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Muir Beach | Stinson Beach | Bolinas | Point Reyes National Seashore
The winds whip wildly around Marin County’s miles of coastline. If you’ve never heard sand “sing” as the wind rustles through it you’re in for a treat––though when it lands in your sandwich you might not rejoice. But when the weather’s calm and sunny as you stroll Stinson Beach—or you’re communing with nature at rocky Muir Beach—you’ll realize this landscape is ever so choice.
Getting Here and Around
If you’re driving, take the Highway 1–Stinson Beach exit off U.S. 101 and follow Highway 1, also signed as Shoreline Highway, west and then north. Public transit serves Stinson Beach and Bolinas but not Muir Beach.
Muir Beach
12 miles northwest of Golden Gate Bridge, 6 miles southwest of Mill Valley.
Except on the sunniest of weekends Muir Beach is relatively quiet. But this craggy cove has seen its share of history. Sir Francis Drake disembarked here five centuries ago, rock star Janis Joplin’s ashes were scattered here among the sands, and this is where author Ken Kesey hosted the second of his famed Acid Tests.
Getting Here and Around
A car is the best way to reach Muir Beach. From Highway 1, follow Pacific Way southwest ¼ mile.
Exploring
Green Gulch Farm Zen Center.
Giant eucalyptus trees frame the long and winding road that leads to this tranquil retreat. Meditation programs, workshops, and various events take place here, and there’s an extensive organic garden. Visitors are welcome to roam the acres of gardens that reach down toward Muir Beach. TIP Follow the main dirt road to a peaceful path (birds, trees, ocean breezes) that meanders to the beach. | 1601 Shoreline Hwy., at Green Gulch Rd. | Muir Beach | 415/383–3134 | www.sfzc.org | Free | Tues.–Sat. 9–noon and 2–4, Sun. 9–10 am.
Beaches
FAMILY | Muir Beach.
Small but scenic, this beach—a rocky patch of shoreline off Highway 1 in the northern Marin Headlands—is a good place to stretch your legs and gaze out at the Pacific. Locals often walk their dogs here; families and cuddling couples come for picnicking and sunbathing. At one end of the sand are waterfront homes (and where nude sunbathers lay their towels), and at the other are the bluffs of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. Amenities: parking (free); toilets. Best for: solitude; nudists; walking. | 190 Pacific Way, off Shoreline Hwy. | Muir Beach | www.nps.gov/goga/planyourvisit/muirbeach.htm.
Where to Stay
Pelican Inn.
$$$ | B&B/INN | From its slate roof to its whitewashed plaster walls, this inn looks so Tudor that it’s hard to believe it was built in the 1970s, but the Pelican is English to the core, with its smallish guest rooms upstairs (no elevator), high half-tester beds draped in heavy fabrics, and bangers and grilled tomatoes for breakfast. Downstairs, the little pub pours ales and ports, and “the Snug” is a private fireplace lounge for overnight guests. At dinner in the tavernlike or solarium dining rooms, keep it simple with fish-and-chips, roasted hen, or prime rib, and focus on the well-crafted wine list. Lunch is served, too—a good thing, since your nearest alternatives are miles away via winding roads. Pros: five-minute walk to beach; great bar and restaurant; peaceful setting. Cons: 20-minute drive to nearby attractions; some rooms are quite small. | Rooms from: $222 | 10 Pacific Way, off Hwy. 1 | Muir Beach | 415/383–6000 | www.pelicaninn.com | 7 rooms | Breakfast.
Stinson Beach
20 miles northwest of Golden Gate Bridge.
This laid-back hamlet is all about the beach, and folks come from all over the Bay Area to walk its sandy, often windswept shore. Ideal day trip: a morning Mt. Tam hike followed by lunch at one of Stinson’s unassuming eateries and leisurely beach stroll.
Getting Here and Around
If you’re driving, take the Highway 1–Stinson Beach exit off U.S. 101 and follow the road west and then north. The journey from San Francisco can take from 35 minutes to more than an hour, depending on traffic. By bus, take the 10, 70, or 80 to Marin City; in Marin City transfer to the West Marin Stagecoach. The intimate town is perfect for casual walking.
Beaches
FAMILY | Stinson Beach.
