Central Jutland

Central Jutland

17-central-jutland-loc-den8jpg

Why Go?

Easily the largest and most varied of all Danish regions, central Jutland encompasses dramatically different features, from the calm beaches of the sheltered east coast to the wild west coast, battered by North Sea winds. Lying in between, offering visual stimulation among the flatness, are the rolling hills and forests of the Lake District.

The real beauty of this region is that you can skip between themes depending on your mood. Fancy world-class art and top-notch restaurants? Aarhus, Jutland’s main city and Denmark’s second-largest metropolis, can provide. How about Viking history? Set sail for Hobro. Religious history? Off to Jelling. Want to explore the great outdoors? Head for Rold Skov or Silkeborg. Care to tackle nature’s forces? Explore the waters of Hvide Sande. And OK, you’ve suppressed that inner child long enough – make a beeline for Billund and all things Lego (but beware the accompanying pangs of childhood nostalgia).

When to Go

AWarm weather is the key to enjoying much of this region (the beaches, theme parks, festivals, activities), but Aarhus holds year-round appeal. Its museums, cafes and boutiques entertain in all weather, but the city’s bars are quieter in summer, when Aarhus University has its break.

AIf visiting in the shoulder season (May, June, September), it's worth checking when the various safari and amusement parks are open. Legoland, central Jutland's star attraction, is open daily May to August and most days April, September and October (it's closed from early November to March).

ABig-ticket family attractions close in winter, but cultural life steps up, with plenty of live theatre and music. December is rich with Christmas markets, festive hygge (cosiness) and good cheer.

Central Jutland Highlights

1 ARoS Aarhus Kunstmuseum Viewing Aarhus rooftops through rainbow-tinted glass.

2 Aarhus Exploring the top-class sights, then eating superbly and drinking plentifully.

3 Lake District Revelling in the great outdoors on a canoe trip.

4 Billund Marvelling at plastic-fantastic detail at both Legoland and the awesome new Lego House.

5 Hvide Sande Enjoying the wind in your hair – and sails – while learning to windsurf.

6 Jelling Feeling the weight of history at the spiritual home of the Danish royal family.

7 Djursland Hopping between beaches, theme parks and animal parks in prime family holiday turf.

8 Henne Kirkeby Kro Escaping to this acclaimed inn to savour fine local flavours.

17-central-jutland-ch-den8

Central West Coast

The sweeping, windswept coastline of the central west is dotted with small settlements full of camping grounds and holiday houses, catering primarily to German and Danish summer tourists. The fjordside town of Ringkøbing is a pleasant, if unremarkable, place acting as a service centre for the beachside communities – it's connected to the Danish train network and regular buses link it with towns down the coast.

The coast’s most flaunted area is Holmsland Klit, the thin neck of sand and dunes stretching nearly 35km from north to south and separating the North Sea from Ringkøbing Fjord.

Hvide Sande

Pop 3050

Hvide Sande (meaning 'white sands') owes its existence to the wind. Wind caused the sand migration that forced the construction of a lock here in 1931 to assure a North Sea passage for the port of Ringkøbing. And wind continues to be the big drawcard for the large number of tourists who come here to windsurf.

Aside from the wind, it’s all about the fish. Hvide Sande has a busy deep-sea fishing harbour, with trawlers, fish-processing factories and an early morning fish auction. There’s also a small fishing museum/aquarium adjacent to the tourist office. Ask at the tourist office about fishing trips with local anglers, and the fish auctions (held weekly in summer for tourists). There are also summertime boat tours.

2Activities

WestwindWINDSURFING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%97 31 25 99; www.westwind.dk; Gytjevej 15; icon-hoursgifhMay-Oct)

A consistent, howling westerly coupled with both an invitingly safe lake in Ringkøbing Fjord and the wild North Sea make this area ideal for windsurfers of all skill levels. Just north of town, Westwind offers instruction (in English, German or Danish) in surfing, windsurfing, kitesurfing and stand-up paddling (SUP), plus gear rental.

A three-hour introductory windsurfing lesson costs 400kr; a nine-hour course (in three three-hour blocks) costs 995kr – and staff here guarantee you'll be able to windsurf after those nine hours.

Westwind has a second base just south of town, opposite the camping ground.

Kabel ParkWATER SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%28 72 80 00; www.kabelpark.dk; Gytjevej 15B; 1/2hr 180/225kr; icon-hoursgifhApr-Oct)

Next to the northern branch of Westwind (in what’s labelled the 'Aqua Sports Zone') is this entertaining waterpark, where water-skiers and wake-boarders are pulled by cable rope-tow along an 800m-long course, complete with jump-ramps for the experienced. There’s a two-hour intro class for novices (375kr). BYO skis/wake-board and wetsuit, or hire here.

It’s also pretty cool to watch the antics – there’s a cafe here for that purpose.

Vinterlejegaard RidecenterHORSE RIDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%75 28 22 77; www.vinterlejegaard.dk; Vesterledvej 9; 1hr ride 230kr)

Hvide Sande is perfect for viewing a coastal sunset on horseback. Contact this riding centre for details; it’s about 10km south of Hvide Sande and offers one-hour beach rides.

WORTH A TRIP

DANISH DELIGHTS

Tucked away in a scenic, off-the-radar part of west Jutland, about halfway between Esbjerg (40km south) and Hvide Sande (36km north) is Henne Kirkeby, a hamlet that includes the kind of historic countryside inn, Henne Kirkeby Kro ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%75 25 54 00; www.hennekirkebykro.dk; Strandvejen 234, Henne; lunch/dinner menu 595/1250kr; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm Thu-Sat, 6-9.30pm Wed-Sat Apr-Nov), that Copenhagen gourmands will happily travel hours to reach (now joined by global food lovers, especially after the kro (inn) was awarded a Michelin star in 2016).

The accomplished kitchen team is led by Paul Cunningham, a British-born chef who has worked in many of Denmark's best kitchens. Deluxe, design-driven suites here befit the status of destination inn (rooms including breakfast from 1650kr); the menu is a thing of beauty, drawing on the enormous kitchen garden and first-rate local produce. Needless to say: book ahead.

If you're looking for more accommodation options, the beachside resort town of Henne Strand is 4km west of the kro.

4Sleeping

It is a summer-holiday hot spot with plentiful camping grounds including Hvide Sande Camping ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%97 31 12 18; www.hvidesandecamping.dk; Karen Brands Vej 70; per adult/child/site 85/45/45kr; icon-hoursgifhApr-Oct) handily across the road from Westwind's southern base. Feriepartner ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%96 59 35 93; www.feriepartner.dk/hvide-sande; Nørregade 2B) handles numerous apartment, cottage and houseboat rentals, mostly on a weekly basis. The nearest transport hub-town, Ringkøbing (population 10,000), has its own excellent hostel (ROFI-Centret; GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%97 32 24 55; www.rofi.dk; Kirkevej 28; dm 210kr, d without/with bathroom 410/510kr; icon-wifigifW) and a central old hotel.

Danhostel Hvide SandeHOSTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%97 31 21 05; www.danhostel-hvidesande.dk; Numitvej 5; dm 210kr, d without/with bathroom 425/490kr; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Tucked away from the crowds in a side street on the northern side of the channel, this homely hostel offers no-frills rooms (many with bathroom) and access to the nearby sports centre with which it is affiliated.

Hvide Sande HotelHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%97 31 10 33; www.hssh.dk; Bredgade 5; s/d/f from 745/945/1245kr; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

The only hotel in town has fresh, simple rooms (all with bathroom and TV) in an old seamen’s home down at the bustling harbour. Online bookings obtain decent discounts (as low as 645/745kr per single/double).

5Eating

At the harbour (on the south side of the bridge) there’s a supermarket and no shortage of cafes, ice creameries and bakeries competing for holidaymakers’ appetites. A few more options are on Troldbjergsvej, north of the bridge.

icon-top-choiceoNordsø FiskSEAFOOD

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%28 58 75 05; www.facebook.com/nordsofisk; Metheasvej 11; sandwiches 35-45kr; icon-hoursgifh9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun Jul & Aug, shorter hours rest of year)

A proud purveyor of all things fishy, at the harbour. Build your own picnic – bread rolls deliciously stuffed with shrimp, salmon or fiskefrikadeller (fish balls) sell for a bargain 35kr. You can also order fish and chips and sit at outside picnic tables.

Restaurant Under BroenSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%97 31 30 40; www.underbroen.dk; 1st fl, Toldbodgade 20; lunch 94-199kr, dinner mains 124-228kr; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-8.30pm)

Given the prime harbourside location of this elegant dining room and the fishing boats moored just metres away, it doesn’t take a brainiac to know the menu will feature super-fresh seafood options (including prawns, mussels and flounder). The downstairs Cafe Marina has simpler fare at cheaper prices.

8Information

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%70 22 70 01; www.hvidesande.dk; Nørregade 2; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) On the northern side of the channel.

8Getting There & Away

Bus 580 runs between Hvide Sande and Ringkøbing station (40kr, 30 minutes) several times daily. From Ringkøbing buses 15 and 952X link to Herning (90kr, 55 minutes), the 952X continuing 11 times daily to Aarhus (200kr, 2½ hours). For Esbjerg (112kr, 1¾ hours) use trains changing in Skjern.

South-Central Jutland

The landscape of Jutland’s interior ranges from hilly woodland up the middle to rolling fields in the east. Industry is prominent throughout, and there are plenty of medium-sized towns that are pleasant enough places to while away a day, but are not particularly worth going out of your way for (no offence to the towns themselves, mind, but we’re talking about the likes of Fredericia, Vejle and Horsens).

Billund & Legoland

Pop 6200

The attractions of the 'company town' of Billund (built around a little Danish product you might know: Lego) are so geared to families you might feel a little, well, underdressed if you visit without your own set of excited offspring. But don’t let that stop you from embracing your inner child and allocating the wondrous Legoland and awesome new Lego House some generous time in your itinerary.

LEGOLAND PRACTICALITIES

Legoland is no doubt the reason you’re in Billund. To maximise your time, consider buying your tickets online to avoid the queues (you can also buy tickets at most accommodation providers in the area). Note that adult tickets are for those aged 13 and over; infants under two years are free. Seniors over 65 pay the child's price. To enable a cheaper second day at the park, visit a ticket booth with your ticket and pay an additional 129kr. Car parks in the area charge 50kr.

Inside Legoland you’ll find a bank, ATMs, lockers, a baby room, pushchair rental and almost anything else you might need. Do we need to mention there’s a huge, busy Lego shop?

Closing times vary – from 6pm to 9pm. Also worth knowing (and not well publicised) is that the park opens its gates a half-hour before the rides open and no ticket is necessary to enter. Rides normally close one or two hours before the park itself (check the website), so with a bit of luck you could end up with 2½ hours to browse and check out Miniland for free.

1Sights & Activities

icon-top-choiceoLego HouseCULTURAL CENTRE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%82 82 04 00; www.legohouse.com; Ole Kirks Plads 1; Experience Zones ticket 199kr; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-8.30pm most days)

Opened in 2017 in the heart of Billund, Lego House is a hands-on 'experience centre' with a thoroughly brilliant design that resembles a stack of 21 gigantic Lego bricks. It is marketed as the 'Home of the Brick' and incorporates top-quality museum displays of the company's history, plus exhibition areas and rooftop terraces. The ground level (home to eateries and a Lego store) has free public access; access to the Experience Zones requires a prebooked ticket (allocated entry time).

The building is divided into four colour-coded Experience Zones that emphasise Lego's philosophy of learning through play – much planning has gone into these, and the technology is impressive (and super-fun). You can join 20-minute Creative Labs (facilitated by teachers) and build a stop-motion movie, for example. As you explore the zones, note the building's standout central feature: the Tree of Creativity, 15m high and built of 6.3 million Lego bricks.

