2- TO 3½-QUART
1½ pounds tomatillos, husks removed, rinsed
2 fresh serrano or small jalapeño chiles
1¼ pounds boneless pork shoulder, cut into 2-inch chunks
¼ cup minced yellow onion
1 tsp minced garlic
½ tsp cumin seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
2 tblsp minced cilantro leaves
1 tblsp fresh lime juice
¼ tsp salt
4- TO 5½-QUART
3 pounds tomatillos, husks removed, rinsed
4 fresh serrano or small jalapeño chiles
2½ pounds boneless pork shoulder, cut into 2-inch chunks
½ cup minced yellow onion
2 tsp minced garlic
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
¼ cup minced cilantro leaves
2 tblsp fresh lime juice
½ tsp salt
6- TO 8-QUART
4½ pounds tomatillos, husks removed, rinsed
6 fresh serrano or small jalapeño chiles
4 pounds boneless pork shoulder, cut into 2-inch chunks
¾ cup minced yellow onion
1 tblsp minced garlic
½ tblsp cumin seeds
½ tblsp fennel seeds
6 tblsp minced cilantro leaves
3 tblsp fresh lime juice
½ tsp salt
1 Position the rack 4 to 6 inches from the broiler; preheat the broiler. Halve the tomatillos and set them cut side down on a large rimmed baking sheet along with the chiles. Broil the tomatillos and chiles until they begin to blister and brown, about 5 minutes, turning the chiles once. Remove the tray from the broiler and cool on a wire rack for 15 minutes.
2 Stem and seed the chiles, then chop them and the tomatillos. Scrape both into the slow cooker, and stir in the pork, onion, garlic, cumin seeds, and fennel seeds.
3 Cover and cook on low for 8 hours, or until the pork is tender enough to be cut with your worst knife. Stir in the cilantro, lime juice, and salt before serving.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• This pork is stewed, not braised. Expect a lot of liquid here—it’s not a soup, but definitely is soupy.
• Don’t be tempted to use canned tomatillos. Their flavors will have dulled too far. Most large supermarkets carry tomatillos in the summer; almost all Latin American markets carry them year round.
• There’s plenty of flavor in those caramelized brown bits still on the baking sheet. If you want, add a tablespoon or two of chicken broth while the pan is still hot and stir well to dissolve, then pour it all into the slow cooker along with the other ingredients.
INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED Beware enhanced meat! Many markets inject pork shoulders and other larger cuts with a briny solution of broth, salt, monosodium glutamate (MSG, which can be labeled as “natural flavors” in the United States), and other additives, always shown as containing some “percent of a solution.” It’s all supposed to create a juicier, more flavorful roast; but this chemical engineering is unnecessary when you’re working with a slow cooker, which holds the juices at a low temperature, tenderizing the meat without losing flavor. You can almost always avoid this problem with organic meat, but read labels carefully in any event. If you do use injected pork, you may well end up with a much soupier dinner.
Serve It Up! This Southwestern stew makes a fine dinner with cornbread or polenta. But it would also be great as a breakfast. Make it overnight, then serve it in bowls with poached eggs set on top.
2- TO 3½-QUART
½ tblsp unsalted butter
1 pound boneless pork shoulder, cut into 2-inch cubes
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp ground black pepper
¼ cup chopped yellow onion
¼ cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 cup (about 3 ounces) thinly sliced cremini or brown button mushrooms
2 fresh thyme sprigs
1 4-inch rosemary sprigs
2 tblsp heavy cream
2 tsp minced chives
4- TO 5½-QUART
1 tblsp unsalted butter
2 pounds boneless pork shoulder, cut into 2-inch cubes
½ tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
½ cup chopped yellow onion
½ cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
1½ cups (about 5 ounces) thinly sliced cremini or brown button mushrooms
3 fresh thyme sprigs
1 4-inch rosemary sprigs
¼ cup heavy cream
1 tblsp minced chives
6- TO 8-QUART
2 tblsp unsalted butter
4 pounds boneless pork shoulder, cut into 2-inch cubes
1 tsp salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
1 cup (about 1 medium) chopped yellow onion
1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
3 cups (about 10 ounces) thinly sliced cremini or brown button mushrooms
4 fresh thyme sprigs
2 4-inch rosemary sprigs
½ cup heavy cream
2 tblsp minced chives
1 Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Season the pork chunks with salt and pepper; brown them in batches, turning them only after they’ve got a golden color, about 8 minutes per batch. Transfer the chunks to the slow cooker and continue browning as necessary.
2 Dump the onion into the skillet. Stir a few times, then pour in the broth. Raise the heat to medium-high and bring the broth to a simmer, scraping up any browned bits in the skillet. Pour the contents of the skillet into the slow cooker. Stir in the mushrooms; push the thyme and rosemary into the sauce.
3 Cover and cook on low for 8 hours, or until the pork is gorgeously tender.
4 Transfer the pork chunks to a serving bowl or platter. Discard the rosemary and thyme sprigs. Defat the sauce in the cooker, using a flatware spoon to skim its surface.
5 Pour the sauce into a medium saucepan; bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Stir in the cream and chives; boil for 2 minutes, stirring quite often. Spoon some sauce over the meat and pass more at the table.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• The mushrooms aren’t cooked down to lose their moisture before they go into the slow cooker. That extra juice helps create the sauce—which is further concentrated after the pork has cooked.
• The onion is not softened in the skillet, just warmed; instead, it is partly stewed in the broth, giving it a more assertive flavor, a better match with the sweet cream.
2- TO 3½-QUART
1 pound boneless pork butt
2 tblsp orange marmalade
4 tsp soy sauce
½ tblsp no-salt-added tomato paste
1 tsp cider vinegar
⅛ tsp ground cloves
⅛ tsp red pepper flakes
4- TO 5½-QUART
2 pounds boneless pork butt
¼ cup orange marmalade
2½ tblsp soy sauce
1 tblsp no-salt-added tomato paste
½ tblsp cider vinegar
¼ tsp ground cloves
¼ tsp red pepper flakes
6- TO 8-QUART
4 pounds boneless pork butt
½ cup orange marmalade
⅓ cup soy sauce
2 tblsp no-salt-added tomato paste
1 tblsp cider vinegar
½ tsp ground cloves
½ tsp red pepper flakes
1 Set the pork butt in the slow cooker. Whisk the marmalade, soy sauce, tomato paste, vinegar, cloves, and red pepper flakes in a bowl until fairly smooth; smear the mixture over the exposed bits of the pork.
2 Cover and cook on low for 6 hours in a small slow cooker, 8 hours in a medium cooker, or 10 hours in a large one, or until the meat is quite tender but not yet shreddable. Let rest for 10 minutes uncovered with the cooker turned off, then portion the meat into large chunks, or transfer it to a cutting board and slice it into more manageable pieces.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• A pork butt is often used interchangeably with a pork shoulder. However, we feel the shoulder bone imparts great flavor to pulled pork and other dishes; we save the somewhat fattier, more decadent boneless pork butt for over-the-top roasts like this one.
• They’ll be plenty of juice in the cooker after the pork roasts, but it’s mostly fat and a little too oily for a good gravy.
INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED Despite an evocative name, the pork butt is taken from nowhere near the back end of a pig; instead, it’s from the front quarter, a fairly fatty cut. To be specific, the butt is the slightly thicker section of meat from the front shoulder, rather than the more pyramidal bit often called (confusingly!) the pork shoulder. Despite some minor differences, a Boston butt is just about the same thing as a pork butt; either will work here.
2- TO 3½-QUART
3 small garlic cloves, peeled
3 fresh sage leaves
1¼ pounds boneless pork butt
1 tblsp coarse-grained mustard
1 tblsp packed dark brown sugar
½ tblsp blended whiskey
½ tsp Worcestershire sauce
4- TO 5½-QUART
5 small garlic cloves, peeled
5 fresh sage leaves
2½ pounds boneless pork butt
2 tblsp coarse-grained mustard
2 tblsp packed dark brown sugar
1 tblsp blended whiskey
1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
6- TO 8-QUART
10 small garlic cloves, peeled
10 fresh sage leaves
5 pounds boneless pork butt
¼ cup coarse-grained mustard
¼ cup packed dark brown sugar
2 tblsp blended whiskey
2 tsp Worcestershire sauce
1 Halve the garlic cloves and sage leaves. Count the total number of pieces you’ve got (12, 20, or 40). Use the tip of a paring knife to make that number of small, thin slits all over the pork butt; insert a piece of garlic or a folded sage leaf into each hole.
2 Mix the mustard, brown sugar, whiskey, and Worcestershire sauce in a small bowl until the brown sugar almost dissolves. Smear the mixture all over the pork. Set it in a large baking dish; cover tightly with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 12 hours or up to 24 hours.
3 Unwrap the pork roast and set it out on the counter for 30 minutes.
4 Put the roast in the slow cooker, cover, and cook on low for 7 hours in a small slow cooker, 9 hours in a medium cooker, or 11 hours in a large cooker, or until the meat is fork-tender but not yet completely falling apart.
5 Using large tongs or a spatula, transfer the roast to a cutting board and let it rest for 10 minutes. Carve it into slices for serving, even those pieces that fall off.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• Use a blended whiskey here, a sturdy, fairly dry mix without a lot of aged oakiness in tow. Do not substitute bourbon—too sweet a finish.
• Dijon mustard is simply too assertive and won’t let the other flavors come through. A coarse-grained mustard still gives that piquant hit without overpowering subtler notes.
INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED Technically, whiskey comes from the United States or Ireland; whisky comes from everywhere else, from Scotland to India, Canada to New Zealand. Use an American or Irish blended whiskey, sturdier in its flavor to stand up to the long cooking, rather than a fancy single malt.
2- TO 3½-QUART
¼ cup soy sauce
¼ cup Hoisin sauce
¼ cup honey
2 tblsp no-salt-added tomato paste
1 tblsp rice vinegar
2 tsp toasted sesame oil
2 tsp minced garlic
2 tsp minced peeled fresh ginger
½ tsp five-spice powder
½ tsp celery seeds
½ tsp ground cloves
2 pounds boneless pork butt
4- TO 5½-QUART
½ cup soy sauce
½ cup Hoisin sauce
½ cup honey
¼ cup no-salt-added tomato paste
2 tblsp rice vinegar
1½ tblsp toasted sesame oil
4 tsp minced garlic
4 tsp minced peeled fresh ginger
1 tsp five-spice powder
1 tsp celery seeds
1 tsp ground cloves
4 pounds boneless pork butt
6- TO 8-QUART
¾ cup soy sauce
¾ cup Hoisin sauce
¾ cup honey
6 tblsp no-salt-added tomato paste
3 tblsp rice vinegar
2 tblsp toasted sesame oil
2 tblsp minced garlic
2 tblsp minced peeled fresh ginger
½ tblsp five-spice powder
1¼ tsp celery seeds
1¼ tsp ground cloves
6 pounds boneless pork butt
1 Whisk the soy sauce, hoisin sauce, honey, tomato paste, vinegar, sesame oil, garlic, ginger, five-spice powder, celery seeds, and cloves in the slow cooker until the honey and tomato paste have dissolved. Set the pork in the slow cooker; turn to coat all sides.
2 Cover and cook on low for 7 hours in a small slow cooker, 9 hours in a medium cooker, or 12 hours in a large cooker, or until the meat is far beyond tender, well into the fabled realm of pulled pork.
3 Transfer the pork from the cooker to a large cutting board. Take care: it can come apart at the seams.
4 Skim the fat off the sauce in the slow cooker; pour the skimmed juices into a large saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring frequently. Boil the juices until they thicken into a sauce, stirring fairly often, between 3 and 8 minutes.
5 Shred the pork with two forks; transfer the shredded meat to a serving bowl. Drizzle the sauce over the meat and pass extra on the side for dunking and dipping.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• This is a sweet, sticky barbecue, best served over white rice. Also, have some rice vinegar on the table for sprinkling on the meat.
• You can chop the meat into small bits to stuff into pork buns or pork dumplings. Or freeze any leftovers and thaw them for a day when you’re feeling ambitious.
INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED Sesame oil is available in two varieties: toasted and untoasted (or sometimes called “dark” and “light”). The former is more aromatic, tastier in fact; the latter, a tad more esoteric, available at high-end supermarkets and Asian grocery stores. We call for only toasted sesame oil.
Because of complex chemical interactions, it can go rancid rather quickly. Open the bottle when you get it home from the supermarket. If you detect a funky, musky tang, take the bottle back for a refund. Once opened, refrigerate it, sealed, for up to 6 months. It will solidify after being chilled; run the sealed jar under warm tap water to loosen up as much as you need.
Serve It Up! Have a salad on the side, made from thinly sliced radishes, thinly sliced mango, and jícama matchsticks, dressed with a little toasted sesame oil, white wine vinegar, red pepper flakes, and crunchy sea salt.
2- TO 3½-QUART
2 pounds bone-in country-style pork ribs
2 tblsp maple syrup
2 tblsp soy sauce
½ tsp onion powder
¼ tsp ground allspice
¼ tsp ground cinnamon
¼ tsp ground cloves
¼ tsp ground black pepper
4- TO 5½-QUART
4 pounds bone-in country-style pork ribs
¼ cup maple syrup
¼ cup soy sauce
1 tsp onion powder
½ tsp ground allspice
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp ground cloves
½ tsp ground black pepper
6- TO 8-QUART
6 pounds bone-in country-style pork ribs
6 tblsp maple syrup
6 tblsp soy sauce
½ tblsp onion powder
½ tblsp ground allspice
½ tblsp ground cinnamon
1¼ tsp ground cloves
1¼ tsp ground black pepper
1 Put the ribs in the slow cooker. Whisk the maple syrup, soy sauce, onion powder, allspice, cinnamon, cloves, and pepper in a bowl; pour over the ribs.
2 Cover and cook on low for 8 hours, or until the pork is falling-off-the-bone tender.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• Break out the napkins! This sauce turns these economical pork ribs into a decadent feast.
• Layer the country-style ribs as evenly as possible in the slow cooker so they all have an equal chance to be smothered in the sauce. If some are stacked out of the sauce, swap their places halfway through cooking, particularly in a round slow cooker.
INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED Country-style pork ribs, cut from the sirloin end of the pork loin, are meaty ribs, not at all like those used for the standard barbecued pork ribs or baby back ribs, but more like fatty, narrow pork chops. Country-style ribs are sold both bone-in and boneless—we prefer the bone-in variety in most slow cooker recipes because the bone imparts so much flavor. Country-style ribs are often sold in a large slab, particularly at big-box stores. These should be divided into individual ribs, each with a bone (you can ask the butcher to do it for you). Plan on each bone-in country-style rib weighing about ½ pound.
