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Crystal Bay | Incline Village | Zephyr Cove | Stateline | Reno
The difference on the Nevada side of the lake is, of course, gambling, with all its repercussions.
Crystal Bay
1 mile east of Kings Beach, 30 miles north of South Lake Tahoe.
Right at the Nevada border, Crystal Bay features a cluster of casinos, a few spunky ones with personality and some smaller ones that locals tend to favor. There’s not much lodging; the largest property, the Cal-Neva Resort, Spa and Casino that Frank Sinatra owned, is, as of this writing, undergoing a multimillion-dollar remodel. Look for it to reopen with great hoopla in 2016. For now, one of Tahoe’s best restaurants, Soule Domain, is reason enough for a stop in Crystal Bay.
Getting Here and Around
From the California side, reach Crystal Bay via Highway 89 or 267 to Highway 28. TART serves the communities along the north and west shores.
Where to Eat
Soule Domain.
$$$ | ECLECTIC | Rough-hewn wood beams, a vaulted wood ceiling, and, in winter, a roaring fireplace lend high romance to this cozy 1927 pine-log cabin next to the Tahoe Biltmore. Chef-owner Charlie Soule’s specialties include curried almond chicken, fresh sea scallops poached in champagne with a kiwi and mango cream sauce, and a vegan sauté with ginger, jalapeños, and tofu. If you’re looking for a place with a sterling menu where you can hold hands by candlelight, this is it. | Average main: $27 | 9983 Cove St., ½ block up Stateline Rd. off Hwy. 28 | Kings Beach | 530/546–7529 | www.souledomain.com | No lunch.
Nightlife
Casinos
Crystal Bay Club.
Known for its classic steak and lobster dinner, the restaurant in this casino has a distinctive open-truss ceiling. With entertainment in two venues, and accommodations in its historic 10-room Border House ($$$) next to the club, this refurbished casino tempts tourists to linger on Tahoe’s north shore. | 14 Hwy. 28, near Stateline Rd. | 775/833–6333 | www.crystalbaycasino.com.
Jim Kelley’s Tahoe Nugget.
Nearly 90 kinds of beer highlight the bar scene at Jim Kelley’s Tahoe Nugget. In fact, they’re the highlight of this small casino, which has no table games, only slots and video poker. | 20 Hwy. 28, near Stateline Rd. | 775/831–0455.
Tahoe Biltmore.
A daily happy hour keeps this old favorite hopping, along with dinner specials in Bilty’s Brew & Q restaurant, and inexpensive breakfasts in their café. Expect simple accommodations ($-$$) in the casino’s hotel. The circular Tahoe Biltmore sign is a 1962 “Googie-style” architectural riff off the Seattle Space Needle, which debuted the same year. | 5 Hwy. 28, at Stateline Rd. | 800/245–8667, 775/831–0660 | www.tahoebiltmore.com.
Incline Village
3 miles east of Crystal Bay.
Incline Village dates to the early 1960s, when an Oklahoma developer bought 10,000 acres north of Lake Tahoe. His idea was to sketch out a plan for a town without a central commercial district, hoping to prevent congestion and to preserve the area’s natural beauty. One-acre lakeshore lots originally fetched $12,000 to $15,000; today you couldn’t buy the same land for less than several million.
Getting Here and Around
From the California side, reach Incline Village via Highway 89 or 267 to Highway 28. From South Lake Tahoe, take U.S. 50 north to Highway 28 north. TART serves the communities along Lake Tahoe’s north and west shores from Incline Village to Tahoma.
Essentials
Visitor Information
Lake Tahoe Incline Village/Crystal Bay Visitors Bureau. | 969 Tahoe Blvd. | 775/832–1606, 800/468–2463 | www.gotahoenorth.com.
Exploring
Lakeshore Drive.
Take this beautiful drive to see some of the most expensive real estate in Nevada. The route is discreetly marked: to find it, start at the Hyatt hotel and drive westward along the lake.
Fodor’s Choice | Thunderbird Lodge.
