Soups
"Orange bullets indicate the kosher categories in the note under the recipe title."
Soup puts the heart at ease, calms down the violence of hunger, eliminates the tension of the day, and awakens and refines the appetite.
—Auguste Escoffier
There is nothing more reassuring to me during a long day at work than knowing I have a big batch of soup cooking at home. All of a sudden, the traffic, endless errands, phone calls, and even bad weather seem a little less burdensome. In fact, knowing that my slow cooker has picked up the preparation where I left off makes me almost giddy—and definitely excited for dinner.
My love of soup started as a child, watching my father enthusiastically poking around in cabinets and the refrigerator looking for the perfect soup ingredients. I am not sure he ever knew how his soup was going to turn out, but he certainly enjoyed creating his masterpieces and presenting them to us, his devoted fans. When the weather was miserable or if someone in the house was ill, you could find my father in the kitchen, chopping and stirring his way to the perfect antidote (he was a pharmacist, after all). I was often the appointed sous chef and cherished those opportunities to spend time with him. Amazingly, we would start with some simple ingredients and a few embellishments—a couple of songs, some jokes—and shortly thereafter we had a big pot of warm, welcoming soup.
I still share my father’s adoration for fussing over a pot of from-scratch soup. But I rarely have the time or energy after a long day on my feet cooking at work to come home and begin again. This is where my love affair with my slow cooker began. With some simple organization and preparation, I can come home to the big flavor and gorgeous texture of a slow-cooked soup like Tomato and Basmati Rice Soup or Curried Split Pea Soup that I otherwise would have never had the time to prepare.
My equation for great soup starts with great ingredients. Like my father, I choose my elements carefully. First I decide if I am having dairy or meat. Next, I “check the calendar,” turning to the produce department or local farmers’ market to tell me what vegetables are in season and at peak flavor and abundance. (A zucchini that has spent days on a truck to arrive in the Midwest is not going to be a tasty addition to my pot. On the other hand, a zucchini that has spent only an hour or so to arrive at my local farmers’ market is going to be at its zenith of flavor.) Finally, I let my tongue and taste buds take over. There are pureed soups with creamy, rich textures like Cauliflower-Apple Soup with the embellishment of duck confit, and soups comprised of rich homemade stock with chunks of vegetables like Pasta E Fagioli. I love both types—I just let my mood decide.
Once I have decided what type of soup I want to make, I start planning ahead. A great soup does require a bit of effort, and while the slow cooker will do the lion’s share of the work, it’s important to help the process along. Vegetables should be cut to the same size to ensure each ingredient will cook at about the same rate. The vegetables and meat should also be browned before going into the slow cooker. This process of caramelizing the natural sugars deepens the flavors of vegetables and meats, gives them a gorgeous toasty color, and flavors the broth. For tips on browning.
As Dad taught me, a good pot of soup is something to really rave about. The combination of great ingredients and some tender loving care can yield an amazing meal that will have your family asking for more.
CHICK PEA AND LENTIL SOUP
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
PAREVE or Dairy or Meat
This savory soup is perfect for cold nights. I think it is perfectly delicious pareve and we eat it that way often as a first course or vegetarian main dish. With the addition of Spicy Chicken Meatballs or diced leftover Rubbed Brisket, the soup becomes a hearty main course. Made with water, it becomes a pareve starter for any type of meal.
Olive oil
3 medium carrots, peeled and diced small
3 celery stalks, diced small
1 large Spanish onion, diced small
1 medium fennel bulb, trimmed and diced small
3 garlic cloves, chopped
2 cups red lentils or green lentils (see Sources)
1 cup dried chick peas, soaked overnight and drained, or two 15-ounce cans, drained
One 28-ounce can whole peeled plum tomatoes with their juices, crushed
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 quarts Essential Chicken Stock, Vegetable Stock, or water
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
SUGGESTED GARNISHES
Charmoula, Harissa, chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped cilantro
1 Preheat a slow cooker to Low.
2 Place a large sauté pan over medium heat. Lightly coat the bottom of the pan with olive oil. Sauté the carrots, celery, onion, fennel, and garlic, in batches if necessary, until lightly browned. Transfer the vegetables to the slow cooker insert.
3 Add the lentils, chick peas, tomatoes with their juices, coriander, cumin, lemon juice, and chicken stock. Cover and cook on Low for 8 to 9 hours if using dried chick peas or on Low for 4 hours if using canned chick peas.
4 Before serving, adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve this soup out of a pretty tureen and pass the garnishes in small bowls.
TORTILLA SOUP
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
PAREVE or Dairy or Meat
This Tex-Mex classic is a meal in a bowl and one of my son Zach’s favorite soups. I like to add lots of vegetables and to float a smoky chipotle chile in it to add depth. This soup is vegetarian (pareve). You can garnish it with cheese and sour cream, which would fit a dairy meal, or you can make it a meat recipe by adding chicken or turkey instead.
