HIKING KANE CREEK SCENIC DRIVE AND U.S. 191 SOUTH
By far the largest town in southeastern Utah, Moab (population 5,150, elevation 4,025 feet) makes an excellent base for exploring Arches and Canyonlands National Parks and the surrounding canyon country. Moab is near the Colorado River in a green valley enclosed by high red sandstone cliffs. The biblical Moab was a kingdom at the edge of Zion, and early settlers must have felt themselves at the edge of their world too, being so isolated from Salt Lake City—the Mormon version of Zion. Moab’s existence on the fringe of Mormon culture and the sizable young non-Mormon population give the town a unique character.
Moab’s first boom came during the 1950s, when vast deposits of uranium, important fuel for the atomic age, were discovered. By the 1970s the uranium mines were largely abandoned, but all the rough roads that had been built to access the mines set the stage for exploration with jeeps, ATVs, and mountain bikes. Another legacy of the uranium boom can be seen along the highway at the north end of town, where the area around the Colorado River bridge is the site of a massive environmental cleanup, slated to take years to complete.
In recent years Moab has become nearly synonymous with mountain biking. The slickrock canyon country seems made for exploration by bike, and people come from all over the world to pedal the backcountry. River trips on the Colorado River are nearly as popular, and a host of other outdoor recreational diversions—from horseback riding to 4WD jeep exploring to hot-air ballooning—combine to make Moab one of the most popular destinations in Utah.
LOOK FOR M TO FIND RECOMMENDED SIGHTS, ACTIVITIES, DINING, AND LODGING.
M Dead Horse Point State Park: Thirty minutes northwest of Moab, this peninsula of land perched 2,000 feet above the Colorado River has spectacular viewpoints, great camping, and mountain bike trails suitable for the whole family (click here).
M Corona Arch and Bowtie Arch Trail: This hike doesn’t require a lot of exertion, but there’s plenty of payback. Three arches are visible from the short trail, including 140-foot-wide Corona Arch, larger than many in Arches National Park (click here).
M Fisher Towers: These thin rock columns reach nearly 1,000 feet into the desert sky just south of Highway 128, northeast of Moab. Hiking trails loop through the unworldly landscape, ringing the mast-like formations and leading to overlooks of rugged Onion Creek Canyon (click here).
M Gemini Bridges Trail: Skip the pros and posers at the Slickrock Trail and have some real fun on the mostly downhill ride from the trailhead near Dead Horse Point State Park to U.S. 191. Most cyclists do this 14-mile one-way ride with a shuttle vehicle (click here).
M Air Tours: It’s hard to grasp the scale of Moab’s canyon country without getting up above it. Local aviators offer flightseeing trips, providing the chance to see this amazing landscape from the viewpoint of an eagle (click here).
As Moab’s popularity has grown, so have concerns that the town and the surrounding countryside are simply getting loved to death. On a busy day, hundreds of mountain bikers form queues to negotiate the trickier sections of the famed Slickrock Trail, and more than 20,000 people crowd into town on busy weekends to bike, hike, float, and party. As noted in an article in Details magazine, “Moab is pretty much the Fort Lauderdale of the intermountain West.” Whether this old Mormon town and the delicate desert environment can endure such an onslaught of popularity is a question of increasing concern.
While many people come to Moab because of what it’s near, there’s certainly enough to do in the town to justify adding an extra day to a park-focused itinerary just for exploring Moab and environs. It’s easy to spend a few hours lounging by the hotel pool or shopping for books, crafts, and gifts, and the quality of the food and locally brewed beer has its own appeal, particularly after several days of hiking or driving the Utah outback.
Moab is also central for expeditions into the less regulated red-rock canyon country not included in the national parks. Take a break from exploring the parks themselves and devote a day to nonpark adventures, such as jet-boat tours on the Colorado River, horseback rides in Castle Valley, ATV tours into the backcountry, hikes with your dog, or even tasting local vintages.
Moab is the most hospitable town in this part of Utah, so don’t blow right through. Take time to stop and enjoy its quirky charms. However, be forewarned that the adrenaline (or is it testosterone?) level reaches a fever pitch here during spring break, so don’t plan a quiet weekend in Moab anytime around Easter.
It’s fair to say that Moab doesn’t tempt travelers with a lot of traditional tourism establishments, but all you have to do is raise your eyes to the horizon. The locale is so striking that you’ll want to get outdoors and explore, and the astonishing sights of Canyonlands and Arches National Parks are just minutes from town. But there’s nothing wrong with just enjoying the enthusiastic vibe of the town.
The regional Museum of Moab (118 E. Center St., 435/259-7985, www.moabmuseum.org, 10am-5pm Mon.-Fri., noon-5pm Sat. Mar.-Oct., noon-5pm Mon.-Sat. Nov.-Feb., $5 over age 17, $10 families) tells the story of Moab’s and Grand County’s past, from prehistoric and Ute artifacts to the explorations of Spanish missionaries. Photos and tools show pioneer Moab life, much of which centered on ranching or mining. You’ll also find displays of rocks and minerals as well as the bones of huge dinosaurs, including the backbone of a sauropod found by a rancher just outside town.
Fifteen miles south of Moab, Albert Christensen worked 12 years to excavate his dream home within a sandstone monolith south of town. When he died in 1957, his wife, Gladys, worked another eight years to complete the 5,000-square-foot house, called Hole ’n the Rock (11037 S. U.S. 191, 435/686-2250, www.theholeintherock.com, 9am-5pm daily, $5 adults, $3.50 ages 5-10). It’s now a full-on roadside attraction. The interior has notable touches like a 65-foot chimney drilled through the rock ceiling, paintings, taxidermy exhibits, and a lapidary room. The 14-room home is open for 12-minute-long guided tours and offers a gift shop, petting zoo, picnic area, and snack bar.
The 0.5-mile Mill Canyon Dinosaur Trail, with numbered stops, identifies the bones of dinosaurs that lived in the wet climate that existed here 150 million years ago. You’ll see fossilized wood and dinosaur footprints too. Pick up the brochure from the Moab Information Center (25 E. Center St., at Main St., 435/259-8825 or 800/635-6622, www.discovermoab.com) or at the trailhead.
To reach the dinosaur site, drive 15 miles north of Moab on U.S. 191, then turn left (west) at an intersection just north of milepost 141. Cross the railroad tracks and continue two miles on a rough dirt road (impassable when wet) to the trailhead.
You’ll find many other points of interest nearby. A copper mill and tailings dating from the late 1800s are across the canyon. The ruins of Halfway Stage Station, where travelers once stopped on the Thompson-Moab run, are a short distance down the other road fork. Jeepers and mountain bikers can do a 13-14-mile loop to Monitor and Merrimac Buttes; a sign just off U.S. 191 has a map and details.
Apatosaurus, a.k.a. brontosaurus, and theropod tracks crisscross an ancient riverbed at the Copper Ridge Sauropod Tracks site. It’s easy to make out the two-foot-wide hind footprints of the brontosaurus, but its small front feet didn’t leave much of a dent in the sand. Three-toed tracks of the carnivorous theropods, possibly allosaurus, are 8-15 inches long, and some show an irregular gait—perhaps indicating a limp.
The Copper Ridge tracks are 23 miles north of Moab on U.S. 191; turn right (east) 0.75 miles north of milepost 148. Cross the railroad tracks and turn south, following signs two miles to the tracks.
Just east of Canyonlands National Park’s Island in the Sky District and a short drive northwest of Moab is one of Utah’s most spectacular state parks. At Dead Horse Point (435/259-2614, www.stateparks.utah.gov, day-use $10 per vehicle), the land drops away in sheer cliffs, and 2,000 feet below the Colorado River twists through a gooseneck on its long journey to the sea. The river and its tributaries have carved canyons that reveal a geologic layer cake of colorful rock formations. Even in a region with impressive views around nearly every corner, Dead Horse Point stands out for its exceptionally breathtaking panorama. You’ll also see below you, along the Colorado River, the result of powerful underground forces: Salt, under pressure, has pushed up overlying rock layers into an anticline. This formation, the Shafer Dome, contains potash that is being processed by the Moab Salt Plant. You can see the mine buildings, processing plant, and evaporation ponds, which are tinted blue to hasten evaporation.
A narrow neck of land only 30 yards wide connects the point with the rest of the plateau. Cowboys once herded wild horses onto the point, then placed a fence across the neck to make a 40-acre corral. They chose the desirable animals from the herd and let the rest go. According to one tale, a group of horses left behind after such a roundup became confused by the geography of the point. They couldn’t find their way off and circled repeatedly until they died of thirst within sight of the river below. You may also hear other stories of how the point got its name.
Dead Horse Point State Park, just northwest of Moab, is full of outstanding views.
Besides the awe-inspiring views, the park also has a visitors center (8am-6pm daily mid-Mar.-mid-Oct., 9am-5pm daily mid-Oct.-mid-Mar.), a very popular campground, a picnic area, a group area, a nature trail, hiking trails, and great mountain biking on the Intrepid Trail System. Spectacularly scenic hiking trails run along the east and west rims of the peninsula-like park; hikers are also allowed to use the Intrepid trails. Rangers lead hikes during the busy spring season and on some evenings during the summer, including monthly full-moon hikes. Whether you’re visiting for the day or camping at Dead Horse Point, it’s best to bring plenty of water. Although water is available here, it is trucked in.
Dead Horse Point is easily reached by paved road, either as a destination itself or as a side trip on the way to the Island in the Sky District of Canyonlands National Park. From Moab, head northwest 10 miles on U.S. 191, then turn left and travel 22 miles on Highway 313. The drive along Highway 313 climbs through a scenic canyon and tops out on a ridge with panoramas of distant mesas, buttes, mountains, and canyons. There are several rest areas along the road.
