Harriet Talcott Buckingham
INTRODUCTION
A major problem with the diary of Harriet Talcott Buckingham is that there are two diaries that cover essentially the same journey over the Oregon Trail.
One of the diaries is written in pencil in a small journal typical of the time. It is artless. There was no attempt to make what we would call a “production” of it. It covers the dates May 12 through August 15, 1851. We call it Document A.
The second diary is written neatly in ink in a larger book, and it covers the dates May 4 through September 26, 1851. We have labelled this one Document B. Both journals are in Harriet Buckingham’s hand.
It is our theory that the small pencilled book is the original, done day by day on the wagon or in camp. There may have been three of these little books done in pencil, or else there were loose pages before and after the core of the diary, which we have here.
Later on—just when, we don’t know—Harriet sought to produce a more polished copy of her overland journal, possibly for publication. She revised her original into a more finished piece, adding a long segment about their stay in Salt Lake City, a segment that is not found in the first journal.
The question naturally arises for the editor: What shall we do with these diaries? Our solution has been to use the original diary, Document A, as the central record of our copy. Where the original prelude and postlude of Document A are missing, we have used Document B.
The manuscripts of both of these versions of Harriet Buckingham’s hand-written diaries are in the collection of the Oregon Historical Society in Portland, and we are grateful for permission to publish what follows.
Harriet Talcott Buckingham was born on March 31, 1832, in Norwalk, Ohio. She celebrated her nineteenth birthday early in the journey with her uncle and aunt, Hiram and Hannah, as they pursued the long trail to Oregon. Henry, her brother, two years younger, was also along. The teenagers were particularly fortunate in having their uncle as a guide, since Hiram Smith had already made one trip over the plains to Oregon in 1846 and then had returned east to recruit a party of settlers.
Upon arrival in Oregon, Harriet was wooed for a few months by a vigorous Portland businessman, Samuel A. Clarke. On February 23, 1852, they were married. Her life was one of excitement with this partner who was a sometime poet, prolific writer, successful editor, as well as an entrepreneur in railroading, mining, and farming. He was editor for one year of the Portland Oregonian, and for three years of the Salem Statesman. He is most renowned today for his two-volume history of Oregon, Pioneer Days of Oregon History, published in the year of the Lewis and Clark Centennial, 1905, by J. K. Gill Company, which is even now a major bookselling concern in the region.
This book was published after the passing of Harriet, who died on January 27, 1890. Samuel’s tribute to her in the “Preface” of Pioneer Days is a classic in emotional expression, and we publish it here in full:
My work as a writer had the encouragement and assistance that association and inspiration with another soul can afford, and for forty years had depended on. She, who had aided and inspired whatever success had been attained, planned that we should work together to mould the historical labors of the past into connected form. It was a beautiful suggestion, that our labors should close with such effort, and the result remains a joint tribute for posterity. Death sundered that alliance and left me for years discouraged as well as suffering from nervous prostration. But there comes to me, after all these years of waiting, the ambition to complete the work as she had planned it; to leave the product as an humble monument to the past of which it will treat, also as a remembrance of the lovely character and beautiful soul of the woman whose life was blended with mine, and was a blessing to all who knew her. (p. vii).
Samuel and Harriet Clarke had four children, three daughters and a son. They are listed in the 1870 Federal Census of Oregon as Minnie, Hattie, William J., and Sarah A. It was Sarah (Mrs. Sarah A. Dyer of Salem) who presented a vast collection of family materials to the Oregon Historical Society in Portland, and among these, Harriet’s manuscript diaries are found.
The editor would like to acknowledge three sources that have been invaluable in understanding the Buckingham/ Clarke manuscripts: The most helpful biography of Samuel Clarke, with particular emphasis upon his life with Harriet, is to be found in Alfred Powers’ massive book, History of Oregon Literature (Portland, 1935). There is a second source, a manuscript book on the shelves of the Oregon Historical Society that was particularly helpful: It is a multi-person production of a thesis, “Diary of Harriette T. Buckingham,” done by eleven students in a history class of Professor Allan H. Kittell at Lewis and Clark College in Portland. The diary they chose to edit as a “final examination and as a reward for its young authors” was what we have called Document B, the more polished of the two journals. The editor commends creative teachers of this kind who would give such an intriguing “final exam.” The last source, in the Bancroft Library (Berkeley, California), was an interview done by Mrs. Hubert Howe Bancroft and Amos Bowman, for the historian Hubert Howe Bancroft. The interview was with Mrs. H. T. Clarke in “Salem, Oregon, Sunday, June 16th, 1878.” This is an early example of what we call “oral history.” The editor used this valuable record called “Young Woman’s Sights on the Oregon Trail” as a resource.
THE DIARY OF
HARRIET TALCOTT BUCKINGHAM
[DOCUMENT B]
May 4 Crossed the Missouri at Council Bluffs, where we had been a couple of weeks making the final preparations on this outskirt of civilization
The weather has been mild, and we have walked evry day over the rolling hills around—one day found a young physician and his wife who were interested in examining the numerous skulls and human bones that were found near the surface of the ground. After much speculation the fact was elucidated that, large tribes of Indians from the middle states had been pushed off by our government to this frontier region to make room for white settlers, and had here perished in large numbers by starvation consequent upon removal from familiar hunting grounds: they had been buried in large trenches with heads to the east. Skulls were thick: of peculiar shape differeing from the Anglo Saxon type.
We number seven wagons—one carriage, a large band of oxen & cows, horses & mules—the latter are for the carriage—oxen for the wagons. Mrs Smith myself and a little girl occupy the carriage—we have a driver—Mr Smith rides a little black mule that is very intelligent & a pet with him.
There are drivers for the wagons and loose stock. Mr E. N. Cooke & family1 have a nice carriage & about the same equipment. Mr Hiram Smith2 has crossed the plains twice before & so knows how to do it Mr Smith & Cooke travel together intending to go by the way of Salt Lake City for the purpose of selling to the Mormons Goods & Groceries with which most of the wagons are loaded so we make quite a cavalcade as we slowly move along. We have tents & small cook stoves.