The building was seven years in the making and is a design from Danish starchitect Bjarke Ingels. It offers a stellar year-round reason to visit Billund (even in winter, when Legoland is closed). Check times and buy tickets online.

icon-top-choiceoLegolandAMUSEMENT PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%75 33 13 33; www.legoland.dk; Nordmarksvej; adult/child 379/359kr; icon-hoursgifh10am-8pm or 9pm Jul–mid-Aug, shorter hours Apr-Jun & mid-Aug–early Nov, closed early Nov-Mar; icon-parkgifpicon-familygifc)

Mind-blowing Lego models, fun rides and the happy-family magic associated with great theme parks have transformed Legoland into Denmark’s most visited tourist attraction outside of Copenhagen. It’s a great day outing (you’ll need a day to do it justice) and it sits smack-bang in the middle of Jutland, 1km north of Billund.

The heart of Legoland is Miniland – 20 million plastic Lego blocks snapped together to create miniature cities and replicate global icons (and re-create scenes from Star Wars movies).

You can’t help but marvel at the brilliant Lilliputian models of the Kennedy Space Center, Amsterdam, Bergen or a Scottish castle and you’ll no doubt vow to head home and drag your Lego out of storage to see what masterpiece you can create (surely it’s not that hard?). In Miniland you can also do some advance sightseeing of Danish landmarks including Copenhagen’s Nyhavn, Ribe, Skagen or various royal palaces. Or take a trip in miniboats past landmarks such as the Statue of Liberty, the Acropolis and an Egyptian temple. The reconstructions are on a scale of 1:20 to 1:40 and the attention to detail is incredible. The park’s largest piece, a model of Indian chief Sitting Bull, was built with 1.4 million Lego bricks. (The smallest piece? A Miniland dove, built from four small white bricks.)

Pick up a map to assist with further exploration. The park is divided into themed areas, including Legoredo Town, a Wild West area that's home to a haunted house; Knights’ Kingdom, where a medieval castle awaits; Pirate Land, which hosts ships, sword-play and a swimming area; Adventure Land, a strange hybrid of Indiana Jones meets Egypt; Polar Land, with a roller coaster and a penguin habitat; and Duplo Land, with plenty of safe, simple rides and activities for littlies.

For some downtime stop by Atlantis, an aquarium built around Lego models of divers and submersibles. For the chilled park-goer there are placid rides, from merry-go-rounds to a tranquil train ride; adrenaline junkies should seek out the roller coasters. Once the entrance fee is paid, all rides are free – the only exception is the SEAT Driving School (99kr), for kids aged seven to 13.

Note that the admission price is slightly cheaper if you buy your tickets in advance online. Family passes are also available online (two adults and two kids 1176kr).

Lalandia BillundACTIVITY CENTRE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%76 14 94 70; www.lalandia.dk; Ellehammers Allé; Aquadome adult/child 220/220kr, Monky Tonky Land 60kr; icon-familygifc)

Adding to the extreme family-friendly focus of Billund is Lalandia, a showy entertainment complex that’s like Vegas for kids. This huge roofed complex (where the sky is always blue and the temperature warm) is free to enter – once inside, you pay for activities.

These include the huge Aquadome waterpark, Monky Tonky playland, mini-golf, tenpin bowling, ice-skating rink and a smorgasbord of sports activities. There are free kids' concerts, too, and a handful of restaurants and shops.

There’s also an associated estate of holiday houses for rent (‘residents’ access the Aquadome and Monky Tonky for free) – see the website for more.

PLASTIC FANTASTIC

A carpenter by trade, Ole Kirk Christiansen turned his tools to making wooden toys in Billund when business was slow during a Depression-era slump in 1932. Christiansen came up with the business name Lego, a contraction of leg godt, meaning ‘play well’ in Danish (in a beautiful piece of symmetry, lego can mean ‘I put together’ in Latin). By the late 1940s Lego became the first Danish company to acquire a plastics-injection moulding machine for toy production and began making interlocking plastic blocks called ‘binding bricks’ – the forerunner of today’s Lego blocks.

In 1960 the wooden-toy warehouse went up in flames, and Lego decided to focus production on its plastic toys instead. Lego blocks soon became the most popular children’s toy in Europe – in 2000 Fortune magazine named the Lego brick 'toy of the century'.

The statistics are incredible: enough Lego has been produced to supply 102 bricks to every person on the planet.

The company (but not the theme park) is still owned by Ole Kirk’s descendants; primary concept and development work takes place at the Billund headquarters, and the small town is growing thanks to the influx of international workers.

In 2017, Lego House was built by the company to showcase the 'Home of the Brick'. There is a museum here tracing the company's rise.

4Sleeping

Billund hotels are pricey, but they’re all busy catering to a market focused firmly on family fun (colourful decor, playrooms, peak-summer activities etc). Advance bookings are highly recommended. Official agency Legoland Holidays (icon-phonegif%96 23 47 92; www.legolandholidays.dk) organises packages.

Less costly are a handful of B&Bs and guesthouses and a no-frills Zleep chain hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%70 23 56 35; www.zleephotels.com; Billund Airport, Passagerterminalen; d 720-1280kr; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW) beside the airport terminal. There are affordable Danhostels 23km away in Givskud and 13km west in Grinsted ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%75 21 19 19; www.danhostel-grindsted.dk; Banegårdsvej 34, Grinsted; s/d/f 595/645/795kr; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW), with easy bus connections.

icon-top-choiceoLegoland Holiday VillageCAMPGROUND, MOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%79 51 13 50; www.legoland-village.dk; Ellehammers Allé; camping ground 295kr, motel r/cabin from 1595/1175kr; icon-hoursgifhApr-early Nov; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Taking everything up a notch with marvellous Lego detail, this outstanding 'village' incorporates the Pirates' Inn Motel and a huge camping ground. In the motel, pirate-themed rooms sleep up to five and include bathroom, wi-fi, TV and linen, plus kitchen access. Self-contained, family-sized cabins are available (choose fun Wild West or Ninjago themes), plus tepees or small glamping barrels.

The camping ground is enormous, and well equipped. Families will love the mini-golf, playgrounds and petting zoo. There's also a restaurant on-site (breakfast buffet adult/child 99/69kr; motel rates include breakfast).

RefborgBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%75 33 26 33; www.refborg.dk; Buen 6; s/d/f incl breakfast 1195/1395/1795kr; icon-wifigifW)

An old kro (inn) in the town centre has been stylishly renovated into this classy midrange hotel, with popular on-site restaurant (dinner mains 185kr to 295kr) and lovely gourmet shop. It makes a refreshing change from the large hotels and Lego-focused activity elsewhere in town.

Hotel PropellenHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%75 33 81 33; www.propellen.dk; Nordmarksvej 3; s/d/f incl breakfast from 1248/1348/1748kr; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Compared to other places in town, Propellen has a grown-up feel, but still caters to families with its indoor pool, playroom and playground. Adults will enjoy the sauna, jacuzzis, fitness centre and restaurant.

icon-top-choiceoHotel LegolandHOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%79 51 13 50; www.hotellegoland.dk; Aastvej 10; r standard/themed incl breakfast from 1820/2170kr; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Lego is everywhere here, alongside spectacular kid-friendly detail – but there's also plenty of appeal for grown-ups at this 223-room hotel. Standard (business-oriented) rooms are unremarkable, though good quality. Where this place shines is in the family rooms, and the fabulous themed rooms (choose from knight, princess, pirate and Ninjago themes, and more) – but these come at a sizeable premium.

Packages usually include parking, buffet breakfast and two days' park admission.

5Eating

There are offerings within Legoland and Lego House, inside Lalandia Billund, and at hotel restaurants. You can also head into Billund itself, which has a supermarket, good bakery-cafe, pizzerias and a few other well-priced options, primarily clustered around Lego House.

Within Legoland there are picnic spots, plus buffet and pizza restaurants and outlets selling the usual theme-park fare. From the park you can also access the buffet restaurant at Hotel Legoland.

Pirates' InnBUFFET€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%79 51 13 50; Ellehammers Allé 2; buffet adult/child 225/99kr; icon-hoursgifh5.30-9pm; icon-familygifc)

At the Legoland Holiday Village is this economical option, serving a family-friendly buffet every evening. It also offers takeaway options.

Panorama Restaurant – Hotel LegolandBUFFET€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%75 33 12 44; Aastvej 10; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm & 5.30-9pm; icon-familygifc)

A large, light-filled place with a comprehensive kids menu. The buffet lunch (adult/child 198/99kr) and dinner (265/125kr) represent reasonable value, and kids (adults, too) will love the potatoes shaped like Lego bricks. The hotel is also home to a separate à la carte steakhouse (mains 225kr to 325kr), if you're after a less crowded (or later) dinner. Reservations recommended.

8Information

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%79 72 72 99; www.visitbillund.dk; Hans Jensensvej 6; icon-hoursgifh9am-3pm Mon-Thu, to 1pm Fri) In Billund township, 1km southwest of Legoland.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Sitting almost right outside Legoland’s gate, Billund Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.billundairport.dk; Passagerterminalen 10) is Denmark’s second-busiest. Numerous direct flights to Scandinavian and European cities are provided by SAS and British Airways. Budget carrier Ryanair connects to London (Stansted), Berlin, Milan, Rome, Barcelona and more.

Bus

From the nearest train station at Vejle, express bus 43 and slower bus 143 drive to Legoland, Billund town centre and Billund Airport (60kr), taking 30 or 45 minutes, respectively. Bus 166 runs from Kolding (70kr, 50 minutes). Bus 912X connects Aarhus with Billund Airport (160kr, 1½ hours).

8Getting Around

Most local buses stop at Billund town centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; Hans Jensensvej), on Hans Jensensvej, near the tourist office, Legoland and the airport.

A free summertime shuttle bus (late June to mid-August) connects the accommodation and attractions of Billund with the town centre and airport (and makes good sense to save on parking fees).

Rent bikes from Jupiter Cykler ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%75 33 12 03; www.jupitercykler.dk; Granvej 2A; per day 75-120kr; icon-hoursgifh9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) in the centre of town.

Jelling

Pop 3400

A sleepy town with a big history, Jelling is revered as the birthplace of Christianity in Denmark, the monarchy and all that is truly Danish. The town served as the royal seat of King Gorm during the Vikings’ most dominant era; Gorm the Old was the first in a millennium-long chain of Danish monarchs that continues unbroken to this day. The site of Gorm’s ancient castle remains a mystery, but other vestiges of his reign can still be found at Jelling Kirke.

The town is a kind of spiritual touchstone for the Danes. Virtually all of them will visit at some point, to pay homage at the church, inspect the two rune stones and climb the burial mounds. The area became a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1994.

1Sights

icon-top-choiceoJelling KirkeCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%75 87 11 17; www.jellingkirke.dk; Thyrasvej 1; icon-hoursgifh8am-8pm May-Aug, to 6pm Mar, Apr, Sep & Oct, to 5pm Nov-Feb, opens 12.30pm Sun)

Inside this small whitewashed church, erected around 1100, are some vividly restored 12th-century frescoes; the main attractions, however, are the two well-preserved rune stones just outside the church door.

The smaller stone was erected in the early 10th century by King Gorm the Old in honour of his wife. The larger one, raised by Gorm’s son, Harald Bluetooth, is adorned with the oldest representation of Christ found in Scandinavia and is commonly dubbed 'Denmark's birth certificate'.

The stone reads: 'King Harald ordered this monument to be made in memory of Gorm his father and Thyra his mother, the Harald who won for himself all Denmark and Norway and made the Danes Christians.' A replica of the stone (in full colour, as the original would once have appeared) is at Kongernes Jelling ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%41 20 63 31; www.natmus.dk; Gormsgade 23; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm May-Oct, closed Mon Nov-Apr), a large interactive museum opposite the church that provides enthralling insight into the town's monuments and burial mounds.

Harald Bluetooth did, in fact, succeed in routing the Swedes from Denmark and began the peaceful conversion of the Danish people from the pagan religion celebrated by his father to Christianity.

