Amelia Hadley
INTRODUCTION
Sigmund Freud would not be born until 1856, but that did not stop Amelia Hadley from using a Freudian slip in the title of her overland diary in 1851. She really intended it to be “Journal of Travels,” but somehow it came out “Travails.” She has special talent for variety in misspelling the Word “travel” all through her diary, and many other words as well.
She was born Amelia Hammond near Cleveland, Ohio, on September 21, 1825. It was on April 10, 1851, in Galesburg, Illinois, that she married Samuel B. Hadley, a man from Maine. That was Sam’s 30th birthday, having been born on April 10, 1821. Four days later, on Monday, April 14, they left by wagon train for Oregon and Amelia made the first entry in her daily diary. So Samuel and Amelia Hadley’s overland journey was a honeymoon trip lasting some 130 days. There was another Hadley who accompanied them on the wagon trek—Sam’s younger brother, Melville.
The early part of the diary reveals a very cheerful young lady. On May 29 she wrote, “It is amuseing (sic) and delightful to travel over these plains, and is not such a task as many imagine perhaps I may sing another song before I get through…” On June 2 she gazed upon the beauty of Courthouse Rock and emoted, “I for one never enjoyed myself better and never had better health.” She blamed the bad luck of others on “carelessness and Missmanagement.” Then the “travails” begin to make their appearance: On July 15, while chasing an Indian who had stolen a horse from the camp, Melville Hadley, her husband’s younger brother, received a gun shot wound in his right side, “the ball passing in between his ribs and out within an inch of his back bone.” If it had not been for the presence of a medical man in the party, Dr. James C. Cole, who went out with a group of men and brought him in, Melville might well have died. As it was, he lay in the wagon for a number of days suffering repeated bumps and jolts.
Then, on July 20 she wrote, “Do not feel verry well my self,” and for the next three days she did not improve, and on July 23 she added, “I am no better will have to give up journal for few days.” She did not add more until August 10 when she wrote, “After striking the Columbia I again resume my journal. I have been verry sick for the past 2 weeks and not able to wait on my self and of course my book neglected.” By the time she wrote her last entry on August 23 in Oregon City, the final words were, “This is the end of a long and tedious journey.”
One noteworthy feature of the Hadley’s overland journey was its speed. The very idea of reaching the Willamette Valley as early as August 23 is unusual. More often, it took other travelers another month or two. The main reason for this was that the Hadleys used horses. Amelia constantly refers to passing the ox teams of others all along the way.
For the first few months in Oregon, they lived in the little town at the confluence of the Willamette and Columbia rivers: Portland. Then they moved south to the valley of the Umpqua River and settled a claim near what was to become Roseburg, which, at that time, was being founded by their cohorts on the cross country trek, Aaron and Sarah Rose.1 The claim record indicates that the Hadleys took up their claim on December 1, 1851. That richly timbered part of Oregon was to be the main center of their activities for the rest of their lives. There were two short periods away, one near Yreka in northern California’s Siskiyou County, the other in eastern Oregon on the banks of Summer Lake. Dr. James Cole, who had attended Melville’s wound on the westward journey, settled with his family a short distance away in what became known as Coles Valley.2
Over the years following, the Hadleys had eight children, generally speaking every two years: Albert in 1852, Margaret in 1854, Samuel in 1856. Then in Siskiyou County, California, on April 22, 1858, there came twins: Melvina and Melville. Later children were Kitty in 1862 and Henry in 1866.
But there was a ninth child, one whom the others remembered vividly. Melvina F. (Hadley) Hayes, one of the twins, told Fred Lockley of the Oregon Journal about this child in the issue of July 1, 1938:
When I was a little tot my parents adopted a Siskiyou Indian boy, 5 years old. His mother was blind and couldn’t take care of him. Father named him Joe Bowers. He grew up with the rest of us and was like one of the family. He idolized Mother. He was one of the finest Indians I have ever known. He was perfectly dependable and everyone liked him. Father was a stockman and usually had 300 to 400 horses. Joe Bowers and my brothers, Albert, Melville and Hank, rode the range and were expert horse wranglers. They would break horses to ride, before Father sold them.
