Wallachia

Ploiesti

Targoviste

Pitesti

Curtea de Arges

Craiova

Drobeta-Turnu Severin

Wallachia

Why Go?

Wallachia (Ţara Românească), the region between the Carpathians and the Danube River, admittedly lacks the must-sees of Transylvania and Moldavia. Nevertheless, it's rich in early Romanian history, particularly at the historic seats of the Wallachian princes in Curtea de Argeş and Târgovişte. This was Wallachian prince Vlad Ţepeş’ old stomping ground, and north of Curtea de Argeş stands the ruins of what many consider to be the real 'Dracula’s castle'. Lovers of modern sculpture will want to see Constantin Brâncuşi’s work on open-air display in Târgu Jiu, close to the region of his birth.

The Danube flows along the southern edge of Wallachia and is best seen west of Drobeta-Turnu Severin, where it breaks through the Carpathians at the legendary Iron Gates. Drobeta-Turnu Severin was once a thriving Roman colony, and you can still see the remains of Emperor Trajan’s mighty bridge (AD 103) that once traversed the Danube.

When to Go

AMay Spring flowers cover the mountain highlands north of Curtea de Argeş.

AJun–Aug Warm summer afternoons are ideal for cruising the Danube near Iron Gates National Park.

ASep & Oct Regional cultural hubs like Craiova reawaken after a long summer slumber.

Best Places to Eat

A Epoca

A Domnesc

A Hanul Domnesc

A Taverna Dionysos

A La Tuciuri

Best Places to Sleep

A Pensiunea Ruxi

A Hotel Corona

A Pensiunea Casa Simoni

A La Strada

A Hotel Europa

Wallachia Highlights

1 Poienari Citadel Appreciating the misery of captured Turks as you gasp up 1480 steps to Vlad Ţepeş’ ‘Dracula’s Castle’.

2 Princely Court Gaping at original 14th-century frescoes at the court's St Nicholas Church in Curtea de Argeş.

3 Endless Column Enjoying the simple perfection of Constantin Brâncuşi’s sculptures, including this structure in Târgu Jiu, near the place of his birth.

4 Iron Gates National Park Admiring the dramatic beauty of the Danube as it breaks through the Carpathians west of Drobeta-Turnu Severin.

5 Iron Gates Museum Wondering at the ruins of a Roman bridge that spanned the Danube here almost 2000 years ago.

6 Târgovişte Reliving contemporary history at the modest army base in Târgovişte, where Nicolae Ceauşescu and his wife met their bloody ends.

History

The principality of Wallachia was founded by Radu Negru in 1290. It was originally conceived as a vassal state of the Hungarian kingdom to serve as a buffer between Hungary and the growing influence of the Ottoman Turks.

As Hungarian power waned in the 13th and 14th centuries after a wave of Mongol invasions, Wallachian Prince Basarab I (r 1310–52) defeated Hungarian King Charles I in 1330 and declared Wallachia to be independent. The region is considered to be the first of the three main Romanian lands to gain independence.

The 14th century was a golden age for the Wallachian princes, who established their first capital at Câmpulung Muscel, before moving on to Curtea de Argeş and Târgovişte. To this day, you can see the remains of once-grand Princely Courts in Curtea de Argeş and Târgovişte. Eventually, the Wallachian capital moved to Bucharest.

After the fall of Bulgaria to the Turks in 1396, Wallachia faced a new threat, and in 1415 Mircea cel Bătrân (Mircea the Old; r 1386–1418) was forced to acknowledge Turkish suzerainty. Other Wallachian princes, such as Vlad Ţepeş (r 1448, 1456–62, 1476) and Mihai Viteazul (r 1593–1601), became national heroes by defying the Turks and refusing to pay tribute.

Vlad Ţepeş’ legendary disposition and gruesome tactics against the Turks served as inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula, four centuries on, although the author located the ‘Prince of Darkness’ in Transylvania. He remains an undisputed hero in these parts. Look for the big bust of 'Dracula' in Târgovişte and the remains of one of his real castles in Poienari, north of Curtea de Argeş.

In 1859 Wallachia was united with the province of Moldavia, paving the way for the modern Romanian state.

Ploieşti

Pop 209,945

Ploieşti, the main city in the Prahova region, is the centre of Romania's oil production and ranks as one of the country's most important industrial cities. It's had an oil-refining industry since 1857 and this is a source of enormous pride for its inhabitants. That said, it's not a leading destination for visitors, and your main reason for coming is likely to be practical – the city sits at the centre of the country's rail network, with excellent connections to both Bucharest and Braşov. There are several good hotels and restaurants and some decent museums to pass the time.

Ploieşti

1Sights

1Art MuseumC3

2Cathedral of St John the BaptistA1

3Clock MuseumC3

4Museum of OilC2

5SynagogueC1

4Sleeping

6Hotel CentralB2

7Hotel Prahova PlazaC2

5Eating

8BulevardC3

9Central MarketB1

10Sport Pub DorofteiB2

6Drinking & Nightlife

11Dublin PubB2

1Sights

Clock MuseumMUSEUM

(Muzeul Ceasului; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0244-542 861; Str Nicolae Simachei 1; 8 lei; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

The city’s unique Clock Museum has a collection of historical timepieces owned by several famous Romanians, including King Carol I, and an 18th-century rococo Austrian clock that belonged to Wallachian prince Alexandru Ioan Cuza. There's also a small collection of vintage gramophones.

Museum of OilMUSEUM

(Muzeul Naţional al Petrolului; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0244-597 585; Str Dr Bagdasar 8; 5 lei; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

This modest museum highlights the important role of oil in the economic development of both the city and the country, especially in the 19th century when Romania was a petroleum pioneer. The technical nature of the displays will likely not appeal to all.

Art MuseumMUSEUM

(Muzeul de Artă; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0244-522 264; www.artmuseum.ro; B-dul Independenţei 1; adult/child 8/2 lei; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

The collection at this art museum, housed in a grand Empire-style mansion, is strong on Romanian greats from the 19th and early 20th centuries.

SynagogueSYNAGOGUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Basarab 12)

Ploieşti’s synagogue dates from 1901 and was lavishly restored in 2007. It's not open to the public, but there's a good view of the exterior from the street.

Cathedral of St John the BaptistCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; B-dul Republicii; h8am-6pm)

Ploieşti's impressive cathedral dates from the early 19th century. The 55m bell tower, visible from around the city, was finished in 1939 as a memorial to Romanian soldiers who fought in WWI.

