Fodo_9781101879054_p22

Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

This hilly region has an old-timey vibe. It’s rich with antiques shops, quaint coffee shops, and delightfully appointed Victorian B&Bs.

Previous Map | Next Map | Northern California Maps

Placerville

44 miles east of Sacramento.

It’s hard to imagine now, but in 1849 about 4,000 miners staked out every gully and hillside in Placerville, turning the town into a rip-roaring camp of log cabins, tents, and clapboard houses. The area was then known as Hangtown, a graphic allusion to the nature of frontier justice. It took on the name Placerville in 1854 and became an important supply center for the miners. (Placer is defined roughly as valuable minerals found in riverbeds or lakes.) Mark Hopkins, Philip Armour, and John Studebaker were among the industrialists who got their starts here. Today Placerville ranks among the hippest towns in the region, its Main Street abuzz with indie shops, coffeehouses, and wine bars, many of them inside rehabbed historic buildings.

Getting Here and Around

You’ll need a car to get to and around Placerville; it’s a 45-minute drive from Sacramento via U.S. 50.

Exploring

FAMILY | Apple Hill.
During the fall harvest season (September through December), the members of the Apple Hill Growers Association open their orchards and vineyards for apple and berry picking, picnicking, and wine and cider tasting. Start your tour at High Hill Ranch, where there are fishing ponds for kids (they’ll clean and pack the fish for you). Nibble on apple doughnuts or buy jewelry from local crafters. Stop at Larsen Apple Barn, a legacy farm. Family-favored Kid’s Inc. serves apple pie and empanadas, and you can sample Cabernet and Bordeaux-style blends at Grace Patriot Wines, and fresh-pressed juices at Barsotti. Stop at Wofford Acres Vineyard just to see a dramatic view of the American River canyon below. WARNING: Traffic on weekends is often backed up, so take the Camino exit or go during the week to avoid the crowds (although kid-centric events are on weekends). | About 5 miles east of Hwy. 49; take Camino exit from U.S. 50 | 530/644–7692 | www.applehill.com.

FAMILY | Hangtown’s Gold Bug Park & Mine.
Take a self-guided tour of this fully lighted mine shaft owned by the City of Placerville. The worthwhile audio tour (included) makes clear what you’re seeing. TIP A shaded stream runs through the park, and there are picnic facilities. | 2635 Goldbug La., off Bedford Ave., 1 mile off U.S. 50 | 530/642–5207 | www.goldbugpark.org | Park free; mine tour $6 | Apr.–Oct., daily 10–4; Nov.–Mar., weekends noon–4.

Where to Eat and Stay

The Cozmic Cafe.
$ | VEGETARIAN | Crowds come for healthful wraps, burritos, sandwiches, salads, and the like, plus breakfast (served anytime), smoothies, and espresso drinks. Portions are big, prices are low, and the ambience is distinctive. The eatery is in the 1859 Pearson’s Soda Works Building and extends back into the side of a mountain, into what used to be a mineshaft. The live music here is among the best in the foothills, and an upstairs pub beckons with local wines and microbrews. | Average main: $9 | 594 Main St. | 530/642–8481 | www.ourcoz.com | Closed Mon.

Fodor’s Choice | Eden Vale Inn.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | Handcrafted by the owners, this lavish but rustic B&B occupies a converted turn-of-the-20th-century hay barn, the centerpiece of which is a 27-foot slate fireplace that rises to a sloping roof of timber beams. Every room was designed with pampering in mind, with meticulous bedding, gas fireplaces, and private entrances to sleek, deep outdoor tubs, which are secluded by lattice-sliding doors. Lush gardens and hammocks overlook a pond and wooded nooks. Guests enjoy breakfast in a Mexican-tiled sunroom—savor homemade breads and dishes cooked with herbs and veggies grown on-site. Finches and western tanagers chirp outside. Pros: rooms are exceptionally plush; the patio and grounds are stunning; plenty of places outside for kids to run. Cons: fairly expensive for the area; book summer weekends well in advance. | Rooms from: $298 | 1780 Springvale Rd. | 530/621-0901 | www.edenvaleinn.com | 5 rooms, 2 suites | Breakfast.

