old-fashioned nightclub atmosphere at the Breeze Nightclub. At Jim Kelly’s Nugget (20 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Crystal Bay, 775/831-0455), the beer bar is where the action is in summer. If you are diligent, you can taste all 101 beers on the menu and be inducted into the Nugget Beer Drinkers Hall of Fame (you get a T-shirt and a plaque).
Down the road in Incline Village, the Fantasy Forest casino and sports book at the four-diamond Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe (Country Club Dr. at Lakeshore Dr., Incline Village, 775/832-1234 or 800/327-3910, www.hyatt.com) is somewhat more refined. If you get tired of playing keno or betting on football, you can get a massage at the resort’s 20,000-square-foot Stillwater Spa.
If you are looking for more passive entertainment, check out the evening’s offerings at Incline Village Cinema (901 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Incline Village, 775/546-5951).
The East Shore’s, and possibly the entire Tahoe basin’s, biggest and classiest annual event is the S Lake Tahoe Shakespeare Festival (800/747-4697, www.laketahoeshakespeare.com, $15-84), which features two or more of Shakespeare’s plays performed at Sand Harbor’s natural outdoor amphitheater, which overlooks the lake. Over the course of the monthlong festival, about 30,000 ticket holders bring their own picnic dinner (or buy one from one of several food vendors) and wiggle their toes in the sand while watching professional actors perform one of the Bard’s comedies or tragedies. The festival, which has been taking place at Lake Tahoe every mid-July-mid-August for some 40 years, is a hit with people of all ages. Purchase tickets in advance, especially if you want to see the show on popular full-moon nights, when it’s hard to take your eyes off the moonlight reflecting on the lake’s surface in order to watch the play.
The Lake Tahoe Shakespeare Festival takes place outdoors at Sand Harbor.
Because of the general lack of commercial enterprises on the East Shore, except for the Incline Village area, shoppers won’t have much browsing to do unless they head to Truckee, Tahoe City, Stateline, or South Lake Tahoe. However, Incline Village does have a small shopping center at Christmas Tree Village (on Hwy. 28 just west of Village Blvd.), which has a handful of interesting specialty shops: home design, jewelry, and art. A block away is the Raley’s Shopping Center (on Hwy. 28 just east of Village Blvd.), where you can shop for practical items at Ace Hardware and Raley’s Supermarket. The Village Center (Mays Blvd. at Southwood) has a half-dozen shops of an equally pedestrian nature, including a post office.
Straddling the California-Nevada border on the North Shore, S Cal-Neva Resort, Spa, and Casino (2 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Crystal Bay, 775/832-4000 or 800/225-6382, www.calnevaresort.com, $49-239) enjoys a spectacular lakeside setting at Crystal Point and houses the oldest operating casino in the United States. At press time, it was currently undergoing major renovations and is expected to reopen in summer 2016.
The hotel was built in 1937 and owned for some years by singer Frank Sinatra. In the 1960s, Old Blue Eyes and his cronies Sammy Davis Jr., Dean Martin, and Marilyn Monroe would pal around here when they wanted to flee the hectic L.A. celebrity lifestyle. Because of its state-line location, the Cal-Neva enjoys an odd twist of geography. Guests can swim from California to Nevada, and back again, in the resort’s outdoor pool. All of its 220 guest rooms have lake views, but the best vistas are seen from the pricier rooms on the 7th, 8th, and 9th floors. A few of the “celebrity cabins” have nice views, too. Try to get Marilyn Monroe’s cabin if it’s available; the lake view is awesome. If you’ve won a small fortune at the casino, reserve a stay in one of the suites with living rooms and balconies, or the chalets with fireplaces. If you enjoy ghost stories, be sure to take the “tunnel tour,” which is usually offered on Friday and Saturday nights.