George Whittell, a San Francisco socialite who once owned 40,000 acres of property along the lake, built this lodge in 1936. You can tour the mansion and the grounds by reservation only, and though it’s pricey to do so, you’ll be rewarded with a rare glimpse of a time when only the very wealthy had homes at Tahoe. The lodge is accessible via a bus from the Incline Village Visitors Bureau, a catamaran from the Hyatt in Incline Village ($120), or a 1950 wooden cruiser from Tahoe Keys Marina in South Lake Tahoe, which includes continental breakfast and lunch ($139). | 5000 Nevada 28 | 775/832–8752 lodge info, 800/468–2463 tour reservations, 775/588–1881, 888/867–6394 Tahoe Keys boat, 775/831–4386 Hyatt Incline catamaran | www.thunderbirdtahoe.org/tours | $39 bus tour, $120 and $139 for boat tours | May–Oct., Tues.–Sat., call for tour times.
Beaches
Lake Tahoe–Nevada State Park and Sand Harbor Beach.
Protecting much of the lake’s eastern shore from development, this park comprises several sections that stretch from Incline Village to Zephyr Cove. Beaches and trails provide access to a wilder side of the lake, whether you’re into cross-country skiing, hiking, or just relaxing at a picnic. With a gently sloping beach for lounging, crystal-clear water for swimming and snorkeling, and a picnic area shaded by cedars and pines, Sand Harbor Beach is so popular that it sometimes fills to capacity by 11 am on summer weekends. Boaters have two launch ramps. A handicap-accessible nature trail has interpretive signs and beautiful lake views. Pets are not allowed. Amenities: food and drink; parking (fee)); toilets; water sports. Best For: snorkeling; sunset; swimming; walking. | Sand Harbor Beach, Hwy. 28, 3 miles south of Incline Village | 775/831–0494 | Parking $12 mid-Apr.–mid-Oct., $7 rest of the year | parks.nv.gov/parks/sand-harbor.
Where to Eat and Stay
Azzara’s.
$$ | ITALIAN | This Italian family restaurant with a light, inviting dining room serves a dozen pasta dishes and many pizzas, as well as chicken, veal, shrimp, and beef. Prices initially seem high—hovering around $22—but once you factor in soup or salad and garlic bread, it’s a pretty good value. Don’t miss the tiramisu. | Average main: $22 | Raley’s Shopping Center,930 Tahoe Blvd., near Village Blvd. | 775/831–0346 | www.azzaras.com | Closed Mon. No lunch.
Fredrick’s Fusion Bistro.
$$$ | ECLECTIC | Copper-top tables lend a chic look to the dining room at this intimate bistro. The menu consists of a mélange of European and Asian dishes, most of them prepared with organic produce and free-range meats. Try the braised short ribs, roasted duck with caramel-pecan glaze, or the deliciously fresh sushi rolls. TIP On cold nights ask for a table by the fire. | Average main: $24 | 907 Tahoe Blvd., at Village Blvd. | 775/832–3007 | fredricksbistro.com | Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.
Fodor’s Choice | Le Bistro.
$$$ | FRENCH | Incline Village’s hidden gem serves expertly prepared French-country cuisine in a relaxed, romantic dining room. The chef-owner makes everything himself, using organically grown ingredients. Expect such dishes as pâté de campagne, escargots, herb-crusted roast lamb, and fresh fish. Try the five-course prix-fixe menu ($55), which can be paired with award-winning wines. Service is gracious and attentive. TIP This restaurant is hard to find, so ask for directions when you book. | Average main: $30 | 120 Country Club Dr., #29, off Lakeshore Blvd. | 775/831–0800 | www.lebistrorestaurant.net | Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.
T’s Mesquite Rotisserie.
$ | SOUTHERN | There’s nothing fancy about T’s (it looks like a small snack bar), but the mesquite-grilled chicken and tri-tip steaks are delicious and inexpensive—a rare combination in pricey Incline Village. It’s mainly a take-out spot; seating is limited. | Average main: $9 | 901 Tahoe Blvd., at Village Blvd. | 775/831–2832 | No credit cards.
Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe.
$$$$ | RESORT | A full-service destination resort on 26 acres of prime lakefront property, the Hyatt has a range of luxurious accommodations, from tower-hotel rooms to lakeside cottages. The Lone Eagle Grille ($$$–$$$$) serves steaks and seafood—lighter fare at lunch—in one of the north shore’s most handsome lake-view dining rooms. There’s also a state-of-the-art spa and fitness center. Standard rates soar in high season, but check online for reduced rates during the thin-crowd seasons. Pets are allowed in a few rooms for a fee. Pros: incredible views; low-key casino. Cons: pricey (especially for families). | Rooms from: $379 | 111 Country Club Dr. | 775/832–1234, 888/899–5019 | www.laketahoe.hyatt.com | 386 rooms, 36 suites | No meals.