Olive oil
2 medium Spanish onions, chopped
2 red bell peppers, roasted, stemmed, seeded, peeled, and diced
1 poblano chile, roasted, stemmed, seeded, peeled, and diced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 garlic cloves, finely diced
1 chipotle chile (see Note)
1 tablespoon Ancho Chile Powder (or see Sources)
1⁄2 teaspoon ground cumin
1⁄2 teaspoon ground coriander
3 tablespoons tomato paste
6 ripe fresh, tomatoes, seeded and chopped, or one 28-ounce can whole peeled plum tomatoes, drained (juice reserved) and crushed
2 quarts Vegetable Stock
3 fresh corn tortillas
1 cup corn kernels (frozen works well for this)
1⁄2 cup green beans cut into bite-sized pieces (frozen works well for this)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
SUGGESTED GARNISHES
Chef Laura’s Famous Guacamole, chopped fresh cilantro, fresh lime juice, shredded sharp Cheddar cheese, crumbled goat cheese, sour cream, shredded cooked chicken or turkey
1 Preheat a 61⁄2-quart (or smaller) slow cooker to Low.
2 Place a large sauté pan over medium heat. Lightly coat the bottom of the pan with oil. Brown the onions and peppers in batches. Season each batch with salt and pepper. Add the garlic to the last batch of vegetables at the end to avoid overbrowning. Transfer the vegetables to the slow cooker insert.
3 Add the chipotle chile, ancho chile powder, cumin, coriander, tomato paste, tomatoes (with their juices), and stock. Cover and cook on Low for 6 hours.
4 Toast the tortillas over the open flame of a gas burner or in a dry cast-iron pan, until they are browned in spots and smell of toasted corn. Break up the tortillas into small pieces and add them, the corn kernels, and green beans to the slow cooker.
5 Cover and cook on High for 1 hour.
6 Ladle the soup into bowls and pass your choice of garnishes.
NOTE
Chipotle chiles are smoked jalapeño peppers. They can be found with a hechsher (kosher certification) online (see Sources).
BLACK BEAN SOUP
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
PAREVE or Dairy or Meat
I like to make this hearty soup vegetarian and to top it with sour cream. However, you can easily add shredded cooked chicken or turkey before serving the soup and skip the sour cream. The addition of a chipotle chile does add some heat and a complex smoky fragrance and flavor. Remove the chipotle before serving.
Olive oil
1 large Spanish onion, chopped
1 large red bell pepper, seeded and cut into medium dice
2 garlic cloves, chopped
One 28-ounce can whole peeled plum tomatoes with their juices, crushed
1⁄2 cup Sofrito
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon ground coriander
2 teaspoons pimenton (see Note)
2 tablespoons tomato paste
5 cups Vegetable Stock or water
2 cups dried black beans, sorted through, soaked overnight, and drained
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
SUGGESTED GARNISHES
Chopped fresh cilantro, fresh lime juice, chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, sour cream, grated cheese, shredded cooked chicken or turkey
1 Preheat a slow cooker to High.
2 Place a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat. Lightly coat the bottom of the pan with oil. Cook the onion, stirring occasionally, until soft and brown, about 10 minutes. Add the red pepper and garlic. Continue cooking until the pepper has softened, about 5 minutes. Transfer the mixture to the slow cooker insert.
3 Add the tomatoes with their juices, sofrito, cumin, coriander, pimenton, tomato paste, stock, and beans to the insert. Stir to combine. Cover and cook on High for 4 hours, until the beans are soft.
4 Remove 1 cup of the beans and process in a food processor until they are very creamy. Add the pureed beans back to the soup. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.
5 Ladle the soup into bowls. Pass small bowls of garnishes and let everyone customize his or her own soup.
CREAMY TOMATO SOUP
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
DAIRY
My family eats a lot of tomato soup in our house, probably owing to my obsession with “all things tomato.” I use a sharp white Cheddar cheese, which lends this soup a comforting creaminess. You can also use a smoked Cheddar or Muenster for a deep, earthy flavor. I like to add playful garnishes to this soup like my Rosemary and Parmesan Popcorn or shredded cheese.
4 tablespoons (1⁄2 stick) unsalted butter
2 large shallots, finely minced
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
One 28-ounce can whole peeled plum tomatoes with their juices, crushed
One 28-ounce can tomato puree
2 tablespoons tomato paste
11⁄2 cups whole milk
1⁄2 cup heavy cream or half-and-half
2 cups shredded sharp Cheddar cheese (1⁄2 pound)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
SUGGESTED GARNISHES
Rosemary and Parmesan Popcorn or Parmesan Crisps
1 Preheat a slow cooker to Low.
2 Melt the butter in a medium sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add the shallots and cook until the shallots are very soft and translucent, about 10 minutes. Add the flour and increase the heat to medium. Stir to combine until the mixture forms a loose paste.
3 Add the canned tomatoes with their juices and stir thoroughly to combine. Transfer the mixture to the slow cooker insert. Add the tomato puree and paste. Stir to combine. Cover and cook on Low for 2 hours.
