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When San Franciscans refer to it, the East Bay often means nothing more than what you can see across the bay from the city—mainly Oakland and Berkeley. There’s far more here—industrial-chic Emeryville, the wooded ranchland of Walnut Creek, and sprawling, urban Richmond, to name a few other communities—but Berkeley, anchored by its world-class university, and Oakland, which struggles with violence but has booming arts, nightlife, and restaurant scenes, are the magnets that draw folks across the bay.
Berkeley
2 miles northeast of Bay Bridge.
The birthplace of the Free Speech Movement, the radical hub of the 1960s, the home of arguably the nation’s top public university, and the city whose government condemned the bombing of Afghanistan—Berkeley is all of those things. The city of 100,000 facing San Francisco across the bay is also culturally diverse, a breeding ground for social trends, a bastion of the counterculture, and an important center for Bay Area writers, artists, and musicians. Berkeley residents, students, and faculty spend hours nursing various coffee concoctions while they read, discuss, and debate at any of the dozens of cafés that surround the campus. It’s the quintessential university town, and many who graduated years ago still bask in daily intellectual conversation, great weather, and good food. Residents will walk out of their way to go to the perfect bread shop or consult with their favorite wine merchant.
Oakland may have Berkeley beat when it comes to cutting-edge arts, and the city may have forfeited some of its renegade 1960s spirit over the years, but unless a guy in a hot-pink satin body suit, skullcap, and cape rides a unicycle around your town, you’ll likely find Berkeley offbeat indeed.
Getting Here and Around
BART is the easiest way to get to Berkeley from San Francisco. Alight at the Downtown Berkeley (not North Berkeley) station, and walk a block up Center Street to get to the western edge of campus. AC Transit buses F and FS lines stop near the university and 4th Street shopping. By car, take I–80 east across the Bay Bridge then take the University Avenue exit through downtown Berkeley to the campus or take the Ashby Avenue exit and turn left on Telegraph Avenue. Once you arrive, explore on foot. Berkeley is very pedestrian-friendly.
Essentials
Visitor Information
Visit Berkeley. | 2030 Addison St., Suite 102, | Berkeley | 510/549–7040 | www.visitberkeley.com.
Exploring
Top Attractions
4th Street.
Several blocks centering on 4th Street north of University Avenue have evolved from light industrial uses into an upscale shopping and dining district. The compact area is busiest on bright weekend afternoons. Stained Glass Garden, Builders Booksource, and the Apple Store are among shoppers’ favorites, along with a slew of boutiques and wonderful paper stores. TIP A walk through the East Bay Vivarium, at 1827 5th Street, where turtles swim, Amazonian snakes slither, and baby mice (dinner) cower, is better than a walk through the reptile house at the zoo—and it’s free. | 4th St., between University Ave. and Delaware Sts. | Berkeley | www.fourthstreet.com.
Quick Bites: Cheese Board Pizza.
With a jazz combo playing in the storefront and a long line snaking down the block, Cheese Board Pizza taps into the pulse of the Gourmet Ghetto. The cooperatively owned takeout spot and restaurant draws devoted customers with the smell of just-baked garlic, fresh vegetables, and perfect sauces: one pizza a day, always vegetarian. For just a nibble, the Cheese Board bakery–cheese shop next door sells cookies, muffins, scones, bialys, and the best sourdough baguettes in town. | 1504–1512 Shattuck Ave., at Vine St. | Berkeley | 510/549–3055 | cheeseboardcollective.coop/pizza.
Fodor’s Choice | Gourmet Ghetto.
The success of Chez Panisse restaurant attracted other food-related enterprises to its stretch of Shattuck Avenue, and the area surrounding the intersection of Shattuck and Vine Street became known as the Gourmet Ghetto. Foodies will do well to spend a couple of hours here, poking around the food shops, grabbing a quick bite, or indulging in a full meal at one of the neighborhood’s many excellent eateries.
The line stretches down the block in front of Cheese Board Pizza, at 1512 Shattuck, where live jazz bands sometimes serenade the diners that spill out onto the sidewalk and median. Next door is the Cheese Board Collective—worker owned since 1971—and its fabulous bakery and extensive cheese counter. Next door to Chez Panisse, César (No. 1515) wine bar and tapas house is a good place for an afternoon quaff or late-night drink.
The small food stands of Epicurious Garden, at 1509–1513 Shattuck, sell everything from sushi to gelato. Out back, you can find a small terraced garden—the best place to sit—that winds up four levels and ends at the Imperial Tea Court. Around the corner just off Vine Street is Love at First Bite, a cupcakery that sells scrumptious confections. Across Vine, the Vintage Berkeley wine shop occupies the historic former pump house at No. 2113; the offerings here are shrewdly selected and reasonably priced. Coffee lovers of the Peet’s persuasion may want to pay respects at No. 2124, where the famed roaster got its start; the small café includes a display chronicling Peet’s history.
South of Cedar Street in the next block of Shattuck is the art-filled Guerilla Cafe (No. 1620), a breakfast and lunch spot beloved for its waffles (the Blue Bottle Coffee doesn’t hurt). Also look for the Local Butcher Shop (No. 1600), with locally sourced meat and hearty made-to-order sandwiches. A former Ritz-Carlton chef brings white-linen quality to his to-go counter, Grégoire, around the corner on Cedar Street (No. 2109). In the block north of Vine Street on Shattuck are popular Saul’s deli and restaurant and beautiful Masse’s Pastries. On Thursday, an organic farmers’ market thrives here. We could go on, but you get the idea. | Shattuck Ave. between Cedar and Rose Sts., North Berkeley | www.gourmetghetto.org.
FAMILY | Tilden Regional Park.
The Regional Parks Botanic Garden is the star of this 2,000-acre park in the hills east of the U.C. Berkeley campus. Botanically speaking, a stroll through the garden, which focuses on native plants of California, provides a whirlwind tour of the entire state. At the garden’s visitors center, you can pick up information about Tilden’s other attractions, including its picnic spots, Lake Anza swimming site, golf course, and hiking trails (the paved Nimitz Way, at Inspiration Point, is a popular hike with wonderful sunset views). TIP Children love Tilden Park’s miniature steam trains; Little Farm, where kids can feed the animals; and the vintage carousel with wooden animals. | Regional Parks Botanic Garden, Wildcat Canyon Rd. and South Park Dr., Tilden Park | 510/544–2747 | www.ebparks.org/parks/tilden | Free to park and botanic garden | Park daily 5 am–10 pm; garden daily 8:30–5 (5:30 in summer).
Berkeley’s Political History
Those looking for traces of Berkeley’s politically charged past need go no further than Sather Gate. Both the Free Speech Movement and the fledgling political life of actor-turned-politician Ronald Reagan have their roots here. It was next to Sather Gate, on September 30, 1964, that a group of students defied the University of California–Berkeley chancellor’s order that all organizations advocating “off-campus issues” (such as civil rights and nuclear disarmament) keep their information tables off campus. Citation of the tablers brought more than 400 sympathetic students into Sproul Hall that afternoon. They stayed until 3 am, setting a precedent of protest that would be repeated in the coming months, with students jamming Sproul Hall in greater numbers each time.
Conservative U.C. president Clark Kerr eventually backed down and allowed student groups to pass out information on campus. By then, the Free Speech Movement had gathered momentum, and the conflict had made a national hero of student leader Mario Savio. Political newcomer Ronald Reagan played on Californians’ unease about the unruly Berkeley students in his successful 1966 bid for governor, promising to rein in the “unwashed kooks.”
By the end of the 1960s, the cohesion of the groups making up the Free Speech Movement had begun to fray. Some members began questioning the efficacy of sit-ins and other nonviolent tactics that had, until then, been the hallmark of Berkeley student protests. The Black Panthers, headquartered just over the border in Oakland, were ascending into the national spotlight, and their “take no prisoners” approach appealed to some Berkeley activists who had seen little come of their efforts to affect national policy.
By 1969 both Robert Kennedy and Martin Luther King Jr. were dead, and the issue of the day—stopping the flow of troops heading to Vietnam—was not as easy as overpowering a school administration’s resistance to free speech. But a more dramatic clash with the university came when it brought in police units to repossess People’s Park, a university-owned plot of land at Telegraph Avenue and Haste Street that students and community members had adopted as a park. On the afternoon of May 15, 1969, nearly 6,000 students and residents moved to reclaim the park. In the ensuing riot, police and sheriff’s deputies fired both tear gas and buckshot, blinding one observer and killing another. Governor Ronald Reagan ordered the National Guard into Berkeley. Despite a ban on public assembly, crowds continued to gather and march in the days after the first riot. The park changed hands several times in the following tear-gas-filled months, with the fence coming down for the last time in 1972.