Performing Arts
Lake Tahoe Shakespeare Festival.
The festival is held outdoors at Sand Harbor, with the lake as a stunning backdrop, from mid-July through August. | Hwy. 28, 3 miles south of Incline Village | 775/832–1616, 800/747–4697 | www.laketahoeshakespeare.com.
Sports and the Outdoors
Tahoe’s Ski-Patrol Dogs
All around Tahoe, from bars to ski shops, you’ll spot posters of dogs wearing ski-patrol vests riding a chairlift. Stars in their own right, these pooches are the search-and-rescue dogs of Alpine Meadows and Squaw Valley ski resorts.
In 1982 an avalanche inundated Alpine’s base lodge, destroying a building and a ski lift and killing six people. Search-and-rescue teams brought in a German shepherd named Bridget to help recover the missing from beneath the snow. Though she was unable to help save any victims, she inspired the idea for trained “staff dogs” to be on hand in case of another catastrophe.
Now an integral part of the two resorts’ safety preparedness, these golden retrievers and chocolate Labradors are the personal pets of ski-patrol employees. Each dog meets exacting standards of obedience and conduct and must undergo two years of rigorous training. They must be able to get on and off a ski lift, ride on a snowmobile, and keep up with patrollers anywhere on the mountain, including icy cornices, craggy chutes, and steep slopes. Goldens and labs have the right temperament, the right size, and the right fur—long enough to keep them warm but short enough not to get covered in chunky snowballs that weigh them down. They’re also able to smell human beings through heavy snow.
Currently, the two resorts have 12 dogs on staff. They’re big and playful, and love romping in the snow, but their rigorous training prepares them to bound into life-saving action the minute they’re needed. If you ever share a ski lift with one of these courageous canines, consider asking for a paw-print autograph from a genuine Tahoe superstar.
Golf
Incline Championship.
Robert Trent Jones Sr. designed this challenging course of tightly cut, tree-lined fairways laced with water hazards that demand accuracy as well as distance skills. Green fee includes a cart, except the 4:30 pm Super Twilight rate of $3 per hole (cart $25). | 955 Fairway Blvd., at Northwood Blvd., north off Hwy. 28 | 866/925–4653 reservations, 775/832–1146 pro shop | www.yourtahoeplace.com/golf-incline | $179 | 18 holes, 7106 yards, par 72.
Incline Mountain.
Robert Trent Jones Jr. designed this executive (shorter) course that requires accuracy more than distance skills. The green fee includes a cart. | 690 Wilson Way, at Golfer’s Pass, south off Hwy. 431 | 866/925–4653 reservations, 775/832–1150 pro shop | www.yourtahoeplace.com/golf-incline | $70 | 18 holes, 3527 yards, par 58.
Mountain Biking
Flume Trail Bikes.
You can rent bikes and get helpful tips from this company, which also operates a bike shuttle to popular trailheads. Ask about the secluded backcountry rental cabins for overnight rides. | 1115 Tunnel Creek Rd., at Ponderosa Ranch Rd., off Hwy. 28 | 775/298–2501 | www.flumetrailtahoe.com.
Skiing
Diamond Peak.
A fun family mood prevails at Diamond Peak, which has affordable rates and many special programs. Snowmaking covers 75% of the mountain, and runs are groomed nightly. The ride up the 1-mile Crystal Express rewards you with fantastic views. Diamond Peak is less crowded than Tahoe’s larger ski parks and provides free shuttles to nearby lodgings. A great place for beginners and intermediates, it’s appropriately priced for families. Though there are some steep-aspect black-diamond runs, advanced skiers may find the acreage too limited. For snowboarders there’s a small terrain park. | 1210 Ski Way, off Country Club Dr. | 775/832–1177 | www.diamondpeak.com | 30 trails on 655 acres, rated 18% beginner, 46% intermediate, 36% advanced. Longest run 2½ miles, base 6,700 feet, summit 8,540 feet. Lifts: 7, including 1 high-speed quad and a surface lift.
Mt. Rose Ski Tahoe.
