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Coloma | Auburn | Grass Valley
Gold has had a significant presence along this northern stretch of Highway 49, whose highlights include the bucolic Empire State Historic Park and Coloma, where the discovery of a few nuggets triggered the gold rush.
Coloma
8 miles northwest of Placerville.
The California gold rush started in Coloma. “My eye was caught with the glimpse of something shining in the bottom of the ditch,” James Marshall recalled. Marshall himself never found any more “color,” as gold came to be called.
Getting Here and Around
A car is the only practical way to get to Coloma, via Highway 49. Once parked, you can walk to all the worthwhile sights.
Exploring
FAMILY | Marshall Gold Discovery State Historic Park.
Most of Coloma lies within the historic park. Though crowded with tourists in summer, Coloma hardly resembles the mob scene it was in 1849, when 2,000 prospectors staked out claims along the streambed. The town’s population grew to 4,000, supporting seven hotels, three banks, and many stores and businesses. But when reserves of the precious metal dwindled, prospectors left as quickly as they had come. A working reproduction of an 1840s mill lies near the spot where James Marshall first saw gold. A trail leads to a modest sign (considering the impact) marking his discovery. TIP Take a stroll up the surrounding hills for sublime views. | 310 Back St., off Hwy. 49 | 530/622–3470 | www.parks.ca.gov | $8 per vehicle | Park daily 8–sunset. Museum Mar.–Nov., 10–5; Nov.–Mar., 10–4.
Auburn
18 miles northwest of Coloma; 34 miles northeast of Sacramento.
Auburn is the Gold Country town most accessible to travelers on Interstate 80. An important transportation center during the gold rush, downtown Auburn has a small Old Town district with narrow climbing streets, cobblestone lanes, wooden sidewalks, and many original buildings. TIP Fresh produce, flowers, baked goods, and gifts are for sale at the farmers’ market, held on Saturday morning year-round.
Getting Here and Around
Amtrak serves Auburn, though most visitors arrive by car on Highway 49 or Interstate 80. Once downtown, you can tour on foot.
Exploring
Bernhard Museum Complex.
Party like it’s 1889 at this space whose main structure opened in 1851 as the Traveler’s Rest Hotel and for 100 years was the residence of the Bernhard family. The congenial docents, dressed in Victorian garb, describe the family’s history and 19th-century life in Auburn. | 291 Auburn–Folsom Rd. | 530/889–6500 | www.placer.ca.gov | Free | Tues.–Sun. 11–4.
FAMILY | Gold Country Museum.
You’ll get a feel for life in the mines at this museum whose highlights include a re-created mine tunnel, a gold-panning stream, and a reproduction saloon. | 601 Lincoln Way | 530/889–6500 | Museum free, $3 to pan for gold | Tues.–Sun. 11–4.
Placer County Courthouse.
Auburn’s standout structure is the Placer County Courthouse. The classic gold-dome building houses the Placer County Museum, which documents the area’s history—Native American, railroad, agricultural, and mining—from the early 1700s to 1900. | 101 Maple St. | 530/889–6500 | Free | Daily 10–4.
Where to Eat and Stay
Fodor’s Choice | Carpe Vino.
$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Chef Eric Alexander is known for his hearty and imaginative French-inspired dishes—sophisticated fare presented in a nonchalant, almost effortless way, as if ingredients rolled right from the farm basket onto your plate. Consider purple and yellow beets in olive oil with fans of sliced fennel stalks and creamy panna cotta, roasted bone marrow, duck-fat fries, and brothy mussels steamed with lemon and chilies. This gem is tucked into an old downtown saloon and mine with a handsome old bar. Note the extensive and varied wine list. | Average main: $28 | 1568 Lincoln Way | 530/823–0320 | www.carpevinoauburn.com | Closed Mon.
Comfort Inn.
$ | HOTEL | The contemporary-style rooms here are softened with teal and pastel colors. Though it’s close to the freeway, the motel is fairly quiet. The expanded Continental breakfast includes many choices of baked goods, cereals, fruits, and juices. Pros: quiet; well-maintained. Cons: lacks character. | Rooms from: $89 | 1875 Auburn Ravine Rd. | 530/885–1800, 800/626–1900 | www.comfortinn.com/auburn | 78 rooms, 2 suites | Breakfast.