For bargain lodging near Incline Village and Crystal Bay, pack your earplugs and book one of the 113 rooms at the Tahoe Biltmore (5 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Crystal Bay, 775/831-0660 or 800/245-8667, www.tahoebiltmore.com, $39-179). The resort shows its age, but it’s clean and serviceable. Two accommodations are offered: rooms in the main hotel and “cottage” rooms. The cottage rooms are slightly lower priced and are grouped together with about six units per building. They are much larger than many of the hotel rooms, but unfortunately their walls are paper-thin. Light sleepers may hear people coming and going from the casino all night. If you are planning a summer stay, be forewarned that the Biltmore has no air-conditioning, and the rooms can be stuffy. Dogs are allowed in some of the cottages for an additional fee per night. In the winter months, check for stay-and-ski package deals, or Sunday-Wednesday deals dropping as low as $49 for two nights. The Biltmore is far and away the best deal in town, but remember, you get what you pay for.
Located within a few miles of the Mount Rose and Diamond Peak ski areas, and with a secure ski storage area and ski rental shop on the premises, the four-diamond S Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe Resort (111 Country Club Dr., Incline Village, 775/832-1234, www.laketahoehyatt.com, $199-505) caters to the snow bunny crowd. The motto at this megaresort should be “but wait, there’s more.” The 1920s-era hotel features the Grand Lodge Casino, a heated pool that has both an indoor and an outdoor section (they call it a “year-round swimming oasis”), a fitness club, and the 20,000-square-foot Stillwater Spa—Tahoe’s largest day spa, offering all the latest feel-good treatments. If you are celebrating something special with your sweetie, reserve an hour’s worth of pampering in the “couples’ massage suite,” which has its own fireplace. The Hyatt’s 449 rooms come with all the usual four-star hotel amenities, but the six suites on the upper floors of the 12-story tower are far superior, as you might expect. For the most privacy, book one of the 24 one- and two-bedroom lakefront cottages with fireplaces and private decks (from $500), which have designer carpets, 42-inch flat-screen televisions, chenille sofas, and Italian leather chairs.
Several restaurants feed the hungry, including the Lone Eagle Grille (775/886-6899 or 775/832-1234, www.loneeaglegrille.com, lunch 11:30am-3pm Mon.-Sat., dinner 5:30pm-9pm Sun.-Thurs., 5:30pm-9:30pm Fri.-Sat., brunch 10am-3pm Sun., $34-59) with its massive rock fireplaces, open-beamed ceiling, and enviable lake view. Don’t miss the wonderful breakfast buffet at the resort’s Sierra Café. Forget skiing; you may never want to leave this place.
If you really want to stay here but don’t think you can afford it, check out their midweek specials in winter. A typical deal is two lift tickets at Diamond Peak and a room for two for about $350.
Located near the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe Resort, the S Hyatt High Sierra Lodge (989 Incline Way, Incline Village, 775/832-0220, www.hyatt.com, $275-700) is an upscale time-share resort with 60 two-bedroom condominiums for rent. Like at the neighboring Hyatt, the lake views are incredible. The condos can sleep 4-6 people and have private balconies, gas fireplaces, fully equipped kitchens, and master bedroom suites with king beds. Guests can take advantage of concierge service, babysitting referrals, and other typical resort perks, including use of a 500-foot private beach. If you don’t want to cook, you can walk to the neighboring Hyatt’s three restaurants.
One mile outside downtown Incline Village, the unpretentious Club Tahoe Resort (914 Northwoods Blvd., Incline Village, 775/831-5750 or 800/527-5154, www.clubtahoe.com, $199-250) rents two-bedroom condos for a real bargain compared to other places in the area. Affordable stay-and-ski packages are available, too. The units are more than 1,000 square feet in size and can easily sleep six people in a master bedroom, smaller second bedroom, and upstairs loft area. Rental units have a full kitchen, two bathrooms, a fireplace, washer/dryer, two televisions, and everything else you’d expect. There’s nothing fancy about this place, but for an affordable family or small-group vacation, it works just fine.
The no-frills Parkside Inn at Incline (1003 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Incline Village, 775/831-1052 or 800/824-6391, www.innatincline.com, $69-199) is just the ticket for skiers who don’t have stacks of extra cash under their mattresses. The 38 rooms are set in a two-story motel-style building. The rooms are large, basic, and clean, and you can’t ask for more than that at this price. Guests have access to an indoor pool, sauna, and hot tub. A continental breakfast is served on weekends only (daily during peak season) in the common room. Even though this is Nevada, the Inn at Incline is a completely nonsmoking property. Stay-and-ski packages are quite affordable. Diamond Peak Ski Resort is only a mile away.
