INDEX

A

Accommodations: See Sleeping; and specific destinations

Ægir Bryggeri (Flåm): 91

Airports: Bergen, 148; Oslo, 14–15; Stavanger, 183

Air travel resources: 204

Aker Brygge: 18, 28; browsing, 25; eating, 70–71

Akersgata: 55

Akershus Castle: 32

Akershus Fortress Complex: 27, 31–33

Akers River: 53, 55–57

Akvavit: 201

Almanac: 4–5

Ambulance: 202

American Express: 203

Åmotbrua: 56–57

Amundsen, Roald: 49–50, 51

Amusement park, in Oslo: 52–53

Aquarium: Balestrand, 109; Bergen, 165

Arctic: boat travel, 178–179

Ardal Church (Grendi): 195

Armed Forces Museum: 33

Arrival: in Bergen, 147–148; in Oslo, 14–15

Art museums: Bergen Art Museum, 160, 164–165; Golden House (Balestrand), 108–109; Munch Museet, 27, 51–52; National Gallery, 19, 26, 33–40; Stavanger Museum, 187; Vigeland Museum, 44

Astrup Fearnley Museum: 28

ATMs: 199–200; Oslo, 15

Aurland: 87, 97–99, 127–128

Aurlandsfjord: 87

Aurlandsvegen “Snow Road”: 94, 127–128

B

Backer, Harriet: 164

Balestrand: 104–117, 129; boat travel, 79–80, 115, 116, 117; eating, 114–115; map, 105; planning tips, 105–106; sights, 107–112; sleeping, 112–114; tourist information, 106; transportation, 115–117

Balestrand Harborfront: 107–108

Beaches: Bergen, 166; Oslo, 52

Beer: 67, 72, 175, 201

Bergen: 129, 144–179; arrival in, 147–148; boat travel, 79–80, 116, 148, 178–179; eating, 174–177; helpful hints, 149; history of, 154–155, 158–159; maps, 145, 150–151, 170–171; orientation, 146–147; planning tips, 145–146; shopping, 166; sights/activities, 160–168; sleeping, 168–174; tourist information, 147; tours, 152–153; train travel, 82–83, 84, 86, 89–90, 147, 177–178; transportation, 147–148, 149, 152, 177–179; walking tour, 153–160

Bergen Aquarium: 165

Bergen Art Museum: 160, 164–165

Bergen Card: 147

Bergen Cathedral: 163

Bergen Fish Market: 157

Bergen Guide: 12, 147

Bergen Hanseatic Quarter: See Bryggen

Bergenhus Festningmuseum: 154, 161

Bergenhus Fortress (Bergen): 153, 160–162

Bergen Public Library: 149

Bernadotte, Jean-Baptiste: 21–22

Besseggen: 141

Biking (bike rentals): Balestrand, 110; Flåm Valley, 92–93; Hovden, 193; Oslo, 16, 52; Urnes, 122, 124

Bjørnson, Bjørnstjerne: 24, 55

Boating: Flåm, 91; Hovden, 193

Boat travel and cruises: 202; sleeping on the boat, 66; Balestrand, 79–80, 115, 116, 117; Bergen, 79–80, 116, 148, 152, 153, 178–179; Denmark, 190, 196–197; Fjærlandsfjord, 104, 111–112; fjords of Norway, 78–79, 83, 85, 87–88, 116; Gudvangen, 87–88; Lustrafjord, 126–127; Lysefjord, 187; Nærøyfjord, 87–88, 91–92, 128–129; Oslo, 17, 74–75; Pulpit Rock, 187–188; Stavanger, 183, 190

Bogstadveien: 19, 25, 59

Borgund Stave Church: 94–95

Breheimsenteret Glacier Information Center: 120

Breiavatnet, Lake: 181, 183

Breivik, Anders Behring: 56–57

Bryggen (Bergen): 146–147, 155–157; eating, 174–175; guided tours, 152; history of, 154–155; walking tour, 155–160

Bryggens Museum (Bergen): 155, 161–162

Buses: 202; Balestrand, 117; Bergen, 147, 149, 152–153; Lustrafjord, 126; Oslo, 17, 74; Stavanger, 183