BLUETOOTH TRIVIA

Today the term ‘Bluetooth’ is used to describe the wireless transportation of electronic data between computers, mobile phones etc. It is named after 10th-century Harald Bluetooth, who was known for his unification of previously warring tribes from Denmark and Norway (including the then-Danish territory of Skåne in Sweden, which is where Bluetooth technology was developed by Swedish company Ericsson). Bluetooth was likewise intended to unify different technologies. The Bluetooth logo merges the Nordic rune symbols H and B.

4Sleeping & Eating

Jelling Kro has rooms, and there's a camping ground on the outskirts of town with alternatives in nearby Givskud or Billund (about 20km west).

There's a supermarket and a bakery for picnic supplies, and a handful of dining options.

icon-top-choiceoCafe SejdCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%29 61 54 16; www.cafesejd.dk; Gormsstorv 7A; lunch 45-79kr; icon-hoursgifh11am-5pm)

Bjarne and Ole, the guys behind this stylish, mythologically inspired cafe, are storytellers up for a chat (about Viking times or current affairs). There's good coffee on offer, plus local microbrews and even mead, plus tasty fare such as platters of bread and dips.

Jelling KroDANISH€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%75 87 10 06; www.jellingkro.dk; Gormsgade 16; lunch 79-129kr, dinner mains 95-215kr; icon-hoursgifh11am-9.30pm Wed-Mon)

In a 1780 bright-yellow building bristling with character, this country inn serves up traditional, meat-heavy Danish fare. It also has a couple of guest rooms (with shared bathroom; double including breakfast 595kr to 750kr).

Byens CaféCAFE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%76 80 19 90; www.byenshus.com; Møllegade 10; mains 100-160kr; icon-hoursgifhnoon-9pm Tue-Sat, to 5pm Sun)

Byens Hus (The Town’s House) is home to the local library, cinema, gallery and a spacious cafe serving simple all-day dishes (sandwiches, salads, burgers). Inside you’ll see the big copper vats of the local microbrewery, Jelling Bryggeri, and can also sample the wares.

8Information

Tourist information is offered at Kongernes Jelling, and there are brochures and maps at Byens Hus, which is home to the library.

There is online information at www.visitvejle.com.

8Getting There & Away

Jelling is on the Fredericia–Herning–Struer railway line. Trains run at least hourly on weekdays, less frequently on weekends. Change in Vejle (32kr, 15 minutes) for bus 43 to Billund.

8Getting Around

Jelling Kirke is in the centre of town, a five-minute walk due north from the train station along Stationsvej.

Givskud

Pop 620

The prime (only?) reason to visit Givskud is its safari park (Zootopia; GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%75 73 02 22; www.givskudzoo.dk; Løveparkvej 3; adult/child 200/110kr; icon-hoursgifhfrom 10am mid-Apr–Oct; icon-familygifc), though its excellent Danhostel ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%75 73 05 00; www.givskudzoo.dk; Løveparkvej 2B; dm/s/d/f 200/600/700/770kr; icon-wifigifW) is useful as the nearest hostel to Legoland (23km). Bus 211 connects to Vejle, via Jelling.

Givskud Zoo (Zootopia; GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%75 73 02 22; www.givskudzoo.dk; Løveparkvej 3; adult/child 200/110kr; icon-hoursgifhfrom 10am mid-Apr–Oct; icon-familygifc) is an entertaining safari park with plenty of African animals, and you can explore certain areas from the comfort of your own car or in the park-run safari buses (40kr). Walking trails will take you past elephant and gorilla enclosures; for littlies, there’s also a petting zoo.

Check the website for closed days; note that closing times vary (from 4pm to 8pm). Bus 211 runs regularly to the zoo from Vejle, via Jelling.

Herning

Pop 49,200

If you’re a fan of modern art, chances are you’ve heard of Italian conceptual artist Piero Manzoni (1933–63). What you may not know is that the biggest public collection of his work is not in Milan, but on the eastern fringe of Herning, a regional textile centre 40km west of Silkeborg. You’ll find Manzoni’s work, and that of other visionaries, at HEART ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%97 12 10 33; www.heartmus.dk; Birk Centerpark 8, Herning; adult/child 75kr/free; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Tue-Sun), Herning’s striking museum of contemporary art. Designed by US architect Steven Holl, the museum's cloth-like crumpled walls and sleeve-inspired roof honour the collection’s founder, Danish shirt manufacturer and passionate art collector Aage Damgaard (1917–91). In the summers of 1960 and 1961, Damgaard invited Manzoni to indulge his creative spirit in Herning. The result was a string of masterpieces and the forging of Herning’s Manzoni legacy. But HEART doesn’t stop at 20th-century conceptual art, with several world-class exhibitions of contemporary art staged annually.

Across the street, the CHPEA Museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%96 28 86 50; www.chpeamuseum.dk; Birk Centerpark 1, Herning; adult/child 100kr/free; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Tue-Sun) showcases the riotously colourful paintings, watercolours, mosaics, ceramics and sculptures of artists Carl-Henning Pedersen (1913–2007) and Else Alfelt (1910–74); there’s a large sculpture park beyond the museum.

Herning's other claim to fame is Boxen ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.mch.dk; Kaj Zartows Vej 7, Herning), a slick indoor sporting arena and concert venue hosting big-name international touring acts. It's south of the city, off Hwy 15.

8Getting There & Away

For HEART, get off the train from Silkeborg at Birk Centerpark station (65kr, 32 minutes), not at Herning St. For Boxen, continue to Herning Messecenter Station. Jelling-Herning trains (92kr, 40 minutes) run hourly. Buses 15 and 952X link to Ringkøbing for Hvide Sande.

The Lake District

Søhøjlandet (the 'Lakelands' region) gently dazzles with hills, forests and lakes. It's home to Denmark’s longest river (the 160km Gudenå), Jutland’s biggest lake (Mossø) and Denmark’s highest point, Møllehøj at a smidge under 171m, bless its cotton socks. It's unlikely to induce nosebleeds, but it's a delightful area for rambling in superbly pretty scenery. Hugely popular as a summer destination, the area is thick with camping grounds (most offering cabins too), plus hotels in the towns, a smattering of hostels, and some B&Bs and traditional kro (inns). Good bases are Ry and Silkeborg.