Mr & Mrs Smith have had the carriage so arranged that a bed can be made of the seats, & when the curtains. are all buttoned down there is a comfitable sleeping apartment The little girl & I sleep in one of the big covered ox wagons in which is a nice bed—really makes a cosy little low roffed room, it has a double cover—Mr Smith has a coop fastened on behind the carriage which contains some fine white chickens—three hens and a rooster. We let them out evry time we camp, and already they seem to know when preperations are made for moving & will fly up to their place in the coop. Mr & Mrs Cooke have a niece Miss Brewster,3 & a little daughter, an uncle & a young gentlman Mr T. McF Patton,4 with them, so we have a nice little society of our own.
May 5 We are now travelling through the country of the Omaha Indians. They demand toll for passing so Mr Smith promises them a feast, & they have sent sumners [summoners?] out to bring in all the tribe who are not already out Buffalo hunting
[May] 6” Hosts of the Indians have arrived on Indians Ponies. Squaws & little Pappooses—young men in the glory of fine feathrs paint & skins—their war costume, for they are just now about to go to fight the Pawnees. The girls who are in the market are most grotesqely painted in vermillion & Green—they have not yet assumed the cast off garments of white people—
The Calf which Mr Smith & Cooke gave them was killed and eaten even to the very entrails, some hard Bread was given to them too.
In the evening they gave us a war dance by an immense fire, that lit up the wiered [wierd] hob goblin scene—their fiendish yells, as they tossed their arms about and swung the gory scalps just taken from their enemis, the Soux: helped to give the whole affair an informal aspect.
Old women sat squatted on the ground chattering & screaming their delight at the sight of evry freshly shown scalp
Not till morning did quiet come, then when we were ready to move we missed the mother of the calf—which was soon found tied in the brush some distance off. it required some nerve to take the animal away from them, who outnumbered us
II May The Platte river is beutiful here—many islands dot the stream & are covered with cotton wood trees—
We ladies went to visit some Indian Graves near here & were piloted by Mr Patton. Some of the graves were larger than others, all were mounds from five to six feet in highth. Earth & stones heaped up in a conical shape
The Indians were so hungry & persistent—They levy tribute on all who pass—do not always get anything—but it is wise to do so as they will stampede the cattle some dark night if not well treated
[DOCUMENT A]
Monday, May 12 This is a beautiful day pleasant sunshine after rain makes us feel cheerful. We cannot cross as the water is so high. Our boys are now making a bridge Six Indians stopped with us last night. We gave them supper & breakfast.
Tuesday May [13] We were quickly wakened this morning by the singing of the Indians. Our men all went to work with the three other companies building a bridge. It was completed by afternoon when we crossed. It is a matter of surprise that over 500 head of cattle, & fifty wagons should cross without accident The Waggons were all drawn over by hand & the cattle & horses swam. This day was pleasant we encamped a mile from the creek The Evening was delightful the moon shone so Clearly but before morning, it clouded up & one of the most terrifine storms I ever witnessed. The heavens seemed to be opened The rain fell in torrents The lightning was most vivid. We were obliged to move as soon as possible for fear of being overflown Our cattle was skatered miles around us. they were not together till nine Oclock when we traveled on some 3 miles in water up to the axeltrees. The 13 & 14 of May will long be remembered by this bunch of Oregonians We still continued on for we wished to be in advance of so large a company We did not leave our former camping ground as soon as the other company & consequently ran far behind We pushed on amid most terrifine thunder & lightning & passed the other companies in five miles, when we camped on the open Pararie. I had often read and heard of the Platt river storms & we realized it beyond the most vivid description
June 1 This is the first day of summer. beautiful day went 27 miles. Mr S & Mr Patton crossed to the south side, to call upon other emigrants from Mr Cranston’s Cy5 & Mr. Knight6 They had had a severe hail storm at the same time that we were upon the island it fell there 10 inches. Camped upon a fine creek The clearest water we have yet had since we left: Crossed the Missouri. The Pararie is covered with beautiful little flowers. Whose fragrance surpassed any garden flowers. There is a modest little white flower which peeps up among the green grass. Which particularly strikes my fancy. I call it the Pararie Flower Autumn sun will bring the more gorgeous flowers
Jun 2 Came 23 miles camping near the Platt—opposite—McFarlans Castle. From here it has the appearance of a splendid castle a huge mass of stone It takes its name from a man who was murdered here by the Soux. At about noon we passed Ancient Bluff ruins Mr & Mrs Cook, Sue, Tom, Joe & I climbed the highest ruin which commanded a fine view of the country.
This is of Solid Rock with five scraggy gnarled cedars, Throwing their twisted arms over the overhanging precapice Many a name was carved with knife upon the bark We left our names upon a Buffalo bone which lay bleaching upon the top from the river it presents the appearance of a fortified city falling to decay, but the nearer you draw nigh the illusion valishes. Thornton7 speaks of this, though he went upon the south side he crossed to see it his description is vivid from our camp we see Chimny Rock which is 10 miles from the Castle. It is 600 feet high. Whoever has read the Pararie Flower & Leni Leoti8 will see that it is spoken of as a spot of eventful meaning very poor grass
June 3 Cattle wandered. We consequently did not leave camp till late, fine day & good roads John spilled over his wagon, soon after we started but soon picked up again passed several small sheets of water which looked tempting but Death was lurking there in its limpid waters Today an antelope stood close by the road side so that I could see it quite distinctly it was a beautiful little creature. It gazed at us for a moment & then bounded away to the Bluffs Came 17 miles & encamped upon the Platt three miles from the main road. Which we left for better grass & to avoid the alkeli water which stands in pools on the road. The ground is encrusted with this substance saw two indian Lodges near us of the Ceyeon tribe [Cheyenne]
Chimney Rock is opposite our camp & Scotts Bluff in view ahead so named from an Indian trader by that name whose party had been robbed of their provisions & this one fell sick & desparing of ever reaching his home & family pursuaded his companions to leave him. He was left some miles from this place but some years afterwards human bones were found at this spot & it was supposed that he had crawled here to die
June 4 Made 16 miles & camped upon Spring Creek.