The Hadleys were Methodists. Although she did not deplore traveling on Sunday, as some other covered wagon women did, Amelia did mention it several times. In Oregon, their home became a center of Methodist activities. A friend of theirs, William Grandison Hill, remembered in later years that “Sam Hadley kept a meeting house and some of the worst blue rum a man ever got outside of.”3
In its issue of October 8, 1886, the Roseburg Plaindealer newspaper reported the death of Amelia Hadley, and with a segment of the obituary we close our summary of her life. Her first name is spelled wrong, but the rest of the story is authentic:
Mrs. Emelia A. Hadley was born near Cleveland, Ohio, September 21, 1825, and departed this life at Myrtle Creek, Or., Oct. 3, 1886. She was married to Mr. S. B. Hadley at Galesburg, April 10, 1851. Together they crossed the plains the same year and remained a while in Portland. They settled in the Umpqua Valley in the fall of 1851 where, with the exception of a few years spent East of the mountains, they have remained ever since. For many years her life has been that of an earnest and consistant Christian and she died in full fellowship with the M. E. Church South. Her hands were ready to every good work and the hearty sympathy and help of the community during her last painful sickness and the large number of friends who followed her to her last resting place fully attest the high esteem in which she was held by the entire community.
We have been unable to locate the original copy of Amelia Hadley’s diary. We have used, with permission, a mimeographed copy in possession of the Corvallis Public Library in Oregon. There are identical copies in other Oregon libraries as well. The time we have spent with the manuscript convinces us that it is a fairly accurate copy made by someone who was careful to transcribe Amelia’s style and spelling as accurately as possible. Amelia Hadley’s “Journal of Travails” has to be one of the finest records of frontier life extant and an item of rare significance as a document of American history.
Monday May 5 Left Mr. Hustons, and traveled about eight miles which brought us to Kanesville, or Council Bluffs. This is quite a town some larger than Henderson in Ill. the houses are mostly hewed log, 2 story and on main street they have sided them up and they present quite a fine appearance Here we lay in our provisions to cross the plains, flour 2½ hundred which is reasonable for this place, here you can get everything you want, crossed the Missouri which is a wide mudy looking river ferried over in a small flat boat, which they rowed, saw several Indians up and down the river which are the first I ever saw, The bluffs are surely romantic and beautiful presenting them in huge collums and if I may so speak in various kinds of architecture. Some of them are verry high while others are still lower reminding us of the work of nature and of the creation when every thing was formed as the creator best saw fit. We are now in the Indian Territory and a more wild barren place I never saw. The sand on the west side up the Mo, is almost insurmountable while each side of the road rushes, are abundant, and you may [see] a vast sea of them, traveled about eight miles from the river and camped on a small stream. There are the tribe of Omahaws the first tribe we pass through, they are the most filthy thevish set and are mostly naked, Their cheif can talk verry good American, also his daughter she has lived 2 years in St. Louis and had been to school, tried to buy a dress said she wanted to dress like white woman.
Tuesday May 6th Lay by to day for the purpose of organizing a company. There are a good many camped with us, some with ox, and some with horse teams, The wind blows verry hard and the sand and dust is flying in clouds and put me in mind of a monsoon, they say that on this river there are always clouds of sand flying. It is indeed disagreeable. No timber this side of the river of any account plenty of willows.
Wednesday May 7th Traveled 12 miles and found a good camping place, grass about 2 hands high, good water no timber, & great many Indians. Of the Potowatamie tribe which is the 2 tribe we pass through. They are a filthy tribe and barbaroic similar to the former tribe. They follow us up from one camping place to another, and were it not for our number they would, be down upon us. Our company consists of 23 waggons horse teams and some 50 men and 11 women besides a number of children passsd the old Morman hurrying ground, and town as the ruins where they were, there burrying ground covers an acre and were just as thick as they could dig the graves, It beat anything I ever saw, This place was called Winter Quarters, It lies on both sides of the Mo. and the buildings are log. I should think there were about 2 hundred of them. They have all left the west side of the river and gone to Salt Lake, and it looks from appearance, like the riuins of Sodom. The old burrying yards stands open and look[s] lonely and solemn. One cannot but help drop a tear to see how providence will order everry thing. True, how short & fleeting is life, we cannot but reflect what frail creatures we are. We will muse no longer on the past but call our thoughts to the present.
