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The most hotels, restaurants, ski resorts, and state parks are on the California side of the lake, but you’ll also encounter the most congestion and developed areas.

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South Lake Tahoe

60 miles south of Reno, 198 miles northeast of San Francisco.

The city of South Lake Tahoe’s raison d’être is tourism: the casinos of adjacent Stateline, Nevada; the ski slopes at Heavenly Mountain; the beaches, docks, bike trails, and campgrounds all around the south shore; and the backcountry of Eldorado National Forest and Desolation Wilderness. The main road into town, however, shows less attractive features: older motels, strip malls, and low-rise prefab-looking buildings that line both sides of U.S. 50. Though there are plenty of places to stay, we haven’t recommended many because they’re not top choices. The small city’s saving grace is its convenient location and bevy of services, as well as its gorgeous lake views.

Getting Here and Around

The main route into and through South Lake Tahoe is U.S. 50; signs say “Lake Tahoe Boulevard” in town. Arrive by car or, if coming from Reno Airport, take the South Tahoe Express bus. BlueGO operates daily bus service in the south shore area year-round, plus a ski shuttle from the large hotels to Heavenly Ski Resort in the winter.

Essentials

Exploring

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Heavenly Gondola.
Whether you ski or not, you’ll appreciate the impressive view of Lake Tahoe from the Heavenly Gondola. Its eight-passenger cars travel from the middle of town 2.4 miles up the mountain in 15 minutes. When the weather’s fine, you can take one of three hikes around the mountaintop and then have lunch at Tamarack Lodge. Heavenly also offers day care for children. | 4080 Lake Tahoe Blvd. | 775/586–7000, 800/432–8365 | www.skiheavenly.com | $48 | Summer daily 10–5; winter weekdays 9–4, weekends 8:30–4.

Heavenly Village.
The centerpiece of South Lake Tahoe’s efforts to reinvent itself and provide a focal point for tourism, this complex at the base of the gondola has restaurants, some good shopping, a cinema, an arcade for kids, the Heavenly Village Outdoor Ice Rink in winter, and miniature golf in summer. | 1001 Heavenly Village Way, at U.S. 50 | www.theshopsatheavenly.com.

Where to Eat

Blue Angel Café.
$ | ECLECTIC | A favorite of locals, who fill the dozen or so wooden tables, this cozy spot with Wi-Fi serves basic sandwiches and salads along with internationally inspired dishes like chipotle shrimp tacos and Thai curry. On cold days warm up with wine or an espresso in front of the fireplace. | Average main: $14 | 1132 Ski Run Blvd., at Larch Ave. | 530/544–6544 | www.blueangelcafe.com.

The Cantina.
$ | MEXICAN | A casual Tahoe favorite, the Cantina serves traditional Mexican dishes—huge burritos, enchiladas, and rellenos—as well as stylized Southwestern fare such as smoked-chicken polenta with grilled vegetables, and crab cakes in jalapeño cream sauce. The bartenders make great margaritas and serve 30 different kinds of beer. | Average main: $14 | 765 Emerald Bay Rd., Hwy. 89, at 10th St. | 530/544–1233 | www.cantinatahoe.com | Reservations not accepted.

Fodor’s Choice | Evan’s American Gourmet Cafe.
$$$$ | ECLECTIC | Its excellent service, world-class food, and superb wine list make this the top choice for high-end dining in South Lake. Inside a converted cabin, the restaurant serves creative American cuisine that includes catch-of-the-day seafood offerings and meat dishes such as rack of lamb marinated with rosemary and garlic and served with raspberry demi-glace. Some diners find the table spacing a tad close. Evan’s is intimate, to be sure, but the food always pleases. | Average main: $33 | 536 Emerald Bay Rd., Hwy. 89, at 15th St. | 530/542–1990 | evanstahoe.com | No lunch.

Freshies.
$$ | ECLECTIC | When you’ve had your fill of junk food, come here for delicious, healthful meals prepared with an “earth-friendly” attitude and commitment. Specialties include seafood and vegetarian dishes, but good grilled meats are always available, such as teriyaki beef stir fry, and spare ribs with Hawaiian barbecue sauce. Freshies is in a mini-mall, and can be loud and crowded—try to snag a spot on the upstairs lake-view deck. | Average main: $16 | Lakeview Plaza,3330 Lake Tahoe Blvd., at Fremont Ave. | 530/542–3630 | www.freshiestahoe.com | Reservations not accepted | Closed Nov. until weekend after Thanksgiving.

Fresh Ketch.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | Fish is the specialty at this dockside restaurant, where you can look out at the yachts in the Tahoe Keys marina. The upstairs dining room serves full dinners (no lunch) that feature fresh seafood and meats. The menu downstairs in the lively fireside seafood bar, beginning with lunch, is lighter and more eclectic, with reasonably priced hot and cold appetizers, salads, and sandwiches served through dinner. Have a hankering for something sweet? Stop by for dessert only and enjoy the view. There’s live entertainment on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights year-round. | Average main: $24 | 2435 Venice Dr., off Tahoe Keys Blvd. | 530/541–5683 | www.thefreshketch.com | Daily in summer; winter hrs vary.

Kalani’s.
$$$$ | ASIAN | Fresh-off-the-plane seafood gets delivered from the Honolulu fish market to Heavenly Village’s sexiest (and priciest) restaurant. The sleek, white-tablecloth dining room is decked out with carved bamboo, a burnt-orange color palette, and a modern-glass sculpture, all of which complement contemporary Pacific Rim specialties such as melt-off-the-bone baby-back pork ribs with sesame-garlic soy sauce. Sushi selections with inventive rolls and sashimi combos, plus less expensive vegetarian dishes, add depth to the menu. | Average main: $34 | 1001 Heavenly Village Way, #26, at U.S. 50 | 530/544–6100 | www.kalanis.com | No lunch weekdays in winter.

Orchid’s Thai.
$ | THAI | If you’re hungry for Thai, stop here for good food at reasonable prices served in an attractive dining room. Tucked into a tiny mall, the restaurant isn’t fantastic, but it’s reliably good, and when every place in town is booked, this is a great backup. Carryout is available. | Average main: $13 | 2180 Lake Tahoe Blvd., at 3rd St. | 530/544–5541 | www.orchidstahoe.com.

Scusa! Italian Ristorante.
$$ | ITALIAN | This longtime favorite turns out big plates of veal scallopine, chicken piccata, and garlicky linguine with clams—straightforward Italian-American food (and lots of it), served in an intimate dining room warmed by a crackling fire on many nights. There’s an outdoor patio that’s open in warm weather. | Average main: $21 | 2543 Lake Tahoe Blvd., at Sierra Blvd. | 530/542–0100 | www.scusalaketahoe.com | No lunch.

Where to Stay

FAMILY | Aston Lakeland Village Beach and Mountain Resort.
$$ | HOTEL | Built in the 1970s, this 19-acre lakefront condominium complex has one- to five-bedroom semidetached town houses, and studios and suites in the lodge building. Each is individually owned and decorated. There’s no uniformity to the furnishings, but all units are spacious and come with fireplaces and fully equipped kitchens. Some have decks overlooking the lake, others face the highway; ask when you book. Lakeland is a great place for several families traveling together: the largest unit sleeps 12, and there’s lots of room on the grounds for kids to run around and explore. Pros: top choice for families; private beach; plenty of on-site activities. Cons: not close to town center; must drive or use resort’s shuttle to ski parks, casinos, and restaurants. | Rooms from: $195 | 3535 Lake Tahoe Blvd. | 530/544–1685, 877/997–6667 | www.astonlakelandvillage.com | 210 units | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Black Bear Inn Bed and Breakfast.
$$$ | B&B/INN | The rooms and cabins at South Lake Tahoe’s most luxurious inn feature 19th-century American antiques, fine art, and fireplaces; cabins also have kitchenettes. Built in the 1990s with meticulous attention to detail, the entire complex feels like one of the grand old lodges of the Adirondacks. Its great room has rough-hewn beams, plank floors, cathedral ceilings, Persian rugs, and even an elk’s head over the giant river-rock fireplace. Never intrusive, the affable innkeepers provide a sumptuous breakfast in the morning and wine and cheese in the afternoon. Pros: intimate; serene, woodsy grounds; within walking distance of good restaurants. Cons: not appropriate for children under 16; pricey. | Rooms from: $225 | 1202 Ski Run Blvd. | 530/544–4451, 877/232–7466 | www.tahoeblackbear.com | 5 rooms, 4 cabins | Breakfast.

FAMILY | Camp Richardson.
$ | HOTEL | An old-fashioned family resort that is built around a 1920s lodge, this property features a few dozen cabins and a small inn, all tucked beneath giant pine trees on 80 acres fronting Lake Tahoe. The rustic log cabin–style lodge has simple, straightforward accommodations. Some of the cabins (one-week minimum in summer) have fireplaces, or woodstoves, and full kitchens; a few units sleep eight. The Beachside Inn has more modern amenities and sits right on the lake, but its rooms feel like an ordinary motel. The resort sits well off the road, and there’s tons of space; kids have a blast here. Rates drop significantly in winter, plus you can snowshoe and zip along cross-country ski trails on the property. The resort has a strict no-pets policy. This is an older property showing its age; if modern amenities matter, look elsewhere. Pros: lakeside location; wide choice of lodgings. Cons: dated style; no phone or TV in some rooms. | Rooms from: $105 | 1900 Jameson Beach Rd. | 530/541–1801, 800/544–1801 | www.camprichardson.com | 27 lodge rooms, 38 cabins, 7 inn rooms, 212 campsites; 108 RV sites | No meals.

