NUREMBERG
Nuremberg at a Glance…
Nuremberg (Nürnberg) is an energetic city where the nightlife is intense and the beer dark as coffee. The city is alive with visitors year-round, but especially during the spectacular Christmas market. For centuries, Nuremberg was the undeclared capital of the Holy Roman Empire and the preferred residence of most German kings. By the 19th century, it had become a powerhouse in the industrial revolution, which the Nazi party saw as a perfect stage for its activities. After the party’s demise, the city played host to the war crimes tribunal known as the Nuremberg Trials.
Nuremberg in One Day
Start your explorations at the Hauptmarkt, Nuremburg’s main square. Walk north past the old town hall with with its medieval dungeons to 13th-century St Sebalduskirche and onwards to Stadtmuseum Fembohaus to learn about the highs and lows of this important city, then head south to Albrecht-Dürer-Haus, where the Renaissance genius lived and worked.
Nuremberg in Two Days
Looming over the scene is the Kaiserburg, the castle of medieval knights with its warren of imperial chambers. You can spend hours wandering around the city ramparts, but be sure to save plenty of time to explore the excellent Germanisches National-museum and fascinating Memorium Nuremberg Trials. And for something refreshingly different, Nuremburg’s nationally-lauded Deutsche Bahn Museum is a delight for young and old.
Arriving in Nuremberg
Albrecht Dürer Airport Handles domestic and some international flights.
Nuremberg Hauptbahnhof Major stop in the city centre served by local and national trains.
Main bus station Important stop for many national and international services. Located in the city centre.
Sleeping
Accommodation gets tight and rates rocket during the Christmas market and the toy fair (trade only) in late January to early February. At other times, cheap rooms can be found, especially if you book ahead. Most accommodation is located within the walls of the Altstadt, but staying outside can bring costs down considerably.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Exploring the Altstadt
Nuremberg has one of the largest and most history-packed old towns in the business and a wander around its crooked, steep lanes, covered bridges and intact city defences is one of the high points of any visit to Bavaria.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
Ehekarussell Brunnen (Weisser Turm U-Bahn), a grotesque sculptural work depicting six interpretations of marriage.
8Need to Know
The Altstadt is served by the Weisser Turm and Lorenzkirche U-Bahn stations.
5Take a Break
Altstadt-based Bratwursthäusle is the best place to sample Nuremberg’s famous sausages.
oTop Tip
The two-day Nürnberg+Fürth Card (€25) gives admission to all museums and attractions.
St Sebalduskirche
Nuremberg’s oldest church (map Google map; www.sebalduskirche.de; Winklerstrasse 26; 
h9.30am-4pm Jan-Mar, to 6pm Apr-Dec) was built in rusty pink-veined sandstone in the 13th century. Its exterior is adorned with religious sculptures and symbols; check out the ornate carvings over the Bridal Doorway to the north, showing the Wise and Foolish Virgins. Inside, the bronze shrine of St Sebald (Nuremberg’s own saint) is a Gothic and Renaissance masterpiece that took its maker, Peter Vischer the Elder, and his two sons more than 11 years to complete.
Stadtmuseum Fembohaus
Offering an entertaining overview of the city’s history, highlights of the Stadtmuseum Fembohaus (map Google map; 
%0911-231 2595; Burgstrasse 15; adult/child €6/1.50; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun) include the restored historic rooms of this 16th-century merchant’s house.
Albrecht-Dürer-Haus
Dürer, Germany’s most famous Renaissance draughtsman, lived and worked at the Albrecht-Dürer-Haus (map Google map; %0911-231 2568; Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse 39; adult/child €6/1.50; h10am-5pm Tue, Wed & Fri, to 8pm Thu, to 6pm Sat & Sun, to 5pm Mon Jul-Sep) from 1509 until his death in 1528. After a multimedia show, there’s an audioguide tour of the four-storey house, which is narrated by ‘Agnes’, Dürer’s wife.
Kaiserburg
This enormous castle complex (map Google map; %0911-244 6590; www.kaiserburg-nuernberg.de; Auf der Burg; adult/child incl Sinwell Tower €7/free, Palas & Museum €5.50/free; h9am-6pm Apr-Sep, 10am-4pm Oct-Mar) above the Altstadt poignantly reflects Nuremberg’s medieval might. The main attraction is a tour of the newly renovated Palas (residential wing) to see the lavish Knights’ and Imperial Hall, a Romanesque double chapel and an exhibit on the inner workings of the Holy Roman Empire. This segues to the Kaiserburg Museum, which focuses on the castle’s military and building history.