Bygdøy: 11, 45–50; eating, 46–47; map, 46

Bykle: 194

Byporten: 20, 59

C

Cabs: See Taxis

Café Bacchus: 22

Campgrounds (camping): 96, 98–99, 109, 114, 124, 136, 194

Canning Museum (Stavanger): 187

Car travel (driving): 202; Bergen, 148; Gudbrandsdal Valley, 134; Jotunheimen Mountains, 141–143; Lustrafjord, 117–118, 121–122; Setesdal Valley, 198; Sognefjord, 127–129, 142–143

Changing of the Guard: 32

Cheese: 6, 100, 115, 191, 201

Churches and cathedrals: Ardal Church (Grendi), 195; Bergen Cathedral, 163; Dale Church (Luster), 118–119; Gamle Aker Church, 55–56; Oslo Cathedral, 22; St. Mary’s Church (Bergen), 154–155; St. Olaf’s Church (Balestrand), 108; Stavanger Cathedral, 183–184; Undredal church, 99–100. See also Stave churches

City Hall, Oslo: 18, 24–25, 26, 29–30; eating, 28, 30, 70

Copenhagen: boat travel, 75, 178, 202; train travel, 73

Credit cards: 199

Cruises: See Boat travel and cruises

Cuisine: 68

Currency and exchange: 5, 199–200; Oslo, 15

D

Dahl, Johan Christian: 35–36, 164

Dale Church (Luster): 118–119

Dammar Vatnedalsvatn: 194

Dance of Life (Munch): 40

Denmark: boat travel, 190, 196–197

Department stores, in Oslo: 59

“Desolation Row:” 22

Det Gylne Hus (Balestrand): 108–109

Det Norske Utvandrersenteret Ble (Stavanger): 185–186

Dining: See Eating; and specific destinations

Discounts: See Money-saving tips

Dragsvik: ferry, 115, 117

Drammen: 84

Driving: See Car travel

Drøbak: 58–59

E

Eating: 201–202; Aurland, 99; Balestrand, 114–115; Bergen, 174–177; Flåm, 96–97; Hovden, 194; Kristiansand, 196; Lillehammer, 136; Oslo, 66–73; Bygdøy, 46–47; Solvorn, 125; Stavanger, 189–190

Economy: 4–5

Edvard Munch Museum: 27, 51–52

Eidsvoll Manor: 58

Elvesæter: 139–140

Embassy, US: 202–203

Emergencies: 202–203

Emigration Center (Stavanger): 185–186

Engangsgrill (“one-time grills”): 67

Esefjord: 110, 111

Evje: 195

F

Fantoft Stave Church: 168

Fearnley, Thomas: 36

Ferries: See Boat travel and cruises

Festivals: 181, 203

Finse: 84

Fish markets: Bergen, 157, 176, 177; Kristiansand, 196; Stavanger, 181

Fisketorget (Bergen): 157

Fjærlandsfjord: 104, 111–112

Fjordline: 178, 196–197, 202

FjordSafari: 92

Fjords of Norway: 76–100; about, 85; maps, 77, 81; package tours, 17, 81–82, 92; planning tips, 77–78; self-guided tour, 84–100; transportation, 78–83. See also Lustrafjord; Sognefjord

Flag, Norwegian: 5

Flåm: 90–93; boat travel, 83, 87–88, 116; eating, 96–97; sights/activities, 91–95; sleeping, 95–96; tourist information, 90–91; train travel, 83, 86–87, 90

Flåm Railway Museum: 91

Flåmsbana: 83, 86–87

Flåm Valley: 92–93

Flateland: 194

Flea market, in Oslo: 59

Flesland Airport (Bergen): 148

Fløibanen Funicular (Bergen): 158, 163

Flytoget: 14–15

Fodnes: 127, 128

Food: See Cheese; Eating; Markets; Pølse; Smörgåsbord; and specific destinations

Forsvarsmuseet: 33

Fortress Museum (Bergen): 154, 161

Fram Museum: 26, 49–50

Frilandsmuseets: See Open-air museums

Frogner: 18–19; eating, 71; shopping, 59

Frognerbadet: 53

Frogner Park: 19, 26, 41–44; eating near, 71

Frognerseteren Hovedrestaurant: 51, 73

Funicular, in Bergen: 158, 163

G

Galdhøpiggen: 141, 142

Galleriet Mall (Bergen): 149, 166

Gamle Aker Church (Oslo): 55–56

Gamle Bergen: 165

Gamle Stavanger: 186

Gaupne: 118

Geilo: 84

Geography: 4

Glacier Bus: 119–120, 126

Glaciers: about, 85; Jostedal, 111–112; Nigard, 112, 119–121; Norwegian Glacier Museum (Fjærland), 112

