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Napa | Yountville | Oakville | Rutherford | St. Helena | Calistoga

With more than 500 wineries and many of the biggest brands in the business, the Napa Valley is the Wine Country’s star. With a population of about 79,000, Napa, the valley’s largest town, lures with its cultural attractions and (relatively) reasonably priced accommodations. A few miles farther north, compact Yountville is densely packed with top-notch restaurants and hotels, and Rutherford and Oakville are renowned for their Cabernet Sauvignon–friendly soils. Beyond them, St. Helena teems with elegant boutiques and restaurants, and casual Calistoga, known for spas and hot springs, has the feel of an Old West frontier town.

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Napa

46 miles northeast of San Francisco.

Visitors who glimpse Napa’s malls and big-box stores from Highway 29 often speed past the town on the way to the more seductive Yountville or St. Helena. But Napa has evolved into a destination in its own right. After spending many years as a blue-collar burg detached from the Wine Country scene, Napa has reshaped its image. A walkway that follows the Napa River has made downtown more pedestrian-friendly, and each year high-profile new restaurants pop up. The nightlife options are arguably the valley’s best, shopping is chic and varied, and the Oxbow Public Market, a complex of high-end food purveyors, is popular with locals and tourists. An magnitude 6.0 earthquake in August 2014 briefly slowed Napa’s momentum, but the town bounced back admirably and you’ll see little evidence of the damage (an estimated $380 million valley-wide) the temblor caused.

Getting Here and Around

Downtown Napa lies a mile east of Highway 29—take the 1st Street exit and follow the signs. Ample parking, much of it free for the first three hours and some for the entire day, is available on or near Main Street. Several VINE buses serve downtown and beyond.

Exploring

Top Attractions

Fodor’s Choice | Artesa Vineyards & Winery.
From a distance the modern, minimalist architecture of Artesa blends harmoniously with the surrounding Carneros landscape, but up close its pools, fountains, and the large outdoor sculptures by resident artist Gordon Huether of Napa make a vivid impression. So, too, do the wines crafted by Mark Beringer, who focuses on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir but also produces Cabernet Sauvignon and other limited-release wines such as Albariño and Tempranillo. You can taste wines by themselves or paired with chocolate ($50), cheese ($60), and tapas ($60). TIP The main tour, conducted daily, explores wine making and the winery. A Friday-only tour covers the art, and from June through October there’s a vineyard tour. | 1345 Henry Rd., off Old Sonoma Rd. and Dealy La. | Napa | 707/224–1668 | www.artesawinery.com | Tastings $20–$60, tours $30–$45 | Daily 10–5, winery tour daily at 11 and 2, art tour Fri. at 10:30; reservations required for some tastings and tours.

Fodor’s Choice | di Rosa.
About 2,000 works from the 1960s to the present by Northern California artists are displayed on this 217-acre art property. They can be found not only in galleries and in the former residence of its late founder, Rene di Rosa, but also on every lawn, in every courtyard, and even on the lake. Some works were commissioned especially for di Rosa, among them Paul Kos’s meditative Chartres Bleu, a video installation in a chapel-like setting that replicates a stained-glass window from the cathedral in Chartres, France. TIP You can view the current temporary exhibition and a few permanent works at the Gatehouse Gallery, but to experience the breadth of this incomparable collection you’ll need to book a tour. | 5200 Sonoma Hwy./Hwy. 121 | Napa | 707/226–5991 | www.dirosaart.org | Gatehouse Gallery $5, tours $12–$15 | Wed.–Sun. 10–4.

Fodor’s Choice | Domaine Carneros.
A visit to this majestic château is an opulent way to enjoy the Carneros District—especially in fine weather, when the vineyard views are spectacular. The château was modeled after an 18th-century French mansion owned by the Taittinger family. Carved into the hillside beneath the winery, the cellars produce delicate sparkling wines reminiscent of those made by Taittinger, using only Los Carneros AVA grapes. The winery sells full glasses, flights, and bottles of its wines, which also include Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and other still wines. Enjoy them all with cheese and charcuterie plates, caviar, or smoked salmon. Seating is in the Louis XV–inspired salon or on the terrace overlooking the vines. The tour here covers traditional methods of making sparkling wines. | 1240 Duhig Rd., at Hwy. 121 | Napa | 707/257–0101, 800/716–2788 | www.domainecarneros.com | Tastings $10–$40, tour $40 | Daily 10–5:45; tour daily at 11, 1, and 3.

Fodor’s Choice | The Hess Collection.
About 9 miles northwest of Napa, up a winding road ascending Mt. Veeder, this winery is a delightful discovery. The limestone structure, rustic from the outside but modern and airy within, contains Swiss owner Donald Hess’s world-class art collection, including large-scale works by contemporary artists such as Andy Goldsworthy, Anselm Kiefer, and Robert Rauschenberg. Cabernet Sauvignon is a major strength, and the 19 Block Cuvée, Mount Veeder, a Cabernet blend, shows off the Malbec and other estate varietals. TIP Food-wine pairings include one with chocolates that go well with the Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon. | 4411 Redwood Rd., west off Hwy. 29 at Trancas St./Redwood Rd. exit | Napa | 707/255–1144 | www.hesscollection.com | Art gallery free, tastings $20–$85 | Daily 10–5:30; guided tours daily 10:30–3:30.

Fodor’s Choice | Oxbow Public Market.
The market’s two dozen shops, wine bars, and artisanal food producers provide an introduction to Napa Valley’s wealth of foods and wines. Swoon over decadent charcuterie at the Fatted Calf, slurp bivalves at Hog Island Oyster Company, or chow down on tacos with homemade tortillas at C Casa. Afterward, sip wine at Ca’ Momi Enoteca or sample the barrel-aged cocktails and handcrafted vodka of the Napa Valley Distillery. The owner of C Casa also runs Cate & Co., a bakeshop that makes going gluten-free an absolute delight. TIP Locals head to Model Bakery around 3 pm for hot-from-the-oven “late bake” bread. | 610 and 644 1st St., at McKinstry St. | Napa | www.oxbowpublicmarket.com | Free | Weekdays 9–9, weekends 10–9; merchants hrs vary.

Fodor’s Choice | St. Clair Brown Winery.
Tastings at this women-run “urban winery” a few blocks north of downtown take place in an intimate, light-filled greenhouse or the colorful culinary garden outside. Winemaker Elaine St. Clair, well regarded for her stints at Domaine Carneros and Black Stallion, produces elegant wines—crisp yet complex whites and smooth, French-style reds among whose stars are the Cabernet Sauvignon and a Syrah from grapes grown in the Coombsville appellation. The wines are paired with addictive appetizers that include almonds roasted with rosemary, cumin, and Meyer lemon juice. TIP You can sip single wines by the glass or half glass, or opt for the four-wine sampler. | 816 Vallejo St., off Soscol Ave. | Napa | 707/255–5591 | www.stclairbrownwinery.com | Tastings $4–$20 | Daily 11–8.

Worth Noting

Etude Wines.
You’re apt to see or hear hawks, egrets, Canada geese, and other wildlife on the grounds of Etude, known for its sophisticated Pinot Noirs. Though the winery and its light-filled tasting room are in Napa County, the grapes for its flagship Carneros Estate Pinot Noir come from the Sonoma portion of Los Carneros, as do the ones for the rarer Heirloom Carneros Pinot Noir. Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, and other wines made by Jon Priest are poured daily in the tasting room. On Friday and the weekend, Pinot Noirs from California, Oregon, and New Zealand are compared at seated The Study of Pinot Noir seminars ($45). TIP Single-vineyard Napa Valley Cabernets are another Etude specialty; the Rutherford and Oakville ones are particularly good. | 1250 Cuttings Wharf Rd., 1 mile south of Hwy. 121 | Napa | 877/586–9361 | www.etudewines.com | Tastings $15–$45 | Daily 10–4:30; Study of Pinot Noir tastings Fri.–Sun. at 10, 1, and 3 by appointment.

Napa Valley Wine Train.
Several century-old restored Pullman railroad cars and a two-story 1952 Vista Dome car with a curved glass roof travel a leisurely, scenic route between Napa and St. Helena. All trips include a well-made lunch or dinner; for all lunches and Saturday dinner you can combine your trip with a winery tour. Murder-mystery plays and dinners with vintners and winemakers are among the regularly scheduled special events. TIP It’s best to make this trip during the day, when you can enjoy the vineyard views. | 1275 McKinstry St., off 1st St. | Napa | 707/253–2111, 800/427–4124 | www.winetrain.com | From $124 | Lunch: Jan. and Feb., Fri.–Sun. 11:30; Mar.–Dec., daily 11:30. Dinner: May–Sept., Fri.–Sun. 6:30; Oct., Fri. and Sat. 6:30; Nov.–Mar., Sat. 6:30; Apr., Fri. and Sat. 6:30.

Where to Eat

Fodor’s Choice | The Boon Fly Café.
$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | This small spot melds rural charm with industrial chic. Outside, swings occupy the porch of a modern red barn; inside, things get sleek with high ceilings and galvanized-steel tabletops. The menu of three squares a day updates American classics such as fried chicken (free-range in this case), burgers (but with Kobe beef), and shrimp and grits. The flatbreads, including a super-creamy smoked salmon one made with fromage blanc, Parmesan, and lemon crème fraîche, are worth a try. Chicken and waffles and other daily specials draw locals, too, and there’s a varied selection of wines by the glass. TIP Open all day, The Boon Fly makes a convenient mid-morning or late-afternoon stop. | Average main: $22 | Carneros Inn,4048 Sonoma Hwy. | Napa | 707/299–4870 | www.boonflycafe.com.

Fodor’s Choice | Bounty Hunter Wine Bar & Smokin’ BBQ.
$$$ | AMERICAN | A triple threat, Bounty Hunter is a wine store, wine bar, and restaurant in one. You can stop by for just a glass—about 40 choices are available in both 2- and 5-ounce pours—or a bottle, but it’s best to come with an appetite. Every dish on the small menu is a standout, including the pulled-pork and beef brisket sandwiches served with three types of barbecue sauce, the signature beer-can chicken (only Tecate will do), and meltingly tender St. Louis–style ribs. The space is whimsically rustic, with stuffed game trophies mounted on the wall and leather saddles standing in for seats at a couple of tables. | Average main: $26 | 975 1st St., near Main St. | Napa | 707/226–3976 | www.bountyhunterwinebar.com | Reservations not accepted.