Lodging options in the Incline Village area are fairly limited, so vacation home rentals take up the lodging slack. Whether you want a condo, a cabin, or a luxury home to rent, one of these three companies can find it for you from the hundreds of vacation properties available in the area: Incline Vacation Rentals (901 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Incline Village, 800/831-3304, www.inclinevacations.com), Vacation Station (930 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Incline Village, 800/841-7443, www.vacationstation.com), and Incline at Tahoe Realty (811 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Incline Village, 888/686-5253, www.inclineattahoe.com).
Located at 9,300 feet in elevation is the small, 24-site Mount Rose Campground (Hwy. 431, 775/882-2766, 877/444-6777 or www.recreation.gov for reservations, June-Sept., $20), 7.5 miles north of Incline Village. Run by the Forest Service, the camp has restrooms, water, and a dump station, and can accommodate small trailers and RVs up to 16 feet long. If you are planning to climb to the summit of 10,778-foot Mount Rose, this is a great place to camp; the trailhead is right across the highway. A major trailhead for the Tahoe Rim Trail is nearby at Tahoe Meadows.
For those who don’t mind hiking or biking for a few miles to reach their campsite, Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park (775/831-0494, www.parks.nv.gov, free) allows camping in three walk-in campgrounds—Marlette Peak, Hobart, and North Canyon. Located in the Spooner Backcountry, each campground has four or five campsites; amenities include a toilet, picnic tables, fire rings, and bear-resistant food bins and trash storage.
Many visitors complain that it’s hard to find lodgings with real “nature appeal” around Lake Tahoe, since so much of the shoreline has motels, hotels, and other businesses packed in right next to each other. That’s what makes the S Spooner Lake Wilderness Cabins (near Spooner Summit, 775/749-1120, www.zephyrcove.com, $90-190 for two people) so special. Set inside the boundary of Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park, the two Scandinavian-style cabins were constructed in 2002 with beautiful hand-hewn logs, and they are surrounded by nothing but forested parkland. It takes some physical exertion to reach the cabins. Spooner Lake Cabin is set on a knoll near Spooner Lake, a 0.75-mile walk, bike ride, snowshoe, or ski from the parking lot; it sleeps 2-4 people. The more intimate Wildcat Cabin is a 2-mile walk, bike ride, snowshoe, or ski and offers a lovely long-distance view of Lake Tahoe and Emerald Bay. Two people fit nicely in Wildcat; four would be a stretch.
Mountain bikers can spend the night at Spooner Lake Wilderness Cabins.
The cabins can be accessed year-round (weather depending), and they are equipped with a propane cooking stove and some kitchen supplies, a wood-burning stove for heat, propane lights, a queen-size bed, and a full-size futon. In place of a bathroom, guests use a composting toilet. (There’s no shower or tub at either cabin.) Each cabin is provided with two gallons of water per day, so you don’t have to haul that in, but you do need to bring your own food or plan to hike/bike/ski/snowshoe out for meals. This is an ideal getaway for summer visitors who want to bike the famous Flume Trail (the trailhead is right here) or just sit on their own private deck and read a book in the warm Tahoe sun.
One of the most romantic dining experiences possible at Lake Tahoe can be had at S The Soule Domain (9983 Cove St., Crystal Bay, 530/546-7529, www.souledomain.com, 6pm-close daily, $19-37). Dinner is the only meal served in this petite, 1930s-era log cabin located next door to the Tahoe Biltmore—that’s because it takes all day to prepare menu items as complex as fresh vegetables baked in pastry shells, grilled lamb chops with basil cashew pesto, and filet mignon pan-roasted with shiitake mushrooms, gorgonzola, and brandy. The meaning of the restaurant’s name? This place is the “domain” of chef and owner Charles Edward Soule IV. He and his brother Steve have been successfully running The Soule Domain since 1985.