June 5 Started at six made 10 miles & nooned upon the banks of the Platt. The Prickly Pear, & a species of the Cactus grow in quantities by the road side Modest sweet little flowers are springing up among the grass an hour and a half after noon a violent hailstorm arose & we were obliged to lay by some time Came 18 miles. Camped upon the Platt our vision was delighted with the view of a few small trees that grew upon the banks for they tell strongly of good cheer after having to cook so long with Buffalo Chips For 200 miles we have no wood. Bluffs are not so high on the south—more sandy, rainy & unpleasant.
June 6 Started early road by the first of the day over level plains Nooned upon Raw Hide Creek In the afternoon passed three companies travel rocky passed the fort in front of which was a Soux village of some hundred Lodges & great numbers of ponies. The squaws were just herding them in as we passed They are a smarter race than either the Omahas or pawnees Could not find grass & came 27 miles camped at nine near Mr Kinneys camp9 five miles from the fort.10 Bluffs still continue ever higher and more rocky with a few stunted pines & cedars. Small wood upon the banks of the river
[June] 7 Our road to day lies over high river bluffs steep precipitous patches most beautiful rugged scenery. Mountains covered with a growth of cedar & pine. Nooned between two high hills or almost mountains where was a beautiful spring of water. Giles11 & I led the horses down to the spring & then washed our faces in the cool stream It was refreshing on that warm day. Road still was very bad steep & rocky. Camped near a beautiful grotto where Sue and I discovered under the rocks a little spring whose water dripped so slowly upon the stone basin under several gigantic cedar trees Their thin branches over The grape vine too was twining above, forming a complete arch. It was a delightful little spot.
Sunday [June] 8 A warm beautiful day Scenery more tame can still see Laramie Peak which has been in sight five days Nooned near a small brook where Sue & I as usual ventured upon a voyage of discovery found our garden Larkspr flowering currant choke cherry in great abundance Wild sage in great abundance camped near a small creek. do not know how far we came
[June] 9 Another beautiful day of warm sunshine. The pure air of the mountain breeze is so invigorating. Rode to day upon horse back We have again struck the Platt, but were not in sight of it in the afternoon. Road is now level We were nearly three days crossing these Black Hills. They are a spur of the Rocky mountains We could not find grass & water & as night drew on were upon the point of camping with out water & poor grass for our teams had had a hard drive & were weary, but after a short consultation it was thought best to travel on & find water too The moon now shown brightly—Our road lay through the belt of a mountan forest Camped upon the Platt at 10 oclock. (All cross)
[June] 10 started early. Most tremendous horrid barren hills “The heathey hills of Scotland will not bear comparison” so sais “Uncle Ed”12 broke our buggy but not so bad as to be fixed. Camped early upon the Platt a pretty spot good grass wild sage in abundance
II June our road to day lay more upon the level high banks of the river. made 17 miles & camped 2 miles from where the south road crosses & comes upon the north, we are in sight of the ferry where a company is now crossing camped again upon the muddy Platt, in a thick grove of cottonwood on one side & the Black Hills sloping to the right. Prickly Pear in great abundance. Very dusty. Upon these hills is manufactured the storms which are driven down upon the river & forms the Platt river storms so much noted by trevelers. One of our boys found a coal bed yest[erda]y I think this part of the country can never be settled for the scarcity of timber There are but few trees upon the Platt & those in patches & entirely of cotton wood, (sick at heart) Mr Cook lost a cow, The first loss yet. Other companies that we have passed complain of lame cattle, sore feet &c. we have passed the horse company that ferried the Loup Fork just before we did & made their boasts that they would see Oregon two months before any other company we passed them four days ago.
12 of June Made 23 miles road was fine reminded me of the macadamised road from Bellevue to Perrysburg [Ohio] our camp last night was a delightful spot It was a luxurient grove of cotton wood & as we sat under their grateful shade we thought that we could now appreciate our own lofty forest trees. The Eglantine & mountain currant formed a dense undergrowth we now begin to see bestricken, broken waggons, stoves, lanterns, & indeed almost everything that could be well dispensed with high rolling bluffs coverd with the wild sage, nooned in a cotton wood grove. Many of the trees were peeled of their bark & names of many emigrants upon their white trunks told of the effects of the California mines.
