Granite and Grouse Lakes
DOWNHILL SKIING AND SNOWBOARDING
CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING AND SNOWSHOEING
SILVER LAKE, CAPLES LAKE, AND KIRKWOOD
pulling a sled through the snow.
Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.
S Markleeville: Turn back time with a walk along the streets of Markleeville, which are lined with 19th-century buildings, including the quaint Old Webster School at the Alpine County Museum (click here).
S Carson Pass: Stop in at the information station to learn about the journeys of the great scout Kit Carson and the thousands of emigrants who passed through this area (click here).
S Autumn Color: Timing is everything if you want to witness one of California’s best shows of fall colors along the roads of Hope Valley and Carson Pass, which generally attain their peak shades of gold, amber, and red between mid-September and mid-October (click here).
S Frog Lake: For a short, easy introduction to the scenic wonders of Carson Pass, take this 1.8-mile round-trip hike from Carson Pass Summit to Frog Lake. Most of the summer you’ll be able to admire myriad wildflowers along the way (click here).
S Lake Margaret: This nearly five-mile round-trip hike with relatively short uphill stretches brings you to the shores of lovely Lake Margaret, where swimming, fishing, and sunbathing are favored activities (click here).
S Dogsledding: Dash through the snow in an open sleigh drawn by eager, panting husky dogs and veteran dog musher Dotty Dennis (click here).
Carson Pass may be less than an hour from bustling South Lake Tahoe, but psychologically, it’s a world away.
Named for famous scout and explorer Kit Carson, Carson Pass is as noncommercialized as the South Shore is commercialized. There isn’t much in the way of visitor services except for a few scattered cabin resorts, a handful of restaurants, and one major ski area. The largest town, and county seat, Markleeville, has a population of only a few hundred people. In fact, all of Alpine County, California, has only two residents per square mile. Private property is the exception rather than the rule; a remarkable 93 percent of the county’s acreage is public land.
But this doesn’t mean that Carson Pass is undiscovered. The region’s population is boosted exponentially each year by the thousands of visitors who flock here in summer for hiking, mountain biking, and some of the best fishing anywhere in the Sierra, and in winter for an array of snow sports. Those who choose to visit come for the area’s natural wonders. High volcanic peaks, alpine lakes, aspen groves, wildflower fields, and dramatic Sierra scenery wait to be explored. The home of Kirkwood Ski Resort, this area is well known for consistently receiving more snowfall than anywhere else in the Sierra—often as much as 700 inches per year. The remarkable volcanic landscape lends itself well to alpine and cross-country skiing, snowboarding, and snowshoeing. For the intrepid skier who prefers trackless snow, miles of backcountry terrain wait to be explored.
Anglers, too, consider Carson Pass to be a gold mine, with hungry trout lurking in more than 60 lakes, multiple streams, and the world-famous Carson River. Hikers swarm to the area in July to see one of California’s best wildflower shows, and then return in late September for an incredible fall foliage display. Campers and hot-springs aficionados flock to Grover Hot Springs State Park, which in addition to its natural hot springs, has lovely meadows and pine-dotted woods. But the busiest weekend of the year occurs each July, when the annual Markleeville Death Ride takes place. One of California’s premier cycling events, the Death Ride consists of a daunting 129-mile route with a total 15,000 feet of elevation change. Even if you’d never think of riding in a bike tour of this magnitude, it’s worth showing up just to watch the spectacle.
If you are a hiker, biker, angler, nature photographer, snowboarder, or skier, you’ll easily find enough activities to keep you busy in the Carson Pass area for a week, a month, or more. Casual sightseers and those who prefer the city amenities of South Lake Tahoe will probably be content with a half-day drive through this area.
Be sure to visit the quaint hamlet of Markleeville, where the main street is a throwback to the 19th century. And take the scenic drive up and over 8,573-foot Carson Pass itself, where you can stop in at the log-cabin visitors center and learn about the thousands of emigrants who passed this way before you, or take the short, flower-filled hike to Frog Lake.
The quaint town of Markleeville (Hwy. 89), with its 100-yard-long main street, is well worth a stop. Founded in 1861 during the Nevada silver rush, the town once boasted a population of nearly 3,000 people, but today it has only 1,000, and that includes the outlying areas. Most of the town’s original 19th-century buildings still stand. Locals and visitors hang out on the front porch of the Markleeville General Store (14799 Hwy. 89, 530/694-2448, 10am-6pm daily). Don’t be surprised if you find a dog sleeping on the two-lane highway that runs through town.
In summer and early fall, pay a visit to the Alpine County Museum (1 School St., Markleeville, 530/694-2317, 11am-4pm Thurs.-Mon., Memorial Day-Oct., free). The museum consists of the Old Webster School, a one-room schoolhouse built in 1882, and an old log jail from the mid-1800s, constructed with seemingly impenetrable iron doors, two hand-riveted iron cells, vertical log walls, and a log foundation. Farming, mining, and lumbering tools are on display, as well as some Washoe Indian baskets and artifacts. Donations are accepted.
To get there from South Lake Tahoe, take Highway 89/U.S. 50 south for five miles to the town of Meyers. Turn left to stay on Highway 89 (signed for Markleeville and Kirkwood) and drive 11.2 miles to a T-junction with Highway 88. Turn left (east) and drive 5.8 miles on Highway 88/89, then turn right on Highway 89 and drive six miles to Markleeville.
Located four miles west of Markleeville, Grover Hot Springs State Park’s (Hot Springs Rd, 530/694-2248 or 530/694-2249, www.parks.ca.gov, $8) main attraction is its natural mineral springs, which were discovered by John C. Fremont, the explorer credited with the first sighting of Lake Tahoe. Unlike most hot springs, Grover’s water contains little sulfur, so it doesn’t have a strong “rotten-egg” smell. The warmer of the park’s two concrete pools is regulated between 102 and 104°F, although where the water springs from the ground it is a scalding 148°F. A cool-temperature pool is a more popular option in the summer months. The water is surprisingly greenish in color due to mineral deposits on the pool bottom reacting with the bromide that is used to sanitize the water.
The pools are open year-round except for Christmas and Thanksgiving, and a brief period in September for maintenance. In the winter months, the pools are closed on Wednesdays but open Thurs.-Tues. from 11am to 8pm. In summer, the pools are open daily, typically from 9am to 8pm, but hours can vary, so call ahead. Pool fees are $7 adults, $5 children 16 and under (cash only, no credit cards accepted). Weekends and holidays are very busy; the wait time to enter the pools during peak periods can be as long as two hours.
The park also has a year-round campground and hiking and mountain-biking trails. Ranger programs are available for children 7-12 at the campground. Nighttime campfire programs, usually held on Saturday nights, cover topics such as bears, mountain lions, the forest ecosystem, and the history of Alpine County. Most programs are about one hour long.
At the top of Carson Pass, elevation 8,673 feet, is a log-cabin visitors center run by the U.S. Forest Service, a trailhead that leads into the Mokelumne Wilderness, and a monument to the great explorer and scout Kit Carson. The Carson Pass Information Station (Hwy. 88, 209/258-8606, summer and fall only, $5 parking) sells maps and guidebooks and provides free information to visitors. It’s located at Carson Pass Summit, nine miles west of the junction of Highways 88 and 89 and five miles east of Caples Lake. Just east of Carson Pass, you can take a short walk to see large boulders painted with the names of gold-seeking pioneers who followed the route of the historic Emigrant Trail. If you have the time, be sure to take the short, one-mile walk to Frog Lake or the longer hike to Winnemucca Lake.
The Carson Pass area is well known for its spectacular show of fall colors put on by the dense groves of quaking aspens that line both sides of the pass. Optimal viewing typically occurs mid-September-mid-October, but it’s always wise to phone one of the area’s resorts to get an update on current conditions. Some of the most popular spots for photographers and leaf lovers are right along the road by Sorensen’s Resort, on the north side of Highway 88 in the pastures of Hope Valley, near Red Lake, on the north side of Caples Lake, and on the road to Woods Lake Campground.
The following hikes are listed from north to south along Highway 89 and from east to west along Highway 88. For more information on these trails, contact the Eldorado National Forest, Amador Ranger District (26820 Silver Dr., Pioneer, 209/295-4251, www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado).