Each of the following routes is at least partly accessible to standard low-clearance highway vehicles. If you have a 4WD vehicle, you have the option of additional off-road exploring.
You’ll find detailed travel information on these and other places in Charles Wells’s Guide to Moab, UT Backroads & 4-Wheel Drive Trails, which, along with a good selection of maps, is available at the Moab Information Center (25 E. Center St., at Main St., 435/259-8825 or 800/635-6622, www.discovermoab.com). Staff at the info center usually know current road and trail conditions.
Highway 279 goes downstream along the west side of the Colorado River Canyon on the other side of the river from Moab. Pavement extends 16 miles past fine views, prehistoric rock art, arches, and hiking trails. A potash plant marks the end of the highway; a rough dirt road continues to Canyonlands National Park. From Moab, head north 3.5 miles on U.S. 191, then turn left on Highway 279. The highway enters the canyon at the “portal,” 2.7 miles from the turnoff. Towering sandstone cliffs rise on the right, and the Colorado River drifts along just below on the left.
Stop at a signed pullout on the left, 0.6 miles past the canyon entrance, to see Indian Ruins Viewpoint, a small prehistoric Native American ruin tucked under a ledge across the river. The stone structure was probably used for food storage.
Groups of petroglyphs cover cliffs along the highway 5.2 miles from U.S. 191, which is 0.7 miles beyond milepost 11. Look across the river to see the Fickle Finger of Fate among the sandstone fins of Behind the Rocks. A petroglyph of a bear is 0.2 miles farther down the highway. Archaeologists think that the Fremont people and the later Utes did most of the artwork in this area.
A signed pullout on the right, 6.2 miles from U.S. 191, points out dinosaur tracks and petroglyphs visible on rocks above. Sighting tubes help locate the features. It’s possible to hike up the steep hillside for a closer look.
Ten miles west of the highway turnoff is the trailhead for the Corona Arch Trail (3 miles round-trip).
The aptly named Jug Handle Arch, with an opening 46 feet high and 3 feet wide, is close to the road on the right, 13.6 miles from U.S. 191. Ahead the canyon opens up where underground pressure from salt and potash has folded the rock layers into an anticline.
At the Moab Salt Plant, mining operations inject water underground to dissolve potash and other chemicals, then pump the solution to evaporation ponds. The ponds are dyed blue to hasten evaporation, which takes about a year. You can see these colorful ponds from Dead Horse Point and Anticline Overlook on the canyon rims.
High-clearance vehicles can continue on the unpaved road beyond the plant. The road passes through varied canyon country, with views overlooking the Colorado River. At a road junction in Canyonlands National Park’s Island in the Sky District, you have a choice of turning left for the 100-mile White Rim Trail (4WD vehicles only past Musselman Arch), continuing up the steep switchbacks of the Shafer Trail Road (4WD recommended) to the paved park road, or returning the way you came.
Highway 128 turns northeast from U.S. 191 just south of the Colorado River Bridge, two miles north of Moab. This exceptionally scenic canyon route follows the Colorado for 30 miles upstream before crossing at Dewey Bridge and turning north to I-70. The entire highway is paved. The Lions Park picnic area at the turnoff from U.S. 191 is a pleasant stopping place. Big Bend Recreation Site is another good spot 7.5 miles up Highway 128.
The rugged scenery along this stretch of the Colorado River has been featured in many films—mostly Westerns, but also Thelma and Louise—and commercials. If you’re intrigued, stop by the free Film Museum at Red Cliffs Ranch, a resort near mile marker 14.
The paved and scenic La Sal Mountains Loop Road, with viewpoints overlooking Castle Valley, Arches and Canyonlands National Parks, Moab Rim, and other scenic features, has its northern terminus at Castle Valley, climbs high into the La Sals, and then loops back to Moab. Vegetation along the drive runs the whole range from the cottonwoods, sage, and rabbitbrush of the desert to forests of aspen, fir, and spruce. The 62-mile loop road can easily take a full day with stops for scenic overlooks, a picnic, and a bit of hiking or fishing. Because of the high elevations, the loop’s season usually lasts May-October. Before venturing off the Loop Road, it’s a good idea to check current back-road conditions with the Moab Information Center (25 E. Center St., at Main St., 435/259-8825 or 800/635-6622, www.discovermoab.com). You can also ask for a road log of sights and side roads. The turnoff from Highway 128 is 15.5 miles up from U.S. 191.
A graded county road, Onion Creek Road turns southeast off Highway 128 about 20 miles from U.S. 191 and heads up Onion Creek, crossing it many times. Avoid this route if storms threaten. The unpleasant-smelling creek contains poisonous arsenic and selenium. Colorful rock formations of dark red sandstone line the creek. After about eight miles, the road climbs steeply out of Onion Creek to upper Fisher Valley and a junction with Kokopelli’s Trail, which follows a jeep road over this part of its route.
One of the area’s most striking sights are the gothic spires of Fisher Towers, which soar as high as 900 feet above Professor Valley. Supposedly, the name Fisher is not that of a pioneer but a corruption of the geologic term fissure (a narrow crack). In 1962, three climbers from Colorado made the first ascent of Titan Tower, the tallest of the three towers. The almost vertical rock faces, overhanging bulges, and sections of rotten rock made for an exhausting 3.5 days of climbing; the party descended to the base for two of the nights. Their final descent from the summit took only six hours. In 2008 a slackliner walked a rope strung between the two tallest towers, and visitors to the towers can frequently see climbers and occasionally slackline walkers. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) has a small campground and picnic area nearby, and a hiking trail skirts the base of the three main towers. An unpaved road turns southeast off Highway 128 near milepost 21, which is 21 miles from U.S. 191, and continues two miles to the picnic area.
The Fisher Towers are nearly 1,000 feet tall.
The existing Dewey Bridge, 30 miles up the highway, replaced a picturesque wood-and-steel suspension bridge built in 1916, which burned in 2008. Here, the BLM has built the Dewey Bridge Recreation Site, with a picnic area, a trailhead, a boat launch, and a small campground.
Upstream from Dewey Bridge are the wild rapids of Westwater Canyon. The Colorado River cut this narrow gorge into dark metamorphic rock. You can raft or kayak down the river in one day or a more leisurely two days; many local outfitters offer trips. Camping is limited to a single night. Unlike most desert rivers, this section of the Colorado River also offers good river-running at low water levels in late summer and autumn. Westwater Canyon’s inner gorge, where boaters face their greatest challenge, is only about 3.5 miles long; however, you can enjoy scenic sandstone canyons both upstream and downstream.
The rough 4WD Top-of-the-World Road climbs to an overlook with outstanding views of Fisher Towers, Fisher Valley, Onion Creek, and beyond. Pick up a map at the Moab Information Center (25 E. Center St., at Main St., 435/259-8825 or 800/635-6622, www.discovermoab.com) to guide you to the rim. The elevation here is 6,800 feet, nearly 3,000 feet higher than the Colorado River.
Kane Creek Road heads downstream along the Colorado River on the same side as Moab. The four miles through the Colorado River Canyon are paved, followed by six miles of good dirt road through Kane Springs Canyon. This route also leads to several hiking trails and campgrounds. People with high-clearance vehicles or mountain bikes can continue across Kane Springs Creek to Hurrah Pass and an extensive network of 4WD trails. From Moab, drive south on Main Street (U.S. 191) for one mile, then turn right onto Kane Creek Boulevard, which becomes Kane Creek Road.
Moab is at the center of some of the most picturesque landscapes in North America. Even the least outdoorsy visitor will want to explore the river canyons, natural arches, and mesas. Mountain biking and river tours are the recreational activities that get the most attention in the Moab area, although hikers, climbers, and horseback riders also find plenty to do. If you’re less physically adventurous, you can explore the landscape on scenic flights or follow old mining roads in a jeep to remote backcountry destinations.
It’s easy to find outfitters and sporting goods rental operations in Moab; it’s the largest business segment in town. And there’s a remarkable cohesion to the town’s operations: It seems that everyone markets everyone else’s excursions and services, so just ask the closest outfitter for whatever service you need, and chances are excellent you’ll get hooked up with what you want.
Make the Moab Information Center (25 E. Center St., at Main St., 435/259-8825 or 800/635-6622, www.discovermoab.com) your first stop in town. It’s an excellent source for information about the area’s recreational options. The center is staffed by representatives of the National Park Service, the BLM, the U.S. Forest Service, and the Canyonlands Field Institute; they can direct you to the adventure of your liking. The center also has literature, books, and maps for sale. BLM officials can point you to the developed and undeveloped designated campsites near the Moab Slickrock Bike Trail, Kane Creek, and along the Colorado River; you must use the designated sites in these areas.
To reach most of Moab’s prime hiking trails requires a short drive to trailheads. For more options, head to nearby Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. Canyonlands Field Institute (435/259-7750 or 800/860-5262, www.canyonlandsfieldinst.org) leads day hikes from (Sat.-Sun. mid-Apr.-mid-Oct., $40-45, includes transportation and park admission) at various locations near Moab; join one to really learn about the area’s natural history.
The high cliffs just southwest of town provide fine views of the Moab Valley, the highlands of Arches National Park, and the La Sal Mountains.