Fodor’s Choice | Cole’s Chop House.
$$$$ | STEAKHOUSE | When only a thick, perfect steak will do, popular Cole’s is the best choice in town. The prime steaks—New York and porterhouse—are dry-aged by Allen Brothers of Chicago, purveyors to America’s top steak houses. New Zealand lamb chops are the house’s non-beef favorite, and seasonal additions might include veal chops. Inside an 1886 stone building, Chops hews to tradition with the starters and sides. Expect oysters Rockefeller, creamed spinach, grilled asparagus with hollandaise, and other standbys, all prepared with finesse. The wine list is borderline epic, with the best of the Napa Valley amply represented. | Average main: $38 | 1122 Main St., at Pearl St. | Napa | 707/224–6328 | www.coleschophouse.com | Reservations essential | No lunch.

Fodor’s Choice | La Toque.
$$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Chef Ken Frank’s La Toque is the complete package: his imaginative Modern American cuisine is served in an elegant dining space, complemented by an astutely assembled wine lineup that in 2014 earned a coveted Wine Spectator Grand Award, bestowed on only 74 establishments worldwide. Built around seasonal local ingredients, the menu changes frequently, but Rosti potato with Israeli Russian Osetra caviar routinely appears as a starter, and Moroccan-spiced Liberty Farm duck breast and Wagyu beef served with Frank’s variation on poutine are oft-seen entrées. Four-course ($80) and five-course ($98) tasting menus are offered, but for a memorable occasion consider letting the chef and sommelier surprise you via the chef’s table tasting menu ($195, $95 additional for wine pairings). | Average main: $80 | Westin Verasa Napa,1314 McKinstry St., off Soscol Ave. | Napa | 707/257–5157 | www.latoque.com | No lunch.

Morimoto Napa.
$$$$ | JAPANESE | Iron Chef star Masuharu Morimoto is the big name behind this downtown Napa hot spot. Organic materials such as twisting grapevines above the bar and rough-hewn wooden tables seem simultaneously earthy and modern, creating a fitting setting for the gorgeously plated Japanese fare, from sashimi served with grated fresh wasabi to elaborate concoctions that include sea-urchin carbonara, made with udon noodles. Everything’s delightfully overdone, right down to the desserts. TIP For the full experience, leave the choice up to the chef and opt for the omakase menu ($120–$160). | Average main: $44 | 610 Main St., at 5th St. | Napa | 707/252–1600 | www.morimotonapa.com.

Fodor’s Choice | Torc.
$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Torc means “wild boar” in an early Celtic dialect, and chef Sean O’Toole occasionally incorporates his restaurant’s namesake beast into dishes at his eclectic downtown restaurant. Bolognese sauce, for example, might include ground wild boar, tomato, lime, and cocoa. O’Toole has helmed kitchens at top New York City, San Francisco, and Yountville establishments. Torc is the first restaurant he’s owned, and he crafts meals with style and precision that are reflected in the gracious service and classy, contemporary decor. TIP The Bengali sweet potato–pakora appetizer, which comes with a dreamy-creamy yogurt-truffle dip, has been a hit since day one. | Average main: $25 | 1140 Main St., at Pearl St. | Napa | 707/252–3292 | www.torcnapa.com | No lunch weekdays.

Fodor’s Choice | ZuZu.
$$$ | SPANISH | The focus at festive ZuZu is on tapas, paella, and other Spanish favorites. Diners down cava (Spanish sparkling wine) or sangria with dishes that might include white anchovies with boiled egg and rémoulade on grilled bread. Locals revere the paella, made with Spanish Bomba rice. Latin jazz on the stereo helps make this place a popular spot for get-togethers. In fall 2014, ZuZu’s owners opened La Taberna, three doors south at 815 Main Street, a bar for pintxos (small bites) and cocktails. The signature dish: suckling pig, which goes well with the beers, wines, and other libations. | Average main: $29 | 829 Main St., near 3rd St. | Napa | 707/224–8555 | www.zuzunapa.com | Reservations not accepted | No lunch weekends.

Where to Stay

Fodor’s Choice | Andaz Napa.
$$$ | HOTEL | Part of the Hyatt family, this boutique hotel with an urban-hip vibe has luxurious rooms with flat-screen TVs, laptop-size safes, and white-marble bathrooms stocked with high-quality bath products. Some rooms have two-sided glass-enclosed fireplaces. From spring into fall the second-floor Mercantile Terrace is a stylishly casual outdoor spot to sip wine or just hang out. Pros: proximity to downtown restaurants, theaters, and tasting rooms; access to modern fitness center; complimentary beverage upon arrival; complimentary snacks and nonalcoholic beverages in rooms. Cons: parking can be a challenge on weekends; unremarkable views from some rooms. | Rooms from: $309 | 1450 1st St. | Napa | 707/687–1234 | andaznapa.com | 137 rooms, 4 suites | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Carneros Inn.
$$$$ | RESORT | Freestanding board-and-batten cottages with rocking chairs on each porch are simultaneously rustic and chic at this luxurious property. Natural light floods the cottages, whose French doors lead to private gardens, some with fire pits and outdoor soaking tubs. Wood-burning fireplaces, ethereal beds topped with Italian linens and pristine down comforters, and spacious bathrooms with heated slate floors and large indoor-outdoor showers may make it difficult to summon the will to head to the infinity swimming pool and hot tub. The Hilltop dining room, with views of neighboring vineyards, is open to guests only for breakfast and lunch from Friday through Sunday, but The Boon Fly Café and FARM, the public restaurants, are popular with visitors throughout the Wine Country. Pros: cottages have lots of privacy; beautiful views from hilltop pool and hot tub; heaters on private patios; excellent Boon Fly Café is open all day. Cons: a long drive to destinations up-valley; smallish rooms with limited seating options. | Rooms from: $600 | 4048 Sonoma Hwy./Hwy. 121 | Napa | 707/299–4900, 888/400–9000 | www.thecarnerosinn.com | 76 cottages, 10 suites | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Inn on Randolph.
$$ | B&B/INN | A few calm blocks from the downtown action, the restored Inn on Randolph is a sophisticated haven celebrated for its gluten-free breakfasts and snacks. Well-placed splashes of color jazz up the earth tones of the plush accommodations—five rooms in the main Victorian-era structure and five historic cottages, some with private gardens. Pros: quiet; gourmet breakfasts; sophisticated decor; romantic setting. Cons: a bit of a walk from downtown. | Rooms from: $285 | 411 Randolph St. | Napa | 707/257–2886 | www.innonrandolph.com | 5 rooms, 5 cottages | Breakfast.

Napa River Inn.
$$ | B&B/INN | Part of a complex of restaurants, shops, a nightclub, and a spa, this waterfront inn is within easy walking distance of downtown hot spots. Guest rooms are in three structures. Rooms in the 1884 Hatt Building, done up in Victorian style, are arguably the most romantic, with deep-red walls, original architectural details like maple floors, and old-fashioned slipper tubs. Brighter colors dominate in the rooms of the Plaza and Embarcadero buildings; many of the rooms have river views. Baked goods from a neighboring bakery are delivered to your door for breakfast. Pros: wide range of room sizes and prices; near downtown action; pet friendly. Cons: river views could be more scenic; some rooms get noise from nearby restaurants. | Rooms from: $249 | 500 Main St. | Napa | 707/251–8500, 877/251–8500 | www.napariverinn.com | 65 rooms, 1 suite | Breakfast.

Fodor’s Choice | Senza Hotel.
$$$ | HOTEL | Exterior fountains, gallery-quality outdoor sculptures, and decorative rows of grapevines signal the Wine Country–chic aspirations of this boutique hotel operated by the owners of Hall St. Helena winery. The five-building complex, just off Highway 29 near the Oak Knoll District, is done in soothing shades of gray and brown, with haute fabrics, finishes, fixtures, and furniture throughout. Eighteen spacious rooms in two new buildings have private balconies or patios, and bathrooms with deep soaking tubs and heated floors; all rooms have large flat-screen TVs and fireplaces. The self-serve continental breakfast each morning includes pastries from Bouchon Bakery in Yountville. Pros: high-style fixtures; fireplaces in all rooms; Wine Country–chic atmosphere. Cons: just off highway; little of interest within walking distance; some bathrooms have no tub. | Rooms from: $369 | 4066 Howard La. | Napa | 707/253–0337 | www.senzahotel.com | 41 rooms | Breakfast.

Nightlife and Performing Arts

Fodor’s Choice | 1313 Main.
Cool, sexy 1313 Main attracts a youngish crowd for top-drawer spirits and sparkling and still wines. The on-site LuLu’s Kitchen serves bar food—past favorites have included coq au vin wings and corn and shiso fritters—and wild salmon, steak, and other entrées. | 1313 Main St., at Clinton St. | Napa | 707/258–1313 | www.1313main.com.

City Winery Napa.
A makeover transformed the 1879 Napa Valley Opera House into a combination wine bar, restaurant, and live-music venue that features top singer-songwriters and small acts. Many of the three dozen wines on tap are exclusive to the club from prestigious area wineries. | 1030 Main St., near 1st St. | Napa | 707/260–1600 | www.citywinery.com/napa.

Uptown Theatre.
This top-notch live-music venue, a former movie house, attracts Ziggy Marley, Ani DiFranco, Napa Valley resident and winery owner Boz Scaggs, and other performers. | 1350 3rd St., at Franklin St. | Napa | 707/259–0123 | www.uptowntheatrenapa.com.

Yountville

9 miles north of the town of Napa.

These days Yountville is something like Disneyland for food lovers. You could stay here for a week and not exhaust all the options—several of them owned by The French Laundry’s Thomas Keller—and the tiny town is full of small inns and high-end hotels that cater to those who prefer to walk (not drive) after an extravagant meal. It’s also well located for excursions to many big-name Napa wineries, especially those in the Stags Leap District, from which big, bold Cabernet Sauvignons helped make the Napa Valley’s wine-making reputation.

Getting Here and Around

Downtown Yountville sits just off Highway 29. Approaching from the south take the Yountville exit—from the north take Madison—and proceed to Washington Street, home to the major shops and restaurants. Yountville Cross Road connects downtown to the Silverado Trail, along which many noted wineries do business. The free Yountville Trolley serves the town daily from 10 am to 7 pm (on-call service until 11 except on Sunday).

Contact
Yountville Trolley. | Yountville | 707/944–1234 10 am–7 pm, 707/312–1509 7 pm–11 pm | www.ridethevine.com/yountville-trolley.