Holiday Inn Auburn Hotel.
$$ | HOTEL | Above the freeway across from Old Town, this hotel has a welcoming lobby and chain-standard but nice rooms. All rooms have work areas and coffeemakers. Pros: full-service restaurant on premises; convenient; clean; books available on loan. Cons: noise in rooms near parking lot. | Rooms from: $162 | 120 Grass Valley Hwy. | 530/887–8787, 800/814–8787 | www.auburnhi.com | 89 rooms, 7 suites | No meals.
Grass Valley
24 miles north of Auburn.
More than half of California’s total gold production was extracted from mines around Grass Valley, including the Empire Mine, which, along with the North Star Mining Museum, is among the Gold Country’s most fascinating attractions.
Getting Here and Around
You’ll need a car to get here. Take Highway 20 east from Interstate 5 or west from Interstate 80. Highway 49 is the north–south route into town. Gold Country Stage vehicles (530/477–0103 | Weekdays 7–6) serve some attractions. Expect to wait, though.
Exploring
FAMILY | Empire Mine State Historic Park.
Relive the days of gold, grit, and glory, when this mine was one of the biggest and most prosperous hard-rock gold mines in North America. Visit Bourn Cottage with its exquisite woodwork, lovely fountains, and stunning gardens. On a tour, you can walk into a mineshaft and peer into its dark, deep recesses—you can almost imagine what it felt like to work this vast operation. An estimated 5.8 million ounces of gold were extracted from the mine’s 367 miles of underground passages during its lifetime. Dressed-up docents portraying colorful characters who shaped Northern California’s history share stories about the period. The grounds have picnic tables and gentle trails—perfect for a family outing. | 10791 E. Empire St. | 530/273–8522 | www.empiremine.org | $7 | Daily 10–5.
Holbrooke Hotel.
The recently refurnished landmark hotel ($$), built in 1851, hosted entertainer Lola Montez and writer Mark Twain as well as Ulysses S. Grant and other U.S. presidents. The restaurant-saloon ($$) is one of the oldest operating west of the Mississippi. | 212 W. Main St. | 530/273–1353, 800/933–7077 | www.holbrooke.com.
Lola Montez House.
In the center of town, on the site of the original, stands a reproduction of the home of Lola Montez, the notorious dancer, singer, and courtesan whose popularity with gold-rush-era miners derived from her suggestive “spider dance.” Lola repaired to Grass Valley after wearing out her welcome in Europe, where her lovers included the composer Franz Liszt and the ill-fated King Ludwig of Bavaria. (Her calls for democracy contributed to Ludwig’s overthrow and her banishment as a witch—or so the story goes.) Religion has recently found Lola: A local church now owns this site. | 248 Mill St.
FAMILY | North Star Mining Museum.
Housed in a former powerhouse, the museum displays the 32-foot-high Pelton Water Wheel, said to be the largest ever built. It was used to power mining operations and was a forerunner of the modern turbines that generate hydroelectricity. Hands-on displays are geared to children. You can picnic nearby. | 10933 Allison Ranch Rd. | 530/273–4255 | www.nevadacountyhistory.org | By donation | May–Oct., Wed.–Sat. 11–5, Sun. 12–4.
Where to Eat
Cousin Jack Pasties.
$ | BRITISH | Meat- and vegetable-stuffed pasties are a taste of the region’s history, having come across the Atlantic with Cornish miners and their families in the mid-19th century. The flaky crusts practically melt in your mouth. A simple food stand, Jack’s is nonetheless a local landmark. | Average main: $8 | 100 S. Auburn St. | 530/272–9230 | No credit cards | Mon.–Sat. 11–5, Sun. 11–4:15.
Nevada City 4 miles north of Grass Valley.
Nevada City, once known as the Queen City of the Northern Mines, is the most appealing of the northern Mother Lode towns. The iron-shutter brick buildings that line the narrow downtown streets contain antiques shops, galleries, boutiques, B&Bs, restaurants, and a winery. Horse-drawn carriage tours add to the romance, as do gas street lamps. At one point in the 1850s, Nevada City had a population of nearly 10,000—enough to support much cultural activity. Today, about 3,000 people live here.
Getting Here and Around
You’ll need a car to get here. Take Highway 20 east from Interstate 5 or west from Interstate 80. Highway 49 is the north–south route into town. Gold Country Stage vehicles (530/477–0103 | Weekdays 7–6) serve some attractions.
