Chapter 5
IN THIS CHAPTER
Breaking down how important bidding is to the game
Examining the progression of the bidding
Checking out a bid’s structure and rank
Finding out who plays and who watches
Determining how strong your hand is
Bidding for the proper number of tricks is an important part of the game of Bridge. Some would say it’s what the game is all about! Successful bidding can either make or break your chances of fulfilling your contract.
In this chapter, you discover some of the fundamentals of bidding. You find out how the bidding progresses around the table, the proper way to make a legal bid, and how to assess the strength of your hand (so you can make good decisions about how many tricks you and your partner can reasonably expect to take). You certainly shouldn’t pass on this chapter.
Bidding determines the final contract for a hand. The pressure is on the partnership that gets (or buys) the final contract — that side has to win the number of tricks it contracts for. If the partnership fails to win that number of tricks, penalty points are scored by the opponents. If the partnership takes at least the number of tricks it has contracted for, it then scores points. (We talk about scoring in Book 5, Chapter 6.)
Based on the information exchanged during the bidding, the partnership has to decide how many tricks it thinks it can take. The partnership with the greater combined high-card strength usually winds up playing the hand. The declarer (the one who plays the hand) tries to take the number of tricks (or more) that his side has contracted for. The opponents, on the other hand, do their darndest to prevent the declarer from winning those tricks.
Partnerships exchange vital information about the makeup of their hands through a bidding system. Because you can’t tell your partner what you have in plain English, you have to use a legal Bridge bidding system. Think of it as a foreign language in which every bid you make carries some message. Although you can’t say to your partner, “Hey, partner, I have seven strong hearts but only one ace and one king,” an accurate bidding system can come close to describing such a hand.
Of course, everyone at the table hears your bid and everyone else’s bid at the table. No secrets are allowed. Your opponents are privy to the same information your bid tells your partner. Similarly, by listening to your opponents’ bidding, you get a feel for the cards that your opponents have (their strength and distribution). You can then use this information to your advantage when the play of the hand begins.
The bidding begins after the cards have been shuffled and dealt. The players pick up their hands and assess their strength (see “Valuing the Strength of Your Hand” later in this chapter for details). In the following sections, we explain the different elements of the bidding process one step at a time. Concentrate on the mechanics of the process.
The player who deals the cards has the first opportunity to either make a bid or pass. The dealer looks at her hand; if she has sufficient strength, she makes a bid that begins to describe the strength (honor cards) and distribution (how the cards are divided). If she doesn’t have enough strength to make the first bid, called the opening bid, she can say pass (not considered a bid).
After the dealer bids or passes, the bidding continues in a clockwise rotation. The next player can take one of two actions (for now):
He can’t make a bid unless he bids higher than the dealer’s bid. See “Bidding suits in the proper order” later in this chapter for more information on determining whether one bid is higher than another bid. If you’ve ever attended an auction, you can see why bidding is sometimes referred to as an auction — each bid must outrank the previous one.
After the second player bids or passes, the bidding follows a clockwise rotation to the next player at the table, the dealer’s partner. After someone opens the bidding with something other than pass (it’s not necessarily the dealer), the partner of the opening bidder is called the responder.
If the dealer opens the bidding, the responder has a chance to make a bid, called a response. This bid begins to describe the strength and distribution of the responding hand. The partnership is looking for some suit in which they have eight or more cards together, called an eight-card fit. It may take a few bids to uncover an eight-card fit. Sometimes it doesn’t exist, which is a bummer. The responder also has the option to pass her partner’s opening bid, which communicates more information (albeit of a rather depressing nature) about the strength of her hand.
The bidding continues clockwise around the table, with each player either making a bid higher than the last bid or passing. After a bid has been made, three successive passes ends the bidding. The partnership that makes the last bid has bought the contract and plays the hand, trying to take at least the number of tricks that corresponds to the final bid.
Note one special case that comes up once in a while during bidding. Sometimes no one wants to make an opening bid, as you can see in the following bidding sequence.
West |
North (Your Partner) |
East |
South (You) |
Pass |
Pass |
Pass |
Pass |
The hand has been passed out. Nobody wants to get on the elevator, not even on the lowly first floor! No player has a hand strong enough to open the bidding. When a hand is passed out, the cards are reshuffled and the same person deals again.
Bridge bids have a legal ranking structure all their own. Remember that each new bid any player makes must outrank the previous one.
During the bidding, players call out their bids to communicate information about their hands. Each bid you make is supposed to begin painting a picture of your strength and distribution to help the partnership arrive at the best final contract. Of course, your partner is doing the same with the same goal in mind. Bridge is a partnership game.
In the following sections, you get acquainted with the look and feel of the bids you use to describe your hand to your partner.