At this park, ski some of Tahoe’s highest slopes and take in bird’s-eye views of Reno, the lake, and Carson Valley. Though more compact than the bigger Tahoe resorts, Mt. Rose has the area’s highest base elevation and consequently the driest snow. The mountain has a wide variety of terrain. The most challenging is the Chutes, 200 acres of gulp-and-go advanced-to-expert vertical. Intermediates can choose steep groomers or mellow, wide-open boulevards. Beginners have their own corner of the mountain, with gentle, wide slopes. Boarders and tricksters have three terrain parks to choose from, on opposite sides of the mountain, allowing them to follow the sun as it tracks across the resort. The mountain gets hit hard in storms; check conditions before heading up during inclement weather or on a windy day. | 22222 Mt. Rose Hwy., Hwy. 431, 11 miles north of Incline Village, Reno | 775/849–0704, 800/754–7673 | www.skirose.com | 61 trails on 1,200 acres, rated 20% beginner, 30% intermediate, 40% advanced, 10% expert. Longest run 2½ miles, base 8,260 feet, summit 9,700 feet. Lifts: 8, including 2 high-speed 6-passenger lifts.
Tahoe Meadows Snowplay Area.
This is the most popular area near the north shore for noncommercial cross-country skiing, sledding, tubing, snowshoeing, and snowmobiling. | Off Hwy. 431, between Incline Village and Mt. Rose.
Zephyr Cove
22 miles south of Incline Village.
The largest settlement between Incline Village and the Stateline area is Zephyr Cove, a tiny resort. It has a beach, marina, campground, picnic area, coffee shop in a log lodge, rustic cabins, and nearby riding stables.
Getting Here and Around
From the north shore communities, reach Zephyr Cove by following Highway 28 along the eastern side of the lake. From South Lake Tahoe, take U.S. 50 north and then west. Public transportation isn’t available in Zephyr Cove.
Exploring
Cave Rock.
Near Zephyr Cove, this 75 feet of solid stone at the southern end of Lake Tahoe–Nevada State Park is the throat of an extinct volcano. Tahoe Tessie, the lake’s version of the Loch Ness monster, is reputed to live in a cavern below the impressive outcropping. Cave Rock towers over a parking lot, a lakefront picnic ground, and a boat launch. The views are some of the best on the lake; this is a good spot to stop and take a picture. However, this area is a sacred burial site for the Washoe Indians, and climbing up to the cave, or through it, is prohibited. | U.S. 50, 4 miles north of Zephyr Cove | 775/831–0494 | www.parks.nv.gov/parks/cave-lake-state-park/cave%20rock | $10 day use fee.
Where to Stay
Coyote Grill.
$ | MEXICAN | A full bar and a row of tables are jammed into this tiny shopping-center eatery where the menu includes sandwiches, burgers, quesadillas, and fajitas. The fish tacos, made with fresh halibut or ahi, sautéed cabbage, and chipotle aioli, are delicious. | Average main: $12 | Round Hill Shopping Center, off U.S. 50,212 Elks Point Rd., #101 | 775/586–1822.
FAMILY | Zephyr Cove Resort.
$$$ | RENTAL | Beneath towering pines at the lake’s edge stand 28 cozy, modern vacation cabins with peaked knotty-pine ceilings. Although not fancy, they come in a variety of sizes, some perfect for families. Across U.S. 50, a sprawling year-round campground is geared toward RVers, but with drive-in and walk-in tent sites, too. The resort has horseback riding, snowmobiling facilities, and a marina with boat, WaveRunner, kayak, and other water-sports rentals, all of which contribute to the summer-camp atmosphere. Pets are allowed for a fee. Pros: family-friendly. Cons: lodge rooms are basic; can be noisy. | Rooms from: $200 | 760 U.S. 50, 4 miles north of Stateline | 775/589–4906, 800/238–2463 | www.zephyrcove.com | 28 cabins; 4 lodge rooms | No meals.
Stateline
5 miles south of Zephyr Cove.
Stateline is the archetypal Nevada border town. Its four high-rise casinos are as vertical and contained as the commercial district of South Lake Tahoe, on the California side, is horizontal and sprawling. And Stateline is as relentlessly indoors-oriented as the rest of the lake is focused on the outdoors. This strip is where you’ll find the most concentrated action at Lake Tahoe: restaurants (including typical casino buffets), showrooms with famous headliners and razzle-dazzle revues, tower-hotel rooms and suites, and 24-hour casinos.
