Chicken and eggs don’t usually conjure up images of luxury in today’s world. Readily available and packed with protein, these two culinary staples are the backbone of kitchens everywhere. In the Mediterranean region, they are greatly appreciated and prepared in scores of ways. Believe it or not, up until the last few centuries, both chicken and eggs were quite expensive and reserved for special occasions. During the late sixteenth century, for example, King Henry IV of France told the citizens of his country that his goal was to enable each French family to afford a single chicken for their Sunday supper. “A chicken in every pot” became a political slogan in France, and roasted chicken has been considered a classic Sunday lunch dish.
Further east in the Mediterranean, however, Ottoman–controlled Egypt was extremely wealthy thanks to the spice trade. In thirteenth and fourteenth century Egypt, a single banquet consisted of thousands of animals and tons of sugar for desserts and sorbets. Free hospitals treated needy patients and did not release them until they could eat an entire roasted chicken by themselves, in one sitting.
Many egg-based dishes traveled throughout the region with the migrating Sephardic Jewish diaspora. Since kosher laws weren’t adhered to in many countries in the Mediterranean, members of the Jewish community often relied on eggs for their main source of protein, omitting the need to purchase nonkosher meat. These recipes, while inexpensive, are often so delicious that they are preferred to nonvegetarian alternatives. Regardless of the history and lore surrounding these ingredients, dairy, eggs, and poultry are blank culinary canvases that, with passionate Mediterranean flair, can be transformed into inexpensive and healthful edible masterpieces.
A trip to any Mediterranean country is a dairy lover’s dream. With most nations offering hundreds of local varieties, there’s something for everyone’s palate.
Cheese has become a culinary ambassador of sorts, for many countries. It’s hard to think of the French kitchen without images of tangy goat cheese and golden brie coming to mind. Fresh mozzarella, Pecorino, and Parmigiano are associated with Italian food. The feta of Greece, Halloumi of Crete, and Kasseri of Turkey continue to grow in popularity around the globe.
To our knowledge, there are at least 900 varieties of artisanal cheeses in the world. Many cheeses have been made in the same artisanal fashion for centuries, ensuring authenticity, flavor, and environmentally sound practices. Great care goes into making artisan cheese. Ancient farming practices that emphasize the wellbeing of the animals include high-quality feed, grazing in cooler pastures in the hot summer months, and hand milking. In the European portion of the Mediterranean region, many of these types of cheese are given a government seal of approval, promoted as culinary treasures, and controlled for quality. In other countries, such as Lebanon and Israel, there are groups of proud farmers, chefs, and their supporters who are working diligently to continue the traditions of the past.
Goat, sheep, cow, buffalo, and in some areas of the Middle East, camel’s milk are made into a wide variety of cheeses, which fall into three categories:
• fresh and soft (water content between 45 percent and 70 percent with a lower sodium content)
• semi-hard (water content between 40 percent and 45 percent)
• hard and aged (water content below 40 percent and higher sodium content)
The manner in which cheese is consumed varies from place to place. In France and Italy, cheese courses are served after a meal. In Spain and Greece, cheese features prominently in the small plate, tapas, or meze dining culture. In North Africa and the Middle East, cheese is predominately eaten at breakfast or in sandwiches for a snack or light dinner. The North African and Middle Eastern countries also tend to not add cheese to recipes, but to eat it on its own, in its original form.
Similarly, while many types of yogurt are available and eaten throughout the region, the various Mediterranean cultures have their own uses for yogurt. It was originally made by Bedouins who poured camel, sheep, goat, or ewe’s milk into canvas hides tied between two palm trees. The hides would be shaken back and forth until the milk thickened into yogurt. Yogurt cheese and dried yogurt balls were then made and preserved to last without refrigeration. This was a traditional staple of the people of the Middle East whose daily diet was rounded out with dates and bread.
Fresh yogurt is used as a condiment, served for breakfast, used as the base of cold soups and sauces, and a popular snack. Smooth, creamy, and known for cultivating friendly intestinal bacteria, yogurt is an ingredient that seems to prove more beneficial each day.