Seasons Bed & Breakfast.
$$ | B&B/INN | One of Placerville’s oldest homes has been transformed into a lovely and relaxing oasis. The main house, cottages, and gardens are filled with paintings and sculptures. Privacy is treasured here. A suite with a sitting room and stained-glass windows occupies the main house’s top floor. One cottage has a little white-picket fence around its own mini-garden; another has a two-person shower. Pros: quiet setting; short walk to downtown; attentive hosts; great breakfasts. Cons: B&B environment not for everyone. | Rooms from: $135 | 2934 Bedford Ave. | 530/626–4420 | www.theseasons.net | 2 rooms, 1 suite, 1 cottage | Breakfast.

Shenandoah Valley

20 miles south of Placerville.

The most concentrated Gold Country wine-touring area lies in the hills of the Shenandoah Valley, east of Plymouth. Robust Zinfandel is the primary grape grown here, but vineyards here produce plenty of other varietals, from Rhône blends to Italian Barberas and Sangioveses. Most wineries are open for tastings at least on weekend afternoons, and some of the top ones are open daily; several have shaded picnic areas. TIP This region is gaining steam as a less-congested alternative to the Napa Valley.

Getting Here and Around

Reach the Shenandoah Valley by turning east on Fiddletown Road in Plymouth, between Placerville and Sutter Creek, and then north on Plymouth-Shenandoah Road. You will need a car to explore the valley and its vineyards.

Exploring

Shenandoah Vineyards.
A plummy Barbera and an almost chocolaty Zinfandel top this winery’s repertoire, but for a contrast you can also try a startlingly crisp Sauvignon Blanc. The Tempranillo is also good. An adjacent gallery sells contemporary art, pottery, photographs, and souvenirs. TIP Shenandoah is affiliated with the nearby Sobon Estate Winery, which has an engaging on-site museum about the area. | 12300 Steiner Rd. | 209/245–4455 | www.sobonwine.com | Tasting $5 | Daily 10–5.

Sobon Estate.
You can sip fruity, robust Zinfandels—old vine and new—and learn about winemaking and Shenandoah Valley pioneer life at the museum here. This winery was established in 1856 and has been run since 1989 by the owners of Shenandoah Vineyards (whose wines you can also taste). TIP To sample the best of the Zins, pay the modest fee for the reserve tasting. | 14430 Shenandoah Rd. | 209/245–4455 | www.sobonwine.com | Tasting $5 | Daily 10–5.

Terre Rouge and Easton Wines.
The winery of Bill and Jane Easton has two labels with two different wine-making styles: Terre Rouge focuses on Rhône-style wines, while Easton covers old-vine Zinfandel and Barbera. The winery has had good results with inky, soft Syrahs and Enigma, a Rhône-style white blend of Marsanne, Viognier, and Roussane. TIP You can picnic on the shaded patio here and there’s a pétanque court nearby. | 10801 Dickson Rd. | 209/245–4277 | www.terrerougewines.com | Tasting $5 | Nov.–Aug., Thurs.–Mon. 11–4; Sept.–Oct., daily 11–4.

Vino Noceto.
This winery is an example of the benefits of focusing mostly on one varietal—in this case Sangiovese—and doing it well. Owners Suzy and Jim Gullett produce their Sangioveses in several different styles, from light and fruity to rich and heavy. They also produce small lots of wines from other varietals. | 11011 Shenandoah Rd., at Dickson Rd. | 209/245–6556 | www.noceto.com | Tasting free | Weekdays 11–4, weekends 11–5.

Where to Eat and Stay

Fodor’s Choice | Taste.
$$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | A serendipitous find on the dusty streets of tiny Plymouth, Taste serves eclectic modern dishes made from fresh local fare. Phyllo-wrapped mushroom “cigars” or pan-seared scallops served with golden-beet risotto, kumquat, mint, fennel, and orange butter. Toss in tahini-grilled cauliflower with red-wine braised carrots and turnip greens, and even the vegetarians leave happy. TIP Gold Country winemaking can be hit or miss, but with several sommeliers on staff, this is a terrific place to find out which producers are worth seeking out. There’s also a great beer list. | Average main: $33 | 9402 Main St. | 209/245–3463 | www.restauranttaste.com | Closed Tues. and Wed. No lunch weekdays.

Amador Harvest Inn.
$$ | B&B/INN | This B&B adjacent to the Deaver Vineyards tasting room occupies a bucolic lakeside spot in the Shenandoah Valley. A contemporary Cape Cod–style structure has homey guest rooms with private baths. Public areas include a living room with fireplace and a music room with a view of the lake. Pros: rustic charm; reasonable rates; hearty breakfasts. Cons: spare decor; a bit old-fashioned. | Rooms from: $165 | 12455 Steiner Rd. | 209/245–5512, 800/217–2304 | www.amadorharvestinn.com | 4 rooms | Breakfast.

