CHAPTER THREE
TOP, SLICE, AND FILL
MAKE DINNER FUN WITH FRESH TAKES ON PIZZA, SANDWICHES, AND TACOS.
Spring Vegetable Galette
ACTIVE 40 MIN
TOTAL 2 HR
SERVES 4
A galette is just a fancy name for a free-form pie, and this savory one features an easy homemade crust piled high with beautiful spring veggies.
DOUGH
1¼ cups all-purpose flour
¾ tsp. each of kosher salt and pepper
1 stick unsalted butter, frozen
⅓ cup ice water
Milk, for brushing
TOPPINGS
3 medium carrots, thinly sliced on the diagonal
4 oz. baby red potatoes, very thinly sliced
4 oz. medium asparagus (¼ bunch), trimmed and cut into 1½-in. lengths
4 large scallions, cut into 1½-in. lengths
1½ Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
½ tsp. grated lemon zest
Kosher salt and pepper
½ cup quark or sour cream
2 Tbsp. freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1. Make the dough In a large bowl, whisk flour with salt and pepper. Working over bowl, grate butter on large holes of a box grater. Toss butter in flour to distribute evenly. Stir in ice water until evenly moistened. Scrape dough out onto a work surface, gather up any crumbs and knead gently just until dough comes together. Shape into a disk, wrap in plastic and refrigerate until well chilled, about 1 hour.
2. Preheat oven to 450°F. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out dough to a 14-inch round. Slide pastry onto a parchment paper–lined rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate for 15 minutes.
3. Prepare the toppings In a large bowl, toss vegetables, oil, and lemon zest. Season with salt and pepper. In a small bowl, whisk quark and Parmesan; spread on pastry, leaving a 1½-inch border. Scatter vegetables on quark. Fold pastry edge up and over vegetables to create a 1½-inch border. Brush edge of pastry with milk.
4. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until pastry is browned and crisp and vegetables are tender. Let cool slightly, cut into wedges and serve warm.
No 14 WEEKNIGHT GENIUS TIP
A box grater is my quick cheat for cutting cold butter into flour for the flakiest pastry.
STEP 1 Shred a frozen stick of butter on the large holes of a box grater.
STEP 2 Toss the grated butter in flour. Stir in ice water.
STEP 3 Gently knead the dough on a work surface just until it comes together. Shape the dough into a disk, wrap in plastic and refrigerate until well chilled.
Hummus and Salad Pizza
ACTIVE 30 MIN
TOTAL 45 MIN
MAKES ONE 12-INCH PIZZA
In this fun dish, I bake store-bought pizza dough until it’s warm and crisp, then spread it with hummus and top with a bright tangle of lemony greens and herbs.
1 lb. pizza dough
Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing and drizzling
1 cup mesclun greens
1 cup parsley leaves
1 cup mint leaves
1 cup snipped pea shoots, sunflower sprouts or purslane
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 cup prepared hummus, at room temperature
Flaky sea salt and pepper
Shredded ricotta salata, for serving
1. Preheat oven to 450° F for at least 30 minutes. On a large rimmed baking sheet, stretch and pull dough to a 14-inch-long oval and brush with olive oil. Bake for about 15 minutes, until crust is puffed and browned.
2. In a bowl, toss mesclun with parsley, mint, pea shoots, and lemon juice. Spread hummus on hot crust. Pile salad on pizza and season with flaky sea salt and pepper. Drizzle with olive oil and top with shredded ricotta salata. Cut into slices and serve right away.
Buffalo Chicken Calzones
ACTIVE 20 MIN
TOTAL 45 MIN
SERVES 4
Combine chopped rotisserie chicken with a buttery Buffalo sauce and bake it into a calzone with Monterey Jack cheese.
½ cup Buffalo sauce, preferably Frank’s RedHot
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 lb. shredded rotisserie chicken (4 cups)
1 lb. pizza dough, halved
1 cup shredded Monterey Jack (4 oz.)
Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing
Flaky sea salt and coarse black pepper
Blue cheese dressing and celery, for serving
1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment. In a saucepan, combine buffalo sauce and butter and simmer over medium until butter is melted, 3 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and stir in chicken.
2. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out 1 piece of dough to a 10-inch round. Transfer to one side of prepared baking sheet. Spoon half of the chicken on one half of dough round and top with half of the cheese. Fold dough over filling. Moisten edge with water, then crimp to seal. Cut 3 slits in top, then brush with olive oil and season with flaky salt and black pepper. Repeat to make one more calzone.
3. Bake calzones for about 20 minutes, until crust is golden. Let stand for 5 minutes, then serve with blue cheese dressing and celery.
Feta-Brined Chicken Sandwiches
ACTIVE 30 MIN
TOTAL 1 HR
SERVES 4
The secret to incredibly flavorful chicken cutlets is a quick marinade in feta brine in advance of grilling. Then I whip the feta cheese with lemon juice and olive oil to use as a spread for these excellent sandwiches.