Dairy often gets excluded from many western healthy eating plans because people either consume too much milk, which leads to gastric distress, or high-fat butter and processed cheeses, which are also high in cholesterol. Daily consumption of dairy in the Mediterranean region, in contrast, consists of fresh cheeses such as ricotta and feta, which are high in nutrients and lower in fat and cholesterol. To wit, a Spanish study concluded that those eating two to three servings, or more, of low-fat dairy had a 50 percent reduced risk of developing high blood pressure, while a University of Tennessee, Knoxville, study found that the calcium in yogurt, eaten in addition to cutting overall calories, made it easier for participants to drop pounds.
Milk and its products contain a healthful dose of animal protein (about 9 grams per 6-ounce (170 g) serving), plus other nutrients such as calcium, vitamin B2, B12, potassium, and magnesium. Calcium has been shown to have beneficial effects on bone mass in people of all ages, but check nutritional labels to choose brands of milk and yogurt that contain at least 20 percent of the daily recommended value of both calcium and vitamin D. (Because vitamin D boosts calcium absorption, but isn’t naturally present in dairy, most western companies add it.) Nutritional values of traditional yogurt in the Mediterranean region also vary since it can be made from goat, sheep, or cow’s milk, or a combination.
Yogurt with live active cultures (probiotics) helps to maintain the natural balance of organisms, known as microflora, in the intestines. According to researchers at Tufts University, yogurt with active cultures is believed to boost the immune system, change the microflora of the gut, and affect the amount of time it takes for food to travel through the bowel. Digestive concerns such as lactose intolerance, constipation, diarrhea, colon cancer, H. pylori infections, and inflammatory bowel disease have been shown to improve with probiotic consumption.
Yogurt, especially the Greek variety and type that is locally produced in many Mediterranean countries, is packed with protein and vitamin B12, which is mostly found in animal products, making it a great choice for vegetarians and for athletes looking for a post-workout snack. The protein helps muscle recovery and water absorption, which can improve hydration. One 8-ounce (225 g) serving contains approximately 60 percent of the recommended daily B12 intake for adult women along with good amounts of phosphorus, potassium, riboflavin, iodine, zinc, and vitamin B5.
Cheese is also a great source of hunger-curbing protein and calcium. It is believed to slow down the absorption rate of carbohydrates eaten at the same meal, balance blood sugar levels, and improve mood. It also contains the same calcium benefits as milk and yogurt. The zinc content in cheese is believed to protect skin, hair, and nails, as well as help tissue growth and repair.
Halloumi is a soft, salty cheese with herbal undertones that has been crafted on the island of Cyprus since antiquity. Artisan Halloumi cheese is still made of sheep and goat’s milk the way it was millennia ago. On the island of Cyprus, watermelon is paired with feta cheese for a sweet and salty combination that can’t be beat. It’s the perfect after dinner treat to enjoy with friends on a balmy evening.
2 cups (300 g) watermelon cubes (1 inch, or 2.5 cm)
1 pound (455 g) Halloumi cheese, cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes
1 bunch fresh basil
1/4 cup (60 ml) good-quality extra-virgin olive oil
Short wooden skewers, for serving
Yield: 8 servings
Thread a piece of watermelon onto a skewer. Follow with a piece of halloumi and a basil leaf. Continue until all of the watermelon and Halloumi have been used up.
Drizzle with olive oil.
I spent a great deal of time in Egypt both consulting for restaurants, visiting loved ones, and as the Chairperson of the Baltimore-Luxor-Alexandria Sister City organization, which promoted cross-cultural relations between the United States and Egypt. Two of my proudest moments were obtaining a grant to give clean water to a rural village outside of Luxor, and creating the menu for a dinner that was attended by the Governor of Luxor and the Mayor of Baltimore. Over the years, Egypt became a third home to me, and when I am not there, I often crave its cuisine.
3 cups (675 g) small curd cottage cheese
1 tomato, chopped
1 baby (Persian) cucumber, or 1/3 English cucumber, diced
1/4 cup (32 g) kalamata olives, pitted and chopped
Unrefined sea salt or salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil (unfiltered if possible)
1/4 cup (15 g) chopped fresh parsley
6 pieces Whole-Wheat Pita Bread, quartered (see page 19)
or
Raw vegetables for serving
Yield: 6 servings
Combine the cottage cheese, tomato, cucumber, and olives in a medium bowl. Toss gently to combine. Taste, and season with salt and pepper, if needed. Place the cottage cheese on a dinner plate, and using a spatula, smooth out the top. Drizzle olive oil on the top and garnish with parsley. Serve with pita wedges or crudités.
