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Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented | What’s Where | Planning

Updated by Christine Vovakes

Whether you swim, fish, sail, or simply rest on its shores, you’ll be wowed by the overwhelming beauty of Lake Tahoe, the largest alpine lake in North America. Famous for its cobalt-blue water and surrounding snowcapped peaks, Lake Tahoe straddles the state line between California and Nevada. The border gives this popular Sierra Nevada resort region a split personality. About half its visitors are intent on low-key sightseeing, hiking, camping, and boating. The rest head directly to the Nevada side, where bargain dining, big-name entertainment, and the lure of a jackpot draw them into the glittering casinos.

To explore the lake area and get a feel for its many differing communities, drive the 72-mile road that follows the shore through wooded flatlands and past beaches, climbing to vistas on the rugged southwest side of the lake and passing through busy commercial developments and casinos on its northeastern and southeastern edges. Another option is to actually go out on the 22-mile-long, 12-mile-wide lake on a sightseeing cruise or kayaking trip.

The lake, the communities around it, the state parks, national forests, and protected tracts of wilderness are the region’s main draws, but other nearby destinations are gaining in popularity. Truckee, with an Old West feel and innovative restaurants, entices visitors looking for a relaxed pace and easy access to Tahoe’s north shore and Olympic Valley ski parks. And today Reno, once known only for its casinos, attracts tourists with its buzzing arts scene, revitalized downtown riverfront, and campus events at the University of Nevada.

Top Reasons to Go

The lake: Blue, deep, and alpine pure, Lake Tahoe is far and away the main reason to visit this High Sierra paradise.

Skiing: Daring black-diamond runs or baby-bunny bumps—whether you’re an expert, a beginner, or somewhere in between, the numerous Tahoe-area ski parks abound with slopes to suit your skills.

The great outdoors: A ring of national forests and recreation areas linked by miles of trails makes Tahoe excellent for nature lovers.

Dinner with a view: You can picnic lakeside at state parks or dine in restaurants perched along the shore.

A date with lady luck: Whether you want to roll dice, play the slots, or hope the blackjack dealer goes bust before you do, you’ll find round-the-clock gambling at the casinos on the Nevada side of the lake and in Reno.

Getting Oriented

In the northern section of the Sierra Nevada mountain range, the Lake Tahoe area covers portions of four national forests, several state parks, and rugged wilderness areas with names like Desolation and Granite Chief. Lake Tahoe, the star attraction, straddles California and Nevada and is one of the world’s largest, clearest, and deepest alpine lakes. The region’s proximity to the Bay Area and Sacramento to the west and Reno to the east draws thrill seekers during ski season and again in summer when water sports, camping, and hiking are the dominant activities.

What’s Where

California Side. With the exception of Stateline, Nevada—which, aside from its casino-hotel towers, seems almost indistinguishable from South Lake Tahoe, California—the California side is more developed than the Nevada side. Here you can find both commercial enterprises—restaurants, motels, lodges, ski resorts, residential subdivisions—and public-access facilities, such as historic sites, parks, campgrounds, marinas, and beaches.

Nevada Side. You don’t need a highway sign to know when you’ve crossed from California into Nevada: the flashing lights and elaborate marquees of casinos announce legal gambling in garish hues. But you’ll find more here than tables and slot machines. Reno, the Biggest Little City in the World, has a vibrant arts scene and a serene downtown RiverWalk. And when you really need to get away from the chip-toting crowds, you can hike through pristine wilderness at Lake Tahoe–Nevada State Park, or hit the slopes near Incline Village.

Planning

When to Go

A sapphire-blue lake shimmering deep in the center of an ice-white wonderland—that’s Tahoe in winter. But those blankets of snow mean lots of storms that often close roads and force chain requirements on the interstate. In summer the roads are open, but the lake and lodgings are clogged with visitors seeking respite from valley heat. If you don’t ski, the best times to visit are early fall—September and October—and late spring. The crowds thin, prices dip, and you can count on Tahoe being beautiful.