Silkeborg

Pop 43,200

In a flat country, the modern town of Silkeborg is something of a black sheep, surrounded as it is by hills, sitting on an expansive lake and spaciously laid out. Modern-art lovers and history boffins will find cause to stop here, but nature lovers have the most to celebrate. It’s Silkeborg’s surrounding landscapes that draw tourists – not thrillseekers but rather families and outdoorsy folk drawn to the lush forests and waterways that are perfect for cycling, rambling and, especially, canoeing.

1Sights

icon-top-choiceoIndelukketPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Åhave Allé; icon-familygifc)

Don’t miss a stroll through this picturesque riverside park – follow Åhavevej south to reach it. There’s a snack bar here, as well as mini-golf, a playground, a marina and an open-air stage. If you’re on foot, it’s the desired route to get to Museum Jorn, the camping ground and points further south.

icon-top-choiceoMuseum SilkeborgMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%86 82 14 99; www.museumsilkeborg.dk; Hovedgårdsvej 7; adult/child 65kr/free; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm May-Oct, noon-4pm Tue-Sun Nov-Apr)

Here you can check out the amazingly well-preserved body of the 2400-year-old Tollund Man, the central (albeit leathery) star in an otherwise smart but predictable collection. The well-preserved face of the Tollund Man is hypnotic in its detail, right down to the stubble on his chin. Like the Grauballe Man at Aarhus’ Moesgaard Museum, the life (and death) of the Tollund Man remains a mystery.

His intact remains were found on the outskirts of Silkeborg in 1950, and have been radiocarbon dated to around the 4th century BC. The autopsy suggests he had been hanged, yet he was placed as though lying asleep with only a leather hat over his face and a thin leather noose around his neck. Was he an executed prisoner, or a sacrifice to the gods? That’s the big unanswered question, but the accompanying displays aren’t as engrossing as those at Moesgaard.

KunstCentret Silkeborg BadMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%86 81 63 29; www.silkeborgbad.dk; Gjessøvej 40; adult/child 75kr/free; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, noon-4pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun Oct-Apr)

This former spa dates from 1883 and is now a beautiful, modern art space, with permanent works and changing exhibitions of art, sculpture, ceramics, glassware, design and architecture. It's surrounded by parkland (always open) featuring contemporary sculpture. It’s about 2km southwest of town; catch local bus 10.

Museum JornMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%86 82 53 88; www.museumjorn.dk; Gudenåvej 7-9; adult/child 100kr/free; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Tue-Sun)

This wonderful art space contains some striking pieces. It displays many of the works of native son Asger Jorn and other modern artists, including Max Ernst, Le Corbusier and Danish artists from the influential CoBrA group. It’s 1km south of the town centre.

AquaAQUARIUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%89 21 21 87; www.visitaqua.dk; Vejlsøvej 55; adult/child 160/90kr; icon-hoursgifhfrom 10am; icon-familygifc)

Aqua, 2km south of the town centre, is an entertaining aquarium, zoo and exhibition centre built into several outdoor lakes. It explores the ecosystems of the area, with lots of touch-tanks and fishy creatures, cute otters and birds among the imaginative displays. Closing times vary, from 4pm in winter to 8pm in July.

Local bus 4 runs down this way, but a nicer option in summer is to take a boat with Hjejlen Boat Company.

2Activities

The website www.silkeborg.com has information on canoeing, kayaking, hiking, cycling, swimming and more (including options such as golf, horse riding and fishing).

icon-top-choiceoØstre SøbadSWIMMING

( GOOGLE MAP ; Horsensvej)

For idyllic swimming, head to the lakeshore of Almindsø. Head south of town on Frederiksberggade and take a left at the roundabout in the direction of Horsens. The swimming area is signposted on your right after 1km; there are bathing jetties, change rooms and a kiosk here.

Silkeborg KanocenterCANOEING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%86 80 30 03; www.silkeborgkanocenter.dk; Østergade 36; canoes per hr/day 100/400kr; icon-hoursgifh9am-8pm Jun–mid-Aug, to 5pm May & late Aug; icon-familygifc)

Silkeborg Kanocenter hires out canoes and can help plan a range of tour options (adaptable from two to five days). You can also hire motor boats (per hour/day 200/900kr) if the exertion of canoeing doesn’t appeal.

Hjejlen Boat CompanyBOATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%86 82 07 66; www.hjejlen.com; Sejsvej 2; one way/return 100/150kr; icon-hoursgifhMay-Sep; icon-familygifc)

The Hjejlen, the world’s oldest operating paddle steamer, has been plying the waters of the Lake District since it was first launched in 1861. These days the boat shuttles tourists from Silkeborg to Himmelbjerget during the summer season, along with a fleet of other boats (departures 10am, 11am, 1.30pm and 2.30pm on operating days; additional sailings in peak summer).

The route takes in a wealth of river and lake scenery and is one of the most popular outings in the Lake District. Boats also stop at the hostel, Indelukket park and Aqua aquarium.

There is also an option for a one-hour nonstop sightseeing cruise on the lakes (adult/child 100/50kr).

Silkeborg Kayak og SUP CenterKAYAKING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%22 37 70 07; www.skcu.dk; Åhave Allé 7; kayaks per hr/day 100/300kr; icon-hoursgifhnoon-4pm Mon-Thu, 10am-6pm Fri & Sat Jun, 10am-6pm Jul–mid-Aug, by arrangement rest of year; icon-familygifc)

At the northern end of Indelukket park, this centre has single and family kayaks available for short and multiday rental, plus stand-up paddleboards (SUPs) and motorboats.

Hiking & Cycling

There are various maps and brochures on hiking and cycling routes – look out for 12 Beautiful Bicycle Tours or 12 Lovely Walks in the Lakelands.

Silkeborg Mountainbike Center ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%24 60 37 12; www.silkeborgmtbcenter.dk; Christian 8s Vej 2A; mountain-bike rental per day 350kr) has mountain bikes for hire; for a taster, consider taking a bike on the boat to Himmelbjerget and cycling back (15km). If you're after a regular (cheaper) bike, head to Silkeborg Sø Camping ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%86 82 28 24; www.seacamp.dk; Aarhusvej 51; bike rental per day/week 125/600kr; icon-hoursgifhApr-Oct).