Turkish Yogurt, Garlic, and Dill Sauce/CacikYogurt is one of the traditional pleasures of kitchens around the Mediterranean. It’s usually enjoyed for breakfast, or a light snack, with fresh figs and luscious mountain honey. For best results, drain the yogurt overnight. After draining the yogurt, enjoy the excess liquid, or whey, as a refreshing drink. It is full of healthful probiotic nutrients, and good bacteria known to aid digestion.
3 cups (690 g) plain organic full-fat yogurt
2 English cucumbers, peeled and diced
Unrefined sea salt or salt
1/4 cup (16 g) fresh dill, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1 small yellow onion, grated and drained
Yield: 8 servings
Place the yogurt in a medium colander over a bowl to drain overnight in the refrigerator.
Place the cucumbers in a colander and sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon salt. Let stand for 20 minutes. Rinse off the salt and add cucumbers to yogurt. Stir in the dill. Add the garlic and onion, and season with salt to taste. Serve immediately to prevent salad from becoming runny. If storing, place in an airtight container in the refrigerator and drain off excess liquid before serving.
Herb–Marinated Mozzarella/Mozzarella marinataThis Italian classic makes a tasty and beautiful appetizer or edible gift. Feel free to alter the recipe, using the herbs you have on hand. Garlic, capers, chopped olives, and hot peppers are all popular additions. You can also use larger pieces of mozzarella, instead of bocconcini, and slice them into 1/4-inch (6 mm) slices.
1/4 cup (60 ml) good-quality, extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh basil
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh oregano
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1/4 teaspoon unrefined sea salt or salt
Pinch freshly ground black pepper
1 pound (455 g) fresh bocconcini mozzarella balls, preferably from buffalo milk
Olives and crackers or bread to serve
Yield: 6 servings
In a small bowl, combine the oil, herbs, red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper. Place the mozzarella balls in a shallow bowl. Drizzle the oil and herb mixture over mozzarella. Let stand for an hour. Serve with olives, crackers, and bread.
It’s surprisingly simple to make Lebanon’s namesake yogurt cheese. Since there are only a few ingredients in this recipe, quality ingredients are paramount. Choose the best quality yogurt you can find, preferably one made of sheep and goat’s milk cheese from a Mediterranean import store. I also suggest drizzling with unfiltered olive oil, if possible. Some people add finely diced celery, radishes, carrots, or tomatoes to their labneh, but I’m a purist and prefer it plain. Be sure to save the strained liquid—it contains all of the healthful probiotics from the yogurt and makes a great addition to smoothies.
4 cups (920 g) full-fat plain yogurt
1 teaspoon unrefined sea salt or salt
Good-quality, extra-virgin olive oil, unfiltered, if possible
Za’atar (see page 185)
6 to 8 black olives
Whole-Wheat Pita Bread (page 19) or other bread, for serving
Yield: about 2 cups
Line a nonreactive strainer with a few layers of cheesecloth and set it over a deep bowl, one deep enough so that the bottom of the strainer is a 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) above the bottom of the bowl where the strained liquid (whey) will collect.
Stir a teaspoon of salt into the yogurt. Using a spatula, scrape the yogurt into the lined strainer. Fold the ends of the cheesecloth over the yogurt and refrigerate overnight, or for a minimum of 12 hours.
Remove the thickened strained cheese (labneh) from the cloth. Transfer the mixture to a shallow serving dish and smooth out the top in a circular fashion using a spatula. Make a few swirls in the labneh, then drizzle a fairly generous amount of olive oil in the indentations. Sprinkle with za’atar, ganish with the olives in the middle, and serve with bread for dipping.
Despite its nutritional richness, goat’s milk generally has a lower cheese yield than cow’s milk, and goat cheeses are less suited to aging. Each different breed of goat and the terrain of the pastures they graze in are responsible for a wide variety of different cheese flavors. This mixture is also fantastic to use as a stuffing for grilled portobello mushrooms.