Exploring

Top Attractions

Fodor’s Choice | Cliff Lede Vineyards.
Inspired by his passion for classic rock, owner and construction magnate Cliff Lede named his Stags Leap vineyard blocks after hits by the Grateful Dead and other bands, but the vibe at his efficient, high-tech winery is anything but laid-back. It’s worth taking the estate tour to learn about the agricultural science that informs vineyard management here, and to see the production facility in action. Architect Howard Backen designed the winery and its tasting room, where Lede’s Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignons, and other wines, along with some from sister winery Fel, which produces much-lauded Anderson Valley Pinot Noirs, are poured. TIP Walk-ins are welcome at the tasting bar, but appointments are required for the veranda outside and a nearby gallery that often displays rock-related art. | 1473 Yountville Cross Rd., off Silverado Trail | Yountville | 707/944–8642 | cliffledevineyards.com | Tastings $25–$45; estate tour and tasting $75 | Daily 10–4.

Domaine Chandon.
On a knoll shaded by ancient oak trees, this French-owned maker of sparkling wines claims one of Yountville’s prime pieces of real estate. Chandon is best known for bubblies, but the still wines—Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, and Pinot Noir—are also worth a try. You can sip by the flight or the glass at the bar or begin there and sit at tables in the lounge and return to the bar as needed; in good weather, tables are set up outside. Tours, which cover Chandon’s French and California histories and the basics of making sparkling wines, end with a seated tasting. For the complete experience, order a cheese board or other hors d’oeuvres on the lounge menu. | 1 California Dr., off Hwy. 29 | Yountville | 707/204–7530, 888/242–6366 | www.chandon.com | Tastings $10–$22, tours $40 | Daily 10–5; tour times vary.

Fodor’s Choice | Ma(i)sonry Napa Valley.
An art-and-design gallery that also pours the wines of two dozen limited-production wineries, Ma(i)sonry occupies an atmospheric stone manor house constructed in 1904. Tasting flights can be sampled in fair weather in the beautiful garden, in a private nook, or at the communal redwood table, and in any weather indoors among the contemporary artworks and well-chosen objets—which might include 17th-century furnishings, industrial lamps, or slabs of petrified wood. TIP Walk-ins are welcome space permitting, but during summer, at harvesttime, and on weekends and holidays it’s best to book in advance. | 6711 Washington St., at Pedroni St. | Yountville | 707/944–0889 | www.maisonry.com | Tasting $15–$35 | Sun.–Thurs. daily 10–6, Fri. and Sat. daily 10–7; check for later hrs in summer and early fall.

Worth Noting

Fodor’s Choice | Robert Sinskey Vineyards.
Although the winery produces a well-regarded Stags Leap Cabernet Sauvignon, two supple red blends called Marcien and POV, and white wines, Sinskey is best known for its intense, brambly Carneros District Pinot Noirs. All the grapes are grown in organic, certified biodynamic vineyards. The influence of Robert’s wife, Maria Helm Sinskey—a chef and cookbook author and the winery’s culinary director—is evident during the tastings, which are accompanied by a few bites of food with each wine. TIP The Perfect Circle Tour ($75) takes in the winery’s gardens and ends with a seated pairing of food and wine. | 6320 Silverado Trail, at Yountville Cross Rd. | Napa | 707/944–9090 | www.robertsinskey.com | Tasting $25, tour $75 | Daily 10–4:30; tours by appointment weekdays at 11, weekends at 1.

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars.
A 1973 Stag’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon put this winery and the Napa Valley on the enological map by placing first in the famous Paris tasting of 1976. The grapes for that wine came from a vineyard visible from the new stone-and-glass Fay Outlook & Visitor Center, which opened in 2014. The tasting room has broad views of a second fabled Cabernet vineyard (Fay) and the promontory that gives both the winery and the Stags Leap District AVA their names. TIP A $40 tasting includes the top-of-the-line estate-grown Cabernets, which sell for more than $100; a $25 tasting of more modestly priced wines is also available. | 5766 Silverado Trail, at Wappo Hill Rd. | Napa | 707/944–2020, 866/422–7523 | www.cask23.com | Tastings $25–$40, tour with food and wine pairing $95 | Daily 10–4:30; tours by appointment.

Where to Eat

Fodor’s Choice | Ad Hoc.
$$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | At this casual spot, superstar chef Thomas Keller offers a single, fixed-price menu ($52) nightly, with a small lineup of decadent brunch items served on Sunday. The dinner selection might include braised beef short ribs and creamy polenta, or a delicate panna cotta with a citrus glaze. The dining room is warmly low-key, with zinc-top tables, wine served in tumblers, and rock and jazz on the stereo. Call a day ahead to find out the next day’s menu. TIP From Thursday through Saturday, except in winter, you can pick up a boxed lunch to go—the buttermilk fried chicken one is delicious—at the on-site and aptly named Addendum. | Average main: $52 | 6476 Washington St., at Oak Circle | Yountville | 707/944–2487 | www.adhocrestaurant.com | Reservations essential | No lunch Mon.–Sat. No dinner Tues. and Wed.

Fodor’s Choice | Bistro Jeanty.
$$$ | FRENCH | French classics and obscure delicacies tickle patrons’ palates at chef Philippe Jeanty’s genteel country bistro. Jeanty prepares the greatest hits—escargots, cassoulet, daube de boeuf (beef stewed in red wine)—with the utmost precision and turns out pike dumplings and lamb tongue with equal élan. Regulars often start with the extraordinary, rich tomato soup in a flaky puff pastry before proceeding to sole meunière, slow-roasted pork shoulder, or coq au vin (always choosing the simple, suggested side: thin egg noodles cooked with just the right amount of butter and salt). Chocolate pot de crème, warm apple tart tartin, and other authentic desserts complete the French sojourn. | Average main: $27 | 6510 Washington St., at Mulberry St. | Yountville | 707/944–0103 | www.bistrojeanty.com.

Bottega.
$$$ | ITALIAN | The food at chef Michael Chiarello’s trattoria is simultaneously soulful and inventive, transforming local ingredients into regional Italian dishes with a twist. The antipasti shine: you can order grilled short-rib meatballs, house-made charcuterie, or incredibly fresh fish. Potato gnocchi might be served with pumpkin fonduta (Italian-style fondue) and roasted root vegetables, and hearty main courses such as a grilled acorn-fed pork shoulder loin with a honey-mustard glaze might be accompanied by cinnamon stewed plums and crispy black kale. The vibe is festive, with exposed-brick walls and an open kitchen, but service is spot-on, and the wine list includes interesting choices from Italy and California. | Average main: $26 | V Marketplace,6525 Washington St., near Mulberry St. | Yountville | 707/945–1050 | www.botteganapavalley.com | No lunch Mon.

Fodor’s Choice | Bouchon.
$$$ | FRENCH | The team that created The French Laundry is also behind this place, where everything—the lively and crowded zinc-topped bar, the elbow-to-elbow seating, the traditional French onion soup—could have come straight from a Parisian bistro. Roast chicken with sautéed chicken livers and button mushrooms, and steamed mussels served with crispy, addictive frites (french fries) are among the dishes served. TIP The adjacent Bouchon Bakery sells marvelous macaroons (meringue cookies) in many flavors, along with brownies, pastries, and other baked goods. | Average main: $27 | 6534 Washington St., near Humboldt St. | Yountville | 707/944–8037 | www.bouchonbistro.com | Reservations essential.

Fodor’s Choice | Ciccio.
$$ | MODERN ITALIAN | High-profile French and modern-American establishments may dominate the Yountville landscape, but recent arrival Ciccio instantly endeared itself with locals and visitors seeking inventive, reasonably priced—in this case, modern Italian—cuisine. Inside a remodeled former grocery store that retains a down-home feel, executive chef Polly Lappetito, formerly of the Culinary Institute of America, turns out pizzas and entrées, some of whose vegetables and herbs come from the garden of the owners, Frank and Karen Altamura. Seasonal growing cycles dictate the ever-changing menu; Tuscan kale and white-bean soup, wood-fired sardines with salsa verde, and a mushroom, Taleggio, and crispy-sage pizza are among the recent offerings. Frank and Karen own Altamura Vineyards, whose wines are featured here, but their Napa Valley neighbors are also represented, and there’s a Negroni cocktail bar. | Average main: $19 | 6770 Washington St., at Madison St. | Yountville | 707/945–1000 | www.ciccionapavalley.com | Reservations not accepted | Closed Mon. and Tues. No lunch.

Fodor’s Choice | The French Laundry.
$$$$ | AMERICAN | An old stone building laced with ivy houses the most acclaimed restaurant in the Napa Valley—and, indeed, one of the most highly regarded in the country. The two nine-course prix-fixe menus (both $295), one of which highlights vegetables, vary, but “oysters and pearls,” a silky dish of pearl tapioca with oysters and white sturgeon caviar, is a signature starter. Some courses rely on luxe ingredients like calotte (cap of the rib eye), while others take humble foods such as fava beans and elevate them to art. Many courses also offer the option of “supplements”—sea urchin, for instance, or black truffles. TIP Reservations are hard-won here; to get one call two months ahead to the day at 10 am, on the dot. | Average main: $295 | 6640 Washington St., at Creek St. | Yountville | 707/944–2380 | www.frenchlaundry.com | Reservations essential | Jacket required | No lunch Mon.–Thurs.

Mustards Grill.
$$$ | AMERICAN | Cindy Pawlcyn’s Mustards fills day and night with fans of her hearty cuisine. The menu mixes updated renditions of traditional American dishes (what Pawlcyn dubs “deluxe truck stop classics”)—among them barbecued baby back pork ribs and a lemon-lime tart piled high with browned meringue—with more fanciful choices such as sweet corn tamales with tomatillo-avocado salsa and wild mushrooms. A black-and-white marble tile floor and upbeat artworks keep the mood jolly. | Average main: $27 | 7399 St. Helena Hwy./Hwy. 29, 1 mile north of Yountville | Napa | 707/944–2424 | www.mustardsgrill.com.

Fodor’s Choice | Redd.
$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | The minimalist dining room here seems a fitting setting for chef Richard Reddington’s up-to-date menu. The culinary influences include California, Mexico, Europe, and Asia, but the food always feels modern and never fussy. The glazed pork belly with apple puree, set amid a pool of soy caramel, is a prime example of the East-meets-West style. The seafood preparations—among them petrale sole, clams, and chorizo poached in a saffron-curry broth—are deft variations on the original dishes. For the full experience, consider the five-course tasting menu ($80 per person, $125 with wine pairing). TIP For a quick bite, order small plates and a cocktail and sit at the bar. | Average main: $30 | 6480 Washington St., at Oak Circle | Yountville | 707/944–2222 | www.reddnapavalley.com | Reservations essential.