• Distance: 6 miles round-trip
• Duration: 4 hours
• Elevation change: 940 feet
• Effort: moderate
• Trailhead: Kane Creek Boulevard, 2.6 miles northwest of its intersection with U.S. 191 in Moab
If you’re hiking, expect to share this route with mountain bikers and 4WD enthusiasts. The trail climbs northeast 1.5 miles along tilted rock strata of the Kayenta Formation to the top of the plateau west of Moab, with the first of several great views over town and the Spanish Valley. Once on top, hikers can follow jeep roads southeast to Hidden Valley Trail, which descends to U.S. 191 south of Moab—a 5.5-mile trip one-way. Experienced hikers can also head south from the rim to Behind the Rocks, a fantastic maze of sandstone fins.
• Distance: 2.3 miles round-trip to Behind the Rocks overlook
• Duration: 3 hours
• Elevation change: 680 feet
• Effort: moderate
• Trailhead: 3 miles south of Moab on U.S. 191 and right onto Angel Rock Road. After two blocks, turn right onto Rimrock Road and drive to the parking area.
You’ll see not only a hidden valley from this trail, but also panoramas of the Moab area and the Behind the Rocks area. The trail ascends a series of switchbacks to a broad shelf below the Moab Rim, then follows the shelf (hidden valley) to the northwest. It then crosses a low pass and follows a second shelf in the same direction. Near the end of the second shelf, the trail turns left to a divide, where you can see a portion of the remarkable fins of Behind the Rocks. The trail continues 0.3 miles from the divide down to the end of the Moab Rim Trail, with the possibility of hiking on loop trails. Instead of turning left to the divide, you can make a short side trip (no trail) to the right for views of Moab.
• Distance: 4 miles round-trip
• Duration: 4 hours
• Elevation change: 240 feet
• Effort: moderate
• Trailhead: on Kane Creek Scenic Drive, 7.5 miles west of its intersection with U.S. 191. Hunters Canyon is on the left, 1 mile beyond the switchbacks.
• Directions: To reach the trailhead from Moab, drive eight miles on Kane Creek Boulevard along the Colorado River and up Kane Creek Canyon. The road is asphalted where it fords Hunters Creek, but the asphalt is usually covered with dirt washed over it by the creek.
A rock arch and other rock formations in the canyon walls and the lush vegetation along the creek are highlights of a Hunters Canyon hike. Off-road vehicles have made tracks a short way up; you’ll be walking, mostly along the creek bed. Short sections of trail lead around thickets of tamarisk and other water-loving plants. Look for Hunters Arch on the right, about 0.5 miles up. Most of the water in Hunters Canyon comes from a deep pool surrounded by hanging gardens of maidenhair ferns. A dry fall and a small natural bridge are above the pool. This pretty spot marks the hike’s three-mile point and an elevation gain of 240 feet. At this point, the hike becomes very brushy.
You can make a longer hike by going up Hunters Canyon and descending on Pritchett Canyon Road. The road crosses the normally dry creek bed just upstream from the deep pool. To bypass the dry fall above the pool, backtrack 300 feet down the canyon and rock-scramble up a short steep slope on the right heading upstream. At a junction just east of here, a jeep road along the north rim of Hunters Canyon meets Pritchett Canyon Road. Walk northeast 0.5 miles on Pritchett Canyon Road to a spur trail (on the left) leading to Pritchett Arch. Then continue 4.5 miles on Pritchett Canyon Road to Kane Creek Boulevard. This country is more open and desertlike than Hunters Canyon. A 3.2-mile car shuttle or hike is required for the return to Hunters Canyon trailhead.
Bowtie Arch was formed when a pothole in the cliffs above met a cave below.
• Distance: 4 miles round-trip
• Duration: 3 hours
• Elevation change: 980 feet
• Effort: moderate
• Trailhead: JayCee Park Recreation Site, Highway 279, 4.2 miles west of the Highway 279-U.S. 191 junction
The Portal Overlook Trail switchbacks up a slope, then follows a sloping sandstone ledge of the Kayenta Formation for two miles to an overlook. A panorama (the “portal”) takes in the Colorado River, Moab Valley, Arches National Park, and the La Sal Mountains. This trail is a twin of the Moab Rim Trail across the river. Expect to share it with mountain bikers.
• Distance: 3 miles round-trip
• Duration: 2 hours
• Elevation change: 200 feet
• Effort: moderate
• Trailhead: Highway 279, 10 miles west of the Highway 279-U.S. 191 junction
If you have time for only one hike in the Moab area, this one is especially recommended. The trail leads across slickrock country to two impressive arches. You can’t see them from the road, although a third arch—Pinto—is visible. The trail climbs 1.5 miles up from the parking area, crosses railroad tracks, and follows a jeep road and a small wash to an ancient gravel bar. Pinto Arch, also called Gold Bar Arch, stands to the left, but there’s no trail to it. Follow rock cairns to Corona and Bowtie Arches. Handrails and a ladder help in the few steep spots.
Despite being only a few hundred yards apart, each arch has a completely different character and history. Bowtie formed when a pothole in the cliffs above met a cave underneath. It used to be called Paul Bunyan’s Potty before that name was appropriated for an arch in Canyonlands National Park. The hole is about 30 feet in diameter. Corona Arch, reminiscent of the larger Rainbow Bridge, eroded out of a sandstone fin. The graceful span is 140 feet long and 105 feet high. Both arches are composed of Navajo sandstone.
• Distance: 4 miles round-trip
• Duration: 3-4 hours
• Elevation change: 330 feet
• Effort: easy-moderate
• Trailhead: Highway 128, 3 miles east of the Highway 128-U.S. 191 junction
One of the most popular hiking destinations in the Moab area, the Negro Bill Canyon trail follows a lively stream dammed by beavers and surrounded by abundant greenery and sheer cliffs. The high point of the hike is Morning Glory Natural Bridge, the sixth-longest natural rock span in the country at 243 feet.
William Granstaff was the first non-Native American to live in the area, about 1877-1881; modern sensibilities have changed his nickname to “Negro Bill.” The trailhead and a large parking area are on the right just after crossing a concrete bridge three miles from U.S. 191. The Granstaff campground, run by the BLM, is on the banks of the Colorado River just across the road from the trailhead.
The trail follows the creek up the canyon, with numerous stream crossings. Although the crossings are not difficult, hikers must be comfortable with stepping from rock to rock.
The trail up Negro Bill Canyon is cooler and shadier than many trails around Moab.
To see Morning Glory Natural Bridge, head two miles up the main canyon to the second side canyon on the right, then follow a good but fairly steep side trail for 0.5 miles up to the long slender bridge. The spring and small pool underneath keep the air cool even in summer; ferns, columbines, and abundant poison ivy grow here.
Experienced hikers can continue up the main canyon about eight miles and rock-scramble (there’s no trail) up the right side, then drop into Rill Creek, which leads to the North Fork of Mill Creek and into Moab. The total distance is about 16 miles one-way; you’ll have to find your own way between canyons. The upper Negro Bill and Rill Canyons can also be reached from Sand Flats Road. The Moab and Castle Valley 15-minute and Moab 1:100,000 topographic maps cover the route. This makes a good overnight trip, although fast hikers have done it in a day. Expect to do some wading and rock scrambling. Water from the creeks and springs is available in both canyon systems, but be sure to purify it first.
A car shuttle is necessary between the Negro Bill and Mill Creek trailheads. You can reach Mill Creek from the end of Powerhouse Lane on the east edge of Moab, but don’t park here: Vehicle break-ins are a serious problem. Have someone meet you or drop you off here or park closer to town near houses. A hike up the North Fork offers very pretty scenery. A deep pool and waterfall are 0.75 miles upstream; follow Mill Creek upstream and take the left (north) fork. Negro Bill and Mill Creek Canyons are BLM wilderness study areas.
• Distance: 4.4 miles round-trip
• Duration: 4 hours
• Elevation change: 670 feet
• Effort: moderate
• Trailhead: off Highway 128; 21 miles east of the Highway 128-U.S. 191 junction, turn right and go 2.2 miles on an improved dirt road to a parking lot
These spires of dark-red sandstone rise 900 feet above Professor Valley. You can hike around the base of these needle rocks on a trail accessed by a short flight of stairs from the BLM picnic area. The trail follows a small slickrock-covered ridge leading away from the main cliffs; when the ridge narrows, go left into the ravine through a small cut in the ridge. From the bottom of the ravine, the trail heads steeply up and then begins to wind directly beneath the Fisher Towers. After skirting around the largest tower, the Titan, the trail ascends and ends after 2.2 miles on a ridge with a panoramic view. The Fisher Towers attract many very good rock climbers, and hikers may find that they linger along the trail to watch some spectacular climbing exploits. Carry water, as much of the trail is exposed and is frequently quite hot.
The first mountain bikes came to Moab in 1982, when they were used to herd cattle. That didn’t work out so well, but within a decade or so, Moab had become the West’s most noted mountain bike destination. In addition to riding the famed and challenging slickrock trails (slickrock is the exposed sandstone that composes much of the land’s surface here, and despite its name, bike tires grab it quite nicely) that wind through astonishing desert landscapes, cyclists can pedal through alpine meadows in the La Sal Mountains or take nearly abandoned 4WD tracks into the surrounding backcountry. Beware: The most famous trails—like the Slickrock Bike Trail—are not for beginners. Other trails are better matched to the skills of novices.
It’s a good idea to read up on Moab-area trails before planning a trip; heaps of books and pamphlets are available. You can also hire an outfitter to teach you about the special skills needed to mountain-bike in slickrock country, or join a guided tour. The Moab Information Center’s website (www.discovermoab.com) also has good information about bike trails.
Most people come to Moab to mountain bike mid-March-late May, and then again in the fall mid-September-end of October. Unless you are an early riser, summer is simply too hot for extended bike touring in these desert canyons. Be prepared for crowds, especially in mid-March during spring break. The Slickrock Trail alone has been known to attract more than 150,000 riders per year.