8 ounces (225 g) soft fresh goat cheese (such as Montrachet)
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, divided (preferably unfiltered)
3 tablespoons (45 g) plain yogurt
2 tablespoons (6 g) chopped fresh chives
2 tablespoons (8 g) chopped fresh Italian parsley
1 teaspoon chopped fresh mint
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
Assorted raw vegetables
Yield: 6 servings
Combine the goat cheese, oil, and yogurt in a blender or food processor, and blend until smooth. Transfer to small bowl. Mix in the chives, parsley, mint, thyme, and rosemary. Season dip to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until the dip is cold and flavors blend, 3 hours to overnight, and keep chilled until serving. Serve with vegetables.
Cypriot Greengrocer’s Salad with Feta/Choriatiki SalataBig, open air vegetable markets are commonplace on the island of Cyprus and in the rest of the region. For people who live too far to reach them, greengrocers usually set up stands or stalls in most neighborhoods. Almost every country in the Mediterranean has this style of salad that is known as Greek salad in the United States. Some cultures may chop the vegetables differently, or add different spices, but the salads themselves are pretty similar. Many cultures also refrain from preparing the dressing in advance, and serve salads with little olive oil and vinegar decanters or lemon slices nearby.
1 head Romaine lettuce, washed, dried, and cut into bite-size pieces
2 ripe tomatoes, diced
1 baby (Persian) cucumber, or 1/3 English cucumber, sliced thinly on the diagonal
1/4 pound (115 g) feta, cubed or crumbled
1/4 cup Greek olives, pitted
1 yellow onion, sliced into rings
1 small green bell pepper, cut into rings
3 tablespoons (45 ml) red wine vinegar or lemon juice
Unrefined sea salt or salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1/2 cup (120 ml) extra-virgin olive oil (preferably unfiltered)
Yield: 6 servings
Place the lettuce in a large salad bowl. Add the tomatoes and cucumber, and toss to combine.
Scatter the feta, olives, onion, and pepper over the top in an attractive pattern. Pour wine vinegar or lemon juice into a small bowl. Add a pinch of salt and pepper, and slowly pour in the olive oil while whisking vigorously. Once the dressing is emulsified, pour it over the salad and serve immediately.
Spiced Greek Yogurt with Apricots/Giaoúrti me veríkokaIn Greece, Turkey, and other Balkan countries, yogurt is a popular breakfast and snack. The combination of cinnamon, citrus, and apricots in this recipe make it so sweet and flavorful, that it can double as dessert. I like to serve it in clear martini glasses for an elegant presentation.
2 cups (460 g) full-fat plain Greek yogurt
1 teaspoon pure cinnamon
1 tablespoon (14 g) unsalted butter
1 cup (130 g) dried apricots
1/3 cup (67 g) sugar
Juice and zest of 1 orange
4 teaspoons sliced almonds or chopped, shelled pistachios or walnuts
2 teaspoons honey
Yield: 4 servings
In a medium bowl, combine the yogurt and cinnamon, stirring until incorporated. Heat the butter in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter melts, add the apricots and toss to coat. Add in the sugar, stir, and reduce heat to medium-low. Allow to cook until the apricots begin to caramelize and plump up, 6 to 8 minutes.
In the meantime, divide the yogurt into 4 serving glasses. When the apricots are ready, deglaze pan with the orange juice. When liquid is almost completely absorbed, stir in orange zest. If sauce doesn’t immediately thicken, allow it to simmer, uncovered, over low heat until it is mostly evaporated, 5 to 8 minutes.
Divide the apricot mixture on top of the yogurt in the serving glasses. Top with 1 teaspoon nuts each. Drizzle with 1/2 teaspoon of honey each, and serve.
If you’re looking to increase your chicken repertoire, Mediterranean-style chicken dishes are the ultimate in flavor and elegance. Historically, chicken was very expensive throughout the region, and only kings, sultans, and the upper classes could afford it. As a result, the chicken recipes that were created were extravagant and delicious.