Forest Suites Resort.
$$ | HOTEL | The location of this resort is excellent—5½ acres bordering a forest, right behind the Heavenly Village, a half block from the casinos, and adjacent to a supermarket, cinema, and shops. Be sure to ask for an updated room. The Heavenly Gondola flies right over the roof. Pros: as close to the city center as pricier hotels; good bet for families. Cons: an older facility. | Rooms from: $159 | 1 Lake Pkwy. | 530/541–6655, 800/822–5950 | www.forestsuites.com | 17 rooms, 102 suites | Breakfast.

Inn by the Lake.
$$$ | HOTEL | Across the road from a beach, this “inn” is essentially a high-end motel, with spacious, spotless rooms and suites. Beds have fluffed and freshly covered duvets; you won’t find musty bedspreads here. All rooms have balconies; pricier rooms have lake views (across the road), wet bars, and kitchens. A cafe and bowling alley are next to the property. Pros: great value; stellar service; short drive from Heavenly Mountain. Cons: on busy Lake Tahoe Boulevard. | Rooms from: $180 | 3300 Lake Tahoe Blvd., at Fremont Ave. | 530/542–0330, 800/877–1466 | www.innbythelake.com | 90 rooms, 10 suites | No meals.

FAMILY | Lake Tahoe Resort Hotel.
$$$ | HOTEL | All rooms are suites at this large full-service hotel just over the state line in California, where there are no casinos to disturb the quiet of the lobby. The extra-spacious accommodations are perfect for families, because every unit contains a pull-out sofa and dining table that seats four. Rates include full breakfast and a voucher for one evening cocktail per adult guest. The room decor throughout the hotel is a blend of soothing earth tones; the center-of-town location—next to Heavenly Village and the high-speed gondola—is a huge plus. Pros: family-friendly; near ice rink and cinema. Cons: huge crowds on major weekends; rooms near breakfast area can be noisy. | Rooms from: $189 | 4130 Lake Tahoe Blvd. | 530/544–5400, 877/497–8483 | www.tahoeresorthotel.com | 400 suites | Breakfast.

Marriott’s Grand Residence and Timber Lodge.
$$$ | RESORT | You can’t beat the location of these two gigantic, modern condominium complexes right at the base of Heavenly Gondola, smack in the center of town. Though both are extremely comfortable, Timber Lodge feels more like a family vacation resort; Grand Residence is geared to upper-end travelers. Units vary in size from studios to three bedrooms, and some have amenities such as stereos, fireplaces, daily maid service, and full kitchens. Ask about vacation packages. Pros: central location; great for families; near excellent restaurants. Cons: can be jam-packed on weekends. | Rooms from: $195 | 1001 Heavenly Village Way | 530/542–8400 Marriott’s Grand Residence; 800/845–5279, 530/542–6600 Marriott’s Timber Lodge | www.marriott.com | 431 condos | No meals.

Sorensen’s Resort.
$$ | RESORT | Escape civilization by staying in a log cabin at this woodsy 165-acre resort within the Eldorado National Forest, 20 minutes south of town. You can lie on a hammock beneath the aspens or sit in a rocker on your own front porch. All but three of the cabins have a kitchen and wood-burning stove or fireplace. Cabins without kitchens include breakfast. Some cabins are close together, and the furnishings aren’t fancy (think futons as sofas), but there’s a wonderful summer-camp charm about the place that makes it special. There are also five modern homes that sleep six. The resort sits on the edge of the highway, which allows it to stay open in winter—a boon for skiers—but in summer, request a cabin away from the road. Pets are allowed in some rooms for a $10 daily fee. Pros: gorgeous, rustic setting. Cons: nearest nightlife is 20 miles away. | Rooms from: $135 | 14255 Hwy. 88 | Hope Valley | 530/694–2203, 800/423–9949 | www.sorensensresort.com | 2 rooms with shared bath, 29 cabins, 5 houses | No meals.

Tahoe Seasons Resort.
$$ | HOTEL | At this all-suites time-share hotel, a mere 150-yard walk from the Heavenly Mountain Resort ski area, every room has a two-person sunken hot tub. Most units were recently renovated; many have gas fireplaces, and some can sleep up to six people. The resort is situated in a somewhat residential part of town. Its Heavenly View Cafe, open daily, serves breakfast only; the Pub in the Pines is open Friday through Monday for drinks and simple dinners. Pros: steps from ski resort; less touristy location. Cons: no casinos or outside restaurants within walking distance. | Rooms from: $170 | 3901 Saddle Rd. | 530/541–6700 front desk, 800/540–4874 reservations | www.tahoeseasons.net | 183 suites | No meals.

Nightlife

Most of the area’s nightlife is concentrated in the casinos over the border in Stateline. To avoid slot machines and blinking lights, try the California-side nightspots in and near Heavenly Village. The Marriott Timber Lodge bars are always dependable.

Bars

Mc P’s Taphouse & Grill.
You can hear live bands—rock, jazz, blues, alternative—on most nights at Mc P’s while you sample a few of their 40 beers on draft. Lunch and dinner are served daily. | 4125 Lake Tahoe Blvd., Ste A, near Friday Ave. | 530/542–4435 | www.mcpstaphousetahoe.com.

Sports and the Outdoors

Fishing

Tahoe Sport Fishing.
One of the area’s largest and oldest fishing-charter services offers morning and afternoon trips. Outings include all necessary gear and bait, and the crew cleans and packages your catch. | 900 Ski Run Blvd., off U.S. 50 | 530/541–5448, 800/696–7797 in CA | www.tahoesportfishing.com | From $110.

Golf

Lake Tahoe Golf Course.
Set in a meadow with mountain views, this public championship course was designed by William Bell. The Upper Truckee River comes into play on several holes. The twilight rate ($39) starts at 4 pm. | 2500 Emerald Bay Rd, Hwy. 89/U.S. 50 | 530/577–0788 | www.laketahoegc.com | $67 for weekdays, $87 for weekends; $20 for golf cart | 18 holes, 6741 yards, par 71.

Hiking

The south shore is a great jumping-off point for day treks into nearby Eldorado National Forest and Desolation Wilderness.

Desolation Wilderness.
Trails within the 63,960-acre wilderness lead to gorgeous backcountry lakes and mountain peaks. It’s called Desolation Wilderness for a reason, so bring a topographic map and compass, and carry water and food. You need a permit for overnight camping (877/444–6777). In summer you can access this area by boarding a boat taxi ($12 one-way) at Echo Chalet (9900 Echo Lakes Rd., off U.S. 50, 530/659–7207, www.echochalet.com) and crossing Echo Lake. The Pacific Crest Trail also traverses Desolation Wilderness. | El Dorado National Forest Information Center | 530/644–2349 | www.fs.usda.gov/eldorado.

Pacific Crest Trail.
Hike a couple of miles on this famous mountain trail that stretches from Mexico to Canada. | Echo Summit, about 12 miles southwest of South Lake Tahoe off U.S. 50 | 916/285–1846, 888/728–7245 | www.pcta.org.

Ice-Skating

South Tahoe Ice Arena.
For year-round fun, head to this city-operated, NHL regulation–size indoor rink where you can rent equipment and sign up for lessons. In the evening the lights are turned low and a disco ball lights up the ice. | 1176 Rufus Allen Blvd. | 530/544–7465 | tahoearena.com | $15, includes skate rental | Daily, hrs vary.

Kayaking

Kayak Tahoe.
Sign up for lessons and excursions (to the south shore, Emerald Bay, and Sand Harbor), offered from May through September. You can also rent a kayak and paddle solo on the lake. | Timber Cove Marina,3411 Lake Tahoe Blvd., at Balbijou Rd. | 530/544–2011 | www.kayaktahoe.com | From $40.

Mountain Biking

Tahoe Sports Ltd.
You can rent road and mountain bikes and get tips on where to ride from the friendly staff at this full-service sports store. | Tahoe Crescent V Shopping Center,4008 Lake Tahoe Blvd. | 530/542–4000 | www.tahoesportsltd.com.

Skiing

If you don’t want to pay the high cost of rental equipment at the resorts, you’ll find reasonable prices and expert advice at Tahoe Sports Ltd.

Fodor’s Choice | Heavenly Mountain Resort.
Straddling two states, vast Heavenly Mountain Resort—composed of nine peaks, two valleys, and four base-lodge areas, along with the largest snowmaking system in the western United States—has terrain for every skier. Beginners can choose wide, well-groomed trails, accessed from the California Lodge or the gondola from downtown South Lake Tahoe; kids have short and gentle runs in the Enchanted Forest area all to themselves. The Sky Express high-speed quad chair whisks intermediate and advanced skiers to the summit for wide cruisers or steep tree-skiing. Mott and Killebrew canyons draw experts to the Nevada side for steep chutes and thick-timber slopes. For snowboarders and tricksters, there are five different terrain parks.