Distance: 7.6 miles round-trip
Duration: 4 hours
Effort: Moderate
Elevation change: 1,500 feet
Trailhead: Big Meadow
Directions: From the T-junction of U.S. 50 and Hwy. 89 in Meyers, drive 5.3 miles south on Hwy. 89 to the Big Meadow parking area on the left (west) side of the highway. Park near the restrooms.
Nowhere is it more clear that the land around Lake Tahoe was shaped by diametrically opposed forces—fire (volcanic action) and ice (glaciers)—than on this pleasant day hike to Dardanelles and Round Lakes. The trip begins at the large Tahoe Rim Trail parking lot at Big Meadow. Pick up the trail from the south side of the parking-lot loop and follow it to a crossing of Highway 89 in about 200 yards. On the far side of the highway, the trail ascends through a red fir-and-lodgepole pine forest to expansive Big Meadow, a lovely place to visit at wildflower time, when it is covered with buttercups. After a too-brief level stroll through the meadow grasses, you head back into the trees for another mile of climbing. After a short, steep descent from a saddle, you’ll reach a junction at two miles out and turn sharply right on the Meiss Meadow Trail toward Christmas Valley, leaving the Tahoe Rim Trail behind (you’ll return to this junction to continue to Round Lake later). In about 200 yards, turn left at the next junction, cross a creek, and walk the final 1.2 miles to Dardanelles Lake. This last level stretch is pure pleasure—it is lined with aspen and alder trees, which put on a colorful display in autumn, and odd-shaped volcanic outcrops. A highlight is a massive western juniper tree that appears to be the granddaddy of them all.
At 7,740 feet in elevation, Dardanelles Lake is a stunner, with a striking granite backdrop and plenty of spots for picnicking, swimming, or camping. This is a deservedly popular spot. Spend as long as you wish here, and then backtrack to the Tahoe Rim Trail junction, turn right for Round Lake, and follow the trail 0.75 mile to its shores. Round Lake provides a stark contrast to Dardanelles Lake. It is about twice as large, brownish green in color, and surrounded by dark volcanic rock, not granite. Although not as scenic as Dardanelles Lake, it too provides excellent swimming, plus good fishing for cutthroat trout.
Distance: 3 miles round-trip
Duration: 1.5 hours
Effort: Easy
Elevation change: 200 feet
Trailhead: Grover Hot Springs State Park
Directions: From the junction of Hwy. 89 and Hwy. 88 in Hope Valley, drive east on Hwy. 88/89 for 7 miles to Woodfords, then turn south on Hwy. 89 and drive 6 miles to Markleeville. Turn right (west) on Hot Springs Rd. and drive 3.5 miles to the Grover Hot Springs State Park entrance ($8 per vehicle fee). Continue past the entrance kiosk, then take the left fork past the campground to the signed trailhead, a gated dirt road.
A short and easy walk from the campground and hot-springs pool at Grover Hot Springs State Park leads to an early-summer waterfall along Hot Springs Creek. The route begins as a dirt road, but in 0.6 mile it veers off to the left onto a narrower trail. You’ll hike through an open forest of Jeffrey and sugar pines with an understory of aromatic sagebrush. Odd-shaped volcanic formations can be seen beyond the trees. Soon the trail moves closer to Hot Springs Creek, and with the stream on your left, the canyon begins to narrow, and the terrain gets increasingly rocky. When the waterfalls are running strong with spring runoff, you will hear them before you see them. The largest of three falls drops about 30 feet over a tower of volcanic rock. The pools below the big fall are filled with trout and make great swimming holes later in summer when the creek flow slows and the water warms up.
Distance: 4.8 miles round-trip
Duration: 2.5 hours
Effort: Moderate
Elevation change: 1,500 feet
Trailhead: Meiss
Directions: From the junction of Hwy. 89 and Hwy. 88 in Hope Valley, drive west on Hwy. 88 for 9 miles to Carson Pass Summit. The Meiss Trailhead is on the right (north) side of the highway, across from and slightly west of the Carson Pass Information Station. A $5 parking fee is charged.
The hike to Red Lake Peak is a trek for history lovers. When you stand on the 10,063-foot summit, you can imagine what it felt like when explorer John C. Fremont climbed this peak on February 14, 1844, after nearly perishing from weeks of struggling through the snow-covered Sierra, and became the first white man to lay eyes on Lake Tahoe. At the time, what was even better for Fremont and the men of his expedition was that from this high point, they could see the pass that would lead them out of the mountains and down to the Sacramento Valley.
There is no official trail to Red Lake Peak, but so many hikers have made the trip that there is a clearly beaten path to the summit, which is also a popular backcountry skiing and snowboarding destination in winter. From the Meiss Trailhead parking lot, follow the Pacific Crest Trail west and then north, switchbacking gently uphill through acres of mule’s ears and sagebrush. At a saddle above Meiss Meadow, 1.3 miles from the start, you’ll see a cattle pond; just beyond the pond is an unmarked spur trail on the right that heads up the southwest slope of Red Lake Peak (although you can’t see the summit from here). The spur trail leads very steeply up to a notch, from which you can see both Lake Tahoe and Red Lake Peak’s volcanic summit block. The last stretch to the top has the worst gradient yet; the final few yards will require some hands-and-feet scrambling, but it’s manageable for most. In addition to the view of Lake Tahoe, about 20 miles away, the summit also offers views of Hope Valley, Round Top Peak, Elephants Back, and the Mokelumne and Desolation Wildernesses.
Distance: 10.2-11.4 miles round-trip
Duration: 5-6 hours
Effort: Moderate
Elevation change: 1,500-1,700 feet
Directions: From the junction of Hwy. 89 and Hwy. 88 in Hope Valley, drive west on Hwy. 88 for 9 miles to Carson Pass Summit. The Meiss Trailhead is on the right (north) side of the highway, across from and slightly west of the Carson Pass Information Station. A $5 parking fee is charged.
Because it is located near an equestrian campground, Showers Lake is quite popular with the horsey set, but it’s worth a look for two-legged visitors as well. Although the lake is pleasant enough for a quick swim, the hike to reach it is more of a highlight than the destination itself. That’s because the trail departs the Meiss Trailhead at Carson Pass and wanders through some remarkable Sierra scenery, providing a brilliant wildflower display in midsummer and splendid ridgetop views year-round.
The trail follows the same route as the path to Red Lake Peak to the saddle above Meiss Meadow, 1.3 miles from the trailhead, where the views spread wide. For many, this spot is a satisfying destination by itself. Where the Red Lake Peak spur takes off to the right, you continue straight, heading steeply downhill into boggy but beautiful Meiss Meadow, the headwaters for the Upper Truckee River, and then bear left for Showers Lake. The trail meanders up open flower-covered slopes and into occasional groves of lodgepole pines, and crosses the Upper Truckee twice. After a moderate climb, the last 0.5 mile is a 350-foot descent to Showers Lake at 8,790 feet, the highest lake in the Upper Truckee River basin. If you still have energy on the way back, you might want to take the fork on the south side of Meiss Meadow that leads 0.6 mile gently downhill to Meiss Lake, a shallow and warm body of water. Fishing is not permitted in this lake, but swimming (or wading, for very tall people) is recommended. If you visit both lakes, your distance for the day will be 11.4 miles.
Distance: 1.8 miles round-trip
Duration: 1 hour
Effort: Easy
Elevation change: 200 feet
Trailhead: Carson Pass
Directions: From the junction of Hwy. 89 and Hwy. 88 in Hope Valley, drive west on Hwy. 88 for 9 miles to Carson Pass Summit. Park in the lot on the left (south) side of the highway, next to the Carson Pass Information Station. A $5 parking fee is charged.
Hikers seeking a brief introduction to the Carson Pass area will enjoy this easy, short stroll to Frog Lake. The trail starts alongside the Carson Pass Information Station and meanders just under a mile to the lakeshore. After an initial climb of about 0.5 mile, the grade levels out. Note the contorted shapes of the lodgepole pines that grow along this path, a result of the heavy snow load they face each winter. During the peak of the July flower season, the lupine bloom and the seemingly endless acres of mule’s ears are spectacular. Turquoise-colored Frog Lake is just off the trail on the left; the distinct shape of Elephants Back, an old lava dome, rises behind it, and many choose to make the easy climb to its summit. Many hikers get inspired by the scenery here and continue another 1.4 miles to Winnemucca Lake, with a total elevation gain of only 500 feet from Carson Pass. You can also reach that lake by starting at Woods Lake Campground.