The term poultry refers to fowl such as chicken, turkey, ducks, and geese. While each of these are eaten in the Mediterranean region, it is chicken that is by far the most popular today, and it is chicken meat that I have focused on in this chapter. The recipes in this collection hail from a wide variety of places in the region and feature roasted, grilled, sautéed, and stewed dishes.
Eggs are another staple in the Mediterranean diet. In the southern European portion of the region they are eaten strictly for dinner, and sometimes lunch, while the North African and Middle Eastern countries also eat them for breakfast. Egg yolks are good sources of omega-3 fats and protein. Although they were traditionally viewed as a meat substitute in many countries because of their lower cost, there are many Mediterranean egg dishes that are so savory, that they are often preferred over meat. For best results, use organic eggs from pasture-raised chickens.
According to the National Chicken Council, “Chicken consists of high-quality protein and a relatively low amount of fat. In addition, fat in chicken is mostly of the unsaturated type, which protects against heart disease.” One 3-ounce (85 g) serving contains just 1 gram of saturated fat and less than 4 grams of total fat, yet is packed with 31 grams of protein, which is more than half of the daily recommended allowance for adult females. Chicken meat contains a significant amount of B vitamins, which aid in metabolism, immune system and blood sugar level maintenance, cell growth, and nerve cell and red blood cell maintenance. It also contains “iron (oxygen transport and cell growth) and zinc (immune system functioning and DNA synthesis).” For these reasons, chicken is a favorite among athletes, dieters, and the health conscious alike.
A popular Mediterranean staple, the egg has gotten a bad nutritional rap during the last few decades when it was linked to increased cholesterol, heart attacks, and strokes. Fortunately, several studies, including one in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, found no correlation between eggs and heart attack or stroke risks in healthy people. On the contrary, it found that the nutrient choline, found predominantly in egg yolks, may reduce cancer risk.
Egg yolks also contain antioxidants known to prevent macular degeneration. The high protein content in eggs makes you feel full and satisfied longer than other foods, which contributes to weight loss and enables your muscles to repair after a workout. With large eggs containing only 72 calories each and suited to a wide variety of cooking styles, eggs are a natural choice for the health conscious, and budget wary, foodies.
This is my go-to recipe when I’m short on time and have leftover roasted chicken from making Roman Tavola Calda–Style Roasted Chicken with Potatoes (opposite), Herb-Marinated Chicken Breasts (page 148), or Jerusalem-Style Chicken (page 150) on hand. Shwarma is the rotisserie cooked meat that is shaved and piled high in sandwiches all over Greece, North Africa, and the Middle East. Traditionally, the meat is threaded with layers of fat, topped with tomatoes and peppers, and left to cook slowly for hours. This housewife version is easier and healthier.
2 tablespoons (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1 yellow onion, finely diced
2 red or green bell peppers, trimmed, seeded, and cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces
2 cups (450 g) shredded cooked chicken meat
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon unrefined sea salt or salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 cups (452 g) diced tomatoes
4 pieces Whole-Wheat Pita Bread (page 19), halved, to serve
1 recipe Tahini Sauce (page 76)
Quick Italian Pickles, to serve (page 60)
Yield: 4 servings
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and peppers and sauté, until lightly golden, about 3 minutes. Add the chicken meat, coriander, cumin, salt, and pepper, and stir. Add the tomatoes and mix well to incorporate. Cover, and cook until peppers are tender, about 5 minutes.
When the chicken mixture is finished cooking, heat the bread. Scoop equal amounts of chicken mixture into the pockets of pita halves. Drizzle Tahini Sauce over the top. Serve warm, with pickled vegetables on the side.
Tavola calda means “hot table” in Italian. The term refers to take-out establishments that specialize in rotisserie chickens and ready-to-eat hot dishes such as pizza bianca, potato croquettes, baked pasta, and more—with special twists making them unique to the region they’re in. The food served in many of the tavola caldas is so delicious and satisfying, that I often prefer it to that in fine restaurants. In fact, one of my favorite things to do in Rome is to purchase roasted chicken, herb-roasted potatoes, focaccia, and risotto croquettes and take them to a park, such as Villa Borghese, to enjoy.