4Sleeping

Ploieşti is geared for business travel and has several decent three- and four-star hotels. There's a group of cheaper pensions north of the city, along B-dul Republicii, about 3km north of the centre and 4km north of the Southern Train Station.

oPensiunea Casa SimoniPENSION$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0745-010 310; www.pensiunea-casa-simoni.ro; B-dul Republicii 224; s/d 120/140 lei; nai)

This beautifully maintained, family-owned pension is one of the best-value options in town, with only one drawback: it's about 4km north of the centre. Rooms are clean and spacious, with terraces looking out over the front of the property. Though the address is B-dul Republicii, the pension is located 200m off the main road, on an unmarked road (look for the sign).

Hotel NordHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0244-516 774; www.nordhotelploiesti.com; Sos Vestului 31; s 130-200 lei, d 160-240 lei; pnaW)

There's nothing fancy here at this boxy business hotel 2km northwest of the centre, but the rooms are clean and good value. The Nord has two- and three-star rooms, which aren't much different, except the latter have air-conditioning.

Hotel CentralHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0244-526 641; www.thr.ro; B-dul Republicii 1; s 220-360 lei, d 320-420 lei; pnaiW)

This beautifully restored landmark hotel sits in the dead centre of town. It offers both three- and four-star rooms, though there is not really much of a difference in quality. Some of the cheaper three-stars come without air-conditioning.

Hotel Prahova PlazaHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0244-526 850; www.hotelprahova.ro; Str C-tin Dobrogeanu Gherea 11; r 350-400 lei; pnaiW)

This communist-era hulk has been given a thorough makeover into one of the city's nicest business hotels, and prices have been adjusted upwards accordingly. Rooms are divided into 'economy' and 'deluxe', with the latter being larger and with updated furnishings. The location couldn’t be better, just a couple of minutes’ walk from the central square.

5Eating & Drinking

Stock up on fruit, bread and cheese for your train journey at the monster-sized central market (Halele Centrale; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; B-dul Unirii; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat).

oTaverna DionysosGREEK$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0244-338 835; Str Anul 1907 2; mains 30-40 lei; h10.30am-11pm)

One of the most popular restaurants in Ploieşti, Dionysos offers very good, authentic Greek food, including excellent grills and fresh fish, in a lively party atmosphere. The owner is Greek and takes special pride in the food. Dine on the terrace in summer.

BulevardROMANIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0723-617 654; Str Goleşti 25; mains 25-40 lei; h8am-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2am Sat & Sun; W)

This attractive restaurant is located within easy walking distance of the Clock Museum and other major sights. The eclectic menu is strong on Romanian cuisine, with the addition of a long list of grilled meats and fish. There's a classy dining room and an elegant summer terrace.

Sport Pub DorofteiPUB FOOD$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0244-544 112; Piaţa Victoriei 4; mains 20-30 lei; h11am-1am; W)

Don’t be put off by the name, this ‘sports’ pub has great food and a fun 2nd-floor terrace that overlooks Piaţa Victoriei. After dinner, it does double duty as, well, a sports pub.

Dublin PubPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0726-352 089; B-dul Republicii 19; h10am-11.30pm; W)

A popular spot to grab a beer (although there's no Irish beer, despite the name) or occasionally see some live music or even stand-up comedy. The location is smack in the centre, an easy walk from the Hotel Central.

8Information

There’s no tourist information office in Ploieşti.

There are banks and ATMs all around the centre, with most on the main drag of B-dul Republicii and Piaţa Victoriei.

Banca Transilvania ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.bancatransilvania.ro; B-dul Republicii 15; hMon-Fri 9am-5pm) Convenient full-service bank and ATM close to the centre.

Post OfficePOST

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piaţa Victoriei 10; h7am-1pm & 1.30-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat)

The central post office is located on Piaţa Victoriei, just south of the Hotel Central following B-dul Republicii.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Ploieşti has several bus stations. The main station is the southern bus station (Autogara Sud; GOOGLE MAP ; %0244-522 230; www.autogari.ro; Str Depoului 9-11), 200m west of the southern train station. From here, you can catch buses to Bucharest (16 lei, one hour, several daily), Câmpina (6 lei, 30 minutes, eight daily) and Târgovişte (10 lei, 90 minutes, seven daily). For other destinations, consult the website www.autogari.ro.

Train

The city has two main passenger train stations, so always ask which station your train departs from. Many domestic trains, including those to Bucovina and Moldavia, leave from the southern train station (Gara de Sud; GOOGLE MAP ; %0244-594 799; www.cfr.ro; Strada Depoului). For trips to Transylvania and international destinations such as Budapest and Vienna, use the western train station (Gara de Vest; GOOGLE MAP ; %0244-557 191; www.cfr.ro; Str Domnișori 95). Bucharest trains arrive at and depart from either station, so consult the timetable.

Destinations for fast Inter-City trains include Bucharest (20 lei, 45 minutes, 15 daily), Braşov (35 lei, two hours, 10 daily) and Cluj-Napoca (100 lei, eight hours, two daily).

WORTH A TRIP

THE NICOLAE GRIGORESCU MUSEUM, CâMPINA

If you’ve visited the art museums in Bucharest, Constanţa or Ploieşti, you’ve likely developed a taste for the talented and underrated (at least outside of Romania) 19th-century painter Nicolae Grigorescu (1838–1907). Best known locally for his starkly beautiful landscapes, his work ranges from portraiture to reportage (he was a war painter in the Romanian War of Independence). Grigorescu studied in Paris with Pierre Auguste Renoir and his later works were highly innovative, anticipating more modern styles, such as Impressionism, that were well in vogue by the end of his life.

The Nicolae Grigorescu Museum (Muzeul Nicolae Grigorescu; GOOGLE MAP ; %0244-335 598; http://grigorescu.artmuseum.ro; B-dul Carol I 166, Câmpina; adult/child 8/2 lei; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) is a modest tribute to the painter’s life, with collections on two floors in a traditional wooden village house where he lived during the last seven years of his life.

From Ploieşti’s southern bus station there are several daily buses to Câmpina, 32km north of Ploieşti. There are also daily trains from Ploieşti’s western station to Câmpina.

Târgovişte

Pop 79,600

The small city of Târgovişte, 50km northwest of Bucharest, has played an outsized role in Romanian history. It served as the royal capital of Wallachia from 1418 until well into the 16th century, when the capital was moved to Bucharest. The ruins of the former royal court remain the town’s leading attraction. During the 15th century, Vlad Ţepeş, of impaler fame, held princely court here. In more recent times, the city made international headlines as the site where dictator Nicolae Ceauşescu and his wife, Elena, were executed on Christmas Day, 1989.

