Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents
Bodega Bay | Jenner | Fort Ross State Historic Park | Salt Point State Park
Bodega Bay
23 miles west of Santa Rosa.
From the busy harbor here, commercial boats pursue fish and Dungeness crab. There’s nothing quaint about this working town without a center—it’s just a string of businesses along several miles of Highway 1. But some tourists still come to see where Alfred Hitchcock shot The Birds in 1962. The Tides Wharf complex, an important location used for the movie, has been expanded and remodeled several times and is no longer recognizable. But a few miles inland, in Bodega, you can find Potter Schoolhouse, which is now a private residence.
Getting Here and Around
To reach Bodega Bay, exit U.S. 101 at Santa Rosa and take Highway 12 west (it’s called Bodega Highway west of Sebastopol) 23 miles to the coast. A scenic alternative is to take U.S. 101’s East Washington Street/Central Petaluma exit and follow signs west to Bodega Bay; just after you merge onto Highway 1, you’ll pass through down-home Valley Ford. Mendocino Transit Authority (mendocinotransit.org) Route 95 buses connect Bodega Bay with coastal towns and Santa Rosa.
Beaches
Fodor’s Choice | Sonoma Coast State Park.
The park’s gorgeous sandy coves stretch for 17 miles from Bodega Head to 4 miles north of Jenner. Bodega Head is an especially popular perch for whale watchers, though if you’re lucky you’ll catch sight of migrating whales from any of the beaches. Rock Point, Duncan’s Landing, and Wright’s Beach, clustered at about the halfway mark, have picnic areas, as do several other spots. Rogue waves have swept people off the rocks at Duncan’s Landing, so don’t stray past signs warning you away. Relatively calmer Shell Beach, about 2 miles north, is known for beachcombing, tide pools, and fishing. About 2½ miles north of Shell Beach, near the mouth of the Russian River at Jenner, a long road leads from the highway to Goat Rock. Harbor seals lounge at the beach here; pupping season is from March through August. Bring binoculars and walk north from the parking lot to view the seals. During summer lifeguards are on duty at some beaches, but strong rip currents and heavy surf keep most would-be swimmers on shore. Wright’s Beach and Bodega Dunes have developed campsites. Amenities: parking; toilets. Best For: solitude; sunset; walking. | Park Headquarters/Salmon Creek Ranger Station,3095 Hwy. 1, 2 miles north of Bodega Bay | 707/875–3483 | www.parks.ca.gov | $8 per vehicle | Daily 8 am–sunset (some beach hrs may be curtailed because of budget cuts).
Where to Eat and Stay
Sandpiper Restaurant.
$$ | SEAFOOD | A local favorite with big windows for bay views, this friendly café on the marina does a good job for a fair price. Peruse the board for the day’s fresh catch or order a menu regular such as crab stew, steak, or prawns; clam chowder is the house specialty. This is also a popular breakfast spot. | Average main: $22 | 1400 N. Hwy. 1 | 707/875–2278 | www.sandpiperbodegabay.com.
Bodega Bay Lodge.
$$$ | HOTEL | Looking out to the ocean across a wetland, the lodge’s shingle-and-river-rock buildings contain Bodega Bay’s finest accommodations. Spacious rooms are appointed with high-quality bedding; almost all have fireplaces, patios or balconies, and ocean views, while some have vaulted ceilings and jetted tubs. In the health complex, state-of-the-art fitness equipment sparkles and the spa provides a full roster of pampering treatments. The quiet Duck Club restaurant ($$$–$$$$; no lunch), a notch or two above most places in town, hits more than it misses; in season, try the Dungeness crab cakes with tomato-ginger chutney. Pros: most rooms have fireplaces and patios; variety of pampering treatments; ocean views. Cons: on the pricey side. | Rooms from: $239 | 103 Coast Hwy. 1 | 707/875–3525, 888/875–2250 | www.bodegabaylodge.com | 78 rooms, 5 suites | No meals.
Bodega Harbor Inn.
$ | HOTEL | As humble as can be, this is one of the few places on this stretch of the coast with rooms for less than $100 a night. All rooms are small and clean, some of them decorated with tile or wood laminate floors and a few antiques. A few rooms have harbor views, which all guests can enjoy from the shared lawn area with picnic tables and lounge chairs. You can also rent an apartment or house nearby (from $145 to $375). The motel is at the north end of town on a side street off Highway 1, behind Pelican Plaza shopping center. Pros: budget choice; rooms for larger groups. Cons: an older facility. | Rooms from: $85 | 1345 Bodega Ave. | 707/875–3594 | www.bodegaharborinn.com | 14 rooms, 2 suites | No meals.
Sports and the Outdoors
Golf
The Links at Bodega Harbour.
Robert Trent Jones II designed this Scottish-style, incredibly scenic, and fairly challenging 18-hole oceanfront course. Rates include a golf cart. | 21301 Heron Dr. | 707/875–3538, 866/905–4657 | www.bodegaharbourgolf.com | $60 for weekdays; $90 for weekends | 18 holes, 6290 yards, par 70.
Horseback Riding
Horse N Around Trail Rides.