2- TO 3½-QUART
1 medium apples (such as Empire or Granny Smith), peeled, cored, and thinly sliced
1 small red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced
1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced
2 pounds bone-in country-style pork ribs
6 tblsp reduced-sodium chicken broth
½ tblsp mild smoked paprika
1 tsp caraway seeds
1 tsp ground cumin
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
4- TO 5½-QUART
2 medium apples (such as Empire or Granny Smith), peeled, cored, and thinly sliced
1 medium red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced
1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
3½ pounds bone-in country-style pork ribs
⅔ cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 tblsp mild smoked paprika
2 tsp caraway seeds
2 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground cinnamon
¾ tsp salt
¾ tsp ground black pepper
6- TO 8-QUART
3 medium apples (such as Empire or Granny Smith), peeled, cored, and thinly sliced
2 medium red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced
1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
5 pounds bone-in country-style pork ribs
1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
1½ tblsp mild smoked paprika
1 tblsp caraway seeds
1 tblsp ground cumin
1¼ tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
1 Toss the apple, bell pepper, and onion in the slow cooker; make an even layer across the bottom. Lay the ribs on top, overlapping as necessary.
2 Whisk the broth, paprika, caraway seeds, cumin, cinnamon, salt, and pepper in a bowl; pour over the ribs.
3 Cover and cook on low for 8 hours, or until the pork is fork-tender right at the bone.
4 Transfer the ribs to a cutting board. Use a slotted spoon to fish out and then mound the vegetables on a serving platter as a bed for the ribs; set the ribs on top. Skim the sauce in the cooker for any surface fat, then dribble the sauce on top of the ribs.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• Country-style ribs are incredibly forgiving, what with all that wonderful fat and collagen melting into the sauce. The best preparations use simple techniques to meld big flavors.
• These ribs freeze exceptionally well. Seal portions in containers and store in the freezer for up to 6 months. Thaw, then reheat the ribs, sauce, and everything else in a microwave-safe bowl or tightly sealed aluminum foil packet in a 350°F oven for 20 minutes.
INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED Smoked paprika is a Spanish and Portuguese favorite, now common in all supermarkets in North America. It’s made from dried smoked chiles. It actually comes in several varieties, based on the heat of those chiles as well as the fineness of the grind. We call for only finely ground sweet smoked paprika in this book. Smoked paprika will last about 9 months if stored in a sealed container in a dry, cool place, before the intense flavors begin to fade.
2- TO 3½-QUART
1 small orange, thinly sliced into rings and seeded
2 fresh thyme sprigs
1 tsp fennel seeds
1 tblsp olive oil
2 pounds bone-in country-style pork ribs
½ tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
1 cup dry red wine, such as Syrah
2 tsp honey
4- TO 5½-QUART
1 medium orange, thinly sliced into rings and seeded
4 fresh thyme sprigs
1¾ tsp fennel seeds
2 tblsp olive oil
3½ pounds bone-in country-style pork ribs
¾ tsp salt
¾ tsp ground black pepper
1¾ cups dry red wine, such as Syrah
1½ tblsp honey
6- TO 8-QUART
2 medium orange, thinly sliced into rings and seeded
6 fresh thyme sprigs
2½ tsp fennel seeds
3 tblsp olive oil
5 pounds bone-in country-style pork ribs
1 tsp salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
2½ cups dry red wine, such as Syrah
2 tblsp honey
1 Lay the orange slices in the bottom of the slow cooker. Lay the thyme sprigs on top and sprinkle the fennel seeds evenly over both.
2 Set a large skillet over medium heat for a few minutes, then swirl in the olive oil. Season the ribs with salt and pepper then slip in a few—as many as will fit without crowding—to brown on all four sides, about 10 minutes per batch. Transfer the ribs to the slow cooker and continue browning as necessary.
3 Pour the wine over everything in the slow cooker, then cover and cook on low for 8 hours, or until the meat almost separates from the bone on each rib. If some ribs sit in the juices while others are more exposed, switch their places halfway through cooking.
4 Transfer the ribs to a serving platter or plates. Remove and discard the orange slices and thyme from the slow cooker; skim the fat off the sauce or pour it into a fat separator, and wait a couple of minutes. In any event, pour the strained sauce into a small saucepan, stir in the honey, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Boil until reduced by half, stirring frequently; then spoon the sauce over the ribs.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• We brown the country-style ribs in this recipe to pump up the flavors a bit, a better match for the more assertive ingredients that make up the sauce.
• Feel free to substitute rosemary or marjoram sprigs for the thyme.
2- TO 3½-QUART
1 pound bone-in country-style pork ribs
1¼ cups no-salt-added canned crushed tomatoes
1¼ cups Italian-seasoned canned diced tomatoes
⅔ cup thinly sliced yellow onions
⅔ cup Seeded, stemmed, and thinly sliced green bell peppers
⅓ cup dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio
2 tblsp no-salt-added tomato paste
2 tsp dried oregano
2 tsp dried basil
2 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
1 tsp dried rosemary
1 tsp dried thyme
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp ground black pepper
⅛ tsp grated nutmeg
4- TO 5½-QUART
2 pounds bone-in country-style pork ribs
2⅓ cups no-salt-added canned crushed tomatoes
2⅓ cups Italian-seasoned canned diced tomatoes
1⅓ cups thinly sliced yellow onions
1⅓ cups Seeded, stemmed, and thinly sliced green bell peppers
⅔ cup dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio
¼ cup no-salt-added tomato paste
4 tsp dried oregano
4 tsp dried basil
3 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
2 tsp dried rosemary
2 tsp dried thyme
½ tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
¼ tsp grated nutmeg
6- TO 8-QUART
3 pounds bone-in country-style pork ribs
3½ cups no-salt-added canned crushed tomatoes
3½ cups Italian-seasoned canned diced tomatoes
2 cups thinly sliced yellow onions
2 cups Seeded, stemmed, and thinly sliced green bell peppers
1 cup dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio
6 tblsp no-salt-added tomato paste
2 tblsp dried oregano
2 tblsp dried basil
4 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
1 tblsp dried rosemary
1 tblsp dried thyme
1 tsp salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
½ tsp grated nutmeg
1 Position the rack in the center of the oven; heat the oven to 450°F. Set the ribs on a large, rimmed baking sheet. Brown them in the oven for about 20 minutes, turning occasionally, until the rendered fat on the tray is beginning to sizzle.
2 Use tongs to transfer the ribs to the slow cooker. Stir in the tomatoes, diced tomatoes, onions, bell peppers, wine, tomato paste, oregano, basil, garlic, rosemary, thyme, salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
3 Cover and cook on low for 10 hours, or until the meat won’t even stay on the bones.
4 Use tongs and a big spoon to transfer the ribs from the cooker to a large cutting board. Take care—they may well fall apart. Cool for 10 minutes. Keep the slow cooker covered and on low.
5 Debone the meat and chop it into small bits. Stir it back into the sauce in the cooker.
6 Cook on high, uncovered, for 2 hours, or until the entire stew has thickened somewhat.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• A recipe just like your nonna used to make, this is the classic pasta sauce reconstructed for the slow cooker. It takes all day, just as her sauce would. But you don’t have to stir as frequently.
• The ribs are browned in the oven, not just in a skillet on the stovetop, in an attempt to burn some flavor into the bones themselves, not just brown the meat.
• Only dried herbs will do here; don’t be tempted to use fresh. The dried ones have a subtler, milder, somewhat darker taste.
• Take care that you pick all the bones out of the ribs, including any extraneous bits left from careless butchering.
• This sauce freezes well. Cool for about 30 minutes, then ladle it into zip-closed bags or plastic containers, seal, and store in the freezer for up to 6 months. Thaw in the fridge overnight, then reheat in a covered saucepan set over low heat until hot and bubbling.
Serve It Up! You’ll need cooked pasta—pappardelle, spinach fettuccini, or perhaps a shape like farfalle or ziti. And add lots of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.
2- TO 3½-QUART
1 small yellow onion, chopped
1½ tblsp cider vinegar
1 tblsp minced peeled fresh ginger
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp dry mustard
½ tsp salt
¼ tsp ground cardamom
¼ tsp cayenne
⅛ tsp ground cloves
2 pounds bone-in country-style pork ribs
2 tsp peanut oil
¼ cup thinly sliced peeled garlic
¼ cup sweet white wine, such as German Auslese
4- TO 5½-QUART
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
2½ tblsp cider vinegar
4 tsp minced peeled fresh ginger
½ tblsp ground coriander
½ tblsp ground cumin
½ tblsp dry mustard
1 tsp salt
½ tsp ground cardamom
½ tsp cayenne
¼ tsp ground cloves
3½ pounds bone-in country-style pork ribs
1 tblsp peanut oil
⅓ cup thinly sliced peeled garlic
6 tblsp sweet white wine, such as German Auslese
6- TO 8-QUART
1 large yellow onion, chopped
⅓ cup cider vinegar
2½ tblsp minced peeled fresh ginger
2½ tsp ground coriander
2½ tsp ground cumin
2¼ tsp dry mustard
1¼ tsp salt
¾ tsp ground cardamom
¾ tsp cayenne
½ tsp ground cloves
5 pounds bone-in country-style pork ribs
2 tblsp peanut oil
½ cup thinly sliced peeled garlic
⅔ cup sweet white wine, such as German Auslese
1 Mix the onion, vinegar, ginger, coriander, cumin, mustard, salt, cardamom, cayenne, and cloves in the slow cooker. Add the ribs; toss repeatedly to coat thoroughly.
2 Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat for a few minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring often, until the garlic blisters and even browns a bit at its edges. Spoon the contents of the skillet over everything in the slow cooker. Drizzle the wine on top.
3 Cover and cook on low for 8 hours, or until the pork is aromatic, sweet, and ridiculously tender. Transfer the pork ribs to a serving platter or plates; skim any fat off the sauce in the cooker and serve it on the side.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• Blistering the garlic takes it beyond the sweet, adding bitter notes. These will mellow in the cooker but still provide a bit of sophistication in a very aromatic dish.
• Although this dish freezes fairly well, the texture of the pork is uncompromised after the thaw but the spices will dull a bit. Stir lemon juice or white wine vinegar into portions before reheating to brighten the flavors.
Serve It Up! Can’t get enough garlic? Fry slivered garlic and cumin seeds in peanut oil in a skillet over medium heat until the garlic browns and the cumin seeds start to pop, stirring often. Spoon this over the top of the stew.
2- TO 3½-QUART
1½ pounds bone-in country-style pork ribs
½ cup red ale
1 tblsp minced fresh rosemary leaves
1 tsp finely grated lemon zest
1 tsp minced garlic
½ pound carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
½ pound parsnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp ground black pepper
4- TO 5½-QUART
2½ pounds bone-in country-style pork ribs
1 cup red ale
2 tblsp minced fresh rosemary leaves
2 tsp finely grated lemon zest
2 tsp minced garlic
¾ pound carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
¾ pound parsnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
½ tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
6- TO 8-QUART
4 pounds bone-in country-style pork ribs
2 cups red ale
3 tblsp minced fresh rosemary leaves
1 tblsp finely grated lemon zest
1 tblsp minced garlic
1¼ pounds carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
1¼ pounds parsnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
¾ tsp salt
¾ tsp ground black pepper
1 Combine the ribs, ale, rosemary, lemon zest, and garlic in a big bowl. Cover and refrigerate for 12 hours or up to 16 hours, tossing occasionally so the ribs swap places in the marinade.
2 Pour everything from the bowl into the slow cooker; let stand uncovered at room temperature for 20 minutes.
3 Stir in the carrots, parsnips, salt, and pepper.
4 Cover and cook on low for 8 hours, or until the pork is fork-tender, particularly at the bone. Use tongs or a large slotted spoon to transfer the ribs and vegetables to a serving platter or plates. Defat the sauce by skimming it with a spoon; drizzle it over the ribs and vegetables.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• If you have a slow cooker with a removable insert, marinate the ribs in the ale and aromatics overnight, covered, in the fridge. Since the container itself will be chilly, let it all stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before proceeding with the recipe. You may also have to add up to 1 hour to the cooking time, depending on how quickly your appliance takes the chill off everything.
• If you find rosemary too assertive in this dish, try minced marjoram leaves.
• Use a red ale, not a red cola! The best red ales come from Ireland or Belgium, although a few U.S. producers have gotten into the game. They add a pleasing, herbaceous bitterness to a very smooth, moderately sweet finish.
2- TO 3½-QUART
1½ tblsp packed dark brown sugar
½ tsp mild smoked paprika
¼ tsp dry mustard
¼ tsp ground ginger
¼ tsp salt
1½ pounds baby back ribs, cut into 2- or 4-bone sections
½ cup (about 1 small) thinly sliced yellow onion
½ 4-inch cinnamon stick
¼ cup dark rum, such as Myers’s
1 tblsp no-salt-added tomato paste
1 tblsp honey
½ tblsp cider vinegar
4- TO 5½-QUART
1 tblsp packed dark brown sugar
1 tsp mild smoked paprika
½ tsp dry mustard
½ tsp ground ginger
½ tsp salt
3½ pounds baby back ribs, cut into 2- or 4-bone sections
1 cup thinly sliced yellow onion
1 4-inch cinnamon stick
½ cup dark rum, such as Myers’s
2 tblsp no-salt-added tomato paste
2 tblsp honey
1 tblsp cider vinegar
6- TO 8-QUART
2 tblsp packed dark brown sugar
2 tsp mild smoked paprika
1 tsp dry mustard
1 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp salt
6 pounds baby back ribs, cut into 2- or 4-bone sections
1½ cups thinly sliced yellow onion
2 4-inch cinnamon stick
¾ cup dark rum, such as Myers’s
3 tblsp no-salt-added tomato paste
3 tblsp honey
1½ tblsp cider vinegar
1 Mix the brown sugar, paprika, mustard, ginger, and salt in a small bowl; rub the mixture onto the ribs. Set them in the slow cooker, stacking them with a little airspace between the ribs, standing them on their sides or overlapping as necessary.
2 Add the onion and cinnamon stick to the cooker, placing them on and around the ribs.
3 Whisk the rum, tomato paste, honey, and vinegar in a small bowl; pour over the ribs.
4 Cover and cook on low for 8 hours, or until the ribs are very tender and can be pulled apart at the base of each section.