½ lb. feta, crumbled, plus ¾ cup of the brine
1 Tbsp. Louisiana-style hot sauce, preferably Tabasco
Four 4-oz. chicken cutlets
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
Kosher salt and pepper
Four 6-in. ciabatta rolls, split and toasted
Arugula (not baby), sliced cucumber, red onion, and seeded piquillo peppers, for serving
1. In a large resealable plastic bag, mix feta brine and hot sauce. Add chicken cutlets, seal bag, and turn to coat. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, in a food processor, pulse feta cheese and lemon juice. Slowly blend in ⅓ cup oil until smooth. Season with salt and pepper.
3. Preheat a grill pan. Remove chicken from brine and pat dry; discard brine. Brush with oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill cutlets over medium-high, turning once, until cooked through, about 5 minutes total.
4. Spread rolls with some of the feta. Top with chicken, arugula, cucumber, onion and peppers and serve.
WINE Floral Chenin Blanc from California: 2014 Lang & Reed.
Fried Green Tomato and Okra Po’boys with Smoked-Fish Vinaigrette
TOTAL 1 HR
SERVES 4
Add surprising flavor and richness to these fun fried okra and tomato po’boys with a delicious fish vinaigrette featuring smoked whitefish.
¼ lb. smoked whitefish
3 Tbsp. olive oil
2 Tbsp. Champagne vinegar
2 Tbsp. water
2 Tbsp. minced chives, plus snipped for garnish
Kosher salt and pepper
1½ cups all-purpose flour
1½ cups fine cornmeal
2 large eggs
2 unripe green tomatoes, sliced ¼ in. thick
12 small okra (4 oz.)
Canola oil, for frying
4 hoagie rolls, tops split and toasted
Lettuce, pickled red onion and hot sauce, for serving
1. In a food processor, puree smoked fish, olive oil, and vinegar with 2 tablespoons water until smooth. Scrape into a bowl, stir in chives, and season with salt and pepper.
2. Put flour and cornmeal in 2 separate shallow bowls and season with salt and pepper. In another bowl, beat eggs and season with salt and pepper. Dip tomato slices in flour, then in egg, then in cornmeal, pressing to help it adhere. Transfer slices to a wax paper–lined baking sheet. Dip okra in flour, then in egg, then in cornmeal, pressing to help it adhere. Transfer okra to baking sheet.
3. In a large skillet, heat ¼ inch canola oil until shimmering. In batches, fry tomatoes and okra over medium-high until crisp, 3 minutes for okra and 5 minutes for tomatoes. Transfer to paper towels to drain.
4. Spread vinaigrette in rolls and fill with lettuce, fried green tomatoes, okra, and pickled onion. Top with chives and serve with hot sauce.
Tex-Mex Flour Tortillas
ACTIVE 55 MIN
TOTAL 1 HR 25 MIN
MAKES 2 DOZEN
One of the great unsung foods of my childhood was soft, chewy flour tortillas—the kind found at everyday grocery stores. I still adore them as an adult, though these days I prefer to make them at home. I’ve learned the trick to foolproof flour tortillas is using all-vegetable shortening, which yields a forgiving, easy-to-work-with dough that remains tender, plus baking powder, which gives them that fluffy texture that brings back memories. These tortillas remain fresh-tasting even after a few days when stored at room temperature.
4 cups all-purpose flour (about 17 oz.)
2 tsp. baking powder
2 tsp. kosher salt
½ cup all-vegetable shortening (such as Crisco)
1¼ cups water
1. Whisk together flour, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. Add shortening; using your fingertips, incorporate into flour mixture until evenly combined. Add 1¼ cups water; mix with your hands until a sticky dough forms. Turn dough out onto an unfloured work surface. Using the heel of your hand, smear dough across work surface in a 10-inch-long layer. Using a bench scraper, scrape dough back into a ball. Repeat smearing and scraping process until dough becomes smooth and slightly sticky, about 5 minutes. Cut dough into 24 pieces (about 1¼ ounces each). Roll dough pieces into balls, and transfer to a baking sheet. Cover with plastic wrap; let stand at room temperature 30 minutes.
2. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over high until skillet is smoking; reduce heat to medium-low. Working with one dough ball at a time, roll dough out on an unfloured work surface to a very thin 7½-inch circle. (Dough will stick to work surface.) Carefully peel dough off work surface; transfer to hot skillet. Cook until lightly browned in spots and pliable, 20 to 30 seconds per side. Wrap tortillas in a kitchen towel. Repeat process with remaining dough balls.
No 15 WEEKNIGHT GENIUS TIP
To make the best tortillas, work all-vegetable shortening into flour with your fingertips to make tortillas tender but chewy.
Quesadizzas
TOTAL 25 MIN
SERVES 2 TO 4
The tortilla pizza of late college nights is all grown up. This marriage of quesadilla and pizza gets a spicy kick from jalapeño-laced pepper Jack cheese and garlicky Portuguese linguiça sausage.
1 Tbsp. canola oil
4 Tex-Mex Flour Tortillas (recipe at left), divided
6 Tbsp. jarred marinara sauce, divided
6 oz. pepper Jack cheese, shredded (about 1½ cups), divided
½ cup thinly sliced linguiça or Spanish chorizo (about 2 oz.)
Grated Parmesan cheese, dried oregano, and crushed red pepper, for serving
1. Preheat broiler with oven rack 8 inches from heat. Heat a cast-iron griddle over two burners on stovetop over medium; brush with oil. Place 2 tortillas in a single layer on hot griddle. Spread 2 tablespoons marinara sauce on each tortilla. Scatter ½ cup pepper Jack cheese over marinara on each; top with remaining 2 tortillas. Cook until crisp and lightly browned on bottoms, about 3 minutes. Flip quesadizzas. Spread remaining 2 tablespoons marinara sauce evenly over quesadizzas, and sprinkle evenly with remaining ½ cup pepper Jack cheese. Arrange linguiça slices evenly over quesadizzas.
2. Transfer quesadizzas to a rimmed baking sheet. Broil in preheated oven until cheese is melted and linguiça is slightly curled, 1 to 2 minutes.
3. Slice quesadizzas into wedges. Serve with Parmesan, oregano, and crushed red pepper.
BEER Mexican-style craft lager: Oskar Blues Brewery Beerito.
Steak-and-Carrot Tacos
ACTIVE 15 MIN
TOTAL 40 MIN
SERVES 4 TO 6
Just about everything served in a tortilla is better—even carrots. Here, small carrots are roasted with fragrant cumin seeds and served in warm homemade tortillas with juicy, meaty skirt steak.
1 lb. small multicolored carrots, halved lengthwise if large
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 tsp. cumin seeds
1¾ tsp. kosher salt, divided
½ tsp. black pepper, divided
1 (1¼-lb.) skirt steak, cut crosswise into 4 even pieces
Tex-Mex Flour Tortillas, warmed
Sour cream, fresh cilantro leaves, thinly sliced jalapeños, and lime wedges, for serving
1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Toss together carrots, 2 tablespoons oil, cumin seeds, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper on a large rimmed baking sheet; spread in an even layer on half of baking sheet. Roast in preheated oven until carrots are lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Remove from oven.
2. Brush steak evenly with remaining 1 tablespoon oil; sprinkle with remaining 1 teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Arrange steak evenly on empty half of baking sheet. Return to oven; roast at 450°F until carrots are tender and a thermometer inserted in thickest portion of steak registers 125°F, about 7 minutes. Transfer steak to a cutting board; let rest 5 minutes. Thinly slice against the grain.
3. Divide steak slices and carrots among warm tortillas. Serve with sour cream, cilantro, jalapeños, and lime wedges.
WINE Rich, fruity, Napa Valley Zinfandel: 2016 Frank Family Vineyards.
Chicken Tinga Tacos
ACTIVE 40 MIN
TOTAL 1 HR 30 MIN
SERVES 6
Great for busy weeknights, the chicken tinga mixture can be prepared ahead and refrigerated for up to 2 days. Reheat mixture gently before spooning into the taco shells.
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 white onion, thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, sliced
1½ tsp. cumin seeds
1½ tsp. ground coriander
2 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth
14 oz. tomato puree
1 oregano sprig
2 bay leaves
4½ lbs. skinless whole chicken legs
Twelve 5-in. flour tortillas
3 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar
Kosher salt and pepper
Cilantro leaves, lime wedges, and sliced red onion, for serving
1. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat olive oil. Add onion, garlic, cumin, and coriander and cook over medium until onion is softened, about 5 minutes. Add stock, tomato puree, oregano, and bay leaves and bring to a boil. Add chicken, cover partially and simmer until cooked through, 35 to 40 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 400° F. In batches, fold tortillas in half and stuff them between the upturned cups of an inverted muffin tin to form shells. Bake for 15 minutes, until crisp.
3. Remove chicken from sauce and shred meat. Return meat to the sauce and simmer for 10 minutes. Discard bay leaves and oregano sprig. Stir in vinegar and season with salt and pepper. Serve chicken tinga in taco shells with cilantro, lime wedges, and onion.
No 16 WEEKNIGHT GENIUS TIP
To make taco shells, fold tortillas in half and stuff them between the cups of an inverted muffin pan. Bake until crisp.
Brat-and-Pepper Tacos
TOTAL 30 MIN
SERVES 4
Reimagine Italian sausage-and-pepper subs as bratwurst-and-pepper tacos topped with crunchy cabbage. Awesome!
¾ lb. bratwurst, halved lengthwise and sliced crosswise into ⅓-in.-thick pieces
2 Cubanelle peppers—halved, seeded and sliced
2 poblano chiles—halved, seeded and sliced
1 red bell pepper—halved, seeded and sliced
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and pepper
½ cup sour cream
¼ cup whole-grain mustard
12 corn tortillas, warmed
Pickled red cabbage and freshly grated horseradish, for serving
1. Preheat oven to 425° F. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss bratwurst with peppers and olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast for about 20 minutes, until sausage is browned and peppers are tender.
2. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix sour cream with mustard. Spread mustard cream on tortillas and fill with bratwurst and peppers. Top with pickled red cabbage and grated horseradish. Serve right away.
BEER lightly hoppy pilsner: Victory Prima Pils.