The ski school is big and offers everything from learn-to-ski packages to canyon-adventure tours. Call about ski and boarding camps. Skiing lessons are available for children ages four and up; there’s day care for infants older than six weeks. | Ski Run Blvd., off U.S. 50 | 775/586–7000, 800/432–8365 | www.skiheavenly.com | 97 trails on 4,800 acres, rated 20% beginner, 45% intermediate, 35% expert. Longest run 5½ miles, base 6,540 feet, summit 10,067 feet. Lifts: 30, including 1 aerial tram, 1 gondola, 2 high-speed 6-passenger lifts, and 8 high-speed quads.

Hope Valley Outdoors.
Operating from a yurt at Pickett’s Junction, Hope Valley provides lessons and equipment rentals to prepare you for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. The outfit has 60 miles of trails through Humboldt–Toiyabe National Forest, 10 of which are groomed. | Hwy. 88, at Hwy. 89 | Hope Valley | 530/721–2015 | www.hopevalleycrosscountry.com.

Kirkwood Ski Resort.
Thirty-six miles south of Lake Tahoe, Kirkwood is the hard-core skiers’ and boarders’ favorite south-shore mountain, known for its craggy gulp-and-go chutes, sweeping cornices, steep-aspect glade skiing, and high base elevation. But there’s also fantastic terrain for newbies and intermediates down wide-open bowls, through wooded gullies, and along rolling tree-lined trails. Tricksters can show off in two terrain parks on jumps, wall rides, rails, and a half-pipe, all visible from the base area. The mountain normally gets hammered with more than 600 inches of snow annually, and often has the most in all of North America. If you’re into out-of-bounds skiing, check out Expedition Kirkwood, a backcountry-skills program that teaches basic safety awareness. Kirkwood is also the only Tahoe resort to offer Cat-skiing. If you’re into cross-country, the resort has 80 km (50 miles) of superb groomed-track skiing, with skating lanes, instruction, and rentals. Nonskiers can snowshoe, snow-skate, and go dogsledding or snow-tubing. The children’s ski school has programs for ages 3 to 12. | 1501 Kirkwood Meadows Dr., off Hwy. 88, 14 miles west of Hwy. 89 | Kirkwood | 800/967–7500 information, 209/258–7248 cross-country, 209/258–7293 lodging information, 209/258–7332 snow phone | www.kirkwood.com | 87 trails on 2,300 acres, rated 12% beginner, 20% intermediate, 38% advanced, 30% expert. Longest run 2½ miles, base 7,800 feet, summit 9,800 feet. Lifts: 15, including 2 high-speed quads.

Sierra-at-Tahoe.
Often overlooked by skiers and boarders rushing to Heavenly or Kirkwood, Sierra-at-Tahoe has meticulously groomed intermediate slopes, some of the best tree-skiing in California, and gated backcountry access. Extremely popular with snowboarders, Sierra also has six terrain parks, including a super-pipe with 17-foot walls. For nonskiers there’s a snow-tubing hill. Sierra has a low-key atmosphere that’s great for families. Kids and beginners take the slow routes in the Mellow Yellow Zone. | 1111 Sierra-at-Tahoe Rd., 12 miles from South Lake Tahoe off U.S. 50, past Echo Summit | Twin Bridges | 530/659–7453 information, 530/659–7475 snow phone | www.sierraattahoe.com | 46 trails on 2,000 acres, rated 25% beginner, 50% intermediate, 25% advanced. Longest run 2½ miles, base 6,640 feet, summit 8,852 feet. Lifts: 14, including 3 high-speed quads.

Pope-Baldwin Recreation Area

5 miles west of South Lake Tahoe.

To the west of downtown South Lake Tahoe, U.S. 50 and Highway 89 come together, forming an intersection nicknamed “the Y.” If you head northwest on Highway 89, also called Emerald Bay Road, and follow the lakefront, commercial development gives way to national forests and state parks. One of these is Pope-Baldwin Recreation Area.

Getting Here and Around

The entrance to the Pope-Baldwin Recreation Area is on the east side of Emerald Bay Road. The area is closed to vehicles in winter, but you can cross-country ski here.

Exploring

Tallac Historic Site.
At this site you can stroll or picnic lakeside, and then explore three historic estates. The Pope House is the magnificently restored 1894 mansion of George S. Pope, who made his money in shipping and lumber and played host to the business and cultural elite of 1920s America. The Baldwin Museum is in the estate that once belonged to entrepreneur “Lucky” Baldwin; today it houses a collection of family memorabilia and Washoe Indian artifacts. The Valhalla (valhallatahoe.com), with a spectacular floor-to-ceiling stone fireplace, belonged to Walter Heller. Its Grand Hall and a lakeside boathouse, refurbished as a theater, host summertime concerts, plays, and cultural activities. Docents conduct tours of the Pope House in summer; call for tour times. In winter you can cross-country ski around the site. | Hwy. 89 | 530/541–5227 late May–Oct., 530/543–2600 year-round | tahoeheritage.org | Free, Pope House tour $8 | Grounds daily sunrise–sunset. Pope House and Baldwin Museum late May–late Sept., call for hrs.

FAMILY | Taylor Creek Visitor Center.
At this center operated by the U.S. Forest Service you can visit the site of a Washoe Indian settlement; walk self-guided trails through meadow, marsh, and forest; and inspect the Stream Profile Chamber, an underground display with windows right into Taylor Creek. In fall you may see spawning kokanee salmon digging their nests. In summer Forest Service naturalists organize discovery walks and evening programs. | Hwy. 89, 3 miles north of junction with U.S. 50 | 530/543–2674 late May–Oct., 530/543–2600 year-round | www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/ltbmu/recarea/?recid=11785 | Free | Late May–late Sept., 8:30–4:30; call for Oct. hrs.

Emerald Bay State Park

4 miles west of Pope-Baldwin Recreation Area.

You can hike, bike, swim, camp, scuba dive, kayak, or tour a lookalike Viking castle at this state park. Or you can simply enjoy the most popular tourist stop on Lake Tahoe’s circular drive: the high cliff overlooking Emerald Bay, famed for its jewel-like shape and color.

Getting Here and Around

The entrance to Emerald Bay State Park is on the east side of a narrow, twisting section of Highway 89. Caution is the keyword for both drivers and pedestrians. The park is closed to vehicles in winter.

Exploring

Fodor’s Choice | Emerald Bay.
A massive glacier millions of years ago carved this 3-mile-long and 1-mile-wide fjordlike inlet. Famed for its jewel-like shape and colors, the bay surrounds Fannette, Tahoe’s only island. Highway 89 curves high above the lake through Emerald Bay State Park; from the Emerald Bay lookout, the centerpiece of the park, you can survey the whole scene. This is one of the don’t-miss views of Lake Tahoe. The light is best in mid- to late morning, when the bay’s colors really pop. | Hwy. 89, 20 miles south of Tahoe City | 530/525–7232 | www.parks.ca.gov | $10 parking fee.

Vikingsholm.
This 38-room estate was completed in 1929. The original owner, Lora Knight, had this precise copy of a 1,200-year-old Viking castle built out of materials native to the area. She furnished it with Scandinavian antiques and hired artisans to build period reproductions. The sod roof sprouts wildflowers each spring. There are picnic tables nearby and a gray-sand beach for strolling. A steep 1-mile-long trail from the Emerald Bay lookout leads down to Vikingsholm, and the hike back up is hard (especially if you’re not yet acclimated to the elevation), although there are benches and stone culverts to rest on. At the 150-foot peak of Fannette Island are the ruins of a stone structure known as the Tea House, built in 1928 so that Knight’s guests could have a place to enjoy afternoon refreshments after a motorboat ride. The island is off-limits from February through mid-June to protect nesting Canada geese. The rest of the year it’s open for day use. | Hwy. 89 | 530/541–6498 summer, 530/525–7232 year-round | www.vikingsholm.com | Day-use parking fee $10; mansion tour $10 | Late May–Sept., daily 10:30–4.

Sports and the Outdoors

Hiking

Eagle Falls.
To reach these falls, leave your car in the parking lot of the Eagle Falls picnic area (near Vikingsholm; arrive early for a good spot), and walk up the short but fairly steep canyon nearby. You’ll have a brilliant panorama of Emerald Bay from this spot near the boundary of Desolation Wilderness. For a strenuous full-day hike, continue 5 miles, past Eagle Lake, to Upper and Middle Velma Lakes. Pick up trail maps at Taylor Creek Visitor Center in summer, or year-round at the main U.S. Forest Service Office in South Lake Tahoe, at 35 College Drive. | Hwy. 89 | South Lake Tahoe.

Swimming

Eagle Lake.
Past Eagle Falls (about 1 mile from the parking lot), this small lake is great for swimming. Dive into its cold, blue, alpine water. | South Lake Tahoe.

D.L. Bliss State Park

3 miles north of Emerald Bay State Park, 17 miles south of Tahoe City.

This park shares six miles of shoreline with adjacent Emerald Bay State Park, and has two white-sand beaches. Hike the Rubicon Trail for stunning views of the lake.

Getting Here and Around

The entrance to D.L. Bliss State Park is on the east side of Highway 89 just north of Emerald Bay. No vehicles are allowed in when the park is closed for the season.