1Sights

oMilitary BarracksMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; B-dul Carol I 48; adult/child 7/3.50 lei; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

This small, spare museum just outside the train station contains the military barracks where former Romanian dictator Nicolae Ceauşescu and his wife Elena were tried and executed by firing squad on Christmas Day in 1989. Three rooms are open, showing where the trial took place and where the couple spent their last nights. Outside in the back, visitors can see the wall where the couple were shot. There's helpful signage in English and the modest setting adds to the powerful effect.

Before entering, take a moment to read the large bulletin board outside, which explains in detail the dramatic and terrifying days in December 1989 that lead to Ceauşescu's downfall and execution. The Târgovişte location was purely coincidental: when the couple fled Bucharest, they were captured near the city and brought here because the military barracks were well fortified.

Princely CourtMUSEUM, RUINS

(Curtea Domnească; GOOGLE MAP ; %0245-613 946; www.muzee-dambovitene.ro; Calea Domnească 181; adult/child 10/5 lei; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun)

The Princely Court was built in the 14th century for Mircea cel Bătrân (Mircea the Old) and remained a formal residence for Wallachia’s princes, including Vlad Ţepeş, until the reign of Constantin Brâncoveanu (r 1688–1714). Much of the court lies in ruin, though the 27m-high Sunset Tower (Turnul Chindiei) – the symbol of the city – has a museum exhibition. Another highlight is the cathedral.

Just north of the Sunset Tower is a lovely park for strolling. Each of the Wallachian princes gets his own bust here, but the biggest prize is reserved for Vlad Ţepeş, who merits a big, suitably dramatic statue in the centre of the park – a great photo op.

ZooZOO

(Grădina Zoologică; GOOGLE MAP ; %0245-616 558; www.zootargoviste.ro; Zona Calea Domnească, Parcul Chindia; adult/child 7/4 lei; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, 10am-4pm Tue-Sun Oct-Apr; c)

Târgovişte's small zoo, in the park just north of the Princely Court, is surprisingly comprehensive, with some large cats, a hippo, lots of chimps and a variety of other animals. The zoo shows obvious signs of wear and tear, but the animals appear adequately cared for. Kids will love how close you can come to the animals.

Târgu ChurchCHURCH

(Biserica Târgului; GOOGLE MAP ; Str Ion Rădulescu; h8am-6pm)

Near the restaurants on Str Alexandru Ioan Cuza is the beautiful, partially frescoed Târgu Church. Dating to 1654, it was painted during the 17th and 18th centuries, but destroyed during an earthquake in 1940. Extensive renovations followed in 1941 and in the 1970s, and were still ongoing at the time of research. The church is especially pretty when lit at night.

CathedralCHURCH

(Catedrala Metropolitana; GOOGLE MAP ; B-dul Mircea cel Bătrân; h8am-7pm)F

Târgovişte's main church occupies a prominent position in the town's central Parcul Mitropoliei. The church is built of red brick in Byzantine style and dates from the early 20th century.

Museum of Printing & Old Romanian BooksMUSEUM

(Muzeul Tiparului şi al Cărţii Româneşti Vechi; GOOGLE MAP ; %0245-613 946; www.muzee-dambovitene.ro; Str Calea Domnească 181; 5 lei; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

Housed in a 17th-century palace built by Constantin Brâncoveanu for his daughter Safta, this museum is filled with original books from the beginning of Romania’s printing age and manuscripts by 17th- and 18th-century Romanian writers.

4Sleeping

There are a couple of acceptable hotels in town, but Târgovişte generally lacks decent places to stay.

Pensiunea ChindiaPENSION$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0726-355 514; www.cazaretargoviste.ro; Calea Domenască 200; s/d/tr 70/80/120 lei; pnW)

A good-value pension located directly across the street from the entrance to the Princely Court.

Hotel DâmboviţaHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0245-213 370; www.hoteldambovita.ro; B-dul Libertăţii 1; s/d 130/170 lei; paiW)

If you’re going to spend the night in Târgovişte, make it here, the nicest place in town. While the modern high-rise building doesn't look encouraging from the outside, the rooms are clean and quiet; some have balconies with views overlooking the central park. Breakfast (included in the room price) is served à la carte, a welcome relief from tired buffet spreads.

5Eating

Most of the best restaurants as well as a dozen cafes and bars are clustered along Str Alexandru Ioan Cuza in the historic centre.

Bistro AlexoPIZZA$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0732-125 396; Calea Domenască 179; pizza 16-20 lei; h9am-11pm; W)

The inviting garden terrace is a welcome spot for coffee or pizza before or after a visit to the nearby Princely Court. The salads are enormous; one is enough for the whole table. They also serve good espresso.

oQueen's CornerROMANIAN$$

(Belvedere; GOOGLE MAP ; Str Alexandru Ioan Cuza 22a; mains 25-40 lei; h11am-midnight; W)

Grab an upper-level terrace table overlooking the pedestrian street and enjoy excellent Romanian and international dishes, including well-executed grilled meats and steaks. They also have very good wood-fired pizzas and a menu page of traditional Romanian dishes. The wine list is the best in town, but service can be slow.

San MarcoITALIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0723-363 635; Str Alexandru Ioan Cuza 22; mains 25-40 lei; h10am-11pm; W)

Arguably the most attractive of several restaurants along the city's small pedestrianised strip. The focus here is pasta, risotto, pizza and salad, and there's a decent wine list on hand. There are several outside tables and a warm, inviting dining room inside.

8Information

There is no tourist information office. The Hotel Dâmboviţa stocks city maps.

Arena InternetINTERNET

( GOOGLE MAP ; B-dul Independenţiei 2-4; per hr 2.50 lei; h7am-10pm; W)

Banca Comercială RomânăBANK

(BCR; GOOGLE MAP ; B-dul Independenţiei 6; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)

Full-service bank with a row of ATMs in the centre of town on the eastern end of the large central park.

Central Post OfficePOST

( GOOGLE MAP ; Str Dr Marinoiu 2; h7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat)

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Târgovişte has several bus stations. The main bus station (Autogara; GOOGLE MAP ; www.autogari.ro; Str Gării) is located 2km south of the city centre and about 200m northwest of the train station. Buses to Bucharest (15 lei, two hours, five daily) depart from here.

Buses to Ploieşti (10 lei, one hour, several daily) leave from a small stop at Str Tudor Vladimirescu 86, about 200m south of the central Parcul Mitropoliei.

Buses to Braşov (27 lei, three hours, five daily) leave from a stop at B-dul Eroilor 38, about 1km north of the Princely Court.

For other destinations, check www.autogari.ro.

Train

Târgovişte's sleepy train station (Gara Târgovişte; GOOGLE MAP ; www.cfr.ro; Piața Gării) is 2km south of the city centre, at the end of B-dul Carol I. There are regular departures throughout the day to Bucharest Nord (10 lei, two hours, four daily). For other destinations, you're better off taking the bus.