Redd Wood.
$$ | ITALIAN | Chef Richard Reddington’s casual restaurant specializes in thin-crust wood-fired pizzas and contemporary variations on rustic Italian classics. The nonchalance of the industrial decor mirrors the service, which is less officious than elsewhere in town, and the cuisine itself. A dish such as glazed beef short ribs, for instance, might seem like yet another fancy take on a down-home favorite until you realize how cleverly the sweetness of the glaze plays off the creamy polenta and the piquant splash of salsa verde. Redd Wood does for Italian comfort food what nearby Mustards Grill does for the American version: it spruces it up but retains its innate pleasures. | Average main: $22 | North Block Hotel,6755 Washington St., at Madison St. | Yountville | 707/299–5030 | www.redd-wood.com.

Where to Stay

Fodor’s Choice | Bardessono.
$$$$ | RESORT | Although Bardessono bills itself as the “greenest luxury hotel in America,” there’s nothing spartan about its accommodations; arranged around four landscaped courtyards, the rooms have luxurious organic bedding, gas fireplaces, and huge bathrooms with walnut floors. About half the rooms have steam capability and outdoor showers. The rooms come equipped with the high-tech touches you’d expect—speakers for your iPhone, flat-screen TVs, and fancy spa tubs—and a few you wouldn’t, such as motion sensors that detect when you’re gone and adjust the blinds for energy efficiency. Service is smooth, from the valet who takes your car to the folks who staff the 75-foot-long rooftop lap pool, serving food and drinks to those lounging in the cabanas. At the hotel’s restaurant, Lucy, chef Victor Scargle uses mostly local ingredients (some of them grown in the hotel’s own garden) to craft his menu. Pros: large rooftop lap pool; exciting restaurant; excellent spa, with in-room treatments available; polished service. Cons: expensive; limited view from some rooms. | Rooms from: $650 | 6526 Yount St. | Yountville | 707/204–6000 | www.bardessono.com | 56 rooms, 6 suites | No meals.

Lavender Inn.
$$ | B&B/INN | On a quiet side street around the corner from The French Laundry restaurant, the Lavender Inn feels at once secluded and centrally located. The property, part of the Four Sisters Inns group, bills itself as a French country inn, and while you may not feel transported to Provence or Bordeaux, the palette of soft, rich yellows and the rustic furnishings provide sufficiently Gallic echoes. Two rooms are in the historic main house—the upstairs room is amazingly spacious, and the downstairs one is smaller but has a private, shielded outdoor hot tub—and there are six courtyard rooms, two of which have jetted tubs on their patios. In 2014 an old barn on the property was converted into a loft suite. lOn many evenings, winery representatives pour complimentary wines in the main house’s sitting room. Pros: reasonable rates for Yountville; in residential area but close to restaurants and shops; friendly staff. Cons: hard to book in high season; lacks amenities of larger properties. | Rooms from: $275 | 2020 Webber St. | Yountville | 707/944–1388, 800/533–4140 | www.lavendernapa.com | 9 rooms | Breakfast.

Napa Valley Lodge.
$$$ | HOTEL | Clean rooms in a convenient setting draw travelers willing to pay more than at comparable lodgings in the city of Napa to be within walking distance of Yountville’s tasting rooms, restaurants, and shops. The yellow exterior, Mediterranean-style roof, and vineyards that flank the property on two sides lend this motel-style property a touch of Tuscan grandeur, and the pool and hot tub are large and well maintained. (A fire pit keeps guests toasty on chilly nights.) The rooms, done in muted yellows and beiges and furnished with Keurig coffeemakers, are in twin two-story buildings; there’s no elevator to the upper floors, so if this is an issue ask for a ground-floor one. Some rooms have balconies or patios. A filling continental buffet breakfast is laid out each morning. Pros: clean rooms; helpful staff; filling continental breakfast; large pool area; cookies, tea, and coffee in lobby. Cons: no elevator; lacks amenities of other Yountville properties. | Rooms from: $340 | 2230 Madison St. | Yountville | 707/944–2468, 888/944–3545 | www.napavalleylodge.com | 54 rooms, 1 suite | Breakfast.

North Block Hotel.
$$$$ | HOTEL | With a chic Tuscan style, this 20-room hotel has dark-wood furniture and soothing decor in brown and sage. Rooms are clustered around a courtyard, which is warmed by a fireplace when the weather demands it. Uncommonly spacious bathrooms with large tubs and separate showers, warmed by radiant floor heating, invite lingering in the fluffy robes and slippers. The many luxurious treatments offered in the small spa are also available in the privacy of your room, as is breakfast, which is included in the rates. The on-site restaurant, Redd Wood, serves antipasti and thin-crust pizzas. Pros: extremely comfortable beds; attentive service; room service by Redd Wood restaurant. Cons: outdoor areas get some traffic noise. | Rooms from: $420 | 6757 Washington St. | Yountville | 707/944–8080 | northblockhotel.com | 20 rooms | No meals.

Sports and the Outdoors

Ballooning

Napa Valley Aloft.
Between 8 and 12 passengers soar over the Napa Valley in balloons that launch from downtown Yountville. The rates include preflight refreshments and a huge breakfast. | V Marketplace,6525 Washington St., near Mulberry St. | Yountville | 707/944–4400, 855/944–4408 | www.nvaloft.com | From $220.

Biking

Fodor’s Choice | Napa Valley Bike Tours.
With dozens of wineries within 5 miles, this shop makes a fine starting point for vineyard and wine-tasting excursions. The outfit also rents bikes. | 6500 Washington St., at Mulberry St. | Yountville | 707/944–2953 | www.napavalleybiketours.com | From $99.

Spas

Fodor’s Choice | The Spa at Bardessono.
Many of this spa’s patrons are hotel guests who take their treatments in their rooms’ large, customized bathrooms—all of them equipped with concealed massage tables—but the main facility is open to guests and nonguests alike. An in-room treatment popular with couples starts with massages in front of the fireplace and ends with a whirlpool bath and a split of sparkling wine. For the two-hour Yountville Signature treatment, which can be enjoyed in-room or at the spa, a shea butter–enriched sugar scrub is applied, followed by a massage with antioxidant Chardonnay grape seed oil and a hydrating hair and scalp treatment. The spa engages massage therapists skilled in Swedish, Thai, and several other techniques. In addition to massages, the services include facials, waxing, and other skin-care treatments as well as manicures and pedicures. | Bardessono Hotel,6526 Yount St., at Mulberry St. | Yountville | 707/204–6050 | www.bardessono.com/spa | Treatments $65–$600 | Spa 9–6, in-room service 8–8.

Shopping

V Marketplace.
The clothing boutiques, art galleries, and gift stores amid this vine-covered market include celebrity chef Michael Chiarello’s NapaStyle, which sells cookbooks, kitchenware, and prepared foods that are perfect for picnics. The aromas alone will lure you into Kollar Chocolates, whose not-too-sweet, European-style chocolates are made on-site with imaginative ingredients. | 6525 Washington St., near Mulberry St. | Yountville | 707/944–2451 | www.vmarketplace.com.

Oakville

2 miles northwest of Yountville.

A large butte that runs east–west just north of Yountville blocks the cooling fogs from the south, facilitating the myriad microclimates of the Oakville AVA, home to several high-profile wineries.

Getting Here and Around

Driving along Highway 29, you’ll know you’ve reached Oakville when you see the Oakville Grocery on the east side of the road. You can reach Oakville from the Sonoma County town of Glen Ellen by heading east on Trinity Road from Highway 12. The twisting route, along the mountain range that divides Napa and Sonoma, eventually becomes the Oakville Grade. The views on this drive are breathtaking, though the continual curves make it unsuitable for those who suffer from motion sickness.

Exploring

Top Attractions

Fodor’s Choice | B Cellars.
The chefs hold center stage in this tasting room’s large open kitchen, and with good reason: creating food-friendly wines is B Cellars’s raison d’être. Founded in 2003, the winery moved from Calistoga to its new Oakville facility, all steel beams, corrugated metal, and plate glass, in 2014. The flagship wines are a Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Viognier blend and three red blends. One of the latter is a robust “super Tuscan” made with Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Petite Sirah, and Syrah. You can taste the blends and other wines—among them single-vineyard Cabernets whose grapes come from top Napa Valley vineyards—at appointment-only seated tastings involving good-size bites from the kitchen that prove just how admirably winemaker Kirk Venge fulfills the B Cellars mission. | 703 Oakville Cross Rd., west of Silverado Trail | Oakville | 707/709–8787 | www.bcellars.com | Tastings $45–$125 | Daily 10–5 by appointment.

Fodor’s Choice | Far Niente.
Though the fee for the combined tour and tasting is high, guests at Far Niente are welcomed by name and treated to a glimpse of one of the Napa Valley’s most beautiful properties. Small groups are escorted through the historic 1885 stone winery, including some of the 40,000 square feet of aging caves, for a lesson on the labor-intensive method of making Far Niente’s flagship wines: a Cabernet Sauvignon blend and a Chardonnay. The next stop is the Carriage House, which holds a gleaming collection of classic cars. The seated tasting of wines and cheeses that follows concludes on a sweet note with Dolce, a late-harvest wine made from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes. | 1350 Acacia Dr., off Oakville Grade Rd. | Oakville | 707/944–2861 | www.farniente.com | Tasting and tour $65 | Daily 10–3 by appointment.

Fodor’s Choice | Silver Oak Cellars.
In what may been its decade’s most addlepated prognostication, the first review of Silver Oak’s Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon declared the debut 1972 vintage not all that good—and overpriced at $6 a bottle. Oops. The celebrated Bordeaux-style Cabernet blend, still the only Napa Valley wine bearing its winery’s label each year, evolved into a cult favorite, and its only two creators, the late Justin Meyer and current winemaker Daniel Baron, received worldwide recognition for their artistry. At the august Oakville tasting room, constructed out of reclaimed stone and other materials from a 19th-century Kansas flour mill, you can sip the current Napa Valley vintage, the current 100% Cabernet from Silver Oak’s Alexander Valley operation, and some library wines ($20). Tours, private tastings, and food-wine pairings elevate the experience. | 915 Oakville Cross Rd., off Hwy. 29 | Oakville | 707/942–7022 | www.silveroak.com | Tastings $20–$60, tour $30 | Tasting Mon.–Sat.–5, Sun. 11–5; tour Mon.–Thurs. 10 and 1, Fri. and Sat. 10, 1, and 3, Sun. 11 and 1; no appointment required for current-release ($20) tasting; all other tastings and the tour by appointment.