Getting Here and Around
From South Lake Tahoe take U.S. 50 north across the Nevada border to reach Stateline and its casinos. If coming from Reno’s airport, take U.S. 395/Interstate 580 south to Carson City, and then head west on U.S. 50 to the lake and head south. Or take the South Tahoe Express bus. BlueGO operates daily bus service in the south shore area year-round, plus a ski shuttle from the large hotels to Heavenly in the winter.
Beaches
Nevada Beach.
Although less than a mile long, this is the widest beach on the lake and especially good for swimming (many Tahoe beaches are rocky). You can boat and fish here, and there are picnic tables, barbecue grills, and a campground beneath the pines. This is the best place to watch the July 4th or Labor Day fireworks, but most of the summer the subdued atmosphere attracts families and those seeking a less-touristy spot. Amenities: parking (fee), water sports, toilets. Best For: sunrise, swimming, walking. | Elk Point Rd., off U.S. 50, 3 miles north of Stateline | 530/543–2600, 877/444–6777 camping reservations | Open daily late May–Oct. | Parking $8 | No pets.
Where to Eat and Stay
Mirabelle at Lake Tahoe.
$$$ | FRENCH | Don’t be put off by this restaurant’s nondescript exterior. Inside there’s an airy dining room with creamy yellow walls and white tablecloths. Enticing scents drift from the kitchen, where all menu offerings are housemade. Specialties include sautéed veal sweetbreads, garlicky escargots, and rack of lamb with sauce ravigote. There’s always a fresh fish entrée, plus a $45 prix-fixe three-course menu. | Average main: $28 | 290 Kingsbury Grade, off U.S. 50 | 775/586–1007 | www.mirabelleatlaketahoe.com | Closed Mon. No lunch Oct.–May.
Harrah’s Tahoe Hotel/Casino.
$ | HOTEL | The hotel’s major selling point is that every room has two full bathrooms, a boon if you’re traveling with family. The South Shore Room hosts first-rate entertainment. Among the restaurants, the top-floor Friday’s Station Steak & Seafood Grill ($$$$), with good views from every table, is a standout (but an expensive one); there’s also a buffet on the 18th floor. A tunnel runs under U.S. 50 to Harveys, which Harrah’s now owns. Upper-floor rooms at Harrah’s have views of the lake or mountains. Cheaper rates are available midweek. Pros: central location; great midweek values. Cons: can get noisy. | Rooms from: $109 | 15 U.S. 50, at Stateline Ave. | 775/588–6611, 800/427–7247 | www.caesars.com/harrahs-tahoe | 470 rooms, 62 suites | No meals.
Harveys Resort Hotel/Casino.
$ | HOTEL | This resort began as a cabin in 1944, and now it’s Tahoe’s largest casino-hotel; premium rooms have custom furnishings, oversize marble baths, minibars, and good lake views. Although it was acquired by Harrah’s and has lost some of its cachet, Harveys remains a fine property. At Cabo Wabo ($–$$), an always-hopping Baja-style cantina owned by Sammy Hagar, sip agave-style tequila while munching on tapas and shouting across the table at your date. Harveys Cabaret is the hotel’s showroom. In summer check out the popular outdoor concert series and book early; room rates zoom up when hot acts are playing. Pros: hip entertainment; just a few blocks north of the Heavenly Gondola. Cons: can get loud at night. | Rooms from: $89 | 18 U.S. 50, at Stateline Ave. | 775/588–2411, 800/648–3361 | www.caesars.com/harveys-tahoe | 742 rooms, 36 suites | No meals.
Lakeside Inn and Casino.
$$ | HOTEL | The smallest of the Stateline casinos, the property has good promotional room rates and simple, attractive accommodations in two-story motel-style buildings separate from the casino. Some of the rooms are small and a bit dark; try to get one of the larger, brighter rooms. Some pets are allowed for a fee. Pros: daily dining specials; a favorite with locals. Cons: some rooms are on the small side. | Rooms from: $129 | 168 U.S. 50, at Kingsbury Grade, Box 5640 | 775/588–7777, 800/624–7980 | lakesideinn.com | 122 rooms, 2 suites | No meals.