Piteşti

Pop 164,380

Piteşti is a pleasant, medium-sized city with a pretty, pedestrianised centre lined with cafes, bars and a handful of decent hotels. If you’re planning an overnight stay in this neck of the woods it’s a strong candidate – not so much for the sights (they are strictly second-tier), but for the energy and lively atmosphere.

1Sights

The city's pride and joy is an enormous stretch of green that runs west of the centre called Trivale Park.

Art MuseumMUSEUM

(Rudolf Schweitzer Cumpăna Art Gallery; GOOGLE MAP ; %0248-212 561; www.muzeul-judetean-arges.ro; B-dul Republicii 33; adult/child 5/2 lei; h9am-5pm Wed-Sun)

This central museum showcases the best of modern and contemporary Romanian art, including works from Nicolae Grigorescu, Nicolae Tonitza and other luminaries of the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

Princely ChurchCHURCH

(Biserica Domnească; GOOGLE MAP ; www.bisericadomneascapitesti.ro; Str Victoriei; h8am-6pm)

The unusual St George’s Church (Biserica Sfântul Gheorghe), more commonly known as the Princely Church, was built by Prince Constantin Şerban and his wife Princess Bălasa between 1654 and 1658. The church is located on the southern end of Str Victoriei, about 200m south of the Hotel Argeş.

Piteşti Prison MemorialMONUMENT

( GOOGLE MAP ; Str Negru Vodă 32; h24hr)

A modest memorial marks the spot where the city's notorious prison once stood and where insidious mind-control experiments were carried out in the late 1940s and early '50s. The main memorial is a tiled column; nearby is a map of other detention and extermination sites around Romania. It's a 15-minute walk from the centre, heading north on Str Victoriei, which becomes Str Negru Vodă.

4Sleeping

Piteşti draws far more business people than leisure travellers, and accommodation is priced accordingly. Guesthouses can take the sting out of hotel rack rates.

La StoriaGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0723-889 819; http://la-storia.ro; Str Plevnei 8; r 120 lei; W)

La Storia is a godsend for travellers on a budget in a city with few low-cost sleeping options. There are 10 clean and simply furnished rooms here, offering excellent value given the central location. There's a quiet backyard garden for coffee and light meals.

oLa StradaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0732-763 107; www.lastradapitesti.ro; B-dul Republicii 63; s/d 220/260 lei; pnai)

La Strada offers a highly tempting mix (especially if you've been travelling through the countryside) of a great location and tastefully contemporary furnishings, though at a slight premium to similar properties in the area. The hotel occupies a smartly renovated 19th-century townhouse, just a couple of minutes' walk from the centre. The terrace restaurant at the back serves good international and Romanian food.

oHotel ArgeşHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0248-223 399; www.hotelarges.ro; Piaţa Muntenia 3; s/d 180/220 lei; paiW)

On the shortlist for the best three-star hotel in the country. Ultra-clean rooms with high-thread-count linens, thick-weave carpets, sparkling baths and a warm reception add up to one of the best deals in the city. The location is dead centre, with the best cafes and restaurants at your doorstep.

5Eating

oLa TuciuriROMANIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0348-415 343; Str Primăverii 11; mains 25-40 lei; h8am-4am)

La Tuciuri is a real find: a traditional Romanian folk restaurant, complete with peasant costumes and music some evenings, that also serves very good food in its own right. Grilled meats are the main event here, and the chef puts out very good mititei (grilled ground beef and pork). The party carries on to the wee hours of the morning.

Garden PubROMANIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0733-956 280; www.gardenpub.ro; Str Victoriei 16; mains 20-40 lei; h10am-5am; W)

This deservedly popular restaurant and pub draws everyone from visiting business people to students on their lunch break for excellent soups, salads and grilled meats and fish. There's a streetside terrace out front, more outdoor seating on the roof, and a handsome dark-wood interior for chilly evenings. Book in advance.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Guinness PubPUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0726-375 619; www.guinnesspub.ro; Str Victoriei 30; mains 15-25 lei; h8.30am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; W)

Guinness Pub is a fun and rowdy drinking option most nights. If you're hungry, there's a full menu of Romanian dishes and grilled meats, too. It's located at the northern end of the pedestrianised part of Str Victoriei.

Cornel Pub & GrillPUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0727-362 426; Str Armand Călinescu 36; h10am-2am Mon-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat, 11am-2am Sun; W)

This relaxed pub and cafe, just a short walk west of the centre, is good for a beer or light meal. There's a terrace out front and a covered bar behind. The late opening hours are a plus.

8Information

There’s no tourist information office, though some hotels stock the small multilingual book Turism in Argeş (20 lei), which has a serviceable map of the city in the front sleeve.

BRDBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0248-211 687; www.brd.ro; Str Victoriei 89; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)

Full-service bank and 24-hour ATM.

Central Post OfficePOST

( GOOGLE MAP ; Str Victoriei; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)

The main post office is a little tricky to find. Walk southeast on Str Victoriei about 30m beyond the Princely Church. The post office building is on the right side. The counters are up one flight.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Piteşti has several bus stations. Many buses, including several bus and maxitaxi departures throughout the day to Bucharest (25 lei, two hours), leave from the Southern Bus Station Targ Vale (Autogară Sud; GOOGLE MAP ; %0248-636 302; www.autogari.ro; Str Targul din Vale 54), about 400m south of the centre. Minibuses to Curtea de Argeş (8 lei, 45 minutes) and other points to the north often leave from the Northern Bus Station (Autogară Nord, Girexim; GOOGLE MAP ; %0248-282 201; Str George Cosbuc 12), about 4km north of the centre. For other destinations consult the website www.autogari.ro.

Train

The main train station is the southern train station (Piteşti Sud; GOOGLE MAP ; %0248-627 908, domestic train information 021-9521; www.cfr.ro; B-dul Republicii). Services include a handful of daily direct trains to Bucharest (30 lei, two hours) and Craiova (35 lei, two hours).

Curtea de Argeş

Pop 26,133

Curtea de Argeş has a humble, likeable charm, enriched by the captivating treasures left over from the town's role as a Wallachian capital in the 14th century. St Nicholas Church in the former Princely Court is a must-see and is considered to be one of the oldest monuments preserved in its original form in the country. The town's storied cathedral, sculpted from white stone, is unique for the important royal tombs it hides and its chocolate-box architecture. In addition, the town is a gateway to the Făgăraş Mountains and just a short bus ride away from the 'real' Dracula's castle (Poienari Citadel).