Exploring

D.L. Bliss State Park.
This park takes its name from Duane LeRoy Bliss, a 19th-century lumber magnate. At one time Bliss owned nearly 75% of Tahoe’s lakefront, along with local steamboats, railroads, and banks. The park shares 6 miles of shoreline with Emerald Bay State Park; combined the two parks cover 1,830 acres, 744 of which the Bliss family donated to the state. At the north end of Bliss is Rubicon Point, which overlooks one of the lake’s deepest spots. Short trails lead to an old lighthouse and Balancing Rock, which weighs 250,000 pounds and balances on a fist of granite. The 4.5-mile Rubicon Trail—one of Tahoe’s premier hikes—leads to Vikingsholm and provides stunning lake views. Two white-sand beaches front some of Tahoe’s warmest water. | Hwy. 89 | 530/525–3345, 800/777–0369 | www.parks.ca.gov | $10 per vehicle, day use | Late May–Sept., daily sunrise–sunset.

Ed Z’berg Sugar Pine Point State Park

8 miles north of D. L. Bliss State Park, 10 miles south of Tahoe City.

Visitors love to hike, swim, and fish here in the summer, but this park is also popular in winter, when a small campground remains open. Eleven miles of cross-country ski and snowshoe trails allow beginners and experienced enthusiasts alike to whoosh through pine forests and glide past the lake.

Getting Here and Around

The entrance to Sugar Pine Point is on the east side of Highway 89, about a mile south of Tahoma. A bike trail links Tahoe City to the park.

Exploring

Hellman-Ehrman Mansion.
The main attraction at Sugar Pine Point State Park is Ehrman Mansion, a 1903 stone-and-shingle summer home furnished in period style. In its day it was the height of modernity, with electric lights and complete indoor plumbing. Also in the park are a trapper’s log cabin from the mid-19th century, a nature preserve with wildlife exhibits, a lighthouse, the start of the 10-mile biking trail to Tahoe City, and an extensive system of hiking and cross-country skiing trails. If you’re feeling less ambitious, you can relax on the sun-dappled lawn behind the mansion and gaze out at the lake. | Hwy. 89 | 530/525–7982 mansion in season, 530/525–7232 year-round | www.parks.ca.gov | $10 per vehicle, day use; mansion tour $10 | Mansion late May–Aug., daily 10–3; call for Sept. hrs.

Ed Z’Berg Sugar Pine Point State Park.
Named for a state lawmaker who sponsored key conservation legislation, Lake Tahoe’s largest state park has 2,000 acres of dense forests and nearly 2 miles of shore frontage. A popular spot during snow season, Sugar Pine provides 11 miles of cross-country trails and winter camping on a first-come, first-served basis. Rangers lead full-moon snowshoe tours from January to March. | Hwy. 89, 1 mile south of Tahoma | 530/525–7982, 530/525–7232 year-round | www.parks.ca.gov | $10 per vehicle, day use.

Tahoma

1 mile north of Ed Z’berg Sugar Pine Point State Park, 23 miles south of Truckee.

With its rustic waterfront vacation cottages, Tahoma exemplifies life on the lake in its quiet early days before bright-lights casinos and huge crowds proliferated. In 1960 Tahoma was host of the Olympic Nordic-skiing competitions. Today there’s little to do here except stroll by the lake and listen to the wind in the trees, making it a favorite home base for mellow families and nature buffs.

Getting Here and Around

Approach Tahoma by car on Highway 89, called West Lake Boulevard in this section. From the northern and western communities, take a TART bus to Tahoma. A bike trail links Tahoe City to Tahoma.

Where to Stay

Tahoma Meadows B&B Cottages.
$$ | B&B/INN | It’s hard to beat this serene property for atmosphere and woodsy charm; it’s a great retreat for families and couples. Sixteen individually decorated little red cottages sit beneath towering pine trees. Inside, they’re cheerful, with fun details like model ships on the shelf and a stuffed bear on the bed; some have claw-foot tubs and fireplaces. Cottages without kitchens include breakfast in the cozy, gable-roof lodge. Down-to-earth and simple, this is one of Tahoe’s best hideaways. Pros: lovely setting; good choice for families; close to Homewood ski resort. Cons: far from the casinos. | Rooms from: $169 | 6821 W. Lake Blvd. | 530/525–1553, 866/525–1553 | www.tahomameadows.com | 16 cabins | Breakfast.

Sports and the Outdoors

Skiing

Homewood Mountain Resort.
Schuss down these slopes for fantastic views—the mountain rises across the road from the Tahoe shoreline. This small, usually uncrowded resort is the favorite area of locals on a snowy day, because you can find lots of untracked powder. It’s also the most protected and least windy Tahoe ski area during a storm; when every other resort’s lifts are on wind hold, you can almost always count on Homewood’s to be open. There’s only one high-speed chairlift, but there are rarely any lines, and the ticket prices are some of the cheapest around—kids 5 to 12 ski for $24, and those four and under are free. The resort may look small as you drive by, but most of it isn’t visible from the road. | 5145 W. Lake Blvd., Hwy. 89, 6 miles south of Tahoe City | Homewood | 530/525–2992 information, 530/525–2900 snow phone | www.skihomewood.com | 64 trails on 2,010 acres, rated 15% beginner, 40% intermediate, and 45% advanced. Longest run 2 miles, base 6,230 feet, summit 7,880 feet. Lifts: 4 chairlifts, 4 surface lifts.

Tahoe City

9 miles north of Tahoma, 14 miles south of Truckee.

Tahoe City is the only lakeside town with a charming downtown area good for strolling and window-shopping. Stores and restaurants are all within walking distance of the Outlet Gates, where water is spilled into the Truckee River to control the surface level of the lake. You can spot giant trout in the river from Fanny Bridge, so-called for the views of the backsides of sightseers leaning over the railing.

Getting Here and Around

Tahoe City is at the junction of Highway 28, also called North Lake Boulevard, and Highway 89 where it turns northwest toward Squaw Valley and Truckee. TART buses serve the communities along the north and west shores, and connect them to Truckee.

Essentials

Visitor Information
Tahoe Visitor Information Center. | 530/581–6900, 888/434–1262 | www.gotahoenorth.com.

Exploring

Gatekeeper’s Museum.
This museum preserves a little-known part of the region’s history. Between 1910 and 1968 the gatekeeper who lived on this site was responsible for monitoring the level of the lake, using a hand-turned winch system (still used today) to keep the water at the correct level. Also on this site, the fantastic Marion Steinbach Indian Basket Museum displays 800 baskets from 85 tribes. | 130 W. Lake Blvd. | 530/583–1762 | www.northtahoemuseums.org | $5 | Late June–Sept., daily 10–5.

Watson Cabin Living Museum.
In the middle of Tahoe City sits a 1909 log cabin built by Robert M. Watson and his son. Now a museum, it’s filled with century-old furnishings and many reproductions. Docents are available to answer questions and will lead tours if you call ahead. | 560 N. Lake Blvd. | 530/583–8717, 530/583–1762 | www.northtahoemuseums.org | $2 | Late May–early Sept., Thurs.–Mon. 10–5.

Where to Eat

Christy Hill.
$$$ | AMERICAN | Huge windows give diners here some of the best lake views in Tahoe. The menu features solid Euro–Cal preparations of fresh seafood, filet of beef, and vegetarian dishes, as well as small plate offerings. The extensive wine list and exceptionally good desserts earn accolades, as do the gracious service and casual vibe. If the weather is balmy, have dinner on the deck. In any season, this is a romantic choice for lake gazing and wine sipping. | Average main: $27 | 115 Grove St., at N. Lake Blvd. | 530/583–8551 | www.christyhill.com | No lunch.

Fire Sign Café.
$ | AMERICAN | Watch the road carefully or you’ll miss this great little diner two miles south of Tahoe City on Highway 89. There’s often a wait for breakfast and lunch, but it’s worth it. The pastries are made from scratch, the salmon is smoked in-house, the salsa is hand cut, and there’s real maple syrup for the many types of pancakes and waffles. Leave room for dessert; a fruit cobbler is almost always on the menu. | Average main: $10 | 1785 W. Lake Blvd., at Fountain Ave. | 530/583–0871 | www.firesigncafe.com | Reservations not accepted | No dinner.

Syd’s Bagelry & Espresso.
$ | AMERICAN | For breakfast bagels and pastries and lunchtime salads and sandwiches, locals head to Syd’s, which brews good coffee and provides free Wi-Fi, too. Want the skinny on Tahoe City? Talk to Dean, the affable owner. | Average main: $8 | 550 N. Lake Tahoe Blvd., at Grove St. | 530/584–2384 | No dinner.

Fodor’s Choice | Wolfdale’s.
$$$ | ECLECTIC | Consistent, inspired cuisine makes Wolfdale’s one of the top restaurants on the lake. Seafood is the specialty on the changing menu; the imaginative entrées merge Asian and European cooking and lean toward the light and healthful, rather than the heavy and overdone. Everything from teriyaki glaze to smoked fish is made in-house. Request a window table, and book early enough to see the lake view from the elegantly simple dining room. | Average main: $30 | 640 N. Lake Blvd., near Grove St. | 530/583–5700 | www.wolfdales.com | Closed Tues. No lunch.

Where to Stay

Cottage Inn.
$$ | B&B/INN | Avoid the crowds by staying in one of these charming circa-1938 log cottages under the towering pines on the lake’s west shore. Cute as a button, with knotty-pine paneling, rustic pine furniture, and a gas-flame stone fireplace, each unit is decorated in old-Tahoe style but comes with modern comfort. Guests have access to a private beach and Wi-Fi in the lobby. Pros: romantic, woodsy setting; each room has a fireplace; full breakfast. Cons: no kids under 12. | Rooms from: $160 | 1690 W. Lake Blvd. | 530/581–4073, 800/581–4073 | www.thecottageinn.com | 22 rooms | Breakfast.