Sit back in one of the velvet-covered, high-back booths and enjoy the old-school ambience at Crystal Bay Steak and Lobster House (Crystal Bay Casino, 14 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Crystal Bay, 775/833-6333, www.crystalbaycasino.com, 5:30pm-9pm Tues.-Sun., $27-45). The menu runs the gamut of quintessential protein-rich American entrées—prawns, salmon, scallops, ribs, rack of lamb, steaks, and prime rib. The namesake steak-and-lobster entrée ($82) is enough food for a family of four. Tableside preparation is their signature. Top off your meal with a port or cognac from the extensive wine list.
Perched on the edge of the old Ponderosa Ranch theme park, S Tunnel Creek Café (1115 Tunnel Creek Rd. at Hwy. 28, Incline Village, 775/298-2502, www.tunnelcreekcafe.com, 8am-6pm daily in summer, 8am-4pm Fri.-Wed. in winter, $6-10) is the perfect place to grab a latte, a smoothie, or a breakfast burrito to start the day. Later in the day, order a bowl of soup and a turkey panini to cap off your bike ride on the world-famous Flume Trail. (The shuttle service pickup point for one-way rides on the Flume Trail is right here.) This is an ultra-casual spot where you order at the counter and then grab a seat on the porch or on the couches or at the tables inside. The café is housed in a log cabin, so you can wear your muddy hiking or biking shoes and nobody cares. Make sure you walk up the dirt road behind the café before or after your meal—you’ll get a quick workout and great views of Lake Tahoe.
Enjoy a hearty meal at Tunnel Creek Café.
The menu is short but sweet at the ultra-healthy Mountain High Sandwich Company (Country Club Mall, 120 Country Club Dr., Incline Village, 775/298-2636, www.mountainhighsandwichco.com, 8am-5pm daily, $9-13). At lunchtime, this tiny café is filled with professors from next-door Sierra Nevada College as well as tourists staying at the Hyatt across the street. House-made baked breads elevate these sandwiches far above ordinary. There are lots of organic, vegetarian, and vegan choices, but that doesn’t mean you can’t get a tri-tip sandwich. For breakfast, try a burrito or a fresh-baked muffin. There are only about 10 seats inside, but on sunny days, everyone vies for the patio tables.
Old-time locals love The Wildflower Café (869 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Incline Village, 775/831-8072, 7am-2:30pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-2pm Sun., $8-13), a 1950s-throwback breakfast joint that knows how to do justice to pigs in a blanket (two pancakes wrapped around link sausages), biscuits and gravy, and home fries. They do lunch, too—a variety of burgers and sandwiches including all the classics, like tuna melts and Reubens.
Always dazzling diners with its drop-dead-gorgeous lake view, the S Lone Eagle Grille (Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe Resort, 111 Country Club Dr., Incline Village, 775/886-6899 or 775/832-1234, www.loneeaglegrille.com, lunch 11:30am-3pm Mon.-Sat, dinner 5:30pm-9pm Sun.-Thurs., 5:30pm-9:30pm Fri.-Sat., brunch 10am-3pm Sun., $34-59) features a high, open-timbered ceiling, two massive rock fireplaces, and hearty American food (spit-roasted duck, rack of lamb, grilled king salmon, elk chops, and beef tenderloin). This is not a restaurant for penny-pinchers; two people probably won’t leave without dropping at least $150 on dinner. This is why you might want to come here for lunch instead, when entrées are priced around $20 and you can enjoy the fabulous lake view in daylight. Or come any time, sit in the massive bar/lounge, and order from the less-expensive bar menu. In summer, you can nab an outside table, and even in winter you can bundle up and sit outside at the large gas fire pit. There may be no better spot for an après-ski drink.
The Hyatt has two other restaurants, both less expensive, more casual, and sadly lacking the Lone Eagle Grille’s lovely lake view: Ciao Mein and Sierra Café. The latter is known for its extensive breakfast buffet, which includes lots of homemade muffins and pastries.
The hippest place in Incline for new American food is Bite (907 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Incline Village, 775/831-1000, www.bitetahoe.com, 5pm-10pm Thurs.-Tues., $8-19). A huge variety of tapas-style small plates are available here, from outrageously good sliders (Tuscan grilled cheese, BLTs, ahi, and plain old cheeseburgers) to crab cakes, hanger steak, gnocchi, and macaroni and cheese. Even wine is available in small-sized portions, so you can taste several different vintages.