If you’ve never biked on slickrock or in the desert, here are a few basic guidelines. Take care if venturing off a trail—it’s a long way down some of the sheer cliff faces. A trail’s steep slopes and sharp turns can be tricky, so a helmet is a must. Knee pads and riding gloves also protect from scrapes and bruises. Fat bald tires work best on the rock; partially deflated knobby tires do almost as well. Carry plenty of water—one gallon in summer, half a gallon in cooler months. Tiny plant associations, which live in fragile cryptobiotic soil, don’t want you tearing through their homes; stay on the rock and avoid sandy areas.
Dozens of trails thread through the Moab area; one good place for beginners to start is on the Intrepid trail system at Dead Horse Point State Park. Descriptions of several local trails follow.
The interconnected loops and spur trails here form a trail system with several options that are especially good for beginners or riders who are new to slickrock.
The seven-mile Bar-M loop is easy and makes a good family ride, although you might share the packed-dirt trail with motor vehicles; try Circle O (no motor vehicles) for a good three-mile initiation to slickrock riding.
More experienced slickrock cyclists can find some challenges on the Deadman’s Ridge, Long Branch, and Killer-B routes at the southern end of the trail system.
To reach the trailhead for all these rides, head about eight miles north of town on U.S. 191 to the Bar M Chuckwagon, and park at the south end of their private lot.
Undulating slickrock in the Sand Flats Recreation Area just east of Moab challenges even the best mountain bike riders; this is not an area in which to learn riding skills. Originally, motorcyclists laid out this route, although now most riders rely on leg and lung power. The 1.7-mile practice loop near the trail’s beginning allows first-time visitors a chance to get a feel for the slickrock. The “trail” consists only of painted white lines. Riders following it have less chance of getting lost or finding themselves in hazardous areas. Plan on about five hours to do the 10.5-mile main loop, and expect to do some walking.
Side trails lead to viewpoints overlooking Moab, the Colorado River, and arms of Negro Bill Canyon. Panoramas of the surrounding canyon country and the La Sal Mountains add to the pleasure of biking.
To reach the trailhead from Main Street in Moab, turn east and go 0.4 miles on 300 South, turn right and go 0.1 miles on 400 East, turn left (east) and go 0.5 miles on Mill Creek Drive, then turn left and go 2.5 miles on Sand Flats Road. The Sand Flats Recreation Area, where the trail is located, charges $5 for an automobile day pass, $2 for a bicycle or motorcycle. Camping ($10) is available, but there is no water.
Farther up Sand Flats Road, the quite challenging, often rock-strewn Porcupine Rim Trail draws motorcyclists, jeeps, and mountain bikers; after about 11 miles, the trail becomes single-track, and four-wheelers drop out. The whole trail is about 15 miles long.
This 14-mile one-way trail passes tremendous twin rock arches (the bridges) and the slickrock fins of the Wingate Formation, making this one of the most scenic of the trails in the Moab area; it’s also one of the more moderate trails in terms of necessary skill and fitness. The trail begins 12.5 miles up Highway 313, just before the turnoff to Dead Horse Point State Park. It’s a stiff 21-mile uphill ride from Moab to reach the trailhead, so you may want to consider a shuttle. Several companies, including Coyote Shuttle (435/260-2097, $20), provide this service, enabling cyclist to concentrate on the fun, mostly downhill ride back toward Moab. The Gemini Bridges Trail, which is shared with motorcycles and 4WD vehicles, ends on U.S. 191 just north of town.
Mountain bikers, including novices, should bring their rides to Dead Horse Point, where the Intrepid Trail System offers about 15 miles of slickrock and sand single-track trails in three loops that range from a one-mile beginner’s loop to a more challenging nine-mile loop. All routes start at the visitors center and have great views into the canyon country. To reach Dead Horse Point State Park (435/259-2614, $10) from Moab, take U.S. 191 nine miles north, then turn west on Highway 313 and follow it 23 miles to the park entrance.
A good introduction to the varied terrains of the Moab area, the 13.2-mile Monitor and Merrimac Trail also includes a trip to a dinosaur fossil bed. The trail climbs through open desert and up Usher Canyon, then explores red sandstone towers and buttes across slickrock before dropping down Mill Canyon. At the base of the canyon, you can leave your bike and hike the Mill Canyon Dinosaur Trail before completing the loop to the parking area. Reach the trailhead by traveling 15 miles north of Moab on U.S. 191 and turning west (left) onto Mill Canyon Road, just past mile marker 141.
Not every bike trail here is over slickrock; the challenging single-track Sovereign trail is good to ride in hot weather. The trail, which contains rocky technical sections, a bit of slickrock, and more flowing single track, is shared with motorcycles. Several trailheads access this trail; a popular one is from Willow Springs Road. From Moab, travel 11 miles north on U.S. 191 and turn right onto Willow Springs Road, following this sandy road 2.5 miles to the trailhead. To best see the options, pick up a map at a local bike store.
Mountain bikers have linked a 142-mile series of back roads, paved roads, and bike trails through the magical canyons of eastern Utah and western Colorado. The trail is usually ridden from east to west, starting in Loma, Colorado, and passing Rabbit Valley, Cisco Boat Landing, Dewey Bridge, Fisher Valley, and Castle Valley before landing on Sand Flats Road in Moab. Lots of optional routes, access points, and campsites allow for many possibilities. This multiday trip requires a significant amount of advance planning; Bikerpelli Sports (www.bikerpelli.com) is a good place to start this process.
Although the Moab area is great for biking, riding along busy U.S. 191 is no fun. The recently completed Moab Canyon Pathway starts at the Colorado River bridge at the north end of town and closely parallels the highway north to Arches National Park. From the entrance to the park, the path, which is separated from the road, continues north, climbing to the junction of Highways 191 and 313, the road to Dead Horse Point State Park and Canyonlands’ Island in the Sky district. From this intersection, the bike path is on a relatively wide shoulder; it’s a 35-mile ride to Canyonlands’ Grand View Point, or a mere 24-mile uphill chug to Dead Horse Point.
The paved route provides easy cycling access to the MOAB Brand mountain bike trails just off U.S. 191 and a more challenging ride to the Intrepid trails in Dead Horse Point State Park and the Gemini Bridges trail, which starts just outside the park.
Most of the bicycle rental shops in Moab offer day-long mountain bike excursions, while outfitters offer multiday tours that vary in price depending on the difficulty of the trail and the degree of comfort involved. The charge for these trips is usually around $200-250 per day, including food and shuttles. Be sure to inquire whether rates include bike rental.
Rim Tours (1233 S. U.S. 191, 435/259-5223 or 800/626-7335, www.rimtours.com) is a well-established local company offering several half-day (around $85 pp for 2-3 cyclists), full-day (around $120 pp for 2-3 cyclists), and multiday trips. Magpie Cycling (800/546-4245, magpieadventures.com) is a small local business that runs day trips that include instruction on mountain biking techniques and overnight rides, mostly in Canyonlands, including a four-day tour of the White Rim Trail ($875).
Western Spirit Cycling (478 Mill Creek Dr., 435/259-8732 or 800/845-2453, www.westernspirit.com) offers mountain and road bike tours in the western United States, with about one-third of them in Utah. Moab-area trips include the White Rim, the Maze, and the Kokopelli Trail (5 days, $1,200). Another Moab-based company with tours all over the West is Escape Adventures (Moab Cyclery, 391 S. Main St., 435/259-7423 or 800/596-2953, www.escapeadventures.com), which leads multiday mountain bike trips, including one into the remote Maze section of Canyonlands National Park (5 days, $1,270); some of the tours combine cycling with rafting, climbing, and hiking.
Rim Cyclery (94 W. 100 N., 435/259-5333 or 888/304-8219, www.rimcyclery.com, 9am-6pm daily) is Moab’s oldest bike and outdoor gear store, offering both road and mountain bike sales, rentals, and service. Mountain bike rentals are also available at Poison Spider Bicycles (497 N. Main St., 435/259-7882 or 800/635-1792, www.poisonspiderbicycles.com, 8am-7pm daily spring and fall, 9am-6pm daily winter and summer) and Chile Pepper (702 S. Main St., 435/259-4688 or 888/677-4688, www.chilebikes.com, 8am-6pm daily Mar.-Nov., 9am-5pm daily Dec.-Feb.). Moab Cyclery (391 S. Main St., 435/259-7423 or 800/559-1978, www.moabcyclery.com, 8am-6pm daily) offers rentals, tours, shuttles, and gear. Expect to pay about $45-70 per day to rent a mountain bike, a little less for a road bike.
Several of the Moab area’s best mountain bike trails are essentially one-way, and unless you want to cycle back the way you came, you’ll need to arrange a shuttle service to pick you up and bring you back to Moab or your vehicle. Also, if you don’t have a vehicle or a bike rack, you will need to use a shuttle service to get to more distant trailheads. Coyote Shuttle (435/260-2097, www.coyoteshuttle.com) and Roadrunner Shuttle (435/260-2724, www.roadrunnershuttle.com) both operate shuttle services; depending on distance, the usual fare is $15-25 pp. Both companies also shuttle hikers to trailheads and pick up rafters.
Colorado River Canyon, just outside Moab
Even a visitor with a tight schedule can get out and enjoy the canyon country on rafts and other watercraft. Outfitters offer both laid-back and exhilarating day trips, which usually require little advance planning. Longer multiday trips include gentle canoe paddles along the placid Green River and thrilling expeditions down the Colorado River.
You’ll need to reserve well in advance for most of the longer trips because the BLM and the National Park Service limit trips through the backcountry, and space, especially in high season, is at a premium. Experienced rafters can also plan their own unguided trips, although you’ll need a permit for all areas except for the day-long Fisher Towers float upstream from Moab.