1Sights

The main sights are located north of the town centre along a long stretch of B-dul Basarabilor. The Princely Court is at the southern end of B-dul Basarabilor, while the monastery complex is 2km to the north.

oPrincely CourtCHURCH, RUIN

(%0248-721 446; Str Negru Vodă 2; adult/child 6/3 lei; h9am-5pm)

Curtea de Argeş was an early capital of Wallachia, and these ruins from the 13th and 14th centuries mark the spot where the court once stood. The main sight is St Nicholas Church, which dates from the time of Basarab I (1310–52). Many of the frescoes are originals and merit close inspection. In the main room to the right, just below the upper window, look for a rare painting of a pregnant Mary dating from 1370.

The church also functioned as a necropolis and holds some 21 burial tombs, including that of early ruler Vladislav I Vlaicu (d 1377). The unmarked tomb in the middle of the main room predates the church by about a century and was found in archaeological digs nearby.

Curtea de Argeş Cathedral & MonasteryMONASTERY

(Mănăstirea Curtea de Argeş; %0248-721 735; B-dul Basarabilor 1; adult/child 2/1 lei; h8am-8pm)

This cathedral and monastery complex is considered one of the country's most important ecclesiastical sights. The church was originally built by Wallachian ruler Neagoe Basarab (r 1512–21), with marble and tiles brought in from Constantinople. The current edifice dates from 1875, when French architect André Lecomte du Nouy was retained to save the complex, which was in near ruins.

The monastery is an important royal mausoleum. The white marble tombstones of King Carol I (1839–1914) and his wife Elizabeth (1853–1916) lie on the right in the church's entrance hall. On the left of the entrance are the tombstones of King Ferdinand I (1865–1927) and British-born Queen Marie (1875–1938). Neagoe Basarab and his wife are also buried here.

4Sleeping

Curtea de Argeş is surprisingly popular and you never know when you might turn up on a specific saint's day, which can bring hundreds of people to town. Therefore it's a good idea to book in advance, particularly in summer.

oPensiunea RuxiPENSION$

(%0727-827 675; www.pensiunea-ruxi.ro; Str Negru Vodă 104; s/d 90/100 lei; pniW)

While the rooms are relatively new and comfortable, the real treat here is the homely atmosphere; the family will go to heart-breaking lengths to make sure you’re taken care of. The only partial drawback is the town-centre location, about 1km from the Princely Court and 2km from the monastery complex. Walk or take a local minibus.

Pensiunea Casa DomneascaPENSION$$

(%0248-721 070; www.casa-domneasca.ro; Str Plopiş 3; s 170-220 lei, d 190-240 lei; pnaWs)

Beautiful four-star pensiune with an elegant reception area and rooms that look like a spread in Town & Country magazine. The standard rates include breakfast; the higher rates include use of the sauna and pool. To find it, make a right at the statue of Basarab I near the Princely Court and follow the street uphill about 100m.

Hotel PosadaHOTEL$$

(%0248-721 451; www.hotelposada.ro; B-dul Basarabilor 27-29; s/d 130/180 lei; pnaW)

Nicely remodelled three-star hotel with a quiet location at the far northern end of B-dul Basarabilor by the monastery complex. Try to get a front room to watch the sunset over the mountains.

5Eating

oDomnescROMANIAN$$

(%0727-364 716; www.restaurantuldomnesc.ro; B-dul Basarabilor 106; mains 20-40 lei; h7am-midnight; W)

This handsome restaurant, with a large terrace, marries the best of clean, modern presentation and traditional food, featuring menu items from the surrounding Argeş region. Choose from a list of sour soups (ciorbă), grilled meats, home-made sausages, and big wedges of polenta (mămăligă). There's folk music and dance on Thursday evenings. Located 20m north of the Princely Court.

Curtea VecheROMANIAN$$

(%0745-994 345; www.curteavechekm0.ro; B-dul Basarabilor 121; mains 20-45 lei; h9am-11pm)

Nicely restored villa with a big rambling porch and a lower-level terrace with comfy pillow seating for lounging. The menu is textbook traditional Romanian; tochitura argeseana is a stewy mix of pork, peppers, onions and an egg, all poured over polenta. Does pretty good pizza too. It's located 30m north of the Princely Court.

8Information

There is no formal tourist information office, though the private travel agency Turism Posada (%0248-721 451; www.posada.ro; B-dul Basarabilor 27-29; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) in the Hotel Posada may be able to answer some basic questions.

Post OfficePOST

(%0248-721 132; Str Despina Doamna 43; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri)

Raiffeisen BankBANK

(B-dul Basarabilor 31; h8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri)

One of several ATM options on B-dul Basarabilor. This one is next to the Hotel Posada, 100m south of the monastery complex.

8Getting There & Away

The main bus station is near the town centre, on a side street about 200m west of Pensiunea Ruxi. Cities served include Bucharest (30 lei, two to three hours, four daily) and Braşov (31 lei, four hours, one daily). Frequent maxitaxis to Arefu (5 lei, 40 minutes) also leave from the main bus station. Other maxitaxis go to and from Piteşti (5.50 lei, 30 minutes) from an unofficial maxitaxi stop in front of the Princely Court entrance.

Rail services have been greatly curtailed and trains are not recommended.

THE 'REAL' DRACULA'S CASTLE

North of Curtea de Argeş the population thins out to a few scattered villages as the highway nears the Carpathians. The highlight of the region is the Poienari Citadel (Cetatea Poienari; Poienari; adult/child 5/2 lei; h9am-6pm Jun-Sep, 9am-5pm May & Oct; p), one of the few castles in Romania that really does have a legitimate connection to the notorious Wallachian prince Vlad Ţepeş (1431–76), aka 'Vlad the Impaler' or, better yet, 'Dracula'.

The Poienari Citadel was once a powerful fortress guarding entry to a strategic pass linking Wallachia with Transylvania. The castle's vantage point was recognised as early as the 13th century, when Wallachian leaders first built a tower to guard the pass. Two centuries later Vlad Ţepeş enlarged the castle, using it as both a fortress and a prison. Legend has it most of the work was carried out by captured Turks.

These days there's not much of the castle left, but it's still worth the short trip from Curtea de Argeş to take in the spectacular setting and to make the invigorating climb (1480 steps) to the top. The entrance to the citadel lies just at the start of the towering Transfăgărășan road, so it's an especially easy stopover if you're planning on crossing the mountains here.

If you’d like to stay the night, the Pensiunea Dracula (%0745-473 381; www.pensiuneadracula.ro; Căpăţânenii 190; r from 140 lei; pW) is a clean and well-run pension, whose owners really get into the Dracula theme. Another good choice is Pensiunea La Cetate (%0744-424 845; www.cabanalacetate.ro; Str Mihail Kogalniceanu 1, Poienari; r 110 lei; paW), just 100m from the steps leading to Dracula’s Castle. There’s a terrace here for lunch or dinner.