Worth Noting

Oakville Grocery.
Built in 1881 as a general store, Oakville Grocery carries high-end groceries and prepared foods. On busy summer weekends the place is often packed with customers stocking up on picnic provisions: meats, cheeses, breads, and gourmet sandwiches. During the week this is a mellow pit stop where you can sit on a bench out front and sip an espresso or head out back and have a picnic. TIP Patrons dropping by for savory breakfast burritos, scones and muffins, and high-test coffee drinks keep Oakville bustling until right before lunchtime. | 7856 St. Helena Hwy./Hwy. 29, at Oakville Cross Rd. | Oakville | 707/944–8802 | www.oakvillegrocery.com.

Robert Mondavi Winery.
The arch at the center of the sprawling Mission-style building frames the lawn and the vineyard behind, inviting a stroll under the arcades. You can head for one of the two tasting rooms, but if you’ve not toured a winery before, the 90-minute Signature Tour and Tasting ($30) is a good way to learn about enology, as well as the late Robert Mondavi’s role in California wine making. Those new to tasting and mystified by all that swirling and sniffing should consider the 45-minute Wine Tasting Basics experience ($20). Serious wine lovers can opt for the one-hour $55 Exclusive Cellar tasting, during which a server pours and explains limited-production, reserve, and older-vintage wines. TIP Concerts, mostly jazz and R&B, take place in summer on the lawn; call ahead for tickets. | 7801 St. Helena Hwy./Hwy. 29 | Oakville | 888/766–6328 | www.robertmondaviwinery.com | Tastings $20–$55, tours $20–$50 | Daily 10–5; tour times vary.

Rutherford

2 miles northwest of Oakville.

With its singular microclimate and soil, Rutherford is an important viticultural center, with more big-name wineries than you can shake a corkscrew at. Cabernet Sauvignon is king here. The well-drained, loamy soil is ideal for those vines, and since this part of the valley gets plenty of sun, the grapes develop exceptionally intense flavors.

Getting Here and Around

Wineries around Rutherford are dotted along Highway 29 and the parallel Silverado Trail north and south of Rutherford Road/Conn Creek Road, on which wineries can also be found.

Exploring

Top Attractions

Fodor’s Choice | Caymus Vineyards.
For a winery whose claims to fame include producing Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon, the only two-time Wine Spectator Wine of the Year honoree, Caymus remains a remarkably accessible spot to taste current and past vintages of the celebrated wine. Chuck Wagner started making wine on this property in 1972 and still oversees Caymus production. His children craft most of the other wines in the Wagner Family of Wines portfolio, including the oaked and unoaked Mer Soleil Chardonnays and the Belle Glos Pinot Noirs. TIP You can sample Caymus and other wines at the often crowded tasting bar for $25—in good weather, wines are also poured outside—but to taste library wines and learn more about the winery’s history, consider booking a private tasting. | 8700 Conn Creek Rd., off Rutherford Rd. | Rutherford | 707/967–3010 | www.caymus.com | Tastings $25–$40 | Daily 9:30–4:30, last tasting at 4; private tasting by appointment.

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Frog’s Leap.
John Williams, owner of Frog’s Leap, maintains a sense of humor about wine that translates into an entertaining yet informative experience—if you’re a novice, the tour here is a fun way to begin your education. You’ll taste wines that might include Zinfandel, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and an estate-grown Cabernet Sauvignon. The winery includes a barn built in 1884, 5 acres of organic gardens, an eco-friendly visitor center, and a frog pond topped with lily pads. TIP The tour is highly recommended, but you can also just sample wines either inside or on a porch overlooking the garden. | 8815 Conn Creek Rd. | Rutherford | 707/963–4704, 800/959–4704 | www.frogsleap.com | Tastings $15–$20, tour $20 | Tastings daily 10–4 by appointment only; tours weekdays at 10:30 and 2:30 by appointment.

Inglenook.
Filmmaker Francis Ford Coppola began his wine-making career in 1975, when he bought part of the historic Inglenook estate. Over the next few decades he reunited the original property acquired by Inglenook founder Gustave Niebaum, remodeled Niebaum’s ivy-covered 1880s château, and purchased the rights to the Inglenook name. Various tours cover the estate’s history, the local climate and geology, the sensory evaluation of wine, and the evolution of Coppola’s signature wine, Rubicon, a Cabernet Sauvignon–based blend. Some tastings are held in an opulent, high-ceilinged room, others in a wine-aging cave. TIP You can taste wines by the glass (or the bottle) at The Bistro, an on-site wine bar with a picturesque courtyard. | 1991 St. Helena Hwy./Hwy. 29 | Rutherford | 707/968–1100, 800/782–4266 | www.inglenook.com | Tastings $45–$60, tours $50–$85 | Daily 10–5; call for tour times.

Mumm Napa.
In well-known Mumm’s light-filled tasting room or adjacent outdoor patio you can enjoy bubbly by the flute or the flight, but the sophisticated sparkling wines, elegant setting, and vineyard views aren’t the only reasons to visit. An excellent gallery displays 27 original Ansel Adams prints and presents temporary exhibitions by acclaimed photographers. Winery tours cover the major steps making sparklers entails. For a leisurely tasting of several vintages of the top-of-the-line DVX wines, served with cheeses, nuts, and fresh and dried fruit, book an Oak Terrace tasting ($40; reservations recommended on Friday and weekends). TIP Carlos Santana fans may want to taste the sparklers the musician makes in collaboration with Mumm’s winemaker, Ludovic Dervin. | 8445 Silverado Trail, 1 mile south of Rutherford Cross Rd. | Rutherford | 707/967–7700, 800/686–6272 | www.mummnapa.com | Tastings $8–$40, tour $25 (includes tasting) | Daily 10–4:45; tour daily at 10, 11, 1, and 3.

Worth Noting

Beaulieu Vineyard.
The influential André Tchelistcheff (1901–94), who helped define the California style of wine making, worked his magic here for many years. BV, founded in 1900 by Georges de Latour and his wife, Fernande, is known for its widely distributed Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon wines, but many others are produced in small lots and are available only at the winery. The most famous of the small-lot wines is the flagship Georges De Latour Cabernet Sauvignon, first crafted by Tchelistcheff himself in the late 1930s. TIP The engaging historic tour ($35) includes a peek at Prohibition-era artifacts and tastes of finished wines and ones still aging in their barrels. | 1960 St. Helena Hwy./Hwy. 29 | Rutherford | 707/967–5233, 800/264–6918 Ext. 5233 | www.bvwines.com | Tastings $20–$75, tour $35 | Daily 10–5.

FAMILY | Honig Vineyard & Winery.
Sustainable farming is the big story at this family-run winery. Michael Honig, the grandson of founder Louis Honig, helped write the code of sustainable practices for the California Wine Institute and was a key player in developing the first certification programs for state wineries. The tour here, offered seasonally, focuses on the Honig family’s environmentally friendly farming and production methods, which include the use of solar panels to generate a majority of the winery’s power. The family produces only Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc. You can taste whites and reds at a standard tasting for $20; the reserve tasting ($50) pairs single-vineyard Cabernets with small bites. | 850 Rutherford Rd., near Conn Creek Rd. | Rutherford | 800/929–2217 | www.honigwine.com | Tastings $20–$50; tour $30 | Daily 10:30–4:30 (reserve tasting daily Mon.–Sat.), tour spring–fall Mon.–Thurs. at 10; tastings and tour by appointment.

Where to Eat and Stay

Fodor’s Choice | Restaurant at Auberge du Soleil.
$$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Possibly the most romantic roost for a dinner in all the Wine Country is a terrace seat at the Auberge du Soleil’s illustrious restaurant, and the Mediterranean-inflected cuisine more than matches the dramatic vineyard views. The prix-fixe dinner menu ($105 for three courses, $125 for four; $150 for the six-course tasting menu), which relies largely on local produce, might include veal sweetbreads with hearts of palm and chanterelles in an orange glaze or prime beef pavé with white corn, potato croquettes, and a caramelized shallot sauce. The service is polished, and the wine list is comprehensive. TIP With a menu that embraces everything from muffins and gnocchi to Cabernet-braised short rib and (in season) a Maine lobster omelet, the weekend brunch here is delightfully over-the-top. | Average main: $105 | Auberge du Soleil,180 Rutherford Hill Rd., off Silverado Trail | Rutherford | 707/963–1211, 800/348–5406 | www.aubergedusoleil.com | Reservations essential.

Fodor’s Choice | Rutherford Grill.
$$$ | AMERICAN | Dark-wood walls, subdued lighting, and red-leather banquettes make for a perpetually clubby mood at this trusty Rutherford hangout. Many entrées—steaks, burgers, fish, succulent rotisserie chicken, and barbecued pork ribs—emerge from an oak-fired grill operated by master technicians. So, too, do starters such as the grilled jumbo artichokes and the iron-skillet corn bread, a ton of butter being the secret of success with both. The French dip sandwich is a local legend, and the wine list includes rare selections from Caymus and other celebrated producers at (for Napa) reasonable prices. You can also opt for a well-crafted cocktail. TIP In good weather the patio, popular for its bar, fireplace, and rocking chairs, is open for full meal service or drinks and appetizers. | Average main: $25 | 1180 Rutherford Rd., at Hwy. 29 | Rutherford | 707/963–1792 | www.rutherfordgrill.com | Reservations essential.

Fodor’s Choice | Auberge du Soleil.
$$$$ | RESORT | Taking a cue from the olive-tree-studded landscape, this hotel with a renowned restaurant and spa cultivates a luxurious look that blends French and California style. It backs up that look—custom wood furnishings and soft yellow terra cotta, and ocher hues—with lavish amenities that include private terraces, jetted soaking tubs, and extra-large showers. Pros: stunning views over the valley; spectacular pool and spa areas; the most expensive suites are fit for a superstar. Cons: stratospheric prices; least expensive rooms get some noise from the bar and restaurant. | Rooms from: $850 | 180 Rutherford Hill Rd. | Rutherford | 707/963–1211, 800/348–5406 | www.aubergedusoleil.com | 31 rooms, 21 suites | Breakfast.