Germanisches Nationalmuseum
Spanning prehistory to the early 20th century, the national museum (map Google map; %0911-133 10; www.gnm.de; Kartäusergasse 1; adult/child €8/5; h10am-6pm Tue & Thu-Sun, to 9pm Wed) is the German-speaking world’s biggest and most important museum of Teutonic culture. It features works by German painters and sculptors, an archaeological collection, arms and armour, musical and scientific instruments, and toys.
1Sights
Deutsche Bahn MuseumMuseum
(map Google map; %0800-3268 7386; www.dbmuseum.de; Lessingstrasse 6; adult/child €6/3; h9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun)
Forget Dürer and wartime rallies, Nuremberg is a railway town at heart. Germany’s first passenger trains ran between here and Fürth, a fact reflected in the unmissable German Railways Museum. which explores the history of Germany’s legendary rail system. The huge exhibition that continues across the road is one of Nuremberg’s top sights, especially if you have a soft spot for things that run on rails.
If you have tots aboard, head straight for KIBALA (Kinder-Bahnland – Children’s Railway World), a section of the museum where lots of hands-on, interactive choo-choo-themed attractions await. There’s also a huge model railway, one of Germany’s largest, set in motion every hour by a uniformed controller.
However the real meat of the show are the two halls of locos and rolling stock. The first hall contains Ludwig II’s incredible rococo rail carriage, dubbed the ‘Versailles of the rails’, as well as Bismarck’s considerably less ostentatious means of transport. There’s also Germany’s most famous steam loco, the Adler, built by the Stephensons in Newcastle-upon-Tyne for the Nuremberg–Fürth line. The second hall across the road from the main building houses some mammoth engines, some with their Nazi or Deutsche Reichsbahn insignia still in place.
Memorium Nuremberg TrialsMemorial
(%0911-3217 9372; www.memorium-nuremberg.de; Bärenschanzstrasse 72; adult/child incl audioguide €6/1.50; h9am-6pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, slightly shorter hours Nov-Mar)
Göring, Hess, Speer and 21 other Nazi leaders were tried for crimes against peace and humanity by the Allies in Schwurgerichtssaal 600 (Court Room 600) of this still-working courthouse. Today the room forms part of an engaging exhibit detailing the background, progression and impact of the trials using film, photographs, audiotape and even the original defendants’ dock. To get here, take the U1 towards Bärenschanze and get off at Sielstrasse.
Reichsparteitags-geländeHistoric Site
(Luitpoldhain; %0911-231 7538; www.museen.nuernberg.de/dokuzentrum; Bayernstrasse 110; grounds free, Documentation Centre adult/child incl audioguide €6/1.50; hgrounds 24hr, Documentation Centre 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun)
If you’ve ever wondered where the infamous B&W images of ecstatic Nazi supporters hailing their Führer were taken, it was here in Nuremberg. Much of the grounds were destroyed during Allied bombing raids, but enough remain to get a sense of the megalomania behind it, especially after visiting the excellent Dokumentationszentrum (Documentation Centre). It’s served by tram 8 from the Hauptbahnhof.
TTours
Geschichte für AlleCultural
(%0911-307 360; www.geschichte-fuer-alle.de; adult/concession €8/7)
An intriguing range of themed English-language tours by a nonprofit association. The ‘Albrecht Dürer’ and ‘Life in Medieval Nuremberg’ tours come highly recommended.
Old Town Walking ToursWalking
(%0170-141 1223; www.nuernberg-tours.de; tour €10; h1pm May-Oct)
English-language old-town walking tours are run by the tourist office – tours leave from the Hauptmarkt branch and take two hours.
Nuremberg ToursWalking
(www.nurembergtours.com; adult/concession €22/19; h11.15am Mon, Wed & Sat Apr-Oct)
Four-hour walking and public transport tours taking in the city centre and the Reichsparteitagsgelände. Groups meet at the entrance to the Hauptbahnhof.
Nuremburg for Kids
No city in Bavaria has more for kids to see and do than Nuremberg. Every two months the region even produces a thick ‘what’s on’ magazine called Frankenkids (www.frankenkids.de) focusing specifically on things to do with children. Keeping the little ones entertained in these parts really is child’s play.