5 Move the ribs to a serving platter. Discard the cinnamon stick. Defat the sauce in the cooker by skimming it with a spoon, then pour the sauce into a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring often. Boil until reduced by half, continuing to stir with even a little more urgency, then drizzle some of the sauce on the ribs and pass the rest on the side for the dippers in the crowd.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• This sticky, sweet barbecue sauce is a great match for pork ribs. Best of all, you don’t have to make the sauce stovetop; it melds into a sauce right in the cooker.
• We cut the ribs into sections so they’ll fit into any shape cooker. Although it’s easy to separate the racks into individual ribs once the connective tissue has melted, it can be tough work separating them while they’re still raw. It you want to simplify the job, have the supermarket’s butcher do it for you—although you’ll have to know the approximate dimensions of your cooker so you can tell him just how many ribs to leave connected in each section.
INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED Baby back ribs—also called loin ribs or Canadian back ribs—are the ribs right off the backbone, above the spare ribs but often taken from smaller hogs. They have become the quintessential rib rack in the United States. Baby back ribs offer sweet, fatty bits of meat between the rib bones, perfect for gnawing. So take your time! Some wet paper towels will come in handy at the table.
4- TO 5½-QUART
⅓ cup chopped dried apricots
⅓ cup packed light brown sugar
2 tblsp Dijon mustard
½ tsp ground cinnamon
¼ tsp ground cloves
¼ tsp grated nutmeg
4 pounds bone-in smoked ham, butt or shank end
6- TO 8-QUART
½ cup chopped dried apricots
½ cup packed light brown sugar
3 tblsp Dijon mustard
¾ tsp ground cinnamon
¼ tsp ground cloves
¼ tsp grated nutmeg
8 pounds bone-in smoked ham, butt or shank end
1 Bring a small saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Put the apricots in a small bowl; cover with boiling water. Set aside for 30 minutes.
2 Drain the apricots in a fine-mesh sieve or small-holed colander set in the sink. Set them in a small bowl; add the brown sugar, mustard, cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. Use a spoon to mash the ingredients into a paste.
3 Place the ham cut side down—or any way that will fit—in the slow cooker. Smear the exposed meat with the apricot paste.
4 Cover and cook on low for 8 hours in a medium cooker or 10 hours in a large cooker, or until the tender meat has pulled away from the bone but still holds its shape when sliced. If you make a slice into the ham in the cooker, you’ll be able to tell its consistency.
5 Transfer the ham to a carving board; let stand for 10 minutes before slicing.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• This tangy paste is made even better if you use bright orange California apricots, which are more sour than the pale Turkish ones.
• Don’t have any dried apricots on hand? Use chopped pitted prunes or stemmed dried figs for a sweeter glaze. Or try pitted dates (but soak them in the hot water for only 10 minutes).
INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED A ham is the hindquarter of the pig. A whole ham is actually the hip joint, part of the buttocks, and a part of the thigh. It’s almost never sold in this gargantuan state but is instead sliced in half, creating the butt and shank ends. The former, higher up on the hog, has a complex structure of bones and more fat; the latter, the traditional version shown in Norman Rockwell paintings, has a single bone running through its center and tapers to one end.
ALL-AMERICAN KNOW-HOW Slow cookers and hams are not necessarily a match made in heaven—because of fit, not technique. To make sure you can complete a ham recipe, measure the depth and width of your model before you head to the supermarket. Take the tape measure with you and measure the hams in the case. You may find a slightly smaller ham will fit—or even a slightly larger one. Adjust the cooking time proportionally.
Serve It Up! To carve a shank-end ham, make thin slices around the thigh bone, starting at the large end of the roast and cutting into the meat perpendicular to that bone. Of course, you’ll never get a whole slice off. Rather, slice a few thin pieces from one side, then turn the ham over and slice a few more from another spot, all the time working your way around that bone. Occasionally, run your knife along the surface plane of the bone to loosen more meat from it as you carve.
When you carve a butt-end ham, you’ll end up with some slices, but also with chunks and ends. Look for the larger sections of meat and slice down, creating thin slices, some of which may fall apart because of the way the muscles are shaped. If you find your cuts are falling into too many pieces at any point, hack off a whole quadrant and slice it into thin pieces and irregular chunks on the carving board.
4- TO 5½-QUART
3 cups water
1 tblsp chili powder
½ tblsp dried oregano
½ tblsp ground cumin
½ tblsp onion powder
2 tblsp chopped pickled jalapeño rings
1 cup dried pinto beans
2½ pounds bone-in smoked ham
¼ tsp salt (optional)
6- TO 8-QUART
6 cups water
2 tblsp chili powder
1 tblsp dried oregano
1 tblsp ground cumin
1 tblsp onion powder
¼ cup chopped pickled jalapeño rings
2 cups dried pinto beans
4 pounds bone-in smoked ham
½ tsp salt (optional)
1 Mix the water, chili powder, oregano, cumin, and onion powder in the slow cooker. Stir in the pinto beans. Nestle the ham into the mixture.
2 Cover and cook on low for 10 hours, or until the meat falls from the bone and is completely shreddable.
3 Move the ham from the cooker to a carving board (you may need to do this in pieces, as the meat will fall apart). Let stand for 10 minutes. Keep the cooker covered and on low.
4 Shred the meat off the bones and discard the bones. Scoop about 1 cup of beans from the cooker with a slotted spoon and pour them into a small bowl. Mash them into a paste with the back of a wooden spoon. Stir this paste and the shredded meat (as well as the salt, if desired) into the cooker to serve.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• There’s no denying that a smoked ham makes the best pork and beans, far leaner but also more tasty than hocks or the random bits of meat used in commercial productions.
• The mashed beans help thicken the stew. If you like, cover and cook on low for an additional 30 minutes to make sure everything’s hot when served.
• The amount of ham here is actually a bit less than the previous ham recipe. Have the butcher cut a ham down to size; freeze the other parts for more pork and beans in the months to come.
• Nope, you can’t really make this dish in a small slow cooker. You’ll almost never find a bone-in ham small enough. That said, you could make it with bone-in ham steaks. Use 1½ pounds and half the stated amounts for the other ingredients as listed for a 4- to 5½-quart slow cooker.
Serve It Up! This is a meal, not a side dish—and best for bowls. Have warmed flour tortillas, sour cream, grated cheese, and even pickle relish for accoutrements.
2- TO 3½-QUART
1½ pounds fresh pork belly, any rind removed
5 tblsp soy sauce
¼ cup packed dark brown sugar
2 tblsp dry sherry
⅓ cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 tblsp minced peeled fresh ginger
6 whole medium scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
1 Serrano chiles, stemmed and halved
1 4-inch cinnamon sticks
1 star anise
4- TO 5½-QUART
3 pounds fresh pork belly, any rind removed
⅔ cup soy sauce
½ cup packed dark brown sugar
¼ cup dry sherry
⅔ cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
2 tblsp minced peeled fresh ginger
12 whole medium scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces
4 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
2 Serrano chiles, stemmed and halved
2 4-inch cinnamon sticks
2 star anise
6- TO 8-QUART
4½ pounds fresh pork belly, any rind removed
1 cup soy sauce
¾ cup packed dark brown sugar
6 tblsp dry sherry
1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
3 tblsp minced peeled fresh ginger
18 whole medium scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces
5 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
2 Serrano chiles, stemmed and halved
2 4-inch cinnamon sticks
2 star anise
1 Cut the pork belly into 2-inch chunks. Set them in a large bowl and toss with the soy sauce, brown sugar, and sherry until evenly coated. Cover and refrigerate for at least 12 hours or up to 16 hours.
2 Remove the meat from the marinade (reserve any juice in the bowl). Pat the chunks dry with paper towels. Heat a large skillet over medium heat; add a batch of pork chunks to the skillet, just enough so there’s no crowding. Brown on all sides, about 10 minutes per batch. As they’re ready, transfer them to the slow cooker and continue browning more.
3 Scrape any reserved marinade from the bowl into the cooker. Stir in the broth, ginger, scallions, garlic, chiles, cinnamon sticks, and star anise.
4 Cover and cook on low for 8 hours, or until very tender.
5 Use a slotted spoon to move the chunks of pork belly to a heat-safe serving bowl or platter. Spoon or ladle the sauce through a strainer and into a fat separator. Discard the aromatics and set aside for 10 minutes. Pour the skimmed sauce into a small saucepan, bring it to a boil over high heat, and reduce to half its volume, about 3 to 8 minutes. Pour the sauce over the pork belly.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• This Asian-style preparation yields aromatic chunks of fatty meat with a rich, heady broth.
• Dry the marinated cubes well so they’ll brown properly. For even better browning, let them sit out of the marinade at room temperature for 20 minutes before browning.
INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED Pork belly is about the most ridiculously decadent cut of pork you can find. Most of it is cured for bacon. For this recipe, choose a large fresh (that is, uncured) slab to cut into chunks. Make sure the butcher has removed any rind. While you’re at it, look for a slab of pork belly with plenty of meat, not just rifts of fat.
Serve It Up! Have bowls of cooked medium-grain white or brown rice at everyone’s place. Use chopsticks or a spoon to reach into the cooker to pull out a few pieces at a time and set them on the rice. Drip bits of the sauce over the pork in the bowls, if desired.
2- TO 3½-QUART
½ cup dried black-eyed peas
1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
6 tblsp drained no-salt-added canned diced tomatoes
6 tblsp minced yellow onion
6 tblsp stemmed, seeded, and minced green bell pepper
¼ cup minced celery
1 tsp Cajun seasoning blend
1 smoked ham hocks
¼ cup long-grain white rice
1 tblsp thinly sliced whole scallions
4- TO 5½-QUART
1 cup dried black-eyed peas
2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
¾ cup drained no-salt-added canned diced tomatoes
¾ cup minced yellow onion
¾ cup stemmed, seeded, and minced green bell pepper
½ cup minced celery
½ tblsp Cajun seasoning blend
1 smoked ham hocks
½ cup long-grain white rice
2 tblsp thinly sliced whole scallions
6- TO 8-QUART
2 cups dried black-eyed peas
4 cups (1 quart) reduced-sodium chicken broth
1½ cups drained no-salt-added canned diced tomatoes
1½ cups minced yellow onion
1½ cups stemmed, seeded, and minced green bell pepper
1 cup minced celery
1 tblsp Cajun seasoning blend
2 smoked ham hocks
1 cup long-grain white rice
¼ cup thinly sliced whole scallions
1 Put the black-eyed peas in a large bowl, fill the bowl about two-thirds with cool tap water, and soak for at least 12 hours or up to 20 hours.
2 Drain the peas in a colander set in the sink; scatter them in the slow cooker. Stir in the broth, tomatoes, onion, bell pepper, celery, and Cajun seasoning; nestle in the ham hock.
3 Cover and cook on low for 8 hours, or until the meat easily falls off the bones. Move the hock to a cutting board (a wooden spoon in the other hand helps for balance). Keep the slow cooker covered and on low.
4 Cool the meat for a couple of minutes, then shred it off the bones. Discard the bones (look for little bits and chips), then chop the meat and stir it back into the stew in the slow cooker.
5 Stir in the rice and scallions. Cover and cook on high for 1 hour, or until the rice is tender and the stew has thickened considerably.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• Hoppin’ John is a West African dish that has long been a staple in Southern kitchens. It’s a mix of rice, black-eyed peas, and vegetables, sometimes made with fatback, but here with the somewhat leaner ham hock.
• Some hocks are kept luridly pink, thanks to lots of saltpeter and other preservatives. If you want to skip this chemical treatment, look for nitrate-free smoked ham hocks or uncured smoked ham hocks. There’s no additional salt required here since the hock will have plenty.
Serve It Up! Hoppin’ John is sometimes served on New Year’s Day, a harbinger of good luck for the year ahead. Serve it with steamed or sautéed greens (particularly collard greens) for a more substantial meal.
2- TO 3½-QUART
8 dried shiitake mushrooms
4 cups cored and shredded napa cabbage
¾ cup chopped canned water chestnuts
½ cup sliced scallion greens, in ½-inch pieces
2 tblsp peeled and minced fresh ginger
1 pound lean ground pork
¼ cup minced scallion whites
1 tsp ground ginger
3 tblsp soy sauce
1 tblsp Worcestershire sauce
1 tblsp balsamic vinegar
4- TO 5½-QUART
10 dried shiitake mushrooms
6 cups cored and shredded napa cabbage
1 cup chopped canned water chestnuts
⅔ cup sliced scallion greens, in ½-inch pieces
3 tblsp peeled and minced fresh ginger
1½ pounds lean ground pork
6 tblsp minced scallion whites
½ tblsp ground ginger
⅓ cup soy sauce
1½ tblsp Worcestershire sauce
1½ tblsp balsamic vinegar
6- TO 8-QUART
16 dried shiitake mushrooms
10 cups cored and shredded napa cabbage
1¾ cups chopped canned water chestnuts
1 cup sliced scallion greens, in ½-inch pieces
⅓ cup peeled and minced fresh ginger
2½ pounds lean ground pork
1 cup minced scallion whites
2 tsp ground ginger
½ cup soy sauce
2½ tblsp Worcestershire sauce
2½ tblsp balsamic vinegar
1 Bring a pan of water to a boil over high heat. Set the dried mushrooms in a bowl; fill the bowl about two-thirds with boiling water. Set aside to steep for 20 minutes.
2 Drain the mushrooms in a colander set over a bowl to catch the soaking liquid (now a mushroom stock). Cut off and discard the shiitake stems. Slice the caps into thin strips; toss with the cabbage, water chestnuts, scallion greens, and fresh ginger in the slow cooker.
3 Mix the ground pork, scallion whites, and ground ginger in a large bowl. Form the mixture into one large meatball for a small slow cooker, two for a medium one, or three for a large one. Set the meatballs in the cabbage mixture.
4 Whisk the soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, and balsamic vinegar in a large bowl. Whisk in 1 cup reserved mushroom stock for a small slow cooker, 1½ cups for a medium cooker, or 2½ cups for a large cooker. Pour over the meatballs and vegetables in the cooker.
5 Cover and cook on low for 6 hours, or until the pork is cooked through and the cabbage is tender. Serve by cutting the meatball into pie-shaped wedges and offering these atop the vegetables and sauce.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• These large meatballs are a specialty of Cantonese cooking—and so of American Chinese cooking as well.
• The big meatballs—said to look like a lion’s head with a cabbage mane around it—can sometimes fall apart when poached on the stovetop. The slow cooker solves that problem with its even, low heat.