Distance: 6.8 miles round-trip
Duration: 4 hours
Effort: Strenuous
Elevation change: 2,200 feet
Trailhead: Woods Lake
Directions: From the junction of Hwy. 89 and Hwy. 88 in Hope Valley, drive west on Hwy. 88 for 10.5 miles to the Woods Lake Campground turnoff on the left (south) side of the highway, 1.5 miles west of Carson Pass. Turn left and drive 1 mile to the trailhead parking area, which is 0.5 mile before the campground. A $5 parking fee is charged.
As with most hikes in the Carson Pass area, this trail is incredibly popular all summer long, but especially during the peak of the wildflower bloom in July. As many as 300 people per day will hike to Winnemucca Lake on summer weekends. Although many people just walk out and back to the lake starting from either the Carson Pass or Woods Lake Trailheads, you might as well pack the most you can into this trip by hiking the full loop to Winnemucca and Round Top Lakes, and taking the spur trail to the summit of 10,381-foot Round Top Peak, an ancient volcanic vent that is the highest peak in the Carson Pass area.
The trip begins at the Woods Lake Trailhead; campers can start right from their tents, while everyone else has to start at the trailhead parking lot 0.5 mile before the camp. The path wanders through the forest for a while before it breaks out onto open slopes with a straight-on view of Round Top Peak. The outlet creek from Winnemucca Lake flows merrily on your right; the hillsides to your left are completely covered with flowers during the height of the season. In a mere 1.9 miles, you reach the shore of Winnemucca Lake, a gorgeous blue-green gem that is set directly below Round Top Peak and surrounded by mule’s ears, scarlet gilia, Indian paintbrush, and a host of other colorful flowers. At the lake, you’ll see plenty of other hikers who have arrived on the other trail from Carson Pass to the northeast, but your loop continues to the west for another mile of ascent to Round Top Lake. Heading there, you’ll leave most of the crowds behind. Beautiful Round Top Lake is considerably smaller than Winnemucca, but its deeply carved glacial cirque is quite dramatic, and a few stands of whitebark pines provide shade for picnickers.
Winnemucca Lake below Mount Round Top is a lovely sight.
At Round Top Lake, you’ve gained almost 1,200 feet from your start at Woods Lake, but Round Top Peak still towers imposingly 1,000 feet above you. Experienced, sure-footed hikers shouldn’t miss the chance to climb it by following the obvious use trail from the lake’s east end. The path struggles up, up, and up over the peak’s volcanic slopes. You will need to use your hands as well as your feet as you near the top; most hikers are satisfied with attaining a false summit a few yards below the actual summit, as the going gets quite hairy in the last stretch. Truthfully, it doesn’t matter how high you go; the views are dazzling from just about everywhere along Round Top’s knife-thin ridge.
Rest on a high point—and your laurels—and take in the marvelous vista of the Dardanelles, Lake Tahoe, Caples Lake, Woods Lake, Round Top Lake, Winnemucca Lake, and Frog Lake, all to the north. Although this view is certainly captivating, perhaps more dramatic is the southward vista of deep and immense Summit City Canyon, which drops 3,000 feet below Round Top. On the clearest days, Mount Diablo in the east San Francisco Bay Area can be seen, 100 miles to the west.
After backtracking to the base of the peak, finish out your loop with a descent on the Lost Cabin Mine Trail alongside Round Top Lake’s outlet creek, through more wildflower gardens, and past the structures of an old mine site, back to the campground at Winnemucca Lake. Walk through the camp and down the access road back to your car.
Distance: 9.4 miles round-trip
Duration: 5 hours
Effort: Strenuous
Elevation change: 2,200 feet
Trailhead: Woods Lake
Directions: From the junction of Hwy. 89 and Hwy. 88 in Hope Valley, drive west on Hwy. 88 for 10.5 miles to the Woods Lake Campground turnoff on the left (south) side of the highway, 1.5 miles west of Carson Pass. Turn left and drive 1 mile to the trailhead parking area, which is 0.5 mile before the campground. A $5 parking fee is charged.
One way to escape the crowds of wildflower aficionados and scenery lovers at Winnemucca and Round Top Lakes is to take this hike to Fourth of July Lake, which leaves the most heavily visited areas of Carson Pass behind and descends 1,000 feet on a merciless grade to the lake. Several routes will get you there, but the most scenic is to follow the 2.8-mile path from Woods Lake Campground to Winnemucca and Round Top Lakes, then depart the loop trail and take the left fork near Round Top Lake that leads west and then south to Fourth of July Lake. The trail reaches a rocky divide in 0.6 mile, and from there you can look almost straight down 1,000 feet to the lake. With only 1.3 miles of trail remaining, the grade is brutally steep. This steep and rocky descent—and ensuing ascent—is what stops the crowds from flocking here, although the wildflowers along this stretch are often some of the best in Carson Pass. (When the flowers aren’t blooming, you might want to skip Fourth of July Lake altogether and head for other destinations.) After stumbling through the precipitous descent to the lake, you’ll reach its shoreline and find good fishing for brook and cutthroat trout. Late in summer, as the lake level drops, a sandy beach becomes exposed—a perfect spot for a well-earned swim.
Distance: 8.6 miles round-trip
Duration: 4 hours
Effort: Moderate
Elevation change: 900 feet
Trailhead: Caples Lake dam
Directions: From the junction of Hwy. 89 and Hwy. 88 in Hope Valley, drive west on Hwy. 88 for 13.5 miles to the west side of Caples Lake and the trailhead parking area by the dam (4.5 miles west of Carson Pass).
Although the mileage is substantial along the trail to Emigrant Lake, the grade is so gentle you may wonder if you are still in the Sierra. In fact, the trail is basically flat for the first 2.5 miles as it parallels the southwest shore of Caples Lake, traveling under the shady canopy of big conifers. You’ll pass traces of the old emigrant trail along this route, but there is little evidence left of the multitudes who once traveled this way. But just when you get into cruising mode, you do have to do some work. Almost all the elevation gain takes place in the last 1.8 miles, beginning soon after the trail reaches the end of Caples Lake. You’ll ascend alongside Emigrant Creek, crossing it once, and then march up a final few switchbacks to the lake at 8,600 feet. There’s only one trail junction to worry about, 3.4 miles out, where you bear left. Emigrant Lake is a spectacular sight, set in a glacial cirque with steep granite walls rising up to Covered Wagon Peak and Thimble Peak. Swimming, sunbathing, and scenery-admiring are the preferred activities here.
Distance: 4.8 miles round-trip
Duration: 2.5 hours
Effort: Easy/moderate
Elevation change: 450 feet
Trailhead: Lake Margaret
Directions: From the junction of Hwy. 89 and Hwy. 88 in Hope Valley, drive west on Hwy. 88 for 13.7 miles to the Lake Margaret Trailhead on the north side of the road (0.2 mile west of Caples Lake dam and 0.1 mile east of the Kirkwood Inn).
For an easy hike in the Carson Pass area, you just can’t do better than this trail to Lake Margaret, which requires only gentle climbing and descending, and reaches the lake in a mere 2.4 miles. Most children five and up will be very comfortable on this trail and will certainly enjoy a swim in Lake Margaret. The path begins with a descent from the parking lot through a forest of red firs and lodgepole pines. It then meanders through an eclectic mix of terrain: across granite slabs, alongside meadows, across Caples Creek (a favorite area of fly fishers), past a couple of small ponds, and through more dense forest. At two miles, after a second creek crossing, you’ll find yourself in a lovely grove of aspens and, in season, knee-high wildflowers. The final stretch to the lake is the most strenuous ascent of the day, but still nothing to complain about. When you reach the top, you get your first look at lovely Lake Margaret, elevation 7,500 feet. Surrounded by granite slabs, the intimate-size lake provides just enough room for all comers to find their own spots for picnicking, fishing, or swimming. A few tiny islands and multiple shoreline boulders make for fine sunbathing. Although this trail is a great walk anytime it is snow-free, plan your trip for the July wildflower bloom, and you will be astonished at the beauty here.
Distance: 7.2 miles round-trip
Duration: 4 hours
Effort: Moderate
Elevation change: 1,450 feet
Trailhead: Thunder Mountain
Directions: From the junction of Hwy. 89 and Hwy. 88 in Hope Valley, drive west on Hwy. 88 for 16 miles to the Thunder Mountain Trailhead on the south side of the road, 1.8 miles west of the Kirkwood Ski Resort access road and 4 miles east of Silver Lake.