Thursday May 8 Here we cross the Elk horn, have to ferry it, plenty of Indians travelled 21 miles which brings us to the platte river, camp on the platte, this is a mudy sandy stream like Mo. It covers considerable surface, and is cut up with sand bars. It is the whitest sand I ever saw, and finest and is disagreeable when the wind blows, which is almost constant, find verry little timber and that is a mixture of oak, elm, and a verry little walnut have seen 2 or 3 cotton woods, passed by an old Indian grave which had the appearance of a wigwam and supposed it was untill reaching it, It is constructed of sodds and built pyramid stile, and has a hole at the side about a foot acros
Fryday, May 9 Travelled, 22 miles to day crossed Shell creek. 12 ft wide, 2 ft deep. We are now traveling on what is termed plains, they are beautiful, but the land differs verry little from what we have been traveling over find little or no timber principaly Willow and this serves for fuel, that is the dead ones, good camping places so far, our teams look fine haveing plenty of good grass. The water of the platte is verry good when settled which we do by throwing in a little alumn, and let it stand for a while. The water is as soft as rain water. camp to night on the banks of the platte. We form a currelle with our waggons, and at bed time put our horses in side and tents and then have a guard stationed. We are a merry crowd, while I am journalizeing one of the company is playing the violin which sounds delightful way out here. My accordian is also good, as I carry it in the carrige and play as we travel, had a verry hard rain this evening, and everry thing seems affloat.
Saturday May 10. Travelled 19 miles come to Loup Fork of Platte, it is verry high on account, of the rain and we cannot either ferry or ford it.
Sunday May 11. Camped on the Loup Fork on account of crossing verry rainy and cloudy, and considerable cold, find plenty of grass, and little timber have had no trouble with the indians as yet, they are affraid to tackel us an ox train back of us they atacked and took 2 oxen and 2 sacks of meal. Have seen some antelope and plenty of wolves.
Monday May 12. Still camped, high water and high washes
Tuesday May 13 Still camped, prospects no better.
Wednesday May 14 Try to ferry this morning. The boat is an awful constructed thing and is not fit to ferry with. It sank yesterday with 12, or 15 men on it, no lives lost, some of our company has crossed, and we still remain here, an awful thunder storm accompanied with hail, and heavy wind, is on hand. The waves run high, have to camp again with nothing to eat or sleep uppon our waggons being on the other side, and nothing with us except the carrige, some of our company on the same side and better of[f] than us brought us something to eat and sleep uppon, so we fared verry well.
Thursday May 15 Crossed this morning looking rather rough, but came accross safe a beautiful sun and rainbow presents itself to our view this morning and we feel fresh and invigorated after the storm, a great deal of thunder and lightning we have and terrible storm everry one says that has travelled here on the Platte river, we have some 2 hundred miles to travel on it, camp to night about 2 miles from the fork, grass not very good, rather short, plenty of timber for camping purposes. Another thunder shower has come and heavy wind.
Fryday May 16 The light of another day has dawned and with it an awful storm. It seems it never rained harder, But at this we will not complain for we shall soon reach where it seldom or ever rains. Pass a good many Indians, camp grounds and their little wigwams no timber but popple [poplar], and willow which makes when dry verry good fuel I beleive willow grows everry where, and where nothing else will grow, see a good many antelope. Traveled 25 miles, found a good camping place water soft and good, rolling land, good grass and fine scenery.
Saturday May 17 Had another hard rain last night accompanied with hail. The soil is so verry sandy that these heavy rains does not make it mudy. Find in most places excellent grass. Mushrooms in abundance, and also a great variety of flowers, here also are a number of old Buffalo trails, looking a good deal like furrows. We are now in the Pawnees country have not seen any of them yet, traveled 24 miles and camped on the bare plain no timbers, nor no water, seem, as though we should perish for the want of it, tolerable grass, and some dew, which made it better for our horses.
Sunday May 18th Started very early, and traveled to where there was water and breakfasted good grass, no timber. This place is called prarie creek, and is excellent water. here are two graves, on the bank of the creek, one was in memory of A. Kellog, died June 12, 49 aged 23 years, the other the name Edgebert, cut out on a peice of board, serving as tomb stones. They look verry lonesome, away here To day is the sabbath but does not seem much like it, has to travel to where we could get timber, traveled 16 miles and struck wood river about 1 o’clock and camped for the night, found plenty of timber but it is cottonwood some dry willow excellent grass, to day has been verry fogy, and a good deal of thunder and lightining. The wind is cold have not had but one or two days that might be called warm. I hardly can see how the grass can grow, when it is so cold. It is nothing for it to storm on the Platte, they are frequent and verry hard. Saw antelope was near enough to see them. They resemble a deer verry much but are lighter collered, and some larger. Their meat is called better than deer.
Monday May 19th Traveled 15 miles good water tolerable grass, and tolerable camp, saw a grave but had no inscription on it.