St. Helena

2 miles northwest of Oakville.

Downtown St. Helena is a symbol of how well life can be lived in the Wine Country. Sycamore trees arch over Main Street (Highway 29), a funnel of outstanding restaurants and tempting boutiques. At the north end of town looms the hulking stone building of the Culinary Institute of America. Weathered stone and brick buildings from the late 1800s give off that gratifying whiff of history.

The town got its start in 1854, when Henry Still built a store. Still wanted company, so he donated land lots on his town site to anyone who wanted to erect a business. Soon he was joined by a wagon shop, a shoe shop, hotels, and churches. Dr. George Crane planted a vineyard in 1858, and was the first to produce wine in commercially viable quantities. A German winemaker named Charles Krug followed suit a couple of years later, and other wineries soon followed.

Getting Here and Around

Downtown stretches along Highway 29, called Main Street here. Many wineries lie north and south of downtown along Highway 29. More can be found off Silverado Trail, and some of the most scenic spots are on Spring Mountain, which rises southwest of town.

Exploring

Top Attractions

Fodor’s Choice | Charles Krug Winery.
A historically sensitive renovation of its 1874 Redwood Cellar Building transformed the former production facility of the Napa Valley’s oldest operating winery into an epic hospitality center with a tasting room and a café. Charles Krug, a Prussian immigrant, established the winery in 1861 and ran it until his death in 1892. Italian immigrants Cesare Mondavi and his wife, Rosa, purchased Krug in 1943, and operated it with their sons Peter and Robert (who later opened his own winery). Krug, still run by Peter’s family, specializes in small-lot Yountville and Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignons and makes Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, and a Zinfandel Port. TIP The café sells food to eat inside or at oak-shaded picnic tables (reservations recommended). | 2800 Main St./Hwy. 29, across from Culinary Institute of America | St. Helena | 707/967–2229 | www.charleskrug.com | Tastings $20–$50, tours $60 (includes tasting) | Daily 10:30–5; tours by appointment Mon.–Thurs. 10:30 and 12:30, Fri.–Sun. 10:30.

Duckhorn Vineyards.
Merlot’s moment in the spotlight may have passed, but you wouldn’t know it at Duckhorn, whose fans gladly pay from $50 to nearly $100 a bottle for some of the world’s finest wines from this varietal. You can taste Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and other wines in the airy, high-ceilinged tasting room, which looks like a sleek restaurant; you’ll be seated at a table and served by staffers who make the rounds to pour. In fair weather, you may do your sipping on a fetching wraparound porch overlooking a vineyard. TIP You don’t need a reservation on weekdays to taste the current releases ($30), but you do on weekends, and they’re required all the time for private and semiprivate tastings. | 1000 Lodi La., at Silverado Trail N | St. Helena | 707/963–7108 | www.duckhorn.com | Tastings $30–$75 | Daily 10–4.

Fodor’s Choice | Hall St. Helena.
The award-winning Cabernet Sauvignons, Merlots, and an impeccable Syrah produced here are works of art—and of up-to-the-minute organic-farming science and wine-making technology. A glass-walled tasting room allows you to see in action some of the high-tech equipment director of winemaking Steve Leveque employs to craft the wines, which also include Cabernet Franc and late-harvest Sauvignon Blanc. The main guided tour provides a closer-up look at the facility and covers the winery’s history and architecture and the three-dozen works—inside and out—by Patrick Dougherty, John Baldessari, Jesús Moroles, and other major contemporary artists. TIP The well-conceived seminars here include ones about the artworks, demystifying food and wine, and collecting Cabernet Sauvignons. | 401 St. Helena Hwy./Hwy. 29, near White La. | St. Helena | 707/967–2626 | www.hallwines.com | Tastings $30–$100; tours $40–$75 | Daily 10–5:30.

Fodor’s Choice | Joseph Phelps Vineyards.
An appointment is required for tastings at the winery started by the legendary Joseph Phelps—his son Bill now runs the operation—but it’s well worth the effort. Phelps makes fine whites, but the blockbuster wines are reds, particularly the Cabernet Sauvignon and the flagship Bordeaux-style blend called Insignia. The luscious-yet-subtle Insignia sells for more than $200 a bottle. Luckily, all tastings include the current vintage. The 90-minute seminars include one on wine-and-cheese pairing and another focusing on blending. Participants in the latter mix the various varietals that go into the Insignia blend. A new tasting room debuts in 2015 following a major renovation project. | 200 Taplin Rd., off Silverado Trail | St. Helena | 707/963–2745, 800/707–5789 | www.josephphelps.com | Tastings and seminars $60–$150 by appointment | Weekdays 10–4, weekends 10–3; tastings by appointment.

Worth Noting

Beringer Vineyards.
Arguably the Napa Valley’s most beautiful winery, the 1876 Beringer Vineyards is also the oldest continuously operating property. In 1884 Frederick and Jacob Beringer built the Rhine House Mansion as Frederick’s family home. Today it serves as the reserve tasting room, where you can sample wines surrounded by Belgian art-nouveau hand-carved oak and walnut furniture and stained-glass windows. The assortment includes a limited-release Chardonnay, a few big Cabernets, and a Sauterne-style dessert wine. A less expensive tasting takes place in the original stone winery. TIP The one-hour Taste of Beringer tour ($40), which includes a tasting with small food bites, provides a good overview of the valley’s wine-making history. | 2000 Main St./Hwy. 29, near Pratt Ave. | St. Helena | 707/963–8989, 866/708–9463 | www.beringer.com | Tastings $20–$50, tours $25–$40 | June–mid-Oct., daily 10–6; mid-Oct.–May, daily 10–5; many tours daily, call or check website for times.

Culinary Institute of America.
The West Coast headquarters of the country’s leading school for chefs are in the 1889 Greystone Winery, an imposing building that once was the world’s largest stone winery. On the ground floor you can check out the quirky Corkscrew Museum and browse a shop stocked with gleaming gadgets and many cookbooks. At the adjacent Flavor Bar you can sample various ingredients (for example, chocolate or olive oil). Plaques upstairs at the Vintners Hall of Fame commemorate winemakers past and present. Beguiling one-hour cooking demonstrations (reservations required) take place on weekends. The student-run Bakery Café by Illy serves soups, salads, sandwiches, and baked goods; the Institute also operates a full restaurant. | 2555 Main St./Hwy. 29 | St. Helena | 707/967–1100 | www.ciachef.edu | Museum and store free, cooking demonstrations $20, tastings $10–$15, tour $10 | Museum and store daily 10:30–6 (Mon.–Thurs. 11–5 in winter); tour 11:45, 2:45, 5.

Where to Eat

Fodor’s Choice | Archetype.
$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Chef Ryder Zetts earned instant raves for his fancifully updated “Americana” cuisine at this establishment designed and owned by winery architect Howard Backen. The cream-color decor, twirling ceiling fans, and rattan settees and chairs set an upscale-homey tone in the main dining area and on the screened-in front porch. Seasonal appetizers might include textbook fried green tomatoes—but with burrata cheese—or peaches with Surryano ham served with creamily addictive mascarpone-pepper jelly. For lunch expect sandwiches such as smoked salmon pepped up by quick-pickled cucumbers. Dinner glides into a more serious realm with, perhaps, bacon-crusted Alaskan halibut or leg of lamb with lamb merguez sausage. TIP The $5 happy hour (daily from 5 to 7) and Monday burger night are popular with locals. | Average main: $27 | 1429 Main St., near Adams St. | St. Helena | 707/968–9200 | www.archetypenapa.com.

Fodor’s Choice | Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen.
$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | At her St. Helena outpost, Cindy Pawlcyn serves variations on the comfort food she made popular at Mustards Grill, but spices things up with dishes influenced by Mexican, Central American, and occasionally Asian cuisines. Along with mainstays such as meat loaf with garlic mashed potatoes and beef and duck burgers served with flawless fries, the menu might include a rabbit tostada or chicken served with avocado salsa and a two-cheese stuffed green chili. Two dessert favorites are the high-style yet homey warm pineapple upside-down cake and the nearly ethereal parfait. | Average main: $22 | 1327 Railroad Ave., at Hunt St., 1 block east of Main St. | St. Helena | 707/963–1200 | www.cindysbackstreetkitchen.com.

Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch.
$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Housed in a former barn, Farmstead revolves around an open kitchen where chef Stephen Barber cooks with as many local and organic ingredients as possible. Many of them—including grass-fed beef and lamb, fruits and vegetables, eggs, extra-virgin olive oil, wine, and honey—come from the property of parent company Long Meadow Ranch. Entrées might include grilled rainbow trout with wild mushrooms, or potato gnocchi with beef ragout, herbs, and Parmesan. Tuesday is the popular panfried chicken night—$37 for a three-course meal. TIP The weekday happy hour, from 4 to 6 (good eats, too), is often hoppin’. | Average main: $20 | 738 Main St., at Charter Oak Ave. | St. Helena | 707/963–4555 | www.longmeadowranch.com/farmstead-restaurant.

Fodor’s Choice | Goose & Gander.
$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | The pairing of food and drink at intimate Goose & Gander is as likely to involve cocktails as it is wine. Main courses such as wild king salmon with roasted delicata squash, lentils, applewood-smoked bacon, and celery root velouté work well with starters that in season might include cream of mushroom soup made from both wild and cultivated varieties. You can enjoy your meal with a top-notch Chardonnay or Pinot Noir—or a Manhattan made with three kinds of bitters and poured over a hand-carved block of ice. On cold days a fireplace warms the main dining room, and in good weather the outdoor patio is a fetching spot to dine alfresco. TIP Year-round the basement bar is a good stop for a drink. | Average main: $25 | 1245 Spring St., at Oak St. | St. Helena | 707/967–8779 | www.goosegander.com.

Gott’s Roadside.
$ | AMERICAN | A 1950s-style outdoor hamburger stand goes upscale at this spot whose customers brave long lines to order breakfast sandwiches, juicy burgers, root-beer floats, and garlic fries. Choices not available a half century ago include the ahi tuna burger and the chili spice–marinated chicken breast served with Mexican slaw. TIP Arrive early or late for lunch, or all of the shaded picnic tables on the lawn might be filled. A second branch does business at Napa’s Oxbow Public Market. | Average main: $12 | 933 Main St./Hwy. 29 | St. Helena | 707/963–3486 | www.gotts.com | Reservations not accepted | Average main: $12 | Oxbow Public Market,644 1st St., at McKinstry St. | Napa | 707/224–6900 | Reservations not accepted.