Now here’s a distinction: The Big Water Grille (341 Ski Way, Incline Village, 775/833-0606, www.bigwatergrille.com, 4:30pm-9:30pm Wed.-Mon., $24-32) is the highest dining room on the North Shore at an elevation of 6,700 feet, located right below the entrance to Diamond Peak Ski Resort. That great height means that a few choice tables have great lake views (albeit from a distance), which are coupled with an outstanding and creative menu that changes often. Current favorites include the lobster trio (lobster thermidor, lobster soufflé, and a lobster gazpacho) and heirloom tomato soup. The wine list features more than 200 choices, and the bar is often bustling with Tahoe locals, especially during happy hour when appetizers are only about $10.
It’s hard to classify the food at Fredrick’s Fusion Bistro (907 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Incline Village, 775/832-3007, www.fredricksbistro.com, 5pm-9:30pm daily, $15-30), or “Fred’s” as IV locals call it. The cuisine is part Californian, part European, and part Asian sushi bar. No matter, you’ll love whatever you order, whether it’s the sushi rolls or the broiled salmon or the braised short rib. Everything is served in an intimate bistro-style dining room that has only a handful of tables, so be sure to make a reservation in advance.
Located across from the monolithic Hyatt, Austin’s (120 Country Club Dr., Incline Village, 775/832-7778, www.austinstahoe.com, 11am-9pm Mon.-Fri., 5pm-9pm Sat.-Sun., $9-24) is a cozy, home-style restaurant that is famous for its comfort food. If you are craving chicken-fried steak (or chicken-fried chicken, for that matter), you’ll find it here, served with a side of mashed potatoes and gravy. But this is not just a meat-and-potatoes place; salad lovers will appreciate the variety and size of the salads. A side of corn bread comes with almost everything. Austin’s buttermilk french fries with jalapeño dipping sauce are an Incline Village institution.
The soothing, purple-hued dining room at Thai Recipe (901 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Incline Village, 775/831-4777, www.thairecipeinclinevillage.com, 11am-9pm daily, $10-17) is the perfect setting for a meal of Thai egg rolls, lemongrass salad, and spinach curry, or any of your other Thai favorites. The restaurant’s owner, a retired university professor from Bangkok, makes sure that everything is beautifully prepared and served with warm Thai hospitality.
Situated in the Christmas Tree Village Shopping Center, Indu’s Asian Noodles (868 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Incline Village, 775/831-8317, www.induasiannoodles.com, 11am-9pm Wed.-Mon., $10-13) serves up the best wor wonton soup east of San Francisco’s Chinatown. It’s a huge bowl packed with fresh vegetables as well as delicate wontons. This strip-mall restaurant serves a huge menu of food choices from China, India, Vietnam, and Sri Lanka—a disparate variety that would serve as a culinary red flag at most places. But Indu’s somehow pulls off this fusion of geography. Order any of the soups or curries and you’ll be happy.
No discussion of continental cuisine in Incline Village would be complete without mentioning Le Bistro (120 Country Club Dr., Incline Village, 775/831-0800, www.lebistrorestaurant.net, 6pm-9:30pm Tues.-Sat., $20-30). Located across the street from the Hyatt, Le Bistro’s intimate provincial-style dining room is the perfect setting for entrées like quenelle of squab and beef tournedos. Can’t decide what to order? Go for the five-course prix fixe menu ($55). Every item, from the baked escargot and romaine salad to the crème brûlée, is très français. Chef Jean-Pierre Doignon is a legend in the Lake Tahoe dining scene.
Azzara’s (930 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Incline Village, 775/831-0346, www.azzaras.com, 5pm-close Tues.-Sun., $17-28) has been dishing out northern Italian meals to hungry Incline Village diners since 1978. It’s hard to decide between the multiple pasta dishes and house specialties like frutti de mare and melanzane, but no matter what you order, save room for the unforgettable tiramisu. This is classic Italian food prepared just right. Even the kids will enjoy the meals here. If you’re having trouble finding it, Azzara’s is in the Raley’s shopping center.
Sometimes after a day of skiing, ordering a pizza to go or eat in sounds a lot more appealing than showering and dressing up for dinner. That’s where Mofo’s Pizza (Christmas Tree Village, 868 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Incline Village, 775/831-4999, www.mofospizzaandpasta.com, 11:30am-2pm and 5pm-8:30pm daily, $12-22) comes in. They’ve been making pizzas for Incline Village residents and visitors since 1986. Their calzones and homemade ravioli are rich and filling, and the 20-item salad bar gives you something to graze on while you wait for dinner.
If your pizza sensibilities are a little more gourmet, try the exotic toppings and whole-wheat pizza crust at Tomaato’s (120 Country Club Dr., Incline Village, 775/833-2200, www.tomaatos.com, 5pm-9pm Thurs.-Tues., $12-25), located across the street from the Hyatt. Their calzones are as good as their pizzas, which manage to walk that fine line between thin crust and thick crust. Start your meal with a baked brie salad.
At lunchtime, don’t get in the way of the door at S T’s Mesquite Rotisserie (901 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Incline Village, 775/831-2832, 11am-8pm daily, $6-20), or you are likely to get run over by a horde of hungry people. T’s makes fast food the right way, with a large rotisserie oven that cooks whole chickens to perfection all day long. While you wait to order, the aroma can drive you crazy. Plenty of people order takeout; others find a spot in the crowded dining area or outside on a few picnic tables. In addition to the hormone-free chicken, there’s corn-fed beef tri-tip, sandwiches, steak and chicken burritos, and tacos. If you order right, you can feed a small family for about 30 bucks. Sunset magazine rated T’s tacos as “best in the West.”
If you’re picky about authenticity when it comes to Mexican food, S Lupita’s (754 Mays Blvd, Incline Village, 775/833-4141, 11am-9pm daily, $5-15) is your ticket. Many Incline Village visitors never find this restaurant because it’s tucked into the back of the post office shopping center, a couple blocks south of Tahoe Boulevard. Here’s what you need to know: Everything is really delicious and really inexpensive (by Incline Village standards). All of the tacos are winners and will only run you about $4 each. Enchiladas, burritos, seviche, margaritas—they do it all here.
The colorful Hacienda de La Sierra (931 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Incline Village, 775/831-8300, www.haciendatahoe.com, 4pm-10pm daily, $9-18) has everything you want in a Mexican cantina: great margaritas; large portions of fajitas, burritos, and all the classic Mexican dishes; plus unlimited bowls of chips and salsa. Adding to the festive atmosphere, Hacienda de La Sierra’s dining area is spacious and brightly hued (tropical artwork and a parrot theme define the decor). In summer, diners can eat outside on the back patio.
Most of us sold our fondue pots at garage sales sometime after the 1970s, but Fondue Blue (120 Country Club Dr., Incline Village, 775/831-6104, www.fondueblue.com, Wed.-Mon. 5:30pm-9pm, $15-34) delivers a finer version of the sticky, melted stuff than we ever dreamed of in our avocado-green kitchens. About a dozen different fondue dishes grace the menu; many first-timers order one of the fondue samplers for two ($60), which will sate your appetite for several days. Dip in some grapes, apple pieces, or French bread, and you’re in fondue heaven. Meat eaters will prefer the filet mignon, lamb, meatball, or jumbo prawn fondue. Dessert is, of course, a sinful chocolate fondue. In the summer, you can dine outdoors.
Visitors can fly into the Reno-Tahoe International Airport (2001 E. Plumb La., Reno, 775/328-6400, www.renoairport.com) and then rent a car or take bus, shuttle, or limousine service. Several companies offer shuttle or limo service between the Reno-Tahoe International Airport and the Incline Village area: Airport Mini-Bus/Bell Limousine (800/235-5466), Executive Limousine (775/333-3300), Aladdin Limousine (800/546-6009), Sierra West Limousine (877/347-4789), and North Tahoe Limousine (800/832-8213). North Tahoe Checker Cab (866/420-8294) also travels between the airport and Incline Village.
Visitors could also fly into the Sacramento, Oakland, San Francisco, or San Jose airports, then rent a car to drive to Lake Tahoe. Sacramento Airport is about 3 hours from Incline Village; the three other airports are about 4.5 hours away.