Children & Young People’s Museum (%0911-600 040; www.kindermuseum-nuernberg.de; Michael-Ende-Strasse 17; adult/family €7.50/19.50; h2-5.30pm Sat, 10am-5.30pm Sun Sep-Jun) Educational exhibitions and lots of hands-on fun – just a pity it’s not open more often.
School Museum (%0911-530 2574; Äussere Sulzbacher Strasse 62; adult/child €6/1.50; h9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun) Recreated classroom plus school-related exhibits from the 17th century to the Third Reich.
Deutsche Bahn Museum Feeds the kids’ obsession for choo-choos.
Playground of the Senses (www.erfahrungsfeld.nuernberg.de; Wöhrder Wiese; adult/child €8.50/7; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 1-6pm Sat, 10am-6pm Sun May–mid-Sep) Some 80 hands-on ‘stations’ designed to educate children in the laws of nature, physics and the human body. Take the U2 or U3 to Wöhrder Wiese.
Playmobil (%0911-9666 1700; www.playmobil-funpark.de; Brandstätterstrasse 2-10; admission €11.90; h10am-6pm mid-Feb–Mar, 9am-6pm Apr, 9am-7pm May–mid-Sep) This theme park has life-size versions of the popular toys. It’s located 9km west of the city centre in Zirndorf; take the S4 to Anwanden, then change to bus 151. Free admission if it’s your birthday. Special ‘Kleine Dürer’ (Little Dürer; €2.99) figures are on sale here and at the tourist office.
7Shopping
From late November to Christmas Eve, the Hauptmarkt is taken over by what most regards as Germany’s top Christkindlesmarkt (Christmas market; www.christkindlesmarkt.de). Yuletide shoppers descend on the ‘Christmas City’ from all over Europe to seek out unique gifts at the scores of colourful timber trinket stalls that fill the square.
Bier KontorAlcohol
(map Google map; An der Mauthalle 2; h11am-2pm & 2.30-7pm Mon-Sat)
This small shop just off the tourist drag stocks a whopping 350 types of beer, from local Franconian suds to Hawaiian ales, fruity Belgian concoctions to British porters. And staff really know their stuff when it comes to the amber nectar.
5Eating
Nuremberg has all kinds of cuisines, from Chinese to Croatian, Mexican to Czech. But it’s the cosy Franconian taverns serving dark Landbier and the city’s famous bratwurst that will leave a lasting culinary memory. Eating out is cheaper than in Munich but perhaps slightly pricier than in the rest of Franconia.
Café am TrödelmarktCafe€
(map Google map; Trödelmarkt 42; dishes €4-10; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun)
A gorgeous place on a sunny day, this multilevel waterfront cafe overlooks the covered Henkersteg bridge. It’s especially popular for its continental breakfasts, and has fantastic cakes, as well as good blackboard lunchtime specials between 11am and 2pm.
Naturkostladen LotosOrganic, Buffet€
(map Google map; www.naturkostladen-lotos.de; Am Unschlittplatz 1; dishes €4-9; h9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat; 
v)
Unclog arteries and blast free radicals with a blitz of grain burgers, spinach soup or vegan pizza at this strictly organic health-food shop. The fresh bread and cheese counter is a treasure chest of nutritious picnic supplies.
Albrecht Dürer StubeFranconian€€
(map Google map; %0911-227 209; www.albrecht-duerer-stube.de; cnr Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse & Agnesgasse; mains €6-15.50; h6pm-midnight Mon-Sat plus 11.30am-2.30pm Fri & Sun)
This unpretentious and intimate restaurant has a Dürer-inspired dining room, prettily laid tables, a ceramic stove keeping things toasty and a menu of Nuremberg sausages, steaks, sea fish, seasonal specials, Franconian wine and Landbier (regional beer). There aren’t many tables so booking ahead at weekends is recommended.
BratwursthäusleFranconian€€
(map Google map; http://die-nuernberger-bratwurst.de; Rathausplatz 1; meals €7.50-11.50; h11am-10pm)
Seared over a flaming beech-wood grill, the little links sold at this rustic inn next to the Sebalduskirche arguably set the standard across the land. You can dine in the timbered restaurant or on the terrace with views of the Hauptmarkt. Service can be flustered at busy times and it’s cash only when the bill comes.