Amador City

6 miles south of Plymouth.

The history of tiny Amador City mirrors the boom-bust-boom cycle of many Gold Country towns. With an output of $42 million in gold, its Keystone Mine was one of the most productive in the Mother Lode. After all the gold was extracted, the miners cleared out, and the area suffered. Amador City now derives its wealth from tourists, who come to browse through its antiques and specialty shops, most of them on or just off Highway 49.

Getting Here and Around

Park where you can along Old Highway 49 (a bypass diverts Highway 49 traffic around Sutter Creek and Amador City), and walk around.

Where to Stay

Imperial Hotel.
$$ | B&B/INN | The whimsically decorated mock-Victorian rooms at this 1879 hotel give a modern twist to the excesses of the era. The antique furnishings include iron-and-brass beds, gingerbread flourishes, and, in one room, art-deco appointments. The two front rooms, which can be noisy, have balconies. The menu at the hotel’s fine restaurant ($$$) changes seasonally and ranges from country hearty to contemporary eclectic. The Imperial also includes a hilltop cottage with three suites; prices are higher, but good views, lower noise levels, and Jacuzzis help compensate. Pros: comfortable; good restaurant and bar; tiny-town charm. Cons: no nightlife. | Rooms from: $135 | 14202 Old Hwy. 49 | 209/267–9172 | www.imperialamador.com | 6 rooms, 3 suites | Breakfast.

Sutter Creek

2 miles south of Amador City.

Sutter Creek is a charming conglomeration of balconied buildings, Victorian homes, and neo–New England structures. The stores on Main Street (formerly part of Highway 49, which was rerouted) are worth visiting for works by the many local artists and craftspeople.

Getting Here and Around

Arrive here by car on Highway 49. There’s no public transit, but downtown is walkable. The visitor center organizes walking tours.

Essentials

Information
Sutter Creek Visitor Center. | 71A Main St. | 209/267–1344 | www.suttercreek.org.

Exploring

Off the Beaten Path: Daffodil Hill.
Each spring a 4-acre hillside east of Sutter Creek erupts in a riot of yellow and gold as 300,000 daffodils burst into bloom. The garden is the work of the McLaughlin family, which has owned this site since 1887. Daffodil plantings began in the 1930s. The display usually takes place between mid-March and mid-April. | 18310 Rams Horn Grade Rd., from Main St., Hwy. 49, in Sutter Creek, take Shake Ridge Rd. east 13 miles | Volcano | 209/296–7048 | www.amadorcountychamber.com | Free | Mid-Mar.–mid-Apr., daily 10–4.

Monteverde Store Museum.
This store, opened 1896, is a relic from the past: its final owner walked out more than four decades ago and never returned. These days you can peruse what he left behind, including typical wares from a century ago, an elaborate antique scale, and a chair-encircled potbellied stove. | 3 Randolph St. | 209/267–0493 | Weekends, if volunteers available, hrs vary.

Where to Stay

Eureka Street Inn.
$$ | B&B/INN | The lead- and stained-glass windows and the original redwood paneling, wainscoting, and beams—and, oh yes, those gas-log fireplaces in most rooms—lend the Eureka Street Inn a cozy feel. Bathrooms are quite large. The Craftsman-style bungalow was built in 1914 as a family home. Pros: quiet location; lovely porch; engaging owners. Cons: only four rooms. | Rooms from: $145 | 55 Eureka St. | 209/267–5500, 800/399–2389 | www.eurekastreetinn.com | 4 rooms | Breakfast.

The Foxes Inn of Sutter Creek.
$$$ | B&B/INN | The rooms in this 1857 white-clapboard house are handsome, with high ceilings, antique beds, and armoires; five have gas fireplaces. Breakfast is cooked to order and delivered on a silver service to your room or to the gazebo in the garden. Pros: lovely inside and out; friendly owners. Cons: pricey. | Rooms from: $200 | 77 Main St. | 209/267–5882, 800/987–3344 | www.foxesinn.com | 5 rooms, 2 suites | Breakfast.