When the fog hasn’t rolled in, this expansive stretch of sand is about as close as you can get in Marin to the stereotypical feel of a Southern California beach. There are several clothing-optional areas, among them a section called Red Rock Beach. WARNING: Swimming at Stinson Beach is recommended only from early May through September, when lifeguards are on duty, because the undertow can be strong and shark sightings, although infrequent, aren’t unheard of. On any hot summer weekend, every road to Stinson is jam-packed, so factor this into your plans. The down-to-earth town itself—population 600, give or take—has a surfer vibe, with a few good eating options and pleasant hippie-craftsy browsing. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (free); showers; toilets. Best for: nudists; sunset; surfing; swimming; walking. | Hwy. 1 | Stinson Beach | www.stinsonbeachonline.com.
Where to Eat and Stay
FAMILY | Parkside Cafe.
$$ | AMERICAN | The Parkside is popular for its beachfront snack bar (cash only), but inside is Stinson Beach’s best restaurant, with classic offerings such as clam chowder, Dungeness crab, and rock-shrimp risotto. Breakfast is served until 2 pm. Creeping vines on the sunny patio shelter diners from the wind; for a cozier ambience eat by the fire in the dining room. | Average main: $20 | 43 Arenal Ave., off Shoreline Hwy. | Stinson Beach | 415/868–1272 | www.parksidecafe.com.
Sand Dollar Restaurant.
$$ | AMERICAN | The town’s oldest restaurant still attracts all the old salts from Muir Beach to Bolinas, but these days they sip whiskey at an up-to-date bar or beneath market umbrellas on the spiffy deck. The food is good—try the fish tacos—but the big draw is the lively atmosphere. Musicians play on Sunday in summer, and on sunny afternoons the deck gets so packed that people sit on the fence rails sipping beer. | Average main: $20 | 3458 Shoreline Hwy. | Stinson Beach | 415/868–0434 | www.stinsonbeachrestaurant.com.
FAMILY | Sandpiper Lodging.
$ | B&B/INN | Recharge, rest, and enjoy the local scenery at this ultra-popular lodging that books up months, even years, in advance. In addition to the pristine motel rooms, there are four adorable cabins with fireplaces and a cute two-bedroom cottage. Some rooms have kitchenettes. Pros: bright rooms; lush gardens; minutes from the beach. Cons: walls are thin; some guests say motel rooms are overpriced. | Rooms from: $145 | 1 Marine Way, at Arenal Ave. | Stinson Beach | 415/868–1632 | www.sandpiperstinsonbeach.com | 6 rooms, 4 cabins, 1 cottage | No meals.
Stinson Beach Motel.
$ | B&B/INN | Built in the 1930s, this motel surrounds three courtyards that burst with flowering greenery, and rooms are clean, simple, and summery. The motel is on the main drag, so it’s convenient to everything in town, but things can get noisy on busy summer weekend days. Though all rooms face a central courtyard, and not the street, Room 3 has the most privacy. Weekday room rates ($95–$125) are a bargain for the North Coast; most of what you’re paying for here is the location. Pros: minutes from the beach; cozy, unpretentious rooms; kitchenettes in cottages. Cons: smaller rooms are cramped. | Rooms from: $140 | 3416 Shoreline Hwy. | Stinson Beach | 415/868–1712 | www.stinsonbeachmotel.com | 6 rooms, 2 cottages | No meals.
En Route: Martin Griffin Preserve.
A 1,000-acre wildlife sanctuary along the Bolinas Lagoon, this Audubon Canyon Ranch preserve gets the most traffic during late spring, when great blue herons and egrets nest in the evergreens covering the hillside. It’s spectacular to see these large birds in white and gray, dotting the tops of the trees. Quiet trails through the rest of the preserve offer tremendous vistas of the Bolinas Lagoon and Stinson Beach—and fabulous birding. On weekends, “Ranch Guides” are posted throughout to point out nests—scopes are provided—and answer questions. During the week, check in at the small bookstore and take a self-guided tour. | 4900 Shoreline Hwy. 1, between Stinson Beach and Bolinas | Stinson Beach | 415/868–9244 | www.egret.org | Free | Closed mid-Dec.–mid-Mar.
Bolinas
7 miles north of Stinson Beach.
The tiny town of Bolinas wears its 1960s idealism on its sleeve, attracting potters, poets, and peace lovers to its quiet streets. With a funky gallery, a general store selling organic produce, a café, and an offbeat saloon, the main thoroughfare, Wharf Road, looks like a hippie-fied version of Main Street, USA.
Getting Here and Around
Bolinas isn’t difficult to find, though locals notoriously remove the street sign for their town from the highway: heading north from Stinson Beach, follow Highway 1 west and then north. Make a left at the first road just past the Bolinas Lagoon (Olema–Bolinas Rd.), and then turn left at the stop sign. The road dead-ends smack-dab in the middle of town. By bus, take the 10, 70, or 80 to Marin City; in Marin City, transfer to the West Marin Stagecoach. Walking is the only way to see this small town.
Where to Eat
Coast Cafe.
$$ | AMERICAN | Decked out in a nautical theme with surfboards and buoys, the dining room at the Coast serves dependably good American fare, including specials such as shepherd’s pie, local fresh fish, grass-fed steaks, and gorgeous salads. Live music accompanies dinner on Thursday and Sunday. On weekends, the café is open for brunch. | Average main: $16 | 46 Wharf Rd., off Olema–Bolinas Rd. | Bolinas | 415/868–2298 | Closed Mon.
Point Reyes National Seashore
Bear Valley Visitor Center is 12 miles north of Bolinas.
With sandy beaches stretching for miles, a dramatic rocky coastline, a gem of a lighthouse, and idyllic, century-old dairy farms, Point Reyes National Seashore is one of the most varied and strikingly beautiful corners of the Bay Area.
Getting Here and Around
From San Francisco, take U.S. 101 north, head west at Sir Francis Drake Boulevard (Exit 450B), and follow the road just under 20 miles to Bear Valley Road. From Stinson Beach or Bolinas, drive north on Highway 1 and turn left on Bear Valley Road. If you’re going by bus, take one of several Golden Gate Transit buses to Marin City; in Marin City transfer to the West Marin Stagecoach (you’ll switch buses in Olema). Once at the visitor center, the best way to get around is on foot.
Exploring
FAMILY | Bear Valley Visitor Center.
A life-size orca model hovers over the center’s engaging exhibits about the wildlife and history of the Point Reyes National Seashore. The rangers at the barnlike facility are fonts of information about beaches, whale-watching, hiking trails, and camping. Winter hours may be shorter and summer weekend hours may be longer; call or check the website for details. | Bear Valley Visitor Center Access Rd., west of Hwy. 1 | 415/464–5100 | www.nps.gov/pore/planyourvisit | Weekdays 10–5, weekends 9–5.
FAMILY | Duxbury Reef.
Excellent tide pooling can be had along mile-long Duxbury Reef, the largest shale intertidal reef in North America. Look for sea stars, barnacles, sea anemones, purple urchins, limpets, sea mussels, and the occasional abalone. But check a tide table (www.wrh.noaa.gov/mtr/marine.php) or the local papers if you plan to explore the reef—it’s accessible only at low tide. The reef is a 30-minute drive from the Bear Valley Visitor Center. Take Highway 1 south from the center, turn right at Olema–Bolinas Road (keep an eye peeled; the road is easy to miss), left on Horsehoe Hill Road, right on Mesa Road, left on Overlook Drive, and then right on Elm Road, which dead-ends at the Agate Beach County Park parking lot.
FAMILY | Point Blue Conservation Science.
Birders adore Point Blue, which lies in the southernmost part of Point Reyes National Seashore and is accessed through Bolinas. (Those not interested in birds might find it ho-hum.) The unstaffed Palomarin Field Station, open daily from sunrise to sunset, has excellent interpretive exhibits, including a comparative display of real birds’ talons. The surrounding woods harbor more than 200 bird species. As you hike the quiet trails through forest and along ocean cliffs, you’re likely to see biologists banding birds to aid in the study of their life cycles. TIP Visit Point Blue’s website to find out when banding will occur; it’s a fun time to come here. | Mesa Rd. | Bolinas | 415/868–0655 | www.pointblue.org | Free | Daily sunrise–sunset.
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Point Reyes Lighthouse.
In operation since December 1, 1870, this lighthouse is one of the premier attractions of the Point Reyes National Seashore. It occupies the tip of Point Reyes, 22 miles from the Bear Valley Visitor Center, a scenic 45-minute drive over hills scattered with longtime dairy farms. The lighthouse originally cast a rotating beam lighted by four wicks that burned lard oil. Keeping the wicks lighted and the 6,000-pound Fresnel lens soot-free in Point Reyes’s perpetually foggy climate was a constant struggle that reputedly drove the early attendants to alcoholism and insanity.
TIP The lighthouse is one of the best spots on the coast for watching gray whales. On both legs of their annual migration, the magnificent animals pass close enough to see with the naked eye. Southern migration peaks in mid-January, and the whales head back north in March; see the slower mothers and calves in late April and early May.
On busy whale-watching weekends (from late December through mid-April), buses shuttle visitors from the Drakes Beach parking lot to the top of the stairs leading down to the lighthouse (Bus $7, admission free) and the road is closed to private vehicles. However you’ve arrived, consider whether you have it in you to walk down—and up—the 308 steps to the lighthouse. The view from the bottom is worth the effort, but the whales are visible from the cliffs above the lighthouse. | Visitor Center, Western end of Sir Francis Drake Blvd. | Inverness | 415/669–1534 | Fri.–Mon. 10–4:30; weather lens room mid-Apr.–Dec., Fri.–Mon. 2:30–4 except during very windy weather.
Fodor’s Choice | Point Reyes National Seashore.
One of the Bay Area’s most spectacular treasures and the only national seashore on the West Coast, the 66,500-acre Point Reyes National Seashore encompasses hiking trails, secluded beaches, and rugged grasslands as well as Point Reyes itself, a triangular peninsula that juts into the Pacific. The town of Point Reyes Station is a one-main-drag affair with some good places to eat and gift shops that sell locally made and imported goods.
When explorer Sir Francis Drake sailed along the California coast in 1579, he missed the Golden Gate and San Francisco Bay, but he did land at what he described as a convenient harbor. In 2012 the federal government finally officially recognized Drake’s Bay, which flanks the point on the east, as that harbor, designating the spot a National Historic Landmark and silencing competing claims in the 433-year-old controversy. Today Point Reyes’s hills and dramatic cliffs attract other kinds of explorers: hikers, whale-watchers, and solitude seekers.
The infamous San Andreas Fault runs along the park’s eastern edge and up the center of Tomales Bay; take the short Earthquake Trail from the visitor center to see the impact near the epicenter of the 1906 earthquake that devastated San Francisco. A ½-mile path from the visitor center leads to Kule Loklo, a reconstructed Miwok village that sheds light on the daily lives of the region’s first inhabitants. From here, trails also lead to the park’s free, hike-in campgrounds (camping permits are required).
TIP In late winter and spring, take the short walk at Chimney Rock, just before the lighthouse, to the Elephant Seal Overlook. Even from the cliff, the male seals look enormous as they spar, growling and bloodied, for resident females.
You can experience the diversity of Point Reyes’s ecosystems on the scenic Coast Trail, which starts at the Palomarin Trailhead, just outside Bolinas. From here, it’s a 3-mile trek through eucalyptus groves and pine forests and along seaside cliffs to beautiful and tiny Bass Lake. To reach the Palomarin Trailhead, take Olema–Bolinas Road toward Bolinas, follow signs to Point Blue Conservation Science, and then continue until the road dead-ends.
The 4.7-mile-long (one-way) Tomales Point Trail follows the spine of the park’s northernmost finger of land through a Tule Elk Preserve, providing spectacular ocean views from the high bluffs. Expect to see elk, but keep your distance from the animals. To reach the fairly easy hiking trail, look for the Pierce Point Road turnoff on the right, just north of the town of Inverness; park at the end of the road by the old ranch buildings. | Bear Valley Visitor Center, Bear Valley Visitor Center Access Rd., off Hwy. 1 | Point Reyes Station | 415/464–5100 | www.nps.gov/pore.
Where to Eat
Café Reyes.