Friday 13 June Started early for we were to make a long drive so as to pass through the alkeli regions to do which we were to travel 32 miles. To day we bid farewell to the Platt which from here presents a strikingly picturesque appearance. We have followed its windings more than 500 [700?—not clear] miles, & are loth to part with it. We could always see its waters glistning in the sun as it flowed so quietly by our side. From the higher bluffs it looks like a silver thread binding the base of the hills. But good bye, Shall we ever meet again? Here at this point, the morman trail crosses the river. I suppose that their object in thus ferrying twice is to avoid those formidable Black Hills passed at 4 through what must have been the crater of an old volcano, huge rocks lay in upturned masses by the road & in such unnatural positions that some voilen convulsion of nature must have produced these results. Soon after passing this we came to the first alkili spring the cattle were rushed through & some tasted it, but the bones that lay bleaching upon its banks testified to its poisonous qualities scattered along for many miles we saw these bones. We passed the other also without the cattle drinking. at nine we came to good water, & camped upon Willow Creek. Cattle very tired, no grass
[June] 14 Early we left & went six miles & camped some ways from the road, upon waggon creek, so called from the quantity of waggons which must have been left, left by last years Californians here we stop to rest the rest of the day
[June] 15 At noon found us underneath Independence Rock, from the distance it has the appearance of an oblong sand hill of no great dimensions, but as you approach nearer we find it a stupendous mass of granite standing isolated between two ranges of mountains (for I suppose they might be so called.) The Sweet Water runs at its left, I think it is some 120 feet high. I looked in vain amid that medly of names engraven & written upon its sides for one familiar one. It ought to be called the Sweet Water register—I walked I suppose a mile upon the north side, and seeing the names still as numerous as when I first started gave up the search. But I had hoped to see Patricks or b—r sturges Fremonts name still there We that is Sue [and] myself for Cook & Gibs13 left our cards upon the highest peak for Mr Williams of Ill. & Mr. Black. We spent a pleasant afternoon in rambling over the rocks & in the cool fissures which we found, for it was an exceedingly warm day. Towards night we bid adieu to it. I was riding “Tamir.” Went five miles further—& passed the Devils Gate & Gap. The first is a wild opening through the mountin about ¼ of a mile long of rugged appearance. Much I saw was of 2 parts. Many names engraved here also. The gap is a narrow opening of but few feet through which the Sweet Water runs, it is but a short distance from the first. The water is good in this stream,—In the forenoon we visited the dried bed of an alkeli lake. from the road it seemed like a patch of snow it was of such brilliant whiteness we found it quite thick & is good for use. We went two miles from the gate & camped under a massive rock, solid granite & some 500 feet high. Mountin sheep here. I have seen a many of horned toads, they are very poisonous. They are of the size of our common toad, but more resembling a lizzard of a greenish colour. Roads good & hard. The gravel hurts oxen feet. Larkspur abundant –
Monday 16 June Came 8 miles today and camped again upon the Sweet Water. Its water is slightly impregnated with alkeli. High rocks of granite upon our right—within firs scrubby pines & cedars, grow in crevices where a little soil had accumulated. F Cook discovered something which risembled gold dust but I think it is some other mineral substance gravely roads, rather warm cattle. feet rather sore Called at Johnsons camp whose name might be seen upon evry bleaching skull board & stone good grass. Wild sage here grows luxuriously almost small trees which makes good fires. There is another little shrub intermixed with the sage called grease wood it looks like cedar, but its leaves are very tender & has a disagreeable smell of grease & turpentine—
17 of June fine day, roads hard & gravly wending between granite hill to our right, sand upon our left. since we struck the Black Hills there has been no good grass unless upon the bank of some stream. Grease wood, sage & wild mustard predominate In the morning the ground is pearley white with a blossom resembling the portulacca camped upon the Sweet water which we forded. our camp ground lay between high granite Rocks.
Wednesday 18 Twas soon after we left camp we again forded the stream & soon reforded it—this was quite deep above the waggon beds. This might be avoided by crossing in another place. The rocks here as well as in every other prominant place bear the names of many who have crossed before This afternoon we saw the Wind River Mountains 70 miles distant covered with perpetual snow.
It looked novel upon this warm day to see snow apparently but few miles distant. The atmosphere here is so clear, that distances & objects are very deceiving came 9 miles & camped upon the Sweet water which we again forded some distance from the main road. Last eve Mr Smith Cook & Marvin14 had gone hunting & were to meet us they did not get to camp till afternoon tired & sick killed one deer & antelope little grass boys went hunting
Thursday [June] 19 Sruck our tents early for we had 16 miles sandy desert to pass without water, though there is an Ice spring ¼ of a mile from the road. it lies under the sod & can be dug in large pieces & very clear too. It is singular that it did not melt, it was so warm—Mr Smith was taken sick Mrs S. got off the horse & I had to ride alone. We camp upon the Sweet water. Made 14 miles.
Friday [June 20] Day was very windy & dusty. I rode all day 20 miles. passed at noon Rocky Ridge. I had just begun to realize that we were upon the rocky mts for it was very rough for a few miles. I do not realize my anticipations in that respect for I had expected to see it rugged mountainous & difficult passes but on the contrary, I should think myself upon a high rolling pararie. The soil is sandy & much gravel mixed with it, roads hard & good Met two returning Cal trains. Crossed many streams but found grass all eaten off. Went further than we expected to Camped upon Willow Creek where were already two other companies. passed several snow banks. The ground upon which we camped was a carpet of flowers mountan moss just in bloom, & small purple flowers sent up a rich perfume. Pleasant but cold nights.
Saturday [June 21] Pleasant, cool mountan breeze road lay over rolling sandy bluffs, covered with wild sage at noon we passed the dividing ridge which separates the water which flows into the atlantic from the pacific. In a short time we came to the Pacific springs where we had expected to camp but it was already full.
Passed the Twin mounds which are the opening to the great mountan pass Came five miles beyond pass & camped upon Pacific Creek, rode 19 miles road good, we every day see many bones of horses & oxen who have been left.
Sunday [June 22] This morning after herding in the cattle found one which was much crippled in the hind quarters. boys drove it some ways & were obliged to shoot it The flesh was yellow & green, had been bitten by a snake. Keeler15 was taken sick last night & is now very unwell was doubful whether to proceed. He was put into the carriage. I rode horse all day. No water but one alkeli stream, passed many dry beds of this about noon we came to the junction of the Salt Lake & Oregon roads here Mr S took in a Mr. Brown16 an old gentleman. Came 23 miles & camped upon a fine spot excellent grass wood & water. Willows grow upon the banks. T. sold sugar to some Cal—for 50 cts cup ful, Ten ds. Box. The scenry is not as I had anticipated so level.
Monday [June 23] To day we laid over for cattle, as well as men needed rest. S is better. Condit17 is a convelescent. Keeler better but Mrs S. was taken very sick indeed. Mountan fever, Several alkeli springs here. there are frogs in the ponds, talk a different language from our common ones. The creek is very crooked. It is called, little Sandy The night that we were upon the mountans water froze an inch thick we have cold nights & the mornings but warm dys. Snow capped mountans upon our right, Wind river range Two Indians passed our tents the first we have seen for many hundred miles.