Fodor’s Choice | Press.
$$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Few taste sensations surpass the combination of a sizzling steak and a Napa Valley red, a union that the chef and sommeliers here celebrate with a reverence bordering on obsession. Beef from carefully selected local and international purveyors is the star—especially the rib eye for two—but chef Trevor Kunk also prepares pork chops and free-range chicken and veal on his cherry-and-almond-wood-fired grill and rotisserie. Kunk, hired in 2014, has added vegetarian offerings that include a roasted carrot “hot dog” and fried-green-tomato sandwiches. The cellar holds thousands of wines; if you recall having a great steak with a 1985 Mayacamas Mt. Veeder Cab, you’ll be able to re-create, and perhaps exceed, the original event. Press’s bartenders know their way around both rad and trad cocktails. | Average main: $48 | 587 St. Helena Hwy./Hwy. 29, at White La. | St. Helena | 707/967–0550 | www.presssthelena.com | Reservations essential | Closed Tues. No lunch.

Fodor’s Choice | The Restaurant at Meadowood.
$$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Chef Christopher Kostow has garnered rave reviews—and three Michelin stars for several years running—for creating a unique dining experience. After you reserve your table, you’ll have a conversation with a reservationist about your party’s desired culinary experience and dietary restrictions. Inspired by this conversation, chef Kostow will transform seasonal local ingredients, some grown on or near the property, into an elaborate, multicourse experience. If you choose the Tasting Menu option ($225 per person, $450 with wine pairings), you’ll enjoy your meal in the romantic dining room, its beautiful finishes aglow with warm lighting. Choose the Counter Menu ($500, $850 with wine pairings), and you and up to three guests can sit inside the kitchen and watch Kostow’s team prepare your meal. TIP The restaurant also offers a limited, three-course menu ($90) at its bar. | Average main: $225 | 900 Meadowood La., off Silverado Trail N | St. Helena | 707/967–1205, 800/458–8080 | www.therestaurantatmeadowood.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. No lunch.

Fodor’s Choice | Terra.
$$$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | For old-school romance and service, many diners return year after year to this quiet favorite in an 1884 fieldstone building. Chef Hiro Sone gives an unexpected twist to Italian and southern French cuisine, though for a few standouts, among them the signature sake-marinated black cod in a shiso broth, he draws on his Japanese background. Homey yet elegant desserts, courtesy of Sone’s wife, Lissa Doumani, might include a chocolate mousseline with chocolate peanut butter crunch and toasted marshmallow. Meals here are prix-fixe—$78 for four courses where diners choose from the menu, $93 for five, and $105 for six. TIP Next door, Bar Terra serves cocktails, local wines, and a menu of lighter dishes—the succulent fried rock shrimp served with chive-mustard sauce is a local favorite. | Average main: $78 | 1345 Railroad Ave., off Hunt Ave. | St. Helena | 707/963–8931 | www.terrarestaurant.com | Closed Tues. No lunch.

Where to Stay

El Bonita Motel.
$ | HOTEL | For budget-minded travelers the tidy rooms at this roadside motel are pleasant enough, and the landscaped grounds and picnic tables elevate this property over similar places. There’s even a small sauna next to the hot tub and swimming pool, which is heated year-round. Family-friendly pluses include roll-away beds and cribs for a modest charge. lTo avoid highway noise, ask for rooms farthest from the road. Pros: cheerful rooms; hot tub; microwaves and mini-refrigerators. Cons: road noise is a problem in some rooms. | Rooms from: $130 | 195 Main St./Hwy. 29 | St. Helena | 707/963–3216, 800/541–3284 | www.elbonita.com | 48 rooms, 4 suites | Breakfast.

Fodor’s Choice | Harvest Inn by Charlie Palmer.
$$$ | HOTEL | Although this inn sits just off Highway 29, its patrons remain mostly above the fray, strolling 8 acres of landscaped gardens, enjoying views of the vineyards adjoining the property, partaking in spa services, and drifting to sleep in beds adorned with fancy linens and down pillows. In 2014 the New York City–based Charlie Palmer Group purchased the inn, whose rooms occupy a series of two-story, shake-shingled structures. The rooms still have a clubby feel, with dark-wood furniture and leather chairs; many rooms have brick fireplaces, and all have small refrigerators, Keurig coffee machines, Wi-Fi connections, flat-screen TVs, and DVD players. Some of the Napa Valley’s choicest wineries, restaurants, and shops are steps or a short drive away. In 2015 you’ll be able to dine right on-site: chef Palmer is opening a restaurant in the inn’s main building. Pros: garden setting; spacious rooms; well-trained staff. Cons: some lower-priced rooms lack elegance; high weekend rates. | Rooms from: $359 | 1 Main St. | St. Helena | 707/963–9463, 800/950–8466 | www.harvestinn.com | 69 rooms, 5 suites | Breakfast.

Fodor’s Choice | Meadowood Napa Valley.
$$$$ | RESORT | Founded in 1964 as a country club, Meadowood has evolved into a five-star resort, a gathering place for Napa’s wine-making community, and a celebrated dining destination. The lodges and gray clapboard bungalow-style structures scattered across this sprawling property lend it an exclusive New England feel. Everything runs seamlessly, starting with the gatehouse staff, who alert the front desk about arrivals. Guest rooms have views over the wooded grounds and golf course from expansive windows. Wood-burning fireplaces and the supremely comfortable beds defy you to get up and pursue the golf, tennis, hiking, croquet, and other activities. Under chef Christopher Kostow, The Restaurant at Meadowood has won high praise from critics and foodies—and three Michelin stars. In 2014, the restaurant staff won the James Beard Award for Outstanding Service. A new world-class spa facility is scheduled to debut by late 2015. Pros: superb restaurant; pleasant hiking trails; gracious service. Cons: very expensive; far from downtown St. Helena. | Rooms from: $650 | 900 Meadowood La. | St. Helena | 707/963–3646, 800/458–8080 | www.meadowood.com | 85 rooms, suites, and cottages | No meals.

Calistoga

3 miles northwest of St. Helena.

With false-fronted, Old West–style shops and 19th-century inns and hotels lining its main drag, Lincoln Avenue, Calistoga comes across as more down-to-earth than its more polished neighbors. Don’t be fooled, though. On its outskirts lie some of the Wine Country’s swankest (and priciest) resorts and its most fanciful piece of architecture, the medieval-style Castello di Amorosa winery.

Calistoga was developed as a spa-oriented getaway from the start. Sam Brannan, a gold rush–era entrepreneur, planned to use the area’s natural hot springs as the centerpiece of a resort complex. His venture failed, but old-time hotels and bathhouses—along with some glorious new spas—still operate. You can come for an old-school mud bath, or go completely 21st century and experience lavish treatments based on the latest innovations in skin and body care.

Getting Here and Around

Highway 29 heads east (turn right) at Calistoga, where in town it is signed as Lincoln Avenue. If arriving via the Silverado Trail, head west at Highway 29/Lincoln Avenue.

Exploring

Top Attractions

Castello di Amorosa.
An astounding medieval structure complete with drawbridge and moat, chapel, stables, and secret passageways, the Castello commands Diamond Mountain’s lower eastern slope. Some of the 107 rooms contain replicas of 13th-century frescoes (cheekily signed [the-artist’s-name].com), and the dungeon has an actual iron maiden from Nuremberg, Germany. You must pay for a tour to see most of Dario Sattui’s extensive eight-level property, though basic tastings include access to part of the complex. Wines of note include several Italian-style wines, including La Castellana, a robust “super Tuscan” blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, and Merlot; and Il Barone, a praiseworthy cab made largely from Diamond Mountain grapes. TIP The two-hour food-and-wine pairing ($75) by sommelier Mary Davidek is among the Wine Country’s best. | 4045 N. St. Helena Hwy./Hwy. 29, near Maple La. | Calistoga | 707/967–6272 | www.castellodiamorosa.com | Tastings $20–$30, tours (with tastings) $35–$75 | Mar.–Oct., daily 9:30–6; Nov.–Feb., daily 9:30–5; tours and food-wine pairings by appointment.

Ca’ Toga Galleria d’Arte.
The boundless wit, whimsy, and creativity of the Venetian-born Carlo Marchiori, this gallery’s owner-artist, finds expression in paintings, watercolors, ceramics, sculptures, and other artworks. Marchiori often draws on mythology and folktales for his inspiration. A stop at this magical gallery may inspire you to tour Villa Ca’ Toga, the artist’s fanciful Palladian home, a tromp l’oeil tour de force that can be toured from May through October on Saturday only, at 11 am. | 1206 Cedar St., near Lincoln Ave. | Calistoga | 707/942–3900 | www.catoga.com | Closed Tues. and Wed.

Chateau Montelena.
Set amid a bucolic northern Calistoga landscape, this winery helped establish the Napa Valley’s reputation for high-quality wine making. At the legendary Paris tasting of 1976, the Chateau Montelena 1973 Chardonnay took first place, beating out four white Burgundies from France and five other California Chardonnays. The 2008 movie Bottle Shock immortalized the event, and the winery honors its four decades of classic wine making with a special Beyond Paris & Hollywood tasting of the winery’s Napa Valley Chardonnays ($40). You can also opt for a Current Release Tasting ($25) or a Limited Release Tasting ($50) that includes some stellar Cabernet Sauvignons. | 1429 Tubbs La., off Hwy. 29 | Calistoga | 707/942–5105 | www.montelena.com | Tastings $20–$50, tours $40; appointment required and restrictions apply for some tastings and tours | Daily 9:30–4.

Fodor’s Choice | Schramsberg.
Founded in 1865, Schramsberg produces sparkling wines made using the méthode traditionnelle, also known as méthode champenoise. A fascinating tour precedes tastings. In addition to glimpsing the winery’s historic architecture, you’ll visit caves, some dug in late 19th century by Chinese laborers, where 2 million–plus bottles are stacked in gravity-defying configurations. Tastings include generous pours of very different bubblies. To learn more about them, consider the three-day Camp Schramsberg, held in fall and spring. Fall participants harvest grapes and learn about food and wine pairing, riddling (the process of turning the bottles every few days to nudge the sediment into the neck of the bottle), and other topics. In spring the focus is on blending. | 1400 Schramsberg Rd., off Hwy. 29 | Calistoga | 707/942–4558, 800/877–3623 | www.schramsberg.com | Tasting and tour $60 | Tours at 10, 10:30, 11:30, 12:30, 1:30, and 2:30 by appointment.