2- TO 3½-QUART
6 ounces (about 2 cups) cremini or brown button mushrooms, sliced
1¾ cups no-salt-added canned diced tomatoes
¾ cup no-salt-added tomato paste
⅓ cup chopped yellow onion
⅓ cup stemmed, seeded, and chopped green bell pepper
⅓ cup full-bodied red wine, such as Syrah or Zinfandel
2 tblsp minced fresh basil leaves
1 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp dried rosemary
1 tsp dried thyme
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp ground black pepper
⅛ tsp grated nutmeg
6 ounces lean ground pork
6 ounces mild Italian sausage, any casings removed
2 tblsp pine nuts
2 tblsp plain dry breadcrumbs
4- TO 5½-QUART
10 ounces (about 3 cups) cremini or brown button mushrooms, sliced
2⅔ cups no-salt-added canned diced tomatoes
1 cup plus 2 tblsp no-salt-added tomato paste
⅔ cup chopped yellow onion
⅔ cup stemmed, seeded, and chopped green bell pepper
⅔ cup full-bodied red wine, such as Syrah or Zinfandel
3 tblsp minced fresh basil leaves
½ tblsp dried oregano
½ tblsp dried rosemary
½ tblsp dried thyme
½ tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
¼ tsp grated nutmeg
½ pound lean ground pork
½ pound mild Italian sausage, any casings removed
3 tblsp pine nuts
3 tblsp plain dry breadcrumbs
6- TO 8-QUART
13 ounces (about 4 cups) cremini or brown button mushrooms, sliced
3½ cups no-salt-added canned diced tomatoes
1½ cups no-salt-added tomato paste
1 cup (about 1 medium) chopped yellow onion
1 cup (about 1 medium) stemmed, seeded, and chopped green bell pepper
1 cup full-bodied red wine, such as Syrah or Zinfandel
¼ cup minced fresh basil leaves
2 tsp dried oregano
2 tsp dried rosemary
2 tsp dried thyme
1 tsp salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
½ tsp grated nutmeg
¾ pound lean ground pork
¾ pound mild Italian sausage, any casings removed
¼ cup pine nuts
¼ cup plain dry breadcrumbs
1 Mix the mushrooms, tomatoes, tomato paste, onion, bell pepper, wine, basil, oregano, rosemary, thyme, salt, pepper, and nutmeg in the slow cooker until the tomato paste dissolves in the mix.
2 Mix the ground pork, sausage meat, pine nuts, and breadcrumbs in a large bowl. Use your clean dry hands to form this mixture into meatballs, each with a scant ¼ cup. Put the meatballs into the sauce in the cooker.
3 Cover and cook on low for 10 hours, or until the sauce has thickened a bit and the meatballs are cooked through.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• This is a complex dish, packed with herbs and spices. Classic comfort food, sophisticated flavors, and a fairly easy technique—what could be better?
• We’ve used two kinds of pork here: the standard ground pork for its luxurious sweetness and Italian-style pork sausage for its flavorings and somewhat coarser texture.
• For even more flavor, toast the pine nuts in a dry skillet over medium-low heat until lightly browned, stirring often, about 5 minutes. Cool for 30 minutes before using them.
SHORTCUTS Use frozen chopped onion and bell pepper. Make sure the vegetables are thoroughly thawed—if not even at room temperature—before adding them.
Serve It Up! Have some cooked pasta already in the bowls when the meal is ready. For more flavor, first toss the hot, drained pasta with a little crumbled goat cheese.
2- TO 3½-QUART
½ pound packaged sauerkraut
¾ cup dry white wine or dry vermouth
¾ cup shredded cored apple
¾ cup peeled and shredded russet potatoes
¼ tsp caraway seeds
¼ tsp ground black pepper
¾ pound smoked kielbasa, cut into 6-inch lengths
4- TO 5½-QUART
1 pound packaged sauerkraut
1½ cups dry white wine or dry vermouth
1½ cups shredded cored apple
1½ cups peeled and shredded russet potatoes
½ tsp caraway seeds
½ tsp ground black pepper
1½ pounds smoked kielbasa, cut into 6-inch lengths
6- TO 8-QUART
2½ pounds packaged sauerkraut
3½ cups dry white wine or dry vermouth
3½ cups shredded cored apple
3½ cups peeled and shredded russet potatoes
1¼ tsp caraway seeds
1¼ tsp ground black pepper
4 pounds smoked kielbasa, cut into 6-inch lengths
1 Drain the sauerkraut in a colander set in the sink; squeeze it by handfuls over the sink before dropping it into the slow cooker. Stir in the wine, apple, potatoes, caraway seeds, and pepper. Press the sausage into the mixture.
2 Cover and cook on low for 6 hours, or until the kielbasa is hot and the potatoes in the mix are quite tender.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• For the best taste, use the packaged sauerkraut in plastic bags at the deli counter, the kind that must be refrigerated in a dated package. Avoid the canned stuff.
• There’s no need to peel the apples. Shred them through the large holes of a box grater, stopping when you get down to the tough core.
• Use only russet potatoes. They have the right balance of starch and moisture to thicken the sauce without leaving it too wet or too dry. Shred them through the large holes of a box grater.
Lamb was once a no-no on the American dinner table. Still is, for many of us. Frankly, the meat has suffered from taste and texture problems. It even has had seasonal issues. Like turkey, it was a holiday dish, best served, not in the fall, but the spring. Who makes lamb in June?
We do. Everyone should. True, lamb is a bigger taste than beef or pork, but that’s to our advantage. We can ramp up the garlic and still not overshadow the meat.
That said, lamb shouldn’t have to be off-putting. A dank funkiness is a sign that the lamb was older than nine months—almost mutton—or that the meat hasn’t been sold quickly enough from the supermarket. Good-quality, young lamb should be aromatic, even sweet, with only a bit of earthy complexity. If you’re ever in doubt, ask to smell the raw lamb at the supermarket. You’ll be able to tell if the lamb is sweet the moment the butcher opens the package for you. Look for a clean, fresh, light aroma with the barest hint of minerality.
Of any meat, lamb affords the most leeway in its cooking time. And this, even more than its taste, may be the reason it’s often considered right for a holiday dish, or for a day when you’re not tied to the clock. A lamb stew may take 6 to 8 hours to finish up in the slow cooker; a leg of lamb, 7 to 10 hours to get tender. Such swings are based on many factors: how old the lamb was, what it was fed, how stressed it was in its life, and even when it was purchased. Start checking a stew an hour before it should be done; a larger cut, two hours before. And be prepared to keep cooking it until the meat is tender and juicy. You’ll know by that tried-and-true fork test: a fork should go into and come out of the meat without much resistance. If you’ve got to push or pull, you’ve got to cook it longer.
So fire up the slow cooker! It’s time this maligned meat got its due.
2- TO 3½-QUART
1½ pounds bone-in lamb shoulder chops, cut into 2- to 3-inch chunks
⅓ cup thinly sliced red onion
3 dried apricots, halved
1½ tblsp green pumpkin seeds (pepitas), toasted
1 tsp minced garlic
1 tblsp cider vinegar
½ tsp ground cumin
½ tsp ground coriander
½ tsp ground ginger
¼ tsp ground cinnamon
¼ tsp fennel seeds
⅛ tsp saffron
⅛ tsp salt
⅛ tsp ground black pepper
3 tblsp reduced-sodium chicken broth
2½ tsp no-salt-added tomato paste
1 tsp packed dark brown sugar
4- TO 5½-QUART
2½ pounds bone-in lamb shoulder chops, cut into 2- to 3-inch chunks
1 cup (about 1 small) thinly sliced red onion
8 dried apricots, halved
¼ cup green pumpkin seeds (pepitas), toasted
2 tsp minced garlic
3 tblsp cider vinegar
1½ tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground ginger
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp fennel seeds
¼ tsp saffron
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp ground black pepper
½ cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
2 tblsp no-salt-added tomato paste
2 tsp packed dark brown sugar
6- TO 8-QUART
4½ pounds bone-in lamb shoulder chops, cut into 2- to 3-inch chunks
1¾ cups thinly sliced red onion
14 dried apricots, halved
7 tblsp green pumpkin seeds (pepitas), toasted
1 tblsp minced garlic
5 tblsp cider vinegar
2½ tsp ground cumin
1½ tsp ground coriander
1½ tsp ground ginger
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp fennel seeds
½ tsp saffron
½ tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
3½ tblsp no-salt-added tomato paste
1 tblsp packed dark brown sugar
1 Dump the cut-up chops, onion, apricots, pumpkin seeds, and garlic into the slow cooker.
2 Stir the vinegar, cumin, coriander, ginger, cinnamon, fennel seeds, saffron, salt, and pepper into a paste in a small bowl. Scrape the paste into the cooker, then use your clean, dry hands to toss everything until the meat and other ingredients are evenly coated in the paste.
3 Clean and dry your hands again. Whisk the broth, tomato paste, and brown sugar in a large bowl until the brown sugar dissolves. Pour this mixture over everything in the cooker.
4 Cover and cook on low for 8 hours, or until the meat is quite tender, particularly at the bone.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• An aromatic—rather than spicy—curry blend, this one complements the lamb, making a comfort-food meal quick and easy.
• If you’re not comfortable working with your hands in step 2, use two wooden spoons, although you’ll have to use quite a bit of elbow grease to get the meat coated in the spices.
• Lamb shoulder chops can be quite fatty, but we don’t advise trimming them because you’ll then lose the collagen and connective tissue, both of which melt into the sauce to make it richer and more satisfying.
INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED A lamb shoulder chop is the most economical sort of lamb chop, taken from up near the front of the animal rather than off the ribs or back near the loin. There’s a complex structure of bones in the chops, so chunk them up by trying to get a bit of bone in each piece. By the way, we don’t recommend rib or loin lamb chops in the slow cooker. They’re just too expensive to braise—and terrific quick-cookers, to boot!
Serve It Up! For a Grilled Corn Side Salad: Grill ears of corn and slices of red onion until lightly browned (or use a grill pan and swab the vegetables with a little olive oil). Slice the kernels off the ears; chop the onions into kernel-sized bits. Toss them both in a bowl with olive oil, lime juice, salt, and red pepper flakes.
2- TO 3½-QUART
1 cup drained and rinsed canned chickpeas
5 ounces (about ⅔ cup) fennel bulbs, trimmed and chopped
3 ounces (about ⅓ cup) leeks (white and pale green part only), halved lengthwise, washed to remove internal grit, and thinly sliced
3½ tblsp chopped sun-dried tomatoes
1 tblsp fresh orange juice
2 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp finely grated orange zest
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp ground black pepper
2 garlic cloves, peeled and slivered
1½ pounds bone-in lamb shoulder chops, cut into 2- to 3-inch pieces
4- TO 5½-QUART
1¾ cups drained and rinsed canned chickpeas
½ pound (about 1 cup) fennel bulbs, trimmed and chopped
¼ pound (about ½ cup) leeks (white and pale green part only), halved lengthwise, washed to remove internal grit, and thinly sliced
⅓ cup chopped sun-dried tomatoes
2 tblsp fresh orange juice
4 tsp Dijon mustard
½ tblsp finely grated orange zest
½ tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
4 garlic cloves, peeled and slivered
2½ pounds bone-in lamb shoulder chops, cut into 2- to 3-inch pieces
6- TO 8-QUART
3 cups drained and rinsed canned chickpeas
1 pound (about 2 cups) fennel bulbs, trimmed and chopped
½ pound (about 1 cup) leeks (white and pale green part only), halved lengthwise, washed to remove internal grit, and thinly sliced
½ cup chopped sun-dried tomatoes
3 tblsp fresh orange juice
2 tblsp Dijon mustard
2 tsp finely grated orange zest
1 tsp salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
6 garlic cloves, peeled and slivered
4½ pounds bone-in lamb shoulder chops, cut into 2- to 3-inch pieces
1 Stir the chickpeas, fennel, leeks, sun-dried tomatoes, orange juice, mustard, orange zest, salt, pepper, and garlic in the slow cooker. Add the lamb chops; toss well.
2 Cover and cook on low for 8 hours, or until the meat is wonderfully tender and sweet.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• Canned chickpeas can range in quality: inferior brands are mushy and tasteless; better-quality ones are firm with a delicate earthiness. Here, their flavors blend with the vegetables and orange juice to tip the dish toward a southern Mediterranean flavor.
• Use dry sun-dried tomatoes, often found in the produce section, rather than those packed in oil.
• Choose an organically grown orange, since you’ll be using the peel. As a rule, take the zest from a fruit before you take the juice.
ALL-AMERICAN KNOW-HOW Fennel bulbs must be trimmed before they can be chopped. Take off the feathery fronds as well as the stalks that come out of the bulb. (Both can be stored in the freezer to be added to soups, stews, or stocks.) Cut off any browned or discolored areas as well as the tough, dried-out bottom of the bulb. Slice the bulb in half from the fronds to the root, then set the halves cut side down on your cutting board. Slice them into thin strips, then turn these strips sideways and slice crosswise into the segments you need.
2- TO 3½-QUART
1½ pounds bone-in lamb shoulder chops, cut into 2- or 3-inch pieces
¾ pound leeks (white and pale green part only), halved lengthwise, washed for grit, and thinly sliced
¼ cup minced whole scallions
2 tblsp soy sauce
2 tblsp dry sherry
½ tblsp Asian chile oil
2 tsp minced peeled fresh ginger
2 tsp minced garlic
2 tsp cumin seeds
¼ tsp ground black pepper
4- TO 5½-QUART
2½ pounds bone-in lamb shoulder chops, cut into 2- or 3-inch pieces
1¼ pounds leeks (white and pale green part only), halved lengthwise, washed for grit, and thinly sliced
⅓ cup (about 1 medium) minced whole scallions
3 tblsp soy sauce
3 tblsp dry sherry
2 tblsp Asian chile oil
1 tblsp minced peeled fresh ginger
1 tblsp minced garlic
1 tblsp cumin seeds
½ tsp ground black pepper
6- TO 8-QUART
4½ pounds bone-in lamb shoulder chops, cut into 2- or 3-inch pieces
2 pounds leeks (white and pale green part only), halved lengthwise, washed for grit, and thinly sliced
½ cup minced whole scallions
⅓ cup soy sauce
⅓ cup dry sherry
3 tblsp Asian chile oil
2 tblsp minced peeled fresh ginger
2 tblsp minced garlic
2 tblsp cumin seeds
¾ tsp ground black pepper
1 Toss the cut-up lamb, leeks, scallions, soy sauce, sherry, chile oil, ginger, garlic, cumin seeds, and pepper in the slow cooker until the meat is coated in the liquids and aromatics.