The best way to come from Curtea de Argeş is by maxitaxi (5 lei, 40 minutes), signposted to Arefu.

Craiova

Pop 293,500

The university town of Craiova, founded on the site of the ancient Dacian and Roman stronghold of Pelendava, is a regional commercial centre and transport hub. All long-haul trains between Timişoara and Bucharest stop here, so it makes a convenient point to break a long journey. The modern city has greatly cleaned itself up in recent years, and the historic centre, bordered on one end by Romania’s prettiest county prefecture building, is great for a relaxing stroll.

Craiova

1Top Sights

1Art MuseumB2

1Sights

2Ethnographic MuseumA3

3Natural Science MuseumB2

4Sleeping

4Casa DavidB1

5Eating

5PerinițaB3

6Sofia BistroD3

6Drinking & Nightlife

7ChicagoD3

3Entertainment

8Marin Sorescu National TheatreC1

9Oltenia PhilharmonicB2

1Sights

Craiova has a handful of interesting museums, including an art museum with several pieces by early-modern master Constantin Brâncuşi. There are also several churches worth seeking out.

oArt MuseumMUSEUM

(Muzeul de Artă; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0251-412 342; www.muzeuldeartacraiova.ro; Calea Unirii 15; adult/student 10/8 lei; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)

The art museum is the only real must-see in Craiova, both for the art itself, including a small but important collection of six works by internationally renowned sculptor Constantin Brâncuşi, and also for the building that the works are housed in. The early-20th-century Jean Mihail Palace once belonged to Romania's richest industrial family. Over the years it has housed Romanian kings and former Yugoslav leader Josip Broz Tito, and was also home to Polish president-in-exile Ignacy Mościcki in 1939.

Ethnographic MuseumMUSEUM

(Muzeul Olteniei Secţia de Etnografie; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0351-444 030; www.muzeulolteniei.ro; Str Matei Basarab 16; adult/child 5/2.50 lei; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

This is a highly informative, well-organised exhibition of folk traditions in the Oltenia region surrounding Craiova. The exhibition begins downstairs with bread-making and progresses through pottery, tanning, clothing, weaving and folk art. There's little English signage, but there may be someone on hand who speaks some English and can show you around. The setting is the historic Casa Băniei, dating from the 17th century. Recommended.

Natural Science MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0251-411 906; www.muzeulolteniei.ro; Str Popa Şapcă 8; adult/child 5/2.50 lei; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

Small collection on two floors dedicated to the natural sciences. The highlights are fossils on the ground floor that include some massive mammoth tusks. On the upper level are stuffed animals representing the various fauna of the country's regions and climate zones. Very little signage in English limits the appeal.

4Sleeping

Sleep options are limited to a few midrange and top-end hotels that cater mostly to business people.

Hotel MelissHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0351-804 438; www.hotelmeliss.ro; B-dul Carol I 104; s/d 200/240 lei; pnaiW)

This comfy modern, three-star option does a lot of things very well. The rooms are uncluttered, clean and quiet; some have private terraces. The reception is friendly and there's a spa and fitness centre on site. The location is about 200m south of the rail and bus stations, along the road leading into the centre.

Casa DavidHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0251-410 205; www.casadavid.ro; Str Ştefan cel Mare 18a; s/d 220/240 lei; pnaW)

This small four-star pensiune is a step up from the city's hotels in terms of comfort and quality, and also price. The location is good, midway between the train station and the town centre.

Hotel RextonHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0351-462 451; www.hotelrexton.ro; B-dul Carol I 49; s/d 300/350 lei; pnaiW)

One of the city's nicest hotels is this four-star option along the main road between the rail/bus stations and the centre. The classical motifs are a bit over the top, but the rooms themselves are more sleekly furnished, with flat-screen TVs, big comfy beds and quality carpets. It's a 10-minute walk south on B-dul Carol I from the train station.

Minimal parking out front (reserve in advance).

5Eating & Drinking

The centre is filled with cheap fast-food options, such as pizza and shoarma (shawarma) joints.

Sofia BistroINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0730-519 250; ww.sofiabistro.ro; Str Eugeniu Carada 17; mains 25-40 lei; h9am-midnight; W)

This beloved bistro has two personalities: the interior dining room is quiet and refined, while the terrace outside pulsates with loud music. The same kitchen serves a mix of very well done Romanian specialities and international favourites like pasta and risotto. On warm summer nights the terrace gets crowded and service slows to a crawl.

PerinițaROMANIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0251-412 412; www.restaurantperinita.ro; Calea Unirii 24; mains 20-30 lei; h11am-11pm; W)

Very popular open-air restaurant, located in the centre, specialising in traditional Romanian cooking as well as various chicken and pork grills. The grilled meatballs – mititei – are a house speciality and are cooked out front over an open fire. It also has pizzas and salads.

oEpocaSTEAK$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0372-999 000; www.epocarestaurant.ro; Str Alexandru Macedonski 51; mains 40-115 lei; h9am-midnight Mon-Fri; W)

This luxury steakhouse is a must for lovers of high-quality imported beef. The menu is almost exclusively grilled steaks and chops, with the speciality being cuts from Argentina and the US, served on hot plates that allow you to cook it perfectly to your liking. There's a handsome garden in the back.

ChicagoBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0753-060 093; Str Eugeniu Carada 12; h9am-midnight Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat; W)

The shady garden out front and the rooftop terrace are both big draws at this popular cafe and cocktail bar. Fresh lemonades, good coffees and a long list of mixed drinks lure university students in droves. There's also a small bar-food menu of mostly salads and burgers.

3Entertainment

A complete list of what's on can be found at www.craiova.ro/evenimente.

Oltenia PhilharmonicCLASSICAL MUSIC

(Filarmonica Oltenia; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0351-414 697; www.filarmonica-oltenia.ro; Calea Unirii 16; hbox office 10am-2pm Mon, Tue & Thu, 1-5pm Wed, 10am-2pm & 6-9pm Fri)

Classical concerts are performed here by the Oltenia Philharmonic. Buy tickets at the box office.

Marin Sorescu National TheatreTHEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %box office 0251-413 677; www.tncms.ro; Str Alexandru Ioan Cuza 11; hbox office 9am-4pm Mon, 9am-4pm & 4.30-6.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm & 4.30-6.30pm Sat & Sun)

For years, Craiova's main drama venue has enjoyed a national and international reputation for theatre excellence. Peformances are normally in Romanian, though the venue occasionally hosts visiting troupes from other countries. Buy tickets at the theatre box office.

8Information

There’s no tourist information office and local travel agencies are more intent on helping Romanians than with visitors finding their way around town.

BRDBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0251-412 282; Str Mihai Viteazul 2; hMon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat 10am-3pm)

Centrally located bank and ATM.

Central Post OfficePOST

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.posta-romana.ro; Calea Unirii 54; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat)

8Getting There & Away

Bus

The main bus station (Autogara; GOOGLE MAP ; %0251-411 187; www.autogari.ro; B-dul Carol I 1), about 50m to the left as you exit the train station, appears at first glance like utter anarchy but is actually well organised. Regular buses and maxitaxis leave from here to Bucharest (around 50 lei, five hours, hourly). There are also regular bus services to Timişoara (50 lei, seven hours, four daily) and Drobeta-Turnu Severin (20 lei, two hours, several daily), among other cities.

Train

All fast trains between Bucharest and Timişoara stop at Craiova’s train station (Gara Craiova; GOOGLE MAP ; www.cfr.ro; B-dul Carol I, Piața Constantin Brâncuși; g1). Services include trains to Bucharest (60 lei, three hours, 12 daily), Timişoara (70 lei, six hours, seven daily), Drobeta-Turnu Severin (35 lei, two hours) and Târgu Jiu (35 lei, two hours).

WORTH A TRIP

TASTING LOCAL GRAPES IN DRăGășANI

Few visitors would give the town of Drăgășani, halfway between Craiova and Piteşti, a second thought if it weren't for the fact that it's home to some of the country's most innovative new wineries. Several offer tasting packages, usually paired with food.

The wine-producing merits of the region's sunny climate and low-lying hills, worn down through the years by the Olt River, have been appreciated going back centuries. The communist period, though, was not kind to Drăgășani. Many families lost their holdings and quality suffered accordingly.

Now the area is making a comeback, with a half-dozen or so young wineries that mix modern winemaking methods with local, indigenous grapes. The best of these include Avincis ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0350-522 003; www.avincis.ro; Str Valea Caselor 1a; tastings per person without food from 45 lei; hby arrangement), Crama Bauer (%0757-098 940; www.cramabauer.com; Str Dealul Olt; tastings per person with/without food from 210/65 lei; hby arrangement) and Prince Știrbey (%0751-252 272; www.stirbey.com; Str Dealul Olt; tastings per person with/without food from 185/65 lei).

There are only a handful of hotels in town, though Avincis has its own rooms, and other wineries can help find accommodation. Hotel KMZ (%0250-814 093; www.kmz.ro; Str Regele Carol 16; s/d 130/170 lei; paW) is a funky, young-at-heart boutique hotel.

Buses leave hourly for Craiova (14 lei, one hour); at least a couple of buses run to and from Piteşti (20 lei, two hours). There are two direct trains per day between Drăgășani and Bucharest (40 lei, 2½ hours).

Drobeta-Turnu Severin

Pop 20,500

Drobeta-Turnu Severin – usually shortened to 'Severin' in conversation – is on the bank of the Danube River bordering Serbia. Though the modern city was laid out in the 19th century, the town has a rich history stretching back nearly 2000 years, when it was an important Roman colony with a population of some 40,000. It’s best known as the base of Roman emperor Trajan’s colossal bridge across the Danube. You can still see ruins of the bridge as well as part of the Roman town surrounding it.

1Sights

The centre of town is defined by the central park, at the corner of B-dul Carol I and Str Bibicescu. There's a giant, colourful water fountain here that has nightly shows in summer starting around 9pm.

Technology geeks will want to head out of town a short way to take a tour of the Porţile de Fier Hydroelectric Power Plant. This controversial project was a Romanian–Yugoslav joint venture, conceived in 1960 and completed 12 years later. There’s a small museum (Muzeul Porţile de Fier I; Hwy E70; adult/child 5/2 lei; h8am-4pm Tue-Sun) that takes you inside and provides a good idea of the scale of the plant. Guided tours (in Romanian only) go down five levels to the turbines. The museum is located on Hwy E70, 10km west of Drobeta-Turnu Severin.

Iron Gates MuseumMUSEUM

(Muzeul Porţilor de Fier; %0252-312 177; Str Independenţiei 2; adult/student 5/2 lei; h8am-4pm Tue-Sun)

While the museum houses an ethnographic and natural-sciences section, as well as an aquarium displaying Danubian species, the highlight is a scale model of the Roman bridge constructed across the Danube in AD 103 by Greek architect Apollodorus of Damascus on orders of Emperor Trajan (r AD 98–117). The bridge stood just below the site of the present museum, and the ruins (ruinele podului lui Traian) of two of its pillars can still be seen towering beside the Danube.

In its day the bridge was a tremendous feat of engineering and was more than 1100m in length and 15m wide. Nearby, you'll see scattered pieces of rock and debris that were once part of a Roman bath and colony along the banks of the river. The museum is located on the far eastern end of B-dul Carol I.

Water TowerHISTORIC BUILDING

(Castelul de Apă; cnr Str Crisan & Str Dr Saidac; h9am-9pm)F

Severin's most striking building is this massive water tower, dating from 1910. It was one of the first buildings here to use iron in its construction. These days you can walk the 159 steps to the top for views out over the Danube (or take the lift). It's located about six blocks north of B-dul Carol I, following Str Bibicescu.

Medieval Fortress of SeverinRUINS

(Str Portului; hdawn-dusk)F

Just above the port and below the Hotel Continental, these restored ruins mark the spot where the mighty Fortress of Severin once stood. The fort dates from the 11th century and marked the border between the Hungarian Kingdom and the Bulgarian Empire. It was demolished in the 16th century on the orders of the then-ruling Ottoman Turks. There's not much to see now except a very tall tower and the thick walls of this legendary redoubt.

4Sleeping

There are a number of roadside pensiunes, motels and restaurants on the main E70 highway, signposted as Str Tudor Vladimirescu, about 2km north of the town centre.

oHotel CoronaHOTEL$$

(%0743-128 658; www.hotelcorona.ro; Str Tudor Vladimirescu 106a; s/d 150/180 lei; pnaiW)

This clean, smart and well-run hotel occupies a nondescript strip of shops along Hwy E70, but it's set back from the highway so noise is not an issue. The rooms are bright and furnished in contemporary style. The reception is friendly and the restaurant, while lacking atmosphere, serves very good food. It's about 1km northeast of the centre of town.

Hotel ContinentalHOTEL$$

(%0372-528 828, reservations 0372-121 721; www.continentalhotels.ro; B-dul Carol I 2; s/d from 180/200 lei; pnaiW)

This battered-looking high-rise from the 1970s is much nicer on the inside and the location is as good as it gets: on a ridge above the river and within walking distance of the sights. Rooms come in two categories, standard and deluxe, with the latter offering river views and updated furnishings. The reception desk has a local map.