Most Lake Tahoe accommodations, restaurants, and even a handful of parks are open year-round, but many visitor centers, mansions, state parks, and beaches are closed from October through May. During those months, winter-sports enthusiasts swamp Tahoe’s downhill resorts and cross-country centers, North America’s largest concentration of skiing facilities. In summer it’s cooler here than in the scorched Sierra Nevada foothills, the clean mountain air is bracingly crisp, and the surface temperature of Lake Tahoe is an invigorating 65°F to 70°F (compared with 40°F to 50°F in winter). This is also the time, however, when it may seem as if every tourist at the lake—100,000 on peak weekends—is in a car on the main road circling the shoreline (especially on Highway 89, just south of Tahoe City; on Highway 28, east of Tahoe City; and on U.S. 50 in South Lake Tahoe). Christmas week and July 4th are the busiest times, and prices go through the roof; plan accordingly.

Getting Here and Around

Air Travel

The nearest airport to Lake Tahoe is Reno–Tahoe International Airport (RNO), in Reno, 50 miles northeast of the closest point on the lake. Airlines serving RNO include Alaska, Allegiant Air, American, Delta, Jet Blue, Southwest, United, U.S. Airways, and Volaris. Except for Allegiant Air, these airlines plus Aeromexico and Hawaiian serve Sacramento International Airport (SMF), 112 miles from South Lake Tahoe. North Lake Tahoe Express runs buses ($49 each way) between RNO and towns on the lake’s western and northern shores, plus Incline Village, Truckee, Squaw Valley, and Northstar. South Tahoe Express runs buses ($29.75 one-way, $53 round-trip) between Reno–Tahoe Airport and resort hotels in the South Lake Tahoe area.

Transfer Contacts
North Lake Tahoe Express. | 866/216–5222 | www.northlaketahoeexpress.com.
South Tahoe Express. | 775/325–8944, 866/898–2463 | www.southtahoeexpress.com.

Bus Travel

Greyhound stops in San Francisco, Sacramento, Truckee, and Reno. BlueGO ($2 per ride) provides year-round local service in South Lake Tahoe. On the north shore, Tahoe Area Regional Transit (TART; $1.75) operates buses between Tahoma and Incline Village and runs shuttles to Truckee. RTC RIDE buses ($2) serve the Reno area. All local rides require exact change.

In winter, BlueGO provides free ski shuttle service from South Lake Tahoe hotels and resorts to various Heavenly Mountain ski lodge locations. Most of the major ski resorts offer shuttle service to nearby lodging.

Bus Contacts
Greyhound. | 800/231–2222 | www.greyhound.com.
BlueGO. | 530/541–7149 | www.tahoetransportation.org/transit/south-shore-services.
RTC RIDE. | 775/348–7433 | www.rtcwashoe.com.
Tahoe Area Regional Transit (TART). | 530/550–1212, 800/736–6365 | www.placer.ca.gov/departments/works/transit/tart.

Car Travel

Lake Tahoe is 198 miles northeast of San Francisco, a drive of less than four hours in good weather and light traffic—if possible avoid heavy weekend traffic, particularly leaving the San Francisco area for Tahoe on Friday afternoon and returning on Sunday afternoon. The major route is Interstate 80, which cuts through the Sierra Nevada about 14 miles north of the lake. From there Highway 89 and Highway 267 reach the west and north shores, respectively.

U.S. 50 is the more direct route to the south shore, a two-hour drive from Sacramento. From Reno you can get to the north shore by heading south on U.S. 395/Interstate 580 for 10 miles, then west on Highway 431 for 25 miles. For the south shore, head south on U.S. 395/Interstate 580 through Carson City, and then turn west on U.S. 50 (56 miles total).