The rafting season runs April-September, and jet-boat tours run February-November. Most do-it-yourself river-runners obtain their permits by applying in January-February for a March drawing; the Moab Information Center’s BLM ranger can advise on this process and provide the latest information about available cancellations.
For most of the following trips, full-day rates include lunch and beverages, while part-day trips include just lemonade and soft drinks. On overnight trips you’ll sleep in tents in backcountry campgrounds.
The Colorado River offers several exciting options. The most popular day run near Moab starts upstream near Fisher Towers and bounces through several moderate rapids on the way back to town. Full-day raft trips (about $65 pp adults) run from Fisher Towers to near Moab. Half-day trips ($45-50 pp adults) run over much the same stretch of river but don’t include lunch.
For a more adventurous rafting trip, the Colorado’s rugged Westwater Canyon offers lots of white water and several class III-IV rapids near the Utah-Colorado border. These long day trips are more expensive, typically around $160-170 per day. The Westwater Canyon is also often offered as part of multiday adventure packages. The Dolores River joins the Colorado about two miles upstream from Dewey Bridge, near the Colorado border. The Dolores River offers exciting white water in a narrow canyon during the spring runoff; the season is short, though, and the river is too low to run by mid-June. With plenty of class III-IV rapids, this 32-mile trip usually takes 2-5 days and costs around $325-975 pp.
The Cataract Canyon section of the Colorado River, which begins south of the river’s confluence with the Green River and extends to the backwater of Lake Powell, usually requires four days of rafting to complete. However, if you’re in a hurry, some outfitters offer time-saving trips that motor rather than float through placid water and slow down only to shoot rapids, enabling these trips to conclude in as little as two days. This is the wildest white water in the Moab area, with big boiling class III-IV rapids. Costs range $600-1,200, depending on what kind of craft, the number of days, and whether you fly, hike, or drive out at the end of the trip.
The Green River also offers class II-III rafting and canoeing opportunities, although they are milder than those on the Colorado. Trips on the Green make good family outings. Most trips require five days, leaving from the town of Green River and taking out at Mineral Bottom, just before Canyonlands National Park. Highlights of the Green River include Labyrinth Canyon and Bowknot Bend. Costs range $650-900 for a five-day rafting trip.
The class II-III Fisher Towers section of the Colorado River is gentle enough for amateur rafters to negotiate on their own. A popular one-day raft trip with mild rapids begins from the Hittle Bottom Recreation Site (Hwy. 128, 23.5 miles north of Moab, near Fisher Towers) and ends 14 river miles downstream at Take-out Beach (Hwy. 128, 10.3 miles north of U.S. 191). You can rent rafts and the mandatory life jackets in Moab, but you won’t need a permit on this section of river.
Experienced white-water rafters can obtain permits from the BLM’s Westwater Ranger Station (82 E. Dogwood Ave., 435/259-7012, www.blm.gov, 8am-noon Mon.-Fri.) up to two months prior to launch date. Don’t show up at the office expecting to get a same-day or next-day permit; it’s important to plan well in advance. The usual put-in is at the Westwater ranger station nine miles south of I-70’s exit 227; another option is the Loma boat launch in Colorado. A start at Loma adds a day or two to the trip along with the sights of Horsethief and Ruby Canyons. Normal takeout is at Cisco, although it’s possible to continue 16 miles on slow-moving water through open country to Dewey Bridge.
Canyon Voyages (211 N. Main St., 435/259-6007 or 800/733-6007, www.canyonvoyages.com) and Navtec Expeditions (321 N. Main St., 435/259-7983 or 800/833-1278, www.navtec.com) are two local rafting companies that rent rafts (from $60 per day) and kayaks (about $35 per day) for those who would rather organize their own river adventures.
Moab is full of river-trip companies, and most offer a variety of day and multiday trips; in addition, many will combine raft trips with biking, horseback riding, hiking, or 4WD excursions. Check out the many websites at www.discovermoab.com/tour.htm. The following list includes major outfitters offering a variety of rafting options. Most lead trips to the main river destinations on the Colorado and Green Rivers as well as other rivers in Utah and the West. Red River Adventures runs trips in smaller self-paddled rafts and inflatable kayaks. Inquire about natural history or petroglyph tours if these specialty trips interest you.
• Adrift Adventures (378 N. Main St., 435/259-8594 or 800/874-4483, www.adrift.net)
• Canyon Voyages (211 N. Main St., 435/259-6007 or 800/733-6007, www.canyonvoyages.com)
• Navtec Expeditions (321 N. Main St., 435/259-7983 or 800/833-1278, www.navtec.com)
• Red River Adventures (1140 S. Main St., 435/259-4046 or 877/259-4046, www.redriveradventures.com)
• Sheri Griffith Expeditions (503/259-8229 or 800/332-2439, www.griffithexp.com)
• Tag-A-Long Expeditions (452 N. Main St., 435/259-8946 or 800/453-3292, www.tagalong.com)
• Western River Expeditions (225 S. Main St., 435/259-7019 or 866/904-1163, www.westernriver.com)
Canoeists can also sample the calm waters of the Green River on multiday excursions with Moab Rafting and Canoe Company (805 N. Main St., 435/259-7722, www.moab-rafting.com), which runs scheduled guided trips (about $150 pp per day) to four sections of the Green and to calmer stretches of the Colorado River. They also rent canoes (around $35 per day), including the necessary equipment.
Another good source for DIY canoe and kayak trips on the Green is Tex’s Riverways (435/259-5101 or 877/662-2839, www.texsriverways.com), which specializes in rentals, shuttles, and support for self-guided trips.
Guided jet-boat excursions through Canyonlands National Park start at around $75 for a half-day trip. Tag-A-Long Expeditions (452 N. Main St., 435/259-8946 or 800/453-3292, www.tagalong.com) and Adrift Adventures (378 N. Main St., 435/259-8594 or 800/874-4483, www.adrift.net) both offer half-day trips and full-day combination jet boat-jeep excursions.
Canyonlands by Night & Day (435/259-5261 or 800/394-9978, www.canyonlandsbynight.com, Apr.-mid-Oct., $65 adults, $55 ages 4-12) tours leave at sunset in an open motorboat and go several miles upstream on the Colorado River; a guide points out canyon features. The sound and light show begins on the way back; music and historic narration accompany the play of lights on the canyon walls. Package tours with chuckwagon dinners are available. Reservations are a good idea because the boat fills up fast. Daytime jet-boat tours ($80 adults, $70 children) are longer—about four hours—and go a little farther. Trips depart from the Spanish mission-style office just north of Moab, across the Colorado River.
Road tours offer visitors a special opportunity to view unique canyon-country arches and spires, indigenous rock art, and wildlife. An interpretive brochure at the Moab Information Center (25 E. Center St., at Main St., 435/259-8825 or 800/635-6622, www.discovermoab.com) outlines the Moab Area Rock Art Auto Tour, which routes motorists to petroglyphs tucked away behind golf courses and ranches. You might also pick up a map of Moab-area 4WD trails: four rugged 15-54-mile loop routes through the desert that take 2.5-4 hours to drive. Those who left their trusty four-by-fours and off-road-driving skills at home can take an off-road jeep tour with a private operator. Most Moab outfitters offer jeep or Hummer tours, often in combination with rafting or hiking options. The Moab Adventure Center (452 N. Main St., 435/259-7019 or 888/622-4097, www.moabadventurecenter.com) runs two-hour ($81 adults, $49 youths) and half-day ($169 adults, $122 youths) guided Hummer safaris. The Adventure Center, which can book you on any number of trips, can also arrange jeep rentals (from $180 per day).
Four-wheeling and outlandish art both find homes in Moab.
Jeep and other 4WD-vehicle rentals are available at a multitude of Moab outfits, including Farabee Jeep Rentals (35 Grand Ave., 435/259-74944 or 877/970-5337, www.moabjeeprentals.com), Canyonlands Jeep Adventures (225 S. Main St., 435/259-4412, www.canyonlandsjeep.com), and Cliffhanger Jeep Rentals (40 W. Center St., 435/259-0889, www.cliffhangerjeeprental.com). Expect to pay from $180 per day.
As an alternative to four-by-four touring in the backcountry, there’s all-terrain vehicle (ATV) and motorcycle “dirt biking,” typically but not exclusively geared toward youngsters and families. Although youths ages 8-15 may operate an ATV, provided they possess an Education Certificate issued by Utah State Parks and Recreation or an equivalent certificate from their home state, parents should research ATV safety before agreeing to such an outing. Much of the public land surrounding Moab is open to ATV exploration, with many miles of unpaved roads and existing trails on which ATVs can travel. However, ATV and dirt bike riding is not allowed within either Arches or Canyonlands National Park.
One particularly popular area for ATVs is White Wash Sand Dunes, with many miles of dirt roads in a strikingly scenic location. It is 48 miles northwest of Moab, reached by driving 13 miles south from I-70’s exit 175, just east of Green River. The dunes are interspersed with large cottonwood trees and bordered by red sandstone cliffs. In addition to the dunes, White Wash is a popular route around three sides of the dunes.
ATVs and dirt bikes are available from a number of Moab-area outfitters, including High Point Hummer (281 N. Main St., 435/259-2972 or 877/486-6833, www.highpointhummer.com) and Moab Tour Company (543 N. Main St., 435/259-4080 or 877/725-7317, www.moabtourcompany.us). A half-day dirt bike or ATV rental starts at around $150.