1 whole chicken (3 1/2 pounds or 1.6 kg), cleaned and rinsed well
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon unrefined sea salt or salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon (2 g) finely chopped fresh rosemary
1 head garlic, stem sliced off, left intact
1 lemon, cut in half
1 1/2 pounds (680 g) Yukon gold or other potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces
Yield: 8 servings
Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Place the chicken in a roasting pan and drizzle olive oil over the chicken, turning to make sure that both the pan and chicken are coated. Season with sea salt, freshly ground pepper, and rosemary by rubbing them into the top and sides of the chicken.
Place garlic and 1/2 lemon inside the chicken cavity, and squeeze the remaining lemon half over the chicken. Bake, uncovered, for 45 minutes. Carefully (oil tends to splatter), remove the chicken from the oven and scatter potatoes around the edges, turning to coat in olive oil.
Return to the oven to bake for another 45 minutes, or until chicken is done and potatoes are tender. Chicken is done when clear juices run from the thickest part of the thigh after being pierced with a fork, or when internal temperature of meat reaches 165°F (74°C).
Cover the chicken and allow to rest 10 minutes before carving. Discard the garlic and lemon from chicken cavity before serving.
Calabrian Chicken, Pepper, Tomato, and Potato Stew/Pollo in umidoIn my ancestral homeland of Calabria, Italy, potatoes, peppers, and tomatoes find their way into many recipes. Although they are New World ingredients not available in the region prior to the Columbus trip to America, they now take center stage in most savory dishes, and their addition to a recipe is said to make it Calabrian. Eggs are often served with the trio of vegetables in vegetarian dishes. This piquant stew generally features veal, but I have substituted chicken. Lamb, goat, and beef could also be used. Mediterranean–Style Corn Bread (page 20) or polenta are great accompaniments to this stew.
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 pound (455 g) boneless chicken breast, cut into 2-inch (5 cm) cubes
1 large onion, roughly chopped
1 large red bell pepper, trimmed, seeded, and cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces
1 large green bell pepper, trimmed, seeded, and cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 cups (452 g) diced tomatoes
2 tablespoons (8 g) finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons (5 g) finely chopped fresh basil
1/2 teaspoon unrefined sea salt or salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper, or to taste
2 Yukon gold potatoes, peeled, halved, and cut into 1/4-inch (6 mm) rounds
Yield: 4 servings
Heat 3 tablespoons (45 ml) of olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Add the chicken and brown on all sides. Remove from the skillet and set on a plate. Add the remaining tablespoon (15 ml) of olive oil, onion, and peppers and sauté, stirring occasionally, until light golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Add garlic and stir. Add the chicken back to the saucepan along with tomatoes, parsley, basil, salt, pepper, and crushed red pepper.
Stir, increase heat to high, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, stir, and cover. Simmer for 20 minutes. Remove the lid, stir, add potatoes, replace the lid, and continue cooking until the meat is cooked through and vegetables are tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
I make this recipe with whatever fresh herbs I happen to have on hand at least twice a month. It’s easy, lean, and delicious. The chicken can also be quickly grilled or broiled. I often slice the leftovers and serve them over a salad made of spinach and arugula, cherry tomatoes, shredded carrots, fresh peas, and corn. This marinade also works well with turkey breasts and firm-fleshed fish.
1/2 cup (120 ml) fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons (5 g) chopped fresh basil
1 tablespoon (4 g) chopped fresh oregano
1 tablespoon (6 g) chopped fresh mint
2 pounds (910 g) chicken breast tenders
1/2 teaspoon unrefined sea salt or salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Yield: 4 servings
In a small bowl, whisk the lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, basil, oregano, and mint well to combine. Place the chicken breasts in a large shallow bowl or glass baking pan, and pour dressing over the top.
Cover, place in the refrigerator, and allow to marinate for 1 to 2 hours. Remove from the refrigerator, and season with salt and pepper.
Heat a large, wide skillet over medium-high heat. Using tongs, place chicken tenders evenly in the bottom of the skillet. Pour the remaining marinade over the chicken.
Allow to cook for 3 to 5 minutes each side, or until chicken is golden, juices have been absorbed, and meat is cooked to an internal temperature of 160°F (71°C).