Mother Nature’s Inn.
$$ | HOTEL | Tahoe City’s best bargain is actually a two-story, motel-style array of rooms behind a home-furnishings store. The rooms have no views and get little light, but they’re surprisingly comfortable and remarkably well decorated. Low-season rates are hard to beat. Pros: good value; in the middle of town. Cons: pet-friendly rooms may bother those with allergies. | Rooms from: $125 | 551 N. Lake Blvd., Box 7075 | 530/581–4278, 800/558–4278 | www.mothernaturesinn.com | 8 rooms | No meals.

River Ranch Lodge.
$ | HOTEL | Tucked into a bend of the Truckee River, this intimate lodge is a short distance from major ski resorts and the town center. Each of the rooms has rustic pine furnishings and comfy bedding; most overlook the river. In summer you can watch rafts skim the rapids while enjoying the daily barbecue lunch on the patio. Fuel up for a day on the slopes with a complimentary continental breakfast. With prior arrangement, pets allowed in some rooms for a $15 nightly fee. Pros: beautiful river site; lounge with a gorgeous curved wall of windows. Cons: rooms on the parking lot side can be noisy. | Rooms from: $110 | Hwy. 89, at Alpine Meadows Rd. | 530/583–4264, 866/991–9912 | www.riverranchlodge.com | 19 rooms | Breakfast.

Fodor’s Choice | Sunnyside Steakhouse and Lodge.
$$$$ | HOTEL | The views are superb and the hospitality gracious at this lakeside lodge three miles south of Tahoe City. All but four rooms have balconies and locally crafted furnishings; some have river-rock fireplaces and wet bars, and some have pullout sofas. While the lodge is great for couples, families also favor it because of its proximity to kid-friendly Homewood Mountain Resort in winter, and water sports and hiking in summer. The inviting Sunnyside Steakhouse ($$$) echoes the design of old mahogany Chris Craft speedboats. The pricey steak, seafood, and pasta menu will thin out your wallet a bit; the Mountain Grill is a less expensive option, a good choice for those with kids in tow. Be forewarned: this is not a quiet place on summer weekends. The bar is a blast, and gets packed with boaters and bacchanalian revelers. Pros: complimentary continental breakfast and afternoon tea; most rooms have balconies overlooking the lake. Cons: can be pricey for families. | Rooms from: $265 | 1850 W. Lake Blvd. | 530/583–7200, 800/822–2754 | www.sunnysideresort.com | 18 rooms, 5 suites | Breakfast.

Sports and the Outdoors

Golf

Tahoe City Golf Course.
This 9-hole course, which opened in 1917, gives golfers views of Lake Tahoe. Rent a cart for $10. TIP All greens break toward the lake. | 251 N. Lake Blvd. | 530/583–1516 | www.playtcgc.com | $30 for 9 holes; $50 for 18 | 18 holes, 5261 yards, par 66.

Rafting

FAMILY | Truckee River Rafting.
In summer you can take a self-guided raft trip down a gentle 5-mile stretch of the Truckee River. This outfitter will shuttle you back to Tahoe City at the end of your two- to three-hour trip. On a warm day, this makes a great family outing. | 175 River Rd., near W. Lake Blvd. | 530/583–1111 | www.truckeeriverrafting.com | From $28.

Skiing

Fodor’s Choice | Alpine Meadows Ski Area.
With 450 inches of snow annually, Alpine has some of Tahoe’s most reliable conditions. It’s usually one of the first areas to open in November and one of the last to close in May or June. Alpine isn’t the place for show-offs; instead, you’ll find down-to-earth alpine fetishists. The two peaks here are well suited to intermediate skiers, with a number of runs for experts only. Snowboarders and hot-dog skiers will find a terrain park with a super-pipe, rails, and tabletops, as well as a boarder-cross course. Alpine is a great place to learn to ski and has a ski school that coaches those with physical and mental disabilities. On Saturday, because of the limited parking, there’s more acreage per person than at other resorts. Lift tickets are good at neighboring Squaw Valley; a free shuttle runs all day between the two ski parks. | 2600 Alpine Meadows Rd., off Hwy. 89, 6 miles northwest of Tahoe City and 13 miles south of Truckee | 530/583–4232, 800/403–0206, 800/403–0206 snow phone | www.squawalpine.com | 100 trails on 2,400 acres, rated 25% beginner, 40% intermediate, 35% advanced. Longest run 2½ miles, base 6,835 feet, summit 8,637 feet. Lifts: 13, including 1 high-speed 6-passenger lift and 2 high-speed quads.

Tahoe Dave’s Skis and Boards.
You can rent skis, boards, and snowshoes at this shop, which has the area’s best selection of downhill rental equipment. | 590 N. Lake Blvd. | 530/583–6415 | www.tahoedaves.com.

Olympic Valley

7 miles north of Tahoe City to Squaw Valley Road; 8½ miles south of Truckee.

Olympic Valley got its name in 1960, when Squaw Valley USA, the ski resort here, hosted the Winter Olympics. Snow sports remain the primary activity, but once summer comes, you can hike into the adjacent Granite Chief Wilderness, explore wildflower-studded alpine meadows, or lie by a swimming pool in one of the Sierra’s prettiest valleys.

Getting Here and Around

Squaw Valley Road, the only way into Olympic Valley, branches west off Highway 89 about 8 miles south of Truckee. TART connects the Squaw Valley ski area with the communities along the north and west shores, and Truckee, with year-round public transportation. Squaw Valley Ski Resort provides a free shuttle to many stops in those same areas.

Exploring

High Camp.
You can ride the Squaw Valley Aerial Tram to this activity hub, which at 8,200 feet commands superb views of Lake Tahoe and the surrounding mountains. In summer, go for a sunset hike, sit by the pool, or have a cocktail and watch the sunset. In winter you can ski, ice-skate, snow-tube, or go for a full-moon hike. There’s also a restaurant, a lounge, and a small Olympic museum. Pick up trail maps at the tram building. | Aerial Tram Bldg., Squaw Valley | 800/403–0206 | www.squawalpine.com/events-things-do/aerial-tram-rides | Aerial Tram, $39 | Daily; call for hrs.

FAMILY | Village at Squaw Valley.
The centerpiece of Olympic Valley is a pedestrian mall at the base of several four-story ersatz Bavarian stone-and-timber buildings, where you’ll find restaurants, high-end condo rentals, boutiques, and cafés. | 1750 Village East Rd. | 530/584–1000, 800/403–0206 information, 800/731–8021 condo reservations | www.squawalpine.com/explore/about/squaw-valley-village-map.

Where to Eat

FAMILY | Fireside Pizza Company.
$$ | PIZZA | Adults might opt for the signature pear and Gorgonzola pizza at this modern Italian restaurant, but most kids clamor for the house favorite: an Italian-sausage-and-pepperoni combo with a bubbly blend of four cheeses. Salads and pasta dishes round out the menu at this family-friendly spot. | Average main: $16 | The Village at Squaw Valley,1985 Squaw Valley Rd., #25 | 530/584–6150 | www.firesidepizza.com.

Graham’s of Squaw Valley.
$$$ | ECLECTIC | Sit by a floor-to-ceiling river-rock hearth under a knotty-pine peaked ceiling in the intimate dining room in the Christy Inn Lodge. The southern European–inspired menu changes often, but expect hearty entrées such as grilled beef tenderloin with wild mushroom sauce, along with lighter-fare small plates like quail with fig demi-glace or tasty crab salad. You can also stop in at the fireside bar for appetizers and wine from Graham’s highly regarded wine list. | Average main: $30 | 1650 Squaw Valley Rd. | 530/581–0454 | Closed Mon. and Tues. No lunch.

Mamasake.
$$ | JAPANESE | The hip sushi spot at Squaw serves stylized presentations. On some evenings you can sit at the bar and watch extreme ski movies, many of them filmed right outside the window. From 3 to 5 enjoy the afternoon special: a spicy-tuna or salmon hand roll and a can of Bud for six bucks. | Average main: $16 | 1850 Village South Rd. #52, off Squaw Valley Rd. | 530/584–0110 | mamasake.com.

Fodor’s Choice | PlumpJack Café.
$$$$ | AMERICAN | The best restaurant in the entire Tahoe Basin is the epitome of discreet chic for serious foodies. The menu changes seasonally, but look for filet mignon “Oscar” with Dungeness crab, braised short ribs with kimchi-Asian pear slaw, and inventive vegetarian dishes. Rather than complicated, heavy sauces, the chef uses simple reductions to complement a dish. The result: clean, dynamic flavors. The wine list is exceptional for its variety and reasonable prices. A less expensive but equally adventurous menu, including lunch, is served at the bar. | Average main: $35 | 1920 Squaw Valley Rd. | 530/583–1578, 800/323–7666 | www.plumpjacksquawvalleyinn.com | Reservations essential.

Where to Stay

Fodor’s Choice | PlumpJack Squaw Valley Inn.
$$$$ | HOTEL | Stylish and luxurious, this two-story, cedar-sided inn has a snappy, sophisticated look and laid-back sensibility, perfect for the Bay Area cognoscenti who flock here on weekends. All rooms have sumptuous beds with down comforters, high-end bath amenities, iPod docks, and hooded terry robes to wear on your way to the outdoor hot tubs. The bar is a happening après-ski destination, and the namesake restaurant (Fabove) is superb. PlumpJack may not have the bells and whistles of big luxury hotels, but the service—personable and attentive—can’t be beat. Not all rooms have tubs: if it matters, request one. A complimentary buffet breakfast for two is included. Pros: small; intimate; lots of attention to details. Cons: not the best choice for families with small children. | Rooms from: $275 | 1920 Squaw Valley Rd. | 530/583–1576, 800/323–7666 | www.plumpjacksquawvalleyinn.com | 56 rooms, 8 suites | Breakfast.

Resort at Squaw Creek.
$$$$ | RESORT | This multi-facility Squaw Valley resort offers a plethora of year-round activities. Restaurants, a golf course, spa, tennis courts, heated swimming pool, ice skating rink, a chairlift to the mountain, and groomed cross-country ski tracks on the property, plus all the amenities and services you could possibly want in the Tahoe area, make the resort a good choice for large groups and families in any season. The rooms are decorated in warm earth tones, with attractive wooden furnishings; about half the units are suites with fireplaces and kitchens. The resort makes the most of its gorgeous valley setting surrounded by forested mountains: expansive windows in all the rooms and massive ones in the lobby yield breathtaking views. Pros: every conceivable amenity; private chairlift to Squaw Valley USA for ski-in, ski-out. Cons: large and pricey. | Rooms from: $259 | 400 Squaw Creek Rd. | 530/583–6300, 800/327–3353 | www.squawcreek.com | 205 rooms, 200 suites | No meals.

The Village at Squaw Valley USA.
$$$ | HOTEL | Right at the base of the slopes, at the center point of Olympic Valley, the Village’s condominiums (from studio to three bedrooms) come complete with gas fireplaces, daily maid service, and heated slate-tile bathroom and kitchen floors. They are uniformly decorated with granite counters, wood cabinets, and comfortable furnishings. They’re especially appealing to families, since each condo can sleep at least four people. Pros: family-friendly; near Village restaurants and shops. Cons: claustrophobia-inducing crowds on weekends. | Rooms from: $199 | 1750 Village East Rd. | 530/584–1000, 888/259–1428 | www.squawalpine.com/lodging | 198 suites | No meals.

Sports and the Outdoors

Golf

Resort at Squaw Creek Golf Course.
For beautiful views of Squaw Valley’s surrounding peaks, play this narrow, challenging championship course designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr. Rates start at $99 with mid-range twilight fees beginning at noon for $79; the lowest rate, $59, starts at 3 pm. All fees include a golf cart plus valet parking. | 400 Squaw Creek Rd. | 530/583–6300, 530/581–6637 pro shop | www.squawcreek.com | $99 | 18 holes, 6931 yards, par 71.

Ice-Skating

FAMILY | Olympic Ice Pavilion.
Ice-skate here from late November to early March. A ride up the mountain in the Aerial Tram costs $39, plus $12 for skate rental and one hour of skate time. End your outing in the hot tub ($10). In summer the pavilion converts into a roller-skating rink. Year-round, you get fabulous views of the lake and the Sierra Nevada. | 1960 Squaw Valley Rd., High Camp, Squaw Valley | 800/403–0206 | www.squawalpine.com/events-things-do/ice-skating.

Miniature Golf

FAMILY | Squaw Valley Adventure Center.
Next to the Olympic Village Lodge, on the far side of the creek, this seasonal activities center has an 18-hole miniature golf course, a ropes course, and sometimes a bungee trampoline, a blast for kids. | 1960 Squaw Valley Rd. | 530/581–7563 | www.squawadventure.com.

Rock Climbing

Headwall Climbing Wall.
Before you rappel down a granite monolith, hone your skills at this challenging wall at the base of the Aerial Tram. | Squaw Valley Adventure Center,1960 Squaw Valley Rd. | 530/581–7563 | www.squawadventure.com.

Skiing

Resort at Squaw Creek.
Cross-country skiers enjoy looping through the valley’s giant alpine meadow. The resort rents ski equipment and provides trail maps. | 400 Squaw Creek Rd. | 530/583–6300, 530/581–6637 pro shop | www.squawcreek.com.

Fodor’s Choice | Squaw Valley USA.
Known for some of the toughest skiing in the Tahoe area, this park was the centerpiece of the 1960 Winter Olympics. Today it’s the definitive North Tahoe ski resort and among the top-three megaresorts in California (the other two are Heavenly and Mammoth). Although Squaw has changed significantly since the Olympics, the skiing is still world-class and extends across vast bowls stretched between six peaks. Experts often head directly to the untamed terrain of the infamous KT-22 face, which has bumps, cliffs, and gulp-and-go chutes, or to the nearly vertical Palisades, where many famous extreme-skiing films have been shot. Fret not, beginners and intermediates: you have plenty of wide-open, groomed trails at High Camp (which sits at the top of the mountain) and around the more challenging Snow King Peak. Snowboarders and show-off skiers can tear up the five fantastic terrain parks, which include a giant super-pipe. Ski passes are good at neighboring Alpine Meadows; free shuttles run all day between the two ski parks. | 1960 Squaw Valley Rd., off Hwy. 89, 7 miles northwest of Tahoe City | 800/731–8021 lodging reservations, 530/452–4355 snow phone, 800/403–0206 information | www.squawalpine.com | 170 trails on 3,600 acres, rated 25% beginner, 45% intermediate, 30% advanced. Longest run 3.2 miles, base 6,200 feet, summit 9,050 feet. Lifts: 29, including a gondola-style funitel, a tram, 7 high-speed chairs, and 15 fixed-grip chairs and 5 surface lifts.

Tahoe Dave’s Skis and Boards.
If you don’t want to pay resort prices, you can rent and tune downhill skis and snowboards at this shop. | 3039 Hwy. 89, at Squaw Valley Rd. | 530/583–5665 | www.tahoedaves.com.

Swimming

High Camp Pool and Hot Tub.
Enjoy dramatic mountaintop views while you swim at this pool. Afterward you can soak in the 25-foot hot tub. There’s a roller-skating rink, too. | 1960 Squaw Valley Rd. | 530/581–7255, 800/403–0206 | www.squawalpine.com/events-things-do/aerial-tram-rides | Aerial tram $39, pool and hot tub $10, skating rink $12.

Tennis

High Camp Tennis Courts.
The use of six summer-only courts on an 8,200-foot ridgeline is free with Tram ticket. Bring or rent racquets; high altitude tennis balls are available for sale. | 1960 Squaw Valley Rd. | 530/581–7255, 800/403–0206 | www.squawalpine.com/events-things-do/free-lake-tahoe-summer-activities | Aerial tram $39.

Truckee

13 miles northwest of Kings Beach, 14 miles north of Tahoe City.

Formerly a decrepit railroad town in the mountains, Truckee is now the trendy first stop for many Tahoe visitors. The town was officially established around 1863, and by 1868 it had gone from a stagecoach station to a major stopover for trains bound for the Pacific via the new transcontinental railroad. Every day, freight trains and Amtrak’s California Zephyr still idle briefly at the depot in the middle of town. Step inside the depot for a walking-tour map of historic Truckee.

Across from the station, where Old West facades line the main drag, you’ll find galleries, gift shops, boutiques, old-fashioned diners, and several remarkably good restaurants. Look for outlet stores, strip malls, and discount skiwear shops along Donner Pass Road, north of the freeway. Because of its location off Interstate 80, Truckee is a favorite stopover for people traveling from the San Francisco Bay Area to the north shore of Lake Tahoe, Reno, and points east.

Getting Here and Around

Truckee is off Interstate 80 between highways 89 and 267. Greyhound and Amtrak stop here, Enterprise and Hertz provide car rentals, and TART buses serve Truckee and north shore communities.

Essentials

Visitor Information
Truckee Donner Chamber of Commerce and the California Welcome Center. | Amtrak depot,10065 Donner Pass Rd., near Spring St. | 530/587–8808 chamber of commerce, 866/443–2027 welcome center | www.truckee.com.

Exploring Donner Memorial State Park and Emigrant Trail Museum.
The park and museum commemorate the Donner Party, westward-bound pioneers—about 90; historians debate the exact number—who became trapped in the Sierra in the winter of 1846–47 in snow 22 feet deep. Barely more than half the pioneers survived, some by resorting to cannibalism. In the park, you can picnic, hike, camp, and go boating, fishing, and waterskiing in summer; winter brings cross-country skiing and snowshoeing on groomed trails. A new visitor’s center and museum contains exhibits about the Donner Party’s plight, regional Native Americans, and railroad and transportation development through Donner Pass and the Sierra. | 12593 Donner Pass Rd., off I–80, 2 miles west of Truckee | 530/582–7892 museum, 800/444–7275 camping reservations | www.parks.ca.gov | $8 parking, day use | Museum daily 10–5.

Off the Beaten Path: Tahoe National Forest.
Draped along the Sierra Nevada Crest north of Lake Tahoe, the national forest offers abundant outdoor recreation: hiking, picnicking, and camping in summer, and snowshoeing, skiing, and sledding over some of the deepest snowpack in the West in winter. | Truckee ranger station,10811 Stockrest Springs Rd. | 530/587–3558 Truckee ranger station, 530/265–4531 forest headquarters | www.fs.usda.gov/tahoe.

Where to Eat

Fodor’s Choice | Cottonwood Restaurant & Bar.
$$$ | ECLECTIC | Perched above town on the site of North America’s first chairlift, this restaurant is an institution. The bar is decked out with old wooden skis, sleds, skates, and photos of Truckee’s early days. The ambitious menu includes such dishes as grilled steak, baby-back short ribs with Cajun spices, and butternut-squash enchiladas with Ancho chile mole—plus fresh-baked breads and desserts. But people come here mainly for the atmosphere and hilltop views. | Average main: $25 | 10142 Rue Hilltop Rd., off Brockway Rd., ¼ mile south of downtown | 530/587–5711 | www.cottonwoodrestaurant.com | No lunch.

FiftyFifty Brewing Company.
$$ | AMERICAN | In this Truckee brewpub warm red tones and comfy booths, plus a pint of the Donner Party porter, will take the nip out of a cold day on the slopes. The menu includes salads, burgers, and the house specialty, a pulled-pork sandwich, plus barbecued ribs and pan-seared salmon. Their inventive pizzas are popular anytime. There’s a full bar along with the brews, and lots of après-ski action. | Average main: $21 | 11197 Brockway Rd. | 530/587–2337 | www.fiftyfiftybrewing.com.

Moody’s Bistro, Bar & Beats.
$$$ | ECLECTIC | Head here for contemporary-Cal cuisine in a sexy dining room with pumpkin-color walls, burgundy velvet banquettes, and art-deco fixtures. The earthy, sure-handed cooking features organically grown ingredients: look for ahi poke, snazzy pizzas bubbling-hot from a brick oven, braised lamb shanks, pan-roasted wild game, fresh seafood, and organic beef. Lunch fare is lighter. In summer dine alfresco surrounded by flowers. From Thursday through Saturday there’s music in the borderline-raucous bar that gets packed with Truckee’s bon vivants. | Average main: $25 | 10007 Bridge St., at Donner Pass Rd. | 530/587–8688 | www.moodysbistro.com.

Truckee Tavern & Grill.
$$$ | AMERICAN | The wood-fired grill in this downtown Truckee restaurant turns out steaks, chicken, and chops along with buffalo tri-tip and other house specialties. Non-carnivores enjoy pasta and fish entrées. The full bar features inventive cocktails plus, in tribute to Truckee’s bootlegging past during prohibition, artisanal small-batch gin and whiskey. | Average main: $26 | 10118 Donner Pass Rd., near Spring St. | 530/587–3766 | www.truckeetavern.com | No lunch.

Where to Stay

Cedar House Sport Hotel.
$$$ | HOTEL | The clean, spare lines of the Cedar House’s wooden exterior evoke a modern European feel, while energy-saving heating, cooling, and lighting systems emphasize the owners’ commitment to sustainability. Rooms in the three two-story satellite buildings are understatedly sexy, with Merlot-and-camel color schemes and mod-Italian overtones (think chrome and leather). Not all rooms have tubs, but heated-tile bathroom floors, goose-down duvets, and comfy cotton robes are luxurious extras. The restaurant, Stella, is open from Wednesday through Sunday. Ask about outdoor-sports trips when you book. Pets are welcome in some rooms for a fee. Pros: environmentally friendly; comfortable; hip. Cons: some bathrooms on the small side. | Rooms from: $190 | 10918 Brockway Rd. | 530/582–5655, 866/582–5655 | www.cedarhousesporthotel.com | 40 rooms | Breakfast.

Northstar California Resort.
$$$ | RESORT | The area’s most complete destination resort entices families with its sports activities and concentration of restaurants, shops, and accommodations. Lodgings range from hotel rooms to condos to private houses, some with ski-in, ski-out access. Lodging options often include ice-skating passes, on-site shuttle transportation, and access to the Swim and Racquet Club’s pools, outdoor hot tubs, and fitness center. Golfing, tennis, skiing, and snowshoeing are also available. TC’s Pub ($$) in the Village serves contemporary American fare. Pros: array of lodging types; on-site shuttle; several dining options in Northstar Village. Cons: family accommodations are very pricey. | Rooms from: $249 | 100 Northstar Dr., off Hwy. 267, 6 miles southeast of Truckee | 530/562–1010, 800/466–6784 | www.northstarcalifornia.com | 250 units | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Ritz-Carlton Highlands Court, Lake Tahoe.
$$$$ | RESORT | Nestled mid-mountain on the Northstar ski resort, the plush accommodations of the Ritz-Carlton have floor-to-ceiling windows for maximum views, along with fireplaces, cozy robes, and down comforters. Want inimitable pampering? Splurge on a concierge Club Level room on the top floor of the four-story hotel. No matter which room you book, you’ll enjoy access to the spa, fitness center, and heated outdoor swimming pools. Guests can ski-in, ski-out or take a gondola to Northstar. In addition to 24-hour room service, dining options include a casual café lounge, the Backyard Bar and BBQ for outdoor ski-in, ski-out or poolside dining, and the signature upscale Manzanita Restaurant ($$$–$$$$); and, of course, the many restaurants and shops at Northstar Village. Pros: superb service; gorgeous setting. Cons: prices as breathtaking as the views; must go off-site for golf and tennis. | Rooms from: $469 | 13031 Ritz-Carlton Highlands Court | 530/562–3000, 800/241–3333 | www.ritzcarlton.com/laketahoe | 153 rooms, 17 suites | No meals.

River Street Inn.
$$ | B&B/INN | On the banks of the Truckee River, this 1885 wood-and-stone inn has uncluttered, comfortable rooms that are simply decorated, with attractive, country-style wooden furniture and extras like flat-screen TVs. The cushy beds have top-quality mattresses, down comforters, and high-thread-count sheets. Bathrooms have claw-foot tubs. The affable off-site proprietors are there when you need them. The back entrance to the property leads to the 1882 Bar and Grill ($) for riverfront dining at lunch or dinner. Pros: tidy rooms; good value. Cons: parking is a half-block from inn. | Rooms from: $145 | 10009 E. River St. | 530/550–9290, 530/550–9222 restaurant | www.riverstreetinntruckee.com | 11 rooms | Breakfast.

Sports and the Outdoors

Golf

Coyote Moon Golf Course.
With towering pine trees lining the fairways and no houses to spoil the view, this course is as beautiful as it is challenging. Fees include a shared cart; the green fee drops at 1 pm and dips again at 3. | 10685 Northwoods Blvd., off Donner Pass Rd. | 530/587–0886 | www.coyotemoongolf.com | $160 | 18 holes, 7177 yards, par 72 | Closed late fall–late spring.

Northstar.
The front nine holes here are open-links style, while the challenging back nine move through tight, tree-lined fairways. Fees include a shared cart. Twilight rates begin at 2 pm. You can play nine holes for $50; special teen rates encourage family outings. The restaurant serves breakfast and lunch only. | 168 Basque Dr., off Northstar Dr., west off Hwy. 267 | 530/562–3290 pro-shop | www.northstarcalifornia.com/info/summer/golf.asp | $85 | 18 holes, 6781 yards, par 72.

Old Greenwood.
Beautiful mountain and forest views add to the pleasure of a round played at north Lake Tahoe’s only Jack Nicklaus Signature Golf Course. The regular fees are high, but there’s a $75 twilight rate beginning at 4 pm. | 12915 Fairway Dr., off Overland Trail Rd., off I–80, Exit 190 | 530/550–7010 | www.golfintahoe.com/old_greenwood | $200 | 18 holes, 7518 yards, par 72.

Mountain Biking

Cyclepaths Mountain Bike Adventures.
This combination full-service bike shop and bike-adventure outfitter offers instruction in mountain biking, guided tours, tips for self-guided bike touring, bike repairs, and books and maps on the area. | 10095 W. River St., by Bridge St. | 530/582–1890 | www.cyclepaths.net.

Northstar California.
In summer you can rent a bike and ride the lifts ($50, ages 13 and up) to the mountain-biking park for 100 miles of challenging terrain. The season extends from mid-June through September with varying hours. | Northstar Dr., off Hwy. 267 | 530/562–1010 | www.northstarcalifornia.com/bike-and-hike/mtn-biking-rentals.aspx.

Skiing

Several smaller resorts around Truckee offer access to the Sierra’s slopes for less than half the price of the big resorts. Though you’ll sacrifice vertical rise, acreage, and high-speed lifts, you can ski or ride and still have money left over for room and board. These are great places for first-timers and families with kids learning to ski.

Boreal Mountain Resort.
These slopes have 380 skiable acres and 500 vertical feet of terrain visible from the freeway. Lift-served snow-tubing and night skiing go until 9. | 19749 Boreal Ridge Rd., at I–80, Boreal/Castle Peak exit | Soda Springs | 530/426–3666 | www.rideboreal.com.

Donner Ski Ranch.
This ski park has 505 acres and 750 vertical feet. A popular area with kids in this small, family-friendly park is the Tubing Hill. Riders whisk down the slope in a huge inflated inner tube and then go back to the top on a moving carpet. | 19320 Donner Pass Rd. | Norden | 530/426–3635 | www.donnerskiranch.com.