Although the Thunder Mountain Trail can be hiked as a 10-mile loop, the first leg offers such fine views and excellent scenery that the vast majority of hikers walk it out and back for a 7.2-mile round-trip. The trail begins with a moderate ascent through a lovely lodgepole pine-and-red fir forest, then emerges from the trees on a sagebrush- and mule’s ear-covered ridge, just below the snow deflectors above the highway at Carson Spur. From here on, you enjoy expansive views as you wander across an exposed landscape marked by strange volcanic mudflow formations, each one odder-looking than the next. Lichens on the rocks’ nubby surfaces give them an orange and greenish cast. The trail passes to the west of the Two Sentinels, elevation 8,780 feet, and follows the line of the ridge above Kirkwood Ski Resort. The only thing that mars the otherwise compelling scenery is the sight of the condominiums and development in Kirkwood Valley. Continuing along the ridgeline, the trail passes Martin Point and warning signs for out-of-bounds skiing at Kirkwood. A few switchbacks lead to a small saddle below a massive volcanic crag on the left and the high point of Amador County (9,410 feet) on the right, which is actually two feet higher than Thunder Mountain. Shortly beyond the saddle, a use trail leads northwest a few hundred feet to the top. The main trail continues around the back of this high ridge to a three-way junction, where you head right for Thunder’s 9,408-foot summit. The peak is marked by a metal pole and superb views of the Desolation Wilderness to the north, Round Top Peak to the east, Silver and Caples Lakes below, and the Mokelumne and Emigrant Wildernesses to the south. If you search around, you should be able to locate a summit register. Read the pithy remarks of others, and then add a few of your own.
Distance: 2 miles round-trip
Duration: 1 hour
Effort: Easy
Elevation change: 300 feet
Trailhead: Camp Minkalo at Silver Lake
Directions: From the junction of Hwy. 89 and Hwy. 88 in Hope Valley, drive west on Hwy. 88 for 20 miles to the Kit Carson Lodge turnoff on the north side of the road, at Silver Lake. Turn north and drive past Kit Carson Lodge. Go left at the first fork and right at the second fork to reach the parking area for the Minkalo Trail, 1.5 miles from Hwy. 88. Walk back on the road for about 150 feet to pick up the trail.
Silver Lake is owned and managed by the Eldorado Irrigation District, providing much-needed water for the folks “down the hill” in the Sierra foothills. The lake has numerous private homes and a few resorts and camps on its edges, making it seem somewhat less wild than nearby Caples Lake. Still, the big blue lake and its large, solitary Treasure Island is quite scenic, and this trail from its eastern shoreline leads to Granite Lake in only one mile—a walk of less than a half hour with a climb of only 300 feet. The path crosses Squaw Creek and meanders uphill through a granite landscape of big boulders and slabs (watch for trail cairns to keep you on the path). The trail leads right to Granite Lake’s shoreline, which makes a fine destination for casual hikers and families. True to its name, the lake is lined with granite. A swim and a picnic here could get your kids hooked on the Sierra for life. Those who want more exercise can continue for another two miles to Hidden Lake, which is unfortunately not as scenic as Granite Lake, and then loop back to the Minkalo Trailhead by descending to Plasse’s Resort and following the trail along the east side of Silver Lake back to Minkalo Camp.
Granite Lake is an easy walk from the trailhead near Silver Lake.
Distance: 3 miles round-trip
Duration: 2 hours
Effort: Moderate
Elevation change: 800 feet
Trailhead: Shealor Lakes
Directions: From the junction of Hwy. 89 and Hwy. 88 in Hope Valley, drive west on Hwy. 88 for 21 miles to the Shealor Lakes Trailhead on the north side of the road, 1.2 miles west of Silver Lake’s dam and 0.5 mile east of the Plasse’s Resort turnoff.
The best swimming in the Carson Pass region may well be at the granite-lined Shealor Lakes, and the lakes certainly win top honors in the scenery department as well. But aside from the tempting waters, the brief, rewarding trip to Shealor Lakes is all about polished granite. Even for the geologically challenged, it’s not hard to picture the glaciers moving through here.
The trail starts out in a red fir-and-lodgepole pine forest and climbs for 0.5 mile up a granite-studded slope to a ridgetop. At the top, you are rewarded with an amazing view looking north toward the Desolation Wilderness; pointy Pyramid Peak is an obvious landmark. Once you’ve reached this high ridge, the next mile to the lakes is all downhill, traveling over exposed granite slopes into the basin that cradles the Shealor Lakes. Trail cairns mark the way, but as long as you are descending, you’ll be heading for the lakes, which are in plain sight. This means that most of the work will be on your return, when you have to climb back up out of the lakes’ basin, but no matter; the scenery is so gorgeous that it’s worth every step. There are two Shealor lakes, but most people go no farther than the first, larger one. Surrounded by polished granite slabs, with a stand of trees on the south side that allows for a few camping spots, the lake is the perfect place to bring a book and spend a day.
Shealor Lakes
No discussion of biking in the Carson Pass area would be complete without singing the praises of the annual Markleeville Death Ride (www.deathride.com, July). The Death Ride brings even expert riders to their knees with its staggering 129-mile length and 15,000 feet of elevation change. The route begins and ends in Markleeville and goes out and back across three Sierra passes—Carson, Ebbetts, and Monitor. Each year, hundreds of cyclists sign up for the chance to pedal all or part of the epic ride. Even if you’d never consider riding in a bike tour of this magnitude, it’s worth showing up in July just to watch the spectacle.
To prepare for the Death Ride, a challenging training ride is the out-and-back from Woodfords to Lake Alpine (80 miles). From Woodfords, take Highway 89 south past Markleeville to Highway 4, then turn west and crank up a strenuous seven-mile ascent over Ebbetts Pass. Beyond the summit, you’ll descend to Hermit Valley, then climb up again through some nasty switchbacks to Mosquito Lake. From there, you have a big sigh of relief as you coast to Lake Alpine, where you can get some much-needed snacks at the store and café. Don’t get too relaxed, however, as you have to turn around and retrace your tire marks for the ride back to Woodfords.
For those with more sensible biking aspirations, the Carson Pass area offers a multitude of trails. Mountain bikers looking for an easy cruise will enjoy the dirt road that leads to Burnside Lake from the junction of Highways 88 and 89 in Hope Valley (13 miles round-trip with 1,100 feet of elevation gain). The lake makes a fine swimming destination. More-experienced mountain bikers looking for some technical challenges will enjoy the 8.4-mile single-track ride on the Tahoe Rim Trail to Round and Dardanelles Lakes. The trail begins at the Big Meadow Trailhead on Highway 89 (5.3 miles south of Meyers and 5.7 miles north of Hope Valley) and follows the Tahoe Rim Trail south through Big Meadow and on to the lakes.
A variation on this route is to follow the Tahoe Rim Trail to a fork 0.5 mile before Round Lake, then turn right (north) on the trail to Christmas Valley. This very technical downhill stretch will make you glad you have a full-suspension bike (or wish you had one if you don’t). When the trail reaches pavement, turn right and follow the old road back to the trailhead. This makes a loop of about seven miles.
From the same Big Meadow Trailhead, super-advanced mountain bikers take off on Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride, otherwise known as the Saxon Creek Trail. This treacherous point-to-point ride travels from the Big Meadow Trailhead to Oneidas Street in South Lake Tahoe. Some claim that the route is so boulder strewn and technical that it is simply not rideable. But that doesn’t stop people from trying.
On summer weekends at Kirkwood Ski Resort, you can ride up Chairs 1 and 2 with your bike, then pedal around a network of 13.5 miles of dirt roads and trails across the ski area, and 25-plus miles of trails just outside the ski area. Single-track fans have access to 11.5 miles of skinny trails. A skill park near the base has several jump and ladder features, on which you can show off for passersby or embarrass yourself trying. The most popular intermediate ride is to Caples Crest for a spectacular view of Caples Lake and the Mokelumne Wilderness. Lift access is available only on summer weekends 10am-4pm, early July-early Sept.; tickets are $38 adults, $23-28 children.
Bike rentals and route advice are available at Hope Valley Outdoors (Hope Valley Resort, 14655 Hwy. 88, Hope Valley, 530/694-2266, www.hopevalleyoutdoors.com) and at Kirkwood Adventure Center (1501 Kirkwood Meadows Dr., Kirkwood, 209/258-7294 or 877/547-5966, www.kirkwood.com). Rentals are $65 per day.
