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The Marin Headlands | Sausalito | Tiburon | Mill Valley | Muir Woods National Monument | Mt. Tamalpais State Park
Marin is quite simply a knockout—some go so far as to call it spectacular and wild. This isn’t an extravagant claim, since more than 40% of the county (180,000 acres), including the majority of the coastline, is parkland. The territory ranges from chaparral, grassland, and coastal scrub to broadleaf and evergreen forest, redwood, salt marsh, and rocky shoreline. It’s well worth the drive over the Golden Gate Bridge to explore the Headlands and the stunning beauty of sprawling Point Reyes National Seashore, with more than 80 miles of shoreline.
Regardless of its natural beauty, what gave the county its reputation was Cyra McFadden’s 1977 book The Serial, a literary soap opera that depicted the county as a bastion of hot-tubbing and “open” marriages. Indeed old-time bohemian, but also increasingly jet-set, Marinites still spend a lot of time outdoors, and surfing, cycling, and hiking are common after-work and weekend activities. Adrenaline junkies mountain bike down Mt. Tamalpais, and those who want solitude take a walk on one of Point Reyes’s many empty beaches. The hot tub remains a popular destination, but things have changed since the boho days. Artists and musicians who arrived in the 1960s have set the tone for mellow country towns, but Marin is now undeniably chic, with BMWs supplanting VW buses as the cars of choice.
After exploring Marin’s natural beauty, consider a stop in one of its lovely villages. Most cosmopolitan is Sausalito, the town just over the Golden Gate Bridge from San Francisco. Across the inlet from Sausalito, Tiburon and Belvedere are lined with grand homes that regularly appear on fund-raising circuits, and to the north, landlocked Mill Valley is a hub of wining and dining and tony boutiques. Book Passage, a noted bookseller in the next town, Corte Madera, hosts regular readings by top-notch authors, and Larkspur, San Anselmo, and Fairfax beyond have walkable downtown areas, each a bit folksier than the next but all with good restaurants and shops and a distinct sense of place.
In general, the farther west of U.S. 101 you go the more countrified things become, and West Marin is about as far as you can get from the big city, both physically and ideologically. Separated from the inland county by the slopes and ridges of giant Mt. Tamalpais, this territory beckons to mavericks, artists, ocean lovers, and other free spirits. Stinson Beach has tempered its isolationist attitude to accommodate out-of-towners, as have Inverness and Point Reyes Station. Bolinas, on the other hand, would prefer you not know its location.
Visitor Information
Contact
Marin Convention & Visitors Bureau. | 1 Mitchell Blvd., Suite B, | San Rafael | 415/925–2060 | www.visitmarin.org.
The Marin Headlands
Due west of the Golden Gate Bridge’s northern end.
The term Golden Gate may now be synonymous with the world-famous bridge, but it originally referred to the grassy, poppy-strewn hills flanking the passageway into San Francisco Bay. To the north of the gate lie the Marin Headlands, part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area (GGNRA) and among the most dramatic scenery in these parts. Windswept hills plunge down to the ocean, and creek-fed thickets shelter swaying wildflowers.
Getting Here and Around
Driving from San Francisco, head north on U.S. 101. Just after you cross the Golden Gate Bridge, take the Alexander Avenue exit. From there take the first left (signs read “San Francisco/U.S. 101 South”), go through the tunnel under the freeway, and turn right up the hill where the sign reads “Forts Barry and Cronkhite.” Muni bus 76X runs hourly from Sutter and Sansome streets to the Marin Headlands Visitor Center on weekends and major holidays only. Once here, you can explore this beautiful countryside on foot.
Exploring
Top Attractions
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Marin Headlands.
The headlands stretch from the Golden Gate Bridge to Muir Beach. Photographers perch on the southern headlands for spectacular shots of the city, with the bridge in the foreground and the skyline on the horizon. Equally remarkable are the views north along the coast and out to sea, where the Farallon Islands are visible on clear days.
The headlands’ strategic position at the mouth of San Francisco Bay made them a logical site for World War II and cold-war military installations. Today you can explore the crumbling concrete batteries where naval guns protected the approaches from the sea. The headlands’ main attractions are centered on Forts Barry and Cronkhite, which lie just across Rodeo Lagoon from each other. Fronting the lagoon is Rodeo Beach, a dark stretch of sand that attracts sand-castle builders and dog owners. The beaches at the Marin Headlands are not safe for swimming. TIP The giant cliffs are steep and unstable, so hiking down them can be dangerous. Stay on trails.
The visitor center is a worthwhile stop for its exhibits on the area’s history and ecology, and kids enjoy the “please touch” educational sites and small play area inside. You can pick up guides to historic sites and wildlife at the center, as well as the park’s newspaper, which has a schedule of guided walks. | Visitor Center, Fort Barry Chapel, Fort Barry, Bldg. 948, Field and Bunker Rds. | Sausalito | 415/331–1540 | www.nps.gov/goga/marin-headlands.htm | Park sunrise–sunset visitor center daily 9:30–4:30.
FAMILY | Marine Mammal Center.
If you’re curious about the rehabilitation of sea mammals from the Pacific—and the human practices that endanger them—stop by this facility for rescued seals, sea lions, dolphins, and otters. An observation area overlooks the pools where the animals convalesce, and nearby plaques describe what you’re seeing. TIP You’ll learn even more—and get closer to the animals—on a worthwhile, docent-led tour. | Fort Cronkhite,2000 Bunker Rd., off U.S. 101’s Alexander Ave. exit | Sausalito | 415/289–7325 | www.marinemammalcenter.org | Center free, tour $9 | Daily 10–5.
Fodor’s Choice | Nike Missile Site SF-88-L.
The only accessible site of its kind in the United States provides a firsthand view of menacing cold war–era Hercules missiles and missile-tracking radar, the country’s “last line of defense” against Soviet nuclear bombers. It’s worth timing your visit to take the guided tour, whose highlight is a visit to the missile-launching bunker. TIP On the first Saturday of the month the site holds an open house at which some of the docents leading walking tours are Nike veterans who describe their experiences. | Field Rd., off Bunker Hill Rd. | 415/331–1453 | www.nps.gov/goga/nike-missile-site.htm | Free | Thurs.–Sat. 12:30–3:30; guided tour at 12:45, 1:45, and 2:30 | Site sometimes closes during inclement weather.
FAMILY | Point Bonita Lighthouse.
A restored beauty that still guides ships to safety with its original 1855 refractory lens, the lighthouse anchors the southern headlands. Half the fun of a visit is the steep ½-mile walk from the parking area through a rock tunnel, across a suspension bridge, and down to the lighthouse. Signposts along the way detail the bravado of surfmen, as the early lifeguards were called, and the tenacity of the “wickies,” the first keepers of the light. | End of Conzelman Rd. | www.nps.gov/goga/pobo.htm | Free | Sat.–Mon. 12:30–3:30.
Worth Noting
Hawk Hill.