5Eating & Drinking

Along with restaurants on the E70, there's a lively market (Piaţa Mircea; cnr Str Horia & Str Dr Saidac; h6am-9pm Mon-Fri, 7am-2pm Sat & Sun) just east of the town centre where you can buy fresh fruit and vegetables, breads and cheeses.

oTrattoria Il CalcioITALIAN$$

(%0753-118 070; www.trattoriailcalcio.ro; B-dul Tudor Vladimirescu 143; mains 20-30 lei; h11am-midnight; W)

This is the local branch of a Romanian chain of Italian restaurants, but don’t let that deter you. The food and service are excellent. It’s in the new part of town, along the E70 highway in the direction of Craiova, about 1km north of B-dul Carol I, following Str Eminescu.

Taverna SârbuluiBALKAN$$$

(%0727-353 353; www.tavernasarbului.ro; Hwy E70; mains 30-50 lei; h9am-midnight; W)

Located 5km west of Drobeta-Turnu Severin along the main highway in the direction of Orşova, this Serbian-themed restaurant boasts beautiful views of the Danube and a long list of Balkan and Romanian specialities, grilled meats, stews and salads. It's 10 minutes by car from the centre of town; a taxi will run about 15 lei each way.

16,50BAR

(%0774-431 991; www.1650.ro; Str Traian 50; h11am-2am)

About as cool as it gets in sleepy Severin. There’s decent pizza and other nosh on hand, as well as a garden terrace furnished with wrought-iron sofas and chairs covered in big white pillows. Around sunset this place morphs into a fully fledged club-lounge. It's located three blocks north of B-dul Carol I, just west of the Hotel Continental.

WORTH A TRIP

ORşOVA & THE IRON GATES NATIONAL PARK

South and west of Drobeta-Turnu Severin, just below the town of Orşova, the Danube River begins a series of twists and turns between towering rocks that have bedevilled sailors from time immemorial.

The area is protected by the 1150-sq-km Iron Gates National Park (www.portiledefier.ro). A similar protected area, the Djerdap National Park, sits across the river in Serbia. Highlights of the park include miles of rugged, unspoiled riverbanks and a massive stone carving of the former Dacian leader, Decebal (r AD 87–106).

There are several ways to access the park. The most popular is by private boat (Plimbări cu barca; %0722-502 216, 0766-522 815; Orşova Port; per passenger 50 lei; h9am-5pm May-early Oct) along the Danube River. Several boat-rental outfits line the port in Orşova from late May to early October, depending on the weather.

Nearby Drobeta-Turnu Severin has the best selection of sleeping options, though there are a few scattered hotels in Orşova. Pensiunea Oliver (%0726-382 246; www.pensiuneaoliver.ro; B-dul 1 Decembrie 1918 16a, Orșova; d/tr 150/180 lei; paiW) is a small pension with an excellent location right on the port.

There are a couple of passable restaurants in Orşova. Pescăruș Orșova (%0726-434 478; Str Insula Pescăruș 1, Orșova; mains 25-35 lei; h9am-midnight Tue-Sun) is the best choice along the port. It’s a seafood restaurant that offers photo-op views from its riverside terrace.

There’s a regular minibus service to Orşova from Drobeta-Turnu Severin (3 lei, 30 minutes, hourly) as well as at least one train per day (5 lei, 30 minutes), though the Orşova train station is a good 2km hike to/from the centre of town.

8Information

There is no central tourist information office, though there are large city maps posted at intervals around town, particulary along B-dul Carol I. The reception desk at the Hotel Continental has city maps for guests.

BRDBANK

(%0252-316 074; B-dul Carol I 55, cnr Str Rahovei; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri)

One of several banks and ATMs scattered around town; located about two blocks east of the Hotel Continental near B-dul Carol I.

Post OfficePOST

(Str Decebal 41; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat)

The post office is situated one block north of B-dul Carol I, about 50m from the Hotel Continental.

WORTH A TRIP

CONSTANTIN BRâNCUşI ‘IN SITU’ IN TâRGU JIU

The coal-mining town of Târgu Jiu, along the Jiu River in the foothills of the Carpathians, is an unlikely setting for the breathtakingly minimalist, modern sculpture of internationally acclaimed Romanian master Constantin Brâncuşi (1876–1957). Brâncuşi was born near Târgu Jiu and spent his early years here and in nearby Craiova.

In 1935, Brâncuşi was commissioned to create a series of public works to commemorate Romanian soldiers who fought against the Germans in WWI. The works have survived to this day and constitute a unique opportunity to see the master's work in the open air.

The four main works are spread out along Calea Eroilor (Avenue of Heroes) that bisects the centre of town. Three of the works, the Gate of the Kiss, Table of Silence and Alley of Chairs, are clustered in the central park, while a fourth work, the Endless Column (Calea Eroilor; hdawn-dusk), stands at the end of Calea Eroilor, about 1km to the east.

Taken together, the four sculptures constitute arguably the high point of Brâncuşi’s career in the the late 1930s, showing off the artist's mastery of proportion, simplicity and symbolism. Today, works by Brâncuşi fetch as much as €30 million at auction, and the statues are under 24-hour armed guard.

For an overnight, Hotel Europa (%0253-211 810; www.hotelrestauranteuropa.ro; Calea Eroilor 22; s/d 160/200 lei; pnai) is a handsome historic hotel in the centre of the city and within easy walking distance of the Brâncuşi sculptures. Hanul Domnesc (%0755-097 717; Str Victoriei 116; mains 20-30 lei; h11am-11pm) is a good traditional Romanian restaurant.

Buses and maxitaxis connect the city to Timişoara (40 lei, three daily) and Drobeta-Turnu Severin (two daily). There's a regular train service to and from Bucharest (70 lei, five hours, three daily) via Craiova.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Drobeta-Turnu Severin, as with many Romanian towns and cities, has more than one bus and minibus station. Many long-haul buses and minibuses merely service designated stops along the E70. Check details by enquiring at your hotel or consulting the website www.autogari.ro. Buses and minibuses service the entire region, with frequent departures for Orşova (3 lei, 30 minutes) and Timişoara (40 lei, four hours), among other cities.

Train

The train station (Gara; www.cfr.ro; B-dul Dunărea) is located along the Danube River on the extreme western edge of the port, about 2km from the centre of town. On arrival at the station, hike up the steps and turn right (east) on B-dul Carol I to reach the centre or take a taxi (around 8 lei). The city has good train connections to both Bucharest (about 70 lei, five hours, five daily) and Timişoara (60 lei, four hours, four daily). Bucharest-bound trains stop in Craiova (35 lei, two to three hours). There are one or two daily trains to Orşova (5 lei, 25 minutes).