Saddle up at this ranch for guided horseback trail rides, some along the beach. Reservations are required. | 2660 N. Hwy. 1 | 707/875–8849 | www.horsenaroundtrailrides.com | From $40.
Whale-Watching
Bodega Bay Sportfishing.
This outfit charters ocean-fishing boats, rents equipment, and conducts whale-watching trips from midwinter through spring. | 1410 B Bay Flat Rd. | 707/875–3344 | www.bodegabaysportfishing.com | Outings from $70.
Jenner
10 miles north of Bodega Bay.
The broad, lazy Russian River empties into the Pacific Ocean at Jenner, a wide spot in the road where houses dot a mountainside high above the sea. Facing south, the village looks across the river’s mouth to Goat Rock State Beach.
Getting Here and Around
From U.S. 101 in Santa Rosa drive west on Highway 12 (Bodega Highway west of Sebastopol) 23 miles to the coast, then travel 10 miles north on Highway 1. From Santa Rosa you can also take Highway 116 west through Guerneville (about 33 miles to Jenner). Mendocino Transit Authority (mendocinotransit.org)Route 95 buses stop in Jenner and connect with Bodega Bay, Santa Rosa, and other coastal towns.
Fort Ross State Historic Park
22 miles north of Bodega Bay.
With its reconstructed Russian Orthodox chapel, stockade, and officials’ quarters, Fort Ross looks much the way it did after the Russians made it their major California coastal outpost in 1812. An excellent museum documents the fort’s history.
Getting Here and Around
From Santa Rosa, head west on Highway 116 about 33 miles to Jenner, then north 12 miles on Highway 1 to the park entrance. The Mendocino Transit Authority (mendocinotransit.org) Route 95 bus provides service between Fort Ross and other coastal towns.
Exploring
FAMILY | Fort Ross State Historic Park.
Russian settlers established Fort Ross in 1812 on land they leased from the native Kashia people. The Russians hoped to gain a foothold in the Pacific coast’s warmer regions and to produce crops and other supplies for their Alaskan fur-trading operations. In 1841, with the local marine mammal population depleted and farming having proven unproductive, the Russians sold their holdings to John Sutter of gold-rush fame. The land was privately ranched for decades, and became a state park in 1909. One original Russian-era structure remains, as does a cemetery. The rest of the compound has been reconstructed to look much as it did during Russian times. An excellent small museum documents the history of the fort, the Kashia people, and the ranch and state-park eras. | 19005 Hwy. 1 | Jenner | 707/847–3437 | www.fortross.org | $8 per vehicle | Hrs vary with season (call or check website), but usually open Fri.–Mon. 10–4:30 | No dogs allowed past parking lot and picnic area.
Salt Point State Park
6 miles north of Fort Ross.
Enjoy dramatic views, forested acres, and a rocky, rugged shoreline along Highway 1’s 5-mile route through this park. With 20 miles of hiking trails and a variety of picnicking, horseback riding, scuba diving, and fishing opportunities, you’ll want to stay a while.
Getting Here and Around
Exit U.S. 101 in Santa Rosa and travel west on Highway 116 about 33 miles to Jenner, then north 18 miles on Highway 1 to reach the park. Mendocino Transit Authority (mendocinotransit.org) Route 95 buses stop at Salt Point and connect with other North Coast towns.
Exploring
Salt Point State Park.
For 5 miles, Highway 1 winds through this park, 6,000 acres of forest, meadows, and rocky shoreline. Heading north, the first park entrance (on the right) leads to forest hiking trails and several campgrounds. The next entrance—the park’s main road—winds through meadows and along the wave-splashed coastline. This is also the route to the visitor center and Gerstle Cove, a favorite spot for scuba divers and sunbathing seals. Next along the highway is Stump Beach Cove, with picnic tables, toilets, and a ¼-mile walk to the sandy beach. The park’s final entrance is at Fisk Mill Cove, where centuries of wind and rain erosion have carved unusual honeycomb patterns in the sandstone called “tafonis.” A five-minute walk uphill from the parking lot leads to a dramatic view of Sentinel Rock, an excellent spot for sunsets.
Just up the highway, narrow, unpaved Kruse Ranch Road leads to the Kruse Rhododendron State Reserve, where each May thousands of rhododendrons bloom within a quiet forest of redwoods and tan oaks. | 25050 Hwy. 1 | 707/847–3221, 707/865–2391 | www.parks.ca.gov | $8 per vehicle | Daily sunrise–sunset; some sections closed in winter, call ahead.
Where to Stay
Sea Ranch Lodge.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | Wide-open ocean-view vistas and minimalist design keep the focus on nature at this tranquil lodge 29 miles north of Jenner. Picture windows overlook trails along the bluff and out to a lofty point. Plank-panel walls and ceilings, goose-down comforters, and robes make large recently renovated rooms cozy on foggy nights. Some home rentals are also available. The noteworthy restaurant ($$$) serves a changing lineup of fish, chicken, and beef selections with seasonal vegetables; there’s also a bar menu. Pros: all rooms are oceanfront; on-site spa; peaceful. Cons: remote. | Rooms from: $279 | 60 Sea Walk Dr. | Sea Ranch | 707/785–2371, 800/732–7262 | www.searanchlodge.com | 19 rooms | Breakfast.