Tuesday [June 24] Came 7 miles & camped upon the big Sandy good grass Company of returning Cal. camped with us. Mrs S better. Her & I wrote home by them. to day we passed a small grove of trees where hung an Indian wrapped in his robes & blankets. This is the method of burial among this tribe (crows) his arrows & bows were placed around his head.
[June] 25 Came 17 miles across a desert no grass or water. Roads quite stony several ascents nothing grows but grease wood & wild sage & something resembling Camomile. [Two unreadable words] upon the banks of the stream.
We have left the first range of wind river mounts & see upon the north & west we catch a glimpse of the snow capped mountains. It is very warm about two hours in the day This day at last we came in sight of the formidable Green River which we have so much dreaded. There is a good ferry boat—kept by Mormons & worked by French & Indian half breeds Mrs S. & I visited the wigwams after we crossed. disgusting looking beings. by each tent was made a shade of brush in which they cook, using the former for sleeping. In one shady bower was an old squaw one dog & four puppies & a calf, above hung cups & other dishes used for culnary purposes Came 14 miles & camped upon Green river gravly roads, wild sage & grease wood, poor grass uncomfortable times. Ferry men dishonest. Uncle Israel’s18 Brown & Tom cross. This now is a fine stream some what impregnated with alkeli cotton wood. Yesterday Mr Marvins “much [unreadable word] took Grand leave & also a horse bag of bacon & hard bread & took his departure.
[June] 27 came 19 miles camped upon the Black fork of the Green river. poor grasss, one of Charles19 oxen died very cold Sue & I were horse back & I was obliged to seek shelter of the carriage had a touch of the ague When we came to camp we found our way to the river bank and in the shelter of a thicket of rose bushes, soon were warm. some fish here snow mountains on our left, good roads.
[June] 28 Came 5 miles & camped on Black fork near where there were some traders & Mr S. & C. succeeded in trading off poor cattle to good advantage, & just as our cattle were giving out too. it was quite providential Uncle Gid20 laid it to that & alcohol of which they drank freely. One of the traders was a fine looking man he was of French extraction he spoke of his family I innocently asked if his wife were not lonesome in this desert place, he said Oh no for she was a native of these wilds [i.e. squaw] he then said he was going to Oregon & wished to know if he could go & his boy too. Thus alluding to the manner in which they treat their wives keeping them only to cook & tan hides for them & leaving them as caprice dictates but they seem to expect this & seldom grieve.
[June] 29 came 18 miles & camped upon Muddy Creek a stream was never more rightly named for we could not step upon its margin without sinking into the mire we are in sight of Bear River Mountains. I am better no more ague poor grass.
[June] 30 came 18 miles camped in sight of Fort Bridger an independent trading company Built of hewn logs we visited it Mrs B.21 a dark eyed lady & children accompanied us home This is a beautiful valley the only habitable looking place that I have seen since the Elkhorn. Bear river mountains in sight. Smith & C. are trading goods & cattle so we will not proceed today. Mailed a letter to Cornelia. A coquettish little stream darts along among the green grass dividing & uniting & then parting again Its clear cold sparkling water as it comes rushing from the mountains over the rocky bed is grateful to the taste & after drinking of the Big Muddy we can better appreciate it. This leaves no whitened margin I do not wonder that squaws are so indolent for since we have been dwellers in tents I feel that to throw myself upon the ground is luxuriant ease—free from restraints of etiquette is pleasant.
[July] 2 came 12 miles & camped on muddy Fork. It ill deserves this name for it is a clear cool stream winding its way through willows & rose bushes. Caught trout here. They are speckled & destitute of scales. An hour before camping we came down a bad hill worse than any we have yet descended.
[July] 3 This day was one of interest to me The road lay through the Bear river mountans scenery fine but tame passed two soda springs running out of the mountain close by the road side. One hill that we descended was a mile in length some 18 miles from our last camp are the tar springs It is very much like that in ordinary use. it oozes out of the ground into holes dug for this purpose—first a coat of tar then a scum of oil & clear water underneath several cold springs come from the mountan 20 miles brought us to Bear River.
[July] 4 This morning of the glorious fourth, we breakfasted at six upon Trout Strawberries & cream. We were roused by Mr Patton’s firing two guns in honor of the day & crossed Bear river which is difficult fording for it is a swift stream & uneven rocky bed at noon we entered the Kanyon or canon which had been told us was extremely bad to pass through. came miles & camped upon a little spring. The grass is excellent as indeed it has been since we left green river [July] 5 This pass is called Echo Cannon & this Evil little stream whose crooked windings cursed us to bad roads is Echo Creek. Here we saw wild oats wheat hops & cherries much resembling those growing in our own country, snow drops & willows & single rose bushes grow thickly over it completely hiding the water. 13 times we crossed this & the banks being so steep as scarcely to afford footing for the cattle but it was passed safely without one broken axeltree, though Charley was so unfortunate as to turn over. All have had his luck but Condit with his “Rocky mountain schooner” & the boys declare that it shall go over befor we see Salt Lake. Came 19 miles & camped upon Weber river, a right smart charmer of a stream. Caught many speckled trout which are deliceous The scenery through this Cannon is magnificant Sometimes the mountan seems to hang over our heads as the road passes close under it. on the left is smooth high mountans covered with green grass, and in the ravines fir & cedar but upon the right these mountans rise almost perpendicular 1000 feet They are of gravel & stone cemented together by some earthy substance tops covered with cedars & scrubby oak sides perforated with many holes in which birds have built their nests & whose chirping we could distinctly hear & there is a substance oozing from the crevices which when burning emits a naceous effhusin resembling assofirdita Masses of rock had fallen in many places by the road side & becoming subjected to the influence of the weather, & had crumbled leaving only a heap of gravel. Cotton wood & willows the only timber Here we leave this cannon Kenyon is a spanish word signifying a armed or large gun, & the water rushing over rocks through these ravines—making a noise like firearms & out all openings in these mountains are called by this term In some of the ravines between the Bluffs the rocks assume such fantastic shapes caused by the waters washing down each side & leaving this mass in the center near our camp was a fine specimen
[July] 6 came 4 miles & camped for after 3 long drives cattle needed rest here were a company of returning Cal. one gentle[man] showed us coins & fine specimens of gold in a crude state Boys went fishing Caught fine trout.