2 Cover and cook on low for 8 hours, or until the stew is irresistibly aromatic.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• This Hunan dish is, yes, spicy, but it’s actually far more fragrant thanks to all those cumin seeds. Believe it or not, we’ve actually held back on their number to accommodate American palates. If you want an even more authentic taste, add up to 50 percent more.
• Why leeks and scallions? leeks add a subtle, slightly dull sweetness, while scallions offer a bright springtime spark.
• Pass extra chile oil or sambal oelek at the table, to spice things up even more.
2- TO 3½-QUART
½ tblsp olive oil
1 pound bone-in lamb shoulder chops, cut into 2- to 3-inch pieces
¼ tsp salt
⅛ tsp ground black pepper
2 large shallots, peeled and halved
¾ cup full-bodied dry red wine, such as Côtes-du-Rhône or Cabernet Franc
6 baby carrots
2 pitted prunes, halved
1 4-inch rosemary sprigs
1 fresh thyme sprigs
4- TO 5½-QUART
1 tblsp olive oil
2 pounds bone-in lamb shoulder chops, cut into 2- to 3-inch pieces
½ tsp salt
¼ tsp ground black pepper
4 large shallots, peeled and halved
1½ cups full-bodied dry red wine, such as Côtes-du-Rhône or Cabernet Franc
10 baby carrots
4 pitted prunes, halved
2 4-inch rosemary sprigs
1 fresh thyme sprigs
6- TO 8-QUART
2 tblsp olive oil
4 pounds bone-in lamb shoulder chops, cut into 2- to 3-inch pieces
1 tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
8 large shallots, peeled and halved
3 cups full-bodied dry red wine, such as Côtes-du-Rhône or Cabernet Franc
16 baby carrots
8 pitted prunes, halved
4 4-inch rosemary sprigs
2 fresh thyme sprigs
1 Heat a large skillet over medium heat for a couple of minutes, then swirl in the oil. Season the lamb chunks with salt and pepper, then set enough of them in the skillet that they can brown properly without overcrowding. Turn after 2 or 3 minutes, and continue browning on the other side. Transfer the browned chops to the slow cooker.
2 Place the shallots in the skillet, still set over medium heat. Cook until browned, turning only occasionally, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer the shallots to the slow cooker.
3 Pour the wine into the hot skillet, still over the heat. Bring to a full boil, scraping up any browned bits in the skillet. Scrape and pour its contents into the slow cooker.
4 Stir in the carrots and prunes; toss well. Tuck the rosemary and thyme sprigs into the mixture.
5 Cover and cook on low for 8 hours, or until the meat is quite tender.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• Red wine, carrots, and prunes are a classic combination in French cooking—and a good match to savory lamb.
• You can use peeled regular carrots, but cut them into segments about as long and wide as baby carrots.
• For a richer and more complex preparation, substitute unsalted butter or even walnut oil for the olive oil.
INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED Thyme sprigs are always a bit of a problem, given how wispy they are. A sprig is actually not just one of the tendril-like threads but instead a group of those threads with the harder stem at the bottom. If you’ve only got wispy threads on hand, double or triple the amount to match what would be on the sprigs.
2- TO 3½-QUART
1 tblsp unsalted butter
1 pound boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 2-inch pieces
½ small chopped yellow onion
5 ounces carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
5 ounces turnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
⅓ cup dry white wine, such as Chardonnay
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp ground black pepper
1 fresh tarragon sprigs
1 fresh thyme sprigs
1 tsp potato starch
4- TO 5½-QUART
1½ tblsp unsalted butter
2 pounds boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 2-inch pieces
1 small chopped yellow onion
10 ounces carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
10 ounces turnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
⅔ cup dry white wine, such as Chardonnay
½ tsp salt
¼ tsp ground black pepper
2 fresh tarragon sprigs
2 fresh thyme sprigs
2 tsp potato starch
6- TO 8-QUART
2 tblsp unsalted butter
3 pounds boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 2-inch pieces
1 medium chopped yellow onion
1 pound carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 pound turnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 cup dry white wine, such as Chardonnay
1 tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
3 fresh tarragon sprigs
2 fresh thyme sprigs
1 tblsp potato starch
1 Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Slip some lamb chunks into the skillet—as many as will fit without crowding. Brown on all sides, giving them only a slight beige color, about 8 minutes per batch. Transfer the cubes to the slow cooker, adding more to keep going through the whole batch.
2 Dump the onion into the skillet, still set over medium heat. Cook, stirring often, until softened and pale yellow, about 4 minutes. Scrape the contents of the skillet into the slow cooker.
3 Stir in the carrots, turnips, wine, salt, and pepper. Tuck the tarragon and thyme sprigs into the sauce.
4 Cover and cook on low for 8 hours, or until the meat is fork-tender.
5 Use a slotted spoon to transfer the lamb and vegetables to a big bowl. Cover the cooker and set it to high. Defat the sauce in the cooker, either by skimming it with a flatware spoon or pouring it into a fat strainer. Whisk 2 tablespoons of the sauce with the potato starch in a small bowl, then whisk this mixture back into the slow cooker. Stir into the meat and vegetables.
6 Cover the slow cooker and cook on high for 30 minutes, or until the sauce has thickened a bit.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• A navarin is a French stew, usually made with turnips (navet in French). If there are other vegetables in the mix (as here), it’s really a navarin printanier.
• Boneless lamb shoulder is our preferred cut for this dish because the flavor will be milder and sweeter than the same cuts with bits of bone in them.
• Sear the lamb in the skillet, but don’t get carried away. You want a delicate flavor, not deep or complicated.
INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED Potato starch is an old-fashioned thickener; it’s the fluffy starch extracted from potatoes, prized for the silky texture it brings to sauces and less gummy than cornstarch. Look for potato starch in the baking aisle.
Serve It Up! While mashed potatoes seem a given, try this stew over homemade croutons or even over whole-grain grits (which have a more rustic texture than standard polenta).
2- TO 3½-QUART
1½ pounds boneless leg of lamb, tied into a roast
1 medium garlic cloves, thinly slivered
½ tsp crushed juniper berries
2 tsp olive oil
⅔ cup thinly sliced yellow onion
⅓ cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
3 tblsp gin
⅓ cup stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced green or red bell pepper
¼ ounce dried porcini mushrooms
3 fresh thyme sprigs
1 bay leaf
4- TO 5½-QUART
2½ pounds boneless leg of lamb, tied into a roast
2 medium garlic cloves, thinly slivered
1 tsp crushed juniper berries
1 tblsp olive oil
1 cup thinly sliced yellow onion
½ cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
¼ cup gin
½ cup stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced green or red bell pepper
½ ounce dried porcini mushrooms
4 fresh thyme sprigs
2 bay leaves
6- TO 8-QUART
4½ pounds boneless leg of lamb, tied into a roast
3 medium garlic cloves, thinly slivered
½ tblsp crushed juniper berries
2 tblsp olive oil
1¾ cups thinly sliced yellow onion
1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
⅓ cup gin
¾ cup stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced green or red bell pepper
¾ ounce dried porcini mushrooms
7 fresh thyme sprigs
3 bay leaves
1 Use a paring knife to make small slits across the meat; fill each slit with a garlic sliver or a piece of a juniper berry.
2 Heat a large skillet over medium heat for a couple of minutes, then pour in the oil. Swirl the skillet to coat the hot surface, then add the leg of lamb and brown on all sides, about 5 minutes per side, taking care to get fairly dark spots mottled across the meat. Transfer the leg of lamb to the slow cooker.
3 Pour the onion into the skillet, still set over medium heat with the lamb fat in the pan. Cook, stirring often, until softened, about 4 minutes. Spread the onion over and around the leg of lamb. Add the broth, gin, pepper strips, and porcini; tuck the thyme and bay leaves into the liquid.
4 Cover and cook on low for 7 hours in a small slow cooker, 8 hours in a medium cooker, and 9 hours in a large cooker, or until the meat is quite tender although still capable of being sliced into pieces that don’t shred or fall apart.
5 Transfer the meat to a cutting board; let stand for 10 minutes. Discard the thyme sprigs and bay leaves; skim the surface fat off the sauce with a spoon. Carve the meat against the grain; serve with the sauce on the side.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• A bone-in leg of lamb will not necessarily fit in a slow cooker, no matter the appliance’s size; but a boneless leg will fit almost every time. Buy these roasts already tied at almost all supermarkets, or ask the butcher to bone a leg of lamb and tie the meat into a compact roast.
• Gin is an amazing braising medium—sweet, even a little sticky, and fantastically aromatic. Use a moderately high-quality gin. (No amount of aromatics can cover the taste of cheap booze.)
Serve It Up! For an elegant side dish, roast whole shallots with plenty of olive oil in a covered pan in a 350°F oven for 25 minutes. Quarter radicchio heads through the root, then add them to the pan with a bit more olive oil, tossing everything well. Uncover the pan and roast about 20 more minutes, tossing occasionally, until the radicchio is lightly browned. Let the vegetables cool, then chop them and toss in a large bowl with balsamic vinegar and salt.
2- TO 3½-QUART
½ tblsp olive oil
1¼ pounds boneless leg of lamb, tied into a roast
¼ cup moderately sweet white wine, such as Pinot Blanc or Sauvignon Blanc
10 whole garlic cloves (still in their husks)
2 4-inch fresh rosemary sprigs
2 fresh thyme sprigs
2 bay leaves
½ tsp ground black pepper
½ tsp salt
4- TO 5½-QUART
1 tblsp olive oil
2½ pounds boneless leg of lamb, tied into a roast
½ cup moderately sweet white wine, such as Pinot Blanc or Sauvignon Blanc
20 whole garlic cloves (still in their husks)
4 4-inch fresh rosemary sprigs
4 fresh thyme sprigs
4 bay leaves
1 tsp ground black pepper
1 tsp salt
6- TO 8-QUART
2 tblsp olive oil
5 pounds boneless leg of lamb, tied into a roast
1 cup moderately sweet white wine, such as Pinot Blanc or Sauvignon Blanc
40 whole garlic cloves (still in their husks)
8 4-inch fresh rosemary sprigs
8 fresh thyme sprigs
8 bay leaves
2 tsp ground black pepper
1½ tsp salt
1 Heat a large skillet over medium heat for a couple of minutes, then swirl in the oil. Set the leg of lamb in the skillet and brown on all sides, about 4 minutes per side, taking care to get good brown bits all over the meat. Transfer to the slow cooker.
2 Pour the wine over the lamb. Sprinkle the garlic, rosemary, thyme, bay leaves, pepper, and salt on and around the leg of lamb.
3 Cover and cook on low for 7 hours in a small slow cooker, 8 hours in a medium cooker, and 9 hours in a large cooker, or until the meat is fork-tender.
4 Transfer the roast to a cutting board; let stand for 10 minutes. Remove and discard the rosemary, thyme, and bay leaves. Fish the garlic cloves out and set them on a serving platter. Skim or strain the fat from the sauce. Carve the lamb, place the slices on the serving platter, and serve with the sauce on the side.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• If you love garlic, this is the recipe for you! The lamb also braises in lots of aromatic herbs, yielding a rich sauce.
• The garlic softens so much, you can squeeze it out of its husks onto the finished meat, and serve it like a condiment, or have slices of toasted bread on hand and use that soft garlic pulp as the spread.
• While some of the thyme or rosemary can sit up on top of the roast, make sure the bay leaves are submerged in the wine.
2- TO 3½-QUART
1 tblsp unsalted butter
1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced
2 tsp olive oil
2 tsp minced garlic
½ tsp Kosher salt
½ tsp ground cardamom
½ tsp ground mace
½ tsp mild paprika
¼ tsp ground cinnamon
pinch cayenne
1½ pounds boneless leg of lamb, tied into a roast
4- TO 5½-QUART
2 tblsp unsalted butter
1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
4 tsp olive oil
4 tsp minced garlic
1 tsp Kosher salt
1 tsp ground cardamom
1 tsp ground mace
1 tsp mild paprika
½ tsp ground cinnamon
⅛ tsp cayenne
3 pounds boneless leg of lamb, tied into a roast
6- TO 8-QUART
3 tblsp unsalted butter
2 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
2 tblsp olive oil
2 tblsp minced garlic
1½ tsp Kosher salt
1½ tsp ground cardamom
1½ tsp ground mace
1½ tsp mild paprika
1 tsp ground cinnamon
¼ tsp cayenne
5 pounds boneless leg of lamb, tied into a roast
1 Melt the butter in a large skillet over low heat. Add the onion, drop the heat down further if possible, and cook, stirring frequently, until soft and very sweet, 15 to 20 minutes. If the onion begins to brown, reduce the heat still further and stir even more often. Scrape the contents of the skillet into the slow cooker.
2 Make a paste of the olive oil, garlic, salt, cardamom, mace, paprika, cinnamon, and cayenne in a small bowl. Smear the paste all over the leg of lamb; set it on top of the onion in the cooker.
3 Cover and cook on low for 6 hours in a small slow cooker, 8 hours in a medium cooker, or 10 hours in a large cooker, or until the meat is fork-tender, easily cut into thin slices.
4 Transfer the meat to a carving board; let stand for 10 minutes to become even juicier. Carve against the grain into thin slices or small chunks and serve with the softened onion on the side.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• The spice rub here mimics that on Middle-Eastern shawarma—except with the flavors bumped up a bit to match the way the slow cooker works without much browning.
• Make sure you get the spice rub into the cracks and crannies of the roast—however, remember that the rub is hot. Don’t touch your eyes or nose before you rub the oil all over your hands and wash up well with warm water and soap.
Serve It Up! Serve the slices in pita pockets with chopped lettuce and tomato. Make an easy Tzatziki Sauce: Mix a diced cucumber, a little lemon juice, minced dill, salt, and pepper into Greek yogurt.