You’ll have a bird’s-eye view of southeastern Utah’s incredible landscape from Moab’s Canyonlands Field with Redtail Aviation (435/259-7421 or 800/842-9251, www.redtailaviation.com). Flights (minimum 2 people, $165 pp) include Canyonlands National Park’s Needles, Island in the Sky, and Maze Districts. Longer tours are also available, and flights operate year-round. A 3.5-hour tour (minimum 4 people, $435 pp) over Canyonlands, Natural Bridges, Lake Powell, and the Capitol Reef area includes a stop for lunch (extra cost) at the Marble Canyon Lodge.
If you think the Arches and Canyonlands area looks dramatic from an airplane, imagine the excitement of parachuting into the desert landscape. Skydive Moab (Canyonlands Fields Airport, U.S. 191, 16 miles north of Moab, 435/259-5867, www.skydivemoab.com) offers jumps for both first-time and experienced skydivers. First-timers receive 30 minutes of ground schooling, followed by a half-hour flight before a tandem parachute jump with an instructor from 10,000 feet. A tandem skydive, including instruction and equipment, starts at $215. For experienced skydivers with their own equipment, jumps start at $18; equipment and parachutes are available for rent.
Just outside town, the cliffs along Highway 279 and Fisher Towers attract rock climbers. For world-class crack climbing, head south to Indian Creek, near the Needles District of Canyonlands National Park.
Moab has a couple of stores with rock climbing gear and informative staff: Gearheads (471 S. Main St., 435/259-4327) and Pagan Mountaineering (59 S. Main St., 435/259-1117, www.paganclimber.com). The friendly folks at Pagan also offer a climbing guide service to the local rock. Moab Desert Adventures (415 N. Main St., 435/260-2404 or 877/765-6622, www.moabdesertadventures.com) offers rock climbing and canyoneering lessons, both for beginners and experienced climbers; families are welcome. A half day of climbing instruction is $165 pp; rates are lower for groups of 2-3 students.
Head up the Colorado River to Red Cliffs Lodge (milepost 14, Hwy. 128, 435/259-2002 or 866/812-2002, www.redcliffslodge.com) for guided trail rides amid the dramatic scenery of Castle Valley. Half-day rides are $80 pp; children must be at least eight years old, and an adult must accompany children. Riders must weigh less than 220 pounds. Several tour operators, including Adrift Adventures (378 N. Main St., 435/259-8594 or 800/874-4483, www.adrift.net) and the Moab Adventure Center (225 S. Main St., 435/259-7019 or 866/904-1163, www.moabadventurecenter.com), offer horseback rides in conjunction with rafting, hiking, and jeep exploration.
The Moab Golf Club (2705 SE Bench Rd., 435/259-6488, www.moabcountryclub.com/golf, $47) is an 18-hole par-72 public course in a well-watered oasis amid stunning red-rock formations. To get here from Moab, go south five miles on U.S. 191, turn left on Spanish Trail Road, follow it two miles; then go right on Murphy Lane, and follow it to Bench Road and the golf course.
The city park (181 W. 400 N.) has shaded picnic tables and a playground. It’s also home to the Moab Recreation and Aquatic Center (374 Park Ave., 435/259-8226), a new community center with indoor and outdoor swimming pools, a weight room, and group exercise classes.
Two miles north of town, Lions Park (U.S. 191 and Hwy. 128) offers picnicking along the Colorado River, although ongoing bridge construction makes it less than peaceful. Rotary Park (Mill Creek Dr.) is family-oriented and has lots of activities for kids.
For a town of its size, Moab puts on a pretty good nightlife show, with lots of young hikers, bikers, and rafters reliving their daily conquests in bars and brewpubs. There are also notable seasonal music events, ranging from folk to classical.
A lot of Moab’s nightlife focuses on the rowdy and well-loved Eddie McStiff’s (57 S. Main St., 435/259-2337, www.eddiemcstiffs.com, 11:30am-close daily), right downtown, with 12 handcrafted beers on draft, two outdoor seating areas, and live music several times a week. Although the Moab Brewery (686 S. Main St., 435/259-6333, www.themoabbrewery.com) brews on the premises and is a pleasant place to sample good beer, it is more a restaurant than a bar.
Woody’s Tavern (221 S. Main St., 435/259-9323) has live bands on the weekend—you might hear bluegrass, roots rock, reggae, or jam bands.
Come for some barbecue and stay for the blues (or vice versa; both are good) at Blu Pig (811 S. Main St., 435/259-3333). Another restaurant with a lively bar scene is Buck’s Grill House (1393 U.S. 191, 435/259-5201); they bring in bands a couple of times a week.
For a more family-friendly evening out, consider the Bar M Chuckwagon’s Live Western Show and Cowboy Supper (7000 N. U.S. 191, 435/259-2276, http://barmchuckwagon.com, hours vary), a kind of Western-themed dinner theater that includes mock gunfights, live country music, and other Old West entertainment in addition to a chuckwagon buffet dinner.
Another longtime tradition for evening entertainment is Canyonlands by Night (435/259-5261, www.canyonlandsbynight.com), a cruise on the Colorado River that ends with a sound-and-light presentation along the sandstone cliffs. Dinner packages are available; children under age four are not permitted, per Coast Guard regulations.
For a selection of movies, head for Slickrock Cinemas (580 Kane Creek Blvd., 435/259-4441).
To find out about local happenings, contact the Moab Information Center (25 E. Center St., at Main St., 435/259-8825 or 800/635-6622, www.discovermoab.com) or browse Moab Happenings, available free around town or online (www.moabhappenings.com). Unsurprisingly, Moab offers quite a few annual biking events. The Moab Skinny Tire Festival, held the first week of March, and the Moab Century Tour, held in September, are both supported road bike events that benefit the Lance Armstrong Foundation. For information on both, visit www.skinnytirefestival.com or call 435/259-3193. The mountain bike endurance race event 24 Hours of Moab (www.grannygear.com/Races/Moab), held in early October, pits four-person relay teams against the rugged terrain of the Behind the Rocks area. This is one of North America’s major events for mountain bikers, bringing more than 500 teams and 5,000 spectators to Moab.
Moab’s old downtown
Other major annual athletic events include the Canyonlands Half Marathon and Five Mile Run (www.moabhalfmarathon.org), held the third Saturday in March. A women’s half marathon, the Thelma and Louise Half Marathon, run in May, is organized by the same group.
Moab’s most popular annual event, more popular than anything celebrating two wheels, is the Easter Jeep Safari (www.rr4w.com), which is the Sturgis or Daytona Beach of recreational four-wheeling. Upward of 2,000 4WD vehicles (it’s not exclusively for jeeps, although ATVs are not allowed) converge on Moab for a week’s worth of organized backcountry trail rides. “Big Saturday” (the day before Easter) is the climax of the event, when all participating vehicles parade through Moab. Plan well ahead for lodging if you are planning to visit Moab during this event, as hotel rooms are often booked a year in advance.
Memorial Day weekend brings artists, musicians, and art cars to the city park for the Moab Arts Festival (435/259-2742, www.moabarts-festival.org).
The dust is kicked up at the Spanish Trail Arena (3641 S. U.S. 191, just south of Moab) with the professional Canyonlands PRCA Rodeo, held the first weekend in June, with a rodeo, a parade, a dance, horse racing, and a 4-H gymkhana.
The Moab Music Festival (435/259-7003, www.moabmusicfest.org) is first and foremost a classical chamber music festival, but every year a few jazz, bluegrass, or folk artists are included in the lineup. More than 30 artists are currently involved in the festival, held the first two weeks of September. Many of the concerts are held in dramatic outdoor settings. The Moab Folk Festival (www.moabfolkfestival.com) is the town’s other big annual musical event, attracting top-notch acoustic performers to Moab the first weekend of November.
Main Street, between 200 North and 200 South, has nearly a dozen galleries and gift shops with T-shirts, outdoor apparel, Native American art, and other gifts. Back of Beyond Books (83 N. Main St., 435/259-5154) features an excellent selection of regional books and maps. Pick up those missing camping items at Gearheads (471 S. Main St., 435/259-4327, 8am-10pm daily spring-fall, shorter hours winter), an amazingly well-stocked outdoor store. If you’re heading out to camp or hike in the desert, Gearheads is a good place to fill your water jugs with free filtered water.
Moab’s largest grocery store, City Market (425 S. Main St., 435/259-5181, 6am-11pm daily), is a good place to pick up supplies; it has a pharmacy and a gas station.
Stop by the Moonflower Market (39 E. 100 N., 435/259-5712, 9am-8pm daily) for natural-food groceries; it’s a well-stocked store.
Moab has been a tourism destination for generations and offers a wide variety of lodging choices, ranging from older motels to new upscale resorts. U.S. 191 is lined with all the usual chain motels, but we tend to go for the smaller local operations, and that’s mostly what you’ll find listed here.
Moab/Canyonlands Central Reservations (435/259-5125 or 800/505-5343, www.moabutahlodging.com) can make bookings at area vacation homes, which include some relatively inexpensive apartments. Another handy tool is www.moab-utah.com, which has a complete listing of lodging websites for the Moab area.
The only time Moab isn’t busy is in the dead of winter, November-February. At all other times, be sure to make reservations well in advance. Summer room rates are listed here; in winter rates typically drop 40 percent.
The Lazy Lizard Hostel (1213 S. U.S. 191, 435/259-6057, www.lazylizardhostel.com) costs just $10 for simple dorm-style accommodations. To stay at this casual classic Moab lodging, you won’t need a hostel membership, and all guests share access to a hot tub, a kitchen, a barbecue, a coin-operated laundry, and a common room with cable TV. Showers for nonguests ($3) and private guest rooms ($26) are also offered. Log cabins can sleep two ($34) to six ($48) people. The Lazy Lizard is one mile south of town, behind A-1 Storage; the turnoff is about 200 yards south of Moab Lanes.