$ | ECLECTIC | In a triangular, semi-industrial room with glazed concrete floors and ceilings high enough to accommodate several full-size market umbrellas, you can mix and match Californian and international flavors. Wood-fired pizzas are the specialty, the sandwiches and salads come in generous portions, and regulars rave about the oysters. TIP On nice days, head for the outdoor patio. | Average main: $15 | 11101 Hwy. 1 | Point Reyes Station | 415/663–9493 | Closed Mon. and Tues.
Fodor’s Choice | Osteria Stellina.
$$ | ITALIAN | The vaguely industrial-chic overtones of this West Marin star’s otherwise rustic-contemporary decor hint at the panache that enlivens chef-owner Christian Caiazzo’s “Point Reyes Italian” cuisine. The emphasis on locally sourced ingredients makes for ingenious combinations—oysters harvested a just a few miles away, for instance, anchor a pizza with leeks braised in cream from Marin and Sonoma cows and garnished with parsley and lemon thyme. Pastas and pizzas dominate the menu, which might contain as few as two entrées for lunch and a handful for dinner. The hit at lunch, tomato minestra, is a lightly spiced seafood concoction reminiscent of gumbo; dinner might include osso buco that pairs Niman Ranch veal with Marin-grown kale, or braised goat with greens from Stellina’s own farm. | Average main: $19 | 11285 Hwy. 1, at 3rd St. | Point Reyes Station | 415/663–9988 | www.osteriastellina.com | Closed Thurs. in winter.
FAMILY | Pine Cone Diner.
$ | AMERICAN | Just off the main drag, this oh-so-cute diner serves great traditional breakfasts as well as Mexican specialties such as huevos rancheros. At lunch expect hearty homemade soups, fresh salads, and thick sandwiches, all made with local, organic ingredients. TIP Kids love the outdoor picnic tables. | Average main: $13 | 60 4th St., at B St. | Point Reyes Station | 415/663–1536 | No dinner.
Sir and Star at the Olema.
$$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | With a decor that incorporates taxidermied animals, service that some Marinites find uneven if not indifferent, and outré menu items such as goat shin, Sir and Star elicits both rants and raves, often from diners sharing the same table. If you’re up Point Reyes way, though, and ready for an indoor adventure to match your outdoor one, this restaurant by Margaret Gradé and Daniel DeLong, the owners of nearby Manka’s Inverness Lodge, is worth checking out. The menu changes seasonally, and the ingredients are often so local a dish might be named A Neighbor’s Quail (or duck) or Fritters of Coastal Kale. | Average main: $35 | 10000 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., at Hwy. 1 | Olema | 415/663–1034 | sirandstar.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and Tues. No lunch.
Station House Cafe.
$$ | AMERICAN | In good weather, hikers fresh from the park fill the Station House’s garden to enjoy alfresco dining, and on weekends there’s not a spare seat on the banquettes in the dining room, so prepare for a wait. If you come for dinner, your meal will kick off with the café’s signature popovers, then the focus is on local, seasonal, and sustainable food: oyster shooters, Niman Ranch braised lamb, Californian white sea bass, and sweet bread pudding are standbys. The place is also open for breakfast and lunch, and there’s a full bar. | Average main: $21 | 11180 Hwy. 1, at 2nd St. | Point Reyes Station | 415/663–1515 | www.stationhousecafe.com | Closed Wed.
FAMILY | Tomales Bay Foods.
$$$ | AMERICAN | A renovated hay barn off the main drag houses this collection of upscale food shops, a favorite stopover among Bay Area foodies. Watch workers making Cowgirl Creamery cheese, then buy some at a counter that sells exquisite artisanal cheeses from around the world. Tomales Bay Foods showcases local organic fruits and vegetables and premium packaged foods, and the Cowgirl Cantina turns the best ingredients into creative sandwiches, salads, and soups. You can eat at a small café table or the picnic areas outside. | Average main: $23 | 80 4th St., at B St. | Point Reyes Station | 415/663–9335 cheese shop | Closed Mon. and Tues. No dinner.