Grey Gables Inn.
$$ | B&B/INN | Charming yet modern, this inn brings a touch of the English countryside to the Gold Country; the rooms, named after British poets, have gas-log fireplaces. Afternoon tea and evening refreshments are served in the parlor; birds flit about the wisteria in the terraced garden. Pros: English feel; tasteful interiors. Cons: hovers over main road; not much to do in town after dark. | Rooms from: $168 | 161 Hanford St. | 209/267–1039, 800/473–9422 | www.greygables.com | 8 rooms | Breakfast.

Jackson

8 miles south of Sutter Creek.

Jackson wasn’t the Gold Country’s rowdiest town, but the party lasted longer here than most anywhere else: “girls’ dormitories” (aka brothels) and nickel slot machines flourished until the mid-1950s. Jackson also had the world’s deepest and richest gold mines, the Kennedy and the Argonaut, which together produced $70 million in gold. Most of the miners who worked the lode were of Serbian or Italian origin, and they gave the town a European character that persists to this day. Jackson has pioneer cemeteries whose headstones tell the stories of local Serbian and Italian families. The city’s official website (ci.jackson.ca.us; click on “Visitor Center”) has great cemetery and walking-tour maps; there are some interesting shops downtown.

Getting Here and Around

Arrive by car on Highway 49. You can walk to downtown sights but otherwise will need a car.

Exploring

Kennedy Gold Mine.
On weekends, docents offer guided surface tours of one the most prolific mines of the Gold Rush era. Exhibits inside the remaining buildings illustrate how the mine used “skips” to lower miners and materials into the mile-long shaft, and to carry ore and tailings to the surface. The tour, including a short film, takes 60 to 90 minutes. | ½ mile east of Hwy. 49, Kennedy Mine Rd., at Argonaut Ln. | 209/223–9542 | www.kennedygoldmine.com | Free; guided tours $10 | Mar.–Oct., weekends 10–3.

Fodor’s Choice | Preston Castle.
History buffs and ghost hunters regularly make the trip to this fantastically creepy building that was built to house troubled youth in 1894. Having fallen into a state of disrepair, the building is slowly undergoing a full renovation. Tours are available by appointment and on certain Thursdays and Saturdays throughout the year (it’s best to call ahead to confirm schedule). Ask about evening and overnight tours when tales of paranormal activity are truly spooky. The dramatic Romanesque Revival structure has appeared on TV’s Ghost Hunters, and during tours of this 156-room building you’ll learn all sorts of spine-tingling tales, including one about a student murdering a housekeeper and then rolling her up in a carpet. | 909 Palm Dr., 12 miles west of Jackson via Hwys. 88 and 104 | Ione | 209/256–3623 | www.prestoncastle.com | $10 | Apr.–Sept., Sat. 10–1; hrs vary for evening and overnight tours.

St. Sava Serbian Orthodox Church.
The terraced cemetery on the grounds of the handsome church is an impressive sight. | 724 N. Main St. | www.saintsavajackson.org.

Where to Eat and Stay

Hotel Leger.
$ | HOTEL | Home to a still convivial old saloon that was one of the rowdiest miners’ haunts back in the day, this atmospheric 1851 inn, which is about 8 miles south of Jackson, is inhabited today by friendly ghosts. Notorious Gold Rush characters like Black Bart and Joaquin Murreta were rumored to imbibe and play cards here. The 14 rooms and suites are individually decorated with a mishmash of Victorian antiques and more utilitarian pieces; some units can accommodate pets. The courtyard opens to a beautiful garden with a pool and deck, and the grounds are dotted with some of the oldest orange trees in the country. The cozy Whitewater Grill ($$), with its original stone walls, serves traditional American fare, from burgers to prime rib—dine on the pleasant patio on warmer days. Pros: friendly and accommodating proprietors; rich in history; reasonably priced. Con: bathrooms are private but some are located across the hall; thin walls and creaky floorboards. | Rooms from: $115 | 8304 Main St. | Mokelumme Hill | 209/286–1401 | www.hotelleger.com | 7 rooms, 7 suites | No meals.

Angels Camp

20 miles south of Jackson.

Angels Camp is famous chiefly for its May jumping-frog contest, based on Mark Twain’s short story “The Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras County.” The writer reputedly heard the story of the jumping frog from Ross Coon, proprietor of Angels Hotel, which has been in operation since 1856. It’s a favorite destination these days among outdoor adventurers, who love exploring the subterranean caverns and fishing for salmon, trout, and bass in the area’s crystal clear rivers and lakes.