There’s nothing fancy about the Red Rock Lodge Motel (51 N. 100 W., 435/259-5431 or 877/253-5431, www.red-rocklodge.com, from $60), but it has a great location, pet-friendly guest rooms with fridges and coffeemakers, a hot tub, and a locked bicycle storage facility.
A simple but quite adequate place is the Bowen Motel (169 N. Main St., 435/259-7132 or 800/874-5439, www.bowenmotel.com, from $74), a homey motel with an outdoor pool and included continental breakfast. The Bowen offers a variety of room types, including three-bedroom family suites and an 1,800-square-foot three-bedroom house with full kitchen. A couple of older but well-cared-for motels just north of downtown have guest rooms starting at about $75: the Adventure Inn (512 N. Main St., 435/662-2466 or 866/662-2466, www.adventureinnmoab.com) and the Inca Inn (570 N. Main St., 435/259-7261 or 866/462-2466, www.incainn.com).
A reasonably priced motel that’s simple, friendly, and noncorporate is the M Kokopelli Lodge (72 S. 100 E., 435/259-7615 or 888/530-3134, www.kokopellilodge.com, from $76), offering small but colorful pet-friendly guest rooms and a convenient location one block off the main drag. Kokopelli also offers a number of condos on its website if you’re looking for a relatively inexpensive option with multiple beds and full kitchens.
Moab has a few modest but well-kept motels such as the Kokopelli Lodge.
A few blocks south of downtown, the Red Stone Inn (535 S. Main St., 435/259-3500 or 800/772-1972, www.moabredstone.com, from $90) is a one-story, knotty pine-sided motel; all guest rooms have efficiency kitchens. Other amenities include a bicycle maintenance area, a covered patio with a gas barbecue grill, a hot tub, and guest laundry. Motel guests have free access to the hotel pool next door. Pets are permitted only in smoking rooms.
The Red Stone’s sister property, the sprawling Big Horn Lodge (550 S. Main St., 435/259-6171 or 800/325-6171, www.moabbighorn.com, from $99) has similar knotty-pine guest rooms equipped with microwaves and fridges as well as a pool and a steak restaurant. Package deals for a guest room plus jeep tours, raft trips, and other activities are offered.
At the heart of downtown Moab, Best Western Greenwell Motel (105 S. Main St., 435/259-6151 or 800/528-1234, www.bestwesternmoab.com, from $139) has a pool, fitness facilities, an on-premises restaurant, and some kitchenettes.
At the Virginian Motel (70 E. 200 S., 435/259-5951 or 800/261-2063, www.moab-utah.com/virginian, $109), more than half of the guest rooms have kitchenettes, and pets are permitted. During the winter, room rates are less than half the high-season rates.
Eight very long blocks from downtown, on a quiet property that backs on the Mill Creek and Nature Conservancy holdings, is Adobe Abode (778 Kane Creek Blvd., 435/259-7716, www.adobeabodemoab.com, from $139), a B&B-style inn with large guest rooms done up in handsome Southwestern style. The inn also offers a pool table and evening refreshments, a large and tasty breakfast, and a hot tub.
If you want seclusion in a quiet community 18 miles east of Moab, stay at the Castle Valley Inn B&B (424 Amber Lane, Castle Valley, 435/259-6012, www.castlevalleyinn.com, $105-220). The inn adjoins a wildlife refuge in a stunning landscape of red-rock mesas and needle-pointed buttes. You can stay in one of the main house’s five guest rooms or in one of the three bungalows with kitchens. Facilities include a hot tub. To reach Castle Valley Inn, follow Highway 128 east from Moab for 16 miles, turn south, and continue 2.3 miles toward Castle Valley.
The Best Western Canyonlands Inn (16 S. Main St., 435/259-2300 or 800/649-5191, www.canyonlandsinn.com, from $170) is at the heart of Moab, with suites, a pool, a fitness room and spa, a restaurant, and a bike storage area.
One of the most interesting accommodations options in Moab is the M Gonzo Inn (100 W. 200 S., 435/259-2515 or 800/791-4044, www.gonzoinn.com, from $169). With a look somewhere between an adobe inn and a postmodern warehouse, the Gonzo doesn’t try to appear anything but hip. Expect large guest rooms with vibrant colors and modern decor, a pool, and a friendly welcome.
Saddle horses await their riders at Sorrel River Ranch.
Located in a lovely and quiet residential area, the M Sunflower Hill Luxury Inn (185 N. 300 E., 435/259-2974 or 800/662-2786, www.sunflowerhill.com, from $165) offers high-quality accommodations. Choose from a guest room in one of Moab’s original farmhouses, a historic ranch house, or a garden cottage. All 12 guest rooms have private baths, air-conditioning, and queen beds; there are also two suites. Guests share access to an outdoor swimming pool and a hot tub, bike storage, patios, and large gardens. Children over age seven are welcome, and the place is open year-round.
Families or groups might want to rent a condo at Moab Springs Ranch (1266 N. U.S. 191, 435/259-7891 or 888/259-5759, www.moabspringsranch.com, from $274), located on the north end of town on the site of Moab’s oldest ranch. The townhomes have a parklike setting with a swimming pool and a hot tub, and they sleep up to 10.
A cluster of four charming and pet-friendly cottages dubbed 3 Dogs & a Moose (171 and 173 W. Center St., 435/260-1692, www.3dogsandamoosecottages.com) is just off the main drag. The two smaller cottages ($125-175) are perfect for couples, and the larger cottages ($275-285) sleep up to six.
A short drive from Moab along the Colorado River’s red-rock canyon is the region’s premium luxury guest ranch, the M Sorrel River Ranch (Hwy. 128, 17 miles northeast of Moab, 435/259-4642 or 877/317-8244, www.sorrelriver.com, from $399). The ranch sits on 240 acres in one of the most dramatic landscapes in the Moab area—just across the river from Arches National Park and beneath the soaring mesas of Castle Valley. Accommodations are in a series of beautifully furnished wooden lodges, all tastefully fitted with Old West-style furniture. All units have kitchenettes and a patio with a porch swing or back deck overlooking the river; some guest rooms have both. Horseback rides are offered into the arroyos behind the ranch, and kayaks and bicycles are available for rent. The ranch’s restaurant, the River Grill (435/259-4642, 7am-2pm and 6pm-9pm daily Apr.-Oct., 7am-10am and 6pm-9pm daily Nov.-Mar., $28-36), has some of the best views in Utah and an adventurous menu offering everything from blue corn-dusted halibut to grilled elk chops.
Sharing a similar view of the Colorado River and Castle Valley but three miles closer to Moab is the sprawling Red Cliffs Lodge (milepost 14, Hwy. 128, 435/259-2002 or 866/812-2002, www.redcliffslodge.com, from $239), which houses guests in “mini suites” in the main lodge building and in a number of riverside cabins that can sleep up to six ($339). The lodge offers the Cowboy Grill bar and restaurant, horseback rides, and mountain bike rentals and will arrange river raft trips. The lodge is also the headquarters for Castle Creek Winery and the site of the free Moab Museum of Film & Western Heritage, which displays a collection of movie memorabilia from westerns filmed in the area.
Shade trees, an in-town location, and a nice bathhouse make Up the Creek campground a pleasant place to stay.
It’s really easy and comfy to camp at M Up the Creek (210 E. 300 S., 435/260-1888, www.moabupthecreek.com, mid-Mar.-early Nov., $25 for 1 person, $30 for 2, $35 for 3, $5 dogs), a walk-in, tents-only campground tucked into a residential neighborhood near downtown Moab. The shady campground, with a bathhouse and showers, picnic tables, and a few propane grills (campfires are prohibited), is right alongside a bike path.
RV parks cluster at the north and south ends of town. Moab Valley RV Resort (1773 N. U.S. 191, at Hwy. 128, 2 miles north of Moab, 435/259-4469, www.moabvalleyrv.com, $25 tents, from $40 RVs) is open year-round; it has showers, a pool, a playground, and free wireless Internet access. There’s also a selection of cabins (bedding provided, $57-80) available—some are simple sleeping rooms, others have baths and fridges. Pets are allowed only in RVs. Although this place is convenient, it is pretty close to a large ongoing environmental cleanup project involving removal of radioactive mine tailings. Moab KOA (3225 S. U.S. 191, 435/259-6682 or 800/562-0372, http://moabkoa.com, Mar.-Nov., $25 tents, from $65 RVs with hookups, $65-170 cabins), just off the highway four miles south of town, has showers, a laundry room, a store, miniature golf, and a pool.
More convenient to downtown, Canyonlands Campground (555 S. Main St., 435/259-6848 or 800/522-6848, www.canyonlandsrv.com, $26-33 tents, $40-46 RVs, $60-65 cabins) is open year-round; it has showers, a laundry room, a store, a pool, and two-person air-conditioned cabins—bring your own bedding. One mile north of Moab, Slickrock Campground (1301½ N. U.S. 191, 435/259-7660 or 800/448-8873, http://slickrockcampground.com, $25 tents or RVs without hookups, $32-39 with hookups, $52 cabins with air-conditioning and heat but no bath or kitchen) remains open year-round; it has nice sites with some shade as well as showers, a store, an outdoor café, and a pool.
You’ll also find campgrounds farther out at Arches and Canyonlands National Parks, Dead Horse Point State Park, Canyon Rims Recreation Area, and east of town in the cool La Sal Mountains.