Boat rentals are available at Caples Lake Resort and Silver Lake Resort. At Caples Lake (1111 Hwy. 88, one mile east of Kirkwood, 209/258-8888, www.capleslakeresort.com, marina open from 7am-8am to 6pm-7pm summer and fall). Twelve- and 14-foot aluminum boats with 7.5-horsepower motors are available for fishing or just cruising the lake. Rates are $40-50 for two hours, $60-75 for four hours, or $95-110 for eight hours. If you’d rather travel under your own power, kayak and canoe rentals are $20-25 for two hours, $30-35 for four hours, or $50 for eight hours. If you have your own boat, the launch ramp is open from 7am or 8am to 8pm. Launch fees are $10-15.
In the early summer months (May-June) the East Fork of the Carson River provides exciting white-water action in its rugged, rock-walled canyon. Guided half-day trips on the Class III, seven-mile-long Wolf Creek Run are available from Tahoe Whitewater Tours (530/587-5777, Truckee, www.truckeewhitewaterrafting.com, $68 adults, $58 children ages 7-12). A mellower full-day trip is possible on the Class II Hangman’s Run ($125 adults, $115 children), a 21-mile stretch of the Carson that features beautiful mountain views and a natural geothermal hot springs.
For calm-water kayaking on one of Carson Pass’s many lakes, kayak rentals are available at Kirkwood Adventure Center (1501 Kirkwood Meadows Dr., Kirkwood, 209/258-7294 or 877/547-5966, www.kirkwood.com) located in the Red Cliffs Day Lodge at Kirkwood Mountain Resort, at Hope Valley Outdoors (Hope Valley Resort, 14655 Hwy. 88, Hope Valley, 530/694-2266, www.hopevalleyoutdoors.com), or at Caples or Silver Lake.
The Hope Valley and Carson Pass area is known as one of the greatest fishing regions in the Sierra Nevada. From April to October, the West Fork Carson River, which runs through Hope, Faith, and Charity Valleys, offers excellent trout fishing. It flows alongside Highway 88 and Blue Lakes Road, providing easy access, and is regularly stocked with rainbow and cutthroat trout. A fishing access area is located on the northwest side of the T-junction of Highways 88 and 89 in Hope Valley. You’re more likely to find solitude if you access the river along Blue Lakes Road.
Fishing is also good in the Upper and Lower Blue Lakes themselves, 12 miles up Blue Lakes Road from Highway 88. The primary catch is rainbow trout, with occasional brook trout and cutthroat trout. Fish here early in summer before Pacific Gas and Electric Company drops the lake level.
The East Fork Carson River is a fly fisher’s dream. From Hangman’s Bridge (south of Markleeville) downstream to the Nevada state line, you must use artificial lures with single barbless hooks. The river has rainbows, Lahontan cutthroat, brown trout, and mountain whitefish. If you’re not familiar with fly-fishing, or want to sharpen your skills, sign up for lessons with Horse Feathers Fly Fishing School (530/694-2399), which operates out of Sorensen’s Resort.
Caples Lake and Silver Lake both have excellent fishing for rainbow, brown, and mackinaw trout. You can rent boats at either lake and try your luck at trolling, or fish from shore. For the intrepid angler who can’t wait for the snow to melt, ice fishing is possible in both Caples and Silver Lakes.
Fishing licenses, flies, bait, and tackle are available at Woodfords Station (290 Hwy. 88, Woodfords, 866/694-2930, www.woodfordsstation.com, 7am-6pm daily), the Markleeville General Store (14799 Hwy. 89, 530/694-2448, 10am-6pm daily), Carson River Resort (12399 Hwy. 89, Markleeville, 877/694-2229, www.carsonriverresort.com), Hope Valley Outdoors (Hwys. 88 and 89, Hope Valley, http://hopevalleycrosscountry.com), Kirkwood General Store (1501 Kirkwood Meadows Dr., 209/258-7294), and at Silver and Caples Lakes.
The handsome steeds at the Kirkwood Corral (1501 Kirkwood Meadows Dr. at Hwy. 88, Kirkwood, 775/315-1932, www.kirkwood.com) have been a picturesque fixture in Kirkwood’s meadow for more than 100 years. Rides (1.5 hours, $35 per person) are available daily in summer.
Horses graze the meadow at Kirkwood Corral.
At Kirkwood Ski Resort (1501 Kirkwood Meadows Dr. at Hwy. 88, Kirkwood, 209/258-6000 or 877/547-5966, www.kirkwood.com, 9am-4pm daily), the operative word is snow, and it’s Tahoe’s deepest and driest. For most of the last decade, the resort has had the deepest snowpack of any ski area—not just at Lake Tahoe, but anywhere in North America. Average annual snowfall is more than 500 inches—some years more than 700 inches—and this is quality stuff, typically the driest snow in the entire Sierra. Powder hounds, rejoice.
The alpine slopes at Kirkwood feature steep chutes, plenty of tree skiing, big cliffs, and powder-filled open bowls. Fourteen lifts serve almost 70 runs, which are carved over 2,300 acres of skiable terrain. The longest vertical drop is a respectable 2,000 feet; the longest run is 2.5 miles. Kirkwood’s base elevation is 7,800 feet, which is higher than all other Tahoe-area resorts except Mount Rose, and snow depths even at the bottom of the mountain are generally more than 20 feet. Its top elevation is 9,800 feet.
For those who prefer fresh tracks, Kirkwood also features some of the best backcountry skiing anywhere in the Tahoe basin, with great terrain, extreme “steeps,” and easy access. When the access gates to the backcountry are open, skiers and riders can find great lines heading out of Kirkwood in all directions, and the mountain vistas are sublime. The resort capitalizes on this with Expedition Kirkwood, a school that teaches backcountry skills, including avalanche awareness and survival techniques. Kirkwood is the only resort in California to offer such a program. A special area called Beacon Basin is reserved as an avalanche transceiver training area.
There are many access points for skiers to head into the Carson Pass backcountry.
Snowboarders have plenty to cheer about at Kirkwood, too. It has three terrain parks, including a 350-foot-long superpipe with 18-foot walls. Beginning riders and skiers don’t get left behind. The gentle terrain at Kirkwood’s Timber Creek has been rated as one of the top learning areas in the country. This is long, gentle, beginner terrain in a separate area of the mountain with its own lodge and three lifts. The Mighty Mountain Children’s School teaches kids ages 4-12 how to ski and ages 5-12 how to snowboard. All-day packages ($124) for kids include lessons, rentals, and lunch. Every Sunday, a child 12 and under can ski free with a parent paying for an adult lift ticket (only one child per adult). Learning programs for adults include weekday packages that include rentals, lessons, and a limited lift ticket for as low as $65. Weekend prices are considerably higher. Kirkwood also has ski-in, ski-out lodging, plus activities for nonskiers like evening snowcat tours, grooming cat rides, tubing, and snowshoeing at the Kirkwood Cross-Country Center.
Kirkwood has a multitude of activities that are suitable for kids, from scaling the Adventure Center’s climbing wall to tubing and dogsledding in winter. Kirkwood’s zip line course, Zip Tahoe (209/258-7330, www.ziptahoe.com, $125 per person) was shut down in summer 2014, but the owners expect to be back in operation by summer 2016. The zip line consists of nine segments with platform decks in between. Situated 90 feet above the ground, the zip line bobs and weaves through the tree canopy, poking out from the trees just often enough to provide lovely Sierra views. Riders can reach speeds of 30 miles per hour. The entire zip line tour lasts about three hours and includes a ride to the course via all-terrain vehicle and chairlift.
Kirkwood is owned by Vail Resorts Inc. (the same company that owns Heavenly and Northstar), so Kirkwood season pass holders can also use their passes at Northstar and Heavenly, and vice versa. In addition to the ski resort, Vail Resorts bought the land at the mountain’s base, with commercial development in mind. This means that sleepy little Kirkwood may soon have a multimillion-dollar “mountain village” with shops, restaurants, condos, and the like.
A day spent skiing or riding at Kirkwood will cost a bit less than at most of the Tahoe resorts. All-day lift tickets for adults are $89-102, teens 13-18 and seniors 65-69 are $79-92, children 5-12 and seniors 70 and up are $63-74, and children 4 and under ski free. To save a few bucks on Kirkwood lift tickets, buy them in advance at Kirkwood’s website. Or if you plan to ski two days in a row on non-holidays, buy a discounted two-day ticket.