Getting Here and Around

Angels Camp is at the intersection of Highway 49 and Highway 4. You’ll need a car to get here and around.

Exploring

Angels Camp Museum.
Gold-rush relics are on display here: photos, rocks, petrified wood, blacksmith and mining equipment, even a horse-drawn hearse. The carriage house out back holds 31 carriages and impressive mineral specimens. | 753 S. Main St. | 209/736–2963 | www.angelscampmuseumfoundation.org | $5 | Mar.–Nov., Thurs.–Mon. 10–4; Dec.–Feb., weekends 10–4.

FAMILY | California Cavern.
A ½-mile subterranean trail winds through large chambers and past underground streams and lakes. There aren’t many steps to climb, but it’s a strenuous walk with some narrow passageways and steep spots. The caverns, at a constant 55°F, contain crystalline formations not found elsewhere, and the 80-minute guided tour explains local history and geology. | 9565 Cave City Rd., 9 miles east of San Andreas on Mountain Ranch Rd., then about 3 miles on Cave City Rd. | Mountain Ranch | 209/736–2708 | www.caverntours.com | $14.95 | Apr.–Oct., daily 10–5; Nov.–Feb. weekends 10–4; hrs can vary, call to confirm.

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Moaning Cavern.
There’s no better way to see what life was like underground for prospectors than to descend into the belly of the land. This fascinating tour let’s you wander down a chasm into the wonder of an ancient limestone cave. Take the 235-step spiral staircase built in 1922 into this vast cavern. More intrepid explorers can rappel into the chamber—ropes and instruction are provided. Otherwise, the only way inside is via the 45-minute tour, during which you’ll see giant (and still growing) stalactites and stalagmites and an archaeological site that holds some of the oldest human remains yet found in America. Outside there are three zip lines, starting at $44 per person. | 5350 Moaning Cave Rd., off Parrots Ferry Rd., about 2 miles south of Vallecito | Vallecito | 209/736–2708 | www.caverntours.com | $14.95 | Apr.–Oct., daily 9–6; Nov.–Mar., weekdays 10–4, weekends 9–5; hrs can vary, call to confirm.

Murphys

10 miles northeast of Angels Camp.

Murphys is the Gold Country’s most compact, most orderly town, with enough shops and restaurants to keep families busy for at least a half-day, and more than 20 tasting rooms within walking distance. A well-preserved town of white-picket fences, Victorian houses, and interesting shops, it exhibits an upscale vibe. Horatio Alger and Ulysses S. Grant came through here, staying at what’s now called the Murphys Historic Hotel & Lodge when they, along with many other 19th-century tourists, came to investigate the giant sequoia groves in nearby Calaveras Big Trees State Park.

Getting Here and Around

Murphys is 10 miles northeast of Highway 49 on Highway 4. You’ll need to drive here. Parking can be difficult on summer weekends.

Exploring

Calaveras Big Trees State Park.
The park protects hundreds of the largest and rarest living things on the planet—magnificent giant sequoia redwood trees. Some are 3,000 years old, 90 feet around at the base, and 250 feet tall. There are campgrounds and picnic areas; swimming, wading, fishing, and sunbathing on the Stanislaus River are popular in summer. Enjoy the “three senses” trail, designated for the blind, with interpretive signs in braille that guide visitors to touch the bark and encourage children to slow down and enjoy the forest in a more sensory way. | Off Hwy. 4, 15 miles northeast of Murphys, 4 miles northeast of Arnold | Angels Camp | 209/795–2334 | www.parks.ca.gov | $10 per vehicle | Park: daily sunrise–sunset. Visitor center: daily 10–4.

Ironstone Vineyards.
Tours here take in spectacular gardens and underground tunnels cooled by a waterfall, and include the automated performance of a restored silent-movie-era pipe organ. On display near the tasting room is a 44-pound specimen of crystalline gold. The winery, known for Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc, hosts concerts and other events. Its deli has picnic items. TIP Ironstone is worth a visit even if you don’t drink wine. | 1894 6 Mile Rd. | From Jones St. in town, head south on Scott St. | 209/728–1251 | www.ironstonevineyards.com | Tastings $5 | Daily 10–5; open until 6 in summer.