GlasMagasinet: 22, 59

Glittertinden: 141

Gokstad (ship): 48

Golden House (Balestrand): 108–109

Gol Stave Church: 47

Government: 5

Grand Café: 24, 69

Grand Hotel: 24

Grasbrokke: 194

Grendi: 195

Grieg’s (Edvard) Home: 167–168

Grønland: 20, 53; eating, 72

Grünerløkka: 27, 53–58; eating, 71–72; map, 54

Gudbrandsdal Valley: 130–136; eating, 136; map, 131; planning tips, 130–131; sleeping, 135–136

Gude, Hans: 36–37

Gudvangen: 128–129; boat travel, 87–88; bus travel, 83, 88–89

Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 203; updates, 16, 149, 204

Guided tours: See Tours

Gynt Veien: 134

H

Hafslo: 118

Håkon Hall (Lillehammer): 134

Håkon’s Hall (Bergen): 160–161

Hallingdal Valley: 84

Hanseatic Assembly Rooms (Bergen): 155

Hanseatic League: overview, 158–159

Hanseatic Museum (Bergen): 157, 162

Hanseatic Quarter (Bergen): See Bryggen

Hardanger Fjord: 191

Haukeligrend: 192

Heimen Husfliden: 59

Hella: ferry, 115, 117

Helpful hints: 202–203; Bergen, 149; Oslo, 15–16

Henrik Ibsens Gate: 18

Herring: 187, 201

Heyerdahl, Thor: 50

Hiking: Balestrand, 107–108, 109; Bergen, 165; Flåm, 91, 92–93; Hovden, 193; Jotunheimen Mountains, 141–143; Nigard Glacier, 120–121; Oslo, 53, 55; Pulpit Rock, 187–188

Hirtshals, Denmark: boat travel, 190, 196–197

Historisk Museum: 19, 40–41

Holidays: 5, 203

Holmenkollen Ski Jump: 26–27, 50–51

Holmenkollen Ski Museum: 26–27, 50–51

Holocaust Center: 27, 49

Honneevje: 194

Honse-Lovisas Hus: 57

Hopperstad Stave Church: 110–111

Hostels: Bergen, 173–174; Flåm, 96; Oslo, 65–66

Hotels: See Sleeping; and specific destinations

House of Oslo: 18

Hovden: 192–194

Hovden Badeland: 193

Hurrungane: 142

Hurtigruten: 178–179

Husfliden: Bergen, 166; Oslo, 59

I

Ibsen, Henrik: 18, 24, 55, 160

Internet access: Bergen, 149; Oslo, 15

Itineraries: Bergen, 145–146; fjords of Norway, 77–78; Gudbrandsdal Valley, 130–131; Oslo, 11; South Norway, 180–181

J

Jostedal Glacier: 111–112. See also Nigard Glacier

Jotunheimen Mountains: 137–143; map, 131

Juvasshytta: 142

K

Karl Johans Gate: 11, 21–22, 23–24; eating, 69–70; map, 20–21; sleeping near, 61–64