From the San Francisco Bay Area or Sacramento, the primary driving route to Incline Village and the East Shore is to take I-80 east to Truckee and then Highway 267 south to Kings Beach. Incline Village is about 5 miles east of Kings Beach on Highway 28. Total driving distance is about 130 miles from Sacramento or 220 miles from San Francisco.
From Reno-Tahoe International Airport, take U.S. 395 south for 7 miles to Highway 431 west. Drive southwest on Highway 431 for 20 miles to Incline Village.
Visitors can access Truckee or Reno by two major bus lines: Greyhound Bus Lines (800/231-2222, www.greyhound.com) or Amtrak Bus (800/872-7245, www.amtrak.com). Tahoe Area Regional Transit (TART, 530/550-1212 or 800/736-6365, www.laketahoetransit.com) system buses connect with these bus lines at the Truckee Depot to take passengers to Incline Village.
The nearest Amtrak train depots are in Truckee or Reno. For schedules and information, contact Amtrak (800/872-7245, www.amtrak.com). Tahoe Area Regional Transit (TART, 530/550-1212 or 800/736-6365, www.laketahoetransit.com) system buses connect with Amtrak at the Truckee Depot to take passengers to Incline Village.
Tahoe Area Regional Transit (TART, 530/550-1212 or 800/736-6365, www.laketahoetransit.com) runs between Incline Village and Tahoma year-round, traveling along the North and West Shores and up to Alpine Meadows, Squaw Valley, and Truckee. TART also connects with the South Shore bus line at Meeks Bay in summer. There is currently no public transportation that runs south from Incline Village along the East Shore.
During the ski season, the major ski areas (Northstar, Squaw Valley, Alpine Meadows, Mount Rose, Diamond Peak) have shuttle service to and from designated stops along Highway 28. Contact the individual resorts for details.
In winter, the Reno Ski Shuttle (775/325-8813, www.tahoeskishuttle.com) runs from major Reno hotels (Nugget, Hilton, Sands, Silver Legacy, Peppermill, Atlantis) twice each morning to Mount Rose Ski Area (a 25-minute drive). Reservations are recommended. The fare is $19 round-trip, but combined lift ticket-and-shuttle packages are available.
All the major car-rental agencies are available at Reno-Tahoe International Airport (775/328-6400, www.renoairport.com). To get current updates on road conditions in California, phone 800/427-7623 or visit www.dot.ca.gov. To get current updates on Nevada road conditions, phone 877/687-6237 or visit www.nvroads.com.
Several private cab services can get you where you want to go on the East Shore, or pick you up or drop you off at the Reno-Tahoe airport. Contact any of the following services: Truckee Tahoe Transportation (530/582-5828, www.truckeetahoetransportation.com), All-Star Taxi (530/448-2552, www.taxitahoe.com), Anytime Taxi (877/808-8294 or 530/414-4187, www.anytimetaxi.net), North Tahoe Checker Cab (866/420-8294 or 530/587-0666), or Lake Tahoe Taxi (530/577-7000).
Visit the Incline Village/Crystal Bay Visitors Bureau and Chamber of Commerce (969 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28 in Incline Village, 775/832-1606 or 800/468-2463, www.gotahoenorth.com, 8am-5pm weekdays, 10am-4pm weekends and holidays). If you are traveling to or from Nevada to Lake Tahoe, you might also want to visit the Carson Valley Visitors Center (1477 Hwy. 395, Gardnerville, 775/782-8144 or 800/727-7677, www.visitcarsonvalley.org) or Carson City Convention and Visitors Bureau (1900 S. Carson St., Carson City, 775/687-7410 or 800/638-2321, www.visitcarsoncity.com).
To check your email or surf the Web, go to the Incline Village Public Library (one block off Hwy. 28 at 845 Alder Ave., 775/832-4130). Or go to one of several coffee shops in Incline Village, including the Starbucks Coffee at 899 Tahoe Boulevard (775/831-6615).
Both of the following locations offer 24-hour emergency care: Incline Village Community Hospital (in the Raley’s Shopping Center, 930 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Incline Village, 775/833-4100, www.tfhd.com) and Incline Village Urgent Care (995 Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 28, Incline Village, 775/833-2929).