Where to Stay
FAMILY | Cottages at Point Reyes Seashore.
$$ | B&B/INN | Amid a 15-acre valley on the north end of town, this secluded getaway offers spacious one- and two-bedroom cabins with fireplaces and patios perfect for sunset barbecues and leisurely breakfasts. The cabins are modern, eco-friendly, and well lighted, with large windows and impressive skylights. The inn is ideal for families who want extra space and a kitchen (or kitchenette) for cooking. Extras include a pool, a hot tub, and tennis courts. Pros: spacious accommodations; great place to bring kids. Cons: 3-plus miles from downtown Inverness; small pool. | Rooms from: $160 | 13275 Sir Francis Drake Blvd. | Inverness | 415/669–7250, 800/406–0405 | www.cottagespointreyes.com | 20 cabins | No meals.
Manka’s Inverness Lodge.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | Chef-owner Margaret Gradé takes rustic fantasy to extravagant heights in her 1917 hunting lodge and cabins, where mica-shaded lamps cast an amber glow, and bearskin rugs warm wide-planked floors. Each element—feather beds, deep leather armchairs, huge soaking tubs—bespeaks sensuous indulgence, but this is a private hideaway, not a swanky resort with resort amenities and service. Dinner is available on Fridays and weekends for lodging guests only in the form of a fireside supper or in-room picnic. Gradé and Daniel deLong, also the chef/owners of the respected restaurant Sir and Star at the Olema, use locally sourced and seasonal ingredients from within a 15-mile radius to create boldly flavorful dishes that change daily according to what comes in from farmers, fishermen, and foragers. Pros: extremely romantic; remote and quiet. Cons: no on-site restaurant; sounds from neighboring rooms are easily heard; some question the value for the price. | Rooms from: $365 | 30 Callendar Way, at Argyle Way | Inverness | 415/669–1034 | www.mankas.com | 5 rooms, 2 suites, 1 boathouse, 2 cabins | No meals.
Motel Inverness.
$ | B&B/INN | This roadside row of rooms has everything a small-town motel should offer: friendly management, spotless accommodations, and extras that add real value. Some rooms have a small kitchen with cooking utensils. The lodge, a window-lined common room with skylighted cathedral ceiling, has a fireplace, a big-screen TV, a billiards table, and a kitchenette. Sliding glass doors open to a deck overlooking Tomales Bay. Guest rooms have been recently updated with new linens, bedding, and TVs. Pros: great views of Tomales Bay; comfy communal lodge with fireplace and pool table. Cons: some rooms are on the small side; the bedding could use a makeover. | Rooms from: $150 | 12718 Sir Francis Drake Blvd. | Inverness | 415/236–1967, 866/453–3839 | www.motelinverness.com | 5 rooms, 2 suites | No meals.
Ten Inverness Way.
$$ | B&B/INN | This is the kind of down-to-earth place where you sit around after breakfast and share tips for hiking Point Reyes or linger around the living room and its stone fireplace and library. New owners have put their stamp on the inn, replacing folksy decor with clean lines and an unfussy look; some rooms have dormer ceilings with skylights, and all have new, extra fluffy bedding. The owners, both professionally trained chefs, take pride in their breakfast spread, and wine and cheese and fresh-baked cookies are nice extras. You can shave $25 off your room rate if you opt out of the wine and cheese and complimentary breakfast. Ten Inverness Way describes its rooms as appropriate for children over the age of 12. Pros: great base for exploring the nearby wilderness; peaceful garden and friendly staff; exceptional breakfast. Cons: some rooms are on the small side; poor cell-phone reception. | Rooms from: $180 | 10 Inverness Way | Inverness | 415/669–1648 | www.teninvernessway.com | 5 rooms | Breakfast.
Sports and the Outdoors
Horseback Riding
Five Brooks Stable.
Tour guides here lead private and group horse rides lasting from one to six hours; trails from the stable wind through Point Reyes National Seashore and along the beaches. | 8001 Hwy. 1, north of town | Olema | 415/663–1570 | www.fivebrooks.com | From $40.
Kayaking
Blue Waters Kayaking.
This outfit rents kayaks and stand-up paddleboards and offers tours and lessons. Make a reservation for rentals to guarantee availability. | Tomales Bay Resort,12944 Sir Francis Drake Blvd. | Inverness | 415/669–2600 | www.bwkayak.com | From $25.