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While you might escape to Montjuïc or the Collserola hills for the air, there’s no beating the city’s green lung, Parc de la Ciutadella (open daily 10am until dusk), for a break from the downtown bustle. Though the park holds a full set of attractions, on lazy summer days you may simply want to stroll along the garden paths and row lazily across the ornamental lake. The name of the park recalls a Bourbon citadel which used to occupy the site, the building of which caused the brutal destruction of a great part of La Ribera neighbourhood. This symbol of authority survived uneasily until 1869; after this the area was made into a park. It was subsequently chosen as the site of the 1888 Universal Exhibition, from which period dates a series of eye-catching buildings and monuments by the city’s pioneering modernista architects.

Arc de Triomf

A giant brick arch announces the architectural splendours to come in the park itself. Conceived as a bold statement of Catalan intent, it’s studded with ceramic figures and motifs and topped by two pairs of bulbous domes. The reliefs on the main facade show the City of Barcelona welcoming visitors to the 1888 Universal Exhibition, held in the park to the south. Connecting the arch to the park is a gorgeous promenade flanked by linden and palm trees and ornate lamp posts. Just before the park’s entrance on Passeig de Pujades stands the monument to Francisco de Paula Rius i Taulet, the four-time mayor of Barcelona credited with helping bring the Universal Exhibition to the city.

Cascada

The first of the major projects undertaken inside the park was the Cascada, the monumental fountain in the northeast corner. It was designed by Josep Fontseré i Mestrès, the architect chosen to oversee the conversion of the former citadel grounds into a park, and his assistant was the young Antoni Gaudí, then a student. The Baroque extravagance of the Cascada is suggestive of the flamboyant decoration that was later to become Gaudí’s trademark. The best place to contemplate the fountain is from the small open-air café-kiosk. Near here you’ll also find a small lake, where you can rent a rowing boat and paddle about among the ducks.

Hivernacle and Umbracle

The two unsung glories of Ciutadella are its plant houses, arranged either side of the Museu Martorell. The larger Hivernacle (conservatory) features enclosed greenhouses separated by a soaring glass-roofed terrace. If anything, the Umbracle (palmhouse) is even more imposing, with a vaulted wood-slat roof supported by cast-iron pillars, which allows shafts of light to play across the assembled palms and ferns. Traditionally, there’s always been a café-bar in the Hivernacle, set among the plants and trees, though it was closed at the time of writing while restoration work continued on the building.

Museu de Ciències Naturals

The city’s Natural Science Museum has its public showcase, the Museu Blau, over at the Diagonal Mar Fòrum site, but its genesis lies in two interesting buildings in Ciutadella park that are currently undergoing major renovation (and will be for some time). The Neoclassical Museu Martorell, which opened in 1882, was actually the first public museum to be built in the city, designed by leading architect of the day Antoni Rovira i Trias. For decades this housed the city’s geological collections; the new permanent exhibition here willconcentrate on the development of the natural sciences in Barcelona. The other building has always been a city favourite, a whimsical red-brick confection that was long the zoology museum. It’s universally known as the Castell dels Tres Dragons (Three Dragons Castle), designed by modernista architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner and originally intended for use as the café-restaurant for the 1888 Universal Exhibition. It’s going to become the research, study and conservation centre for the Natural Science Museum’s geology and zoology collections, and will be known as the Laboratori de Natura (Laboratory of Nature).

Parc Zoològic

C/de Wellington

Ciutadella-Vila Olímpica

902 457 545,

zoobarcelona.com. Daily: Jan–mid-March & late Oct–Dec 10am–5.30pm; mid-March–mid-May & mid-Sept–late Oct 10am–7pm; mid-May–mid-Sept 10am–8pm. €21.40.

Ciutadella’s most popular attraction by far is the city zoo, which takes up most of the southeastern part of the park (main entrance on C/Wellington, signposted from

Ciutadella-Vila Olímpica). It boasts more than 2000 animals from over 400 different species – which is seen by some as too many for a zoo that is still essentially nineteenth century in character, confined to the formal grounds of a public park. Nonetheless it’s hugely popular with families, as there are mini-train and pony rides, a petting zoo and daily dolphin shows alongside the main animal attractions. The many endangered species on show include the Iberian wolf, and big cats such as the Sri Lankan leopard, snow leopard and the Sumatran tiger. The zoo’s days in its current form are numbered: over the next few years parts of it will be completely remodelled as it attempts to expand its facilities and modernize.

Restaurants and tapas bars

Kai Xuan

MAP

C/Roger de Flor 74 Arc de Triomf 932 450 359, kaixuan.es. Daily 9am–midnight.

Forget the Raval’s so-called Barrio Xino, the city’s real Chinatown is in the streets near this family restaurant. Specializing in hand-pulled lamian noodles and featuring a buffet of astonishing value (€6), Kai Xuan fills up fast every day with Chinese people and in-the-know locals.

Picnic

MAP.

C/Comerç 1 Arc de Triomf 935 116 661, picnic-restaurant.com. Mon 10.30am–4.30pm, Tue & Wed 10.30am–4.30pm & 7pm–2am, Thu & Fri 10.30am–4.30pm & 7pm–2am, Sat 10.30am–2am, Sun 10.30am–5pm.

Just a short stroll from the park, this lovely little spot serves classic brunch food such as eggs Benedict, pancakes and French toast, plus more creative dishes like duck hash and fried green tomatoes (brunch Fri–Sun; €5.50–14). The dinner menu focuses on tapas, with offerings that include oysters in tempura, grilled kangaroo and Myanmar pickled tea-leaf salad. There’s also a weekday lunch menu (Tue–Thu; from €12), as well as thirst-quenching drinks such as the refreshingly tart pink lemonade.

Bar

Inercia Classic

MAP.

Pg. Picasso 20 Barceloneta 933 107 207. Daily 10am–7pm.

During the summer heat, a cold drink on the shaded terrassa – which sits under the arcaded walkway of Passeig de Picasso across from the park – is just the ticket. It’s a great spot to start the evening before diving into Born’s vibrant nightlife.

Club

Magic

MAP.

Pg. Picasso 40 Barceloneta 933 107 267magic-club.net. Thu–Sat 11pm–6am.

A Barcelona classic that’s been rocking out since the mid-1970s. While first and foremost a rock ’n’ roll club, Magic doesn’t take itself too seriously. The usual suspects (Ramones, AC/DC and Iggy Pop) are played alongside hits from the likes of the Beastie Boys, the Violent Femmes and more.