A colorful mural on the side of Amoeba Records (Haste Street at Telegraph Avenue) offers the protestors’ version of park history. Although the areas around People’s Park and Sather Gate may seem quiet now, issues such as affirmative action and tuition increases still bring protests to the steps of Sproul. Protests over civil rights, war, and other inequities march through the center of the campus, though students also gather to rally for sports events, social gatherings, and shows of school spirit.
University of California.
Known simply as “Cal,” the founding campus of California’s university system is one of the leading intellectual centers in the United States and a major site for scientific research. Chartered in 1868, the university sits on 178 oak-covered acres split by Strawberry Creek. Bounded by Bancroft Way to the south, Hearst Avenue to the north, Oxford Street to the west, and Gayley Road to the east, Cal has more than 35,000 students and a full-time faculty of 1,600.
Below are a few places of note on campus:
Berkeley Art Museum & Pacific Film Archive. The museum’s collection spans five centuries and is strong on mid-20th-century art, particularly abstract expressionist works. The archive is a major venue for foreign, independent, and avant-garde film. BAM/PFA is closed until 2016, when it reopens at a new location: | Oxford St. at Center St. | 510/642–0808 museum, 510/642–1124 film info | www.bampfa.berkeley.edu. | Berkeley | www.berkeley.edu.
Berkeley Visitor Information Center. You can get your bearings here and find out about campus events. Free 90-minute tours leave from here on weekdays. | 101 Sproul Hall, Bancroft Way at Telegraph Ave. | 510/642–5215 | visitors.berkeley.edu | Weekdays 8:30–4:30, tours at 10 am (also 1 pm in Apr.).
Sather Tower. Weekend campus tours leave from this landmark, popularly known as the Campanile, at 10 am on Saturday and 1 pm on Sunday. The 307-foot structure, modeled on St. Mark’s Tower in Venice, can be seen for miles. For a view of the campus and beyond, take the elevator up 175 feet, then walk another 38 steps to the observation deck. | Elevator $3 | Weekdays 10–4, Sat. 10–5, Sun. 10–1:30 and 3–5.
Sproul Plaza. The site of free-speech and civil-rights protests in the 1960s, the plaza remains a platform for political and social activists, musicians, and students. Preachers orate atop milk crates, amateur entertainers bang on makeshift drum sets, and protesters distribute leaflets about everything from marijuana to the Middle East. Walk through at noon for the liveliest show of student spirit. | Telegraph Ave. at Bancroft Way.
University of California Botanical Garden. Thanks to Berkeley’s temperate climate, about 13,500 species of plants from all over the world flourish in this 34-acre garden. Free tours are given on Thursdays and weekends at 1:30; the views are breathtaking. | 200 Centennial Dr. | 510/643–2755 | botanicalgarden.berkeley.edu | $10, free 1st Wed. of month | Daily 9–5, closed 1st Tues. of month.
Worth Noting
Berkeley Marina.
The marina has spectacular views of San Francisco and Angel Island from a ¾-mile-long wooden pier, and there are grassy expanses good for a picnic. On sunny days, the 90-acre Cesar E. Chavez Park, at the marina’s northern tip, fills with kite flyers, dog walkers, and families grilling and riding bikes. The Berkeley Kite Festival happens here each July, and thousands watch San Francisco’s Fourth of July fireworks from this spot—when they can be seen through the fog. | University Ave., ½ mile west of I–80 | Berkeley | www.ci.berkeley.ca.us/marina.
Elmwood.
Shops and cafés pack this pleasant neighborhood centered on College Avenue, just south of the U.C. campus. You’ll know you’re here when you see the logo for the beloved art-house cinema and performance space, the Elmwood theater, near College and Ashby avenues, though you’re just as apt to see a line snaking outside nearby Ici Ice Cream, at 2948 College. All the treats here are made on the premises. While you’re waiting, check out the architectural details of the nearby pre–World War II storefronts. Century-old shingled houses line the tree-shaded streets nearby. | College Ave. between Dwight Way and Alcatraz Ave., Elmwood | Berkeley.
Off the Beaten Path: Indian Rock Park.
An outcropping of nature in a sea of North Berkeley homes, this is an unbeatable spot for a sunset picnic. You know you’ve reached the rock when you see amateur rock climbers clinging precariously to its side. After-work walkers and cuddling couples, all watching the sun sinking beneath the Golden Gate Bridge, join you at the top. Come early to grab a spot on the rock while it’s still light. | 950 Indian Rock Ave., at Shattuck Ave. | Berkeley | Free | Daily 6 am–10 pm.
FAMILY | Lawrence Hall of Science.
At this hands-on science museum, kids can look at insects under microscopes, solve crimes using chemical forensics, and explore the physics of baseball. Out front they’ll climb on Pheena, a life-size blue-whale model, and clamber over a giant strand of DNA. Out back, it’s all about how earthquakes and water have shaped the bay, and from all vantage points sweeping views of the bay and beyond can be had. On weekends come special lectures, demonstrations, and planetarium shows. | 1 Centennial Dr. | Berkeley | 510/642–5132 | www.lawrencehallofscience.org | $12, planetarium $4 extra | Daily 10–5.
San Pablo Avenue.
Berkeley’s diversity is front and center along this evolving north–south artery in West Berkeley, where the old and new stand side by side: sari shops and a Mexican grocery do business near a hipster dive bar, a bait-and-tackle store, a typewriter store, and a dozen cool boutiques, all cheek by jowl in an eight-block microhood that doesn’t have a name … yet.
Start a block north of University Avenue at the Albatross Pub (No. 1822), a neighborhood favorite where grad students have been playing darts and eating free popcorn for 50 years. Tuck into solid Pakistani food at Indus Village (No. 1920) and stop by the Halal Food Market (No. 1964), then cross University Avenue. Duck into Mi Tierra Foods (No. 2082) for piñatas and chorizo—notice the Mission District–like mural—and Middle East Market (No. 2054) for rose water and rockin’ baklava. Café V (No. 2056) has fresh, reliably good, and reasonably priced Vietnamese food, and pretty much everyone loves the thin-crust pies at Lanesplitter Pizza & Pub (No. 2033). The coffee at Local 123 (No. 2049) is strong, delicious, and beautiful, and the back patio is a lovely surprise.
Old-fashioned, family-run Country Cheese (No. 2101) has hundreds of cheeses, of course, but it also carries great bulk foods and makes a heck of a sandwich to order. Or grab a table at industrial-cute Gaumenkitzel (No. 2121) and tuck in to schnitzel and other traditional German fare. The pierced-and-tattooed set loves Acme Bar & Company (No. 2115) for its Bloody Marys and whiskey selection.
As you move south, you’ll pass lots of home-decor shops. Witness the reupholstering genius on display at Mignonne Décor (No. 2447). One of the Bay Area’s oldest salvage shops, Ohmega Salvage (Nos. 2400–2407) makes for fun browsing, though its claw-foot tubs and Victorian window frames are pricey.
At the corner of Dwight Way, stop for more caffeine at Caffè Trieste (No. 2500), Berkeley’s homey branch of North Beach’s bohemian coffee bar. Arousing browsing can be had at sex-positive, woman-friendly Good Vibrations (No. 2504). Find wonderful gifts at Juniper Tree Supplies (No. 2520), with everything for the soap and candle maker, and Kiss My Ring (No. 2522), which stocks jewelry designed by the owner. | San Pablo Ave., between Delaware and Parker Sts. | Berkeley.
Telegraph Avenue.
Cafés, bookstores, poster shops, and street vendors line Berkeley’s student-oriented thoroughfare, a bustling, if shabby, place to whiff the city’s famed counterculture. T-shirt sellers and tarot-card readers come and go on a whim, but Rasputin Music (No. 2401), Amoeba Music (No. 2455), and Moe’s Books (No. 2476) are neighborhood landmarks worth checking out. Allen Ginsberg wrote his acclaimed poem “Howl” at Caffe Mediterraneum (No. 2475), a relic of 1960s-era café culture that also lays claim to inventing the café latte. TIP Panhandlers are omnipresent on Telegraph; take care at night, when things get edgier. | South of university from Bancroft Way | Berkeley.
Where to Eat
Dining in Berkeley is a low-key affair; even in the finest restaurants, most folks dress casually. Late diners be forewarned: Berkeley is an “early to bed” kind of town.
Angeline’s Louisiana Kitchen.