If you are staying on Tahoe’s South Shore and you don’t want to drive through snowy Carson Pass to get to Kirkwood, check your calendar. If it’s Monday or Wednesday, you can catch a ride on the Tahoe ski shuttle (877/274-7366, www.tahoeskishuttle.net), which leaves from various points between Stateline and the South Lake Tahoe Y between 8am and 8:45am The return bus leaves Kirkwood at 4:30pm ($15 round-trip).
More than 80 kilometers of groomed cross-country ski and snowshoe trails are available at Kirkwood Cross-Country and Snowshoe Center (1501 Kirkwood Meadows Dr. at Hwy. 88, Kirkwood, 209/258-7248 or 877/547-5966, www.kirkwood.com), located across the highway from the downhill ski resort, next to the Kirkwood Inn. With a base elevation of 7,800 feet, there is usually dependable snow here at Kirkwood when it’s getting thin, icy, and pathetic at other cross-country resorts. All trails are machine-groomed each morning and have skating, gliding, and snowshoe lanes. The trail system is divided into three interconnected sections that cover more than 4,000 acres. Trailside warming huts and a day lodge are available for drinks, snacks, and a place to get warm by a blazing fire. Snowshoers are allowed to go everywhere skiers can go, and dogs are allowed on two short but fun trails, including one that circles Kirkwood Meadow. A special one-kilometer loop trail is set aside for young children. It circles around a meadow by the day lodge and has life-size outlines of forest animals and other fun interpretive signs.
All-day trail passes are $26 for adults 19-64, $22 for teens 13-18 and seniors 65-69, $14 for seniors 70 and up, and $8 for children 11-12. Children 10 and under ski free. Skiing and snowshoeing equipment rentals are available; the cost is about $26 per day ($21 half-day) for either sport. Adult beginner packages, which include cross-country skiing lessons, trail passes, and rentals, are $52 all-day, $45 half-day. Guided snowshoe hikes are often available, including a special full-moon snowshoe one night each month in winter ($35).
At Hope Valley Outdoors (Hwy. 89/88 junction, Hope Valley, 530/721-2015, www.hopevalleyoutdoors.com), located in a yurt in the meadow at Pickett’s Junction (one mile west of Sorenson’s Resort, just south of the junction of Hwy. 89 and Hwy. 88), you can rent cross-country and telemark skis ($20-33) and snowshoes ($20-25). Cross-country ski lessons and guided tours are offered by advance reservation. Sixty miles of trails, some of which are groomed, are available nearby in the national forest. There is no fee for using the trails, but donations are accepted. Dogs are welcome on the trails.
For do-it-yourselfers, two Sno-Parks are found about 500 feet apart on Highway 88 at Carson Pass and Meiss Meadow. Both have parking for about 40 cars. As at all California Sno-Parks, you must purchase a Sno-Park permit ($5 per day or $25 per year; contact the Eldorado National Forest at 530/644-6048 for a list of places that sell them) in order to park your car and access the trails. From the Carson Pass Sno-Park, you can ski or snowshoe the intermediate Wilderness Boundary Trail, which connects with Woods Lake Road and the trail from Meiss Sno-Park. From Meiss Sno-Park, you can ski or snowshoe the easy route to Woods Lake (you have to cross the highway to access the trail) or head north to Meiss Meadow on an unmarked route that roughly follows the Pacific Crest Trail.
A third Sno-Park is located at Blue Lakes Road and Highway 88, three miles west of the T-junction of Highway 88 and 89, but because snowmobiles are allowed, this Sno-Park is not as popular for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. For an easy cross-country glide, many skiers park along the road near the junction of Highways 88 and 89 in Hope Valley, then ski around the meadows near the junction or along the Burnside Lake Road to Burnside Lake (13 miles round-trip). Two miles north of this junction on Highway 89 is the meadow at Grass Lake, another good place for easy skiing. A three-mile trail leads to Hope Valley. Both of these areas are great for moonlight skiing.
Lake Tahoe Adventures (3071 Hwy. 50, South Lake Tahoe, 530/577-2940 or 800/865-4679, www.laketahoeadventures.com) specializes in introducing beginners to snowmobiling with a two-hour tour around Hope Valley and Charity Valley. Helmets, gloves, and boots are included in the price; tours cost $130 for single riders and $170 for two riders on one machine (holiday rates are slightly higher).
In Hope Valley, 30-year veteran sled-dog mushers Dotty Dennis and David Beck and their pack of frisky pups at Husky Express (775/782-3047, www.sierraskitouring.com, $250 per sled, reservations required) will take you on a five-mile, hour-long ride. The dogs—mostly huskies but also a few other breeds—do their stuff at the Highway 88 meadow by the Scott Lake turnoff, 1.5 miles west of the Highway 88/89 junction. The dogsleds have a load limit of 375 pounds each, with room for two adults and one or two small children. If you get hooked on dog mushing, Dotty offers a comprehensive hands-on mushers course and a skijoring clinic.
The intimate, 11-room Creekside Lodge (14820 Hwy. 89, Markleeville, 530/694-2511 or 866/802-7335, www.markleevilleusa.com, $80-180) is located in downtown Markleeville right next to the historic Wolf Creek Restaurant and Cutthroat Bar. The recently renovated rooms are decorated in mountain lodge style, with colorful quilts, historic photographs and prints, and wrought-iron lamps and headboards. Eight rooms have king beds, two have queen beds, and one suite is set up for families with a king bed, two twin beds, and a kitchenette. All rooms have telephones and satellite television.
For budget lodging in the Carson Pass area, you won’t find a better deal than the 20-room Woodfords Inn (20960 Hwy. 89, Woodfords, 530/694-2410, $77-110). Rooms have one queen bed or two doubles. Rates are low partly because it’s a half-hour drive to Kirkwood and six miles to Markleeville. All rooms have cable television and VCRs, and there is a hot tub on the premises.
One more option in downtown Markleeville is the J. Marklee Toll Station (14856 Hwy. 89, Markleeville, 530/694-2507, www.tollstation.com, $85-125), which has five ultrabasic rooms and one cabin.
If you want to fish the world-class trout waters of the East Fork Carson River, book a stay at the cabins at the Carson River Resort (12399 Hwy. 89, Markleeville, 877/694-2229, www.carsonriverresort.com, $90-170), just 2.5 miles south of Markleeville. This no-frills resort is a perfect base for fly fishers, with a general store that can supply the wet or dry flies you forgot and the few groceries you’ll need for basic sustenance. Many of the cabins are cute little log structures, which were sold as building kits by Sears, Roebuck and Co. in the 1940s. The River Cabin is the most coveted since it sits a stone’s throw from the East Fork Carson. Pets are allowed in most cabins for a small fee. The resort also has RV spaces, a campground, and gas and propane for sale.
The campground at Grover Hot Springs State Park (530/694-2248, www.parks.ca.gov, 800/444-7275 or www.reserveamerica.com for reservations, $35) is a favorite of bathers and others who believe in, or at least enjoy, the healing power of mineral waters. Located three miles outside downtown Markleeville, the park has two pools—one hot and one cool—plus a 76-site campground for tents or RVs up to 24 feet long. The campground has showers, water, flush toilets, picnic tables, and fire pits.
The Carson River Ranger District of Toiyabe National Forest runs five campgrounds (775/882-2766, $16) in the lands around Markleeville and Woodfords: Crystal Springs, Snowshoe Springs, Kit Carson, Hope Valley, and Markleeville Creek. Each have only 10-20 sites. All campgrounds are first come, first served except Hope Valley, which can be reserved in advance at 877/444-6777 or www.recreation.gov.
Just outside Markleeville, Turtle Rock County Park (17300 Hwy. 89, 530/694-2140, $10-15) has 26 sites for tents or RVs up to 35 feet long set in an open pine forest. And a few miles off Highway 89 near Indian Creek Reservoir, the Bureau of Land Management runs the 29-site Indian Creek Campground (775/885-6000, $14-32), which can accommodate RVs up to 30 feet long and has a few luxuries, including hot showers, flush toilets, and an RV dump station. Boating, fishing, and swimming are popular here. No reservations are available for the camp’s individual sites; it’s first come, first served, unless you want the group campsite that holds 40 people. To reserve the group site, call the BLM Carson City District Office (775/885-6000).