The beech forest of Nordskoven is crisscrossed with hiking and biking trails. To reach Nordskoven head south down Åhavevej, then go left over the old railway bridge near the hostel.

The track of the old railway from Silkeborg to Horsens is now an excellent walking and cycling trail of about 50km or so.

Hærvejen (www.haervej.com) is an ancient trackway that passes through the Lake District west of Silkeborg. This is a 250km historic route from the German border north to Viborg along the backbone of Denmark; it’s been converted into a cycling, hiking and horse-riding trail.

zFestivals & Events

Riverboat Jazz FestivalMUSIC

(www.riverboat.dk; icon-hoursgifhJun)

Scandis love jazz, and Silkeborg has embraced it with the five-day Riverboat Jazz Festival, held in late June. It’s not quite New Orleans, but you can buy a ticket and take a cruise down the river, or stroll the streets and take advantage of the free performances.

4Sleeping

icon-top-choiceoDanhostel SilkeborgHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%86 82 36 42; www.danhostel-silkeborg.dk; Åhavevej 55; dm 275kr, d with/without bathroom 750/520kr; icon-hoursgifhMar-Nov; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

The truly lovely riverbank location, good facilities and lack of budget alternatives in town make this hostel popular, so book ahead. Once here, enjoy the outdoor tables and homey communal areas alongside cyclists, families, school groups and Euro-backpackers. Dorm beds are available July to mid-September; breakfast costs 80kr.

icon-top-choiceoVilla ZeltnerB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%29 82 58 58; www.villa-zeltner.dk; Zeltnersvej 4; s/d/apt from 400/550/700kr; icon-wifigifW)

Super-central and with loads of style, this great-value B&B houses a handful of rooms with shared bathroom and kitchen access, plus a couple of small apartments with private kitchen and bathroom. There's garden access and a grill, too. Breakfast can be arranged at additional cost.

Gudenåens CampingCAMPGROUND

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%86 82 22 01; www.gudenaaenscamping.dk; Vejlsøvej 7; per adult/child/site 88/54/72kr; icon-hoursgifhApr-Oct; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Follow the signs for Aqua to find this tree-filled riverside park, about 2km south of the town centre (just south of Indelukket). Cabins and caravans are available for hire, and facilities are family focused. Local bus 4 runs down this way.

Radisson BLU HotelHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%88 82 22 22; www.radissonblu.com/hotel-silkeborg; Papirfabrikken 12; d incl breakfast from 1275kr; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

This polished performer lives in the redeveloped paper factory that was once the backbone of the local economy. It’s right on the river, among a clutch of restaurants, and the designer rooms are petite but comfy and well equipped. Weekend rates are cheaper than midweek.

5Eating

There are two areas to investigate when scouting for eating (and drinking) options: the reinvigorated Papirfabrikken (the old paper factory), and Nygade, with its fast food and international cuisines.

LandmadDELI, CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%20 20 88 32; www.landmad.dk/silkeborg; Nygade 32A; sandwiches & salads 59-69kr; icon-hoursgifh9am-5.30pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri, 10am-3pm Sat)

A kind of small, indoors farmers market, Landmad showcases local produce and offers excellent take-home meals, plus sells coffee, drinks and cracker sandwiches and salads.

Okkels IsICE CREAM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%86 81 83 99; www.okkelsis.dk; Nygade 26E; 2/3 scoops 30/40kr; icon-hoursgifh11am-10pm May–mid-Aug, shorter hours rest of year; icon-familygifc)

Excellent homemade Italian-style ice cream.

FøtexSUPERMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Torvet; icon-hoursgifh8am-9pm)

Central supermarket with on-site bakery and cafe (bakery opens 7am).

Evald Brasserie & CafeINTERNATIONAL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%86 80 33 66; www.evald.nu; Papirfabrikken 10B; lunch 85-190kr, dinner mains 140-290kr; icon-hoursgifh11am-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri, 10am-midnight Sat, 10am-10pm Sun; icon-familygifc)

Among the family restaurants, cinema and cafe-bars of Papirfabrikken is bustling Evald, wooing patrons with a crowd-pleasing menu. Sit at a riverside table, order a beer from the local Grauballe Bryghus (brewery), and try the bumper Evald burger or three-course set dinner menu (299kr).

Classique Fiske RestaurantSEAFOOD€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%86 20 12 15; www.classiquefiskerestaurant.dk; Åhavevej 2A; lunch 79-235kr, dinner mains 229-259kr; icon-hoursgifhnoon-10pm)

From its cheerful yellow exterior to its designer-clad interior, this grand old villa bids a warm welcome. Eat inside, among the owner's great art and furniture collection, or outside in the garden. There's a high-class, fish-focused menu, but guests are equally welcome to stop in for a coffee or glass of wine.

3Entertainment

Jysk MusikteaterTHEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.jmts.dk; Papirfabrikken 80)

This large modern theatre hosts regular concerts and stage shows.

8Information

Website www.silkeborg.com is full of helpful information. There's no tourist office but an assortment of touchscreens and info-brochure stands are found around town, including in the foyer of the Jysk Musikteater.

8Getting There & Away

Silkeborg is 44km west of Aarhus on Rte 15.

Half-hourly trains connect Silkeborg with Aarhus (90kr, 45 minutes) via Ry (40kr, 15 minutes).

Long-distance buses stop at Trafikterminalen ( GOOGLE MAP ; Drewsensvej), next door to the train station.

8Getting Around

Local buses stop at Trafikterminalen and at a central stop ( GOOGLE MAP ; Godthåbsvej) close to Torvet.

Ry

Pop 5700

Mellow, rural Ry lies in the heart of the Lake District. It has a pretty duck-filled marina, where you’ll find canoe hire and tourist boats to Himmelbjerget. It's surrounded by lovely landscapes and quaint villages perfect for exploring.

