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Sonoma | Glen Ellen | Kenwood
The birthplace of modern California wine making—Count Aragon Haraszthy opened Buena Vista Winery here in 1857—Sonoma Valley seduces with its unpretentious attitude and pastoral landscape. Tasting rooms, restaurants, and historical sites, among the latter the last mission established in California by Franciscan friars, abound near Sonoma Plaza. Beyond downtown Sonoma, the wineries and attractions are spread out along gently winding roads. Sonoma County’s half of the Carneros District lies within Sonoma Valley, whose other towns of note include Glen Ellen and Kenwood. Sonoma Valley tasting rooms are often less crowded than those in Napa or northern Sonoma County, especially midweek, and the vibe here, though sophisticated, is definitely less sceney.
Essentials
Contact
Sonoma Valley Visitors Bureau. | 707/996–1090, 866/996–1090 | www.sonomavalley.com.
Sonoma
14 miles west of Napa, 45 miles northeast of San Francisco.
One of the few towns in the valley with multiple attractions not related to food and wine, Sonoma has plenty to keep you busy for a couple of hours before you head out to tour the wineries. And you needn’t leave town to taste wine. There are more than two dozen tasting rooms within steps of the plaza, some of which pour wines from more than one winery. The valley’s cultural center, Sonoma, founded in 1835 when California was still part of Mexico, is built around a large, tree-filled plaza.
Getting Here and Around
Highway 12 (signed as Broadway near Sonoma Plaza) heads north into Sonoma from Highway 121 and south from Santa Rosa into downtown Sonoma, where (signed as West Spain Street) it travels east to the plaza. Parking is relatively easy to find on or near the plaza, and you can walk to many restaurants, shops, and tasting rooms. Signs on East Spain Street and East Napa Street point the way to several wineries a mile or more east of the plaza.
Exploring
Top Attractions
Fodor’s Choice | Gundlach Bundschu.
Visitors may mispronounce this winery’s name (“gun lock bun shoe” gets you close), but still they flock here to sample polished wines served by friendly pourers. Most of the winery’s land has been in the Bundschu family since 1858. Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Tempranillo wines all are available in the standard $10 tasting. Add $10 to taste the signature Vintage Reserve red blend. For a more comprehensive experience, take the farm tour ($30), which ends with a cave tasting, or head into the vineyard ($50; available only between May and October). The Heritage Pairing ($75), involving gourmet bites and limited-release wines, takes place on weekends by appointment. TIP On summer Fridays and weekends you can taste at vineyard-view tables outdoors. | 2000 Denmark St., at Bundschu Rd., off 8th St. E | Sonoma | 707/938–5277 | www.gunbun.com | Tastings $10–$25, tours $30–$50; food-wine pairing $75 | June–mid-Oct., daily 11–5:30; mid-Oct.–May, daily 11–4:30; food-wine pairing weekends by appointment.
Fodor’s Choice | Patz & Hall.
Sophisticated single-vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs are the trademark of this respected winery that relocated from Napa to Sonoma in 2014. It’s a Wine Country adage that great wines are made in the vineyard—the all-star fields represented here include Hyde, Durell, and Gap’s Crown—but winemaker James Hall routinely surpasses peers with access to the same fruit, proof that discernment and expertise (Hall is a master at oak aging) play a role, too. Seated tastings hosted by knowledgeable pourers take place in a fashionable single-story residence 3 miles southeast of Sonoma Plaza. You can taste at the bar and on some days on the vineyard-view terrace beyond it, but to learn how food friendly these wines are, consider the Salon Tasting, at which they’re paired with gourmet bites crafted with equal finesse. | 21200 8th St. E, near Peru Rd. | Sonoma | 707/265–7700 | www.patzhall.com | Tastings $25–$75 | Thurs.–Mon. 10–4, by appointment.
Fodor’s Choice | Ram’s Gate Winery.
Stunning views, ultrachic architecture, and wines made from grapes grown by acclaimed producers make a visit to Ram’s Gate an event. The welcoming interior spaces—think Restoration Hardware with a dash of high-style whimsy—open up to the entire western Carneros. During fine weather you’ll experience (in comfort) the cooling breezes that sweep through the area while sipping sophisticated wines, mostly Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, but also Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, late-harvest Zinfandel, and even a sparkler. With grapes sourced from the Sangiacomo, Hudson, and other illustrious vineyards, winemaker Jeff Gaffner focuses on creating balanced vintages that express what occurred in nature that year. One food-wine pairing ($60) includes tapas, wine tasting, and a winery tour; the other ($125; Thursday and Friday only) focuses on food and wine education. | 28700 Arnold Dr./Hwy. 121 | Sonoma | 707/721–8700 | www.ramsgatewinery.com | Tasting $20–$125 | Thurs.–Mon. 10–6 by appointment.
Fodor’s Choice | Scribe.
Andrew and Adam Mariani, sons of California walnut growers, established Scribe in 2007 on land first planted to grapes in 1858 by Emil Dresel, a German immigrant. Dresel’s claims to fame include cultivating Sonoma’s first Riesling and Sylvaner, an achievement the brothers honor by growing both these varietals on land he once farmed. Using natural wine-making techniques they craft bright, terroir-driven wines from those grapes, along with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Tastings take place at weathered picnic tables on an oak-shaded knoll overlooking some of Scribe’s vineyards. A 1915 Mission Revival–style hacienda nearby is being restored for use as a tasting space. During Prohibition it served as a hideout for bootleggers, and its basement harbored a speakeasy, two of many intriguing tales associated with this historic property. | 2100 Denmark St., off Napa Rd. | Sonoma | 707/939–1858 | scribewinery.com | Tasting price varies; contact winery | Daily by appointment.
Sonoma Mission.
The northernmost of the 21 missions established by Franciscan friars in California, Sonoma Mission was founded in 1823 as Mission San Francisco Solano. It serves as the centerpiece of Sonoma State Historic Park, which includes several other sites in Sonoma and nearby Petaluma. Some early mission structures were destroyed, but all or part of several remaining buildings date to the days of Mexican rule over California. These include the Sonoma Barracks, a half block west of the mission at 20 East Spain Street, which housed troops under the command of General Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo, who controlled vast tracks of land in the region. The modest museum contains displays about the missions and information about the other historic sites. | 114 E. Spain St., at 1st St. E | Sonoma | 707/938–9560 | www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=479 | $3, includes same-day admission to other historic sites | Daily 10–5.
Fodor’s Choice | Walt Wines.
You could spend a full day sampling wines in the tasting rooms bordering Sonoma Plaza, but one not to miss is Walt, which specializes in Pinot Noir and makes two Chardonnays. Fruit-forward yet subtle, the Pinots win over even the purists who pine for the genre’s days of lighter, more perfumey vintages. Some of the Pinots come from Sonoma County grapes but others are from ones grown in Mendocino County (just north of Sonoma County), California’s Central Coast, and Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Critics routinely bestow high ratings on all these wines. | 380 1st St. W, at W. Spain St. | Sonoma | 707/933–4440 | www.waltwines.com | Tastings $20 | Daily 11–6.
Worth Noting
Buena Vista Winery.
The site where modern California wine making got its start has been transformed into an entertaining homage to the accomplishments of the 19th-century wine pioneer Count Agoston Haraszthy. Tours pass through the original aging caves dug deep into the hillside by Chinese laborers, and banners, photos, and artifacts inside and out convey the history made on this site. Reserve tastings ($40) include library and current wines, plus ones still aging in barrels. The stylish former press house (used for pressing grapes into wine), which dates to 1862, hosts the standard tastings. TIP Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs from Los Carneros AVA are this winery’s strong suits. | 18000 Old Winery Rd., off E. Napa St. | Sonoma | 800/926–1266 | www.buenavistawinery.com | Tastings $15–$40; tours $10–$35 | Daily 10–5; tours by appointment.
Where to Eat
Fodor’s Choice | Cafe La Haye.
$$$ | AMERICAN | In a postage-stamp-size open kitchen, the skillful chef turns out main courses that star on a small but worthwhile seasonal menu emphasizing local ingredients. Chicken, beef, pasta, and fish get deluxe treatment without fuss or fanfare—the daily roasted chicken and the risotto specials are always good. Butterscotch pudding is a homey signature dessert. The dining room is compact, but the friendly owner, always there to greet diners, maintains a particularly welcoming vibe. | Average main: $24 | 140 E. Napa St., at 1st St. E | Sonoma | 707/935–5994 | www.cafelahaye.com | Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.
Fodor’s Choice | El Dorado Kitchen.
$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | The visual delights at this winning restaurant include its clean lines and handsome decor, but the eye inevitably drifts westward to the open kitchen, where chef Armando Navarro and his diligent crew craft flavorful dishes full of subtle surprises. Focusing on locally sourced ingredients, the menu might include bomba-rice paella awash with seafood and linguica sausage, or duck confit accompanied by farro salad, kale, mushrooms, and almonds. Even a simple dish like truffle-oil fries, liberally sprinkled with Parmesan, charms with its combination of tastes and textures. The noteworthy desserts include profiteroles with toasted marshmallow and chocolate ganache, and cornbread French toast with strawberries and buttermilk sherbet. | Average main: $26 | El Dorado Hotel,405 1st St. W, at W. Spain St. | Sonoma | 707/996–3030 | www.eldoradosonoma.com/restaurant.
Fodor’s Choice | Harvest Moon Cafe.
$$$ | AMERICAN | It’s easy to feel like one of the family at this little restaurant with an odd, zigzagging layout. Diners seated at one of the two tiny bars chat with the servers like old friends, but the husband-and-wife team in the kitchen is serious about the food, much of which relies on local produce. The ever-changing menu might include homey dishes such as grilled pork loin with crispy polenta and artichokes, Niman Ranch rib-eye steak with a tomatillo salsa and Zinfandel reduction, or pan-seared Hawaiian Ono with jasmine rice, and eggplant. Everything is so perfectly executed and the vibe is so genuinely warm that a visit here is deeply satisfying. TIP A spacious back patio with tables arranged around a fountain more than doubles the seating; a heated tent keeps this area warm in winter. | Average main: $25 | 487 1st St. W, at W. Napa St. | Sonoma | 707/933–8160 | www.harvestmooncafesonoma.com | Closed Tues. No lunch.
LaSalette.
$$$ | PORTUGUESE | Born in the Azores and raised in Sonoma, chef-owner Manuel Azevedo serves dishes inspired by his native Portugal in this warmly decorated spot. The best seats are on a patio along an alleyway off Sonoma Plaza. Boldly flavored dishes such as pork tenderloin recheado, stuffed with olives and almonds and topped with a Port sauce, might be followed by a dish of rice pudding with Madeira-braised figs or a Port from the varied list. TIP The daily seafood specials are well worth a try, especially the whole fish. | Average main: $24 | 452 1st St. E, near E. Spain St. | Sonoma | 707/938–1927 | www.lasalette-restaurant.com.
Oso.
$$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Owner-chef David Bush, who achieved national recognition for his food and wine pairings at St. Francis Winery, struck out on his own in late 2014, opening this restaurant whose name, Spanish for “bear,” acknowledges the nearby spot where rebels raised a flag depicting a bear and declared California’s independence from Mexico. Bush serves tapas-size dishes à la carte and prepares a five-course tasting menu with optional wine pairings. An early menu included pickled shrimp with a red cabbage, kale, and peanut slaw à la carte and Syrah-braised short ribs for the tasting. Oso’s contemporary barlike space’s design incorporates materials reclaimed from previous incarnations of its building, erected in the 1890s as a livery stable. TIP Reservations are required for the tasting but aren’t accepted otherwise. | Average main: $32 | 9 E. Napa St., at Broadway | Sonoma | 707/931–6926 | ososonoma.com | No lunch.
Fodor’s Choice | Santé.
$$$$ | AMERICAN | This elegant dining room has evolved into a destination restaurant through its focus on seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. The room is understated, with dark walls and soft lighting, but the food is anything but. Dishes such as the Sonoma Liberty duck breast and confit leg, served with pearl barley “risotto,” sweet carrot puree, and maple duck jus, are sophisticated without being fussy. Others, like the sampler of Niman Ranch beef that includes a petite filet mignon, a skirt steak, and braised pavé beef à la bourguignonne, are pure decadence. The restaurant offers a seasonal tasting menu ($149). | Average main: $43 | Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa,100 Boyes Blvd./Hwy. 12, 2½ miles north of Sonoma Plaza | Boyes Hot Springs | 707/938–9000 | www.santediningroom.com | No lunch.
Sunflower Caffé.
$ | AMERICAN | The food at this casual eatery, mostly salads and sandwiches, is simple but satisfying. Highlights include the smoked duck breast sandwich, served on a baguette and slathered with caramelized onions. A meal of soup and local cheeses is a good option if you just want to nibble. Both the pretty patio, which is in the back, and the sidewalk seating area facing Sonoma Plaza are equipped with heating lamps and get plenty of shade, so they’re comfortable in all but the most inclement weather. Cheerful artworks brighten up the interior, where locals hunker over their computers and take advantage of the free Wi-Fi. Omelets and waffles are the stars at breakfast. | Average main: $13 | 421 1st St. W, at W. Spain St. | Sonoma | 707/996–6645 | www.sonomasunflower.com | No dinner.
Where to Stay
Inn at Sonoma.
$$ | B&B/INN | They don’t skimp on the little luxuries here: wine and cheese is served every evening in the lobby, and the cheerfully painted rooms are warmed by gas fireplaces. In the closets are fluffy terry robes, which come in handy for trips to the hot tub on the inn’s upper level. A teddy bear perched on each feather comforter–topped bed holds a remote control to a small TV. Though the inn is just off heavily trafficked Broadway, good soundproofing makes it quieter than many of the hotels on Sonoma Plaza (a five-minute walk away). Though rooms are not particularly large, you’d be hard pressed to find this much charm for the price elsewhere in town. Pros: last-minute specials are a great deal; free soda available in the lobby; free Wi-Fi. Cons: on a busy street rather than right on the plaza. | Rooms from: $220 | 630 Broadway | Sonoma | 707/939–1340, 888/568–9818 | www.innatsonoma.com | 27 rooms | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice | MacArthur Place Hotel & Spa.
$$$$ | HOTEL | Guests at this 7-acre boutique property five blocks south of Sonoma Plaza bask in ritzy seclusion in plush accommodations set amid landscaped gardens. A color palette of deep yellows and rich browns sets a luxe yet soothing tone in the public spaces and the rooms (some as large as 750 square feet) and two suite-size cottages. The furnishings and fabrics are equally high style, and all accommodations have LED TVs, coffeemakers, safes, and refrigerators. Garden spa rooms have sizable bathrooms and outdoor private gardens with teak soaking tubs shaped like large wine barrels. The room rate includes a filling continental breakfast. Pros: secluded garden setting; high-style furnishings; on-site steak house. Cons: a bit of a walk from the plaza; some traffic noise audible in street-side rooms. | Rooms from: $425 | 29 E. MacArthur St. | Sonoma | 707/938–2929, 800/722–1866 | www.macarthurplace.com | 62 rooms, 2 cottage suites | Breakfast.
FAMILY | Sonoma Creek Inn.
$ | B&B/INN | The small but cheerful rooms at this motel-style inn are individually decorated with painted wooden armoires, cozy quilts, and brightly colored contemporary artwork. Most rooms even have vaulted ceilings, and many have small patios with a little fountain. Free roll-away beds for kids and an independently owned diner attached to the property make it an especially family-friendly option. Expect to see spandex-clad guests all about the inn, which is popular with pro bicyclists and serious amateurs. Pros: clean, well-lighted bathrooms; lots of charm for the price; popular with bicyclists. Cons: office not staffed 24 hours a day; a 10-minute drive from Sonoma Plaza. | Rooms from: $145 | 239 Boyes Blvd., off Hwy. 12 | Sonoma | 707/939–9463, 888/712–1289 | www.sonomacreekinn.com | 16 rooms | No meals.
Spas
Willow Stream Spa at Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa.
With 40,000 square feet and 30 treatment rooms, the Wine Country’s largest spa provides every amenity you could possibly want, including pools and hot tubs fed by local thermal springs. Although the place bustles with patrons in summer and on some weekends, the vibe is always soothing. The signature bathing ritual includes an exfoliating shower, dips in two mineral-water soaking pools, an herbal steam, a dry sauna, and cool-down showers. Other popular treatments include the warm ginger-oil float, which involves relaxation in a weightless environment, and the perennially popular caviar facial. The most requested room among couples is outfitted with a two-person copper bathtub. | 100 Boyes Blvd./Hwy. 12, 2½ miles north of Sonoma Plaza | Boyes Hot Springs | 707/938–9000 | www.fairmont.com/sonoma/willow-stream | Treatments $65–$485.
Shopping
Sonoma Plaza is a shopping magnet, with tempting boutiques and specialty food purveyors facing the square or within a block or two.
Fodor’s Choice | Chateau Sonoma.
The fancy furniture, lighting fixtures, and objets d’art at this upscale shop make it a dangerous place to enter: after just a few minutes you may find yourself reconsidering your entire home’s aesthetic. The owner’s keen eye for style and sense of whimsy make a visit here a delight. | 153 W. Napa St., near 2nd St. W | Sonoma | 707/935–8553 | www.chateausonoma.com.
Fodor’s Choice | Sonoma Valley Certified Farmers Market.
To discover just how bountiful the Sonoma landscape is—and how talented its farmers and food artisans are—head to Depot Park, just north of the Sonoma Plaza, on Friday morning. From April through October, the market gets extra play on Tuesday evening in Sonoma Plaza. | Depot Park,1st St. W, at Sonoma Bike Path | Sonoma | 707/538–7023 | www.svcfm.org.
Glen Ellen
7 miles north of Sonoma.
Unlike its flashier Napa Valley counterparts, Glen Ellen eschews well-groomed sidewalks lined with upscale boutiques and restaurants, preferring instead its crooked streets, some with no sidewalks at all, shaded with stands of old oak trees. Jack London, who represents Glen Ellen’s rugged spirit, lived in the area for many years; the town commemorates him with place names and nostalgic establishments. Hidden among sometimes-ramshackle buildings abutting Sonoma and Calabasas creeks are low-key shops and galleries worth poking through, and several fine dining establishments.
Getting Here and Around
Glen Ellen sits just off Highway 12. From the north or south, take Arnold Drive west and follow it south less than a mile. The walkable downtown straddles a half-mile stretch of Arnold Drive.
Exploring
Fodor’s Choice | Benziger Family Winery.
One of the best-known Sonoma County wineries sits on a sprawling estate in a bowl with 360-degree sun exposure, the benefits of which are explored on popular tram tours that depart several times daily. Guides explain Benziger’s biodynamic farming practices and give you a glimpse of the extensive cave system. The regular tram tour costs $25; another tour costing $50 concludes with a seated tasting. Noted for its Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Sauvignon Blanc wines, the winery is a beautiful spot for a picnic. TIP Reserve a seat on the tram tour through the winery’s website or arrive early in the day on summer weekends and during harvest season. | 1883 London Ranch Rd., off Arnold Dr. | Glen Ellen | 707/935–3000, 888/490–2739 | www.benziger.com | Tastings $15–$40, tours $25–$50 | Daily 10–5; tours daily 11–3:30 except noon on the ½ hr (reservation recommended).
Fodor’s Choice | Jack London State Historic Park.
The pleasures are both pastoral and intellectual at the late writer Jack London’s beloved Beauty Ranch. You could easily spend the afternoon hiking the 20-plus miles of trails that loop through meadows and stands of oaks, redwoods, and other trees. Manuscripts and personal artifacts depicting London’s travels are on view at the House of Happy Walls Museum, which provides a tantalizing overview of the author’s life and literary passions. A short hike away lie the ruins of Wolf House, which mysteriously burned down just before the writer was to move in. Also open to the public are a few farm outbuildings and the completely restored Cottage, a wood-framed building where London penned many of his later works. He’s buried on the property. | 2400 London Ranch Rd., off Arnold Dr. | Glen Ellen | 707/938–5216 | www.jacklondonpark.com | Parking $10 ($5 walk-in or bike), includes admission to museum; cottage $4 | Mar.–Nov., park daily 9:30–5, museum 10–5, cottage noon–4; Dec.–Feb., Thurs.–Mon. park 9:30–5, museum 10–5, cottage noon–4.
Where to Eat
Fodor’s Choice | Aventine Glen Ellen.
$$ | ITALIAN | A Wine Country cousin to chef Adolfo Veronese’s same-named San Francisco and Hollywood establishments, this Italian restaurant occupies an 1839 sawmill from California’s Mexican period. Evidence of the building’s early lives—in 1856 it was converted into a gristmill—can be seen in the old-redwood walls and exposed ceiling beams. Veronese’s varied menu includes a half dozen pizzas (the seasonal one with black truffle honey, béchamel, and wild arugula is a savory masterpiece), an equal number of pasta dishes, a risotto of the day, and several meat and fish entrées. All are deftly constructed, and the chicken parmigiana has aroused envy among local Sicilian grandmothers. TIP In good weather you can dine on a patio that overlooks Sonoma Creek, which powered the mill in days of yore. | Average main: $19 | Jack London Village,14301 Arnold Dr., ¾ mile south of downtown | Glen Ellen | 707/934–8911 | www.aventineglenellen.com | Closed Mon. No lunch.
The Fig Cafe.
$$ | FRENCH | The compact menu at this cheerful bistro, a Glen Ellen fixture, focuses on California and French comfort food—pot roast and duck confit, for instance, as well as thin-crust pizza. Steamed mussels are served with terrific crispy fries, which also accompany the sirloin burger. Weekend brunch brings out locals and tourists for French toast, pizza with applewood-smoked bacon and poached eggs, corned-beef hash, and other delights. TIP The unusual no-corkage-fee policy makes this a great place to drink the wine you discovered down the road. | Average main: $18 | 13690 Arnold Dr., at O’Donnell La. | Glen Ellen | 707/938–2130 | www.thefigcafe.com | Reservations not accepted | No lunch weekdays.
Fodor’s Choice | Glen Ellen Star.
$$ | ECLECTIC | Chef Ari Weiswasser honed his craft at The French Laundry, Daniel, and other bastions of culinary finesse, but the goal at his Wine Country boîte is haute-rustic cuisine, much of which emerges from a wood-fired oven that burns a steady 600°F. Pizzas such as the crisp-crusted, richly sauced Margherita thrive in the torrid heat, as do root and other vegetables roasted in small iron skillets. Ditto for entrées that include juicy, tender roasted whole fish. Weiswasser signs each dish with a sauce, emulsion, or sly blend of spices that jazzes things up without upstaging the primary ingredient. The restaurant’s decor is equally restrained, with an open-beam ceiling, exposed hardwood floors, and utilitarian seating. TIP Many regulars perch on a stool at the kitchen-view counter to watch the chefs at work. | Average main: $22 | 13648 Arnold Dr., at Warm Springs Rd. | Glen Ellen | 707/343–1384 | glenellenstar.com | Reservations essential | No lunch.
Where to Stay
Fodor’s Choice | Gaige House.
$$ | B&B/INN | Asian objets d’art and leather club chairs cozied up to the lobby fireplace are just a few of the graceful touches in this luxurious but understated bed-and-breakfast. Rooms in the main house, an 1890 Queen Anne, are mostly done in pale colors, and each has its advantages. One upstairs room has wraparound windows to let in floods of light, and the lavish creek-side cottages feel Japanese, with massive granite soaking tubs overlooking private atriums. Magnolia trees shade the backyard, where there’s a small but idyllic swimming pool and hot tub. Though the staff is helpful, the service never seems fussy, and there’s a bottomless jar of cookies in the common area. Pros: beautiful lounge areas; lots of privacy; excellent service; full breakfasts, afternoon wine and appetizers. Cons: sound carries in the main house; the least expensive rooms are on the small side. | Rooms from: $275 | 13540 Arnold Dr. | Glen Ellen | 707/935–0237, 800/935–0237 | www.gaige.com | 10 rooms, 13 suites | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice | Olea Hotel.
$$ | B&B/INN | The husband-and-wife team of Ashish and Sia Patel operate this boutique lodging that’s at once sophisticated and down-home country casual. The attention to detail impresses most visitors almost instantly, from the exterior landscaping to the colors and surfaces in both the guest rooms and the public spaces. The rooms, ample in size if not huge (there are also two larger cottages), are furnished with comfortable beds and have fancy bathrooms stocked with EO bath products. The on-site chef, the amiable Khambay Porterkhamsy, prepares an ever-evolving complimentary breakfast that’s worthy of a five-star hotel. Pros: beautiful style; welcoming staff; chef-prepared breakfasts; complimentary wine throughout stay. Cons: fills up quickly on weekends; minor road noise in some rooms. | Rooms from: $288 | 5131 Warm Springs Rd., west off Arnold Dr. | Glen Ellen | 707/996–5131 | www.oleahotel.com | 10 rooms, 2 cottages | Breakfast.
Kenwood
3 miles north of Glen Ellen.
Tiny Kenwood consists of little more than a few restaurants and shops and a historic train depot. But hidden in this pretty landscape of meadows and woods at the north end of Sonoma Valley are several good wineries, most just off the Sonoma Highway (Highway 12).
Getting Here and Around
To get to Kenwood from Glen Ellen, drive north on Highway 12.
Exploring
B Wise Vineyards Cellar.
Although the stylish roadside tasting room of this producer of small-lot red wines sits on the valley floor in Kenwood, B Wise’s winery and vineyards, 8½ miles to the southeast, occupy a prime spot high in the new Moon Mountain appellation. Owner-winemaker Brion Wise made his name crafting big, bold Cabernets. One comes from Wise’s mountain estate and another from the nearby Monte Rosso Vineyard, some of whose Cabernet vines are among California’s oldest. These hearty mountain-fruit Cabs contrast pleasingly with a suppler one from the Napa Valley’s Coombsville AVA. Wise also makes estate Syrah, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot, and Zinfandel wines, along with Sonoma Coast and Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noirs and several red blends. | 9077 Sonoma Hwy., at Shaw Ave. | Kenwood | 707/282–9169 | www.bwisevineyards.com | Tastings $15–$25 | Daily 10:30–5:30.
Kunde Estate Winery & Vineyards.
On your way into Kunde you pass a terrace flanked by fountains, virtually coaxing you to stay for a picnic with views over the vineyard. Best known for its toasty Chardonnays, the winery also makes well-regarded Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Zinfandel wines. Among the Destination wines available only through the winery, the Dunfillan Cuvée, a blend of Cabernet and Syrah grapes, is worth checking out. The free basic tour of the grounds includes the caves, some of which stretch 175 feet below a vineyard. TIP Reserve ahead for the Mountain Top Tasting, a popular tour that ends with a sampling of reserve wines ($40). | 9825 Sonoma Hwy./Hwy. 12 | Kenwood | 707/833–5501 | www.kunde.com | Tastings $10–$40, tours free–$50 | Daily 10:30–5, tours daily at various times.
St. Francis Winery.
Nestled at the foot of Mt. Hood, St. Francis has earned national acclaim for its food-and-wine pairings. With its red-tile roof and dramatic bell tower, the winery’s California Mission–style visitor center occupies one of Sonoma’s most scenic locations. The charm of the surroundings is matched by the wines, most of them red, including rich, earthy Zinfandels from the Dry Creek, Russian River, and Sonoma valleys. Chef Bryan Jones’s five-course small bites and wine pairings ($50)—Liberty duck breast cassoulet with one of the Zins, for example—are offered from Thursday through Monday; pairings with cheeses and charcuterie ($30) are available daily. | 100 Pythian Rd., off Hwy. 12 | Kenwood | 888/675–9463, 707/833–6146 | www.stfranciswinery.com | Tastings $10–$50 | Daily 10–5; tour Fri.–Sun at 11:30.
Where to Eat and Stay
Café Citti.
$ | ITALIAN | Classical music in the background, a friendly staff, and a roaring fire when it’s cold outside keep this roadside café from feeling too spartan. Order dishes such as roast chicken and slabs of tiramisu from the counter and they’re delivered to your table, indoors or on an outdoor patio. The array of prepared salads and sandwiches means the café does a brisk business in takeout for picnic packers, but you can also choose pasta made to order. | Average main: $13 | 9049 Sonoma Hwy./Hwy. 12 | Kenwood | 707/833–2690 | www.cafecitti.com | Reservations not accepted.
Fodor’s Choice | Kenwood Inn and Spa.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | Fluffy featherbeds, wood-burning fireplaces, and French doors opening onto terraces or balconies give the uncommonly spacious guest rooms at this inn a particularly romantic air. Two outdoor heated saline pools, sunning areas, and a hot tub pepper three atmospheric courtyards, and you could easily spend an afternoon padding from one to the next in your robe and slippers. Buildings resembling graceful haciendas and the mature fruit trees shading the courtyards make it seem as though this inn has been here for a century or more (it was actually built in 1990). The spa is intimate but well equipped, and the chefs at the tiny on-site restaurant turn out exquisite meals. Pros: large rooms; lavish furnishings; excellent restaurant; rich full breakfast; romantic. Cons: road or lobby noise in some rooms; expensive. | Rooms from: $495 | 10400 Sonoma Hwy./Hwy. 12 | Kenwood | 707/833–1293, 800/353–6966 | www.kenwoodinn.com | 25 rooms, 4 suites | Breakfast.