[July] 7 Came 19 miles bad roads we crossed this creek 10 times as it winds from side to side ne[c]essarily makes many crossings. One redeeming thing it was shady flies gnats musketoes very annoying to cattle as well as us John turned over again, camped upon Canyon Creek under the brow of the mountan Uncle Israel & Mr Patton stopped at last camp with sick cattle camped at the mouth of Mountain Kenyon.
[July] 8 This days travel was hard, commenced the ascent of the mountan 5 miles a garden of flowers roads extremely bad. tall pines & balsum many springs running by the road side. Sue & I walked the decent of the mountain 2 miles very steep. Chained the wheels I was almost afraid to walk down myself for the first decent was nearly perpendicular. Many rocks and holes & sudden turns Sue & I also walked down this carrying Kate Mervin when at last we found the bottom we threw ourselves upon the grass under a large cotton wood & waited for the carriages washed our faces in the cool creek. came 9 miles camped on Browns creek a small stream lined with willows. I think that “Uncle Sam” could find employment for convicts in breaking stones between Fort Bridger & the City.
[July] 9 Mr S, C & Mervin went to the city. we washed & baked. Keeler & I tried our luck in fishing but could get none Trout are very timid fish Men returned disappointed in the City—The floor of our tent was exremely dirty—dusty so we made a carpet of willow boughs. very warm
[July] 10 Came 4 miles bad roads [line crossed out]
[July] 11 This day at noon we came in sight of the City of Salt Lake from the distance of 5 miles it, the valley, presents the appearance of an immense ploughed clay field but as we approach nearer it is a garden of Luxuriant growth The most pleasing feature of the city is the brooks & water which flow on each side of evry street & rows of young cotton wood by the side. It is conducted from the mountin streams. It looks so cool on these sultry days to see & hear the water rippling over its gravely bed the city is five miles square & is divided into lots of 1¼ acres Houses of adobe22
August 2/1851 Valley of Salt Lake Saturday yesterday was a busy day The new cattle were brought together & branded at two oclock we were on our way & most truly rejoicing for we were but [unreadable word] happy to be once more upon our journey & also to be beyond the precents of Mormanism. We have been in the valley three weeks, the cattle were 25 miles from the City & most of the boys either herding the cattle or working in the harvest & fields With the valley I am much pleased, indeed its fertility far exceeds my expectations & I think that no more river is Lost in irrigating the land than is by rainy days in the states. Corn & potatoes are about medium but this the wheat fiels of the world for no so near does it thrive with such luxuriance It often yields 100 to the acre. 70 & 80 are average crops There are about 40,000 Mormons in this & other valleys for there are many other equally populated settlements here Little Salt Lake San Pedro &c It is reported that extensive beds of coal & gold have been found there, for instance that a man had been digging post holes & throwing the dirt in heaps in which the chicks scratched & having later decapitated one for his supper his wife displayed to his wondering eyes pieces of gold to the amount of 150 $!
One would hardly think that in four years such improvements could be made. As you enter the valley each way as far as the eye can reach we see fine farms & herds of cattle grazing upon the range & lands so regularly laid out too. And we see the chequered patches of every mans farm, Square fields of green corn one equally as large of ripening wheat oats & grass each with its varied hues of yellow. This day we went 10 miles & camped apparently near the margin of Salt Lake, but found to our disappointment that it was no less than ten miles! so deceiving are the distance here.
August 3 We came 13 miles & camped upon the Weber with the boys who were herding cattle. Our eyes were once more greeted with our old friends Sage & Sand, whose acquaintance we had formed in the black hills Our road lay through a pass in the mountains to a by place some distance from the main road. scenery wild & grand. O for a lodge in some vast wilderness, a home in some deep lone “kenyon” We were under the brow of the mountan by the side of a cool spring. There were two of these, one they had used to wash dishes in & dress fish—the other for drinking for they had dammed it up to form a basin allowing the water to run from one side—we went further up the kenyon in search of Raspberries not finding any. Sue & I took off our shoes, & walked upon the shallow pebly bottom of the noisy Weber while Mrs S & C sat upon the bank trying to frighten us with stories of snakes & toads. To day again we thought to try our fortune in berrying some of the young gentlemen of the camp went with us & taking each a pail & basket of hard bread & venison we started invoking the gods to be more propiteous for it was a long toilsome walk to climb the Rocky Mountan & then not to get one raspberry it was too bad though we did find wild currants & service berries but we were a merrie party. O it was so hard to climb—to jump from rock to rock sometimes swinging ourselves by holding a shrub & clinging to the roots after ascending about a mile, we heard the tricling of water & pushing the bushes by my side found a small spring where the water was dropping from between the stones we held a cup under & were quite refreshed with a drink of ice water Two miles brought us to the long sought berries—O my poor hands—mess—but never will our dinner [be] finished & pails filled in a short time. I never saw larger ones cultivated in our gardens at home both white & black but now came the tug of war for we were to come down again. found another spring & sitting around it we thought we would improve it This by combining art with nature The next rambler will wonder who did this! We cleaned out the sand leaves & sticks laid a wall of stones around it piling them so as to form a pretty little fall—as we came down upon the bottom we met two of our men panting & out of breath, with their guns They had seen two Indians on the opposite side & they had shot at them, and hurrying to camp got their guns & came in search of us. We hastened home but I will confess that I cast a suspicious glance behind every big rock or thicket. These are the Utah, & quite ugly. This is one of the pleasant days which linger long in the memory and are often spoken of—for all we [of] that little party will not soon forget it. There came a young man who was anxious to go to O[regon] He is engaged to a young widow in the City, & not being himself a Mormon, Mr Young would not marry them & says he will kill him if he attempts to take her from the valley I think Mr. Mervin will take him & the widow too & should we meet a Minister before we enter the territory we shall probably have a wedding:—
[August] 5 We came 18 miles & camped in another kenyon near a settlement where Mr S and C were trading for cattle. You would be surprised in the growth of this industrous people soon will evry ravine & in these mountans be teaming with life now in evry kenyon you will see the smoke of their hearth stones
[August] 6 Today two Utah indians visited our camp with skins & service berries to “swap” weather delightful though rather windy at sunset lasting until the rising of the sun. our cattle number 203 horses & mules d[itt]o.
[August] 7 Today we camped upon a small creek beyond Fort Ogden This is a settlement which is rapidly improving, situated upon the west side of Ogden river a beautiful stream of clean cold mountain water. There has been two Indian burials not far from our camp The last was the Chiefs brother. He was wrapped in skins tied around him with Lariets & laid upon a horse. He was carried up into the mountans followed by the whole tribe who were howling & screaming most hideously
His horse & colt were sacrificed upon his grave. His bow gun & other implements were placed in the grave too. After this ceremony was over they returned in great glee through the Fort. We passed many untenented wigwams built of brush walls quite good. O you who live in Ohio do not know the good or bad roads I used to think that hill between M [?] & M [?] with fear for it was so steep. But one who has crossed these R[ocky] M[ountains] would say that that was only a little pitch. We have waded miles at a time in Sloughs up to the hubs of the wheels down hills that seemed perpendicular half a mile threatening to throw the carriage over the horse upon the sides of mountains where the waggons had to be held for fear of tipping upon one side evening warm discussion but it is always so people have nothing to gossip about but their neighbours & murder will out sometimes & so it was this time, but thanks to the good fairy who has always attended me I was quietly day dreaming in my own little room A Mr Brown came to camp said he wanted to speak to the Ladies too for he so seldom saw them—He has but 7 & is contemplating two more. He can not get the daughter without the widowed mother—he bought 140 yards of calico he said it [will] not more than go around.
August Friday 8 Early this morning we were on our way at noon we passed the hot spring very salt—some were boiling. one of the cows ran in & Mr S after to save her for she would soon be par boiled He went in over his head & as he came up caught hold of a piece of rock & came out dripping with red & yellow slime which collects there forms a marshy piece of ground encrusted at the edges with salt I picked out a fine specimen came fifteen miles & camped a mile beyond Box Elder creek upon which was the bad [?] settlement found plenty of fine choke cherries
[August] 9 This morning found that one cow & mule was missing John & Simon went back we passed Hollidays Train for Cal Came to salt springs, some were warm and some boiling Here were feathers as though some one had been dressing fowls Near this a clear cold stream bubbled from under a projecting rock passed a company camping upon the banks of the Bear river who had started for O[regon] & taken the cutoff from [Lookout?] springs & intending to settle in the valley Forded Bear river and over upon the opposite bank we were beyond the precincts of mormonism This is a wide but shallow stream water rather brackish came 19 miles & forded Noland Creek which is another small creek very deep & narrow Camped just before sun down There had been a camp here before & things looked quite suspicious remnants of trunks clothing waggons & boots partly burned &c on the first watch the guard said he saw indian prowling. They were upon the opposite side in the brush imitating the motions & breathing of cattle to ensnare him across. fired two guns & they were quiet. thanks to the vigilence of our guard none of the stock were stolen but I did feel timid for they are very troublesome now.
[August] 10 Came 18 miles & camped upon Bear springs brackish water again O how I long for a good drink of pure water. no fuel but sage & little grass. We saw an Indian galoping through the ravine Extremely warm roads good. They lay over a barren wash which can never be cultivated springs strongly impregnated with salt and copperous & warm at that.
[August] 11 After a tedious ride of 28 miles we came to a small spring where we camped some time after dark. we had passed but one small brook & consequently the poor cattle had not drunk since morning & were crazy when they smelled the water—We took a cut off which lay through a vast field of wild sage we gained nothing by it hereafter I eschew all cutoffs as being longer than the right road. However we had a beautiful moon light we met a large band of packers. One smilingly gave us papers He was from Cal He liked it better than Oregon—which latter was a fine country but he had not lived there long enough to fall in love with it. They had seen the bodies of 7 men exposed to sight—they were murdered by Indians who would not allow them to be buried The rest of the 14 escaped Horses & mules were packed some with baggage & some with provisions fine moonlight
[August] 12 To day we passed stony creek & camped upon Casia in a valley. fine grass good water &c all prepared for Indians but as it proved this morning we needed not fear though I presume that we are watched & when we cease to be very vigilent then we may expect an attact.
[August] 14 We found after starting this morning that six cattle were missing so we went but few miles & camped Trout for breakfast
[August] 15 Last night about midnight were awakened by the sudden tramping of the cattle who were herded in the correll. Indians! Stampede! before two moments elapsed all hands stood ready to fire imagine to yourself forty men rising like specters from under waggons tents & carriages with guns & bowie knives—cattle, scattering with speed & the bright moon rising over our heads & then form a faint idea of the consternation & chagrin that momentarily depicted itself upon their countenances—when the guard said it was he who accidentally frightened them causing this small stampede soon all were gathered in the correll Then the laughter & merry jests—Then all was quiet again Passed the body of an Indian who had been wilfully shot by some daring fellow & farther on lay the bodies of eight white men who innocently fell to revenge the blood of the redmen one week after Finis
[DOCUMENT B]
[August] 18 Travelled over sage plains, roads rocky and dusty Rocks sharp and hard. Bear River vally is the most inhabitable looking since we left the Platt The Crickets are large often an inch and a half or two inches in length—Black & shiney, the Indians make soup of them—They catch them by driving them into pits dug for this purpose—they are dried for winter use, its laughable to see our White Chickens try to swallow them, it often takes two or three efforts to get one disposed of, they are so numerous that one cannot avoid stepping on them.
Snake river here is narrow & the banks very steep, from 800 to a thousand feet to the water, only now & then a fissure by which access can be had to the water. Camped where the cattle were driven a mile before a pass could be found down. Many dead cattle all the way.
[August] 21 Hot & dusty, worn out, scenery grand Salmon Falls near by. The water falls over the black Basalt in numerous cascades
Numbers of Shoshone Indians are camped here, We bought enough Salmon of them for a fish hook to make us wish never to see any more. The Fish is poor by the time it gets this far from the ocean. The falls prevent them going farther, so the water at certain seasons are alive with them, some of enormous lengths—as long as a wagon bd [bed]
Our road is often through light sand ten inches in depth—which is hard on cattle—whose feet are now very tender.
[August] 22 We crossed snake river to an Island & then to a second Island, where was nice grass, with plenty of wood & water. Here we missed some Horses & the tracks showed that they had been run off by Indians at Ft Hall. Volunteers went back under the control of Mr Cooke so as to get to the Indian camp before sunrise that they might be taken by surprise, & so be able to capture the Horses. The camp sorrowfully watched the departure of our warriors, & a sleepless night followed—After twenty-four hours of anxiety the absnt ones were seen returning with all the missing stock.
They reported the consternation of the Indians at the apprence of hostile whites. The squaws & Papposes took to the hills for refuge & were seen issuing from evry Lodge. The men half dressed with bow in hand stood at bay ready to repel intruders. But viewing the rifles pointed at them folded their arms and awaited events. Mr Cook gave them by signs to understand that he wanted Horses they signified that they had none, after some more strategy one seized a Lariet & soon returned with the missing stock Mr Cooke recovred his old favorite “Barnabas” with delight, so ended the battle of “Wagon Hill”
We recruited23 a few days & as the ford was dangerous it was thought best to recross & travel on the same south side of snake river, to Boise Had a beautiful camp good grass water & wood soon after the corell was formed we had supper and all gathered around the camp fire & a song was sung composed by Mr Cooke. Roads rocky, of volcanic aspect, often doubling teams on the hills
4 sep Crossed Burnt river many times scenery most beautiful
[September] 8 we are in the Powder river country and begin to see forests of Pine & Fir. Came down the mountain into Grand Ronde vally—a perfect gem—an oasis in a desert The descent was made with difficulty—the wagons being chained & let down with ropes much of the way.
Grand Ronde river flows & winds through this basin surrounded by high hills
Thousands of horses—many of them curiously spotted feed upon the mountain side.24 Hundreds of Indians of the Nez Percies tribe, are camped here, & lazily greet us with invitations to swap, saw one child almost if not quite white among them. The women are all dressed in native costumes of dressed antelope skins—fringed & ornamented with moccasins on their dainty little feet. They came to see us mounted astride of great sleek horses, & laugh & chatter among themselves like just so many gay school girls. Their long black hair is braided into two long plaits that hang down & on top of the head is a gay little hat shaped like a flower pot—made of woven grass—it serves to pick berries in or to drink out of, as it holds water it being so closely woven. Brass rings are to be seen on waist & ankle they have an air of maidenly reserve that wins respect. The men are all fine specimens of physical development, & have not yet become contaminated with the vices of white men and the whole tribe are very superior to any we have yet seen. One pretty squaw took my knitting & very proudly took a few stitchs—the remains of some of the teachings of Mrs Whitman that had been remembered
Grass was tall & luxuriant in this Indian Paradise.
[September] 15 Crossed the Dechutes river—very rocky & difficult. We were told the story of an emigrant woman who was afraid to cross with her train, but was persuaded to get on a horse behind an Indian that had just crossed. When in the middle of the stream with dizzy brain she cried out in fear. The Indian turned his face to her & said, “Wicked woman put your trust in God” These words in good English frightened her worse than ever—He was one of Whitmans good Indians & he had been taught this by that missinary martyr
[September] 23 found us at the Dalles of the Columbia. Most of the train went on crossing the Cascades mountins & the rest of us came by boat & raft to the Portage of the Cascade, where we camped. The little steam boat James G Flint25 brought us part of the way
Indians were salmon fishing at the Portage & were drying their fish there. They had a great dance dressed in costume—none but the young men danced. The occasion that called for it reminded me of some of the customs of the ancient Iseralites and I wondered if indeed, they were of the lost Tribes of Iseral.
Many fine canoes were to be seen, made of great length out of trunks of great cedar trees—some might be fifty feet in length hollowed out & carved with high sculptured prows, glistning with brass headed nails & it was wonderful to see the skill with which they would handle them. The squaws all seemed to be rich in ornaments of beads & brass strings of beads of all colors weighing pounds hang from the neck,—all looked happy and contented sevral Indian burial places we passed as we walked from one end of the portage to the other. Mr Chenewuth26 was living there These burial places seemed to be pens built of huge slabs of wood ornamented with grotesque carvings & paintings, where the bodis were deposited
26 of sept we landed at Portland a little town of a couple hundred inhabitants, just as the guns were booming in honor of the completion of the Plank Road to Tualatin plains.27 The Town was completely deserted evry body having gone to the Road
There is a small Catholic Church, a good Methodist building The Episcopalians have service in a school house & sometimes in the Methodist church. The pastor is Rev Dr Richmond28 who called immediately to see me, and I heartily enjoyed the service of the church once more in the little school house. The Pastor is zealous but rather executive
The steam ship Columbia29 comes in once a month & all the town sit up two nights before its arrival lest they should be sleeping, when the gun fires the population go to the little wharf—a crowned head would not be received with greater Eclat than the Captain & Purser of the staunch little Columbia Gentlemen go about with big boots suitable for mud, as there are no side walks, & the Main street is full of huge fir stumps & deep mud holes. We were invited the second day of arrival to the house of the Editor of the principal paper the “Oregonian” Mr Thomas J. Dryer,30 who with his family welcomed us travel stained & weary from our seven months journey—a welcome that made us feel at home was offered by his excellent wife and charming daughter.
One other paper was in circulation—the Times a democratic organ.31