4 Add the milk, cream, and cheese. Stir to combine. Cover and cook for 1 hour longer. Add more milk if necessary to adjust the consistency. Season with salt and pepper.
5 Ladle the soup into bowls and pass the garnishes.
VEGETARIAN CHILI
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
PAREVE or Dairy
Chili is the perfect accompaniment for Sunday game day or a movie night. I turned a dish that could be ordinary into something extraordinary by combining different types of beans, vegetables, and peppers for layers of flavor. My family serves it steaming hot, right out of the slow cooker, accompanied by a platter filled with lots of tempting accompaniments. Adding cheese or sour cream will make it dairy.
For great taste and visual effect, use all the different beans I do or a combination of what you have on hand or like. The squash, sweet potatoes, and a variety of peppers make this hearty dish delicious and nutritious. If you prefer a milder chili, add the smoky chipotle later in the cooking process so less heat will flavor the chili.
4 cups dried beans (pinto beans, kidney beans, black beans, and/or chick peas), sorted through and soaked overnight
Neutral-flavored oil such as canola
2 large red onions, peeled and diced
1 small butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into large dice
1 large sweet potato, peeled and cut into large dice
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 garlic cloves, minced
2 red bell peppers, roasted, stemmed, seeded, peeled, and diced
2 dried ancho chiles, stemmed, seeded, toasted, and torn into small pieces
1 chipotle chile (optional; see Note)
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon ground coriander
6 tablespoons tomato paste
One 28- to 29-ounce can tomato puree
One 28-ounce can whole peeled plum tomatoes with their juices
7 cups water
SUGGESTED ACCOMPANIMENTS
Fresh or thawed frozen corn kernels (cooked), chopped scallions, grated Cheddar cheese, tortilla chips, sour cream, chopped red onions, chopped jalapeños, chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped fresh cilantro, fresh lime wedges, shaved bittersweet chocolate
1 Preheat a slow cooker to Low.
2 Drain the beans, rinse them under cold water, and set aside.
3 Place a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Lightly coat the bottom of the pan with oil. Brown the onions, squash, and sweet potato in batches. Season each batch with salt and pepper. Transfer the vegetables to the slow cooker insert.
4 Turn the heat to medium and lightly sauté the garlic and roasted peppers until golden. Add to the insert.
5 Add the drained beans, the ancho chiles, chipotle (if using), cumin, coriander, tomato paste, tomato puree, tomatoes with their juices, and water to the slow cooker. Cover and cook on Low for 6 to 8 hours until the beans are tender. Remove the chipotle chile before serving.
6 Ladle into bowls and pass your choice of garnishes.
NOTE
Chipotle chiles are smoked jalapeño peppers. They can be found with a hechsher (kosher certification) online (see Sources).
RIBOLLITA
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
PAREVE or Dairy or Meat
The name of this hearty Tuscan soup means “twice boiled.” Traditionally, it was made from leftover minestrone soup combined with stale bread to create a new dish. I break with tradition by adding the toasted bread toward the end of cooking. I also like to add a Parmesan cheese rind to the stock, which adds a refined richness to the dish. I save the rinds from Parmesan cheese in a bag in my freezer. Anytime I need an extra boost of flavor, in go the rinds.
Serve this soup with chunks of garlicky toast to contrast with the creamy beans.
2 cups dried cannellini beans, sorted through, rinsed, and soaked overnight
Olive oil
1 medium red onion, chopped
1 small leek, white part only, chopped
4 medium carrots, peeled and sliced
4 medium zucchini, trimmed and sliced
3 garlic cloves, chopped, plus 1 whole peeled garlic clove
1 small head savoy cabbage (about 2 pounds), shredded
1 bunch cavolo nero (see Note) or kale (about 1 pound)
1 bunch Swiss chard (about 1 pound), shredded
4 medium Idaho or russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1⁄2-inch dice
1 cup cut green beans in bite-sized pieces (fresh or frozen)
One 28-ounce can whole peeled plum tomatoes with their juices, crushed
1⁄4 cup tomato paste
Bouquet garni consisting of 6 thyme sprigs, 6 flat-leaf parsley sprigs, and 1 bay leaf, tied together with kitchen twine
6 cups Vegetable Stock or water
Parmesan cheese rind (optional)
Four 1-inch-thick slices stale Italian bread, toasted
SUGGESTED GARNISHES
Extra-virgin olive oil, grated Parmesan cheese
1 Preheat a slow cooker to Low.
2 Drain and rinse the soaked beans. Place the beans into the slow cooker insert.
3 Place a large sauté pan over medium heat. Lightly coat the bottom of the pan with olive oil. Sauté the onion, leek, carrots, and zucchini in batches until the vegetables are lightly browned. Transfer the vegetables to the slow cooker insert.