There are 26 BLM campgrounds (most $8-12) in the Moab area. Although these spots can’t be reserved, sites are abundant enough that campers are rarely unable to find a spot. The campgrounds are concentrated on the banks of the Colorado River—along Highway 128 toward Castle Valley, along Highway 279 toward the potash factory, and along Kane Creek Road—and at the Sand Flats Recreation Area near the Slickrock Trail. Only a few of these campgrounds can handle large RVs, none have hookups, and few have piped water. For a full list of BLM campground and facilities, visit www.discovermoab.com/campgrounds_blm.htm.
Soak in Dead Horse Point’s spectacular scenery at the park’s Kayenta Campground (reservations 800/322-3770, www.reserveamerica.com, $20 camping, $9 reservations fee), just past the visitors center, which offers sites with water and electric hookups but no showers. The campground nearly always fills up during the main season, so it’s almost essential to reserve well in advance. Winter visitors may camp on the point; no hookups are available, but the restrooms have water.
If you aren’t able to secure a spot inside the park, try the BLM’s Horsethief Campground (no drinking water, $12) on Highway 313 a few miles east of the state park entrance. It has nearly 60 sites, all first-come, first-served, so it’s usually possible to find a site.
Moab has the largest concentration of good restaurants in southern Utah; no matter what else the recreational craze has produced, it has certainly improved the food. Several Moab-area restaurants are closed for vacation in February, so call ahead if you’re visiting in winter.
Food isn’t limited to muffins at M Love Muffin (139 N. Main St., 435/259-6833, www.lovemuffincafe.com, 7am-1pm daily, $6-8), but if you decide to skip the breakfast burritos or insanely tasty red quinoa, the Burple Nurple muffin may be just what you need. While you’re eating breakfast, order a Muffaletta or barbecued tofu sandwich to pack along for lunch.
Another good option for a tasty but healthy breakfast or lunch is M EklectiCafe (352 N. Main St., 435/259-6896, 7am-2:30pm Mon.-Sat., 7am-1pm Sun., $6-9), a charming and busy little café serving delicious organic and vegetarian dishes. For a more traditional breakfast, try the Jailhouse Café (101 N. Main St., 435/259-3900, 7am-noon daily, $7-11), a Moab classic.
Dense, chewy bagels and good sandwiches make the Red Rock Bakery (74 S. Main St., 435/259-5941, 7am-2pm daily) worth a visit.
Two Moab diners have an old-fashioned ambience and really good food. At the Moab Diner & Ice Cream Shoppe (189 S. Main St., 435/259-4006, http://moabdiner.com, 6am-9pm Mon.-Sat., $5-12), the breakfasts are large, with a Southwestern green chili edge to much of the food. The ice cream is delicious. Another spot with great burgers and shakes is M Milt’s Stop & Eat (356 Millcreek Dr., 435/259-7424, www.miltsstopandeat.com, 11am-8pm, $3.50-7)—it’s a local classic, and just the place to stop after a day of biking or hiking.
Unless otherwise noted, each of the following establishments has a full liquor license.
Zax (96 S. Main St., 435/259-6555, www.zaxmoab.com, 6:30am-close daily, $7-13) is a high-volume all-things-to-all-people restaurant in the heart of downtown. If you’re with kids, this might be the ticket for sandwiches, steaks, pasta, pizza, or salad.
The Slickrock Café (5 N. Main St., 435/259-8004, www.slickrockcafe.com, 11am-close daily, $10-27) is another versatile restaurant in a historic building downtown. The Slickrock is a casual place serving a wide range of American standards; large salads ($4-14) are a decent bet.
Check out Miguel’s Baja Grill (51 N. Main St., 435/259-6546, www.miguelsbajagrill.com, 5pm-9pm daily, $10-20) for well-prepared Baja-style seafood, including good fish tacos. It’s a busy place, so make a reservation or be prepared to wait.
Get away from high-volume assembly-line restaurants at Sabaku Sushi (90 E. Center St., 435/259-4455, 5pm-10pm daily, rolls $4-15), which offers surprisingly good sushi in a friendly atmosphere. Arrive at 5pm for the sushi happy hour.
For a Western night out, consider Bar M Chuckwagon Supper (541 S. Mulberry Lane, 435/259-2276, www.barmchuckwagon.com, show starts at 6:30pm Apr.-Oct., days vary by season, beer only, $28 over age 12, $14 ages 4-12, free under age 4), located on the banks of Mill Creek just southeast of town. Tasty cowboy-style cooking is served up from chuckwagons, followed by a variety of live Western entertainment including mock gunfights and live music.
After a hot day out on the trail, who can blame you for thinking about a cold brew and a hearty meal? Luckily, Moab has two excellent pubs to fill the bill. M Eddie McStiff’s (57 S. Main St., 435/259-2337, www.eddiemcstiffs.com, 11:30am-close daily, $9-19) is an extremely popular place to sip a cool beer or a mojito, eat standard pub food (the pizza is a good bet), and meet other travelers; in good weather there’s seating in a nice courtyard. You’d have to try hard not to have fun here.
There’s more good beer and perhaps better food at the Moab Brewery (686 S. Main St., 435/259-6333, www.themoabbrewery.com, 11:30am-10pm Sun.-Thurs., 11:30am-11pm Fri.-Sat., $8-21), although it doesn’t attract the kind of scene you’ll find at Eddie McStiff’s. The atmosphere is light and airy, and the food is good—steaks, sandwiches, burgers, and a wide selection of salads. Try the spinach salad with smoked salmon ($9) or prime rib ($19). There’s deck seating when weather permits.
The M Desert Bistro (36 S. 100 W., 435/259-0756, www.desertbistro.com, reservations recommended, dinner from 5:30pm Tues.-Sun. Mar.-Nov., $22-50), a longtime favorite for regional fine dining, has moved to a new location in downtown Moab. Its seasonal, sophisticated Southwest-meets-continental cuisine features local meats and game plus fresh fish and seafood. The patio dining is some of the nicest in Moab, and the indoor dining rooms are pretty and peaceful.
Buck’s Grill House (1393 N. U.S. 191, 435/259-5201, www.bucksgrillhouse.com, 5pm-close daily, $9-33) is a steak house with an easygoing Western atmosphere and imaginative refinements on standard steak house fare. Dishes like duck tamales, elk stew with root vegetables, and a vegetarian meatless loaf are excellent.
Jeffrey’s Steakhouse (218 N. 100 W., 435/259-3588, www.jeffreyssteakhouse.com, 5pm-close daily, $22-40), tucked off the main drag in an elegantly renovated small house with an upstairs bar, is about as classy and upscale as you’ll find in Moab, with a small menu of steaks, chicken, lamb, and salmon.
The River Grill (Sorrel River Ranch, Hwy. 128, 17 miles northeast of Moab, 435/259-4642, www.sorrelriver.com, 7am-2pm and 6pm-9pm daily Apr.-Oct., 7am-10am and 6pm-9pm daily Nov.-Mar., $28-36) has a lovely dining room that overlooks spires of red rock and the dramatic cliffs of the Colorado River. The scenery is hard to top, and the food is good, with a focus on prime beef and continental specialties. Dinner reservations are strongly recommended.
The Sunset Grill (900 N. U.S. 191, 435/259-7146, www.moab-utah.com/sunsetgrill, 5pm-close Mon.-Sat., $14-24) is located in uranium king Charlie Steen’s mansion, situated high above Moab, with million-dollar sweeping views of the valley. Choose from steaks, fresh seafood, and a selection of pasta dishes—what you’ll remember is the road up here and the view.
Moab is a small town, and people are generally friendly. Between the excellent Moab Information Center (25 E. Center St., at Main St., 435/259-8825 or 800/635-6622, www.discovermoab.com) and the county library—and the friendly advice of people in the street—you’ll find it easy to assemble all the information you need to have a fine stay.
The Moab Information Center (25 E. Center St., at Main St., 435/259-8825 or 800/635-6622, www.discovermoab.com, 8am-8pm Mon.-Sat. and 9am-7pm Apr.-Sept., reduced hours Mon.-Sat. Oct.-Mar.) is the place to start for nearly all local and area information. The National Park Service, the BLM, the U.S. Forest Service, the Grand County Travel Council, and the Canyonlands Natural History Association are all represented here. Visitors who need help from any of these agencies should start at the information center rather than at the agency offices. Free literature is available, the selection of books and maps for sale is large, and the staff is knowledgeable. The center’s website is also well organized and packed with information.
The BLM district office (82 E. Dogwood Ave., 435/259-2100, 7:45am-4:30pm Mon.-Fri.) is on the south side of town behind Comfort Suites. Some land-use maps are sold here, and this is the place to pick up river-running permits.
The Grand County Public Library (257 E. Center St., 435/259-1111, 9am-8pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat.) is a good place for local history and general reading.
The post office (50 E. 100 N., 435/259-7427) is downtown. Moab Regional Hospital (450 W. Williams Way, 435/719-3500) provides medical care. For ambulance, sheriff, police, or fire emergencies, dial 911.
Great Lakes Airlines (800/554-5111, www.greatlakesav.com) provides daily scheduled air service between Canyonlands Field (CNY, U.S. 191, 16 miles north of Moab, 435/259-4849) and Denver. Grand Junction, Colorado, is 120 miles east of Moab via I-70 and has better air service; Salt Lake City is 240 miles northwest of Moab.
Moab Luxury Coach (435/940-4212, www.moabluxurycoach.com) runs SUVs and buses between Moab and Salt Lake City ($149 one-way); advance reservations are required. Red Rock Express (435/260-0595, www.redrockexpress.com) has SUV shuttles between Moab and the Grand Junction, Colorado, airport ($100).
Enterprise (711 S. Main St., 435/259-8505, www.enterprise.com) rents cars at the airport.