2- TO 3½-QUART
1¼ pounds boneless leg of lamb, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 small red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced
1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced
3 tblsp roasted unsalted peanuts
3 tblsp julienned peeled fresh ginger
½ tblsp minced garlic
⅓ cup soy sauce
3 tblsp black bean chile sauce
2 tblsp rice vinegar
1½ tblsp creamy natural-style peanut butter
1½ tblsp packed dark brown sugar
4- TO 5½-QUART
2 pounds boneless leg of lamb, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 medium red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced
1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
¼ cup roasted unsalted peanuts
¼ cup julienned peeled fresh ginger
2 tsp minced garlic
½ cup soy sauce
¼ cup black bean chile sauce
3 tblsp rice vinegar
2 tblsp creamy natural-style peanut butter
2 tblsp packed dark brown sugar
6- TO 8-QUART
4 pounds boneless leg of lamb, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 medium red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced
2 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
½ cup roasted unsalted peanuts
½ cup julienned peeled fresh ginger
1½ tblsp minced garlic
1 cup soy sauce
½ cup black bean chile sauce
6 tblsp rice vinegar
¼ cup creamy natural-style peanut butter
¼ cup packed dark brown sugar
1 Combine the lamb chunks, bell pepper, onion, peanuts, ginger, and garlic in the slow cooker.
2 Whisk the soy sauce, chile sauce, vinegar, peanut butter, and brown sugar in a bowl until smooth. Pour over the ingredients in the slow cooker; toss well.
3 Cover and cook on low for 8 hours, or until the meat is fork-tender.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• This Asian-inspired sauce mellows dramatically as it cooks. Consider it an easy wok-style braise from the slow cooker.
• It’s important that the chunks of lamb be fairly small, about 1 inch each. That way, you’ll need only spoons at the table, not an entire place setting.
INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED Black bean chile sauce is an Asian condiment prized for its salty heat. Not the same as Chinese black bean sauce, black bean chile sauce can be quite red and looks more like a chile sauce with some preserved black beans added to the mix for a musky pop. Look for this condiment in jars in the Asian aisle; keep it refrigerated for up to 6 months after opening.
ALL-AMERICAN KNOW-HOW To julienne fresh ginger, peel a 2-inch chunk with a vegetable peeler, then cut the piece into very thin slices no wider than a matchstick. Slice each of these pieces into very thin strips.
Serve It Up! Yes, you can offer it over cooked rice (white or brown). But also try this very aromatic stew over cooked white or red quinoa that has been mixed with finely diced cucumber and seasoned with a splash of rice vinegar.
2- TO 3½-QUART
1 pound boneless leg of lamb, diced into ½-inch pieces
1 small yellow onion, chopped
⅔ cup chopped carrots
2 tblsp minced fresh sage leaves
2 tsp minced garlic
2 tsp minced fresh rosemary leaves
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp ground black pepper
⅔ cup dry vermouth
6 tblsp no-salt-added tomato paste
1 tsp all-purpose flour
8 ounces dried rotini, cooked and drained
4- TO 5½-QUART
1½ pounds boneless leg of lamb, diced into ½-inch pieces
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
1 cup chopped carrots
3 tblsp minced fresh sage leaves
4 tsp minced garlic
1 tblsp minced fresh rosemary leaves
½ tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
1 cup dry vermouth
½ cup plus 2 tblsp no-salt-added tomato paste
2 tsp all-purpose flour
1 pound dried rotini, cooked and drained
6- TO 8-QUART
3 pounds boneless leg of lamb, diced into ½-inch pieces
2 medium yellow onion, chopped
2 cups chopped carrots
5 tblsp minced fresh sage leaves
2 tblsp minced garlic
1½ tblsp minced fresh rosemary leaves
1 tsp salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
2 cups dry vermouth
1¼ cups no-salt-added tomato paste
1½ tblsp all-purpose flour
1½ pounds dried rotini, cooked and drained
1 Mix the lamb, onion, carrots, sage, garlic, rosemary, salt, and pepper in the slow cooker.
2 Whisk the vermouth, tomato paste, and flour in a bowl until the flour dissolves and the mixture is fairly smooth. Pour over the other ingredients; stir well.
3 Cover and cook on low for 8 hours, or until the flavors have mellowed and the meat is incredibly tender. Serve the ragù over the cooked pasta.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• The real effort here is dicing the meat: it needs to be in tiny bits so they form a ground-beef-like sauce when long cooked.
• The flavors of this ragù are more intense than the standard ground-beef version. For an even more intense bump, add up to ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon with the herbs.
Serve It Up! Ladle the stew over spinach fettuccini, then sprinkle with crumbled feta—or go really over the top and use an aged crumbly goat cheese.
2- TO 3½-QUART
½ tblsp almond or olive oil
2 lamb shanks, about 12 ounces each
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp ground black pepper
½ cup peeled small fresh pearl onions, or frozen, thawed
½ pound ripe tomatoes, chopped
½ cup dry white wine, such as Chardonnay
2 tblsp minced fresh basil leaves
1 bay leaf
4- TO 5½-QUART
1 tblsp almond or olive oil
4 lamb shanks, about 12 ounces each
½ tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
1 cup peeled small fresh pearl onions, or frozen, thawed
1 pound ripe tomatoes, chopped
1 cup dry white wine, such as Chardonnay
¼ cup minced fresh basil leaves
1 bay leaf
6- TO 8-QUART
2 tblsp almond or olive oil
8 lamb shanks, about 12 ounces each
1 tsp salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
2 cups peeled small fresh pearl onions, or frozen, thawed
2 pounds ripe tomatoes, chopped
2 cups dry white wine, such as Chardonnay
½ cup minced fresh basil leaves
2 bay leaves
1 Heat a large skillet over medium heat for a couple of minutes, then swirl in the oil. Season the shanks with salt and pepper, set them in the skillet, and brown them on all sides, up to 12 minutes per shank. (Do this task in stages if you can’t fit all the shanks comfortably in your skillet; divide the almond oil among the batches as necessary.) Transfer the browned shanks to the slow cooker.
2 Scrape the pearl onions into the skillet, still set over the heat. Cook, stirring often, until softened and barely translucent but not yet browned, about 3 minutes. Pour the onions from the skillet into the slow cooker.
3 Add the tomatoes, wine, basil, and bay leaf to the slow cooker. Cover and cook on low for 9 hours, or until the meat is pulling away from the bones and quite tender.
4 Discard the bay leaf. Use a slotted spoon to transfer a shank and some vegetables to each serving bowl. Skim the sauce for fat and pour it over the shanks.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• Almond oil offers a sweet, velvety finish to the stew, but you can substitute olive oil at will.
• Lamb shanks are big-time comfort food. In a slow cooker, the meat takes on a luxurious quality, an almost confit-like texture.
• Lamb shanks work better in an oval slow cooker than a round one. Stack them so they lean on each other without one sitting in the liquid and the others resting above it. It may help to alternate them, one meat side down, another meat side up. If so, swap them around halfway through cooking to make sure everything takes a plunge in the liquid below.
2- TO 3½-QUART
½ tblsp olive oil
2 lamb shanks, about 12 ounces each
½ cup thinly sliced yellow onion
½ cup chopped carrots
½ cup chopped celery
1 tsp minced garlic
¼ cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
½ cup dry red wine, such as Shiraz, Syrah, or light Pinor Noir
2 tblsp no-salt-added tomato paste
½ tsp dried thyme
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp ground black pepper
4- TO 5½-QUART
1 tblsp olive oil
4 lamb shanks, about 12 ounces each
1 cup (about 1 small) thinly sliced yellow onion
1 cup chopped carrots
1 cup chopped celery
2 tsp minced garlic
½ cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 cup dry red wine, such as Shiraz, Syrah, or light Pinor Noir
¼ cup no-salt-added tomato paste
1 tsp dried thyme
½ tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
6- TO 8-QUART
2 tblsp olive oil
8 lamb shanks, about 12 ounces each
2 cups thinly sliced yellow onion
2 cups chopped carrots
2 cups chopped celery
1½ tblsp minced garlic
1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
2 cups dry red wine, such as Shiraz, Syrah, or light Pinor Noir
½ cup no-salt-added tomato paste
2 tsp dried thyme
1 tsp salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
1 Heat a large skillet over medium heat, then pour in the oil. Swirl to coat, then add the lamb shanks. Brown on all sides, about 12 minutes per shank. (Only brown as many as will fit comfortably in the skillet at a time, adding more as space opens up.) Transfer the browned shanks to the slow cooker.
2 Add the onion, carrots, celery, and garlic to the skillet, still set over the heat. Cook, stirring often, until the onion begins to turn translucent, about 3 minutes.
3 Use a slotted spoon to transfer the vegetables to the slow cooker. Pour the broth into the skillet, raise the heat to high, and stir until simmering, scraping up any browned bits in the skillet. Pour the contents of the skillet into the slow cooker.
4 Whisk the wine, tomato paste, thyme, salt, and pepper in a bowl; pour over the contents of the slow cooker.
5 Cover and cook on low for 9 hours, or until the meat has pulled back from the bone and is fork-tender.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• To balance the more assertive tastes in this stew, get all the browning flavor in the skillet into the slow cooker—an extra step, sure, but clearly worth it.
• This is a hearty, French-inspired preparation, stocked with plenty of vegetables. You can even make it ahead, debone the meat, stir it back into the stew, and save it in the freezer as a terrific stew for some future evening.
Serve It Up! For a Wax Bean Salad: Blanch wax beans in boiling water for 1 minute, then drain and refresh under cool tap water. Toss them with diced tomatoes, sliced green olives, minced shallots, olive oil, lemon juice, salt, and ground black pepper.
Boredom at the plate leads to mindless overeating. If you want to lose weight, you have to eat a wider variety of things—otherwise, you’ll be eating more of the same ol’ things to find any satisfaction. So here’s to veal and rabbit, two slow cooker meats we might not consider all that often.
Veal is sweet and tender, about the best meat in the supermarket. We suspect everyone who’s had osso buco knows that, although they may not have known they were eating veal. You can skip the guilt that comes with eating veal now that there are small-production veal farmers with calves in the fields. Pastured veal is not white but pink; the meat is mellow and marbled, perfect for the slow cooker. rabbit, by contrast, is more assertive, rich and mineraly, like a cross between pork tenderloin and dark-meat turkey. But don’t expect to pick any buckshot out of your teeth: today’s rabbits are raised on farms.
That said, there can be a problem with both veal and rabbit. They’re not the most popular meats in the supermarket, so they have a tendency to sit on the shelf. If you’re in doubt, ask the butcher to open a package for you, especially when you’re buying rabbit. Take a whiff; make sure it’s not off.
After that, cooking rabbit and veal is all about the braise. When it comes to veal, all that talk about good browning technique gets tossed out of the window. You don’t want to brown the meat very much—just get it beige with a few brown bits. Too much browning, and the overall flavor will become too bitter and assertive. And no, we don’t have a recipe for veal scaloppini; it would be a waste in the slow cooker. Instead, we have multiple recipes for veal stew meat and veal shanks, as well as several recipes that call for a whole rabbit cut into eight or nine parts.
So eat more things. You’ll find yourself more quickly satisfied and you may even eat less in the long run. No guarantees, though. These dishes are pretty tasty.
2- TO 3½-QUART
1 tsp unsalted butter
1 tsp olive oil
1¼ pounds bone-in veal shoulder roast
⅛ tsp salt
⅛ tsp ground black pepper
¼ cup peeled small fresh pearl onions, or frozen, thawed
¾ cup trimmed and quartered fresh baby artichokes, or frozen quartered artichoke hearts, thawed
½ tsp finely grated lemon zest
½ tsp minced fresh rosemary leaves
½ tsp minced garlic
About ½ cup slightly sweet white wine, such as Pinot Gris
4- TO 5½-QUART
2 tsp unsalted butter
2 tsp olive oil
2½ pounds bone-in veal shoulder roast
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp ground black pepper
½ cup peeled small fresh pearl onions, or frozen, thawed
1½ cups trimmed and quartered fresh baby artichokes, or frozen quartered artichoke hearts, thawed
1 tsp finely grated lemon zest
1 tsp minced fresh rosemary leaves
1 tsp minced garlic
About 1 cup slightly sweet white wine, such as Pinot Gris
6- TO 8-QUART
1 tblsp unsalted butter
1 tblsp olive oil
4 pounds bone-in veal shoulder roast
½ tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
1 cup peeled small fresh pearl onions, or frozen, thawed
3 cups trimmed and quartered fresh baby artichokes, or frozen quartered artichoke hearts, thawed
2 tsp finely grated lemon zest
2 tsp minced fresh rosemary leaves
2 tsp minced garlic
About 2 cups slightly sweet white wine, such as Pinot Gris
1 Melt the butter in the olive oil in a large skillet set over medium heat. Season the roast with salt and pepper, set it in the skillet, and brown it on all sides, not letting it get too dark but allowing it to get some decidedly beige patches, about 10 minutes. Transfer to the slow cooker.
2 Add the pearl onions; stir them around the skillet until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Pour into the slow cooker.
3 Add the artichoke hearts, lemon zest, rosemary, and garlic, sprinkling all these on and around the roast. Pour in the wine until it comes about a third of the way up the roast. Cover and cook on low for 6 hours in a small slow cooker, 7 hours in a medium cooker, or 8 hours in a large cooker, or until the meat is fork-tender.
4 Transfer the roast to a cutting board; let stand for 10 minutes before carving into slices and chunks against the grain.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• Since a shoulder roast is a fairly large cut, it may not fit into your specific slow cooker model. Take the width and length measurements of your crock before you head to the store. If nothing fits with room to spare for the braising liquid, consider veal shoulder chops as a substitute.
• If you use fresh baby artichokes, peel off almost all the outer leaves, taking the artichoke down to the heart before quartering it.
Serve It Up! Slice Yukon Gold potatoes into quarters; toss them with olive oil, salt, and pepper in a heavy roasting pan; and bake at 375°F until crunchy and brown, between 45 minutes and 1 hour 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
2- TO 3½-QUART
2 tsp olive oil
1 pound bone-in veal shoulder chops, cut into 2-inch chunks
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp ground black pepper
¾ cup full-bodied, mildly sweet red wine, such as California Zinfandel
¾ cup drained no-salt-added canned diced tomatoes
1½ tblsp no-salt-added tomato paste
2 tsp Worcestershire sauce
2 whole garlic cloves, peeled
1 4-inch rosemary sprigs
4- TO 5½-QUART
1 tblsp olive oil
2½ pounds bone-in veal shoulder chops, cut into 2-inch chunks
½ tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
1 cup full-bodied, mildly sweet red wine, such as California Zinfandel
2 cups drained no-salt-added canned diced tomatoes
¼ cup no-salt-added tomato paste
1 tblsp Worcestershire sauce
4 whole garlic cloves, peeled
2 4-inch rosemary sprigs
6- TO 8-QUART
2 tblsp olive oil
4½ pounds bone-in veal shoulder chops, cut into 2-inch chunks
1 tsp salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
2 cups full-bodied, mildly sweet red wine, such as California Zinfandel
2¾ cups drained no-salt-added canned diced tomatoes
⅓ cup no-salt-added tomato paste
2 tblsp Worcestershire sauce
7 whole garlic cloves, peeled
4 4-inch rosemary sprigs
1 Set a large skillet over medium heat for a few minutes; swirl in the oil. Season the veal chunks with salt and pepper, then add some to the skillet, working in batches as necessary; lightly brown on all sides, turning occasionally, 6 to 8 minutes. Use tongs to transfer the chunks to a slow cooker and keep browning more.
2 Raise the heat to high; pour the wine into the skillet. Bring to a full boil, stirring once in a while to scrape up any browned bits. Continue boiling until the liquid in the skillet has reduced by half, between 3 and 6 minutes. Pour the wine reduction over the veal.
3 Stir the tomatoes, tomato paste, and Worcestershire sauce in a bowl until the tomato paste dissolves; stir into the ingredients in the slow cooker. Nestle the garlic cloves and rosemary into the sauce.
4 Cover and cook on low for 8 hours, or until the sauce is very aromatic and the veal is tender when pierced with a fork. Discard the rosemary before serving.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• Although veal is traditionally browned in butter, olive oil adds a brighter, slightly sour flavor, a better contrast to the sweetness in the wine.
• When you cut up the veal, try to keep a bone in each chunk—at least where possible.
• You won’t want to miss those garlic cloves. They’ll have softened enough after cooking that you can smear them onto pieces of crunchy bread.
INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED Veal shoulder chops, cut from above the front legs, offer marbled, delicate meat. There can be plenty of bones in the chops—or just a few, depending on how they were butchered.
6- TO 8-QUART
1 cup dry vermouth
½ cup chopped dried apricots
½ cup golden raisins
½ pound russet potatoes, peeled and shredded
6 ounces carrots, peeled and shredded
2 tsp dried thyme
2 tsp dried sage
½ tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
4 pounds boneless breast of veal, a pocket-like slit made into the thick side
2 tblsp olive oil
1 cup dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio
2 fresh sage sprigs
2 garlic cloves, peeled
1 bay leaf
1 Stir the vermouth, apricots, and raisins in a small saucepan; bring to a simmer over high heat, stirring occasionally. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 20 minutes, until the fruit has softened. Uncover the pan, raise the heat to medium-high, and boil until the liquid has reduced to a glaze, about 6 minutes, stirring occasionally. Set aside to cool for 30 minutes.
2 Pour the contents of the saucepan into a bowl; stir in the potato, carrot, thyme, sage, salt, and pepper. Stuff the potato mixture into the pocket in the breast of veal (see Testers’ Notes for how to make the pocket). Sew the opening of the pocket closed using a sterilized trussing needle or even a large tapestry needle and butchers’ twine.
3 Heat a large skillet over medium heat for a few minutes; swirl the oil in the skillet. Add the stuffed veal and brown on both sides, 6 to 8 minutes per side. Transfer the stuffed veal to the slow cooker, pour in the wine, and tuck the sage sprigs, garlic cloves, and bay leaf into the liquid around the meat.
4 Cover and roast on low for 10 hours, or until the meat is fork-tender. Transfer to a cutting board; let stand for 10 minutes. Slice into ½-inch strips of meat.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• A breast of veal is a luxurious cut laced with lots of collagen—and so perfect for the slow cooker. Because the cut of meat is so large, this recipe can only be made in a large slow cooker.
• Shred the potatoes and carrots through the large holes of a box grater or with the shredding blade of a large food processor.
• To make a pocket in the side of the breast of veal, insert the tip of a large knife into the center of the thick side, the blade turned so that the flat surface is parallel to your work surface. Make a small slice in one direction, remove the knife, and make a slice in the opposite direction. Continue on, making cuts back and forth until a pocket opens up in the meat without breaking through any side. (You can also ask the butcher at your supermarket to do it for you.)
Serve It Up! Make an Apple and Radish Salad: Shred peeled apples and whole radishes through the large holes of a box grater. Toss these shreds with lemon juice, olive oil, stemmed thyme leaves, crunchy sea salt, and ground black pepper.
2- TO 3½-QUART
1¼ pounds boneless veal sirloin roast
1 cup drained and rinsed canned black beans
¼ cup drained canned mandarin orange segments, packed in water
2 tblsp fresh orange juice
½ tblsp finely grated orange zest
½ tblsp honey
½ tblsp thinly sliced serrano chile
1 tsp minced garlic
½ tsp cumin seeds
½ tsp dried oregano
¼ tsp ground cinnamon
¼ tsp ground black pepper
⅛ tsp ground cloves
⅛ tsp salt
4- TO 5½-QUART
2½ pounds boneless veal sirloin roast
1¾ cups drained and rinsed canned black beans
½ cup drained canned mandarin orange segments, packed in water
¼ cup fresh orange juice
1 tblsp finely grated orange zest
1 tblsp honey
1 tblsp thinly sliced serrano chile
2 tsp minced garlic
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp dried oregano
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp ground black pepper
¼ tsp ground cloves
¼ tsp salt
6- TO 8-QUART
4 pounds boneless veal sirloin roast
3 cups drained and rinsed canned black beans
¾ cup drained canned mandarin orange segments, packed in water
6½ tblsp fresh orange juice
1 tblsp plus 2 tsp finely grated orange zest
1 tblsp plus 2 tsp honey
1½ tblsp thinly sliced serrano chile
1 tblsp minced garlic
1½ tsp cumin seeds
1½ tsp dried oregano
¾ tsp ground cinnamon
¾ tsp ground black pepper
½ tsp ground cloves
½ tsp salt
1 Set the roast in the slow cooker; sprinkle the beans on and around the roast.
2 Stir the orange segments, juice, zest, honey, serranos, garlic, cumin seeds, oregano, cinnamon, pepper, cloves, and salt in a bowl; pour over and around the roast.
3 Cover and cook on low for 6 hours in a small slow cooker, 8 hours in a medium cooker, and 9 hours in a large cooker, or until the roast is fork-tender but still will hold its shape when sliced. (You may have to slice a small bit off to see how it holds together.)
4 Transfer to a cutting board and let it rest for 10 minutes while you skim the sauce for any surface fat. Slice into thin strips against the grain; nap with the sauce.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• A veal sirloin roast is a luxurious cut, but it still needs a slow braise to become meltingly tender.
• Because of varying amounts of collagen in the meat, you may find that your particular roast takes a little longer than suggested—perhaps another hour before it’s wonderfully tender.
ALL-AMERICAN KNOW-HOW If desired, make your own orange supremes—wedge-shaped pieces of citrus with no pith or veins. Cut thin slices off the stem end and the opposite end of an orange. Stand the fruit cut side down on a cutting board. Cut off the rind by slicing down and following the fruit’s curve, removing any pith without taking off much flesh. Hold the peeled fruit in your hand over a bowl; cut along the white membranes in V-shaped wedges, removing the individual sections. (Do not slice down into your hand!) Let the sections fall into the bowl below; pick out any seeds; discard the pith and peels. Now you’ll have both orange juice and orange supremes.
2- TO 3½-QUART
2 pounds bone-in veal ribs, cut into 2-bone sections
⅔ cup drained canned crushed pineapple packed in juice
2 tblsp soy sauce
2 tblsp packed dark brown sugar
1 tblsp dry sherry
½ tblsp minced peeled fresh ginger
1 tsp toasted sesame oil
1 medium garlic clove, peeled and quartered
4- TO 5½-QUART
4 pounds bone-in veal ribs, cut into 2-bone sections
1⅓ cups drained canned crushed pineapple packed in juice
3½ tblsp soy sauce
3½ tblsp packed dark brown sugar
2 tblsp dry sherry
1 tblsp minced peeled fresh ginger
2 tsp toasted sesame oil
2 medium garlic cloves, peeled and quartered
6- TO 8-QUART
6 pounds bone-in veal ribs, cut into 2-bone sections
2 cups drained canned crushed pineapple packed in juice
⅓ cup soy sauce
⅓ cup packed dark brown sugar
3 tblsp dry sherry
1½ tblsp minced peeled fresh ginger
1 tblsp toasted sesame oil
3 medium garlic cloves, peeled and quartered
1 Set the ribs in the slow cooker. Stir the pineapple, soy sauce, brown sugar, sherry, ginger, sesame oil, and garlic in a bowl; pour over the ribs.
2 Cover and cook on low for 8 hours, or until the meat is so tender that it is almost falling off the bone.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• Veal ribs are not quite as meaty as beef ribs—and the taste is milder, sweeter.
• To cut the ribs into two-bone sections, use a sharp, heavy cleaver to press down between the bones and through the connective bits at the bottom of the rack. (Or ask the butcher to do this.)
2- TO 3½-QUART
¼ pound slab bacon, cut into ½-inch cubes
2 1½-inch-thick veal osso buco slices (about 12 ounces each), tied
4 ounces leeks (white and pale green part only), halved lengthwise, washed thoroughly to remove any grit, and thinly sliced
¼ cup brandy
½ tblsp minced fresh sage leaves
½ tsp ground allspice
¼ tsp ground black pepper
1 large tart apples (like Granny Smith), peeled, cored, and cut into 3-inch chunks
½ cup dry white wine, such as an Albarino or Chardonnay
3 tblsp heavy cream
4- TO 5½-QUART
6 ounces slab bacon, cut into ½-inch cubes
4 1½-inch-thick veal osso buco slices (about 12 ounces each), tied
8 ounces leeks (white and pale green part only), halved lengthwise, washed thoroughly to remove any grit, and thinly sliced
6 tblsp brandy
1 tblsp minced fresh sage leaves
¾ tsp ground allspice
½ tsp ground black pepper
2 large tart apples (like Granny Smith), peeled, cored, and cut into 3-inch chunks
1 cup dry white wine, such as an Albarino or Chardonnay
¼ cup heavy cream
6- TO 8-QUART
10 ounces slab bacon, cut into ½-inch cubes
6 1½-inch-thick veal osso buco slices (about 12 ounces each), tied
12 ounces leeks (white and pale green part only), halved lengthwise, washed thoroughly to remove any grit, and thinly sliced
½ cup brandy
1½ tblsp minced fresh sage leaves
1 tsp ground allspice
1 tsp ground black pepper
3 large tart apples (like Granny Smith), peeled, cored, and cut into 3-inch chunks
1½ cups dry white wine, such as an Albarino or Chardonnay
⅓ cup heavy cream
1 Fry the bacon cubes in a large skillet set over medium heat until well browned and even a little crunchy at the edges, between 5 and 8 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer them to the slow cooker.
2 Slip the osso buco into the bacon fat–filled skillet, still set over the heat. Add only as many as will comfortably fit, browning them on both sides in batches, about 8 minutes, turning once. Transfer the browned meat to the slow cooker, arranging them in one layer with as little overlap as possible.
3 Add the leeks to the skillet and cook until wilted and aromatic, about 4 minutes, stirring frequently. Pour in the brandy; if the liquid ignites, quickly cover the skillet and move it off the heat for 2 minutes before uncovering and proceeding. As the liquid in the skillet comes to a full boil, scrape up any browned bits on the hot surface. Stir in the sage, allspice, and pepper, then scrape the contents of the skillet into the slow cooker. Add the apples and wine.
4 Cover and cook on low for 9 hours, or until the meat is gorgeously tender at the bone.
5 Use a slotted spoon to transfer the portions of veal to serving bowls. Remove the twine. Skim the surface fat off the sauce in the cooker; pour the sauce and all the vegetables into a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, stir in the cream, and cook for 1 minute, stirring all the while. Ladle the sauce and vegetables over the portions in the bowls.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• The secret to a good cream sauce is (1) not to use too much cream and (2) to boil it down a bit so that it loses that “raw” taste.
• Feel free to substitute venison osso buco for the veal. The bold flavors of this recipe will make a nice match to the richer, gamier meat.
INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED Osso buco is made from sliced veal shanks, a tough, fairly fatty bit of the calf that becomes wonderfully tender when braised for a long time. The name—pronounced oh-soh BOO-coh—literally means “bone [with a] hole,” a reference to the piece of bone marrow often found in the center of the shank (or shin) bone. If you’ve got them, put marrow spoons on the table to mine the bones’ incredibly delectable centers.
ALL-AMERICAN KNOW-HOW To tie osso buco, wrap butchers’ twine once or twice around the circumference, positioning the twine in the middle of the area. The portions must be tied or the meat will quite literally fall off the bone, as the fatty connective tissue melts during braising. You can snip the twine away just before you ladle the sauce over the cooked pieces.
2- TO 3½-QUART
2 tsp olive oil
2 1½-inch-thick veal osso buco slices (about 12 ounces each), tied
⅛ tsp salt
⅛ tsp ground black pepper
1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
2 tsp ancho chile powder
1 tsp finely grated fresh orange zest
1 tsp minced garlic
½ cup strong drip or French-press coffee
½ cup moderately sweet white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
4- TO 5½-QUART
4 tsp olive oil
4 1½-inch-thick veal osso buco slices (about 12 ounces each), tied
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp ground black pepper
1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
4 tsp ancho chile powder
2 tsp finely grated fresh orange zest
2 tsp minced garlic
¾ cup strong drip or French-press coffee
¾ cup moderately sweet white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
6- TO 8-QUART
2 tblsp olive oil
6 1½-inch-thick veal osso buco slices (about 12 ounces each), tied
½ tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
2 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
2 tblsp ancho chile powder
1 tblsp finely grated fresh orange zest
1 tblsp minced garlic
1 cup strong drip or French-press coffee
1 cup moderately sweet white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
1 Heat a large skillet over medium heat, then swirl in the oil. Season the osso buco with salt and pepper, then slip as many as will comfortably fit into the skillet. Brown on both sides, turning once, about 8 minutes. Transfer the rounds to the slow cooker and continue browning more as necessary. Fit them in one layer in the slow cooker, as little overlap as possible.
2 Add the onion to the skillet, still set over the heat. Stir until lightly golden, about 5 minutes. Spoon the onion on top of the osso buco.
3 Sprinkle the onion with the chile powder, orange zest, and garlic. Pour the coffee and wine over everything.
4 Cover and cook on low for 10 hours, or until the meat is fork-tender. Transfer the osso buco to serving bowls; snip and discard the twine. Skim the sauce for any surface fat, then ladle the sauce and onion over the osso buco.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• Coffee, chiles, and orange zest are a complex, sophisticated combination—sweet, bitter, and spicy.
• Use freshly brewed coffee; otherwise, this can add stale, burned notes to this elegant meal. There’s no need for espresso. Simply add another scoop of grounds to your usual batch of coffee to make it a bit stouter.