The scenic 72-mile highway around the lake is marked Highway 89 on the southwest and west shores, Highway 28 on the north and northeast shores, and U.S. 50 on the east and southeast. Sections of Highway 89 sometimes close during snowy periods, usually at Emerald Bay because of avalanche danger, which makes it impossible to complete the circular drive around the lake. Interstate 80, U.S. 50, and U.S. 395/Interstate 580 are all-weather highways, but there may be delays while snow is cleared during major storms.

Interstate 80 is a four-lane freeway; much of U.S. 50 is only two lanes with no center divider. Carry tire chains from October through May, or rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle. Most rental agencies do not allow tire chains to be used on their vehicles; ask when you book.

Train Travel

Amtrak’s cross-country rail service makes stops in Truckee and Reno. Amtrak also operates several buses daily between Reno and Sacramento to connect with coastal train routes.

Train Contact
Amtrak. | 800/872–7245 | www.amtrak.com.

Restaurants

On weekends and in high season, expect a long wait at the more popular restaurants. And expect to pay resort prices almost everywhere. During the “shoulder seasons” (from April to May and September to November), some places may close temporarily or limit their hours, so call ahead. Also, check local papers for deals and discounts during this time, especially two-for-one coupons. Many casinos use their restaurants to attract gamblers. Marquees often tout “$8.99 prime rib dinners” or “$2.99 breakfast specials.” Some of these meals are downright lousy and they are usually available only in the coffee shops and buffets, but at those prices, it’s hard to complain. The finer restaurants in casinos deliver pricier food, as well as reasonable service and a bit of atmosphere. Unless otherwise noted, even the most expensive area restaurants welcome customers in casual clothes.

Hotels

Quiet inns on the water, suburban-style strip motels, casino hotels, slope-side ski lodges, and house and condo rentals throughout the area constitute the lodging choices at Tahoe. The crowds come in summer and during ski season; reserve as far in advance as possible, especially for holiday periods when prices skyrocket. Spring and fall give you a little more leeway and lower—sometimes significantly lower, especially at casino hotels—rates. Check hotel websites for the best deals.

Head to South Lake Tahoe for the most activities and the widest range of lodging options. Heavenly Village in the heart of town has an ice rink, cinema, shops, fine-dining restaurants, and simple cafés, plus a gondola that will whisk you up to the ski park. Walk two blocks south from downtown, and you can hit the casinos.

Tahoe City, on the west shore, has a small-town atmosphere and is accessible to several nearby ski resorts. A few miles northwest of the lake, Squaw Valley USA has its own self-contained upscale village, an aerial tram to the slopes, and numerous outdoor activities once the snow melts.

Looking for a taste of Old Tahoe? The north shore with its woodsy backdrop is your best bet, with Carnelian Bay and Tahoe Vista on the California side. And across the Nevada border are casino resorts where Hollywood’s glamour-stars once romped.

Outdoors and Backcountry Tips

If you’re planning to spend any time outdoors around Lake Tahoe, whether hiking, climbing, skiing, or camping, be aware that weather conditions can change quickly in the Sierra. To avoid hypothermia, always bring a pocket-size, fold-up rain poncho (available in all sporting-goods stores) to keep you dry. Wear long pants and a hat. Carry plenty of water. Because you’ll likely be walking on granite, wear sturdy, closed-toe hiking boots, with soles that grip rock. If you’re going into the backcountry, bring a signaling device (such as a mirror), emergency whistle, compass, map, energy bars, and water purifier. When heading out alone, tell someone where you’re going and when you expect to return.

If you plan to ski, be aware of resort elevations. In the event of a winter storm, determine the snow level before you choose the resort you’ll ski. Often the level can be as high as 7,000 feet, which means rain at some resorts’ base areas but snow at others.