4 Add the chopped garlic, savoy cabbage, cavolo nero, chard, potatoes, green beans, tomatoes with their juices, tomato paste, bouquet garni, vegetable stock, and cheese rind, if using, to the insert. Cover and cook on Low for 6 hours, until the cannellini beans are creamy and barely holding together.
5 Rub the toasted bread with the garlic clove. Place the toasted bread on top of the soup. Press down lightly on it. Cover and cook for 30 minutes more.
6 Mix the bread into the soup before serving. Serve the soup in bowls, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese.
NOTE
Cavolo nero translates to “black kale” in Italian. This variety of cabbage does not form heads but rather looks like a bunch of big dark green or purplish-black leaves. Cavolo nero can be found in some specialty stores, but if it is not available in your area, you can substitute Swiss chard, another kale, or any hearty braising green.
CURRIED SPLIT PEA SOUP
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
PAREVE or Dairy or Meat
Common pea soup becomes exotic with the addition of curry. I like the way this soup satisfies my craving for a little richness and spice without a lot of fuss. I always brown the vegetables in small batches. It is important to brown all the vegetables on all sides. This extra step ensures deep flavor and a natural sweetness from the caramelized sugars. Overcrowding the pan results in the vegetables steaming and will actually prevent them from browning. This recipe has very few ingredients, so you want to maximize the flavor of each of them.
This soup actually gets better the second day, so make it a day ahead of when you plan to serve it, or set some aside for leftovers. You could make pareve batches dairy by garnishing with yogurt. You could make a meat version with chicken stock.
Olive oil
3 medium carrots, peeled and diced small
1 large red onion, diced small
1 pound new potatoes, scrubbed but not peeled, diced small
2 garlic cloves, chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cups dried green split peas
3 tablespoons Curry Powder
6 cups Vegetable Stock or Essential Chicken Stock
SUGGESTED GARNISHES
Plain yogurt (if using vegetable stock)
1 Preheat a slow cooker to Low.
2 Place a large sauté pan over medium heat. Lightly coat the bottom of the pan with olive oil. Sauté the carrots, onion, potatoes, and garlic in batches until lightly browned. Season each batch with salt and pepper. Do not overbrown the garlic. Transfer the vegetables to the slow cooker insert.
3 Add the split peas, curry powder, and stock to the insert. Stir to combine. Cover and cook on Low for 6 hours.
4 Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Ladle the soup into bowls. Serve with yogurt, if desired.
ONION SOUP
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
DAIRY
This remake of the classic French soup tastes smooth and full-flavored from its long cooking in the slow cooker. Good-quality cheese makes a big difference. The availability of fine kosher cheeses has grown considerably in the United States, but they are not yet carried by all grocery stores. Search online and experiment until you find what you like.
4 tablespoons (1⁄2 stick) unsalted butter
2 large Spanish onions, cut in half and very thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, chopped, plus 1 whole peeled garlic clove
2 teaspoons all-purpose flour
3 thyme sprigs
1⁄2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
2 bay leaves
3⁄4 cup dry white wine such as chardonnay
1 quart Vegetable Stock
11⁄2 cups water
Six 1⁄2-inch-thick diagonal baguette slices
1 cup shredded Gruyère or Swiss cheese
2 tablespoons finely grated Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Preheat a slow cooker to High.
2 Melt the butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onions and cook slowly until the onions are very soft and lightly caramelized, about 20 minutes. Add the garlic at the end of the cooking and cook for 5 minutes more.
3 Add the flour and stir over the heat for 3 minutes. Transfer the mixture to the slow cooker insert. Add the thyme, nutmeg, bay leaves, wine, stock, and water. Cover and cook on High for 4 hours.
4 Preheat the oven to 400ºF. Line a baking sheet with foil or parchment paper.
5 Just before serving, place the baguette slices on the baking sheet. Toast the baguette slices in the oven until they are lightly browned and crispy. Remove from the oven and allow them to cool slightly.
6 Rub the slices with the garlic clove. Divide the shredded cheese among the baguette slices. Sprinkle evenly with the Parmesan cheese. Place the baguette slices back in the oven and cook until the cheese has melted and is lightly browned.
7 Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Divide the soup among the serving bowls and top each bowl with a baguette slice.
MULLIGATAWNY
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
PAREVE or Dairy
The literal translation for mulligatawny is “pepper water.” The smoky mixture of curry and turmeric in this version helps it live up to its name.
At first glance the list of ingredients may seem a bit lengthy. However, this soup is a snap to put together. Curry leaves are not used to make curry powder but are used in many Indian dishes. Curry leaves can be found at Indian grocery stores and in the produce section of many grocery stores. They are used in the same manner in Indian cuisine as bay leaves are used in this country. These aromatic leaves have a citrus aroma that scents broths and this delicious soup. Basil leaves are a good substitute if you can’t find curry leaves. Chick pea flour is used as a thickener for this soup; it also adds nutrients and a bit of flavor. It is commonly found in many grocery stores and health food markets. Garnishing with yogurt makes it dairy.
1 medium red onion, chopped
2 medium carrots, peeled and diced
2 medium Idaho or russet potatoes, peeled and diced
2 small turnips, peeled and diced
Olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons Curry Powder
1⁄2 teaspoon ground turmeric
11⁄2 tablespoons chick pea flour (optional; see Sources)
6 cups Vegetable Stock
12 fresh curry leaves (see Sources) or 8 fresh basil leaves
One 28-ounce can whole peeled plum tomatoes with their juices, crushed
1 tablespoon grated peeled fresh ginger
One 13.5- to 14-ounce can unsweetened coconut milk
1 cup red lentils (see Sources)
SUGGESTED GARNISHES
Lime wedges, chopped cilantro, chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plain yogurt
1 Preheat a slow cooker to Low.
2 Brown the onion, carrots, potatoes, and turnips in batches over medium-high heat in a sauté pan lightly coated with olive oil. Season each batch with salt and pepper. Transfer the vegetables to the slow cooker insert.
3 Add the garlic, curry powder, turmeric, chick pea flour, stock, curry leaves, tomatoes with their juices, ginger, coconut milk, and lentils to the insert. Cover and cook on Low for 4 to 5 hours or on High for 3 hours until the lentils are creamy.
4 Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Ladle the soup into bowls or in a tureen and pass the garnishes.
TOMATO AND BASMATI RICE SOUP
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
MEAT or PAREVE
I could eat this soup every day. This particular version, one of my favorites, tastes a bit more exotic than the standard cream of tomato. The spices and fragrant basmati rice lend a perfumed quality and the natural starch from the rice makes the soup rich, thick, and creamy. For a full-flavored pareve version, use vegetable stock.
Olive oil
1 medium Spanish onion, diced
2 medium carrots, peeled and diced
1 large fennel bulb, trimmed and diced (reserve the fronds for garnish)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons Moroccan Spice Mix
Two 28-ounce cans whole peeled plum tomatoes with their juices, crushed
6 tablespoons tomato paste
6 cups Essential Chicken Stock or Vegetable Stock
1 cup white basmati rice
SUGGESTED GARNISHES
Charmoula, Harissa, chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped cilantro
1 Preheat a slow cooker to Low.
2 Place a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Lightly coat the bottom of the pan with olive oil. Brown the onion, carrots, and fennel in batches over medium heat. Season each batch with salt and pepper.
3 Add the garlic to the last batch of vegetables and lightly sauté it for 2 minutes more. Transfer the vegetables to the slow cooker insert.
4 Add the Moroccan Spice Mix, canned tomatoes and their juices, tomato paste, stock, and rice. Cover and cook on Low for 4 hours. Add more stock if the soup gets too thick. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.
5 Ladle the soup into bowls and pass the garnishes.
PASTA E FAGIOLI
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
MEAT
This Italian classic (pasta and beans) is a great example of how you can make a simple, delicious meal out of pantry staples. For this dish (and many others) using the right bean is essential—I prefer borlotti beans, which have a firm texture and sweet nutty flavor that pairs well with the soft pasta. However, if you cannot find borlotti beans, cranberry beans also work well.
11⁄2 cups dried borlotti beans or cranberry beans, sorted through and soaked overnight
Olive oil
1 pound ground beef
1 large Spanish onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3 tablespoons tomato paste
One 14- to 15-ounce can whole peeled plum tomatoes with their juices, crushed
1 teaspoon dried oregano
6 thyme sprigs
1 cup small pasta shells or other small shape
6 cups Essential Chicken Stock
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
SUGGESTED GARNISHES
Extra-virgin olive oil, chopped fresh herbs (flat-leaf parsley, oregano, thyme, basil)
1 Preheat a slow cooker to Low.
2 Drain and rinse the beans. Place the beans into the slow cooker insert.
3 Place a large sauté pan over medium heat. Lightly coat the bottom of the pan with olive oil. Brown the meat, breaking up any large clumps. With a slotted spoon, transfer the meat to the slow cooker insert.
4 Drain all but 1 tablespoon of fat out of the sauté pan. Add the onion to the sauté pan. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is lightly colored and soft, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic to the pan and cook for 3 minutes more.
5 Add the onion mixture, the tomato paste, tomatoes with their juices, oregano, thyme, pasta, and chicken stock to the insert. Stir to combine, cover, and cook on Low for 6 hours, until the beans are tender.
6 Remove the thyme stems. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle the soup into bowls. Drizzle each bowl of soup with extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle with herbs.
SWEET-AND-SOUR CABBAGE SOUP
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
MEAT
The beets in this soup turn it an incredibly gorgeous scarlet color, so don’t even think of leaving them out. Serve with a loaf of crusty bread and you have a comforting supper. I like to make a big batch and freeze it to eat again on a cold night.
Olive oil
1 pound beef chuck or stew meat, minced very fine
2 large Spanish onions, chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3 carrots, peeled and grated on the coarse side of a box grater
3 celery stalks, chopped
2 large red beets, peeled and grated on the coarse side of a box grater
One 28-ounce can plum tomatoes with their juices, crushed
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1⁄3 cup vinegar, preferably rice vinegar
1⁄2 cup sugar
2 quarts Essential Chicken Stock
1 large head green cabbage (about 3 pounds), quartered, cored, and very thinly sliced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Preheat a slow cooker to Low.
2 Lightly coat the bottom of a sauté pan with olive oil. Brown the meat over medium heat, stirring occasionally.
3 Add the onions and continue to cook until the onions are translucent and soft, about 5 minutes.
4 Add the garlic and continue to cook for 2 minutes more.
5 Transfer the meat mixture to the slow cooker insert. Add the carrots, celery, beets, tomatoes with their juices, tomato paste, vinegar, sugar, and chicken stock. Cover and cook on Low for 6 hours or on High for 4 hours.
6 Add the cabbage and cook for 1 hour more on High. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Ladle the soup into bowls.
SENEGALESE PEANUT SOUP
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
MEAT
I once had a staff member from Senegal who got teary in his descriptions of peanut soup and begged me to feature it on the menu. I finally made a batch. I must have nailed the flavors and texture of this rich African comfort food, because he asked me to write the recipe for him. I adapted the recipe for the slow cooker and it has been a family favorite ever since.
Brown the vegetables in small batches to ensure big flavor and appealing color and texture. The soup may be cooked two days ahead of serving and can stored, covered, in the refrigerator up to 3 days or frozen for up to 1 month.
Neutral-flavored oil such as canola
1 large sweet potato (about 1 pound), peeled and diced
1 small butternut squash (about 11⁄2 pounds), peeled and diced
2 medium Spanish onions, thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, minced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons Curry Powder
1 quart Essential Chicken Stock
One 14- to 15-ounce can diced tomatoes
2 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (about 8 ounces), cut into cubes
1 cup creamy peanut butter
11⁄4 cups unsweetened coconut milk
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
SUGGESTED GARNISHES
Chopped peanuts, chopped scallions, chopped parsley, chopped cilantro
1 Preheat a slow cooker to Low.
2 Place a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Lightly coat the bottom of the pan with oil. Sauté the sweet potato, squash, onions, and garlic in batches until they are browned, 5 to 7 minutes per batch. Season each batch with salt and pepper. Transfer the vegetables to the slow cooker insert.
3 Add the curry powder, chicken stock, tomatoes with their juices, chicken, and peanut butter to the insert. Stir to combine. Cover and cook on Low for 6 hours.
4 Stir in the coconut milk, cook long enough to heat, and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.
5 Ladle the soup into bowls and add your choice of garnishes.
ITALIAN PUMPKIN SOUP
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
DAIRY
There are as many variations of this soup—called crema di zucca in Italian—as there are shapes of pasta in Italy. I got this recipe from a friend who studied cooking in Tuscany. It is undeniably delicious. This dish makes a great alternative to the more common butternut squash soup. I serve it in on Sukkot (the Jewish harvest holiday), encased in a hollowed-out pumpkin for a dramatic presentation.
8 cups Vegetable Stock
1 ounce (1⁄4 cup) dried porcini mushrooms
Olive oil
One 7-pound sugar pumpkin, peeled, seeded, and diced (about 5 cups), or 3 cups canned pure pumpkin puree (not pumpkin pie mix)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
12 cipollini onions, peeled and cut in quarters
1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1 medium head savoy cabbage (about 11⁄2 pounds), quartered, cored, and very thinly sliced
1⁄2 cup heavy cream
SUGGESTED GARNISHES
Parmesan Crisps, 1⁄2 cup amaretti crumbs (optional)
1 Place 1 cup of the vegetable stock in a small saucepan with the dried porcini mushrooms. Bring to a simmer. Turn off the heat and set aside.
2 Preheat a slow cooker to Low.
3 If using diced pumpkin, place a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Lightly coat the bottom of the pan with oil. Brown the pumpkin in batches. Season each batch with salt and pepper. Transfer the pumpkin to the slow cooker insert. If using puree, simply pour it into the slow cooker insert.
4 Sauté the cipollini onions in olive oil (use the same pan, adding more olive oil if necessary) until golden. Transfer the onions to the insert.
5 Pass the soaked mushrooms and their soaking liquid through a strainer to remove any sediment that may be present. Set aside the mushroom pieces and reserve the soaking liquid—it is loaded with flavor.
6 Add the remaining stock, the porcini mushrooms, soaking liquid, and nutmeg to the slow cooker. Cover and cook on Low for 6 hours, until the pumpkin is very soft. If using canned pumpkin puree, cut the cooking time in half.
7 Puree the soup in batches, adding more stock if necessary. Return the soup to the slow cooker.
8 Add the cabbage and the cream to the soup. Cover and cook on High for 1 hour. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.
9 Ladle the soup into bowls and garnish with Parmesan crisps and amaretti crumbs, if using, right before serving.
ROASTED PARSNIP AND JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE SOUP
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
MEAT
The name Jerusalem artichoke is a misnomer. These bumpy tubers are the root of the sunflower plant, which is why they are also called sunchokes. They have a nutty, earthy flavor similar to an artichoke and when paired with sweet roasted parsnips, they are a match made in heaven.
8 large parsnips ( about 3 pounds), peeled and cut into large pieces
Olive oil
1 pound Jerusalem artichokes (about 10)
Juice of 1 lemon
3 medium shallots, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1⁄2 cup dry white wine such as chardonnay
2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
5 cups Essential Chicken Stock
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
SUGGESTED GARNISHES
1⁄4 cup chopped toasted hazelnuts, toasted hazelnut oil
1 Preheat the oven to 400ºF. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2 Drizzle the parsnip pieces with olive oil. Place the parsnips on the baking sheet. Roast in the oven for 45 minutes, until soft and lightly browned. Transfer the parsnips to the slow cooker insert.
3 While the parsnips are roasting, peel and dice the artichokes. Place the pieces in a bowl of cold water with the lemon juice to keep them from turning dark.
4 Preheat a slow cooker to Low.
5 Place a small sauté pan over medium-high heat. Lightly coat the bottom of the pan with olive oil. Sauté the shallots until they are slightly browned and soft. Add the garlic and cook for 2 minutes more. Add the wine to the pan and cook the mixture for 3 minutes. Add the wine-shallot mixture to the slow cooker insert. Drain the Jerusalem artichoke pieces and add them to the insert. Add the thyme and chicken stock to the insert.
6 Cover and cook on Low for 5 hours, until the Jerusalem artichokes and parsnips are very soft.
7 Puree the soup in batches or with an immersion blender until the soup is very creamy. Season with salt and pepper.
8 Ladle the soup into bowls and garnish with chopped toasted hazelnuts and a drizzle of toasted hazelnut oil.
WILD RICE AND TURKEY CHOWDER
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
MEAT
I love any recipe that uses wild rice. With a rich, nutty aroma and hearty texture, wild rice is the perfect cold weather addition to soups and stews. This recipe uses leftover turkey, but I think the soup is so heavenly fragrant with mushrooms and herbs that you will want to make turkey just as an excuse to make the soup.
Several tablespoons of turkey pan drippings or olive oil
3 medium celery stalks, diced
2 medium carrots, peeled and diced
8 ounces mushrooms, stems included, chopped
I large Spanish onion, diced
1 cup dry white wine (I prefer chardonnay)
1 ounce (1⁄4 cup) dried porcini mushrooms
2 cups wild rice
1 cup white basmati rice
5 cups Turkey Stock or Essential Chicken Stock
Bouquet garni of 3 fresh sage leaves, 6 parsley sprigs, 1 bay leaf, and 1 small rosemary sprig, tied together with kitchen twine
2 cups diced cooked turkey
SUGGESTED GARNISHES
Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped fresh sage
1 Preheat a slow cooker to Low.
2 Place a large sauté pan over medium heat. Lightly coat the bottom of the pan with the turkey drippings or olive oil. Sauté the celery, carrots, mushrooms, and onion in batches until lightly browned. Transfer the vegetables to the slow cooker insert.
3 Add the white wine to the pan and simmer for several minutes. Transfer the wine to the slow cooker insert. Add the porcini mushrooms, wild rice, basmati rice, stock, and bouquet garni to the slow cooker. Stir to combine. Cover and cook on Low for 5 hours, until the wild rice has split open and softened.
4 Remove 2 cups of the soup with rice in it. Puree until creamy. Add the pureed mixture back to the slow cooker and stir to combine. Add the cooked turkey, cover, and cook for 30 minutes more.
5 Remove the bouquet garni. Ladle the soup into bowls and garnish with parsley and sage.
CAULIFLOWER-APPLE SOUP WITH DUCK CONFIT
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
MEAT
This elegant chilly weather soup makes a perfect first course for a Sukkot (the Jewish harvest holiday) dinner or for any special occasion. The apples and cauliflower combine in style. You could serve the soup ungarnished and enjoy a chic, modern soup or add the duck confit and gild the lily with rich, silky texture and flavor.
The soup can be stored, covered, for up to 3 days, or frozen for up to 1 month. The garnish can be made up to 3 days ahead of serving and reheated in a sauté pan over low heat.