Nightlife
Each of the major casinos has its own showroom, featuring everything from comedy to magic acts to sexy floor shows to Broadway musicals.
Dance Clubs
Peek.
You can dance the night away with top-notch DJs, and often hear live performances, at this club that emulates a Vegas vibe. | Harrah’s Lake Tahoe,15 U.S. 50 | 775/588–6611 information, 775/586–6705 Peek reservations | www.caesars.com/peek.
Live Music
Harveys Outdoor Summer Concert Series.
Harveys Lake Tahoe books outdoor concerts on weekends in summer with headliners such as the Dave Matthews Band and country music star Kenny Chesney. | 18 U.S. 50 | 775/588–2411 | www.caesars.com/harveys-tahoe/shows.html.
South Shore Room.
Classic acts like the Jefferson Starship, singer-songwriter Leon Russell, and legendary reggae band The Wailers play Harrah’s big showroom, along with tribute shows for groups such as the Rolling Stones and Bruce Springsteen and the E Street Band. | Harrah’s Lake Tahoe,15 U.S. 50 | 775/586–6244 tickets, 775/588–6611 | www.caesars.com/harrahs-tahoe/shows.html.
Sports and the Outdoors
Golf
Edgewood Tahoe.
Golfers of all skill levels enjoy this scenic lakeside course that has four sets of tees, offering a variety of course lengths. The green fee includes an optional cart. | 100 Lake Pkwy., at U.S. 50 | 775/588–3566, 866/761–4653 | www.edgewood-tahoe.com | $220 for weekdays, $240 for weekends | 18 holes, 7543 yards, par 72.
Reno
32 miles east of Truckee, 38 miles northeast of Incline Village.
Established in 1859 as a trading station at a bridge over the Truckee River, Reno grew along with the silver mines of nearby Virginia City and the transcontinental railroad that chugged through town. Train officials named it in 1868, but gambling—legalized in 1931—put Reno on the map. This is still a gambling town, with most of the casinos crowded into five square blocks downtown, but a thriving university scene and outdoor activities also attract tourists.
Parts of downtown are sketchy, but things are changing. Several defunct casinos are being converted into condominiums, and the riverfront is being reconceived. Reno now touts family-friendly activities like kayaking on the Truckee, museums, and a downtown climbing wall. New shops and excellent restaurants have sprung up outside the hotels. With over 300 days of sunshine annually, temperatures year-round in this high-mountain-desert climate are warmer than at Tahoe, though rarely as hot as in Sacramento and the Central Valley, making strolling around town a pleasure.
Getting Here and Around
Interstate 80 bisects Reno east–west, U.S. 395 north–south (south of town the road is signed U.S. 395/Interstate 580). Greyhound and Amtrak stop here, and several airlines fly into Reno-Tahoe International Airport. RTC Ride provides bus service in the greater Reno area.
Essentials
Bus Contact
RTC Ride. | Transit Center, E. 4th and Lake Sts. | 775/348–7433 | www.rtcwashoe.com.
Visitor Information
Reno-Sparks Convention and Visitors Authority. | 4001 S. Virginia St. | 775/827–7650, 800/367–7366 | www.visitrenotahoe.com.
Exploring
Top Attractions
FAMILY | National Automobile Museum.
Antique and classic automobiles, including an Elvis Presley Cadillac, a Mercury coupe driven by James Dean in the movie Rebel Without a Cause, and the experimental and still futuristic-looking 1938 Phantom Corsair, are all on display at this museum. | 10 S. Lake St., at Mill St. | 775/333–9300 | www.automuseum.org | $10 | Mon.–Sat. 9:30–5:30, Sun. 10–4.
Nevada Museum of Art.
A dramatic four-level structure designed by Will Bruder houses this splendid museum’s collection, which focuses on themes such as the Sierra Nevada/Great Basin and altered-landscape photography. The building’s exterior torqued walls are sided with a black zinc-based material that has been fabricated to resemble textures found in the Black Rock Desert. Inside the building, a staircase installed within the central atrium is lit by skylights and suspended by a single beam attached to the atrium ceiling; visitors can climb 55 feet to the fourth floor rooftop landing. | 160 W. Liberty St., and Hill St. | 775/329–3333 | www.nevadaart.org | $10 | Wed. and Fri.–Sun. 10–6, Thurs. 10–8.