$ | SOUTHERN | The exposed brick walls, maps of Louisiana, ceiling fans, and New Orleans music create a festive atmosphere at Angeline’s. Specialties include Voo Doo Shrimp with blue lake beans, crawfish étouffée, and buttermilk fried chicken. The Creole pecan pie is so good you’ll be coming back for more. | Average main: $15 | 2261 Shattuck Ave., near Kittredge St. | Berkeley | 510/548–6900 | www.angelineskitchen.com | No lunch Mon.
FAMILY | Bette’s Oceanview Diner.
$ | AMERICAN | Buttermilk pancakes are just one of the specialties at this 1930s-inspired diner complete with checkered floors and burgundy booths. Huevos rancheros and lox and eggs are other breakfast options; kosher franks, generous slices of pizza, and a slew of sandwiches are available for lunch. The wait for a seat at breakfast can be quite long; thankfully, 4th Street was made for strolling. TIP If you’re starving, head to Bette’s to Go, next door, for takeout. | Average main: $10 | 1807 4th St., near Delaware St., 4th Street | Berkeley | 510/644–3230 | www.bettesdiner.com | Reservations not accepted | No dinner.
Café Rouge.
$$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | A spacious two-story bistro complete with zinc bar, skylights, and festive lanterns, Café Rouge provides a perfect respite from 4th Street shopping. The short, seasonal menu ranges from the sophisticated, such as duck confit and green-garlic risotto, to the homey, like spit-roasted chicken or pork loin, or cheddar-topped burgers. If you visit by day, take a peek at the meat market in the back. Regulars swear by the oyster bar. | Average main: $23 | 1782 4th St., at Delaware St., 4th Street | Berkeley | 510/525–1440 | www.caferouge.net | No dinner Mon.
César.
$$ | SPANISH | In true Spanish style, dinners are served late at César, whose kitchen closes at 11:30 pm on Friday and Saturday and at 11 pm the rest of the week. Couples spill out from its street-level windows on warm nights, or rub shoulders at the polished bar or center communal table. Founded by a trio of former Chez Panisse chefs, César is like a first cousin to that stalwart eatery right next door, each restaurant recommending the other if there’s a long wait ahead. For tapas and perfectly grilled bocadillos (small sandwiches), there’s no better choice. The bar also makes a mean martini and has an impressive wine list. TIP Come early to get seated quickly and to hear your tablemates; the room gets loud when the bar is in full swing. | Average main: $20 | 1515 Shattuck Ave., at Vine St., North Berkeley | 510/883–0222 | cesarberkeley.com | Reservations not accepted.
Fodor’s Choice | Chez Panisse Café & Restaurant.
$$$$ | AMERICAN | At Chez Panisse even humble pizza is reincarnated, with innovative toppings of the freshest local ingredients. The downstairs portion of Alice Waters’s legendary eatery is noted for its formality and personal service. The daily-changing multicourse dinners are prix-fixe, with the cost slightly lower on weekdays. Upstairs, in the informal café, the crowd is livelier, the prices are lower, and the ever-changing menu is à la carte. The food is simpler, too: penne with new potatoes, arugula, and sheep’s-milk cheese; fresh figs with Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and arugula; and grilled tuna with savoy cabbage, for example. Legions of loyal fans insist that Chez Panisse lives up to its reputation and delivers a dining experience well worth the price. TIP It’s wise to make your reservation a few weeks ahead of your visit. | Average main: $100 | 1517 Shattuck Ave., at Vine St., North Berkeley | 510/548–5525 restaurant, 510/548–5049 café | www.chezpanisse.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. No lunch in the restaurant.
Comal.
$$ | MODERN MEXICAN | Relaxed yet trendy and surprisingly elegant for this university town, Comal draws a diverse, multigenerational, decidedly casual crowd for creative Mexican-influenced fare and well-crafted cocktails. The menu centers on small dishes that lend themselves to sharing: try the bright and subtle Dungeness crab with avocado, endive, and mandarins; tender and perfectly seasoned heritage pork enchiladas; or quesadillas with hen of the woods mushrooms. If you can’t choose from among the more than 100 tequilas and mescals, four different flights offer samples from particular regions or family distilleries. | Average main: $16 | 2020 Shattuck Ave., near University Ave., Downtown | Berkeley | 510/926–6300 | www.comalberkeley.com | No lunch.
Corso Trattoria.
$$ | TUSCAN | On the edge of Berkeley’s Gourmet Ghetto, this lively spot serves up excellent Florentine cuisine in a spare but snazzy space. The open kitchen at the back dominates the room (which can get smoky at times), and the closely spaced tables add to the festivity of dining here. The seasonal menu might include pan-roasted sturgeon with Brussels sprouts or butter-roasted chicken breast. Side dishes are ordered separately; the baked polenta with mascarpone and Parmesan is a definite crowd pleaser. An extensive Italian wine list complements the menu; save room for the memorable panna cotta. | Average main: $20 | 1788 Shattuck Ave., at Delaware St., North Berkeley | 510/704–8004 | www.trattoriacorso.com | No lunch.
Gather.
$$ | AMERICAN | Here organic, sustainable, and all things Berkeley reside harmoniously beneath one tasty roof. This vibrant, well-lit eatery boasts funky lighting fixtures, a variety of shiny wood furnishings, and banquettes made of recycled leather belts. Everything feels contemporary and local, especially the food. Locals foresee doom in the disappearance of the vegan “charcuterie,” made of root vegetables, which put the restaurant on the national map; but the stinging nettles pizza is refreshing, and the grilled chicken is oh so juicy. This is a haven for vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free eaters, but there’s plenty for meat eaters to choose from, too. Desserts don’t get much better than the chocolate semifreddo with Zinfandel-braised Mission figs and pine nuts. | Average main: $22 | 2200 Oxford St., at Allston Way | Berkeley | 510/809–0400 | www.gatherrestaurant.com.
Ippuku.
$$$ | JAPANESE | More Tokyo street chic than standard sushi house, this izakaya—the Japanese equivalent of a bar with appetizers—with bamboo-screen booths serves up surprising fare, from chicken tartare to wonderful yakitori, skewers such as bacon-wrapped enoki, bacon-wrapped mushrooms, and pork belly. (Anything skewered here is sure to please.) Dinner beats lunch at Ippuku, and savvy diners make reservations and arrive early for the best selection. The bar, which opens onto the street, pours an impressive array of sakes and shōchū (liquor distilled from sweet potatoes, rice, or barley). | Average main: $23 | 2130 Center St., Downtown | Berkeley | 510/665–1969 | www.ippukuberkeley.com | No lunch.
Lalime’s.
$$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | Inside a charming, flower-covered house, this restaurant serves dishes that reflect the entire Mediterranean region. The menu, constantly changing and unfailingly great, depends on the availability of fresh seasonal ingredients. Choices might include grilled ahi tuna, creamy Italian risotto, or grilled lamb chops. The two-level dining room is cheerful and light. Excellent and long-lived but not flashy, the restaurant has a legion of dedicated fans, many middle-aged and up. TIP Lalime’s is a good second choice if Chez Panisse is booked up. | Average main: $27 | 1329 Gilman St., at Tevlin St., North Berkeley | 510/527–9838 | www.lalimes.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. No lunch.
FAMILY | Picante.
$ | MEXICAN | A barnlike space full of cheerful Mexican tiles and folk-art masks, Picante is a find for anyone seeking good, Cal-Mex food for a song. The masa is freshly ground for the tortillas and tamales (it’s fun to watch the tamale maker in action), the salsas are complex, and the flavor combinations are inventive. Try tamales filled with butternut squash and chilies or a simple taco of roasted poblanos and sautéed onions; we challenge you to finish a plate of supernachos. Picante is beloved of Berkeley families with raucous children, as they fit right in to the festival-like atmosphere and are happily distracted by the fountain on the back patio. | Average main: $12 | 1328 6th St., near Camelia St. | Berkeley | 510/525–3121 | www.picanteberkeley.com | Reservations not accepted.
FAMILY | Rick & Ann’s.
$$ | AMERICAN | Haute comfort food is the focus at this cute diner across from the Claremont hotel. The brunches are legendary for quality and value, and customers line up outside the door before the restaurant opens on the weekend. If you come during prime brunch hours, expect a long wait, but the soft-style eggs are worth it. Pancakes, waffles, and French toast are more flavorful than usual, with variations such as potato-cheese and orange–rice flour pancakes. Lunch and dinner offer burgers, favorites such as Mom’s macaroni and cheese, and chicken potpie, but always with a festive twist. Reservations are accepted for dinner and for lunch parties of six or more, but, alas, you can’t reserve a table for brunch. | Average main: $16 | 2922 Domingo Ave., at Ashby Ave., Claremont | Berkeley | 510/649–8538 | www.rickandanns.com | No dinner Mon.
Rivoli.
$$$ | AMERICAN | Italian-inspired dishes using fresh, mostly organic California ingredients star on a menu that changes every three weeks. Typical meals include line-caught fish, pastas, and inventive offerings such as Rivoli’s trademark portobello fritters with aioli. Desserts might include pear granita with gingersnaps or a refreshing Meyer-lemon tart. A lovely back garden and attentive service add to the overall appeal, though some diners find the tables are too closely spaced. The small front bar is a cozy spot for a drink and dessert, but it’s standing-room-only on a busy night. | Average main: $26 | 1539 Solano Ave., at Neilson St. | Berkeley | 510/526–2542 | www.rivolirestaurant.com | Reservations essential | No lunch.
FAMILY | Saul’s.
$ | AMERICAN | Well known for its homemade sodas and enormous sandwiches, the Saul’s of today uses sustainably sourced seafood, grass-fed beef, and organic eggs. The restaurant is a Berkeley institution, and its loyal clientele swears by the pastrami sandwiches, stuffed-cabbage rolls, and tuna melts. For breakfast, the challah French toast is so thick it’s almost too big to bite, and the deli omelets are served pancake style. The high ceilings and red-leather booths add to the friendly, retro atmosphere. TIP Don’t overlook the glass deli case, where you can order food to go. | Average main: $15 | 1475 Shattuck Ave., near Vine St., North Berkeley | 510/848–3354 | www.saulsdeli.com | Reservations not accepted.
Where to Stay
For inexpensive lodging, investigate University Avenue, west of campus. The area can be noisy, congested, and somewhat dilapidated, but it does include a few decent motels and chain properties. All Berkeley lodgings, except for the swanky Claremont, are strictly mid-range.
The Bancroft Hotel.
$$ | HOTEL | Lovingly remodeled in 2012, this green boutique hotel—across from the U.C. campus—is fresh, stylish, and completely eco-friendly. The American clay walls literally clean the air, the chic drapes are made from recycled soda pop bottles, and the rich wooden floors come from sustainably harvested trees. The decor is mostly soothing greens and browns, and the bedroom furniture is designed to fit the 1920s-style building. Pros: closest hotel in Berkeley to campus; friendly staff; many rooms have good views. Cons: some rooms are small; bathrooms small and need updating; no elevator. | Rooms from: $155 | 2680 Bancroft Way | Berkeley | 510/549–1000 | bancrofthotel.com | 22 rooms | Breakfast.
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Claremont Resort and Spa.
$$$$ | HOTEL | Straddling the Oakland–Berkeley border, this amenities-rich resort—which celebrates its centennial in 2015—beckons like a gleaming white castle in the hills. The complex lures traveling executives with conveniences that include T-1 Internet connections, guest email addresses, and oversize desks, but also attracts honeymooners and leisure travelers with its luxurious suites, therapeutic massages, and personalized yoga workouts at the on-site spa. The rooms on the spa side of the hotel glow with new fixtures and furniture. Some offer spa tubs and, if you’re high enough, spectacular bay views. (Another advantage: the scents wafting upward from the spa treatment rooms.) Pros: amazing spa; supervised child care; solid business amenities; great bay views from some rooms. Cons: parking is pricey; resort charge for use of spa, tennis courts, pool, gym; additional fee for breakfast. | Rooms from: $270 | 41 Tunnel Rd., at Ashby and Domingo Aves., Claremont | Berkeley | 510/843–3000, 800/551–7266 | www.claremontresort.com | 249 rooms, 30 suites | No meals.
Holiday Inn Express.
$$ | HOTEL | Convenient to the freeway and 4th Street shopping, this peach-and-beige hotel provides good bang for the buck. The two-story property is surprisingly elegant; high ceilings lend the lobby and rooms an airy quality. Each room has a small kitchen area with a refrigerator, a microwave, a sink, and cabinets. The free amenities include Wi-Fi, a business center, a small but well-equipped gym, a breakfast bar each morning, and parking. Pros: good breakfast; short walk to restaurant options on San Pablo and University; free Internet in rooms. Cons: area can be noisy and congested with traffic during commute hours; neighborhood can feel sketchy after dark. | Rooms from: $190 | 1175 University Ave., at Curtis St. | Berkeley | 510/548–1700, 866/548–1700 | www.hiexberkeley.com | 69 rooms, 3 suites | Breakfast.
Hotel Durant.
$$ | HOTEL | A mainstay of parents visiting their children at U.C. Berkeley, this boutique hotel is also a good option for those who want to be a short walk from Telegraph Avenue. Recent renovations pay subtle tribute to the 1960s, with retro upholstered headboards and tie-dye curtains in guest rooms and “lava towers” in the lobby. Photos of Berkeley highlight the hotel’s storied past. In the present, the Durant is eco-conscious, with cleaning done using nonchemical, all-natural products. Service is friendly but can be amateurish. Prices take a huge jump at graduation and when there’s a football game or other major university event. Pros: convenient location to Cal and public transit; blackout shades; organic bathrobes. Cons: downstairs bar can get noisy during Cal games; parking can be pricey; service can be inept. | Rooms from: $180 | 2600 Durant Ave., at Bowditch St. | Berkeley | 510/845–8981 | www.hoteldurant.com | 143 rooms | No meals.
Fodor’s Choice | Hotel Shattuck Plaza.
$$$ | HOTEL | This historic boutique hotel sits amid Berkeley’s downtown arts district, just steps from the U.C. campus and a short walk from the Gourmet Ghetto. The elegant property emphasizes its turn-of-the-20th-century glamour (the Shattuck was built in 1910), but from HDTVs in every room to eco-conscious business practices, the hotel is completely upgraded and modernized. Five, the on-site restaurant, prides itself on farm-to-table dining, and the bar is well known for its tasty cocktails. Pros: central location; near public transit; modern facilities; good views; great restaurant. Cons: pricey parking; limited fitness center. | Rooms from: $209 | 2086 Allston Way, at Shattuck Ave., Downtown | Berkeley | 510/845–7300 | www.hotelshattuckplaza.com | 199 rooms, 17 suites | No meals.
Nightlife and Performing Arts
Berkeley Repertory Theatre.
One of the region’s highly respected resident professional companies, Berkeley Rep performs classic and contemporary plays. Well-known pieces such as Crime and Punishment and The Arabian Nights mix with edgier fare like Green Day’s American Idiot and Lemony Snicket’s The Composer Is Dead. The theater’s complex is in the heart of downtown Berkeley’s arts district, near BART’s Downtown Berkeley station. | 2025 Addison St., near Shattuck Ave. | Berkeley | 510/647–2949 | www.berkeleyrep.org.
Berkeley Symphony Orchestra.
The works of 20th-century composers are a focus of this prominent orchestra, but traditional pieces are also performed. BSO plays a handful of concerts each year, in Zellerbach Hall and other locations. | 1942 University Ave., Suite 207 | Berkeley | 510/841–2800 | www.berkeleysymphony.org.
Cal Performances.
The series, running from September through May at Zellerbach Hall and various other U.C. Berkeley venues, offers the Bay Area’s most varied bill of internationally acclaimed artists in all disciplines, from classical soloists to the latest jazz, world-music, theater, and dance ensembles. Past performers include Mark Morris Dance Group, the Peking Acrobats, Arlo Guthrie, and Yo-Yo Ma. | Zellerbach Hall, Telegraph Ave. and Bancroft Way | Berkeley | 510/642–9988 | calperformances.org.
Fodor’s Choice | Freight & Salvage Coffeehouse.
Some of the most talented practitioners of folk, blues, Cajun, and bluegrass perform in this alcohol-free space, one of the country’s finest folk houses. Most tickets cost less than $30. | 2020 Addison St., between Shattuck Ave. and Milvia St. | Berkeley | 510/644–2020 | www.thefreight.org.
Shopping
Fodor’s Choice | Amoeba Music.
Heaven for audiophiles, this legendary Berkeley favorite is the place to head for new and used CDs, records, cassettes, and DVDs. The dazzling stock includes thousands of titles for all music tastes. The store even has its own record label. There are branches in San Francisco and Hollywood, but this is the original. | 2455 Telegraph Ave., at Haste St. | Berkeley | 510/549–1125 | www.amoeba.com.
Body Time.
Founded in Berkeley in 1970, this local chain uses premium-quality ingredients to create its natural perfumes and skin-care and aromatherapy products. Sustainably harvested essential oils that you can combine and dilute to create your own personal fragrances are the specialty. The Citrus, Lavender-Mint, and China Rain scents are all popular. | 1950 Shattuck Ave., at Berkeley Way | Berkeley | 510/841–5818 | www.bodytime.com.
Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant.
Credited with taking American appreciation of French wine to a higher level, this small shop is a great place to peruse as you educate your palate. The friendly salespeople can direct you to the latest French bargains. | 1605 San Pablo Ave., at Dwight Way | Berkeley | 510/524–1524 | kermitlynch.com.
Moe’s Books.
The spirit of Moe—the cantankerous, cigar-smoking late proprietor—lives on in this four-story house of books. Students and professors come here to browse the large selection of used books, including literary and cultural criticism, art titles, and literature in foreign languages. | 2476 Telegraph Ave., near Haste St. | Berkeley | 510/849–2087 | moesbooks.com.
Fodor’s Choice | Rasputin Music.
A huge selection of new music for every taste draws crowds, and only in a town that also contained Amoeba Music could Rasputin’s stock of used CDs and vinyl be surpassed. | 2403 Telegraph Ave., at Channing Way | Berkeley | 510/848–9004 | www.rasputinmusic.com.
Oakland
East of Bay Bridge.
Often overshadowed by San Francisco’s beauty and Berkeley’s storied counterculture, Oakland’s allure lies in its amazing diversity. Here you can find a Nigerian clothing store, a beautifully renovated Victorian home, a Buddhist meditation center, and a lively salsa club, all within the same block.
Oakland’s multifaceted nature reflects its colorful and often tumultuous history. Once a cluster of Mediterranean-style homes and gardens that served as a bedroom community for San Francisco, the city became a hub of shipbuilding and industry almost overnight when the United States entered World War II. New jobs in the city’s shipyards and factories attracted thousands of workers, including some of the first female welders, and the city’s neighborhoods were imbued with a proud but gritty spirit. In the 1960s and ’70s this intense community pride gave rise to such militant groups as the Black Panther Party and the Symbionese Liberation Army, but they were little match for the economic hardships and racial tensions that plagued Oakland. In many neighborhoods the reality was widespread poverty and gang violence—subjects that dominated the songs of such Oakland-bred rappers as the late Tupac Shakur. The highly publicized protests of the Occupy Oakland movement in 2011 and 2012 and the #BlackLivesMatter movement of 2014 and 2015 illustrated just how much Oakland remains a mosaic of its past.
The affluent reside in the city’s hillside homes, wooded enclaves like Claremont and Montclair, which provide a warmer, more spacious, and more affordable alternative to San Francisco, while a constant flow of newcomers—many from Central America and Asia—ensures continued diversity, vitality, and growing pains. Many neighborhoods to the west and south of the city center remain run-down and unsafe, but a renovated downtown area—sparking a vibrant arts scene—has injected new energy into the city. Even San Franciscans, often loath to cross the Bay Bridge, come to Uptown and Temescal for the crackling arts and restaurant scenes there.
Everyday life here revolves around the neighborhood, with a main business strip attracting both shoppers and strollers. In some areas, such as high-end Piedmont and Rockridge, you’d swear you were in Berkeley or San Francisco’s Noe Valley or Cow Hollow. Along Telegraph Avenue just south of 51st Street, Temescal is pulsing with creative culinary and design energy. These are perfect places for browsing, eating, or just relaxing between sightseeing trips to Oakland’s architectural gems, rejuvenated waterfront, and numerous green spaces.
Getting Here and Around
Driving from San Francisco, take Interstate 80 East across the Bay Bridge, then take Interstate 580 to the Grand Avenue exit for Lake Merritt. To reach downtown and the waterfront, take Interstate 980 from Interstate 580 and exit at 12th Street; exit at 18th Street for Uptown. For Temescal, take Interstate 580 to Highway 24 and exit at 51st Street.
By BART, use the Lake Merritt Station for the Oakland Museum and southern Lake Merritt; the Oakland City Center–12th Street Station for downtown, Chinatown, and Old Oakland; and the 19th Street Station for Uptown, the Paramount Theatre, and the north side of Lake Merritt.
By bus, take the AC Transit’s C and P lines to get to Piedmont in Oakland. The O bus stops at the edge of Chinatown near downtown Oakland.
Oakland’s Jack London Square is an easy hop on the ferry from San Francisco. Those without cars can take advantage of the free Broadway Shuttle, which runs from the square down Broadway through Chinatown/Old Oakland, downtown, Uptown, and Lake Merritt, all the way to 27th Street. The shuttle runs late on Friday and Saturday nights; its website has full schedule information.
Once you arrive, be aware of how quickly neighborhoods can change. Walking is safe downtown and in the Piedmont and Rockridge areas, but avoid walking west and southeast of downtown.
Essentials
Shuttle Contact
Broadway Shuttle. | Oakland | www.meetdowntownoak.com.
Visitor Information
Visit Oakland. | Jack London Sq.,481 Water St., near Broadway, | Oakland | 510/839–9000 | visitoakland.org.
Exploring
Top Attractions
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Oakland Museum of California.
The museum surveys the state’s art, history, and natural wonders in three galleries of absorbing, detailed exhibits. You can travel through myriad ecosystems in the Gallery of California Natural Sciences, from the sand dunes of the Pacific to the coyotes and brush of the Nevada border. Kids love the lifelike wild-animal exhibits, especially the snarling wolverine and the big-eyed harbor seal. The rambling Gallery of California History includes everything from Spanish-era armor to a small but impressive collection of vintage vehicles, including a red, gold, and silver fire engine that battled the flames in San Francisco following the 1906 earthquake. Of particular interest in the Gallery of California Art are paintings by Richard Diebenkorn, Joan Brown, Elmer Bischoff, and David Park, all members of the Bay Area figurative school, which flourished here after World War II. Fans of Dorothea Lange won’t want to miss the comprehensive collection of her photographs. TIP On Friday evening the museum is a lively scene, with live music, food trucks, and half-price admission. | 1000 Oak St., at 10th St., Downtown | Oakland | 510/238–2200 | www.museumca.org | $15, $7.50 Thurs. 5–9, free 1st Sun. of month | Wed.–Thurs. 11–5, Fri. 11–9, weekends 10–6.
Fodor’s Choice | Paramount Theatre.
A glorious art-deco specimen, the Paramount operates as a venue for concerts and performances of all kinds, from the Oakland East Bay Symphony to Tom Waits and Elvis Costello. The popular monthly movie nights start off with a 30-minute Wurlitzer concert preceding classic films such as Casablanca. TIP The docent-led tours here are fun and informative. | 2025 Broadway, at 20th St., Uptown | Oakland | 510/465–6400 | www.paramounttheatre.com | Tour $5 | Tour 10 am on 1st and 3rd Sat. of month.
Rockridge.
This upscale neighborhood is one of Oakland’s most desirable places to live. Explore the tree-lined streets that radiate out from College Avenue just north and south of the Rockridge BART station for a look at California bungalow architecture at its finest. By day College Avenue between Broadway and Alcatraz Avenue is crowded with shoppers buying fresh flowers, used books, and clothing; by night the same folks are back for dinner and locally brewed ales in the numerous restaurants and pubs. With its pricey specialty-food shops, Market Hall, an airy European-style marketplace at Shafter Avenue, is a hub of culinary activity. | Oakland | www.rockridgedistrict.com.
Fodor’s Choice | Temescal.
Centering on Telegraph Avenue between Piedmont and South Berkeley, Temescal (“sweat house” in the language of the Aztec) is a low-pretension, moneyed-hipster hood with many young families and—gasp—middle-aged folks thrown into of the mix. A critical mass of excellent eateries, from veteran Doña Tomás and favorites Pizzaiola and Aunt Mary’s to Bakesale Betty ( 5098 Telegraph Ave.), where folks line up for the fried-chicken sandwich on the one-item menu, and Doughnut Dolly ( 482B 49th St.), who fills her fried treats to order, draws folks from around the Bay Area. Old-time dive bars and check-cashing places share space with newer arrivals like crafty, local children’s clothing shop Ruby’s Garden ( 5026 Telegraph Ave.) and stalwart East Bay Depot for Creative Reuse ( 4695 Telegraph Ave.), where you might find a bucket of buttons or 1,000 muffin wrappers for $1 among birdcages, furniture, lunch boxes, and ribbon.
Around the corner, Temescal Alley (49th St.), a tucked-away lane of tiny storefronts, crackles with the creative energy of the craftspeople who have set up shop there. You can make some surprising finds at Crimson Horticultural Rarities and the fresh home-decor shop Bounty and Feast. | Telegraph Ave., between 45th and 51st Sts., Temescal | Oakland | www.temescaldistrict.org.
Uptown.
This is where nightlife and cutting-edge art happens in Oakland, along the formerly gritty, currently crazy-cool Telegraph Avenue/Broadway corridor north of downtown. Dozens of galleries cluster around Telegraph, showing everything from photography and video installations to glasswork and textile arts. On the first Friday of the month, thousands descend for the neighborhood’s biggest happening, the gallery walk Art Murmur (oaklandartmurmur.org). In addition to galleries open late, Art Murmur has expanded into First Friday, a veritable festival featuring food trucks, street vendors, and live music along Telegraph Avenue. Less raucous and more intimate is the Saturday Stroll, with member galleries open on Saturday from 1 to 5, often with special events.
Lively restaurants with a distinctly urban vibe make the neighborhood a dining destination; favorites include friendly Luka’s Taproom and Lounge (2221 Broadway); beautiful art-deco Flora (1900 Telegraph Ave.), one of the best brunch places in town; trendy, graffiti-walled Hawker Fare (2300 Webster St.), serving Asian street food; elegant Picán (2295 Broadway), for upscale Southern comfort food; and the sophisticated Plum (2216 Broadway) and its attached bar, just to name a few.
Toss in the bevy of bars, and there’s plenty within walking distance to keep you busy for an entire evening: Cafe Van Kleef (1621 Telegraph Ave.), the friendly jumble that started it all Uptown; Bar Three Fifty-Five (355 19th St.), a house of great cocktails; strikingly beautiful but low-key Dogwood (1644 Telegraph Ave.), which has tasty nibbles; and Somar (1727 Telegraph Ave.), a bar, music lounge, and gallery in one. Uptown’s shopping element is exploding as well, with local goods at the fore; stop by Oaklandish (1444 Broadway) for T-shirts, jeans, and everything Oaktown, and OwlNWood (45 Grand Ave.) for the coolest collection of vintage and locally designed clothing in town. The Paramount Theatre, the Fox Theater, and other art-deco architectural gems distinguish this neighborhood. | Telegraph Ave. and Broadway from 16th to 26th Sts. | Oakland.
Worth Noting
Chinatown.
A densely packed, bustling neighborhood, Oakland’s Chinatown, unlike its San Francisco counterpart, makes no concessions to tourists. You won’t find baskets of trinkets lining the sidewalk and souvenir displays in the shop windows, but supermarkets such as Yuen Hop Noodle Company and Asian Food Products (824 Webster St.), open since 1931, overflow with delicacies, and the line for sweets, breads, and towering cakes snakes out the door of Napoleon Super Bakery (810 Franklin St.). | Between Broadway and Lakeside Dr. and between 6th and 12th Sts. | Oakland | www.oakland-chinatown.info.
Jack London Square.
Shops, minor historic sites, restaurants, and the venerable Yoshi’s jazz club line Jack London Square, named for the author of The Call of the Wild, The Sea Wolf, and other books. London, who was born in San Francisco, also lived in Oakland, where he spent many a day boozing and brawling in the waterfront area, most notably at the tiny Heinold’s First and Last Chance Saloon (48 Webster St., at Embarcadero W). The wonderful saloon has been serving since 1883. Next door is the Klondike cabin in which London spent a summer in the late 1890s. The cabin was moved from Alaska and reassembled here in 1970.
Weekends at the square are lively, with diners filling the many outdoor patios, and shoppers perusing Sunday’s farmers’ market, from 9 am to 2 pm. TIP The square is worth a peek if you’ve arrived on the ferry that docks here; but you’ll get a better feel for Oakland checking out the Uptown, Rockridge, or Temescal neighborhoods. | Embarcadero W at Broadway | Oakland | 510/645–9292 | www.jacklondonsquare.com.
Lake Merritt.
Joggers and power walkers charge along the 3-mile path that encircles this 155-acre natural saltwater lake in downtown Oakland. Crew teams often glide across the water, and boatmen guide snuggling couples in authentic Venetian gondolas (fares start at $60 per couple for 30 minutes | 510/663–6603 | gondolaservizio.com). Lakeside Park, which surrounds the north side of Lake Merritt, has several outdoor attractions, including a small children’s park and a waterfowl refuge. The lake is less an attraction than a pleasant backdrop to Oaklanders’ everyday life. TIP The nearby Grand Lake neighborhood, centering on the parallel commercial strips of Lakeshore Avenue and Grand Avenue, makes for good browsing and even better eating. | Lakeside Park, Bellevue and Grand Aves. | Oakland | www.lakemerritt.org.
Old Oakland.
The restored Victorian storefronts lining four historic blocks, formerly Oakland’s main business district, now contain restaurants, cafés, shops, galleries, and a three-block farmers’ market that takes place on Friday morning. Architectural consistency distinguishes the area from surrounding streets, lending it a distinct neighborhood feel. Tuscany-inspired Caffè 817 (817 Washington St.) serves excellent panini and bowls of café latte in an artsy atmosphere. Stop in for a deli sandwich at the Italian grocery Ratto’s International Market (827 Washington St.), in business for more than a century, or head over to Pacific Coast Brewing Company (902 Washington St.) for a microbrew on the patio. The Trappist (460 8th St.) beer bar wins loyalty for its exhaustive selection of Belgian ales. Various pop-up boutiques and permanent shops throughout the neighborhood are reinvigorating the storefront scene. | Bordered by 7th, 10th, Clay, and Washington Sts. | Oakland | old-oakland.com.
Redwood Regional Park.
Sequoia sempervirens, or coastal redwoods, grow to 150 feet tall in Redwood Regional Park, one of the few spots in the Bay Area that escaped timber-hungry loggers in the 19th century. The 1,836-acre park has forested picnic spots and dozens of hiking trails, including part of the 31-mile Skyline National Trail, which links Redwood to four other parks in the Berkeley–Oakland hills. From downtown Oakland take Interstate 580 east toward Hayward, exit at 35th Avenue/MacArthur Boulevard, and then take 35th Avenue east (which becomes Redwood Road). Watch for a park entrance on the left, 3 to 4 miles down the road. | 7867 Redwood Rd. | Oakland | 888/327–2757 | www.ebparks.org/parks/redwood | Free; $5 per vehicle in season at some major entrances, $4 per trailered vehicle | Daily 5 am–10 pm.
Where to Eat
À Côté.
$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | This place for Mediterranean food is all about small plates, cozy tables, family-style eating—and truly excellent food. The butternut-squash ravioli, wild-boar chestnut sausage, and duck confit flatbread with apples and cantelet cheese are all fine choices, and you won’t find a better plate of pommes frites (french fries) anywhere. The restaurant pours more than 40 wines by the glass. Among the tempting desserts here are the lemon pudding cake with lemon cream, huckleberries, and candied pistachios. Heavy wooden tables, cool tiles, and natural light make this a destination for students, families, couples, and the after-work crowd; the heated back patio is warm and welcoming in any weather. | Average main: $20 | 5478 College Ave., at Taft Ave., Rockridge | Oakland | 510/655–6469 | www.acoterestaurant.com | No lunch.
Brown Sugar Kitchen.
$ | AMERICAN | Chef and owner Tanya Holland turned an isolated corner in West Oakland into a breakfast and lunch destination. Influenced by her African-American heritage and her culinary education in France—and using local, organic, and seasonal products—she blends sweet and savory flavors like no one else and pairs her dishes with well-chosen wines. The dining room is fresh and bright, with a long, sleek counter, red-leather stools, and spacious booths and tables. TIP This is the place to come for chicken and waffles. | Average main: $15 | 2534 Mandela Pkwy., at 26th St., West Oakland | 510/839–7685 | www.brownsugarkitchen.com | Closed Mon. No dinner.
Camino.
$$$ | AMERICAN | Chef-owner Russell Moore cooked at Chez Panisse for two decades before opening this restaurant with co-owner Allison Hopelain that focuses on simple, seasonal, straightforward dishes cooked in an enormous, crackling camino (Italian for “fireplace”). The nightly changing menu has only three entrées—each cooked over its own open fire— including one vegetarian option such as eggplant gratin. Everything is made with top-notch ingredients, including local sardines and smelts, grilled lamb and sausage, and Dungeness crab (cooked in the fireplace with rutabagas). Camino is decorated in a Craftsman-meets-refectory style, with brick walls and two long redwood communal tables. TIP A gin-based libation with house-made cherry and hibiscus bitters is among the perfectly crafted, seasonally inspired cocktails poured here. | Average main: $26 | 3917 Grand Ave., at Boulevard Way, Grand Lake | Oakland | 510/547–5035 | www.caminorestaurant.com | Closed Tues. No lunch (weekend brunch 10–2).
Chop Bar.
$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | The walls and tables are made of reclaimed wood at this small, stylish space whose knowing, tattooed bartenders serve potent cocktails. A great neighborhood joint for every meal of the day (and brunch on weekends), Chop Bar serves upmarket gastropub grub, including favorites such as oxtail poutine, pork confit with polenta and kale, and burgers that rank among the Bay Area’s best. On sunny days when the glass garage door is raised, extending the outdoor seating area out front, you’ll feel like an insider who’s stumbled upon an industrial neighborhood’s cool secret. | Average main: $20 | 247 4th St., at Alice St., Jack London Square | Oakland | 510/834–2467 | www.oaklandchopbar.com.
Commis.
$$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | A slender, unassuming storefront in Oakland’s Piedmont neighborhood houses the only East Bay restaurant with a Michelin star. The room is simple and polished: nothing distracts from the artistry of the fixed multicourse meals ($95, wine pairing $55 additional) chef James Syhabout creates based on the season and his distinctive vision. Dishes might include poached egg yolk with smoked dates and alliums (members of the onion/garlic family) in malt vinegar, or duck roasted on the bone over charcoal with renderings, walnut, and persimmon. Diners don’t see the menu until after the meal, the chef’s way of ensuring that everyone comes to the table with an open mind. TIP This isn’t a place to grab a quick bite: meals last about three hours. The service is excellent. | Average main: $95 | 3859 Piedmont Ave., at Rio Vista Ave., Piedmont | Oakland | 510/653–3902 | commisrestaurant.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and Tues. No lunch.
Doña Tomás.
$$ | MEXICAN | A neighborhood favorite, this spot in Oakland’s hot Temescal District serves seasonal Mexican fare to a hip but low-key crowd. Mexican textiles and art adorn walls in two long rooms; there’s also a vine-covered patio. Tuck into starters such as quesadillas filled with butternut squash and goat cheese and entrées such as albondigas en sopa zanahoria (pork-and-beef meatballs in carrot puree). Some mighty fine tequilas complement the offerings. Brunch is served on weekends. | Average main: $19 | 5004 Telegraph Ave., near 51st St., Temescal | Oakland | 510/450–0522 | www.donatomas.com | Closed Mon. No lunch weekdays. No dinner Sun.
Le Cheval Restaurant.
$ | VIETNAMESE | This cavernous restaurant, a lunchtime favorite, is a good place to sample pho, Hanoi-style beef noodle soup fragrant with star anise. Other entrées include lemon chicken, cubed beefsteak, and clay-pot snapper. It’s hard to spend more than $20 for an entire meal unless you order the seven courses of beef ($28). The complimentary minibowls of soup that are placed on the table as soon as you sit down are a great balm to hungry diners, though the service is lightning-quick anyway. | Average main: $12 | 1019 Clay St., at 11th St., Old Oakland | 510/763–8495 | www.lecheval.com | No lunch Sun.
Luka’s Taproom & Lounge.
$$ | AMERICAN | Hip and urban, with an unpretentious vibe, Luka’s is a real taste of Uptown. Diners nibble on frites (fries) any Belgian would embrace and entrées such as crispy-skin salmon or gratinéed mac and cheese. The brews draw them in, too—a nice selection of Trappist ales complements plentiful beers on tap and international bottles—and the DJs in the adjacent lounge keep the scene going late. TIP Hungry night owls appreciate the late-night menu, served daily until midnight. | Average main: $19 | 2221 Broadway, at West Grand Ave., Uptown | Oakland | 510/451–4677 | www.lukasoakland.com.
Oliveto Cafe & Restaurant.
$$$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | Respected chef Jonah Rhodehamel helms this locally renowned eatery that anchors Market Hall in the Rockridge neighborhood. The first-class dining room upstairs serves straightforward Italian cuisine; the menu changes daily, but might include house-made duck prosciutto, pan-seared swordfish, or spit-roasted leg of lamb. Downstairs, in the less pricey café, everything from a morning espresso to pizza to a full-blown Italian meal (at half the upstairs price) can be enjoyed at one of the small tables or at the bar. | Average main: $32 | 5655 College Ave., at Keith Ave., Rockridge | Oakland | 510/547–5356 | www.oliveto.com | No lunch weekends in restaurant.
Pizzaiolo.
$$ | PIZZA | Apparently no length of a wait can discourage locals who persevere to enjoy the legendary thin-crust, wood-fired pizza served up by Chez Panisse alum Charlie Hallowell in this rustic-chic dining room. Diners—mostly neighborhood hipsters but also young families and foodies of all ages—perch in wooden chairs with red-leather backs; weathered wood floors and brick walls peeking through the plaster create an always-been-here feel. Seasonal pizza options might include wild nettles and pecorino, or rapini and house-made sausage; don’t overlook nonpizza dishes such as wild steelhead salmon with fava greens, English peas, and Meyer-lemon butter. Except on Sunday, early risers get to skip the crowds and enjoy Blue Bottle Coffee and pastries from 8 until noon. | Average main: $20 | 5008 Telegraph Ave., at 51st St., Temescal | Oakland | 510/652–4888 | www.pizzaiolooakland.com | Closed Sun. No lunch.
Shakewell.
$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | Two veterans of the Top Chef TV series opened this stylish restaurant in the up-and-coming Lakeshore neighborhood, but hype aside, they’re serving up creative and memorable small Mediterranean-influenced dishes. Favorites include the local squid and ink bomba (a paellalike dish baked in a wood-burning oven) and braised pork shoulder with pickled green tomatoes. The name implies an emphasis on cocktails, and you can enjoy a well-crafted one at the popular bar; also be sure to save room for dessert. Hard surfaces plus a lively crowd means the volume can get too high for some. | Average main: $20 | 3407 Lakeshore Ave., near Mandana Blvd., Lakeshore | Oakland | 510/251–0329 | www.shakewelloakland.com | Reservations not accepted | Closed Mon. No lunch Tues.–Thurs.
Fodor’s Choice | Wood Tavern.
$$$ | AMERICAN | Expect a warm welcome and a lively atmosphere at this longtime Rockridge favorite, a neighborhood gem with superb food and refined service. Classic American fare includes standouts like the pork-belly appetizer, anything marrow, perfect day boat scallops, and one of the best burgers around. For dessert the house-made Nutella–chocolate chip ice cream knocks it out of the park. It’s wise to reserve well ahead here, but if you haven’t you might score a seat at the bar. | Average main: $26 | 6317 College Ave., near 63rd St., Rockridge | Oakland | 510/654–6607 | woodtavern.net | No lunch Sun.
Where to Stay
Best Western Plus Bayside Hotel.
$$ | HOTEL | Sandwiched between the serene and scenic Oakland Estuary on one side and train tracks and an eight-lane freeway on the other, this all-suites property has handsome accommodations with balconies or patios, many overlooking the water. The suites, though not large, have coffeemakers, refrigerators, microwaves, sitting areas, and good-size desks; bathrooms have oversize spa bathtubs and separate showers. A shuttle whisks guests to and from the Oakland airport, Jack London Square, and other popular neighborhoods. Guests here enjoy access to the swimming pool and hot tub at the Executive Inn, a sister property next door. Pros: attractive, budget-conscious choice; free parking; recently renovated; water views make city bustle seem far away. Cons: not near anything of interest; city-side rooms can be loud. | Rooms from: $179 | 1717 Embarcadero, off I–880, at 16th St. exit | Oakland | 510/356–2450 | www.baysidehoteloakland.com | 81 suites | Breakfast.
Executive Inn & Suites.
$ | HOTEL | This property is convenient to both the Oakland airport and downtown Oakland, and to make up for its removed location, the inn offers free shuttle service to the Oakland airport, BART stations, and Jack London Square. Rooms are clean and were recently stylishly renovated; each room has a microwave, a refrigerator, and Wi-Fi access. Splurge for a water view for a really pleasant stay. Pros: free parking; west-facing rooms overlook the Oakland Estuary; warm service. Cons: east-facing rooms look out onto the freeway and can be noisy; not close to anything. | Rooms from: $149 | 1755 Embarcadero, off I–880 at 16th St. exit | Oakland, California, United States | 510/536–6633, 800/346–6331 | www.executiveinnoakland.com | 143 rooms | Breakfast.
Oakland Marriott City Center.
$$$$ | HOTEL | A good choice downtown for business travelers—and not bad for leisure ones, either—the Marriott, conveniently located near the Old Oakland and Uptown neighborhoods, provides comprehensive services and amenities. Rooms are large, and the ones on the upper floors have views of downtown and beyond. The decor, heavy on beiges and other soft tones, is pleasing if not awe-inspiring, and the ergonomic work areas were thoughtfully designed. Pros: convenient location; ergonomically designed work areas; online discounts often available off-season and on weekends. Cons: low visual appeal; steep fee for Internet access. | Rooms from: $269 | 1001 Broadway, at 11th St., Downtown | Oakland | 510/451–4000 | www.marriott.com | 481 rooms, 8 suites | No meals.
Waterfront Hotel.
$$ | HOTEL | The only bayfront hotel in town, this thoroughly modern, pleasantly appointed Joie de Vivre property sits among the appealing restaurants (including the hotel’s own) of Jack London Square. Some rooms in the hotel’s five-story section overlook the concrete-laden square and have shared balconies; it’s worth an upgrade to a water-view room with a private balcony facing the water. Some rooms have fireplaces. Pros: great location; lovely views; dog-friendly. Cons: passing trains can be noisy on city side; parking is pricey; hotel is beginning to show its age. | Rooms from: $159 | 10 Washington St., Jack London Square | Oakland | 510/836–3800, 800/729–3638 | www.jdvhotels.com | 143 rooms | No meals.
Nightlife and Performing Arts
Artists have found relatively cheap rent and loft spaces in Oakland, giving rise to a cultural scene—visual arts, indie music, spoken word, film—that’s definitely buzzing, especially in Uptown (which is pretty much downtown). Trendy bars and clubs seem to pop up by the week—everything from artisan breweries to all-out retro dives—and the beer-garden renaissance has come to Oakland in a big way. Whether you’re an aficionado who likes to discuss the nose and mouthfeel of different brews or just someone who wants to enjoy a drink outside on a sunny day, you’ll find something to suit you. Oakland’s nightlife scene is less crowded and more intimate than what you’ll find in San Francisco. Music is just about everywhere, though the most popular venues are downtown.
Nightlife
Beer Revolution.
Hard-core beer geeks: with hundreds of bottled beers and 50 taps, Beer Revolution is for you. Tear yourself away from the beer lists and grab a table on the patio. | 464 3rd St., at Broadway, Jack London Square | Oakland | 510/452–2337 | www.beer-revolution.com.
Brotzeit Lokal.
If you want a water view with your brew, head to this spot east of Jack London Square and enjoy some wurst or Wiener schnitzel with your German, Belgian, or California beer. | 1000 Embarcadero, near 10th Ave., Jack London Square | Oakland | 510/645–1905 | brotzeitbiergarten.com | Closed Mon.
Fodor’s Choice | Café Van Kleef.
Dutch artist Peter Van Kleef’s candle-strewn, funky café-bar crackles with creative energy. Van Kleef has a lot to do with the convivial atmosphere; the garrulous owner loves sharing tales about his quirky, floor-to-ceiling collection of pop-culture mementos. The café has a consistently solid calendar of live music, heavy on the jazz side. The drinks are among the stiffest in town. | 1621 Telegraph Ave., between 16th and 17th Sts., Uptown | Oakland | 510/763–7711 | www.cafevankleef.com.
Fox Theater.
Willie Nelson, Counting Crows, Rebelution, and B.B. King have all played at this renovated Mediterranean Moorish–style stunner from 1928 that has good sight lines, a state-of-the-art sound system and acoustics, a bar, and other amenities. | 1807 Telegraph Ave., at 18th St., Uptown | Oakland | 510/548–3010 | www.thefoxoakland.com.
The Layover Music Bar and Lounge.
Bright, bold, and very hip, this hangout filled with recycled furniture is constantly evolving because everything is for sale, from the artwork to the pillows, rugs, and lamps. The busy bar serves up organic cocktails, and depending on the night, the entertainment might include comedy or live or DJ music. | 1517 Franklin St., near 15th St., Uptown | Oakland | 510/834–1517 | www.oaklandlayover.com.
Lost & Found.
The diversions on the welcoming patio here include ping-pong, Hula-Hoops, and cornhole. The beers are great, the solid menu focuses on internationally inspired small bites, and there’s a good selection of nonalcoholic drinks. | 2040 Telegraph Ave., at 21st St., Uptown | Oakland | 510/763–2040 | www.lostandfound510.com | Closed Mon.
Mua.
Cuisine, cocktails, and culture—Mua puts it all together in a bright and airy former garage. The chefs serve up beautifully crafted meals like beef bone marrow and garlic prawns; the bartenders shake up elegant cocktails; and a lively crowd enjoys cultural offerings that include poetry readings, art shows, and DJ music. | 2442a Webster St., between 23rd St. and Grand Ave., Uptown | Oakland | 510/238–1100 | www.muaoakland.com.
The Trappist.
Grand pillars, brick walls, soft lighting, and the buzz of conversation set a warm and mellow tone inside this Victorian space that’s been renovated to resemble a traditional Belgian pub. The setting is definitely a draw, but the real stars are the artisan beers: more than a hundred Belgian, Dutch, and North American ones. The light fare includes panini made with organic ingredients. | 460 8th St., at Broadway, Old Oakland | Oakland | 510/238–8900 | www.thetrappist.com.
Telegraph.
Hipsters hold court at Telegraph, where giant murals and bike wheel rims decorate the largely cement outdoor area, and great burgers pair with beers that change daily. | 2318 Telegraph Ave., at 23rd St., Uptown | Oakland | 510/444–8353 | telegraphoakland.com.
Fodor’s Choice | Yoshi’s.
Omar Sosa and Charlie Hunter are among the musicians who play at Yoshi’s, one of the area’s best jazz venues. Shows start at 8 pm and 10 pm except on Sunday, when they’re usually at 7 and 9. The cover runs from $20 to $60. | 510 Embarcadero St., between Washington and Clay Sts., Jack London Square | Oakland | 510/238–9200 | www.yoshis.com.
Performing Arts
California Shakespeare Theater.
The Bay Area’s largest outdoor theater event showcases three works by the Bard and one by another playwright. Performances take place east of Oakland in Orinda. | Bruns Amphitheater,100 California Shakespeare Theater Way | Orinda | From Oakland, take I–580 or Hwy. 13 to Hwy. 24 W toward Walnut Creek. Exit at Wilder Rd., and turn left | 510/548–9666 box office | www.calshakes.org | Late May–early Oct.
Sports and the Outdoors
Baseball
Oakland A’s.
Billy Beane of Moneyball fame is the general manager of the American League baseball team. Same-day tickets can usually be purchased at the O.co Coliseum box office (Gate D). To get to the game, take a BART train to the Coliseum station. | O.co Coliseum,7000 Coliseum Way, off I–880, north of Hegenberger Rd. | Oakland | 510/638–4900 | oakland.athletics.mlb.com.
Basketball
Golden State Warriors.
The NBA team plays basketball at Oracle Arena from late October into April. BART trains serve the arena; get off at the Coliseum station. Purchase single tickets through Ticketmaster (800/653–8000, www.ticketmaster.com). | Oracle Arena,7000 Coliseum Way, off I–880, north of Hegenberger Rd. | Oakland | 888/479–4667 tickets | www.nba.com/warriors.
Football
Oakland Raiders.
The National Football League’s brawling Oakland Raiders play at O.co Coliseum. Tickets are available through Ticketmaster. | O.co Coliseum,7000 Coliseum Way, off I–880, north of Hegenberger Rd. | Oakland | 510/864–5000 | www.raiders.com.
Shopping
Pop-up shops and stylish, locally focused stores are proliferating in Old Oakland and Uptown, and Temescal’s alleys are decidedly funky. The streets around Lake Merritt and Grand Lake have smaller, less fancy boutiques. College Avenue is great for upscale strolling, shopping, and people-watching.
Diesel.
Wandering bibliophiles collect armfuls of the latest fiction and nonfiction at this revered shop. The loftlike space, with its high ceilings and spare design, encourages contemplation, and on chilly days a fire burns in the hearth. Past participants in the excellent authors’ events have included Ian Rankin, Annie Leibovitz, Kareem Abdul-Jabbar, and Michael Moore. | 5433 College Ave., at Kales Ave., Rockridge | Oakland | 510/653–9965 | www.dieselbookstore.com.
Maison d’Etre.
Close to the Rockridge BART station, this store epitomizes the Rockridge neighborhood’s funky-chic shopping scene. Look for impulse buys like whimsical watches, imported fruit-tea blends, and funky slippers. | 5640 College Ave., at Keith Ave., Rockridge | Oakland | 510/658–2801 | maisondetre.com.
Fodor’s Choice | Oaklandish.
This is the place for Oaktown swag. What started out as a collective art project of local pride has become a celebrated brand around the Bay, and proceeds from hip Oaklandish brand T-shirts and accessories still go to support the group’s free events and programs. It’s good-looking stuff for a good cause. | 1444 Broadway, near 15th St., Uptown | Oakland | 510/251–9500 | oaklandish.com.