2- TO 3½-QUART
¼ ounce dried porcini mushrooms
1 tsp unsalted butter
1 tsp olive oil
2 1½-inch-thick veal osso buco slices (about 12 ounces each), tied
½ cup thinly sliced yellow onion
2 tsp minced garlic
⅔ cup dry white wine, such as Chardonnay
⅓ cup chopped sun-dried tomatoes
2 tblsp pitted small oil-cured black olives
1 tblsp minced fresh rosemary leaves
⅛ tsp salt
⅛ tsp ground black pepper
4- TO 5½-QUART
½ ounce dried porcini mushrooms
½ tblsp unsalted butter
½ tblsp olive oil
4 1½-inch-thick veal osso buco slices (about 12 ounces each), tied
1 cup (about 1 small) thinly sliced yellow onion
1 tblsp minced garlic
1⅓ cups dry white wine, such as Chardonnay
⅔ cup chopped sun-dried tomatoes
¼ cup pitted small oil-cured black olives
1½ tblsp minced fresh rosemary leaves
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp ground black pepper
6- TO 8-QUART
1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
1 tblsp unsalted butter
1 tblsp olive oil
6 1½-inch-thick veal osso buco slices (about 12 ounces each), tied
1½ cups thinly sliced yellow onion
1½ tblsp minced garlic
2 cups dry white wine, such as Chardonnay
1 cup chopped sun-dried tomatoes
6 tblsp pitted small oil-cured black olives
2 tblsp minced fresh rosemary leaves
½ tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
1 Bring a saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Set the dried porcini in a medium bowl; fill the bowl about two-thirds full with boiling water. Soak for 20 minutes.
2 Strain the dried mushrooms in a colander set over a second bowl, thereby catching and saving the mushroom soaking liquid.
3 Melt the butter with the oil in a large skillet set over medium heat. Slip as many of the osso buco pieces into the skillet as will comfortably fit. Brown them on both sides, about 8 minutes per batch, turning once. If possible, make one layer of the osso buco in the slow cooker, squeezing to fit (although you can also tilt a couple of the pieces up to help with space).
4 Brown the onion in the same skillet, still set over the heat. Stir until limp and even a little browned in places, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic, stir well for a few seconds, then scrape the contents of the skillet into the slow cooker.
5 Add the mushrooms, wine, sun-dried tomatoes, olives, rosemary, salt, and pepper to the cooker. Pour in the mushroom-soaking liquid until the total sauce in the cooker comes about halfway up the osso buco pieces.
6 Cover and cook on low for 9 hours, or until the meat is quite tender, especially right next to the bone. Use a large, slotted spoon and tongs to transfer the osso buco to serving bowls. Remove the twine. Skim the surface fat off the sauce, then ladle the liquid into the bowls.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• Although not the most classic preparation of osso buco, this recipe showcases Mediterranean flavors with some of the richest veal you can eat.
• Oil-cured olives are particularly rich—and salty. Look for them on the salad or olive bar at larger supermarkets, rather than in a can or jar. If you’re concerned about salt, omit any additional and pass extra flaked sea salt at the table.
Serve It Up! Osso buco is often served with risotto, mashed potatoes, polenta, or even cooked and drained pasta, particularly fettuccini. We’ve also served this dish over black Venere rice, a sticky-sweet specialty grain from Italy.
2- TO 3½-QUART
3 ounces slab bacon, chopped
1½ pounds rabbit, cut into pieces, or packaged rabbit legs
½ cup peeled and quartered shallots
1 tsp minced garlic
1½ cups drained no-salt-added canned diced tomatoes
¼ cup moderately dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
1 tblsp all-purpose flour
1 tsp dried basil
½ tsp dried thyme
½ tsp ground black pepper
4- TO 5½-QUART
6 ounces slab bacon, chopped
3 pounds rabbit, cut into pieces, or packaged rabbit legs
1 cup peeled and quartered shallots
2 tsp minced garlic
3 cups drained no-salt-added canned diced tomatoes
½ cup moderately dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
2 tblsp all-purpose flour
2 tsp dried basil
1 tsp dried thyme
1 tsp ground black pepper
6- TO 8-QUART
12 ounces slab bacon, chopped
6 pounds rabbit, cut into pieces, or packaged rabbit legs
2 cups peeled and quartered shallots
4 tsp minced garlic
6 cups drained no-salt-added canned diced tomatoes
1 cup moderately dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
¼ cup all-purpose flour
4 tsp dried basil
2 tsp dried thyme
2 tsp ground black pepper
1 Fry the bacon in a large skillet over medium heat until crisp, stirring often, between 4 and 7 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the bacon to the slow cooker.
2 Brown the rabbit pieces in stages in the bacon fat in the skillet, turning each piece only after 3 or 4 minutes, but taking care never to crowd the skillet. As they’re done, transfer the rabbit pieces to the slow cooker and continue browning more.
3 Toss the shallots into the skillet, still over the heat, and cook until lightly browned and a bit translucent on the outside, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic to the skillet, cook a few seconds, then scrape the contents of the skillet into the slow cooker.
4 Pour the tomatoes over the contents of the slow cooker. Whisk the wine, flour, basil, thyme, and pepper in a bowl until the flour has dissolved, then pour the wine mixture into the slow cooker.
5 Cover and cook on low for 6 hours, or until the rabbit is tender but juicy. Use tongs to transfer the pieces to serving bowls. Skim the sauce for fat and slather it over the rabbit pieces.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• This tomato-rich, heavily herbed braise is best on a cold, winter evening.
• Pour the diced tomatoes into a strainer in the sink to drain them thoroughly. If there’s too much liquid, the sauce can become overpoweringly heavy.
• There’s a lot of flavor left in that skillet when you’re done browning. If you want to capture it for a side sauce, save ¼ to ½ cup of the juice from the canned tomatoes. Pour it into the skillet when you’re done browning the shallots, crank the heat up to high, and boil the juice down to a thick glaze, stirring often to get up every crusty bit in the skillet.
ALL-AMERICAN KNOW-HOW With less fat and a firmer texture than chicken, rabbit makes a wonderful meal. However, its anatomy can be tricky. Unless you’re sure of its bone structure, ask the butcher to cut the rabbit into 8 to 10 pieces. Most rabbits weigh between 2 and 3½ pounds, more than you’ll need for a small slow cooker. Although you can sometimes find a small rabbit, also look for packaged rabbit legs and buy a similar amount as the recipe requires.
2- TO 3½-QUART
4 ounces pancetta, chopped
1½ pounds rabbit, cut into pieces, or packaged rabbit legs
2 tblsp brandy
¼ pound carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch sections
½ small yellow onion, chopped
2 pitted prunes, halved
1 fresh thyme sprigs
3 fresh sage leaves
¼ tsp ground black pepper
1 cup moderately light but dry red wine, such as Petit Syrah
1 tblsp unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 tblsp all-purpose flour
4- TO 5½-QUART
6 ounces pancetta, chopped
3 pounds rabbit, cut into pieces, or packaged rabbit legs
¼ cup brandy
½ pound carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch sections
1 small yellow onion, chopped
4 pitted prunes, halved
2 fresh thyme sprigs
6 fresh sage leaves
½ tsp ground black pepper
2 cups moderately light but dry red wine, such as Petit Syrah
2 tblsp unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 tblsp all-purpose flour
6- TO 8-QUART
8 ounces pancetta, chopped
6 pounds rabbit, cut into pieces, or packaged rabbit legs
⅓ cup brandy
¾ pound carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch sections
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
8 pitted prunes, halved
4 fresh thyme sprigs
12 fresh sage leaves
1 tsp ground black pepper
One 750-ml bottle moderately light but dry red wine, such as Petit Syrah
3 tblsp unsalted butter, at room temperature
3 tblsp all-purpose flour
1 Fry the pancetta in a large skillet over medium heat until crisp, between 5 and 10 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the pancetta bits to the slow cooker.
2 Brown the rabbit in the same skillet, still set over the heat. Taking care not to overcrowd the skillet, make sure each has some light golden spots across the surface, 6 to 8 minutes per batch. Transfer the rabbit pieces to the slow cooker.
3 Pour the brandy into the skillet. If the liquor ignites, quickly cover the skillet and take it off the heat for 2 minutes before returning to the heat, uncovered. When the liquid in the skillet is boiling, scrape up any browned bits on the hot surface, then scrape the contents of the skillet into the slow cooker.
4 Add the carrots, onion, prunes, thyme, sage, and pepper to the cooker. Pour in the wine. (The liquid should come about three-quarters of the way up the rabbit and vegetables in the cooker. If not, add water to compensate.)
5 Cover and cook on low for 5 hours, until the meat is tender but not falling off the bone.
6 Use tongs to transfer the rabbit pieces to a large bowl. Cover the cooker and set the temperature on high. Mash the butter into the flour in a small bowl until the mixture forms a paste. Whisk the paste into the sauce in the cooker in dribs and drabs to dissolve it. Return the rabbit pieces to the cooker and cook on high for 30 more minutes, until the sauce has thickened slightly.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• This one’s a civet (see-VAY)—a rich wine-based stew traditionally thickened with blood, but here with a beurre manié (burr mahn-YAY), a paste of butter and flour that gives the sauce a velvety finish.
• If you don’t want to use brandy, substitute chicken broth for a less-worrisome technique.
ALL-AMERICAN KNOW-HOW Liquor can ignite in a hot skillet or pan—or at least, the volatilizing gasses can ignite, causing a nasty fire. Follow a few safety precautions:
• Turn off any exhaust vent so that flames don’t get sucked up into it.
• Never pour directly from the bottle. Fumes can ignite even in its neck. Pour the needed amount into a measuring cup first.
• Have a lid nearby to cover the skillet quickly.
• Make sure all children and pets are out of the room, in case of flare-ups.
• Be steady and patient, never quick or harried.
• Keep a charged fire extinguisher in your kitchen.
2- TO 3½-QUART
1 cup no-salt-added canned diced tomatoes, including juices
¾ cup plus 2 tblsp frozen lima beans, thawed
⅔ cup corn kernels, fresh cut from cob, or frozen, thawed
⅓ cup stemmed, seeded, and chopped green bell pepper
¼ cup whiskey, preferably American blended
¼ cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 tsp dried thyme
¾ tsp dried rosemary
¼ tsp salt
⅛ tsp celery seeds
⅛ tsp ground black pepper
pinch cayenne
1¼ pounds rabbit, cut into pieces, or packaged rabbit legs
1 tblsp no-salt-added tomato paste
4- TO 5½-QUART
1¾ cups no-salt-added canned diced tomatoes, including juices
1½ cups frozen lima beans, thawed
1 cup corn kernels, fresh cut from cob, or frozen, thawed
½ cup stemmed, seeded, and chopped green bell pepper
⅓ cup whiskey, preferably American blended
⅓ cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
½ tblsp dried thyme
1 tsp dried rosemary
½ tsp salt
¼ tsp celery seeds
¼ tsp ground black pepper
⅛ tsp cayenne
2 pounds rabbit, cut into pieces, or packaged rabbit legs
1½ tblsp no-salt-added tomato paste
6- TO 8-QUART
3½ cups no-salt-added canned diced tomatoes, including juices
3 cups frozen lima beans, thawed
2 cups corn kernels, fresh cut from cob, or frozen, thawed
1 cup (about 1 medium) stemmed, seeded, and chopped green bell pepper
½ cup whiskey, preferably American blended
½ cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 tblsp dried thyme
2 tsp dried rosemary
1 tsp salt
½ tsp celery seeds
½ tsp ground black pepper
¼ tsp cayenne
4 pounds rabbit, cut into pieces, or packaged rabbit legs
2½ tblsp no-salt-added tomato paste
1 Mix the tomatoes, lima beans, corn, bell pepper, whiskey, broth, thyme, rosemary, salt, celery seeds, pepper, and cayenne in the slow cooker. Smear the rabbit pieces with the tomato paste; nestle them into the vegetable mixture.
2 Cover and cook on low for 6 hours, or until very tender.
3 Use tongs to remove the rabbit pieces from the cooker to a cutting board, working with a spatula underneath each piece so that it doesn’t fall apart. Cover the cooker and continue cooking on low. Cool the rabbit pieces for 10 minutes.
4 Debone the rabbit and shred the meat. Stir it back into the sauce in the cooker. Cover and cook on low for 15 minutes to heat through.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• This hearty stew is stocked with vegetables, the better to set off the mild, sweet rabbit.
• Take care that you do not drain the canned tomatoes unless the recipe specifically instructs you to do so. As here, that extra juice is often necessary to the recipe’s success.
2- TO 3½-QUART
¾ pound carrots, peeled and shredded
3 tblsp golden raisins
½ tsp dried thyme
¼ tsp ground allspice
¼ tsp grated nutmeg
½ tblsp unsalted butter
1½ pounds rabbit, cut into pieces, or packaged rabbit legs
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp ground black pepper
½ cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
4- TO 5½-QUART
1¼ pounds carrots, peeled and shredded
6 tblsp golden raisins
1 tsp dried thyme
½ tsp ground allspice
½ tsp grated nutmeg
1 tblsp unsalted butter
3 pounds rabbit, cut into pieces, or packaged rabbit legs
½ tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
6- TO 8-QUART
2¼ pounds carrots, peeled and shredded
¾ cup golden raisins
2 tsp dried thyme
1 tsp ground allspice
¾ tsp grated nutmeg
2 tblsp unsalted butter
6 pounds rabbit, cut into pieces, or packaged rabbit legs
1 tsp salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 Mix the carrots, raisins, thyme, allspice, and nutmeg in the slow cooker. Spread the mixture into a bed.
2 Melt the butter in a large skillet set over medium heat. Season the rabbit with salt and pepper, then lay as many of the rabbit pieces in the skillet as will fit leaving a couple of inches of space between each. Brown on both sides, about 8 minutes, turning once.
3 Transfer the browned rabbit pieces to the slow cooker, nestling the pieces into the carrot mixture. Brown the remainder of the rabbit pieces, still working in batches to prevent overcrowding, and then transfer these pieces to the slow cooker.
4 Pour the broth over everything in the cooker. Cover and cook on low for 6 hours, or until the rabbit is tender without necessarily falling off the bone.
TESTERS’ NOTES
• This is a fairly simple Old World stew, a great way to introduce yourself to rabbit if you’ve never given it a try.
• When you’re working stovetop, you don’t want any dark brown patches on the rabbit pieces; rather, some golden bits work best with this fairly mild, sweet meat.