Kaupanger: boat travel, 126–127

King Bele’s Way (Balestrand): 109

Kjosfossen: 86

Kon-Tiki Museum: 26, 50

Kristiansand: 195–198

Krohg, Christian: 34, 37, 38, 164

Kroner, Norwegian: 5, 199

Kvam: sleeping, 136

Kviknes Hotel (Balestrand): 107–108, 112–113, 114

L

Lærdal Tunnel: 93–94

Language: 6–7; survival phrases, 205

Laundry: Bergen, 149; Oslo, 16

Leirvassbu: 142

Leprosy Museum (Bergen): 163–164

Lillehammer: 132–136; eating, 136; sights, 132–135; sleeping, 135–136

Liquor stores: 59–60, 201

“Little Pakistan:” 20, 53; eating, 72

Lom: 137–140

Lom Stave Church: 138–139

Luster: Dale Church, 118–119

Lustrafjord: 117–127; sleeping, 124–126; transportation, 117–118, 126–127

Lysefjord: 187

Lysverket (Bergen): 164

Language: 6–7; survival phrases, 191

Laundry: Bergen, 141; Oslo, 16

Ledaal (Stavanger): 173

Leirvassbu: 135

Leprosy Museum (Bergen): 153

Lillehammer: 124–127; eating, 129; sleeping, 127–128

“Little Pakistan”: See Grønland

Lom: 130–132; sleeping near, 132–133

Lom Stave Church: 131–132

Luster: 110, 111–112

Lustrafjord: 94, 110–120, 135; transportation, 119–120

Lysefjord: 174

M

Maihaugen Open-Air Folk Museum (Lillehammer): 132–134

Mannheller: boat travel, 127

Mariakirken (Bergen): 154–155

Maridalsvannet: 52

Maritime museums: Fram Museum, 26, 49–50; Kon-Tiki Museum, 26, 50; Norwegian Maritime Museum, 27, 50; Stavanger Maritime Museum, 187; Viking Ship Museum, 26, 48–49

Markets: Oslo, 59. See also Fish markets

Metric system: 203

Mølstertunet Folk Museum (Voss): 89

Money: 199–200. See also Currency and exchange

Money-saving tips: Bergen, 147; Oslo, 12–13, 60–61, 66–67, 69

Moose Safari (Hovden): 193

Mountain Museum (Lom): 137

Mount Fløyen (Bergen): 147, 158, 163; eating, 176

Munch, Edvard: 38–40, 55, 164–165; biographical sketch, 39; Museum, 27, 51–52

Munch Museet: 27, 51–52

Museum of Iron Production (Hovden): 193

Museums: Armed Forces Museum, 33; Bryggens Museum (Bergen), 155, 161–162; Hanseatic Museum (Bergen), 157, 162; Holmenkollen Ski Museum, 26–27, 50–51; Leprosy Museum (Bergen), 163–164; Museum of Iron Production (Hovden), 193; Museum Stavanger, 187; National Historical Museum, 19, 40–41; Nobel Peace Center, 27, 28, 30–31; Norwegian Holocaust Center, 27, 49; Norwegian Petroleum Museum (Stavanger), 184–185; Norwegian Resistance Museum, 26, 32–33; Norwegian Travel Museum (Balestrand), 107; Oslo City Museum, 44–45; Setesdal Museum (Flateland), 194. See also Art museums; Maritime museums; Open-air museums

Myrdal: train travel, 86–87

N

Nærøydal: 88

Nærøyfjord: 87–88, 91–92, 128–129

Nansen, Fridtjof: 30, 49–50

National Gallery: 19, 26, 33–40; map, 35

National Historical Museum: 19, 40–41

National Theater (Bergen): 159–160

National Theater (Oslo): 24

Nes: sleeping, 124

Nigard Glacier: 112, 119–121

Nobel, Alfred: 31

Nobel Peace Center: 27, 28, 30–31

Nomeland: 195

Norges Hjemmefrontmuseum: 32–33

Norges Olympiske Museum (Lillehammer): 134

Norsk Folkemuseum: 26, 47–48

Norsk Oljemuseum (Stavanger): 184–185

Norsk Reiselivsmuseum (Balestrand): 107

Norsk Sjøfartsmuseum: 50

North Sea oil: 144, 184–185

Norway attacks of 2011: 56–57

Norway fjords: See Fjords of Norway

Norway in a Nutshell: 76–100; maps, 77, 81; package tours, 17, 81–82, 92; planning tips, 77–78; self-guided tour, 84–100; transportation, 78–83

Norwegian Canning Museum (Stavanger): 187

Norwegian cuisine: 68

Norwegian Emigration Center (Stavanger): 185–186

Norwegian Folk Museum: 26, 47–48

Norwegian Glacier Museum (Fjærland): 112

Norwegian Holocaust Center: 27, 49

Norwegian language: 6–7; survival phrases, 205

Norwegian Maritime Museum: 27, 50

Norwegian Olympics Museum (Lillehammer): 134

Norwegian Parliament: 24

Norwegian Petroleum Museum (Stavanger): 184–185

Norwegian Resistance Museum: 26, 32–33

Norwegian survival phrases: 205

Norwegian sweaters: 59, 157, 166

Norwegian Travel Museum (Balestrand): 107

O

Odda: 191

Olaf Ryes Plass: 57

Ole Bulls Plass (Bergen): 159; eating, 175–176

Olympics Museum (Lillehammer): 134

“One-time grills” (engangsgrill): 67

Open-air museums: Maihaugen Open-Air Folk Museum (Lillehammer), 132–134; Molstertunet Folk Museum (Voss), 89; Norwegian Folk Museum, 26, 47–48