Located in a dense grove of quaking aspens in Hope Valley, S Sorensen’s Resort (14255 Hwy. 88, Hope Valley, 530/694-2203 or 800/423-9949, www.sorensensresort.com, $125-235 for two) is a deservedly popular spot. Set on nearly 170 acres, the cabin resort was first developed in the 1920s by Danish sheepherders. Much of the architecture is Scandinavian in style, and each of the 30 cabins is unique. Some have gas fireplaces or woodstoves, and a few cabins are pet-friendly (rates vary based on cabin size; the largest units sleep six and cost about $475 per night). The resort is well suited to both serious outdoor recreationists and romantics looking for a weekend getaway. The resort’s café serves three meals a day, and cross-country skiing is popular in winter. A wide variety of excursions and organized activities are available year-round, from history hikes to watercolor painting classes to bird-watching to astronomy lessons.
The private Hope Valley Resort (800/423-9949, tent sites $20-45, trailers $85-95), run by the folks at Sorensen’s, has 25 sites alongside the West Fork Carson River for tents or RVs up to 36 feet long, with full hookups, flush toilets, and showers. If you are a tent camper, you’ll love the three walk-in sites. If you don’t care to rough it, rent their 1947 housekeeping trailer with a front deck that overlooks the river.
Additionally, the Pacific Gas and Electric utility company manages a series of campgrounds at Blue Lakes ($23), a popular fishing and boating spot on Blue Lakes Road near Hope Valley. The camps are situated between 12 and 14 miles from Hwy. 88, so it’s a long drive to get here (and get back out for groceries). Elevation is 8,200 feet. No reservations. For more information, contact the Amador Ranger District of Eldorado National Forest (209/295-4251).
Lastly, the Carson River Resort also has campsites and RV spaces for rent (12399 Hwy. 89, Markleeville, 530/694-2229, www.carsonriverresort.com, $20-35), as does Sorensen’s Resort (14255 Hwy. 88, Hope Valley, 530/694-2203 or 800/423-9949, www.sorensensresort.com).
The center of all activity in Markleeville, Wolf Creek Restaurant and Cutthroat Saloon (14830 Hwy. 89, Markleeville, 530/694-2150, www.markleevilleusa.com, 8am-9pm daily in summer, winter hours vary, $11-30) serves three meals a day on the weekends and two during the week in its historic three-story building. The structure was moved to Markleeville in 1885 from its original site in Silver Mountain City, which was once the Alpine County seat (now it’s a ghost town). The menu runs the gamut from simple hamburgers and hearty salads to baby back ribs, pan-seared salmon, and calamari piccata. It’s all delicious mountain fare, served up with a big dose of Markleeville atmosphere. Cozy up next to the pot-bellied stove with a glass of zinfandel and thank your lucky stars that towns like this still exist.
If it’s Friday or Saturday night, head to S Stonefly (4821 Hwy. 89, Markleeville, 530/694-9999, www.stoneflyrestaurant.com, 5pm-9pm Fri.-Sat., $16-26), an Italian café that is so hip and cool that it only needs to be open two nights a week. Wood-fired pizzas are a big attraction, covered with trendy toppings like baby kale, pine nuts, and beets. Other offerings are equally gourmet: wood-fired Dungeness crab, polenta with mushrooms, and a house-made ricotta. The menu is short and sweet and changes with the season, so go with an open mind. Everything is prepared in the open kitchen and served in the colorful, cozy dining room, or outside on the patio in the summer months.
Another dependable bet for three meals a day year-round is the café at S Sorensen’s Resort (14255 Hwy. 88, Hope Valley, 530/694-2203 or 800/423-9949, www.sorensensresort.com, 7:30am-4pm and 5pm-8:30pm daily, breakfast and lunch $8-18, dinner $18-35). You can pop in for breakfast or lunch any time, but dinner is by reservation only, and most spots in the small dining room are taken by the resort’s guests, so be sure to call early in the day. Homemade soups, beef burgundy stew, grilled salmon, barbecued chicken, seafood pasta, and New York steak round out the classically American menu. Don’t miss the homemade berry cobbler.
For a quick stop for breakfast or lunch, or for the latest fishing advice or local gossip, stop in at the historic Woodfords Station (290 Hwy. 88 at Markleeville turnoff, Woodfords, 866/694-2930, www.woodfordsstation.com, 7am-6pm daily, $4-8). Have a seat in the old Pony Express stop and try the McWoodford’s egg, ham, and cheese sandwich for breakfast or a slice of Lynda’s quiche. A variety of hot and cold sandwiches are served, plus chili or the soup of the day and a passel of pies and milk shakes. All that, and you can buy a fishing license, too.
Lovers of quality baked goods, you’ll be in your happy place at S Hope Valley Café (14655 Hwy. 88, Markleeville, 530/694-2323, www.hopevalleycafe.com, 8am-5pm daily, $8-12). Pies are the specialty of owner/baker Leesa Lopazanski (you can buy a slice or a whole pie to take home), but her “monster” cookies and other goodies are just as yummy. Huge omelets and breakfast burritos are served in the morning, and sandwiches in the afternoon. A few microbrews and imported beers are on tap, and you can take home Leesa’s pot pies and bake them at home. Everybody who stops here leaves happy.
Groceries and supplies are available at the Markleeville General Store in downtown Markleeville (14799 Hwy. 89, 530/694-2448, 10am-6pm daily) and at the store at Carson River Resort (877/694-2229). If you need to do some serious stocking up, your best bet is to head to South Lake Tahoe, a 40-minute drive.
The Highway 88 corridor has a handful of cabin resorts located right on the shores of Caples and Silver Lakes. Try Caples Lake Resort (1111 Hwy. 88, Kirkwood, 209/258-8888, www.capleslakeresort.com) for a convenient fishing or skiing getaway. Located just one mile from Kirkwood Ski Resort, the resort has nine cabins and six lodge rooms that are just a stone’s throw from Caples Lake. The rustic cabins have kitchens, bathrooms, and gas fireplaces, and can accommodate 2-6 people ($130-375 in summer, $150-300 in winter). The lake-view lodge rooms ($100-150 in summer, $100-180 in winter) have private bathrooms, but they are across the hall, so bring your bathrobe. A continental breakfast is included with the lodge rooms, but not the cabins. A sauna, small store, and boat rentals are available.
Located on Silver Lake, the S Kit Carson Lodge (Hwy. 88, Silver Lake, 209/258-8500, www.kitcarsonlodge.com) is situated on 12 acres on the eastern end of Silver Lake, just out of sight of Highway 88. The resort is deservedly popular, with naturally landscaped grounds surrounding wood-and-stone cabins located on the shore of Silver Lake. The resort’s 19 cabins have decks, fireplaces, kitchens, and private baths ($200-355 per night with a two-night minimum, or $1,190-2,470 per week late June-end of Aug.). Some, but not all, have lake views; make sure you know what you are getting when you book. For smaller parties of one or two people, eight motel-style rooms are available in two fourplex units ($165-175 per night). Although the motel rooms aren’t as intimate and spacious as the stand-alone cabins, each has a private deck that looks out onto the lake. Breakfast and dinner are available in the resort’s restaurant, which is adjacent to a small art gallery featuring paintings and sculptures of the Sierra. A swimming beach, boat rentals, and nearby hiking trails keep guests busy with a choice of activities. In winter, the resort keeps one cabin open for cross-country skiers and snowshoers ($250-275 per night).
For skiers and riders, lodging is available right at Kirkwood Ski Resort. Kirkwood Accommodations (800/967-7500, www.kirkwood.com) rents privately owned ski-in/ski-out vacation homes, condos, and town houses at Kirkwood Towers, The Lodge at Kirkwood, Meadowstone Lodge, the Mountain Club, Snowcrest Lodge, and other Kirkwood properties. Typical lodging rates during ski season weekends and holidays are $220-400 per night for two people in a studio unit or hotel-style room, but they can drop as low as $139 midweek during non-holiday periods. Two-bedroom units that can sleep six people go for $299-599 per night. “Stay and ski free” packages are the best deals, but these are only available during non-holiday periods.
The U.S. Forest Service (530/644-6048, www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado) runs four campgrounds near Silver and Caples Lakes: Woods Lake, Silver Lake East, Caples Lake, and Kirkwood Lake. Silver Lake East (62 sites, 877/444-6777 or www.reserveusa.com, June-mid-Oct., $24-48) is the largest camp, with sites that can be reserved in advance. The camp can accommodate RVs up to 40 feet long.
A major trailhead into the Mokelumne Wilderness is located at scenic S Woods Lake Campground (25 sites, first-come first-served, July-Oct., $24-48), which has a compelling view of Round Top Peak from many of its sites. Woods Lake camp is suitable for tents only.
Kirkwood Lake (12 sites, first-come first-served, June-Oct., $22) accommodates tents only. Caples Lake Campground (34 sites, first-come first-served, June-Oct., $24-48) is right across the highway from Caples Lake, and can accommodate RVs up to 40 feet long.
The 42 sites at Silver Lake West Campground (530/295-6810, www.eid.org, $25) are owned by the Eldorado Irrigation District and managed by a concessionaire. Reservations are not taken. Restrooms and water are available. The maximum length for a trailer or motor home is 24 feet.
The private Plasse’s Resort (209/258-8814, www.plassesresort.com, mid-June-mid-Sept., $29-36 tents, $35-49 RVs) at Silver Lake has a 60-site campground for tents or RVs up to 32 feet long, plus flush toilets, showers, laundry, a dump station, and a small store and restaurant. Canoe and kayak rentals are available.
First opened in 1864 by Zachary Kirkwood and in operation ever since, the S Kirkwood Inn (Hwy. 88 across from Kirkwood Ski Resort, 209/258-7304, 8am-9pm daily May-Sept., 11am-9pm daily Sept.-May, $10-30) is a throwback to early times in the Carson Pass area. Housed in the original log cabin, the inn is a great place for a hearty repast after a day tearing up Kirkwood’s “steeps” or a long hike to an alpine lake. Even if you are just driving through Carson Pass, be sure to stop and have at least one meal here. Have a seat by the roaring fire or straddle a bar stool at the rustic bar, and you’ll swear you’ve been transported to the 19th century. Look for the bullet holes left in the walls from Prohibition days. The dinner menu consists of hearty salads, burgers, and hot sandwiches, or more substantial fare like New York strip steak, campfire chicken, pork tenderloin, and a variety of pastas. Barbecue ribs are a specialty. A breakfast here is the perfect way to fuel up for a day exploring Carson Pass. As of 2015, the historic inn is owned by Kirkwood Resort.
The dining room at S Kit Carson Lodge (Hwy. 88, Silver Lake, 209/258-8500, www.kitcarsonlodge.com, lunch 11am-3pm, dinner 6pm-9pm Tues.-Sat., early June-late Oct., lunch $5-10, dinner $16-30) serves up no surprises, just classic American cuisine (steaks, salmon, pasta) that is well prepared. The airy and bright dining room is a perfect setting for any meal.
If you are staying and playing at Kirkwood Ski Resort, you’ll find several choices for casual meals: Timber Creek Bar and Grill, Red Cliffs Cafeteria, Monte Wolfe’s, and Bub’s Sports Bar and Grill. An honorable mention goes to Bub’s Sports Bar and Grill (209/258-7225, 3pm-8pm Mon.-Fri., 11am-9pm Sat.-Sun., $9-15) for its location right across the street from the Cornice Express lift and its tasty hamburgers and brick-oven pizzas; this is a great spot to take the kids or hang out with your buds. But the best of the resort’s dining options is the Off the Wall Bar and Grill (inside The Lodge at Kirkwood, 209/258-7365, 11am-4pm Mon.-Fri., 11am-9pm Sat.-Sun., $15-25). In winter, you can warm up by the fire while you chew on a prime rib sandwich or some blue-cheese-smothered potato skins, or dine on something more refined like a mixed green salad with prosciutto and figs. On weekend evenings, enjoy an elegant dinner of Southwest and Pacific Rim cuisine featuring entrees like fresh lobster ravioli with goat cheese and curry, scallops Rockefeller on a bed of wilted spinach, or filet mignon with wild mushroom bordelaise. Diners enjoy the big view of the slopes and Kirkwood’s ridgeline from Thimble Peak to Martin Point.
Groceries and supplies are available at the Kirkwood General Store (1501 Kirkwood Meadows Dr., 209/258-7294), but for serious stocking up, the 40-minute drive to South Lake Tahoe is your best bet.
Visitors can fly into the Reno-Tahoe International Airport (2001 E. Plumb La., Reno, 775/328-6400, www.renoairport.com) and rent a car to drive to Carson Pass, about a 90-minute drive. Visitors could also fly into the Sacramento, Oakland, San Francisco, or San Jose airports. Sacramento Airport is about two hours from Carson Pass; the other airports are about four hours away.
From South Lake Tahoe, take Highway 89 south to Meyers, then turn south (left) to stay on Highway 89. Drive 11 miles to Hope Valley, then turn east or west on Highway 88. East leads to Markleeville in 13 miles; west leads to Carson Pass in 9 miles, and Caples and Silver Lake beyond. It takes about 40 minutes to drive from South Lake Tahoe to Carson Pass.
From Sacramento, Stockton, or the San Francisco Bay Area, the primary driving route to Carson Pass is to follow Highway 88 east through Jackson. From Sacramento, take Highway 16 east and then Highway 49 south to Jackson, then take Highway 88 east to Carson Pass. From the San Francisco Bay Area, take I-580 east to Tracy, then take I-205 east to I-5 north. In Stockton, take Highway 4 east to Highway 99 north to Highway 88 east.
From Reno, take U.S. 395 south to Gardnerville, Nevada, then take Highway 88 west to Carson Pass.
Carson Pass is accessed from South Lake Tahoe and Meyers by traveling south through 7,735-foot Luther Pass on Highway 89, then connecting to Highway 88 at Pickett’s Junction in Hope Valley. A left turn on Highway 88 will take you east to Markleeville; a right turn will take you up and over Carson Pass and to Kirkwood Ski Resort. Highway 88, which crosses 8,573-foot Carson Pass, roughly follows the route blazed by pioneers Kit Carson and John Fremont when they discovered Lake Tahoe in 1846. The region can also be accessed from the east (U.S. 395 and Nevada) by traveling over 8,314-foot Monitor Pass on Highway 89, but this pass is usually closed in the winter months. Or it can be accessed year-round from the west on Highway 88 through the small towns of Jackson and Pioneer.
The Carson Pass area is much more remote than any of the other regions covered in this book. In and around Carson Pass and Hope Valley, you can drive for miles without seeing any businesses or services, although year-round there are enough visitors to this area that you can usually flag down a passing car. It is best to be sure that your vehicle is in good working condition before traveling around Carson Pass, as the nearest garage of any size is in South Lake Tahoe, and even getting tow truck service will probably take considerable time. (The tiny town of Markleeville has a small garage, but with very limited services. The best you can hope for is that they might be able to fix a flat tire.) Cell phone service is fair to good, so you usually won’t have to travel too far without being able to pick up a signal.
In winter, carry chains for driving around the Carson Pass area. The pass itself is perched at 8,573 feet, so it is much higher, and subject to worse weather, than Echo Pass on U.S. 50, the next pass to the north. Chains are sometimes required for crossing Carson Pass even if you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle. To get current updates on road conditions in California, phone 800/427-7623 or visit www.dot.ca.gov. To get current updates on Nevada road conditions, phone 877/687-6237 or visit www.nvroads.com.
For information, visit the Alpine County Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Center (3 Webster St., Markleeville, 530/694-2475, www.alpinecounty.com). The best source of information on outdoor activities is the Amador Ranger District of Eldorado National Forest (26820 Silver Dr., Pioneer, 209/295-4251, www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado), which operates a visitors center just off Highway 88 in Pioneer. In summer and fall, the volunteers at the Carson Pass Information Station (Carson Pass Summit, Hwy. 88, 209/258-8606) are a great source for information. Or contact the Pacific Ranger District (530/644-2349, Pollock Pines, www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado).
The nearest hospital is located in South Lake Tahoe, about a 40-minute drive from Carson Pass: Barton Memorial Hospital (2170 South Ave., South Lake Tahoe, 530/541-3420, www.bartonhealth.org). South Lake Tahoe also has two 24-hour emergency-care centers: Tahoe Urgent Care (2130 Hwy. 50, South Lake Tahoe, 530/541-3277) and Stateline Medical Center (150 Hwy. 50, Stateline, 775/589-8900).