Craggy Hawk Hill is the best place on the West Coast to watch the migration of eagles, hawks, and falcons as they fly south for winter: as many as 1,000 birds have been sighted in a single day. The main migration period is from September through November, and the viewing area is about 2 miles up Conzelman Road from U.S. 101; look for a Hawk Hill sign and parking right before the road becomes one way. In September and October, on rain- and fog-free weekends at noon, enthusiastic docents from the Golden Gate Raptor Observatory give free lectures on Hawk Hill, and a raptor-banding demonstration follows at 1 pm. | Conzelman Rd. | Sausalito | www.ggro.org.
Headlands Center for the Arts.
The center’s main building, formerly the army barracks, exhibits contemporary art in a rustic natural setting; the downstairs “archive room” contains objects found and created by residents, such as natural rocks, interesting glass bottles filled with collected items, and unusual masks. Stop by the industrial gallery space, two flights up, to see what the resident visual artists are up to—most of the work is quite contemporary. | Fort Barry,944 Simmonds Rd. | Sausalito | 415/331–2787 | www.headlands.org | Sun.–Thurs. noon–5.
Sausalito
2 miles north of Golden Gate Bridge.
Bougainvillea-covered hillsides and an expansive yacht harbor give Sausalito the feel of an Adriatic resort. The town sits on the northwestern edge of San Francisco Bay, where it’s sheltered from the ocean by the Marin Headlands; the mostly mild weather here is perfect for strolling and outdoor dining. Nevertheless, morning fog and afternoon winds can roll over the hills without warning, funneling through the central part of Sausalito once known as Hurricane Gulch.
South on Bridgeway (toward San Francisco), which snakes between the bay and the hills, a waterside esplanade is lined with restaurants on piers that lure diners with good seafood and even better views. Stairs along the west side of Bridgeway climb the hill to wooded neighborhoods filled with both rustic and opulent homes. As you amble along Bridgeway past shops and galleries, you’ll notice the absence of basic services. If you need an aspirin or some groceries (or if you want to see the locals), you’ll have to head to Caledonia Street, which runs parallel to Bridgeway, north of the ferry terminus and inland a couple of blocks. The streets closest to the ferry landing flaunt their fair share of shops selling T-shirts and kitschy souvenirs. Venture into some of the side streets or narrow alleyways to catch a bit more of the town’s taste for eccentric jewelry and handmade crafts.
TIP The ferry is the best way to get to Sausalito from San Francisco; you get more romance (and less traffic) and disembark in the heart of downtown.
Sausalito had a raffish reputation before it went upscale. Discovered in 1775 by Spanish explorers and named Sausalito (Little Willow) for the trees growing around its springs, the town served as a port for whaling ships during the 19th century. By the mid-1800s wealthy San Franciscans were making Sausalito their getaway across the bay. They built lavish Victorian summer homes in the hills, many of which still stand. In 1875 the railroad from the north connected with ferryboats to San Francisco, bringing the merchant and working classes with it. This influx of hardworking, fun-loving folk polarized the town into “wharf rats” and “hill snobs,” and the waterfront area grew thick with saloons, gambling dens, and bordellos. Bootleggers flourished during Prohibition, and shipyard workers swelled the town’s population in the 1940s.
Sausalito developed its bohemian flair in the 1950s and ’60s, when creative types, led by a charismatic Greek portraitist named Varda, established an artists’ colony and a houseboat community here (this is Otis Redding’s “Dock of the Bay”). Today more than 450 houseboats are docked in Sausalito, which has since also become a major yachting center. Some of these floating homes are ragged, others deluxe, but all are quirky (one, a miniature replica of a Persian castle, even has an elevator inside). For a close-up view of the community, head north on Bridgeway—Sausalito’s main thoroughfare—from downtown, turn right on Gate Six Road, park where it dead-ends at the public shore, and enter through the unlocked gates. Keep a respectful distance; these are homes, after all, and the residents become a bit prickly from too much ogling.
Getting Here and Around
From San Francisco by car or bike, follow U.S. 101 north across the Golden Gate Bridge and take the first exit, Alexander Avenue, just past Vista Point; continue down the winding hill to the water to where the road becomes Bridgeway. Golden Gate Transit buses 10 and 2 will drop you off in downtown Sausalito, and the ferries dock downtown as well. The center of town is flat, with plenty of sidewalks and bay views. It’s a pleasure and a must to explore on foot.
Essentials
Visitor Information
Sausalito Chamber of Commerce. | 780 Bridgeway, | Sausalito | 415/332–0505 | www.sausalito.org.
Exploring
FAMILY | Bay Area Discovery Museum.
Sitting at the base of the Golden Gate Bridge, this indoor-outdoor museum offers entertaining and enlightening hands-on exhibits for children under eight. Kids can fish from a boat at the indoor wharf, imagine themselves as marine biologists in the Wave Workshop, and play outdoors at Lookout Cove (made up of scaled-down sea caves, tidal pools, and even a re-created shipwreck). At Tot Spot, toddlers and preschoolers dress up in animal costumes and crawl through miniature tunnels. TIP From San Francisco, take U.S. 101’s Alexander Avenue exit and follow signs to East Fort Baker. | 557 McReynolds Rd., at East Rd. off Alexander Ave. | Sausalito | 415/339–3900 | www.baykidsmuseum.org | $12, free 1st Wed. of month | Tues.–Sun. 9–5.
FAMILY | Bay Model.
An anonymous-looking World War II shipyard building holds a great treasure: a sprawling (more than 1½ acres), walkable model of the entire San Francisco Bay and the San Joaquin–Sacramento River delta, complete with flowing water. The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers uses the model to reproduce the rise and fall of tides, the flow of currents, and the other physical forces at work on the bay. | 2100 Bridgeway, at Marinship Way | Sausalito | 415/332–3870 recorded information, 415/332–3871 operator assistance | www.spn.usace.army.mil | Free | Late May–early Sept., Tues.–Fri. 9–4, weekends 10–5; early Sept.–late May, Tues.–Sat. 9–4.
Drinking Fountain.
On the waterfront between the Hotel Sausalito and the Sausalito Yacht Club is an unusual historic landmark—a drinking fountain. It’s inscribed with “Have a drink on Sally” in remembrance of Sally Stanford, the former San Francisco madam who became the town’s mayor in the 1970s. Sassy Sally, as they called her, would have appreciated the fountain’s eccentric custom attachment: a knee-level basin that reads “Have a drink on Leland,” in memory of her beloved dog. | Sausalito.
Quick Bites: Hamburgers.
Patrons queue up daily for a sandwich made from the hand-formed beef patties sizzling on the wheel-shaped grill here. Brave the line (it moves fast), get your food to go, and head to the esplanade to enjoy the sweeping views. | 737 Bridgeway, at Humboldt Ave. | Sausalito | 415/332–9471 | No dinner.
Plaza Viña del Mar.
The landmark Plaza Viña del Mar, named for Sausalito’s sister city in Chile, marks the center of town. Flanked by two 14-foot-tall elephant statues (created in 1915 for the Panama-Pacific International Exposition), its fountain is a great setting for snapshots and people-watching. | Bridgeway and Park St. | Sausalito.
Sausalito Visitors Center and Historical Exhibit.
The local historical society operates the center, where you can get your bearings, learn some history, and find out what’s happening in town. | 780 Bridgeway, at Bay St. | Sausalito | 415/332–0505 | www.sausalitohistoricalsociety.com | Tues.–Sun. 11:30–4.
Where to Eat
Avatar’s.
$ | INTERNATIONAL | “Purveyors of ethnic confusions,” this Marin minichain offers Indian fusion combinations such as Punjabi burritos and pumpkin enchiladas that locals revere. The outgoing chef makes a big impression; tell him your preferences, sensitivities, and whims, and he’ll create something spectacular and promise you’ll want to lick the plate. The creativity of the food and the low prices more than make up for the uninspired space. | Average main: $13 | 2656 Bridgeway, at Coloma St. | Sausalito | 415/332–8083 | www.enjoyavatars.com | Closed Sun.
Bar Bocce.
$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Few Bay Area eateries can boast of having a beach adjoining the outdoor dining area, and when you play a game of boccie here, it’s framed by Richardson Bay. Modern Californian cuisine is served, including pizzas, salads, and signature dishes such as meatball sliders. Reservations aren’t taken, so be prepared to wait for a table—time you can spend sipping local beer and wine by the outdoor fire pit. | Average main: $18 | 1250 Bridgeway, between Pine and Turney Sts. | Sausalito | 415/331–0555 | barbocce.com | Reservations not accepted.
Bridgeway Cafe.
$ | CAFÉ | The view’s the thing at this diner-café on the main drag across the road from the bay. People line up on weekends for great breakfasts of pancakes and eggs and lunches of hot and cold sandwiches. Take in a view of the water while enjoying a morning croissant, well-crafted BLT, or the excellent fries. The Mediterranean dishes are also a hit—try the mixed appetizer platter or a hearty Greek salad. The café serves continuously until 5 pm. | Average main: $13 | 633 Bridgeway, at Princess St. | Sausalito | 415/332–3426 | Reservations not accepted | No dinner.
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Fish.
$$ | SEAFOOD | When locals want fresh seafood, they head to this gleaming dockside fish house a mile north of downtown. Order at the counter—cash only—and then grab a seat by the floor-to-ceiling windows or at a picnic table on the pier, overlooking the yachts and fishing boats. Most of the sustainably caught fish is hauled in from the owner’s boats, docked right outside. Try the ceviche, crab Louis, cioppino, barbecue oysters, or anything fresh that’s being grilled over the oak-wood fire. Outside, kids can doodle with sidewalk chalk on the pier. | Average main: $20 | 350 Harbor Dr., off Bridgeway | Sausalito | 415/331–3474 | www.331fish.com | Reservations not accepted | No credit cards.
Le Garage.
$$$ | FRENCH | Brittany-born Olivier Souvestre serves traditional French bistro fare in a relaxed, sidewalk café–style bayside setting. The menu is small, but the dishes are substantial in flavor and presentation. Standouts include frisée salad with poached egg, bacon, croutons, and pancetta vinaigrette; steak frites with a shallot confit and crispy fries; and a chef’s selection of cheese or charcuterie with soup and mixed greens. The restaurant only seats 35 inside and 15 outside, so to avoid a long wait for lunch, arrive before 11:30 or after 1:30. | Average main: $23 | 85 Liberty Ship Way, off Marinship Way | Sausalito | 415/332–5625 | www.legaragebistrosausalito.com | Reservations essential | No dinner Sun.
Lighthouse Cafe.
$ | SCANDINAVIAN | A cozy spot with a long coffee bar and dose of Scandinavian flair, this local establishment has been a favorite breakfast (served all day) and brunch destination for decades. The hearty Norwegian salmon omelet with spinach and cream cheese always hits the spot, as do the fruit pancakes and, for lunch, grilled burgers, sandwiches, and Danish specials such as meatballs with potato salad. Expect a wait. | Average main: $12 | 1311 Bridgeway, near Turney St. | Sausalito | 415/331–3034 | www.lighthouse-restaurants.com | Reservations not accepted | No dinner.
Poggio.
$$$ | ITALIAN | One of Sausalito’s few restaurants to attract food-savvy locals and tourists, Poggio serves modern Tuscan-style cuisine in a handsome, open-wall space that spills onto the street. Expect dishes such as grilled chicken with roasted beets and sunchokes, braised artichokes with polenta, featherlight gnocchi, and pizzas from the open kitchen’s wood-fired oven. Daily breakfast includes fresh-made pastries, house-made granola, and panini such as ham and eggs or prosciutto and provolone. | Average main: $23 | 777 Bridgeway, at Bay St. | Sausalito | 415/332–7771 | www.poggiotrattoria.com | Reservations essential.
Fodor’s Choice | Sushi Ran.
$$$ | JAPANESE | Sushi aficionados swear that this stylish restaurant—in business for three decades—is the Bay Area’s best option for raw fish, but don’t overlook the excellent Pacific Rim fusions, a melding of Japanese ingredients and French cooking techniques, served up in unusual presentations. Because Sushi Ran is so highly ranked among area foodies, book from two to seven days in advance for dinner. Otherwise, expect a long wait, which you can soften by sipping one of the 45 by-the-glass sakes from the outstanding wine-and-sake bar. TIP If you arrive without a reservation and can’t get a table, you can sometimes dine in the noisy bar. | Average main: $25 | 107 Caledonia St., at Pine St. | Sausalito | 415/332–3620 | www.sushiran.com | Reservations essential | No lunch weekends.
Where to Stay
Casa Madrona.
$$$$ | HOTEL | What began as a small inn in a 19th-century landmark mansion has expanded over the decades to include a contemporary section and hillside cottages, along with a full-service spa, all tiered down a hill in the center of Sausalito. The contemporary section contains newer rooms with wet bars, sunken tubs, and bay windows; some have balconies overlooking Richardson Bay. The hillside cottages are made for indulgence. Bay-view rooms are pricey, but the vistas are spectacular. In the newly restored Mansion, the ultraluxurious 5,000-square-foot Alexandrite Suite can be yours for $10,000 per night. Pros: elegant furniture; spacious rooms; central location. Cons: stairs required to access some cottages; breakfast is not included. | Rooms from: $300 | 801 Bridgeway | Sausalito | 415/332–0502, 800/567–9524 | www.casamadrona.com | 56 rooms, 1 suite, 7 cottages | No meals.
Cavallo Point.
$$$$ | HOTEL | Set in the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, this luxury hotel and resort with a one-of-a-kind location on a former army post contains well-appointed eco-friendly rooms. Most of them overlook a massive lawn with stunning views of the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco Bay. Murray Circle, the on-site restaurant, uses top-notch California ingredients and has an impressive wine cellar, and the neighboring casual bar offers food and drink on a large porch. Pros: stunning views; activities include a cooking classes, yoga classes, and nature walks; spa with a tea bar; art gallery; accommodating staff. Cons: isolated from urban amenities. | Rooms from: $429 | 601 Murray Circle, Fort Baker | Sausalito | 415/339–4700 | www.cavallopoint.com | 68 historic and 74 contemporary guest rooms | No meals.
Hotel Sausalito.
$$ | B&B/INN | Handmade furniture and tasteful original art and reproductions give this well-run inn the feel of a small European hotel. The Mediterranean-like glow comes from the soft yellow, green, and orange tones bathing the rooms, some of which have harbor or park views. Space ranges from small quarters for budget-minded travelers to commodious suites. Best of all, the hotel is right downtown, next to the ferry landing. Pros: great staff; central location; solid midrange hotel. Cons: no room service; some rooms feel cramped. | Rooms from: $180 | 16 El Portal | Sausalito | 415/332–0700, 888/442–0700 | www.hotelsausalito.com | 14 rooms, 2 suites | No meals.
The Inn Above Tide.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | This is the only hotel in the Bay Area with balconies literally hanging over the water, and each of its rooms has a perfect-10 view that takes in wild Angel Island as well as the city lights across the bay. In the corner Vista Suite (one of the most expensive rooms here, at triple the standard-room rate), you can even watch San Francisco twinkle from the king-size bed. Lovely touches—gardenias by the sink, large tubs, binoculars in every room, complimentary California wine and imported cheese—abound, and most rooms have wood-burning or gas fireplaces. Though set in the middle of town, this place is tranquil. Pros: great complimentary breakfast; minutes from restaurants and attractions; central but tranquil setting. Cons: costly parking; some rooms are on the small side. | Rooms from: $370 | 30 El Portal | Sausalito | 415/332–9535, 800/893–8433 | www.innabovetide.com | 26 rooms, 5 suites | Breakfast.
Performing Arts
Sausalito Art Festival.
This annual juried fine-arts show, held over Labor Day weekend, attracts more than 30,000 people to the Sausalito waterfront; Blue & Gold Fleet ferries from San Francisco dock at the pier adjacent to the festival. | Sausalito | 415/332–3555 | www.sausalitoartfestival.org | $25.
Sports and the Outdoors
Kayaking
Sea Trek Ocean Kayaking and SUP Center.
The center (SUP stands for stand-up paddleboarding) offers guided half-day sea-kayaking trips underneath the Golden Gate Bridge and full- and half-day trips to Angel Island, both for beginners. Trips for experienced kayakers, classes, and rentals are also available. TIP Starlight and full-moon paddles are particularly popular. | Bay Model parking lot, off Bridgeway and Marinship Way | Sausalito | 415/332–8494 | www.seatrek.com | From $20 per hr for rentals, $65 for 3-hr guided trip.
Sailing
SF Bay Adventures.
This outfit’s expert skippers conduct sunset and full-moon sails around the bay, as well as fascinating eco- and whale-watching tours with the possibility of viewing great white sharks. If you’re interested, the company can arrange for you to barbecue on Angel Island or even spend the night in a lighthouse. | 60 Liberty Ship Way, Suite 4 | Sausalito | 415/331–0444 | www.sfbayadventures.com.
Shopping
FAMILY | Sausalito Ferry Co.
Eccentric and fun, this shop is a great place to buy trendy T-shirts, wallets, and clocks—not to mention solar-powered bobbleheads, outrageous cocktail napkins, and one-of-a-kind key chains. | 688 Bridgeway, near Princess St. | Sausalito | 415/332–9590 | www.sausalitoferry.com.
Something/Anything Gallery.
Where Bridgeway ends and curves toward the dock, this gallery with a friendly staff carries jewelry and gifts, from unique watches to humorous pendants. TIP This a good spot to pick up your Sausalito memento. | 20 Princess St., at Broadway | Sausalito | 415/339–8831 | www.somethinganythinggallery.com.
Tiburon
2 miles north of Sausalito, 7 miles north of Golden Gate Bridge.
On a peninsula that was called Punta de Tiburon (Shark Point) by the Spanish explorers, this beautiful Marin County community retains the feel of a village—it’s more low-key than Sausalito—despite the encroachment of commercial establishments from the downtown area. The harbor faces Angel Island across Raccoon Strait, and San Francisco is directly south across the bay—which makes the views from the decks of harbor restaurants a major attraction. Since its incarnation, in 1884, when ferries from San Francisco connected the point with a railroad to San Rafael, the town has centered on the waterfront. TIP The ferry is the most relaxing (and fastest) way to get here, particularly in summer, allowing you to skip traffic and parking problems. If visiting midweek, keep in mind that many shops close either Tuesday or Wednesday, or both.
Getting Here and Around
Blue & Gold Fleet ferries travel between San Francisco and Tiburon daily. By car, head north from San Francisco on U.S. 101 and get off at CA 131/Tiburon Boulevard/East Blithedale Avenue (Exit 447). Turn right onto Tiburon Boulevard and drive just over 4 miles to downtown. Golden Gate Transit serves downtown Tiburon from San Francisco; except during evening rush hour you’ll need to transfer in Mill Valley, making the bus an inconvenient option. Tiburon’s Main Street is made for wandering, as are the footpaths that frame the water’s edge.
Essentials
Visitor Information
Tiburon. | Town Hall,1505 Tiburon Blvd., | Tiburon | 415/435–7373 | www.townoftiburon.org.
Exploring
Ark Row.
Past the pink-brick bank building, Main Street is known as Ark Row and has a tree-shaded walk lined with antiques and specialty stores. Some of the buildings are actually old houseboats that floated in Belvedere Cove before being beached and transformed into stores. TIP If you’re curious about architectural history, the Tiburon Heritage & Arts Commission has a self-guided walking-tour map, available online and at local businesses. | Ark Row, parallel to Main St. | Tiburon | tiburonheritageandarts.org.
Main Street.
Tiburon’s narrow Main Street is on the bay side; you can browse the shops and galleries or relax on a restaurant’s deck jutting out over the harbor. | Tiburon.
Old St. Hilary’s Landmark and Wildflower Preserve.
The architectural centerpiece of this attraction is a stark-white 1886 Carpenter Gothic church that overlooks the town and the bay from its hillside perch. Surrounding the church, which was barged over from Strawberry Point in 1957, is a wildflower preserve that’s spectacular in May and June, when the rare black or Tiburon jewelflower blooms. Expect a steep walk uphill to reach the preserve. TIP The hiking trails behind the landmark wind up to a peak that has views of the entire Bay Area (great photo op). | 201 Esperanza St., off Mar West St. or Beach Rd. | Tiburon | 415/435–1853 | landmarkssociety.com | Preserve free, $3 church tour | Preserve daily dawn–dusk; church Apr.–Oct., Sun. 1–4.
Where to Eat
The Caprice.
$$$$ | AMERICAN | For more than 50 years this Tiburon landmark that overlooks the bay has been the place to come to mark special occasions. The views are spectacular, and soft-yellow walls and starched white tablecloths help to make the space bright and light. Elegant comfort food is the specialty, with choices like seared day-boat scallops or pan-roasted filet mignon. Polishing off the warm chocolate cake with almond ice cream while gazing out at the sunset and porpoises bobbing in the waves below is a near perfect end to the evening. | Average main: $31 | 2000 Paradise Dr. | Tiburon | 415/435–3400 | www.thecaprice.com | No lunch.
Guaymas.
$$ | MODERN MEXICAN | This festive restaurant, steps from the ferry landing, has an expansive deck with a knockout view of the bay. The large open kitchen churns out fairly authentic Mexican dishes such as ceviche, carnitas uruapan (slow-roasted pork with salsa and black beans), mesquite-grilled fish, and tamales, though some complain the service isn’t what it could be. TIP Taking the ferry here for brunch (make a reservation) is a splendid way to spend a sunny Sunday. | Average main: $17 | 5 Main St., at Tiburon Blvd. | Tiburon | 415/435–6300 | www.guaymasrestaurant.com.
Luna Blu.
$$ | SICILIAN | This lively sliver of an Italian restaurant focusing on seafood has made a splash on the Tiburon dining scene, with locals raving about the food, the service, and the views. It’s hard to beat a seat on the heated patio overlooking the bay, but the high-sided booths inside are appealing as well. Chef Renzo Azzarello’s Sicilian childhood and training show in dishes such as spaghetti with sea urchin, sausage- and bell pepper-stuffed ravioli with porcini sauce, and braised veal shank; the towering burger served at lunch is a winner. Service is friendly, efficient, and informed. | Average main: $21 | 35 Main St. | Tiburon | 415/789–5844 | Closed Tues.
FAMILY | New Morning Cafe.
$ | AMERICAN | Omelets and scrambles are served all day long at this homey café. If you’re past morning treats, choose from the many soups, salads, and sandwiches. The café is open from 6:30 until 2:30 on weekdays, until 4 on weekends. | Average main: $13 | 1696 Tiburon Blvd., near Main St. | Tiburon | 415/435–4315 | No dinner.
Sam’s Anchor Cafe.
$$$ | AMERICAN | Open since 1921, this casual dockside restaurant with mahogany wainscoting is the town’s most famous eatery. Most people flock to the deck here for beer, bay views, and seafood. The lunch menu has the usual suspects—burgers, sandwiches, salads, fried fish with tartar sauce—and you’ll sit on plastic chairs at tables covered with blue-and-white-checked oilcloths. At night you can find standard seafood dishes with vegetarian and meat options. Mind the seagulls; they know no restraint. TIP Expect a wait for outside tables on sunny summer days or weekends; reservations aren’t taken for deck seating or weekend lunch. | Average main: $23 | 27 Main St. | Tiburon | 415/435–4527 | www.samscafe.com.
FAMILY | Waypoint Pizza.
$ | PIZZA | A nautical decor theme and a tasty “between the sheets” pizza-style sandwich are signatures of this creative pizzeria that also serves slices and whole gourmet pies. Booths are brightened with blue-checked tablecloths, and a playful air is added by indoor deck chairs, a picnic table complete with umbrella, and lighthouse salt-and-pepper shakers. Service can be a bit casual. | Average main: $14 | 15 Main St. | Tiburon | 415/435–3440 | www.waypointpizza.com | Closed Tues.
Where to Stay
The Lodge at Tiburon.
$$$$ | HOTEL | A block from Main Street and framed by stone pillars and sloped rooftops, the Lodge at Tiburon has the feel of a winter ski chalet, though the outdoor pool and its cabanas provide a summery counterpoint. Despite the incongruity, the feeling here is one of comfort. The white linens and gentle green walls reflect the natural light that fills the guest rooms. Most rooms and suites have private balconies or decks. Pros: free parking; spacious work desks in each room; room service from the Tiburon Tavern. Cons: breakfast not included; some rooms have a few too many mirrors; no bay views. | Rooms from: $299 | 1651 Tiburon Blvd., at Beach St. | Tiburon | 415/435–3133 | lodgeattiburon.com | 101 rooms, 2 suites | No meals.
Waters Edge Hotel.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | Checking into this elegant hotel feels like tucking away into an inviting retreat by the water—the views are stunning and the lighting is perfect. All rooms have a gas fireplace, and second-floor rooms, which you should insist on, have balconies with bay views at this stylish small hotel in downtown Tiburon. Furnishings are chic and modern in cocoa and cream colors; down comforters and high-thread-count linens make the beds deliciously comfortable. High-vaulted ceilings show off the carefully placed, Asian-influenced objects, which line the hallways and front living room area. In the morning, breakfast is delivered to your door, but take your coffee outside to the giant communal sundeck over the water; the south-facing views of San Francisco Bay are incredible. Pros: complimentary wine and cheese for guests every evening; restaurants/sights are minutes away; free bike rentals for guests. Cons: downstairs rooms lack privacy and views; except for breakfast delivery, no room service; fitness center is off-site; not a great place to bring small children. | Rooms from: $279 | 25 Main St., off Tiburon Blvd. | Tiburon | 415/789–5999, 877/789–5999 | www.marinhotels.com | 23 rooms | Breakfast.
Shopping
FAMILY | The Candy Store on Main Street.
This store is every child’s (and many adults’) dream come true, with rows of fresh homemade fudge, barrels of rainbow-colored jelly beans, and neat boxes of truffles with pin-striped ribbons. A train in the window drives figure eights through chocolate mountains and around M&M houses. | 7 Main St., at Tiburon Blvd. | Tiburon | 415/435–0434 | www.candystoretiburon.com.
Schoenberg Guitars.
Small, narrow, and chockablock with handmade guitars, this shop is a treat even for those who don’t play music. Dozens, if not hundreds, of guitars varying in size, shape, and color hang from the walls and stand against the polished wood floor. There is an organized beauty to the layout of this place and a comforting sense of musical harmony. | 106 Main St. | Tiburon | 415/789–0846 | www.om28.com | Closed Mon.
Mill Valley
2 miles north of Sausalito, 4 miles north of Golden Gate Bridge.
Chic and woodsy Mill Valley has a dual personality. Here, as elsewhere in the county, the foundation is a superb natural setting. Virtually surrounded by parkland, the town lies at the base of Mt. Tamalpais and contains dense redwood groves traversed by countless creeks. But this is no lumber camp. Smart restaurants and chichi boutiques line the streets, and more rock stars than one might suspect live here.
The rustic village flavor isn’t a modern conceit but a holdover from the town’s early days as a logging camp. In 1896 the Mill Valley and Mt. Tamalpais Scenic Railroad—called “the crookedest railroad in the world” because of its curvy tracks—began transporting visitors from Mill Valley to the top of Mt. Tam and down to Muir Woods, and the town soon became a vacation retreat for city slickers. The trains stopped running in the 1940s, but the old railway depot still serves as the center of town: the 1924 building has been transformed into the popular Depot Bookstore & Cafe, at 87 Throckmorton Avenue.
The small downtown area has the constant bustle of a leisure community; even at noon on a Tuesday, people are out shopping for fancy cookware and lacy pajamas.
Getting Here and Around
By car from San Francisco, head north on U.S. 101 and get off at CA 131/Tiburon Boulevard/East Blithedale Avenue (Exit 447). Turn left onto East Blithedale and continue west to Throckmorton Avenue; turn left to reach Lytton Square, then park. Golden Gate Transit buses serve Mill Valley from San Francisco. Once here, explore the town on foot; it’s great for strolling.
Essentials
Visitor Information
Mill Valley Chamber of Commerce. | 85 Throckmorton Ave., | Mill Valley | 415/388–9700 | www.enjoymillvalley.com.
Exploring
FAMILY | Lytton Square.
Mill Valley locals congregate on weekends to socialize in the many coffeehouses near the town’s central square (which is unmarked), but it bustles most any time of day. Shops, restaurants, and cultural venues line the nearby streets. | Miller and Throckmorton Aves. | Mill Valley.
Off the Beaten Path: Marin County Civic Center.
A wonder of arches, circles, and skylights about 8 miles north of Mill Valley, the civic center was Frank Lloyd Wright’s last major architectural undertaking. Docent-led tours ($5) leave from the gift shop, on the second floor, on Wednesday morning at 10:30. The center’s website has self-guided tour map that’s also available at the gift shop. TIP Photographs on the first floor depict Marin County homes Wright designed. | 3501 Civic Center Dr., off N. San Pedro Rd. | San Rafael | 415/473–3762 for docent tour | www.marincounty.org/depts/cu/visitor-services | Free | Weekdays 8–5.
FAMILY | Old Mill Park.
To see one of the numerous outdoor oases that make Mill Valley so appealing, follow Throckmorton Avenue ¼ mile west from Lytton Square to Old Mill Park, a shady patch of redwoods that shelters a playground and reconstructed sawmill and hosts September’s Mill Valley Arts Festival. From the park, Cascade Way winds its way past creek-side homes to the trailheads of several forest paths. | Throckmorton Ave. and Cascade Dr. | Mill Valley.
Where to Eat
Balboa Café.
$$$ | AMERICAN | With intimate lighting, rich wood accents, and fresh-pressed white linens, this café offers an upscale dining experience. The bar is so busy that you’ll be lucky if your elbow gets anywhere near it. Although the cocktails aren’t as stiff as their price tags, the food is creative, local, and beautifully presented. Try the Duroc pork chop or caramelized filet of salmon, and try to save room for the s’mores bread pudding. The extensive wine list includes a few wines from Marin County. | Average main: $23 | 38 Miller Ave., at Sunnyside Ave. | Mill Valley | 415/381–7321 | www.balboacafe.com/mill-valley | Reservations essential | No lunch Mon.
Buckeye Roadhouse.
$$$ | AMERICAN | This is Mill Valley’s secret den of decadence, where house-smoked meats and fish, grilled steaks, and old-fashioned dishes such as brisket bring the locals coming back for more. The restaurant also serves beautiful organic salads and desserts so heavenly—like the s’more pie—you’ll just about melt into the floor. The look of the 1937 roadhouse is decidedly hunting-lodge chic, with a river-rock fireplace, topped by a trophy fish, dominating one wall. The busy but cozy bar with elegant mahogany paneling and soft lighting is a good place to quench your thirst for a Marin martini or Napa Valley Merlot. | Average main: $24 | 15 Shoreline Hwy., off U.S. 101 | Mill Valley | 415/331–2600 | buckeyeroadhouse.com | Reservations essential.
Bungalow 44.
$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Banana plants and tropical lighting set the mood at this glowing space that serves Californian comfort food and glistening cocktails (the restaurant is as popular for its bar as it is for its food). The dance of flames is everywhere—in the crackling dining-room fireplace, and the kitchen’s wood oven. House specialties include pan-seared diver scallops, fried chicken with local-honey coleslaw, and steak frites. In nice weather, you can eat outdoors. | Average main: $23 | 44 E. Blithedale Ave., at Sunnyside Ave. | Mill Valley | 415/381–2500 | www.bungalow44.com | No lunch.
FAMILY | The Dipsea Cafe.
$ | AMERICAN | There is no better place for breakfast than the Dipsea, which is named after the gorgeous trail that stretches from Mill Valley to Stinson Beach. Locals crowd its cozy interior most mornings, but weekends are especially popular. Choose from huge plates of French toast, eggs Benedict, and huevos rancheros; the homemade fries and jam that accompany the breakfast entrées are to die for. The hearty lunches served here include sautéed calamari and enormous BLTs. This is a good spot to fuel up on your way to or from Muir Woods and Stinson Beach. | Average main: $14 | 200 Shoreline Hwy., west of Tennessee Valley Rd. | Mill Valley | 415/381–0298 | www.dipseacafe.com | No dinner.
El Paseo House of Chops.
$$$$ | CONTEMPORARY | Chef Tyler Florence and rocker Sammy Hagar teamed up to restore El Paseo, which was established in 1947 and remains a fine place for a romantic and culinary night out. You’ll feel as if you’re on one of Spain’s tiny cobbled lanes as you enter the secluded brick walkway that wraps around a candlelit dining room. If you reserve well in advance you can sit in the bougainvillea-framed courtyard, but the dining room casts its own atmospheric charms, with soft leather chairs, white tablecloths, and dark wooden walls. And then there’s Tyler Florence’s famous seasonal Californian cuisine. Favorites include pan-roasted duck breast and the traditional steak frites. Don’t overlook the decadent desserts. Service tends toward inattentive and can be slow. | Average main: $32 | 17 Throckmorton Ave., at E. Blithedale Ave. | Mill Valley | 415/388–0741 | www.elpaseomillvalley.com | Reservations essential | No lunch.
FAMILY | Joe’s Taco Lounge.
$ | MEXICAN | A funky, bright lounge (and it really does feel like someone’s lounge), this is a fun place to go for a casual, cheap, and delicious Mexican meal. There are all sorts of colorful relics on the walls, and chili-pepper lights adorn the windows. The signature dishes are fish tacos and snapper burritos—which are generous in both size and flavor. The organic burger with spicy “firecracker” fries and the fire-grilled corn on the cob are also yummy. Choose from a wide selection of Mexican beers, or go for a refreshing agave wine margarita. Between 5 and 7 pm, Joe’s is popular with families. | Average main: $11 | 382 Miller Ave., and Montford Ave. | Mill Valley | 415/383–8164 | www.joestacolounge.com.
FAMILY | La Ginestra.
$$ | ITALIAN | In business since 1964, La Ginestra is a Mill Valley institution renowned for its no-pretense, family-style Italian meals—the greatest hits include thin-crusted pizzas, homemade pastas, breaded veal, and chicken with artichokes—and impressive wine list. An adorable little bar sits off to the side of the dining room, just right for a martini or two and a plate of antipasto. | Average main: $18 | 127 Throckmorton Ave., at Miller Ave. | Mill Valley | 415/388–0224 | www.laginestramv.com | No lunch. Closed Mon.
Molina.
$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | A suave yet homey design, a convivial vibe buoyed by an all-vinyl soundtrack, and vibrant, impeccable cuisine have turned this snug neighborhood spot into something approaching a destination restaurant. Owner-chef (and DJ) Todd Shoberg aims to please and usually succeeds, most especially with the food, a dozen small plates and five or so entrées that showcase local meat and produce. Smaller dishes have included heirloom broccoli with kumquats and farro, and game hen and king salmon from Bodega Bay have appeared as mains. Molina is on the small side and can get noisy when packed. Sunday brunch is also served. | Average main: $26 | 17 Madrona St., near Throckmorton Ave. | Mill Valley | 415/383–4200 | molinarestaurant.com | No lunch.
FAMILY | Pearl’s Phat Burgers.
$ | BURGER | Families, couples, and teenagers flock to Pearl’s for juicy, grass-fed organic burgers stacked high with tomatoes, lettuce, bacon, and cheese; sweet-potato fries that are not too crispy and not too soft; and thick, creamy milk shakes. The food here is among the freshest, biggest, and fastest in town. No wonder there’s always a line out the door. | Average main: $14 | 8 E. Blithedale Ave., at Sunnyside Ave. | Mill Valley | 415/381–6010.
Piazza D’Angelo.
$$ | ITALIAN | In the heart of downtown, busy D’Angelo’s is known for its osso buco and veal saltimbocca, as well as pastas and delicious crème brûlée; there even are gluten-free options. The food is authentic and fresh, but another draw is the scene, especially in the lounge area, which hosts a lively cocktail hour packed with beautiful people and serves food until 10 or 11 pm—late for Mill Valley. The sprawling space encompasses a bright front room, romantic booths, and a warm patio. | Average main: $17 | 22 Miller Ave., near Sunnyside Ave. | Mill Valley | 415/388–2000 | www.piazzadangelo.com.
Picco.
$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | If you’re in the mood for fantastically original food and feeling slyly glamorous, head to Larkspur’s flashy Picco. Dramatic lighting and modernist decor set the stage. The food shines, from a plate of miniburgers with caramelized onions and Point Reyes blue cheese to artfully presented roasted vegetables. If there’s a long wait, start with small dishes at the bar or try Pizzeria Picco next door. | Average main: $28 | 320 Magnolia Ave. | Larkspur | 415/924–0300 | www.restaurantpicco.com | Reservations essential | No lunch.
FAMILY | Tony Tutto Pizza.
$ | PIZZA | Possibly the best pies in Marin—all vegetarian and mostly organic—are to be had in this simple, pleasant eatery where the focus is all on the food. The owner spent decades in the music business, which you’ll see reflected in the menu. Try the Peter, Paul & Pesto, A Love Supreme (margherita), or Whiter Shade of Pale (three cheeses). Choose from the extensive beer list and good wine selection and grab an outdoor table under the heat lamps. Service is warm and welcoming. | Average main: $13 | 246 E. Blithedale Ave., near Sycamore Ave. | Mill Valley | 415/383–8646 | www.tonytuttopizza.com | No credit cards | Closed Mon. and Tues.
Where to Stay
Acqua Hotel.
$$$ | HOTEL | Astride Richardson Bay, this boutique hotel has modern, elegant rooms decorated in deep browns and cool greens. Rooms facing west have full bay views (some rooms even have views of Mt. Tamalpais) and private patios. The junior suites have soaking tubs and fireplaces. Pros: evening wine service; complimentary bikes; hearty breakfast. Cons: next to freeway; traffic audible in rooms facing east. | Rooms from: $219 | 555 Redwood Hwy., off U.S. 101 | Mill Valley | 415/388–9353 | www.marinhotels.com | 49 rooms | Breakfast.
Mill Valley Inn.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | The only hotel in downtown Mill Valley has smart-looking rooms done up in Tuscan colors of ocher and olive, with handcrafted beds, armoires, and lamps by local artisans. Beds are made with crisp white linens, starkly contrasting the deep browns and greens of the towering redwoods just outside the windows. A generous complimentary wine reception takes place every evening on the sun terrace. The cottages in the back of the hotel, tucked among the trees, are something special. Pros: minutes from local shops and restaurants; great complimentary continental breakfast; free parking; free mountain bikes. Cons: some rooms are noisy; dark in winter because of surrounding trees; some rooms are not accessible via elevator. | Rooms from: $279 | 165 Throckmorton Ave., near Miller Ave. | Mill Valley | 415/389–6608, 800/595–2100 | www.marinhotels.com | 22 rooms, 1 suite, 2 cottages | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice | Mountain Home Inn.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | Abutting 40,000 acres of state and national parks, the inn sits on the skirt of Mt. Tamalpais, where you can follow hiking trails all the way to Stinson Beach. The inn’s multilevel, airy wooden building has pristine wilderness on one side and an unparalleled view of the bay on the other. Rooms are built for romance, each mixing huge views with some combination of balcony, fireplace, and whirlpool tub. The on-site wine bar and restaurant serves an excellent lunch on the deck from May through October. Year-round you can dine inside by the fire; for dinner there’s a terrific $38 prix-fixe dinner of American regional cuisine. There’s a late-afternoon American cheese–tasting course, as well as an après-trek menu of small plates for hungry hikers. Pros: amazing deck and views; peaceful, remote setting. Cons: nearest town is a 20-minute drive away; restaurant can get crowded on sunny weekend days; some complain the hotel and service don’t live up to the views and price point. | Rooms from: $279 | 810 Panoramic Hwy., at Edgewood Ave. | Mill Valley | 415/381–9000 | www.mtnhomeinn.com | 10 rooms | Breakfast.
Nightlife and Performing Arts
Nightlife
Mill Valley Beerworks.
A great place to rest your feet after shopping or hiking, Beerworks serves more than 100 local, national, and international beers, from ale to port to lager. For food, you’ll find offerings such as a cheese plate, olives, grilled squid, and pappardelle. | 173 Throckmorton Ave., at Madrona St. | Mill Valley | 415/888–8218 | millvalleybeerworks.com.
FAMILY | Mill Valley Fall Arts Festival.
The festival takes place in mid-September in Old Mill Park, with live music, a kids’ stage, and artisans selling crafts, jewelry, and art. | Old Mill Park, Throckmorton Ave. and Cascade Dr. | Mill Valley | 415/381–8090 | www.mvfaf.org.
Mill Valley Film Festival.
The well-regarded festival, held annually in early October, shows everything from features and documentaries to experimental works. | Sequoia Theater,25 Throckmorton Ave., near W. Blithedale Ave. | Mill Valley | 415/383–5256 | www.mvff.com.
Performing Arts
142 Throckmorton Theatre.
This ultraquirky venue presents plays, musical acts, and comedy shows, along with visual and related arts. Top events include the DjangoFest Mill Valley, celebrating the gypsy-jazz artist Django Reinhardt; a film series hosted by local comedic legend Mort Sahl; and the annual Writers with Attitude festival of short-play readings. Stunning murals cover the theater’s ceiling, and the foyer has on old-fashioned popcorn maker. | 142 Throckmorton Ave., at Madrona St. | Mill Valley | 415/383–9600 tickets | www.142throckmortontheatre.com.
Sweetwater Music Hall.
With the help of part-owner Bob Weir of the Grateful Dead, this renowned club reopened in an old Masonic Hall in 2012. Famous as well as up-and-coming bands play on most nights, and local stars such as Bonnie Raitt and Huey Lewis have been known to stop in for a pickup session. | 19 Corte Madera Ave., between Throckmorton and Lovell Aves. | Mill Valley | 415/388–3850 | www.sweetwatermusichall.com.
Muir Woods National Monument
12 miles northwest of the Golden Gate Bridge.
Climbing hundreds of feet into the sky, Sequoia sempervirens are the tallest living things on Earth. One of the last remaining old-growth stands of these redwood behemoths, Muir Woods is nature’s cathedral: imposing, awe-inspiring, reverence-inducing, and not to be missed.
Getting Here and Around
Driving to Muir Woods, especially in summer and early fall, causes epic traffic jams around the tiny parking areas and miles-long walks to reach the entrance. Do yourself (and everyone else) a favor and take a shuttle instead, if you can. On weekends and holidays, Memorial Day through Labor Day, Marin Transit’s Route 66 shuttle ($5 round-trip | www.marintransit.org) is timed to meet boats at Sausalito’s ferry landing four times daily en route to Muir Woods. The shuttle also runs every half hour from the Manzanita Park-and-Ride three miles north of the ferry. To get there, take the Highway 1 exit off U.S. 101 (look for the lot under the elevated freeway), or take connecting bus service from San Francisco with Golden Gate Transit. To drive directly from San Francisco by car, take U.S. 101 north across the Golden Gate Bridge to the Mill Valley/Stinson Beach exit, then follow signs to Highway 1 north. Once here, you can wander by foot through this pristine patch of nature.
Exploring
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Muir Woods National Monument.
Walking among some of the last old-growth redwoods on the planet, trees hundreds of feet tall and a millennium or more old, is magical, an experience like few others to clearly illustrate our tiny place in a bigger world. Ancestors of redwood and sequoia trees grew throughout what is now the United States 150,000,000 years ago. Today the Sequoia sempervirens can be found only in a narrow, cool coastal belt from Monterey to Oregon. The 550 acres of Muir Woods National Monument contain some of the most majestic redwoods in the world—some more than 250 feet tall. (To see the real giants, though, you’ll have to head north to Humboldt County, where the tallest redwood, in Redwood National Park, has been measured at 380 feet.) The Marin stand was saved from destruction in 1905, when it was purchased by a couple who donated it to the federal government. Three years later it was named after naturalist John Muir, whose environmental campaigns helped to establish the national park system. His response: “Saving these woods from the ax and saw is in many ways the most notable service to God and man I have heard of since my forest wandering began.”
Muir Woods, part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, is a pedestrian’s park. Old paved trails have been replaced by wooden walkways, and the trails vary in difficulty and length. Beginning from the park headquarters, an easy 2-mile, wheelchair-accessible loop trail crosses streams and passes ferns and azaleas, as well as magnificent redwood groves. Among the most famous are Bohemian Grove and the circular formation called Cathedral Grove. On summer weekends visitors oohing and aahing in a dozen languages line the trail. If you prefer a little serenity, consider the challenging Dipsea Trail, which climbs west from the forest floor to soothing views of the ocean and the Golden Gate Bridge. For a complete list of trails, check with rangers, who can also help you pick the best one for your ability level.
TIP The weather in Muir Woods is usually cool and often wet—after all, these giants survive on fog drip—so wear warm clothes and shoes appropriate for damp trails. Picnicking and camping aren’t allowed, and pets aren’t permitted. Crowds can be large, especially from May through October, so try to come early in the morning or late in the afternoon. The Muir Woods Visitor Center has books and exhibits about redwood trees and the woods’ history; the café here serves locally sourced, organic food, and the gift shop has plenty of souvenirs. | 1 Muir Woods Trail, off Panoramic Hwy. | Mill Valley | 415/388–2595 park information, 415/526–3239 shuttle information | www.nps.gov/muwo | $7 | Daily 8 am–sunset.
Mt. Tamalpais State Park
16 miles northwest of Golden Gate Bridge.
The view of Mt. Tamalpais from all around the bay can be a beauty, but that’s nothing compared to the views from the mountain, which range from jaw-dropping to spectacular and take in San Francisco, the East Bay, the coast, and beyond—on a clear day, all the way to the Farallon Islands, 26 miles away.
Getting Here and Around
By car, take the Highway 1–Stinson Beach exit off U.S. 101 and follow the road west and then north. From San Francisco, the trip can take from 30 minutes up to an hour, depending on traffic. By bus, take Golden Gate Transit’s 10, 70 or 80 to Marin City; in Marin City transfer to the West Marin Stagecoach (415/226–0855 | www.marintransit.org/stage.html). Once here, the only way to explore is on foot or by bike.
Exploring
Mt. Tamalpais State Park.
Although the summit of Mt. Tamalpais is only 2,571 feet high, the mountain rises practically from sea level, dominating the topography of Marin County. Adjacent to Muir Woods National Monument, Mt. Tamalpais State Park affords views of the entire Bay Area and the Pacific Ocean to the west. The mountain was sacred to Native Americans, who saw in its profile—as you can see today—the silhouette of a sleeping Indian maiden. Locals fondly refer to it as the “Sleeping Lady.” For years the 6,300-acre park has been a favorite destination for hikers. There are more than 200 miles of trails, some rugged but many developed for easy walking through meadows, grasslands, and forests and along creeks. Mt. Tam, as it’s called by locals, is also the birthplace (in the 1970s) of mountain biking, and today many spandex-clad bikers whiz down the park’s winding roads.
The park’s major thoroughfare, Panoramic Highway, snakes its way up from U.S. 101 to the Pantoll Ranger Station. The office is staffed sporadically, depending on funding. From the ranger station, Panoramic Highway drops down to the town of Stinson Beach. Pantoll Road branches off the highway at the station, connecting up with Ridgecrest Boulevard. Along these roads are numerous parking areas, picnic spots, scenic overlooks, and trailheads. Parking is free along the roadside, but there’s a fee at the ranger station and at some of the other parking lots ($8).
The Mountain Theater, also known as the Cushing Memorial Amphitheatre, is a natural amphitheater with terraced stone seats (for nearly 4,000 people) constructed in its current form by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s.
The Rock Spring Trail starts at the Mountain Theater and gently climbs about 1¾ miles to the West Point Inn, once a stop on the Mt. Tam railroad route. Relax at a picnic table and stock up on water before forging ahead, via Old Railroad Grade Fire Road and the Miller Trail, to Mt. Tam’s Middle Peak, about 2 miles uphill.
Starting from the Pantoll Ranger Station, the precipitous Steep Ravine Trail brings you past stands of coastal redwoods and, in the springtime, numerous small waterfalls. Take the connecting Dipsea Trail to reach the town of Stinson Beach and its swath of golden sand. TIP If you’re too weary to make the 3½-mile trek back up, Marin Transit Bus 61 takes you from Stinson Beach back to the ranger station. | Pantoll Ranger Station,3801 Panoramic Hwy., at Pantoll Rd. | 415/388–2070 | www.parks.ca.gov.
Performing Arts
FAMILY | Mountain Play.
Every May and June, locals tote overstuffed picnic baskets to the Mountain Theater to see the Mountain Play, popular musicals such as The Music Man and My Fair Lady. | Mt. Tamalpais, Richardson Blvd. off Panoramic Hwy. | 415/383–1100 | www.mountainplay.org | $40.