Fodor’s Choice | Riverwalk District.
The makeover of Reno’s waterfront has transformed this formerly dilapidated area into the toast of the town. The Riverwalk itself is a half-mile promenade on the north side of the Truckee River, which flows around lovely Wingfield Park, where outdoor festivals and other events take place. On the third Saturday of each month, local merchants host a Wine Walk between 2 and 5. For $20 you receive a wine glass and can sample fine wines at participating shops, bars, restaurants, and galleries. In July, look for stellar outdoor art, opera, dance, and kids’ performances as part of the monthlong Artown festival (renoisartown.com), presented mostly in Wingfield Park. Also at Wingfield is the Truckee River Whitewater Park. With activities for all skill levels, it’s become a major attraction for water-sports enthusiasts. | Riverwalk, north side of Truckee River between Lake and Ralston Sts. | renoriver.org.
Worth Noting
FAMILY | Fleischmann Planetarium.
Digital star shows provide the glittering lights inside this facility. The shows aim to make learning about astronomy entertaining for kids and adults. | University of Nevada,1664 N. Virginia St., near E. 15th St. | 775/784–4811 recorded information, 775/784–4812 office | www.planetarium.unr.nevada.edu | Exhibits free, films and star shows $7 | Mon.–Thurs. noon–7, Fri. noon–9, Sat. 10–9, Sun. 10–7.
Where to Eat
Bangkok Cuisine.
$ | THAI | To eat well but not break the bank, come to this busy Thai restaurant and sample the delicious soups, salads, stir-fries, and curries. | Average main: $12 | 55 Mt. Rose St., at S. Virginia St. | 775/322–0299 | thaifoodreno.com | No lunch Sun.
Fodor’s Choice | Beaujolais Bistro.
$$$ | FRENCH | Across from the Truckee River, this Reno favorite serves earthy, country-style French food with zero pretension. Expect classics like escargots, steak frites with red wine sauce, cassoulet, and crisp sweetbreads with Madeira, along with fish and vegetarian selections. Wood floors, large windows, and brick walls with a fireplace create a welcoming and intimate atmosphere. Diners who want a more casual experience can dine at the long bar. Less expensive small plates as well as an inventive cocktail menu are also offered. | Average main: $29 | 753 Riverside Dr., near Winter St. | 775/323–2227 | www.beaujolaisbistro.com | No lunch. Closed Mon.
Chocolate Bar.
$$ | CAFÉ | Part café, part cocktail bar, this hip little spot close to the river makes truffles, chocolate fondue, fabulous fruity cocktails, hot chocolate, gourmet small plates, and entrées, all served at a long wooden bar or at several tables and leather banquettes. Chocolate Bar is open late each night for those craving dessert, a chocolate cocktail, or a simple, unadorned cognac. | Average main: $16 | 95 N. Sierra St., at W. 1st St. | 775/337–1122 | thechocbar.com.
Fodor’s Choice | 4th St. Bistro.
$$$ | AMERICAN | For deliciously simple, smart cooking, head to this charming little bistro on the edge of town. The chef-owner uses organic produce and meats in her soulful preparation of dishes like grilled cobia wrapped in Serrano ham or Moroccan spiced organic chicken breast with braised rainbow chard and couscous. Ochre-color sponge-painted walls, tablecloths from Provence, and a roaring fireplace in winter warm the dining room. In summer months there’s delightful deck dining. | Average main: $30 | 3065 W. 4th St. | 775/323–3200 | www.4thstbistro.com | Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.
Where to Stay
Eldorado Hotel Casino.
$ | HOTEL | In the middle of glittering downtown, this resort’s huge tower has rooms overlooking either the mountains or the lights of the city. Decorated in neutral tones, the rooms are sedate compared to the splashy decor in some areas of the hotel, like the Fountain of Fortune with its massive Florentine-inspired sculptures. More than the accommodations, guests are drawn to the Eldorado’s many entertainment and dining options. La Strada ($$–$$$; dinner only, closed Wednesday and Thursday) serves great northern Italian cooking in a romantic room; Roxy’s ($$$–$$$$; dinner only) serves wood-oven-roasted and grilled meats and seafood in an over-the-top, faux-European courtyard. Pros: fun; good food; amusingly kitschy decor. Cons: noisy. | Rooms from: $60 | 345 N. Virginia St. | 775/786–5700, 800/879–8879 | www.eldoradoreno.com | 679 rooms, 137 suites | No meals.