BackCountry, in Truckee, operates an excellent website with current information about how and where to (and where not to) ski, mountain bike, and hike in the backcountry around Tahoe. The store also stocks everything from crampons to transceivers. For storm information, check the National Weather Service’s website; for ski conditions, visit onthesnow.com. For reservations at campgrounds in California state parks, contact Reserve America. If you plan to camp in the backcountry of the national forests, you’ll need to purchase a wilderness permit, which you can pick up at the forest service office or at a ranger station at any forest entrance. If you plan to ski the backcountry, check the U.S. Forest Service’s recorded information for conditions.

Skiing and Snowboarding

The mountains around Lake Tahoe are bombarded by blizzards throughout most winters and sometimes in fall and spring; 10- to 12-foot bases are common. Indeed, the Sierras often have the deepest snowpack on the continent, but because of the relatively mild temperatures over the Pacific, falling snow can be very heavy and wet—it’s nicknamed “Sierra Cement” for a reason. The upside is that you can sometimes ski and board as late as May (snowboarding is permitted at all Tahoe ski areas). The major resorts get extremely crowded on weekends. If you’re going to ski on a Saturday, arrive early and quit early. Avoid moving with the masses: eat at 11 am or 1:30 pm, not noon. Also consider visiting the ski areas with few high-speed lifts or limited lodging and real estate at their bases: Alpine Meadows, Sugar Bowl, Homewood, Mt. Rose, Sierra-at-Tahoe, Diamond Peak, and Kirkwood. And to find out the true ski conditions, talk to waiters and bartenders—most of them are ski bums.

The Lake Tahoe area is also a great destination for Nordic skiers. “Skinny” (i.e., cross-country) skiing at the resorts can be costly, but you get the benefits of machine grooming and trail preparation. If it’s bargain Nordic you’re after, take advantage of thousands of acres of public forest and parkland trails.

Tours

Lake Tahoe Balloons.
Take a hot-air balloon flight over the lake from mid-May through mid-October with this experienced company. The excursion begins shortly after sunrise and takes four hours total, including a traditional champagne toast at journey’s end. | Tahoe Keys Marina, at end of Venice Dr. East | South Lake Tahoe | 530/544–1221, 800/872–9294 | www.laketahoeballoons.com | From $295.

MS Dixie II.
The 520-passenger MS Dixie II, a stern-wheeler, sails year-round from Zephyr Cove to Emerald Bay on sightseeing and dinner cruises. | Zephyr Cove Marina,760 U.S. Hwy. 50, near Church St. | Zephyr Cove, Nevada | 775/589–4906, 800/238–2463 | www.zephyrcove.com/cruises | From $51.

Sierra Cloud.
From May to September, the Sierra Cloud, a 41-passenger catamaran, departs from the Hyatt Regency beach at Incline Village and cruises the north and east shore areas. | Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe,111 Country Club Dr. | Incline Village | 775/831–4386 | www.awsincline.com | From $65.

Tahoe Boat Cruises.
From April to October, this company offers various boating experiences. The Woodwind II, a 50-passenger catamaran, sails from Zephyr Cove on regular and champagne cruises. The company’s Safari Rose, an 80-foot-long wooden motor yacht, departs from Tahoe Keys Marina for half-day cruises around the lake. From late May to mid-October, their classic wooden boat, the Tahoe, takes passengers on an east shore cruise with a walking tour of Thunderbird Lodge historic site. | Zephyr Cove Resort,760 U.S. Hwy. 50, near Church St. | Zephyr Cove | 775/588–1881, 888/867–6394 | www.tahoecruises.com | From $34.

Tahoe Queen.
The 312-passenger Tahoe Queen, a partially glass-bottomed paddle wheeler, departs from South Lake Tahoe daily for 2½-hour sightseeing cruises year-round by reservation and 3-hour dinner-dance cruises daily from late spring to early fall (weekly the rest of the year). Fares range from $51 to $83. | Ski Run Marina,900 Ski Run Blvd., off U.S. 50 | South Lake Tahoe | 530/543–6191, 800/238–2463 | www.zephyrcove.com/cruises | From $51.

Visitor Information

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