There are two kinds of omelets in Provence: the more commonly known frittata type that is stuffed with Mediterranean ingredients, as well as a crespeu, which is a flat omelet that looks like a crêpe stacked and layered with filling. The “cake” consists of three separate flat omelets that are stacked and then “iced” with a simple tapenade mixture. It is accompanied by a ribbon of fresh tomato sauce and a brandade crouton. This simple version is easy to make and loaded with fresh Mediterranean flavors.
2 tablespoons (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus 2 teaspoons for serving
2 zucchini, diced
2 roasted red peppers from a jar, drained and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1/4 cup (12 g) finely chopped chives
8 eggs
1/2 teaspoon unrefined sea salt or salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 1/2 ounces (1/2 cup, or 38 g) goat cheese
2 tablespoons (5 g) finely chopped fresh basil
4 cups (100 g), mixed field greens, baby spinach, or arugula, to serve
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Yield: 4 servings
Heat 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the zucchini, roasted red pepper, garlic, and chives, then cook gently for about 10 minutes, until softened. Break the eggs into a bowl, whisk lightly and season with salt and pepper. Pour the eggs into the skillet, turn, and swivel to coat. Add knobs of the goat cheese over the top and sprinkle with basil.
Cook until the egg is set and lightly browned underneath, then cover the pan with a plate and invert the omelet onto it. Slide it back into the pan to cook the other side.
To serve, divide 1 cup (25 g) of salad greens onto 4 plates, drizzle with remaining olive oil and lemon juice. Serve a slice of the omelet on the side.
Jerusalem–Style Chicken with Rice, Golden Raisins, and Pine Nuts/Dajaj MashyThis succulent chicken dish hails from Israel and is accompanied by fragrant basmati rice, which although never grown locally, has been a staple in the Palestinian community for centuries.
For the Chicken:
1 whole roasting chicken (3 1/2 pounds, or 1.6 kg), rinsed, giblets removed, and dried
2 tablespoons (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic
1 orange, zested and halved
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
For the Rice:
3 tablespoons (45 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 cup (185 g) basmati rice, soaked in water for 20 minutes and drained
1 3/4 cups (425 ml) boiling water
1 teaspoon allspice
1 teaspoon pure cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
5 cardamom pods
1/2 teaspoon unrefined sea salt or salt
1/4 cup (35 g) pine nuts
1/2 cup (70 g) golden raisins, soaked in hot water for 20 minutes and drained
Yield: 4 servings
To make the chicken: Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Place the chicken in a roasting pan greased with olive oil, turning the chicken to coat in oil. Put the garlic cloves and half of the orange in the cavity of the chicken and squeeze the juice from the remaining half over the top and around the base of the pan. Season the chicken with salt and pepper.
Cover with aluminum foil and roast for about 1 hour and 30 minutes (removing foil after 1 hour, basting every 20 minutes or so), or until juices run clear from the thigh of the chicken when pierced, or chicken reaches an internal temperature of 165°F (74°C). (If blood comes out of the thigh from the piercing, the chicken is not yet cooked.)
To make the rice: After the chicken has been roasting for an hour, begin preparing the rice. Heat 2 tablespoons (30 ml) olive oil in a saucepan with a tight-fitting lid over medium heat. Add the rice, boiling water, allspice, cinnamon, ginger, cardamom pods, and salt. Stir to combine and increase heat to high. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, and place a paper towel between the pot and the cover to absorb steam as rice cooks.
Cook until all of the liquid is absorbed, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to sit, covered, for 10 minutes. Remove lid and paper towel and fluff rice with a fork. Taste and adjust seasonings if necessary.
Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon (15 ml) olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat, and add the pine nuts and raisins. Toast until they start to turn golden and the nuts begin to release their aroma, 3 to 5 minutes. Scatter over rice.
When the chicken is finished roasting, remove from the oven and cover with aluminum foil. Allow to rest for 10 minutes, carve, drizzle with pan juices, and serve hot with rice. Sprinkle orange zest over the top.
Israeli Shakshouka–Style Eggs/ShakshoukaThis dish is of Tunisian, Algerian, Moroccan, and Libyan origin, and is nowadays extremely popular in Israel. Served for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, traditionally in a cast iron pan—this is one of the tastiest, easiest, and most economical dishes around.