Where to Eat and Stay

Grounds.
$$ | AMERICAN | Light entrées, grilled vegetables, chicken, seafood, and steak are the specialties at this bustling bistro and coffee shop with a good wine list. Sandwiches, salads, and homemade soups are served for lunch. The crowd is friendly and the service attentive. | Average main: $20 | 402 Main St. | 209/728–8663 | www.groundsrestaurant.com.

Dunbar House 1880.
$$$ | B&B/INN | The oversize rooms in this elaborate Italianate-style home have brass beds, down comforters, gas-burning stoves, and claw-foot tubs. Broad wraparound verandas encourage lounging, as do the colorful gardens and large elm trees. Guests arrive to find a complimentary appetizer plate, bottle of local wine, and beer. A “full country candlelight breakfast” is accompanied by trickling fountains; fresh cookies are available all day. Pros: great breakfasts; lovely gardens; wonderful town. Cons: pricey. | Rooms from: $207 | 271 Jones St. | 209/728–2897, 800/692–6006 | www.dunbarhouse.com | 3 rooms, 2 suites | Breakfast.

Murphys Historic Hotel & Lodge.
$ | HOTEL | This 1855 stone hotel, whose register has seen the signatures of Mark Twain and the bandit Black Bart, figured in a Bret Harte short story. Accommodations are in the hotel and a modern motel-style addition. The older rooms are furnished with antiques, many of them large and handcarved. The hotel has a convivial old-time restaurant ($$) and dark saloon, with a multitude of mounted animal heads. Pros: historical ambience; great bar; downtown location. Cons: dated; creaky. | Rooms from: $119 | 457 Main St. | 209/728–3444, 800/532–7684 | www.murphyshotel.com | 29 rooms, 21 with bath | No meals.

Columbia

14 miles south of Angels Camp.

Columbia is the gateway for Columbia State Historic Park, one of the Gold Country’s most visited sites. The historic Fallon House Theater is a great place for families to participate in living history activities like candle dipping and soap making on weekends. There are several inviting spots for a picnic in the area.

Getting Here and Around

The only way to get here is by car, via either Highway 4 (the northern route) or Highway 49 (the southern) from Angels Camp.

Exploring

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Columbia State Historic Park.
Columbia comes as close to a gold-rush town in its heyday as any site in the Gold Country. Usually you can ride a stagecoach, pan for gold, and watch a blacksmith working at an anvil. Street musicians perform in summer. Restored or reconstructed buildings include a Wells Fargo Express office, a Masonic temple, an old-fashioned candy store, saloons, a firehouse, churches, a school, and a newspaper office. At times, all are staffed to simulate a working 1850s town. The park also includes the must-stop, Historic Fallon House Theater, where Broadway-quality shows are performed Wednesday through Sunday—Mark Twain once performed in this gorgeous Victorian structure. The town’s two 19th-century historic lodgings, the Fallon Hotel ($) and City Hotel ($–$$) perch you in the past; to reserve a hotel or cottage go to www.reserveamerica.com. | 11255 Jackson St. | 209/588–9128 | www.parks.ca.gov/columbia | Free | Daily 9–5.

The Arts

Sierra Repertory Theater Company.
The company presents a full season of dramas, comedies, and musicals at the Historic Fallon House Theater and another venue in East Sonora. | 11175 Washington St. | 209/532–3120 | www.sierrarep.com.

Sonora

4 miles south of Columbia.

Miners from Mexico founded Sonora and made it the biggest town in the Mother Lode. Following a period of racial and ethnic strife, the Mexican settlers moved on, and Yankees built the commercial city visible today. Sonora’s historic downtown section sits atop the Big Bonanza Mine, one of the richest in the state. Another mine, on the site of nearby Sonora High School, yielded 990 pounds of gold in a single week in 1879. Reminders of the gold rush are everywhere in Sonora, in prim Victorian houses, typical Sierra-stone storefronts, and awning-shaded sidewalks. Reality intrudes beyond the town’s historic heart, with strip malls, shopping centers, and modern motels.

Getting Here and Around

Arrive in Sonora by car via Highway 49 (if coming from Columbia, drive south on Parrots Ferry Road). Parking can be difficult on the busy main drag, Washington Street (Highway 49).

Exploring

Tuolumne County Museum and History Center.
The small museum occupies a historic gold rush–era building that served as a jail until 1960. Vintage firearms and paraphernalia, gold specimens, and MiWuk baskets are among the many artifacts on display. | 158 W. Bradford St. | 209/532–1317 | www.tchistory.org | Free | Weekdays 10–4, Sat. 10–3:30.