2Activities

Hjejlen Boat CompanyBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%86 82 07 66; www.hjejlen.com; one way/return 70/100kr)

Schedules three boats daily from Ry to Himmelbjerget, operating most days June to August (and weekends in May and September; see the website to confirm sail dates). Boats leave Ry at 10.30am, 12.45pm and 3pm, and sail from Himmelbjerget one hour later. It's good to book a day in advance.

Ry KanofartCANOEING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%86 89 11 67; www.kanoferie.dk; Kyhnsvej 20; canoes per hr/day 100/400kr; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm Jun-Aug, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun May & Sep, or by appointment)

Ry Kanofart has canoes for hire. As with the operators in Silkeborg, staff here can help you plan a day or multiday trip paddling on the Gudenå and lakes.

Ry CyklerCYCLING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%86 89 14 91; www.rycykler.dk; Parallelvej 9B; regular/mountain-bike rental per day 75/200kr; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)

Rents bikes.

4Sleeping

Knudhule BadehotelHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%86 89 14 07; www.knudhule.dk; Randersvej 88; s/d from 585/770kr; icon-wifigifW)

About 2km outside Ry, this sweet hotel is in a pretty locale, across the road from the bathing jetties of Knudsø lake. On offer is a collection of freshly renovated rooms and cabins – the cheapest rooms are petite but well equipped. There are also four family-sized cabins with kitchen. On-site is the excellent Restaurant Gastronomisk Institut.

Hotel RyHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%86 89 19 11; www.hotelry.dk; Kyhnsvej 2; s/d from 840/1000kr; icon-wifigifW)

New owners have taken over the town's big main-street hotel. When we visited they were in the process of giving the place a major makeover, and when they're done there will be 55 fresh, colourful and individually styled rooms, plus a raft of new eateries (including a restaurant, gastropub and takeaway). Stop by to check it out.

5Eating

There are sushi and Italian restaurants on Skanderborgvej plus a few takeaways. Opposite Ry train station Le Gâteau ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%86 89 03 37; www.legateau.dk; Klostervej 12; sandwiches from 45kr; icon-hoursgifh7am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat, to noon Sun) is a smart bakery with good coffee. Kvickly Supermarket ( GOOGLE MAP ; Siimtoften 2; icon-hoursgifh8am-8pm) is just back from the marina.

LakesideINTERNATIONAL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%70 70 71 13; www.lakesidery.dk; Skimminghøj 2; mains 75-200kr; icon-hoursgifh5.30-9pm Tue, 11.30am-9pm Wed-Sun Jul & Aug, shorter hours rest of year)

The couple behind the popular Hotel Julsø at Himmelbjerget are also responsible for this appealing new option down by the marina. It's an idyllic spot for their relaxed decor and crowd-pleasing menu of pasta, burgers, steak and a couple of French classics like moules-frites. Plus, attached is a kiosk selling homemade Italian ice cream, panini and fish and chips.

Restaurant Gastronomisk InstitutEUROPEAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%86 89 14 07; www.knudhule.dk; Knudhule Badehotel, Randersvej 88; lunch 89-199kr, dinner mains 125-299kr; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2pm & from 6pm Mon-Sat)

The ambitious name creates high expectations and this high-end restaurant delivers, with changing menus showcasing regional, seasonal produce (and good-value set menus, including four dinner courses for 365kr). Leisurely lunchers enjoy classic smørrebrød (open sandwiches); dinner ranges from pan-fried plaice to veal tenderloin. The restaurant is outside town at the lakeside Knudhule Badehotel; bookings recommended.

8Information

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%86 69 66 00; www.visitskanderborg.com; Klostervej 3; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat Jul & Aug, 10am-3pm Mon-Fri Apr-Jun & Sep) At the train station. Particularly helpful given that there is no longer a staffed tourist office in Silkeborg. From October to March you can call in on weekdays (11am to 2pm) to help yourself to brochures.

8Getting There & Away

Half-hourly trains connect Ry with Aarhus (70kr, 30 minutes) and Silkeborg (40kr, 15 minutes).

The two-hour, 7km walk northwest to Himmelbjerget starts along Munkedalsvej, which branches off Rodelundvej just south of the Ry bridge. The signposted path leads to the Himmelbjerget boat dock before climbing the hill to the tower. A nice option is to hike out and catch a boat back to Ry or on to Silkeborg.

Himmelbjerget

There’s something quite endearing about a country that names one of its highest points Himmelbjerget (meaning 'sky mountain'), especially when that peak only hits 147m. It’s a mere hillock to non-Danes, but it does afford charming vistas of the surrounding forests and lakes and is a popular tourist spot, complete with ice-cream kiosks and souvenir stalls ringing the car park.

It costs 10kr to park your vehicle. Once you’ve completed the brief pilgrimage from the car park to the mountaintop, you could climb the elegant 25m tower ( GOOGLE MAP ; 10kr; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm May–mid-Sep) built in 1875, but the view from outside the tower is just as panoramic.

There are a number of memorials in the vicinity, plus kids' play areas and marked hiking trails.

A trail leads 1km from the mountaintop of Himmelbjerget down to the lakeshore where boats from Ry and Silkeborg dock. At the dock you’ll find Hotel Julsø ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%86 89 80 40; www.hotel-julso.dk; Julsøvej 14, Ry; lunch 110-245kr, 2-/3-course dinner 325/385kr; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-10pm Mon & Thu-Sat, to 5pm Tue, Wed & Sun Jun-Aug, shorter hours Apr, May, Sep & Oct), a photogenic timber kro (inn) with a watery panorama and a gourmet menu that highlights the talents of the Italian-born chef. The kro can also be reached by road off Rte 445.

Events are held here during the summer peak; it's worth calling ahead to reserve a table – and to ensure it's open, as it has a complex schedule of closing days from April to mid-October.

There's a snack bar attached to the kro. Note that the hotel doesn't have accommodation.

8Getting There & Away

From Ry, Himmelbjerget is a 10-minute drive west on Rte 445 (no bus), a pleasant 7km hike/bike ride or a scenic Hjejlen boat ride, thrice daily on operating days (one-way/return 70/100kr, 50 minutes, see website calendar). A boat also links to Silkeborg four to six times each operating day (100/150kr, 75 minutes).