Worth Noting

Dutch Henry Winery.
The casual style and lack of crowds at this pet-friendly winery make it a welcome change of pace from some of its overly serious neighbors. Towering oak barrels hold excellent Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Syrah, and other single-varietal wines, along with a well-regarded Bordeaux blend called Argos. Dutch Henry also sells a Sauvignon Blanc and a charming Rosé. A current-release tasting will introduce you to these wines; you can also visit the wine caves on one of two tours that include tastings. | 4310 Silverado Trail, near Dutch Henry Canyon Rd. | Calistoga | 707/942–5771 | www.dutchhenry.com | Tasting $25, tours $35–$50 | Daily 10–4:30, tours by appointment.

Lava Vine Winery.
The owners and staff of this jolly spot pride themselves on creating a family- and dog-friendly environment, and you’re apt to hear rock, pop, and other tunes as you taste small-lot wines that include Cabernet Sauvignon, Chenin Blanc, Syrah, and Port. The wry Pete might even start playing the banjo. TIP If they’re available and you like mighty reds, be sure to taste the Suisun Valley Petite Sirah and the Knights Valley Reserve Cabernet. | 965 Silverado Trail N | Calistoga | 707/942–9500 | www.lavavine.com | Tasting $10 | Daily 10–5.

Tamber Bey Vineyards.
Endurance riders Barry and Jennifer Waitte share their passion for horses and wine at their glam-rustic winery north of Calistoga. Their 22-acre Sundance Ranch remains a working equestrian facility, but the site has been revamped to include a state-of-the-art winery with separate fermenting tanks for grapes from Tamber Bey’s vineyards in Yountville, Oakville, and elsewhere. The winemakers produce two Chardonnays and a Sauvignon Blanc, but the winery’s stars are several subtly powerful reds, including the flagship Cabernet Sauvignon, a Merlot, and blends dominated by Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot. TIP Appointments are required, but even on a few-minutes’ notice they’re generally easy to get. | 1251 Tubbs La., at Myrtledale Rd. | Calistoga | 707/942–2100 | www.tamberbey.com | Tastings $25–$55, tour and tasting $45 | Daily 10–5, by appointment only.

Where to Eat

Fodor’s Choice | Hotel D’Amici.
$$$ | ITALIAN | Italian and Italian-American influences abound at this restaurant operated by the Pestoni family, owners of Rutherford Grove Winery. A wall painted by San Francisco muralist Brian Barneclo riffs off Federico’s Fellini’s film 8½; photos of Pestonis making Napa Valley wine (since 1892) are everywhere; and, perhaps most importantly, chef Joe Venezia is a protégé of the late cookbook author Marcella Hazan. Like Hazan, Venezia seeks out top-quality ingredients, strives for simplicity, and cooks sauces and his meals’ other components long enough to permit the flavors to meld. He prepares all the classics, including gnocchi, spaghetti with seafood, and veal scaloppine, with finesse. Pestoni and other California vintages dominate the wine list, and there are Italian selections. | Average main: $24 | 1440 Lincoln Ave., near Washington St. | Calistoga | 707/942–1400 | www.hoteldamici.com.

JoLē.
$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Local produce plays a starring role at this modern American restaurant, not surprising as chef Matt Spector is one of the area’s biggest proponents of farm-to-table dining. Depending on when you visit, you might enjoy roasted cauliflower served with almonds, dates, capers, and balsamic; kale stew with Tasso ham, kabocha squash, and fingerling potatoes; and molasses-glazed quail with farro risotto, roasted pumpkin, and a maple-bourbon demi-glace. The menu is available à la carte, and there are four-, five-, and six-course prix-fixe options. With about four dozen wines by the glass, it’s easy to find something to pair with each course. There’s also a full bar, with a happy hour daily from 4 pm to 6 pm. | Average main: $25 | Mount View Hotel,1457 Lincoln Ave., near Fair Way | Calistoga | 707/942–9538 | jolerestaurant.com | No lunch.

Fodor’s Choice | Solbar.
$$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Chef Brandon Sharp is known around the region for his subtle and sophisticated take on Wine Country cooking. As befits a restaurant at a spa resort, the menu here is divided into “healthy, lighter dishes” and “hearty cuisine.” On the lighter side, the lemongrass-poached petrale sole comes with jasmine rice and hearts of palm. On the heartier side you might find a rib-eye steak served with Kennebec potatoes, creamed spinach, and sauce bordelaise. The service at Solbar is uniformly excellent, and in good weather the patio is a festive spot for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. | Average main: $31 | Solage Calistoga,755 Silverado Trail, at Rosedale Rd. | Calistoga | 877/684–9146 | www.solagecalistoga.com/solbar.

Where to Stay

Fodor’s Choice | Calistoga Ranch.
$$$$ | RESORT | Spacious cedar-shingle lodges throughout this posh, wooded property have outdoor living areas, and even the restaurant, spa, and reception space have outdoor seating and fireplaces. Though the property feels casual and ranchlike, the accommodations are supremely luxurious, with large bathrooms, romantic outdoor showers, beds dressed with down bedding, and minibars stocked with free drinks and snacks. Pros: almost half the lodges have private hot tubs on the deck; lovely hiking trails on the property; guests have reciprocal privileges at Auberge du Soleil and Solage Calistoga. Cons: innovative indoor-outdoor organization works better in fair weather than in rain or cold. | Rooms from: $720 | 580 Lommel Rd. | Calistoga | 707/254–2800, 800/942–4220 | www.calistogaranch.com | 50 guest lodges | No meals.

Indian Springs Resort and Spa.
$$ | RESORT | Stylish Indian Springs—operating as a spa since 1862—ably splits the difference between laid-back style and ultrachic touches. The accommodations—including 75 new rooms that debuted in 2014—are thoughtfully done up a simple style, with shades of green on the walls, French-inspired furnishings, and Mascioni sheets on the beds. The duplex cottages dotted around the property have small kitchenettes, encouraging longer stays (book cottages well in advance, especially the one with a full kitchen). Rooms in the lodge, though small, are equally peaceful. Boccie ball and shuffleboard courts and a croquet lawn provide entertainment when you’re not indulging in volcanic-ash mud baths or soaking in the toasty Olympic-size mineral-water pool. Pros: palm-studded grounds with outdoor seating areas; on-site restaurant; stylish for the price; enormous mineral pool; free touring bikes. Cons: lodge rooms are small; service could be more polished. | Rooms from: $259 | 1712 Lincoln Ave. | Calistoga | 707/942–4913 | www.indianspringscalistoga.com | 77 rooms, 18 suites, 18 cottages, 3 houses | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Luxe Calistoga.
$$ | B&B/INN | Extravagant hospitality defines the Napa Valley’s luxury properties, but this inn takes the prize in the small-lodging category. Every night there is a wine-and-cheese event held on the expansive wraparound porch of the 1873 Victorian the inn occupies. (Heaters and blankets keep patrons toasty on cold days.) The rooms are immaculately maintained, each furnished with a tastefully casual mix of new and antique appointments. Come morning, the four-course breakfasts are marvelous affairs. Pros: attentive owners; marvelous breakfasts; good restaurants, tasting rooms, and shopping within walking distance. Cons: the hum (and sometimes scent) of street traffic is ever-present. | Rooms from: $269 | 1139 Lincoln Ave. | Calistoga | 707/942–9797 | luxecalistoga.com | 5 rooms | Breakfast.

Fodor’s Choice | Meadowlark Country House.
$$ | B&B/INN | Two charming European gents run this laid-back but sophisticated inn on 20 wooded acres just north of downtown. The accommodations consist of a guesthouse, a cottage, five rooms, and three suites, some with fireplaces and all with outdoor decks or patios where you can enjoy the breezes. All have whirlpool tubs large enough for two. The outdoor pool, hot tub, and sauna, open to all guests, are clothing optional. In keeping with the owners’ cosmopolitan worldview, the inn is, in their words, “hetero, bi, gay, and naturist friendly”—and it welcomes pets, too. Pros: charming innkeepers; tasty sit-down breakfasts; welcoming vibe that attracts diverse guests. Cons: clothing-optional pool policy isn’t for everyone. | Rooms from: $210 | 601 Petrified Forest Rd. | Calistoga | 707/942–5651, 800/942–5651 | www.meadowlarkinn.com | 5 rooms, 3 suites, 1 cottage, 1 guesthouse | Breakfast.

Fodor’s Choice | Solage Calistoga.
$$$$ | RESORT | The aesthetic at this 22-acre property is Napa Valley barn meets San Francisco loft, so the rooms have high ceilings, polished concrete floors, recycled walnut furniture, and all-natural fabrics in soothingly muted colors. It’s a resort for sociable sorts who like to lounge at the bar overlooking the large pool or play a game of boccie after lunch at the award-winning Solbar restaurant. Health and wellness are a high priority: in addition to a large, well-equipped spa and bathhouse where you can indulge in various mud baths, there’s a packed schedule of fitness activities that include yoga, Pilates, and biking and hiking excursions. lTo be in the middle of the action, ask for a room facing the pool. For more seclusion, ask to be nearer the oak grove. Pros: great service; complimentary bikes; separate pools for kids and adults. Cons: the vibe may not suit everyone. | Rooms from: $548 | 755 Silverado Trail | Calistoga | 855/942–7442, 707/226–0800 | www.solagecalistoga.com | 83 rooms, 6 suites | No meals.

Spas

Fodor’s Choice | Spa Solage.
This eco-conscious spa has reinvented the traditional Calistoga mud and mineral water therapies. Case in point: the hour-long “Mudslide,” a three-part treatment that includes a mud body mask (in a heated lounge), a soak in a thermal bath, and a power nap in a sound/vibration chair. The mud here is a mix of clay, volcanic ash, and essential oils. Traditional spa services—combination Shiatsu-Swedish and other massages, full-body exfoliations, facials, and waxes—are available, as are fitness and yoga classes. | 755 Silverado Trail, at Rosedale Rd. | Calistoga | 707/226–0825, 855/790–6023 | www.solagecalistoga.com/spa | Treatments $98–$470 | Daily 8–8.

Sports and the Outdoors

Calistoga Bikeshop.
Options here include regular and fancy bikes that rent for $18 an hour and up, and there’s a self-guided Cool Wine Tour ($90) that includes tastings at three or four small wineries. | 1318 Lincoln Ave., near Washington St. | Calistoga | 707/942–9687 | www.calistogabikeshop.net.

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