FOR THE SOUP
Olive oil
2 medium Spanish onions, diced
2 garlic cloves, diced
1 large head of cauliflower (about 11⁄2 pounds), trimmed and cut into florets
3 large sweet apples (about 1 pound), such as Honeycrisp, cored, peeled, and diced
1⁄2 cup fruity white wine such as chenin blanc
3 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
5 cups Essential Chicken Stock
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE DUCK CONFIT
1 teaspoon duck fat or olive oil
1⁄3 cup shredded Duck Confit, meat only
1 medium shallot, chopped
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme
1 small firm apple such as Honeycrisp, peeled, cored and diced
SUGGESTED GARNISHES
Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped fresh thyme
1 Make the Soup. Preheat a slow cooker to Low. Place a large sauté pan over medium-low heat. Lightly coat the bottom of the pan with olive oil. Cook the onions, stirring occasionally, until they are very soft and browned, about 20 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 3 minutes more. Transfer the onions to the slow cooker insert.
2 Lightly recoat the same pan with additional olive oil. Increase the heat to medium. Add the cauliflower and apples to the pan. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the cauliflower and apples are soft and lightly browned, about 10 minutes.
3 Add the wine to the pan. Increase the heat to medium-high and gently scrape up any browned bits (sucs) with a wooden spatula. Transfer the wine, cauliflower, and apples to the slow cooker insert. Add the thyme and chicken stock. Cover and cook on Low for 5 hours until the cauliflower is very soft.
4 Make the Duck Confit. Place a small sauté pan over medium heat. Add the duck fat. Add the shredded duck, shallot, thyme, and apple, and sauté until the apple pieces are lightly browned and soft, about 10 minutes. Keep warm.
5 Puree the soup in batches or use a stick blender. Season the soup with salt and pepper. Ladle the soup into bowls and garnish with a heaping tablespoon of the duck and apple mixture. Sprinkle with the chopped parsley and thyme.
BISON CHILI
MAKES 12 SERVINGS
MEAT
I originally made this chili with chunks of bison meat, but my customers craved the ground meat texture they grew up with. So I compromised by combining the two and voilà, everyone was happy. I use bison for this recipe due to the meat’s sweet and fuller flavor. Most bison are grass-fed and are naturally lower in fat than beef. While beef will work perfectly well, I urge you to look for bison and give it a try (see Sources).
I like to add Anaheim chiles for a pleasant toasty heat. If you are unsure about chiles, add just a few peppers your first time trying the dish. Most of the heat comes from the seeds and veins inside the chile, so remove those if you prefer a less spicy dish.
In our house, we commonly grate dark chocolate as a garnish for chili. The chocolate is not meant to sweeten the chili, but to heighten the sweetness of the meat and the earthiness of the chiles. It might seem strange at first, but use your finest bittersweet chocolate and you may start a new tradition in your home.
The chili can be stored, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days or may be frozen for up to 3 months.
Olive oil
2 pounds bison shoulder meat (see Notes), cut into 1-inch chunks
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 pounds ground bison (see Note)
2 large red onions, diced
6 garlic cloves, minced
6 Anaheim chiles, stemmed, seeded, and chopped (see Sources)
3 cups dried pinto beans, sorted through and soaked overnight
2 ancho chiles, stemmed, seeded, toasted, and torn into pieces (see Sources)
1 chipotle chile (see Note)
2 tablespoons ground cumin
2 tablespoons ground coriander
1 tablespoon hot pimenton (see Note)
One 28- to 29-ounce can tomato puree
6 tablespoons tomato paste
One 28-ounce can whole peeled plum tomatoes with their juices
3 cups Dark Chicken Stock
2 cups dark beer such as Guinness or Aventinus
SUGGESTED GARNISHES
Fresh or thawed corn kernels (cooked), lime wedges, tortilla chips, chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped fresh cilantro, chopped scallions, chopped jalapeño peppers, chopped red onions, grated dark chocolate
1 Preheat a 61⁄2-quart slow cooker to Low.
2 Place a large heavy sauté pan over medium heat. Lightly coat the bottom of the pan with olive oil. Season the bison chunks with salt and pepper. Brown the bison chunks in batches. Transfer the bison chunks to the slow cooker insert. Add the ground bison and continue browning until the meat is lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Transfer the ground bison to the insert.
3 Add the onions to the sauté pan and cook until they are caramelized and soft. Add the garlic and Anaheim chiles and cook until the garlic is very fragrant and slightly softened. Be careful not to overbrown the garlic. Add the onion mixture to the insert.
4 Drain the beans and add them to the insert. Add the ancho chiles, chipotle chile, cumin, coriander, pimenton, tomato puree, tomato paste, crushed tomatoes with their juices, chicken stock, and beer. Stir to combine. Cook on Low for 6 to 8 hours, until the beans are tender.
5 Remove the chipotle chile before serving. Ladle the chili into bowls and serve hot, with your choice of garnishes.
NOTES
Many kosher butchers and grocery stores now carry bison. Bison can also be found online. (See Sources.)
Chipotle chiles are smoked jalapeño peppers. They can be found with a hechsher (kosher certification) online (see Sources).
Pimenton is a Spanish smoked paprika. It is really not comparable to the paprika found in most grocery stores. It may be sweet or hot, and has a wonderful smokiness essential to paella, chorizo, and other Spanish delicacies. Pimenton can be found readily online or at specialty markets. (See Sources.)