Opera House: 27, 31

Oscarsborg Fortress (Drøbak): 58–59

Oseberg (ship): 48

Oslo: 10–75; at a glance, 26–27; arrival in, 14–15; eating, 66–73; helpful hints, 15–16; maps, 13, 20–21, 46, 62–63; orientation, 11–12; planning tips, 11; shopping, 59–60; sights, 29–59; sleeping, 60–66; tourist information, 12–13; tours, 17–18; tram tour, 18–19; transportation, 14–15, 16–17, 73–75; walking tour, 19–28

Oslo Airport: 14–15

Oslo Bymuseum: 44–45

Oslo Cathedral: 22

Oslo City Hall: 18, 24–25, 26, 29–30; eating, 28, 30, 70

Oslo City Museum: 44–45

Oslo Fjord Tours: 17, 81–82

Oslo Flaggfabrikk: 59

Oslo Guide: 12, 66

Oslo Harborfront: 25, 28–31; beaches, 52; eating, 70–71

Oslo Opera House: 27, 31

Oslo Pass: 12–13, 16

Oslo Sentralstasjon (train station): 14–15, 18, 19; sleeping near, 61–65; tourist information, 12

Oslo Sweater Shop: 59

Oslo Tourist Information Center: 12

Otternes Farms: 93

P

Packing checklist: 204

Parliament Building: 24

Passports: 202–203, 204

Peer Gynt Seterveien: 134

Peterssen, Eilif: 37

Petroleum Museum (Stavanger): 184–185

Pharmacies: Oslo, 16

Phoning: 200

Pickpocket alert: 15, 203

Police: 202

Pølse: 115

Population: 4

Post offices, in Oslo: 16

Printing Museum (Stavanger): 187

Pulpit Rock: 187–188

R

Rådhuset: See Oslo City Hall

Radisson Blu Plaza Hotel: 20, 53

Ra II: 50

Railpasses: 81, 82, 203

Reader feedback: 204

Rockne, Knute: 89

Rødne Clipper Fjord Sightseeing: 187, 188

Røldal: 192

Rosenkrantz Tower (Bergen): 161

Ruter: 16

Rygge Airport: 15

S

St. Mary’s Church (Bergen): 154–155

St. Olaf’s Church (Balestrand): 108

St. Olav’s Church (Oslo): 55

St. Swithun’s Cathedral (Stavanger): 183–184

Sami (Lapp) culture: 4, 41, 47

Sandefjord Airport Torp: 15

Scream, The (Munch): 40

Seafarers’ Monument (Bergen): 158–159

Setesdal Mineral Park (Evje): 195

Setesdal Museum (Flateland): 194

Setesdal Valley: 191–195; map, 192

Shopping: Bergen, 166; Oslo, 59–60. See also Markets; Sweaters

Sights: Bergen, 160–166; Lillehammer, 132–135; Lom, 138–139, 139–140; Stavanger, 183–188. See also specific sights

Ski jumps: 134; Holmenkollen, 26–27, 50–51

Ski Museum, Holmenkollen: 26–27, 50–51

Skjolden: 117, 118, 143

Sleeping: Aurland, 98–99; Balestrand, 112–114; Bergen, 168–174; Flåm, 95–96; Hovden, 194; Kristiansand, 196–197; Kvam, 136; Lillehammer, 135–136; Lustrafjord, 124–126; Oslo, 60–66; reservations, 200–201; Solvorn, 124–125; Stavanger, 188–189; Valle, 195

Smörgåsbord: 105, 114, 201

“Snow Road”: 94, 127–128

Sogndal: sleeping, 125–126

Sognefjell Road: 142–143

Sognefjord: 76–117; boat travel, 78–79, 83, 85, 87–88, 116; Lustrafjord, 117–127; maps, 77, 102–103; package deals, 17, 81–82, 92; planning tips, 77–78, 104; scenic drives, 127–129, 142–143; self-guided tour, 84–100; transportation, 78–83

