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Humboldt Redwoods State Park | Ferndale | Eureka | Trinidad
Humboldt Redwoods State Park
25 miles north of Garberville, 43 miles south of Eureka.
Conservationists banded together a century ago as the Save the Redwoods League and scored a key victory when a memorial grove was dedicated in 1921. That grove is now part of Humboldt Redwoods State Park, which these days has grown to nearly 53,000 acres, about a third of which are filled with untouched old-growth coast redwoods.
Getting Here and Around
Access the park right off U.S. 101.
Exploring
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Avenue of the Giants.
Some of the tallest trees on Earth tower over this magnificent 32-mile stretch of two-lane blacktop, also known as Highway 254, that follows the south fork of the Eel River through Humboldt Redwoods State Park. The highway runs more or less parallel to U.S. 101 from Phillipsville in the south to the town of Pepperwood in the north. A brochure available at either end of the highway or the visitor center, 2 miles south of Weott, contains a self-guided tour, with short and long hikes through various redwood groves. A trail at Founders Grove passes by several impressive trees, among them the fallen 362-foot-long Dyerville Giant, whose root base points skyward 35 feet. The tree can be reached via a short trail that begins 4 miles north of the visitor center. About 6 miles north of the center lies Rockefeller Forest. The largest remaining old-growth coast redwood forest, it contains 40 of the 100 tallest trees in the world. | Humboldt Redwoods State Park Visitor Center, Hwy. 254 | Weott | 707/946–2263 | www.parks.ca.gov | Free; $8 day-use fee for Williams Grove | Visitor center Apr.–Sept., daily 9–5; Oct.–Mar., daily 10–4.
Ferndale
35 miles northwest of Weott; 57 miles northwest of Garberville.
Though gift shops and ice-cream stores comprise a fair share of the businesses here, Ferndale remains a fully functioning small town. There’s a butcher, a small grocery, and a local saloon (the westernmost in the contiguous United States), and descendants of the Portuguese and Scandinavian dairy farmers who settled this town continue to raise dairy cows in the surrounding pastures. Ferndale is best known for its colorful Victorian architecture; many shops carry a self-guided tour map that highlights the town’s most interesting historic buildings.
Getting Here and Around
Ferndale is about 19 miles south of Eureka. Exit U.S. 101 at Highway 211 and follow it southwest 5 miles. There is no public transit service to Ferndale.
Tours
Eel River Delta Tours.
Bruce Slocum’s engaging two-hour boat trips examine the wildlife and history of the Eel River’s estuary and salt marsh. | 285 Morgan Slough Rd. | 707/786–4902 leave message for call back | From $25.
Exploring
Ferndale Historic Cemetery.
The worn, lovely gravestones at this cemetery on Ferndale’s east side provide insight into the hard, often short lives of the European immigrants who cultivated this area in the mid-18th century. From the top of the hill here you can view the town, the surrounding farms, and the ocean. | Bluff St. and Craig St.
Ferndale Museum.
The main building of this museum exhibits Victoriana and historical photographs and has a display of an old-style barbershop and another of Wiyot Indian baskets. In the annex are a horse-drawn buggy, a re-created blacksmith’s shop, and antique farming, fishing, and dairy equipment. Don’t miss the historic Bosch-Omori seismograph, installed in 1933 in Ferndale; it’s still checked daily for recordings of earthquake activity. | 515 Shaw Ave. | 707/786–4466 | www.ferndale-museum.org | $1 | June–Sept., Tues.–Sat. 11–4, Sun. 1–4; Oct.–Dec. and Feb.–May, Wed.–Sat. 11–4, Sun. 1–4; closed Jan.
Where to Stay
Gingerbread Mansion.
$$ | B&B/INN | A dazzler that rivals San Francisco’s “painted ladies,” this Victorian mansion has detailed exterior spindle work, turrets, and gables. The guest rooms are decorated in plush, flowery period splendor. Some rooms have views of the mansion’s English garden; one has side-by-side bathtubs. Hand-painted scenes of Venice grace the walls and ceiling of the posh, marble floored Veneto suite. Afternoon tea and breakfast are both served with style. Pros: elegant; relaxing; friendly. Cons: some may find the place gaudy. | Rooms from: $165 | 400 Berding St. | 707/786–4000, 855/786–4001 | www.gingerbread-mansion.com | 7 rooms, 4 suites | Breakfast.