Harrah’s Reno.
$ | HOTEL | Of the big-name casino hotels in downtown Reno, double-towered Harrah’s is still the best, with no surprises. The large guest rooms, decorated in browns and pale gold tones, overlook downtown and the entire mountain-ringed valley. The dark and romantic dining room at Harrah’s Steak House ($$$–$$$$; reservations essential, no lunch) serves steaks and seafood that merit a visit by carnivores; try the Caesar salad and steak Diane, both prepared tableside by a tuxedoed waiter. Pros: sets the standard for downtown Reno; great online midweek rates. Cons: huge property. | Rooms from: $70 | 219 N. Center St., at E. 2nd St. | 775/786–3232, 800/427–7247 | www.harrahsreno.com | 876 rooms, 52 suites | No meals.
Peppermill Reno.
$ | HOTEL | A few miles removed from downtown’s flashy main drag, this property sets a new standard for luxury in Reno; its 600 baroque suites in the Tuscan Tower have plush king-size beds, marble bathrooms, and European soaking tubs. The dazzlilng neon-filled casino generates plenty of glitz. The casino’s superior dining options include Oceano ($$–$$$), an over-the-top seafood restaurant that feels like you’re eating inside an aquarium; and Romanza ($$$–$$$$), with elegant china place settings and a planetarium star show. Pros: luxurious rooms; casino decor; good coffee shop. Cons: deluge of neon may be off-putting to some. | Rooms from: $90 | 2707 S. Virginia St., at Peppermill La. | 775/826–2121, 866/821–9996 | www.peppermillreno.com | 915 rooms, 720 suites | No meals.
Nightlife
Casinos
FAMILY | Circus Circus.
Families with kids head to this casino, where a midway above the floor has clowns, games, fun-house mirrors, and circus acts. | 500 N. Sierra St., at W. 5th St. | 775/329–0711, 800/648–5010 | www.circusreno.com.
Eldorado.
Action packed, with lots of slots and popular bar-top video poker, this casino also has good coffee-shop and food-court fare. Don’t miss the Fountain of Fortune with its massive Florentine-inspired sculptures. | 345 N. Virginia St., at W. 4th St. | 775/786–5700, 800/879–8879 | www.eldoradoreno.com.
Harrah’s Reno.
Occupying two city blocks, this landmark property has a sprawling casino and an outdoor promenade. | 219 N. Center St., at E. 2nd St. | 775/786–3232, 800/427–7247 | www.harrahsreno.com.
Peppermill.
A few miles from downtown, this casino is known for its excellent restaurants and neon-bright gambling areas. The Fireside cocktail lounge is a blast. | 2707 S. Virginia St., at Peppermill La. | 775/826–2121, 866/821–9996 | www.peppermillreno.com.
Silver Legacy.
A 120-foot-tall mining rig and video poker games draw gamblers to this razzle-dazzle casino. | 407 N. Virginia St., at W. 4th St. | 775/329–4777, 800/687–8733 | www.silverlegacyreno.com.
Sports and the Outdoors
Tahoe Whitewater Tours.
If you want to kayak or inner-tube the white-water course through downtown or outside town, call this company, which provides guided trips, instruction, and rentals for do-it-yourselfers. | 400 Island Ave. | 775/787–5000 | www.truckeewhitewaterrafting.com | From $68.
Sierra Adventures.
Rent bicycles as well as kayaks from this outfitter, which also conducts guided rafting trips and snow adventures. | 11 N. Sierra St., # 101 | 775/323–8928, 866/323–8928 | www.wildsierra.com | From $59.
Lake Ridge Golf Course.
This course, designed by Robert Trent Jones Sr., takes advantage of views of downtown Reno and the beautiful surrounding mountains. The signature 15th hole is set 140 feet above a lake; the green is on an island below. All rates include a golf cart. The lowest fee is $45 after 2:30 pm every day. | 1218 Golf Club Dr., off Plumas St. | 775/825–2200 | www.lakeridgegolf.com | $75 for weekdays, $85 for weekends | 18 holes, 6715 yards, par 71.