Where to Eat and Stay

Diamondback Grill and Wine Bar.
$ | AMERICAN | The bright decor and refined atmosphere suggest more ambitious fare, but burgers are what this place is about. Locals crowd the tables, especially after 6 pm, for the ground-meat patties, beer-battered onion rings, veggie burgers, and fine wines. | Average main: $11 | 93 S. Washington St. | 209/532–6661 | www.thediamondbackgrill.com | Closed Sun.

Barretta Gardens Bed and Breakfast Inn.
$$ | B&B/INN | This inn is perfect for a romantic getaway, with elegant Victorian rooms varying in size, all furnished with period pieces. The three antiques-filled parlors carry on the Victorian theme. The breakfast porch overlooks the town, a fountain, and mature gardens. Some suites have private entrances, Jacuzzis, soaking tubs, or fire stoves. There is one handicap-accessible room. Pros: lovely grounds; yummy breakfasts; romantic. Cons: only seven rooms. | Rooms from: $159 | 700 S. Barretta St. | 209/532–6039, 800/206–3333 | www.barrettagardens.com | 7 rooms | Breakfast.

Best Western Sonora Oaks Motor Hotel.
$$ | HOTEL | The standard motel-issue rooms at this East Sonora establishment are clean and roomy; the larger ones have outdoor sitting areas. Suites have fireplaces, whirlpool tubs, and tranquil hillside views. Because the motel is right off Highway 108, the front rooms can be noisy. Pros: clean, modern rooms; central location. Cons: highway noise; not downtown. | Rooms from: $125 | 19551 Hess Ave. | 209/533–4400, 800/532–1944 | www.bwsonoraoaks.com | 84 rooms, 17 suites | Breakfast.

Jamestown

4 miles south of Sonora.

Compact Jamestown supplies a touristy view of gold rush–era life. Shops in brightly colored buildings along Main Street sell antiques and gift items. You can try your hand at panning for gold here or explore a bit of railroad history.

Getting Here and Around

Jamestown lies at the intersection of north–south Highway 49 and east–west Highway 108. You’ll need a car to tour here.

Exploring

FAMILY | Gold Prospecting Adventures.
You’ll get a real feel (sort of) for the life of a prospector on the three-hour gold-panning excursions led by this outfit’s congenial tour guides. You might even strike gold at the Jimtown Mine. Reservations recommended. | 18170 Main St. | 209/984–4653, 800/596–0009 | www.goldprospecting.com | Call for hrs and fees.

Fodor’s Choice | Railtown 1897.
A must for rail enthusiasts and families with kids, this is one of the most intact early roundhouses (maintenance facilities) in North America. You can hop aboard a steam train for a 40-minute journey—bring along the family dog if you’d like. The docents entertain guests with tales about the history of locomotion. Listen to the original rotor and pulleys in the engine house and take in the smell of axle grease. Walk through a genteel passenger car with dusty-green velvet seats and ornate metalwork, where Grace Kelly and Gary Cooper filmed a scene in the epic Western High Noon. You can also climb onto a historic train to see where the fireman once shoveled coal into the tender. | 18115 5th Ave. | 209/984–3953 | www.railtown1897.org | Roundhouse tour $5; train ride $15 | Apr.–Oct., daily 9:30–4:30; Nov.–Mar., daily 10–3; train ride, weekends Apr.–Oct. (additional holiday rides are offered some weekends in late Nov. and Dec.).

Where to Stay

FAMILY | Black Oak Casino Resort.
$$$ | RESORT | About 12 miles east of Jamestown off Highway 108, this flashy, contemporary property appeals heavily to casino gamers, but it’s also just a nice place to stay with well-outfitted rooms (comfy bedding, down pillows, and alarm clocks with MP3 players) and a central Gold Country location. Family-friendly amenities include an arcade and bowling, and there are decent restaurants here, too. Willow Creek Lounge presents concerts by nationally touring acts on weekends. Pros: clean and spacious rooms; plenty of diversions on hand for both kids and adults. Cons: must go through smoky casino to reach bowling alley and restaurants; there’s nothing quaint or historic about this place. | Rooms from: $189 | 19400 Tuolumne Rd. N | Tuolumne | 209/928–9300 | www.blackoakcasino.com | 148 rooms | No meals.