Essentials
Visitor Information
Nevada City Chamber of Commerce. | 132 Main St. | 530/265–2692 | www.nevadacitychamber.com.
Exploring
Firehouse No. 1.
With its gingerbread-trim bell tower, Firehouse No. 1 is one of the Gold Country’s most distinctive buildings. A museum, it houses gold-rush artifacts and the altar from a Chinese joss house (temple). | 214 Main St. | 530/265–5468 | www.nevadacountyhistory.org | Donation suggested | May–Oct., Tues.–Sun. 1–4.
Miners Foundry.
The foundry, erected in 1856, produced machines for gold mining and logging. The Pelton Water Wheel, a power source for the mines (the wheel also jump-started the hydroelectric power industry), was invented here. The building is now used to stage art, dance, music, and film events. | 325 Spring St. | 530/265–5040 | www.minersfoundry.org.
Nevada City Winery.
Watch wine being created while you sip at this winery whose tasting room overlooks the production area. Syrah and Zinfandel are among the strengths here. | Miners Foundry Garage,321 Spring St., at Bridge St. | 530/265–9463, 800/203–9463 | www.ncwinery.com | Tasting and tour free | Sun.–Thurs. noon–5, Fri. and Sat. noon–6; tour on Sat. at 1:30.
Nevada Theatre.
This redbrick edifice, constructed in 1865, is California’s oldest theater building. Mark Twain, Emma Nevada, and many other notable people appeared on its stage. These days, plays and old films are presented here. | 401 Broad St., at Commercial St. | 530/265–6161, 530/274–3456 for film showtimes | www.nevadatheatre.com.
Where to Eat and Stay
Cirino’s at Main Street.
$$ | ITALIAN | Since 1983, American–Italian dishes—seafood, pasta, and veal—have been featured at this family-owned spot which draws loyal locals and curious tourists alike. A ceiling full of star-like white lights helps create a warm atmosphere. | Average main: $20 | 213 W. Main St. | Grass Valley | 530/477–6000 | www.cirinosatmainstreet.com.
Friar Tuck’s.
$$$ | ECLECTIC | Popular Friar Tuck’s specializes in creative, interactive fondues and has an extensive menu of seafood, steaks, and pasta dishes, too. The sparkling interior has a late-19th century ambience—it’s one of Nevada City’s best indoor spaces. | Average main: $25 | 111 N. Pine St. | 530/265–9093 | friartucks.com | No lunch.
New Moon Cafe.
$$$ | AMERICAN | An attractively lighted room gives diners a cozy feeling, though some patrons complain about the high noise level. Organic flours and free-range meats are used when available. | Average main: $30 | 203 York St. | 530/265–6399 | www.thenewmooncafe.com | Closed Mon. No lunch weekends.
South Pine Cafe.
$ | AMERICAN | Locals flock here, especially for brunch. Lobster and beef are on the menu, but the real attention-grabbers are vegetarian entrées and side dishes, such as breakfast potatoes and apple-ginger muffins. There’s a branch in Grass Valley at 102 North Richardson Street. | Average main: $11 | 110 S. Pine St. | 530/265–0260 | www.southpinecafe.com | No dinner.
Deer Creek Inn.
$$$ | B&B/INN | The main veranda of this cozy 1860 Queen Anne Victorian overlooks lush gardens that roll past a rose-covered arbor to the creek below. You can even pan for gold in the creek. All rooms have private baths, as well as king- or queen-size beds. Nevada County wines and a three-course gourmet breakfast are included. Pros: cozy ambience; relaxing creek sounds; afternoon wine gathering. Cons: pricey. | Rooms from: $179 | 116 Nevada St. | 530/264–7038 | www.deercreekinn.net | 5 rooms | Breakfast.
Northern Queen Inn.
$$ | HOTEL | This creek-side inn consists mostly of typical motel rooms, but there are also some larger chalets and cottages in a secluded wooded area. Cottages have kitchenettes and the larger chalets have full kitchens. Pros: reasonable rates; secluded cabins. Cons: some furniture seems worn. | Rooms from: $129 | 400 Railroad Ave., Sacramento St. exit off Hwy. 49 | 530/265–5824, 800/226–3090 | www.northernqueeninn.com | 30 rooms, 8 chalets, 8 cabins | Breakfast.