Goldenes PosthornFranconian€€
(map Google map; %0911-225 153; Glöckleinsgasse 2, cnr Sebalder Platz; mains €6-14; h11.30am-11.30pm)
Push open the heavy copper door to find a real culinary treat that has hosted royals, artists and professors (including Albrecht Dürer) since 1498. You can’t go wrong sticking with the miniature local sausages, but the pork shoulder and also the house speciality – vinegar-marinated ox cheeks – are both good value for money.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Franconia is a slightly underrated beer destination, and as the capital, Nuremberg offers some first-rate quaffing. Landbier (beers produced in small breweries out in the sticks) and craft beers are definitely the beverages to seek out with lots of variety on offer. Coffee varies in quality, it has to be said. When it comes to post-sundown frolicking, Nuremberg has everything from mainstream clubs to alternative venues, but specialises in student-y cafe-bar hangouts.
KettenstegBeer Garden
(map Google map; Maxplatz 35; h11am-11pm)
At the end of the chain bridge and in the shadow of the Halletor you’ll find this classic Bavarian beer garden complete with its gravel floor, folding slatted chairs, fairy lights, tree shade and river views. Zirndorfer, Lederer and Tucher beers are on tap and some of the food comes on heart-shaped plates.
Barfüsser BrauhausBeer Hall
(map Google map; Königstrasse 60; h11am-1am Mon-Fri, to 2am Sat)
This cellar beer hall deep below street level is a popular spot to hug a mug of site-brewed ale, bubbling frothily in the copper kettles that occupy the cavernous vaulted interior. The traditional trappings of the huge quaffing space clash oddly with the polo shirts of the swift-footed waiting staff, but that’s our only criticism.
3Entertainment
The excellent Plärrer (www.plaerrer.de), available at newsstands throughout the city and from the tourist office, is the best source of information on events around town.
StaatstheaterTheatre
(map Google map; %0911-231 3808; www.staatstheater-nuernberg.de; Richard-Wagner-Platz 2)
Nuremberg’s magnificent state theatre serves up an impressive mix of dramatic arts. The renovated art nouveau opera house presents opera and ballet, while the Kammerspiele offers a varied program of classical and contemporary plays. The Nürnberger Philharmoniker also performs here.
HirschLive Music
(%0911-429 414; www.der-hirsch.de; Vogelweiherstrasse 66)
This converted factory, 2.5km south of the Hauptbahnhof, hosts live alternative music almost daily, both big-name acts and local names. Take the U1 or U2 to Plärrer, then change to tram 4, alighting at Dianaplatz.
8INFORMATION
Tourist office branches at Hauptmarkt and in the Künstlerhaus sell the Nuremberg Card (€23) with two days of free museum entry and public transport. Staff also offer maps, info and advice.
Tourist Office Hauptmarkt (map; %0911-233 60; www.tourismus.nuernberg.de; Hauptmarkt 18; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) Hauptmarkt branch of the tourist office. Has extended hours during Christkindlesmarkt which takes place on its doorstep.
Tourist Office Künstlerhaus (map; %0911-233 60; www.tourismus.nuernberg.de; Königstrasse 93; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) Publishes the excellent See & Enjoy booklet, a comprehensive guide to the city.
8GETTING THERE & AWAY
AIR
Nuremberg’s Albrecht Dürer Airport (NUE; %0911-937 00; www.airport-nuernberg.de; Flughafenstrasse), 5km north of the centre, is served by regional and international carriers, including Ryanair, Lufthansa, Air Berlin and Air France.
BUS
Buses to destinations across Europe leave from the main bus station (ZOB) near the Hauptbahnhof. There’s a Touring/Eurolines office nearby. Flixbus (www.flixbus.com) links Nuremberg with countless destinations in Germany and beyond. Special Deutsche Bahn express coaches to Prague (from €10, 3½ hours, seven daily) leave from the ZOB.
TRAIN
Nuremberg is connected by train to Berlin (from €80, three to 3½ hours, hourly), Frankfurt (€30 to €60, 2¼ hours, at least hourly), Hamburg (from €80, 4½ hours, hourly) and Munich (€40 and €60, one hour, twice hourly). Services also go to Cheb (€34, 1¾ hours, every two hours), for connections to Prague, and Vienna (from €90, four to 5½ hours, every two hours).
8GETTING AROUND
The best transport around the Altstadt is at the end of your legs. Timed tickets on the VGN bus, tram and U-Bahn/S-Bahn networks cost from €1.30. A day pass costs €8.10. Passes bought on Saturday are valid all weekend.