Shopping
Golden Gait Mercantile.
A sort of general store for visitors, Golden Gait Mercantile sells long johns and penny candy, vintage-style enamel cookware, and local fruit preserves. This is a fun place to stop with kids. | 421 Main St. | 707/786–4891.
Blacksmith Shop.
With two storefronts in Ferndale, the Blacksmith Shop celebrates the survival of traditional blacksmithing arts in the area. The hand-forged works sold here range from flatware to furniture, and especially nice are the rough-handled chef’s knives—so sharp there are Band-Aids stuffed in behind the display, just in case. | 455 and 491 Main St. | 707/786–4216 | www.ferndaleblacksmith.com.
Sweetness and Light.
The very air is delectable at this shop that makes old-fashioned fudge, caramels, and chocolates. | 554 Main St. | 707/786–4403, 800/547–8180 | www.sweetnessandlight.com.
Eureka
19 miles north of Ferndale; 67 miles north of Garberville.
With a population of 27,000, Eureka is the North Coast’s largest city. Over the past century, it has cycled through several periods of boom and bust—first with mining and later with timber and fishing—but these days tourism helps keep the local economy afloat. The town’s nearly 100 Victorian buildings have inspired some to dub it “the Williamsburg of the West.” Shops draw people to the renovated downtown, and a walking pier extends into the harbor.
Getting Here and Around
U.S. 101 travels through Eureka. From Redding and Interstate 5, travel west along Highway 299 about 138 miles to U.S. 101; Eureka is 9 miles south. Eureka Transit (www.eurekatransit.org) buses serve the town and connect with regional transit.
Exploring
Blue Ox Millworks.
This woodshop is among a handful in the country specializing in Victorian-era architecture, but what makes it truly unique is that its craftspeople use antique tools to do the work. The most modern tool here is a 1948 band saw. Lucky for curious craftspeople and history buffs, the shop doubles as a dusty historical park. Visitors can watch craftsmen use printing presses, lathes, and even a mill that pares down whole redwood logs into the ornate fixtures for Victorians like those around town. The museum is less interesting on Saturday, when most craftspeople take the day off. | 1 X St. | 707/444–3437, 800/248–4259 | www.blueoxmill.com | $10 | Weekdays 9–5; Apr.–Nov., also Sat. 9–4.
Clarke Historical Museum.
The Native American Wing of this museum contains a beautiful collection of northwestern California basketry. Artifacts from Eureka’s Victorian, logging, and maritime eras fill the rest of the space. | 240 E St. | 707/443–1947 | www.clarkemuseum.org | $3 | Wed.–Sat. 11–4.
Eureka Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center.
The center has maps of self-guided driving tours of Eureka’s Victorian architecture, and you can learn about organized tours. | 2112 Broadway | 707/442–3738 | www.eurekachamber.com | Weekdays 8:30–5, June–Aug., also Sat. 10–3.
FAMILY | Fort Humboldt State Historic Park.
The structure that gives this park its name was built in response to conflicts between white settlers and Native Americans. It no longer stands, but on its grounds are some reconstructed buildings, fort and logging museums, and old logging locomotives. | 3431 Fort Ave. | 707/445–6547 | www.parks.ca.gov | Free | Daily 8–5.
Quick Bites: Lost Coast Brewery & Cafe.
This bustling microbrewery is the best place in town to relax with a pint of ale or porter. Soups, salads, and light meals are served for lunch and dinner. | 617 4th St. | 707/445–4480 | www.lostcoast.com.
Where to Eat and Stay
Fodor’s Choice | Restaurant 301.
$$$ | AMERICAN | The elegant Restaurant 301, inside the Carter House, uses ingredients selected from the farmers’ market, local cheese makers and ranchers, and the on-site gardens. Dishes are prepared with a delicate hand and a sensuous imagination. There’s always a fresh seafood offering, and you can dine à la carte or choose the five-course prix-fixe menu ($62). TIP The restaurant’s praiseworthy wine selection includes many coveted older vintages. | Average main: $28 | 301 L St. | 707/444–8062, 800/404–1390 | carterhouse.com | No lunch.
FAMILY | Samoa Cookhouse.
$$ | AMERICAN | Waiters at this former cafeteria for local mill workers deliver family-style bowls—whatever is being served at the meal you’ve arrived for—to long, communal tables. For breakfast that means eggs, sausage, biscuits and gravy, and the like. Lunch and dinner usually feature soup, potatoes, salad, and pie, plus daily-changing entrées such as pot roast and pork loin. A museum in the back pays homage to logging culture, but the entire place is a tribute to the rough-and-tumble life and hard work that tamed this wild land. Dieters and vegetarians should look elsewhere for sustenance. | Average main: $17 | 908 Vance Ave., near Cookhouse Rd. | Samoa | 707/442–1659 | www.samoacookhouse.net.
Fodor’s Choice | Abigail’s Elegant Victorian Mansion.
$$$ | HOTEL | Innkeepers Doug and Lily Vieyra have devoted themselves to honoring this National Historic Landmark by decorating it in authentic, Victorian-era style. Nearly every square inch of the home—once owned by the town’s millionaire real-estate sultan—is covered in brocade, antique wallpaper, or redwood paneling, and from every possible surface hangs a painting with gilt frame, or a historical costume. The Vieyras want their visitors to pretend they are the current inhabitants: drink tea in the parlor, play croquet on the lawn, select one of hundreds of period movies and watch it in the sitting room while the innkeepers wait on them. If you’re ready, don your top hat or corset and embrace what Doug calls his “interactive living-history museum.” Pros: unique; lots of character; delightful innkeepers. Cons: two-night minimum stay; downtown is not within walking distance. | Rooms from: $225 | 1406 C St. | 707/444–3144 | www.eureka-california.com | 4 rooms, 2 with shared bath | No credit cards | No meals.
Fodor’s Choice | Carter House.
$$$ | HOTEL | Owner Mark Carter says he trains his staff always to say yes; whether it’s breakfast in bed or an in-room massage, someone here will get you what you want. Richly painted and aglow with wood detailing, the rooms, in two main buildings and several cottages, are a blend of modern and antique furnishings. The room rates include a sumptuous breakfast. For dinner, the excellent Restaurant 301 is right on the property. Pros: elegant; every detail in place; aim-to-please service. Cons: though kids are allowed, this is best for grown-ups. | Rooms from: $189 | 301 L St. | 707/444–8062, 800/404–1390 | carterhouse.com | 22 rooms, 8 suites, 2 cottages | Breakfast.
Sports and the Outdoors
Whale-Watching
Humboats Kayak Adventures.
Kayak rentals and lessons are available here, along with group kayaking tours, including whale-watching trips (from December to June) that get you close enough for good photos of migrating gray whales and resident humpback whales. | Dock A, Woodley Island Marina | 707/443–5157 | www.humboats.com | From $50.
Shopping
Eureka has several art galleries and numerous antiques stores in the district running from C to I streets between 2nd and 3rd streets.
Art Gallery
First Street Gallery.
Run by Humboldt State University, this is the best spot for contemporary art by local and regional artists, with some national and international representation. | 422 1st St. | 707/443–6363 | www.humboldt.edu/first.
Books
Eureka Books.
Along with classics and bestsellers, this bibliophile’s haven has exceptional used books on all topics. | 426 2nd St. | 707/444–9593 | eurekabooksellers.com.
Trinidad
23 miles north of Eureka.
Trinidad got its name from the Spanish mariners who entered the bay on Trinity Sunday, June 9, 1775. The town became a principal trading post for the mining camps along the Klamath and Trinity rivers. Mining and whaling have faded from the scene, and now Trinidad is a quiet and genuinely charming community with ample sights and activities to entertain low-key visitors.