Fodor’s Choice | Northstar California.
With two tree-lined, northeast-facing, wind-protected bowls, this park is the ideal place in a storm, and just may be the best all-around family ski resort at Tahoe. Hotshot experts unfairly call the mountain “Flatstar,” but the meticulous grooming and long cruisers make it an intermediate skier’s paradise. Boarders are especially welcome, with awesome terrain parks, including a 420-foot-long super-pipe, a half-pipe, rails and boxes, and lots of kickers. Experts can ski the steeps and bumps off Lookout Mountain, where there’s rarely a line for the high-speed quad. Northstar’s cross-country center has 35 km (22 miles) of groomed trails, including double-set tracks and skating lanes. The school has programs for skiers ages three and up, and day care is available for tots two and older. The mountain gets packed on busy weekends, but when there’s room on the slopes, Northstar is loads of fun. | 5001 Northstar Dr. | 530/562–1010 information, 800/466–6784 lodging, 530/562–1330 snow phone | www.northstarcalifornia.com | 97 trails on 3,170 acres, rated 13% beginner, 60% intermediate, 27% advanced. Longest run 1.4 miles, base 6,330 feet, summit 8,610 feet. Lifts: 20, including 2 gondolas and 7 high-speed quads.

Royal Gorge.
If you love to cross-country, don’t miss Royal Gorge, which serves up 200 km (124 miles) of track for all abilities, 75 trails on a whopping 6,000 acres, a ski school, and eight warming huts. Two trailside cafés and a lodge round out the facilities. Because the complex sits right on the Sierra Crest, the views are drop-dead gorgeous. | 9411 Pahatsi Dr., off I–80, Soda Springs/Norden exit | Soda Springs | 530/426–3871, 800/500–3871 | www.royalgorge.com.

Soda Springs.
Along with 200 acres and 500 vertical feet, this ski park also has lift-served snow-tubing. | 10244 Soda Springs Rd., I–80 Soda Springs exit | Soda Springs | 530/426–3901 | www.skisodasprings.com.

Fodor’s Choice | Sugar Bowl Ski Resort.
Opened in 1939 by Walt Disney, this is the oldest—and one of the best—resorts at Tahoe. Atop Donner Summit, it receives an incredible 500 inches of snowfall annually. Four peaks are connected by 1,650 acres of skiable terrain, with everything from gentle groomed corduroy to wide-open bowls to vertical rocky chutes and outstanding tree skiing. Snowboarders can hit two terrain parks with numerous boxes, rails, and jumps. Because it’s more compact than some of the area’s megaresorts, there’s a gentility here that distinguishes Sugar Bowl from its competitors, making this a great place for families and a low-pressure, low-key place to learn to ski. It’s not huge, but there’s some very challenging terrain (experts: head to the Palisades). There’s limited lodging at the base area. | 629 Sugar Bowl Rd., off Donner Pass Rd., 3 miles east of I–80 Soda Springs/Norden exit, 10 miles west of Truckee | Norden | 530/426–9000 information and lodging reservations, 530/426–1111 snow phone, 866/843–2695 lodging referral | www.sugarbowl.com | 102 trails on 1,650 acres, rated 17% beginner, 45% intermediate, 38% advanced. Longest run 3 miles, base 6,883 feet, summit 8,383 feet. Lifts: 13, including 5 high-speed quads.

Tahoe Dave’s.
You can save money by renting skis and boards at this shop, which has the area’s best selection and also repairs and tunes equipment. | 10200 Donner Pass Rd., near Spring St. | 530/582–0900 | www.tahoedaves.com.

Tahoe Donner.
Just north of Truckee, this park covers 120 acres and 600 vertical feet; the cross-country center includes 51 trails on 100 km (62 miles) of groomed tracks on 4,800 acres, with night skiing on Wednesday in January and February. | 11603 Snowpeak Way | 530/587–9444 | www.tahoedonner.com.

Carnelian Bay to Kings Beach

5–10 miles northeast of Tahoe City.

The small lakeside commercial districts of Carnelian Bay and Tahoe Vista service the thousand or so locals who live in the area year-round and the thousands more who have summer residences or launch their boats here. Kings Beach, the last town heading east on Highway 28 before the Nevada border, is to Crystal Bay what South Lake Tahoe is to Stateline: a bustling town full of basic motels and rental condos, restaurants, and shops, used by the hordes of hopefuls who pass through on their way to the casinos.

Getting Here and Around

To reach Kings Beach and Carnelian Bay from the California side, take Highway 89 north to Highway 28 north and then east. From the Nevada side, follow Highway 28 north and then west. TART provides public transportation in this area.

Beaches

FAMILY | Kings Beach State Recreation Area.
The north shore’s 28-acre Kings Beach State Recreation Area, one of the largest such areas on the lake, is open year-round. The 700-foot-long sandy beach gets crowded in summer with people swimming, sunbathing, Jet Skiing, riding in paddleboats, spiking volleyballs, and tossing Frisbees. If you’re going to spend the day, come early enough to snag a table in the picnic area; there’s also a good playground. Amenities: food and drink; parking (fee); toilets; water sports. Best For: sunrise; sunset; swimming; windsurfing. | 8318 N. Lake Blvd., Hwy. 28 | Kings Beach | 530/546–7248 | www.parks.ca.gov | $10 parking fee.

Where to Eat and Stay

Gar Woods Grill and Pier.
$$$ | ECLECTIC | The view’s the thing at this lakeside stalwart, where you can watch the sun shimmer on the water through the dining room’s plate-glass windows or from the heated outdoor deck. Grilled steak and fish are menu mainstays, but be sure to try specialties like crab chiles rellenos and chipotle chicken salad. At all hours in season, the bar gets packed with boaters who pull up to the restaurant’s private pier. | Average main: $29 | 5000 N. Lake Blvd., Hwy. 28 | Carnelian Bay | 530/546–3366 | www.garwoods.com.

Jason’s Beachside Grille.
$$ | AMERICAN | If the kids want burgers but you want bourbon, Jason’s has a full bar as well as steaks, 16 different kinds of burgers, tasty teriyaki chicken, and a big salad bar. The whole place is wood, from floor to ceiling, giving it a cozy feel. Expect to wait for a table by the fireplace; you can’t reserve unless there are more than seven in your group. In summer, dine outside on a deck overlooking the lake. | Average main: $18 | 8338 N. Lake Blvd., Hwy. 28 | Kings Beach | 530/546–3315 | jasonsbeachsidegrille.com | Reservations not accepted.

Lanza’s.
$$ | ITALIAN | Expect good old-fashioned Italian-American food on red-and-white-checked tablecloths at this local favorite. There’s lasagna, manicotti, veal piccata, and eggplant Parmesan, but you can also order your own pasta-and-sauce combination. Leave room for the spumoni. Lanza’s isn’t fancy, but when you’re craving spaghetti and meatballs, this is the place to go. | Average main: $18 | 7739 N. Lake Blvd., next to Safeway | Kings Beach | 530/546–2434 | www.lanzastahoe.com | Reservations not accepted | No lunch.

Spindleshanks American Bistro and Wine Bar.
$$$ | AMERICAN | Relocated to the Old Brockway Golf Course, this local favorite serves mostly classic American cooking—ribs, steaks, and seafood updated with adventurous sauces—as well as house-made ravioli. Savor a drink from the full bar or choose a wine from the extensive list while you enjoy views of Lake Tahoe or the historic green where Bing Crosby hosted his first golf tournament in 1934. When the weather’s balmy, dine on the patio. | Average main: $23 | 400 Brassie Ave., at Hwy. 267 & N. Lake Tahoe Blvd. | Kings Beach | 530/546–2191 | www.spindleshankstahoe.com.

FAMILY | Ferrari’s Crown Resort.
$ | HOTEL | Great for families with kids, the family-owned and -operated Ferrari’s has straightforward motel rooms in a resort setting. Comprised of two formerly separate vintage-1950s motels, sitting side-by-side on the lake, Ferrari’s is impeccably kept. It’s not fancy by any stretch, just a plain-old motel, but some of the rooms have awesome views, and for value you can’t beat it. Kids love the two seasonal pools; adults enjoy the hot tubs. There are also kayak rentals on-site, plus free Wi-Fi throughout the property. A few rooms are value-priced; check for the lowest rates when you book. Pros: family-friendly; lakeside location. Cons: older facility. | Rooms from: $105 | 8200 N. Lake Blvd. | Kings Beach | 530/546–3388, 800/645–2260 | www.tahoecrown.com | 72 rooms | Breakfast.

FAMILY | Rustic Cottages.
$ | HOTEL | These charming clapboard cottages sit clustered beneath tall pine trees across the road from Lake Tahoe and a little beach. Cozy, simple, and well cared for, they offer an inexpensive alternative to a motel. Most have patios, and some have fireplaces and kitchens. If the cottages are booked, ask about the well-run sister property, Tahoe Vista Lodge and Cabins, just up the road. The service at both is attentive. Pros: woodsy Old Tahoe feel; comfy; good value. Cons: older facility; some rooms are very small. | Rooms from: $109 | 7449 N. Lake Blvd. | Tahoe Vista | 530/546–3523, 888/778–7842 | www.rusticcottages.com | 20 cottages | Breakfast.

Sports and the Outdoors

Snowmobiling

Lake Tahoe Snowmobile Tours.
This company conducts two-, three-, and four-hour group and private guided cross-country tours, mostly along the trails in nearby Tahoe National Forest. You can rent suits, gloves, boots, and mandatory helmets but you should bring your own goggles or sunglasses. | Hwy. 267, 3 miles north of Hwy. 28,at Brockway Summit | Kings Beach | 530/546–4280 | www.laketahoesnowmobiling.com | From $150.

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