Sognefjorden Sightseeing & Tours: 92

Sognsvann: 52

Sohlberg, Harald: 38

Sola Airport (Stavanger): 183

Solvorn: 121–122; eating, 125; sleeping, 124–125

South Norway: 180–198; map, 3

Spindelvev (Balestrand): 107

Spiterstulen: 141

Stalheim Hotel: 88, 128

Stalheimskleiva: 88–89, 128

Stavanger: 181–190; eating, 189–190; map, 182; sights, 183–188; sleeping, 188–189; tourist information, 183; transportation, 183, 190

Stavanger Cathedral: 183–184

Stavanger Maritime Museum: 187

Stavanger Museum: 187

Stave churches: 7–9; Borgund, 94–95; Fantoft, 168; Gol, 47; Hopperstad, 110–111; Lom, 138–139; Urnes, 122–124

Stegastein Viewpoint: 94, 128

Stortinget (Parliament): 24

Stortorvet: 19, 22

Sundt-Hansen, Carl: 37–38

Sweaters: 59, 157, 166

Swimming: 53, 166, 193. See also Beaches

T

Taxis: Bergen, 152; Oslo, 15, 16–17

Telephones: 200

Telthusbakken Road: 56

Theft alert: 15, 203

Theta Museum (Bergen): 156, 162

Thon Hotels: 61–64

Thorvald Meyers Gate: 57

Tidemand, Adolph: 36–37

Time zone: 203

Tjuvholmen: 28

Torgallmenningen (Bergen): 159

Tour guides: Balestrand, 106; Bergen, 152; Oslo, 18

Tourist information: 204; Aurland, 98; Balestrand, 106; Bergen, 147; Flåm, 90–91; Hovden, 193; Lillehammer, 132; Lom, 137; Oslo, 12–13; Stavanger, 183

Tours: Bergen, 152–153; Oslo, 17–18; Sognefjord, 17, 81–82, 92. See also Walking tours

Tøyenbadet: 53

Train travel: 202; sleeping on the train, 66; Bergen, 82–83, 84, 86, 89–90, 147, 177–178; fjords of Norway, 78–79, 80, 82–83, 84, 86–87; Flåmsbana, 83, 86–87; Oslo, 14, 73–74; to/from airport, 14–15; Stavanger, 183, 190

Trams: Bergen, 149, 152; Oslo, 16, 18–19

Transportation: 202; Aurland, 97; Balestrand, 115–117; Bergen, 147–148, 149, 152, 177–179; fjords of Norway, 78–83; Lustrafjord, 117–118, 126–127; Oslo, 14–15, 16–17, 73–75; Stavanger, 183, 190. See also Boat travel and cruises; Buses; Car travel; Taxis; Train travel; Trams

Travel insurance: 204

Tregaarden’s Julehuset (Drøbak): 58

Troldhaugen: 167–168

Tusenfryd: 52–53

Tvindefossen: 89, 128

U

Ulriken643 Cable Car: 166–167

Undredal: 87, 99–100

Urnes Stave Church: 122–124

V

Vagsnes: 129

Valle: 194–195

Vangsnes: ferry, 115, 117

Vår Frelsers (Our Savior’s) Cemetery: 55

Vigeland, Gustav: 33–34; biographical sketch, 41; Frogner Park, 41–44; Museum, 44

Vik: 110–111, 129

Vikings: 2–4; Ship Museum, 26, 48–49

Viking Ship (Balestrand): 107, 115

Viking Ship Museum: 26, 48–49

Vikingskiphuset: 26, 48–49

Vinmonopolet: 201; Oslo, 59–60

Visitor information: See Tourist information

Voss: 89; bus travel, 83, 88–89; train travel, 89–90

W

Walking tours: Bergen, 153–160; guided, 152; Oslo, 19–28; guided, 17

Water park, in Oslo: 53

Werenskiold, Erik: 38

Wergeland, Henrik: 24

West End: sleeping, 65

Wet Fun: 53

What’s On in Oslo: 12, 13

White Lady: 153

World War II: 4–5; Norwegian Holocaust Center, 27, 49; Norwegian Resistance Museum, 26, 32–33; Theta Museum (Bergen), 156, 162