Getting Here and Around
Trinidad sits right off U.S. 101. To reach the town from Interstate 5, head west from Redding on Highway 299 and turn north on U.S. 101 north of Arcata. Redwood Transit System (www.redwoodtransit.org) provides bus service between Trinidad, Eureka, and nearby towns.
Exploring
Patrick’s Point State Park.
On a forested plateau almost 200 feet above the surf, the park has stunning views of the Pacific, great whale- and sea lion–watching, picnic areas, bike paths, and hiking trails through old-growth spruce forest. There are also tidal pools at Agate Beach, a re-created Yurok Indian village, and a small museum with natural-history exhibits. Because the park is far from major tourist hubs, there are few visitors (most are local surfers). It’s sublimely quiet here. Three campgrounds amid spruce and alder trees have all amenities except RV hookups. Reservations are recommended in summer. Dogs are not allowed on trails or the beach. | U.S. 101, 5 miles north of Trinidad | 707/677–3570 | www.parks.ca.gov | $8 per vehicle.
Beaches
FAMILY | Clam Beach County Park and Little River State Beach.
These two adjoining oceanfront areas stretch for several miles south of Trinidad. The sandy beach here is exceptionally wide, perfect for kids who need to get out of the car and burn off some energy. Beachcombing and savoring fabulous sunsets are favorite activities. The two parks share day-use facilities. Amenities: parking (free); toilets. Best for: solitude; sunset; walking. | Clam Beach Dr. & U.S. 101, 6 miles south of Trinidad | 707/445–7651 | www.parks.ca.gov | 5 am–midnight.
Where to Eat and Stay
Katy’s Smokehouse.
$ | SEAFOOD | This tiny operation has been doing things the same way since the 1940s, curing day-boat, line-caught fish with its original smokers. Albacore jerky, smoked scallops, and salmon cured with brown sugar are popular. Buy bread and drinks in town and walk to the waterside for fine alfresco snacking. | Average main: $10 | 740 Edwards St. | 707/677–0151 | www.katyssmokehouse.com | No dinner.
Larrupin’ Cafe.
$$$ | AMERICAN | Set in a two-story house on a quiet country road north of town, this restaurant—locally considered one of the best places to eat on the North Coast—is often thronged with people enjoying fresh seafood, Cornish game hen, or mesquite-grilled ribs. The garden setting and candlelight stir thoughts of romance. | Average main: $29 | 1658 Patrick’s Point Dr. | 707/677–0230 | www.larrupin.com | No lunch.
Trinidad Bay Bed and Breakfast Inn.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | Staying at this small Cape Cod–style inn perched above Trinidad Bay is like spending the weekend at a friend’s vacation house. Every room has a downy, king-size bed and colorful, beachy furnishings. There are as many windows as the walls will allow, providing a view that starts at the harbor and stretches for miles south down the coastline. The nicest room is also the largest; called Tidepool, it has overstuffed chairs and two walls of windows. Pros: great location above bay; lots of light. Cons: if all rooms are full, the main house can feel a bit crowded. | Rooms from: $275 | 560 Edwards St., Box 849 | 707/677–0840 | www.trinidadbaybnb.com | 4 rooms | Breakfast.
Turtle Rocks Oceanfront Inn.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | This comfortable inn has the best view in Trinidad, and the builders have made the most of it, adding private, glassed-in decks to each room so that guests can fully enjoy the ocean and sunning sea lions. Interiors are spare and contemporary, and all rooms have wonderfully comfortable king-size beds and electric fireplaces. The surrounding landscape has been left wild and natural; tucked among the low bushes are sundecks for winter whale-watching and summer catnaps. Patrick’s Point State Park is just a mile away. Pros: great ocean views; comfy king beds. Cons: no businesses within walking distance. | Rooms from: $295 | 3392 Patrick’s Point Dr., 4½ miles north of town | 707/677–3707 | www.turtlerocksinn.com | 5 rooms, 1 suite | Breakfast.