A bid consists of two elements:
When you make a bid, you don’t say, “I want to bid three in the spade suit.” Instead you simplify it: You say “three spades,” “four notrump,” “two diamonds,” and so on. When you see bids referred to in books (including the bids in this book), the bids are abbreviated to card number and suit symbol. For example, the written equivalent of the preceding bids looks like this: 3♠ (three spades), 4NT (four notrump), and 2♦ (two diamonds).
The numbers associated with a bid correspond to bidding levels. Bids of 1♠, 1♥, 1♦, and 1♣ are called one-level bids. A bid that starts with a 3 is a three-level bid. The highest level is the seven level. (Doing a little math tells you that 7NT, 7♠, 7♥, 7♦, and 7♣ are the highest bids because 7 + 6 = 13.)
During the bidding, players can’t make a bid unless their bid is higher than the previous bid. In Bridge, two factors determine whether your bid is legal:
To see how the rank of the suits comes into play during the bidding, consider the following example. Assume that you are seated in the South position:
South (You) |
West |
North (Your Partner) |
East |
1♥ |
? |
Suppose that you open the bidding with 1♥. Because the bidding goes clockwise, West has the next chance to bid. West doesn’t have to bid if he doesn’t want to; however, the most likely reason for not bidding is that West simply doesn’t have a strong enough hand. West can say “Pass” (which is not considered a bid).
However, if West wants to join in the fun, he must make some bid that is higher ranking than 1♥. For example, West can bid 1♠ or 1NT because both of these bids are higher ranking than a 1♥ bid. However, he can’t bid 1♣ or 1♦ because these suits are lower than the current heart bid.
On the other hand, if West wants to bid diamonds (a lower-ranking suit than hearts), West must bid at least 2♦ for his bid to be legal. That is, only by upping the level of the bid (from 1 to 2) can West make a legal bid in diamonds.
When three consecutive passes follow a bid, the last bid is the final contract. The following issues are resolved when the bidding is over:
In the following example, you can see the bids each player makes during a sample bidding sequence. You don’t see the cards on which each player bases his or her bid — they aren’t important for now. Just follow the bidding around the table, noting how each bid is higher than the one before it. Assume that you’re in the South position.
South (You) |
West |
North (Your Partner) |
East |
1♥ |
Pass |
2♣ |
2♦ |
3♣ |
3♦ |
4♥ |
Pass |
Pass |
Pass |
After your opening 1♥ bid, West passes and your partner (North) bids 2♣. East joins in with a bid of 2♦, a bid that is higher than 2♣. When it’s your turn to bid again, you show support for your partner’s clubs by bidding 3♣. Then West comes to life and supports East’s diamonds by bidding 3♦. Your partner (don’t forget your partner) chimes in with 4♥, a bid that silences everybody. Both East and West decide to pass, just as they would at an auction when the bidding gets too rich for their blood.
It has been a somewhat lively auction, and your side has bought the contract with your partner’s 4♥ bid, which means you need to take ten tricks to make your contract. (Remember, a book — six tricks — is automatically added to the bid.) If you don’t make your contract, the opponents score penalty points and you get zilch. The final contract of 4♥ also designates hearts as the trump suit.
If your partnership buys the final contract, the bidding determines who plays the hand (the declarer) and who kicks back and watches the action (the dummy). For example, if the final contract ends in some number of hearts, whoever bid hearts first becomes the declarer, and his partner is the dummy.
Take a look at this sample bidding sequence:
South (You) |
West |
North (Your Partner) |
East |
1♥ |
Pass |
2♣ |
2♦ |
3♣ |
3♦ |
4♥ |
Pass |
Pass |
Pass |
The contract ends in 4♥, which is the final bid because it’s followed by three passes. Both you and your partner bid hearts during the bidding. However, you bid hearts first, which makes you the declarer.
The player to the left of the declarer (in this case, West) makes the opening lead, and the partner of the declarer (North) is the dummy. After the opening lead, the dummy puts down her cards face-up in four vertical columns, one for each suit: the trump suit, hearts, to her right and bows out of the action.
During the bidding, try to work out the strength and distribution of your partner’s hand, at the same time trying to tell your partner the strength and distribution of your hand. The point of this communication is to determine the best trump suit, including notrump, and then finally to decide how many tricks to contract for. Consider two elements when valuing the strength of your hand:
In the following sections, we give you an idea of what you need in terms of strength (high-card points) and distribution (the number of cards you have in each suit) to enter the bidding.
These points are called high-card points (HCP). Most players use this barometer to measure the initial strength of their hand.
Each suit contains 10 HCP, totaling 40 HCP in the deck. When you know from the bidding the total number of HCP your partnership has, you’ll have an easier time deciding how many tricks to contract for.
Why should you care about the distribution of the cards (that is, how many cards you or your partner has in any one suit)? For you and your partner to land in a safe trump-suit contract, you want to have at least eight cards in the same suit between the two hands, called an eight-card trump fit. Bidding, to a great extent, is geared toward locating such a fit, preferably in a major suit.