McCaffrey House Bed and Breakfast Inn.
$$ | B&B/INN | Remoteness is one of McCaffrey’s appeals—it’s about 20 miles east of Jamestown on Highway 108 in the mountain community of Twain Harte. Its other draws are lovely furnishings and friendly innkeepers. Each room has a private bath, a black-iron fire stove, and bed quilts that were made in Pennsylvania Amish country. Coffee, tea, and snacks are served in the afternoon; wine and cheese daily at 5 pm. Pros: large rooms; wonderful nearby hiking; romantically remote. Cons: too remote for some. | Rooms from: $169 | 23251 Hwy. 108 | Twain Harte | 209/586–0757, 888/586–0757 | www.mccaffreyhouse.com | 8 rooms | Breakfast.

National Hotel.
$$ | HOTEL | The National has been in business since 1859, and its furnishings—brass beds, regal comforters, and lace curtains—are authentic but not overly embellished. The saloon, which still has its original redwood bar, is a great place to linger. The popular restaurant ($$) serves special sandwiches and a variety of salads and pastas for lunch. Dinners feature more upscale Continental cuisine (reservations essential). Pros: historic feel; great brunches. Cons: not much happens in town after dark. | Rooms from: $140 | 18183 Main St. | 209/984–3446, 800/894–3446 in California | www.national-hotel.com | 9 rooms | Breakfast.

Mariposa

50 miles south of Jamestown.

Mariposa marks the southern end of the Mother Lode. Much of the land in this area was part of a 44,000-acre land grant Colonel John C. Fremont acquired from Mexico before gold was discovered and California became a state. Many people stop here on the way to Yosemite National Park, about an hour’s drive east on Highway 140.

Getting Here and Around

If driving, take Highway 49 or Highway 140. YARTS (www.yarts.com), the regional transit system, can get you to Mariposa from the Central Valley town of Merced (where you can also transfer from Amtrak) or from Yosemite Valley. Otherwise, you’ll need a car to get here and around.

Exploring

FAMILY | California State Mining and Mineral Museum.
A California State Park since 1999, the museum has displays on gold-rush history including a replica hard-rock mine shaft to walk through, a miniature stamp mill, and a 13-pound chunk of crystallized gold. In 2012 thieves stole almost $2 million in gold and jewels; suspects were soon arrested, but only some of the items were recovered. | 5005 Fairground Rd., off Hwy. 49 | 209/742–7625 | www.parks.ca.gov | $4 | May–Sept., Thurs.–Sun. 10–5; Oct.–Apr., Thurs.–Sun. 10–4.

Mariposa Museum and History Center.
You’ll leave this small museum feeling like you just found your own gold nugget. Detailed exhibits, both indoors and out, tell the history of Mariposa County. Visit a replica of a typical miner’s cabin; see a working stamp mill; tour the blacksmith shop. Artifacts, photographs, and maps, along with the knowledgeable staff, will capture your imagination and transport you back to 1849. | 5119 Jessie St. | 209/966–2924 | www.mariposamuseum.com|$5 | Daily 10–4.

Where to Eat and Stay

Charles Street Dinner House.
$$$ | AMERICAN | Charles Street remains the classiest dinner joint in town. Another plus: it’s centrally located. The extensive menu includes beef, chicken, pork, lamb, duck, lobster, and a few vegetarian options. | Average main: $25 | Hwy. 140 and 7th St. | 209/966–2366 | www.charlesstreetdinnerhouse.net | No lunch weekends.

Savoury’s.
$$ | AMERICAN | The pasta and fresh bread at Savoury’s receive especially enthusiastic praise from locals; vegetarians and vegans will find lots of options. Everything about this place exudes competence and class. Kids might find it stuffy, though. | Average main: $22 | 5034 Hwy. 140 | 209/966–7677 | www.savouryrestaurant.com | Closed Wed. No lunch.

Little Valley Inn.
$$ | B&B/INN | Historical photos and old mining tools add a little charm to this modern lodging, located about 7 miles south of Mariposa. A suite that sleeps five people includes a full kitchen. All rooms have private entrances, baths, and decks. Pros: quiet; comfortable; small. Cons: about an hour from Yosemite National Park; not near anything of tourism consequence. | Rooms from: $130 | 3483 Brooks Rd., off Hwy. 49 | 209/742–6204, 800/889–5444 | www.littlevalley.com | 5 rooms, 1 suite | Breakfast.

Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents