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Gualala | Point Arena | Elk | Anderson Valley | Little River | Mendocino | Fort Bragg
Gualala
16 miles north of Salt Point State Park.
This former lumber port on the Gualala River has become a headquarters for exploring the coast. The busiest town on Highway 1 between Bodega Bay and Mendocino, it has all the basic services plus some galleries and gift shops.
Getting Here and Around
From San Francisco, take U.S. 101 to the East Washington Street/Central Petaluma exit and follow signs west through Valley Ford (you’re on Highway 1 by this point) to Bodega Bay. From there, continue north on Highway 1. From Ukiah, exit U.S. 101 at Highway 253, driving southwest to Boonville/Highway 128. From Boonville, turn west on Mountain View Road, which winds 24 miles to Highway 1; from there, drive south 18½ miles. Mendocino Transit Authority (mendocinotransit.org) Routes 75 and 95 buses connect Gualala with coastal and inland towns.
Exploring
Gualala Arts Center.
Stop here to see free exhibits of regional art. The center also runs the Dolphin Gallery behind the post office in town. | 46501 Gualala Rd. | 707/884–1138 | www.gualalaarts.org | Weekdays 9–4, weekends noon–4.
Gualala Point Regional Park.
This 195-acre park with picnic areas and a long, sandy beach is an excellent whale-watching spot from December through April. Opposite the beach, along the Gualala River estuary, redwoods shade two-dozen campsites. Dogs must be on a leash at all times throughout the park. WARNING: Watch out for unpredictable sleeper waves, which are common along the North Coast. | 42401 Hwy. 1, 1 mile south of Gualala | 707/785–2377 | www.sonoma-county.org/parks/pk_glala.htm | $7 per vehicle (day use) | Daily 8 am–sunset.
Where to Eat and Stay
St. Orres.
$$$$ | AMERICAN | Resembling a traditional Russian dacha with two onion-dome towers, this intriguing lodge stands on 42 acres of redwood forest and meadow. In one of the towers is a spectacular atrium dining room. Here locally farmed and foraged ingredients appear in dishes such as garlic flan with black chanterelles and rack of venison medallions with wild huckleberries. The prix-fixe menu (from $45 to $50) includes soup and salad but no appetizer or dessert (available à la carte). Brunch and a bar menu are offered on weekends. | Average main: $48 | 36601 S. Hwy. 1, 3 miles north of Gualala | 707/884–3303 lodging, 707/884–3335 restaurant | www.saintorres.com | No lunch weekdays. Occasionally closed midweek in winter.
Fodor’s Choice | Mar Vista Cottages.
$$$ | HOTEL | Escape to nature and retro-charm at these refurbished, gadget-free 1930s cottages. Your daily activities here will include snipping flowers for a bouquet, harvesting a bounty of vegetables for dinner from the organic garden and greenhouse, finding a basket of freshly laid eggs at your door every morning, roaming open meadows with resident goats and chickens, and soaking in views of the blustery coastline. You won’t find a TV, phone, radio, or even a clock in the rooms, but you will find hardwood floors, fireplaces, embroidered curtains, a white-enamel stove in the full, if diminutive, kitchen, and straw sun hats hanging from hooks. For exercise, stroll the beautiful grounds or take a path to Fish Rock Beach. Smoking is not allowed anywhere on the property, and there’s a two-night minimum stay. Pros: commune-with-nature solitude; peaceful retreat. Cons: no other businesses within walking distance. | Rooms from: $185 | 35101 S. Hwy 1, 5 miles north of Gualala | 707/884–3522, 877/855–3522 | www.marvistamendocino.com | 8 1-bedroom cottages, 4 2-bedroom cottages | No meals.
Seacliff on the Bluff.
$$ | HOTEL | Wedged in back of a small shopping center, this motel is not much to look at, but you’ll spend your time here staring at the Pacific panorama because all rooms have ocean views. The rooms’ interiors are strictly standard issue, but surprising extras ice this cake: take the binoculars out to your balcony or patio; stay in and watch the sunset after a long soak in your jetted tub; snuggle into a robe and pop that complimentary sparkling cider in front of your gas fireplace. Upstairs rooms have cathedral ceilings; Wi-Fi is available throughout. Pros: budget choice; great views. Cons: limited dining options nearby. | Rooms from: $150 | 39140 S. Hwy. 1 | 707/884–1213, 800/400–5053 | www.seacliffmotel.com | 16 rooms | No meals.
Point Arena
15 miles north of Gualala.
Occupied by an eclectic mix of long-time locals and long-haired surfers, this former timber town on Highway 1 is part New Age, part rowdy, and always laid-back. The one road going west out of downtown will lead you to the harbor, where fishing boats unload sea urchins and salmon and there’s almost always someone riding the waves.
Getting Here and Around
To reach Point Arena from Santa Rosa, drive north on U.S. 101, exit at Cloverdale, and follow Highway 128 northwest 28 miles to Boonville. From Boonville take winding Mountain View Road west 24 miles to Highway 1. Point Arena is 4 miles south. From points north, exit U.S. 101 at Ukiah, take Highway 253 southwest to Boonville and follow Mountain View Road west to Highway 1 south. Mendocino Transit Authority (mendocinotransit.org) Routes 75 and 95 buses stop in Point Arena.
Exploring
Point Arena Lighthouse.
For an outstanding view of the ocean and, in winter, migrating whales, take the marked road off Highway 1 north of town to the 115-foot lighthouse. It’s possible to stay out here, in one of four rental units ($$), all of which have full kitchens. On weekends there’s a two-night minimum. | 45500 Lighthouse Rd., off Hwy. 1 | 707/882–2809, 877/725–4448 | www.pointarenalighthouse.com | Tour $7.50 | Late May–early Sept., daily 10–4:30; early Sept.–late May, daily 10–3:30.
Beaches
Manchester State Park.
Before slipping into the sea, the northernmost segment of the San Andreas Fault cuts through this park beloved by locals for its 5 miles of sandy, usually empty shoreline and trails that wind through dunes and wetlands. Hiking, bird-watching, and beach strolling are the popular activities here. There’s steelhead fishing at Brush and Alder creeks; beautiful coastal wildflowers bloom in early spring. Tundra swans overwinter in this area, and migrating whales are often spotted close to shore. Swimming and water sports are too dangerous because of the strong undertow. Dogs are not allowed on the beach. Amenities: parking (free). Best for: solitude; sunset; walking. | Park entrance,44500 Kinney La., off Hwy. 1, ½ mile north of Manchester | Manchester | 707/937–5804 | www.parks.ca.gov | Call park for hrs; it’s sometimes closed because of budget cuts.
Where to Eat
Arena Market and Café.
$ | CAFÉ | The simple café at this all-organic grocery store serves up hot soups, fine sandwiches, and has an ample salad bar. The market, which specializes in food from local farms, sells cheese, bread, and other picnic items. | Average main: $8 | 185 Main St. | 707/882–3663 | www.arenaorganics.org | Mon.–Sat. 7–7, Sun. 8–6.
Franny’s Cup and Saucer.
$ | CAFÉ | Aided by her mother Barbara, a former pastry chef at Chez Panisse, Franny turns out baked goods that are sophisticated and inventive. Morning favorites include scones and sweet pastries as well as savory twists. Specialty cakes are dazzling concoctions such as champagne cake layered with raspberries and lemon curd, or rich chocolate almond tortes spread with marzipan and berry preserves and iced with dark chocolate ganache. More familiar options at this delightful spot include fruit tarts and strawberry-apricot crisps, plus a mouth-watering assortment of cookies, candy, jams, and jellies. | Average main: $5 | 213 Main St. | 707/882–2500 | www.frannyscupandsaucer.com | No credit cards | Closed Sun.–Tues. No dinner.
Elk
33 miles north of Gualala.
In this quiet town on the cliff above Greenwood Cove, just about every spot has a view of the rocky coastline and stunning Pacific sunsets. A few restaurants and inns do business here, but aside from strolling the beach there’s little to occupy visitors. Families generally don’t stay in Elk, perhaps because it’s such a romantic place.
Getting Here and Around
To reach Elk from the south, exit U.S. 101 in Cloverdale and follow Highway 128 northwest 29 miles to Highway 1, then drive south 6 miles. From Eureka and other points north, exit U.S. 101 at Leggett and follow Highway 1 south. Mendocino Transit Authority (mendocinotransit.org) Route 75 buses serve Elk from other coastal towns.
Where to Eat and Stay
Queenie’s Roadhouse Cafe.
$ | AMERICAN | Locals usually occupy the chrome-and-patent-leather diner-style chairs at this favorite spot for big breakfasts (served all day) and casual lunches that include superb cheeseburgers. The wide windows provide a view of the Pacific to go with your coffee. If the day’s sunny, grab one of the two picnic tables out front. | Average main: $12 | 6061 S. Hwy. 1 | 707/877–3285 | www.queeniesroadhousecafe.com | Closed Tues. and Wed. Closed Jan. No dinner.
Fodor’s Choice | Elk Cove Inn & Spa.
$$$ | B&B/INN | Perched on a bluff above pounding surf and a driftwood-strewn beach, this property has stunning views from most rooms. The most romantic accommodations are in the pretty, antiquey cottage buildings, where each room is unique but all have peaked ceilings and hardwood floors. A newer Arts-and-Crafts-style building houses suites ($375–$395) with a more modern feel (including Jacuzzi tubs). All rooms include a lavish champagne breakfast in the main house as well as afternoon hors d’oeuvres with wine and cocktails. Spa treatments take place one at a time in a private building with a view of the ocean. If you want a massage, book early; the calendar is often full. With its quiet setting and high cliffs the inn is not ideal for young children; inquire by phone before booking. Pros: gorgeous views; great breakfast; steps to the beach. Cons: rooms in main house are smallish. | Rooms from: $155 | 6300 S. Hwy. 1 | 707/877–3321, 800/275–2967 | www.elkcoveinn.com | 8 rooms, 4 suites, 4 cottages | Breakfast.
Anderson Valley
29 miles north of Point Arena.
At the town of Albion, Highway 128 leads southeast into the Anderson Valley, where warm summer weather lures those weary of the persistent coastal fog. Most of the first 13 miles wind through redwood forest along the Navarro River, then the road opens up to reveal farms and vineyards. While the community here is anchored in ranching, in the past few decades a progressive, gourmet-minded counterculture has taken root, and that is what defines most visitors’ experiences. In the towns of Philo and Boonville, you’ll find eclectic bed-and-breakfasts and small eateries.
Anderson Valley is best known to outsiders for its wineries. Tasting rooms here are more low-key than their counterparts in Napa; most are in farmhouses, and you’re as likely to hear reggae as classical music as you sip. That said, Anderson Valley wineries produce world-class wines, particularly Pinot Noirs and Gewürztraminers, whose grapes thrive in the moderate coastal climate. Many wineries straddle Highway 128, mostly in Navarro and Philo with a few east of Boonville.
Getting Here and Around
From the coast, pick up Highway 128 at Albion. From inland points south, take Highway 128 northwest from U.S. 101 at Cloverdale. From inland points north, exit U.S. 101 in Ukiah and take Highway 253 southwest 17 miles to Boonville. Mendocino Transit Authority (mendocinotransit.org) Route 75 buses serve the Anderson Valley between the coast and Ukiah.
Exploring
Top Attractions
Goldeneye Winery.
The Napa Valley’s well-respected Duckhorn Wine Company makes stellar Pinot Noirs here from local grapes, along with a Gewürztraminer, a Pinot Gris, a Chardonnay, and a blush Vin Gris of Pinot Noir. Leisurely tastings take place in either a restored farmhouse or on a patio with vineyard and redwood views. | 9200 Hwy. 128 | Philo | 800/208–0438, 707/895–3202 | www.goldeneyewinery.com | Tastings $15–$35 | Mar.–Dec., daily 10:30–4:30; Jan. and Feb., Thurs.–Mon. 10:30–4:30.
Handley Cellars.
International folk art collected by winemaker Milla Handley adorns the tasting room at this Anderson Valley pioneer whose lightly oaked Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs earn high praise from wine critics. The winery, which has a patio picnic area, also makes Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling, and very good sparkling wines. | 3151 Hwy. 128 | Philo | 707/895–3876, 800/733–3151 | www.handleycellars.com | Tasting free | May–Oct., daily 10–6; Nov.–Apr., daily 10–5.
Navarro River Redwoods State Park.
Described by locals as the “11-mile-long redwood tunnel to the sea,” this park that straddles Highway 128 is great for walks amid second-growth redwoods and for summer swimming in the gentle Navarro River. In late winter and spring, when the river is higher, you also can fish, canoe, and kayak. The two campgrounds (one on the river “beach”) are quiet and clean. | Hwy. 128, 2 miles east of Hwy. 1 | Navarro | 707/937–5804 | www.parks.ca.gov.
Navarro Vineyards.
A visit to this family-run winery is a classic Anderson Valley experience. Make time if you can for a vineyard tour—the guides draw from years of hands-on experience to explain every aspect of production, from sustainable farming techniques to the choices made in aging and blending. Best known for Alsatian varietals such as Gewürztraminer and Riesling, Navarro also makes Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and other wines. The tasting room sells cheese and charcuterie for picnickers. | 5601 Hwy. 128 | Philo | 707/895–3686, 800/537–9463 | www.navarrowine.com | Tasting free | Apr.–Oct., daily 9–6; Nov.–Mar., daily 9–5; tour daily at 10:30 and 3 by appointment.
Roederer Estate.
The Anderson Valley is particularly hospitable to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes, the two varietals used to create Roederer’s well-regarded sparkling wines. The view of vineyards and rolling hills from the patio is splendid. | 4501 Hwy. 128 | Philo | 707/895–2288 | www.roedererestate.com | Tasting $6 | Daily 11–5.
Worth Noting
Greenwood Ridge Vineyards.
White Riesling is the specialty of this winery that also makes Pinot Noir, Syrah, and other wines. You can picnic here at tables on an island in the middle of a pond. | 5501 Hwy. 128 | Philo | 707/895–2002 | www.greenwoodridge.com | Tasting $5 | Daily 10–5.
Husch Vineyards.
A former pony barn houses the cozy tasting room of the Anderson Valley’s oldest winery. Wines of note include Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and a Zinfandel that’s made from old-vine grapes grown in the warmer Ukiah Valley. TIP You can picnic on the deck here or at tables under grape arbors. | 4400 Hwy. 128 | Philo | 800/554–8724 | www.huschvineyards.com | Tasting free | May–Sept., daily 10–6; Oct.–Apr., daily 10–5.
Where to Eat and Stay
The Boonville General Store.
$ | CAFÉ | The store’s café menu includes innovative comfort-food specials whose ingredients often come from area farms. Sandwiches are served on freshly baked bread, and the beet salad comes with roasted pecans and local blue cheese. Breakfast options include granola and pastries, made in-house. | Average main: $11 | 14077A Hwy. 128 | Boonville | 707/895–9477 | No dinner.
Fodor’s Choice | Table 128.
$$$$ | AMERICAN | The restaurant at the Boonville Hotel takes small-town dining into the 21st century. Proprietor Johnny Schmitt and his kitchen staff prepare one prix-fixe meal per night ($48 for three courses, $58 for four) and serve it family-style, with platters of food brought to the table to be shared. Expect an expertly grilled or roasted entrée (such as prosciutto-wrapped halibut, flank steak, or slow-roasted lamb), a sophisticated side dish (radicchio with polenta, perhaps, or curried cauliflower soup), and don’t forget dessert (linzer torte with Chantilly cream; local blackberry tart). This is essentially home cooking done at a high level, and despite the limited menu—posted a few days in advance on the restaurant’s website—most diners will leave satisfied. | Average main: $53 | 14050 Hwy. 128 | Boonville | 707/895–2210 | www.boonvillehotel.com | No lunch. Closed Mon.–Thurs. Nov.–Apr., closed Tues. and Wed. May–Oct.
Boonville Hotel.
$$$ | HOTEL | From the street this looks like a standard small-town hotel, but once you cross the threshold you begin to sense the laid-back sophistication that makes the entire Anderson Valley so appealing. Rooms are decorated with linens and perfectly weathered tiles; some are painted in soft shades of tangerine or lime, others with subdued earth tones brightened with sky blue. The largest rooms can accommodate three; the smallest are snug. Out back in the garden are free-standing cottages, including a well-appointed bungalow with a private porch and hammock. Public spaces include a large terrace and a sitting room with books, games, and a fireplace. Pros: stylish but homey; beautiful gardens and grounds. Cons: friendly but straightforward service—don’t expect to be pampered; two-night stay required on most weekends. | Rooms from: $195 | 14050 Hwy. 128 | Boonville | 707/895–2210 | www.boonvillehotel.com | 8 rooms, 7 cottages | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice | The Philo Apple Farm.
$$$ | HOTEL | Set in an orchard of organic heirloom apples, the three cottages and one guest room here are tasteful, inviting, and inspired by the surrounding landscape. It all feels very Provençal: the elegant country linens, the floral paintings adorning the walls, the gardens full of herbs and vegetables outside your door. On some weekends the cottages are reserved for people attending the highly respected on-site cooking school—two of the owners founded the renowned Napa Valley restaurant The French Laundry—but midweek a room is nearly always available. The farm stand sells the orchard’s apples and pears in season, plus delectable apricot, plum, raspberry, and other jams, including a superb orange marmalade. Pros: country charm; back-to-nature, off-the-grid experience. Cons: occasionally hot in summer. | Rooms from: $200 | 18501 Greenwood Rd. | Philo | 707/895–2333 | www.philoapplefarm.com | 1 room, 3 cottages | Breakfast.
Little River
5 miles north of Anderson Valley.
The town of Little River is not much more than a post office and a convenience store; Albion, its neighbor to the south, is even smaller. Along this winding portion of Highway 1, though, you’ll find numerous inns and restaurants, all of them quiet and situated to take advantage of the breathtaking ocean views.
Getting Here and Around
From inland points south, exit U.S. 101 at Cloverdale and follow Highway 128 northwest about 56 miles to Highway 1, then head north 7 miles. From points north, exit U.S. 101 in Ukiah at Highway 253 and follow it west 17 miles to Boonville, where you’ll pick up Highway 128 and drive northwest to Highway 1. Mendocino Transit Authority (mendocinotransit.org) Route 60 buses serve the area.
Exploring
Van Damme State Park.
Best known for its beach, this park is a prime abalone diving spot. Upland trails lead through lush riparian habitat and the bizarre Pygmy Forest, where acidic soil and poor drainage have produced mature cypress and pine trees that are no taller than a person. The visitor center has displays on ocean life and the historical significance of the redwood lumber industry along the coast. | Little River Park Rd., off Hwy. 1 | 707/937–5804 | www.parks.ca.gov.
Where to Eat and Stay
Fodor’s Choice | Ledford House.
$$$ | FRENCH | The only thing separating this bluff-top wood-and-glass restaurant from the Pacific Ocean is a great view. Entrées evoke the flavors of southern France and include hearty bistro dishes—stews, cassoulets, and pastas—and large portions of grilled meats and freshly caught fish (though the restaurant also is vegetarian friendly). The long bar, with its unobstructed water view, is a scenic spot for a sunset aperitif. | Average main: $25 | 3000 N. Hwy. 1 | Albion | 707/937–0282 | www.ledfordhouse.com | Closed Mon. and Tues. and mid-Feb.–mid-Mar. No lunch.
Albion River Inn.
$$$ | B&B/INN | Contemporary New England–style cottages at this inn overlook the dramatic bridge and seascape where the Albion River empties into the Pacific. All but two have decks facing the ocean, and one is wheelchair accessible. Six have spa tubs with ocean views; all have fireplaces. The traditional, homey rooms have plush bedding and comfortable furnishings; at the glassed-in restaurant ($$$–$$$$), the grilled meats and fresh seafood are as captivating as the views. Pros: great views; great bathtubs. Cons: newer buildings aren’t as quaint as they could be. | Rooms from: $195 | 3790 N. Hwy. 1 | Albion | 707/937–1919, 800/479–7944 | albionriverinn.com | 18 rooms, 4 cottages | Breakfast.
Mendocino
3 miles north of Little River.
Many of Mendocino’s original settlers came from the Northeast and built houses in the New England style. Thanks to the logging boom, the town flourished for most of the second half of the 19th century. As the timber industry declined, many residents left, but the town’s setting was too beautiful to be ignored. Artists and craftspeople began flocking here in the 1950s, and Elia Kazan chose Mendocino as the backdrop for his 1955 film adaptation of John Steinbeck’s East of Eden, starring James Dean. As the arts community thrived, restaurants, cafés, and inns sprang up. Today, the small downtown area consists almost entirely of places to eat and shop.
Getting Here and Around
From U.S. 101, exit at Cloverdale and follow Highway 128 northwest about 56 miles and Highway 1 north 10 miles. You can also exit at Willits and drive west on Highway 20 about 33 miles to Highway 1, then south 8 miles. Mendocino Transit Authority (mendocinotransit.org) Route 60 buses serve the area.
Exploring
Ford House.
The restored Ford House, built in 1854, serves as the visitor center for Mendocino Headlands State Park and the town. The house has a scale model of Mendocino as it looked in 1890, when it had 34 water towers and a 12-seat public outhouse. From the museum, you can head out on a 3-mile trail across the spectacular seaside cliffs that border the town. | 45035 Main St., west of Lansing St. | 707/937–5397 | mendoparks.org/mendocino-headlands-state-park-ford-house-museum | $2 | Daily 11–4.
Kelley House Museum.
An 1861 structure holds this museum, whose artifacts include Victorian-era furniture and historical photographs of Mendocino coast’s logging days. | 45007 Albion St. | 707/937–5791 | www.kelleyhousemuseum.org | $2 | Fri.–Mon. 11–3.
Mendocino Art Center.
The center has an extensive program of workshops, mounts exhibits in its galleries, and is the home of the Mendocino Theatre Company. Artists from several states paint and sell their work during the center’s plein air festival the second week of September. | 45200 Little Lake St. | 707/937–5818, 800/653–3328 | www.mendocinoartcenter.org | Daily 10–5.
Where to Eat and Stay
Cafe Beaujolais.
$$$ | AMERICAN | The yellow Victorian cottage that houses this popular restaurant is surrounded by a garden of heirloom and exotic plantings. A commitment to the freshest possible organic and local ingredients guides the chef here. The menu is eclectic and ever evolving, but often includes free-range fowl, line-caught fish, and beef specialties. The bakery turns out delicious breads from a wood-fired oven. | Average main: $29 | 961 Ukiah St. | 707/937–5614 | www.cafebeaujolais.com | No lunch Mon. and Tues.
Fodor’s Choice | Brewery Gulch Inn.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | The feel is modern yet tasteful at this smallish inn. The furnishings are redwood and leather, the beds are plush, and two rooms have whirlpool tubs with views. The luxury is in tune with the surrounding nature. Large windows frame views of the 10-acre property, bird-filled trees, and winding paths that lead through native-plant gardens. Organic vegetable and herb gardens provide ingredients for breakfast and the complimentary wine hour with light dinner buffet. Pros: luxury in tune with nature; peaceful ocean views; complimentary wine hour and buffet. Cons: must drive to town. | Rooms from: $325 | 9401 N. Hwy. 1, 1 mile south of Mendocino | 707/937–4752, 800/578–4454 | www.brewerygulchinn.com | 10 rooms, 1 suite | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice | Glendeven Inn Mendocino.
$$ | B&B/INN | If Mendocino is the New England village of the West Coast, then Glendeven is the local country manor with sea views. The main house was built in 1867, and is surrounded by acres of gardens, complete with llamas and chickens that provide eggs for the three-course breakfast served in-room. Inside are five guest rooms, three with fireplaces. A converted barn holds an art gallery and a wine bar that are open to the public daily. The 1986 Stevenscroft building, with its high gabled roof, contains four rooms with fireplaces. The carriage-house suite makes for a romantic retreat, and an additional two-story loft in the barn accommodates groups of up to six people. A four-course farm-to-table dinner with optional wine pairing ($$$$; reservations essential) is offered on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday from March through October and on Thursday and Saturday from November through February. The inn is just off the road; quietest rooms are on the far side of the property. Pros: great ocean views; elegant; romantic. Cons: not within walking distance of town; on the main drag. | Rooms from: $170 | 8205 N. Hwy. 1 | 707/937–0083, 800/822–4536 | glendeven.com | 6 rooms, 4 suites | Breakfast.
MacCallum House.
$$ | B&B/INN | Set on two flower-filled acres in the middle of town, this inn is a perfect mix of Victorian charm and modern luxury. Rosebushes planted by the original owner in the late 1800s still bloom in the garden, but inside, the rooms have private saunas and spa tubs. Rooms in the main house and renovated barn feel genteel and romantic, while the cottages are bright and honeymoon-y. The water tower is unforgettable, with a living room on the first floor, a sauna on the second, and a huge view of the ocean from the bed on the third. Don’t miss the outstanding restaurant ($$$$), where the chef hand selects the best local ingredients and everything from ice cream to mozzarella is prepared daily from scratch. Pros: excellent breakfast; great central location. Cons: new luxury suites on a separate property are more modern. | Rooms from: $159 | 45020 Albion St. | 707/937–0289, 800/609–0492 | www.maccallumhouse.com | 12 rooms, 9 suites, 7 cottages | Breakfast.
Packard House.
$$$ | B&B/INN | One of four landmark homes on Mendocino’s Executive Row, this Victorian has been renovated with a modern aesthetic. The house’s original charm remains in details such as four-paned windows and tongue-and-groove ceilings, but the new decor is sleek: richly colored walls, crisp linens, and contemporary art. Pros: historic home; recent renovation. Cons: some rooms are on the small side, two-night weekend minimum in high season. | Rooms from: $175 | 45170 Little Lake St. | 707/937–2677, 888/453–2677 | www.packardhouse.com | 4 rooms, 2 cottages | Breakfast.
Stanford Inn by the Sea.
$$$$ | HOTEL | This woodsy yet luxurious family-run property a few minutes south of town feels like the Northern California version of an old-time summer resort, with an ecologically friendly twist. Several lodge buildings house guest rooms that range from cozy to chic, many with ocean views, fireplaces, and paintings by local artists. On the spacious, dog-friendly grounds you’ll find organic gardens, llamas, and a sandy river beach where you can rent a kayak or canoe and head 8 miles upstream. Yoga classes and in-room massages and body wraps are complemented by the sophisticated, all-organic vegetarian cuisine at The Ravens restaurant ($$–$$$). Breakfast is vegetarian, too. Pros: lovely grounds; wide variety of activities; pet-friendly. Cons: New Age feel won’t appeal to everyone. | Rooms from: $275 | Comptche-Ukiah Rd., east of Hwy. 1 | 707/937–5615, 800/331–8884 | www.stanfordinn.com | 31 rooms, 10 suites | Breakfast.
Performing Arts
Theater
Mendocino Theatre Company.
Dedicated to producing plays of substance and excitement, this well-established company mounts works by Pulitzer Prize winners and local and other contemporary playwrights. | Mendocino Art Center,45200 Little Lake St. | 707/937–4477 | mendocinotheatre.org.
Sports and the Outdoors
Catch-A-Canoe and Bicycles Too.
Rent kayaks and regular and outrigger canoes here year-round, as well as mountain and suspension bicycles. The outfit’s tours, some by moonlight, explore Big River and its estuary. | Stanford Inn by the Sea, Comptche-Ukiah Rd., east of Hwy. 1 | 707/937–0273 | www.catchacanoe.com | From $65.
Shopping
Highlight Gallery.
For exquisite handmade wood furniture, particularly from Mendocino County woodworkers, stop here. | 45094 Main St. | 707/937–3132 | www.thehighlightgallery.com.
Sallie Mac.
Artisan-crafted gifts, bath products, pottery, and other items, all with French Provençal flair, are found at this shop. | 10540 Lansing St. | 707/937–5357 | www.salliemac.com.
Gallery Books.
This well-loved independent bookstore has a separate section for children called Bookwinkle’s. | 319 Kasten St., at Main St. | 707/937–2665 | www.gallerybookshop.com.
Fort Bragg
10 miles north of Mendocino.
Fort Bragg is a working-class town that many feel is the most authentic place on the coast; it’s certainly less expensive than its neighbors to the south. The declining timber industry has been steadily replaced by tourism, but the city maintains a local feel since most people who work at the area hotels and restaurants also live here, as do many artists. A stroll down Franklin Street, one block east of Highway 1, takes you past numerous bookstores, antiques shops, and boutiques.
Getting Here and Around
From U.S. 101 at Willits follow Highway 20 west about 33 miles to Highway 1 and drive north 2 miles. Mendocino Transit Authority (mendocinotransit.org) Route 60 buses serve the town and region.
Exploring
Fodor’s Choice | Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens.
Something beautiful is always abloom in these marvelous gardens. Along 3½ miles of trails, including pathways with ocean views and observation points for whale-watching, lies a splendid profusion of flowers. The rhododendrons are at their peak from April through June; the dahlias begin their spectacular show in August and last until October. In winter the heather and camellias add more than a splash of color. The main trails are wheelchair accessible. | 18220 N. Hwy. 1, 2 miles south of Fort Bragg | 707/964–4352 | www.gardenbythesea.org | $14 | Mar.–Oct., daily 9–5; Nov.–Feb., daily 9–4.
Museum in the Triangle Tattoo Parlor.
At the top of a steep staircase, this two-room museum pays homage to Fort Bragg’s rough-and-tumble past with memorabilia that includes early 20th-century Burmese tattooing instruments, pictures of astonishing tattoos from around the world, and a small shrine to sword-swallowing sideshow king Captain Don Leslie. | 356-B N. Main St. | 707/964–8814 | www.triangletattoo.com | Free | Daily noon–6.
FAMILY | The Skunk Train.
In the 1920s, a fume-spewing gas-powered train car shuttled passengers along a rail line dating from the logging days of the 1880s. Nicknamed the Skunk Train, it traversed redwood forests inaccessible to automobiles. A reproduction train now travels the same route, making a 3½–4 hour round-trip trek between Fort Bragg and the town of Northspur, 21 miles inland. The schedule varies depending on the season, and in summer includes evening barbecue excursions and wine parties for an additional fee. | Foot of Laurel St., west of Main St. | 707/964–6371, 866/457–5865 | www.skunktrain.com | $59–$79.
Beaches
Glass Beach.
The ocean isn’t visible from most of Fort Bragg, but a gravel path on Elm Street three blocks west of Main Street leads to wild coastline where you can walk for miles along the bluffs. The sandy coves nearest the road are called Glass Beach because here lies more sea glass than you’ve likely ever seen in one place (this area formerly served as the city dump, and the surf pulverized the trash into beautiful treasures). You can gaze at the dazzling colors, but don’t take any glass with you; it’s now against the law. No swimming at this beach either, for safety’s sake. Amenities: parking (free); toilets. Best For: sunset; walking. | Elm St. and Old Haul Rd. | www.parks.ca.gov.
MacKerricher State Park.
This park begins at Glass Beach and stretches north for 9 miles, beginning with rocky headlands that taper into dunes and sandy beaches. The headland is a good place for whale-watching from December to mid-April. Fishing at Lake Cleone (a freshwater lake stocked with trout), canoeing, hiking, tidepooling, jogging, bicycling, beachcombing, camping, and harbor seal watching at Laguna Point are among the popular activities, many of which are accessible to the mobility-impaired. Rangers, who lead nature hikes in summer, discourage swimming in the treacherous surf and remind those on shore to be vigilant for rogue waves and to never turn their backs on the sea. Dogs must be leashed. Amenities: parking (fee); toilets. Best for: solitude; sunset; walking. | 24100 MacKerricher Park Rd., off Hwy. 1, 3 miles north of Fort Bragg | 707/937–5804 | www.parks.ca.gov | $8 per vehicle.
Where to Eat and Stay
FAMILY | Mendo Bistro.
$$ | AMERICAN | Everything on this menu is made from scratch, including the bread, pastas, and charcuterie. Though the chef doesn’t tout it, his ingredients are nearly all organic, many of them local. In season, the roasted whole crab with three dipping sauces is sensational. A wide selection of pastas includes something for everyone—or, if not, there’s the DIY menu: select your protein (beef, chicken, tofu), method of cooking, and sauce. This is a good place for upscale family dining. | Average main: $22 | 301 N. Main St. | 707/964–4974 | www.mendobistro.com | No lunch.
Piaci Pub and Pizzeria.
$ | ITALIAN | The seats are stools and your elbows might bang a neighbor’s, but nobody seems to mind at this cozy spot that’s hands down the area’s most popular casual restaurant. The food is simple, mostly pizza and calzones, but everything is carefully prepared and comes out tasty. The well-chosen beers served here receive the same respect the wines do: the chalkboard list notes the origin, brewmaster, and alcohol content. Dogs and their owners are welcome at the tables outside. TIP Piaci is a cash-only establishment. | Average main: $14 | 120 W. Redwood Ave. | 707/961–1133 | www.piacipizza.com | No credit cards | No lunch Sun.
Surf and Sand Lodge.
$$ | HOTEL | As its name implies, this hotel sits practically on the beach; pathways lead from the property down to the rock-strewn shore. All rooms are bright and clean, although the six least expensive ones don’t have views. The nicest of the second-story rooms have jetted tubs and fireplaces. A few are pet-friendly for a fee. Pros: beach location; gorgeous sunsets. Cons: motel style; no restaurants close by. | Rooms from: $129 | 1131 N. Main St. | 707/964–9383, 800/964–0184 | www.surfsandlodge.com | 30 rooms | No meals.
Weller House Inn.
$$$ | B&B/INN | It’s hard to believe that this house was abandoned and slated for demolition when it was purchased in 1994 and then carefully restored into the loveliest Victorian in Fort Bragg. Each of the nine guest rooms is colorful and tasteful, with hand-painted ceilings and deep, claw-foot tubs. The water tower—the tallest structure in town—provides ocean views from its second-floor hot tub and rooftop viewing deck. The stunning redwood-panel ballroom is the location for spirited tango dancing events presented on some weekends by innkeeper Vivien LaMothe. Pros: handcrafted details; radiant heat in the wood floors; friendly innkeepers. Cons: some may find it too old-fashioned. | Rooms from: $210 | 524 Stewart St. | 707/964–4415 | www.wellerhouse.com | 9 rooms | Breakfast.
Sports and the Outdoors
Horseback Riding
Ricochet Ridge Ranch.
Come here for private and group trail rides through the redwood forest and on the beach. | 24201 N. Hwy. 1 | 707/964–7669, 888/873–5777 | www.horse-vacation.com | From $50.
Whale-Watching
All Aboard Adventures.
Captain Tim of All Aboard operates fishing excursions year-round and whale-watching trips from late December through April. | Noyo Harbor,32410 N. Harbor Dr. | 707/964–1881 | www.allaboardadventures.com | From $35.