2 tablespoons (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons (30 g) harissa sauce (see page 184)
2 tablespoons (32 g) tomato paste
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 yellow onion, diced
2 large red peppers, trimmed, seeded, and cut into small pieces
3 cups (678 g) chopped very ripe tomatoes
6 large organic eggs
1/2 cup (115 g) Labneh (page 136), or plain Greek yogurt
4 pieces Whole-Wheat Pita Bread (page 19) or other pita, warmed, for serving
Yield: 4 servings
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the harissa, tomato paste, paprika, onion and peppers. Stir well to combine and allow to cook until peppers are tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the tomatoes, stir, and increase heat to high. When mixture begins to boil, reduce heat to low and simmer until sauce thickens, about 10 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning.
Make 6 wells in the sauce. Break eggs into the wells. Using a fork, gently swirl the egg whites into the sauce. Simmer, uncovered, until the egg whites are set but the egg yolks are not yet hard, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to set for a few minutes before serving. Serve with labneh or yogurt and hot pita bread.
Tunisian Egg, Tuna, and Tomato Sandwiches/Casse–Croûte TunisienA quarter of the world’s olive oil supply comes from the North African nation of Tunisia. Boasting a beautiful landscape and coastline along with a cosmopolitan culture, Tunisia’s delicious cuisine, a height of gourmet creativity since Medieval times, often gets overshadowed by that of neighboring Morocco. One of Tunisia’s most popular street foods are brek, a deep-fried turnover filled with tuna and vegetables left over from the Ottoman era, and Casse-Croûte—sandwiches filled with similar ingredients.
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 small yellow onion, minced
1/2 small green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and minced
1 medium ripe tomato, diced
Unrefined sea salt or salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
4 small hero or sandwich rolls
1 small English cucumber, thinly sliced
1 medium ripe tomato, thinly sliced
9 or 10 ounces (255 to 283 g) tuna in olive oil, drained well
2 hardboiled eggs, sliced into quarters
1/2 cup (50 g) pitted black olives
4 jarred pepperoncini peppers, drained, stemmed, and halved lengthwise
1/2 cup (120 g) harissa (see page 184) or other hot sauce
Yield: 4 servings
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the garlic, onion, pepper, and diced tomato, and cook, stirring, until soft, about 6 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, and set aside.
Split the rolls horizontally, leaving them intact on one side. Divide the tomato sauce among rolls, top with cucumber, and sliced tomato, and then tuna; top with eggs, olives, and pepperoncini. Drizzle the top of each with harissa and serve.
Seasonal Italian Frittata/Frittata stagionaleFrittate, as they are called in Italian, can be downsized into mini portions for the perfect appetizer, or served in large slices for a hearty, vegetarian breakfast, lunch, and dinner. When CNN.com asked me to prepare my ultimate menu for Prince William’s 2011 wedding, I included bite-size frittatas as part of the appetizer course. The ingredients in this classic Italian version can be found year-round in most supermarkets. Try swapping out the zucchini and potatoes for artichokes and asparagus in spring, tomatoes and eggplant in summer, and fennel and roasted peppers in the fall.
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 medium yellow onion, cut into very thin slices
1 pint (175 g) shitake mushrooms, stemmed and cut into very thin (1/8-inch, or 3 mm) slices
1 large or 2 small leeks, white and light green parts rinsed and finely chopped
8 basil leaves, hand torn
6 large eggs, beaten in a bowl until foamy
1/4 cup (30 g) grated Pecorino Romano
1 teaspoon unrefined sea salt or salt
Yield: 4 servings
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Heat the oil in a large, wide, ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat.
Add the onion and sauté, stirring occasionally, until softened and golden, 4 minutes. Add mushrooms and brown them, 4 minutes. Add the leeks, stir, and cook for another 4 minutes.
Add the basil leaves, beaten eggs, Pecorino Romano, and salt. Mix well and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook, undisturbed, for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the eggs are cooked through.
Finish off the frittata by putting the skillet in the oven until the frittata top is golden and the eggs are set. Cut into 4 pieces and serve.