Tuesday May 20th Traveled 20 miles and camped camp not verry good, saw several antelope, and an animal called prarie dogs, which resemble a puppy. There are acres of them so by speaking I mean that they are like the meadow mole they plough the ground up and form little knolls all over the ground, and also eat the grass of[f] so that the ground looks almost bare. They dig a hole in the ground, and throw it up around like an ant heap, grass in abundance, timber cotton wood and but very little of that.
Wednesday May 21 Traveled 16 miles found a good camping place camped on elm creek, had one of the worst storms that I ever experienced hail as large as quils eggs. face of the country level, plenty of grass, and game.
Thursday May 22 Traveled 21 miles camped on the banks of the Platte. The river is about a mile wide where we now are. In it are a great many sand bars which makes the river very shallow and verry much cut up but verry wide, timber popple we are now at the head of grand Island, and in the Buffalo country, on the south side of the river, is fort Kearny about a half a mile from the river land flat and wet. The air is cold almost enough to freeze. It seems as though summer would never make its appeared. Water poor white with clay of which the Platte and Mo. are alike But by taking a pail full, and putting in a little alum, and it will settle in a short time. This water is verry soft. One of our company killed an antelope and gave us some. It is verry sweet and tender, a good dead like veal. much better than venson.
Fryday May 23 51 traveled 25 miles grass the most of the day verry short, and poor I think from the appearance that it has been tread out by the bufalo for it looks just like an old barn yard more than anything else, crossed Buffalo creek, and passed Willow and Tetah Lake. They are south side of the road long and verry crooked soil sandy, passed 2 graves camped again on the banks of the Platte, our road some times cuts of a bend in the river and we do not camp on it for 2 or 3 nights, find good grass on an Island in the river, have no corn for our horses and they have to subsist entirely upon grass which seems hard and work them hard all day and then turn them out on grass and that sometimes not very good. We left Kanesville with 12 bush shelled corn, and fed each horse 2 quarts a piece as long as it lasted.
May 24 Saturday Traveled 20 miles crossed the Platte, and travelled on an Island, which was about 6 miles and crossed back which shortened our distance about 8 miles. saw a good many buffalo. One of the company shot eight balls into 3 of them and killed none they are tremendours hard thing to kill you can’t kill them to shoot them in the head. passed graves to day, one was a fresh one, buryed 5 days ago. This name Ezekiel Clifton from Michigan. grass not verry good timber willows and Popple. plenty deer & gntelope There are any quantity of scorpions and resemble Lissards on these sand bluffs which look disagreeable, though perfectly harmless. There are three kinds of them one is a kind of pink one nearly black and one brown, the brown one is rather different from the others being nearly round while the others are long. This round one looks some like a toad head like a toad and has a sharp tail about 4 inches long, the querest looking thing you ever saw, Prickely pears grow spontaneous and 3 kinds of cactus, they look beautiful. The Platte is a delightful stream although back from the stream on each [bank?] in most places they are huge sand bluffs which look like snow drifts being so white and not an atom of vegetation on them but on the banks of the river plenty of grass, and some little skirts of timber. It is in most places, some 5 or 6 miles to these bluffs but does not look more than half a mile, It is deceiving like any prarie country. The road leads along the north side of the river some times near the river and then we near the bluffs. there is also a road on the south side There is a kind of grass called Buffalo grass which grows thick like our blue grass and looks like it at first sight, but I think that It never grows over 4 inches high, you will see patches of this where you will see grass of no other kind excellent feed, camped on the Platte while we were driving in camp one of our companys horses ran away with their waggon tiped it over cleared themselves from it and ran themselves down.
Sunday May 25 Waggon repaired and everry thing to rights traveled 25 miles camped on the platte the river here is about a mile wide, here is the last timber we find for the next 2 hundred miles pass a large company they are driving about two hundred head of cattle, look well, passed one grave to day the name Gordon from Dubuque Iowa, died last May 1850, aged 27 yrs Henry, and wife are acquainted with him. Our company to day have killed 2 deer and 4 buffalo, plenty of fresh meat. It is good and quite a luxury after liveing on salt meat so long.
Monday May 26 Camp to day to prepare for the 2 hundred miles where we have no wood shall be about 10 days crossing.
Tuesday May 27 Traveled 13 miles, find the best of grass verry heavy sandy, road. These sandy bluffs are tremenduous hard traveling for we sometimes cross them in small ravines, which are sultry hot, beating directly upon the sand. There is however now and then a good cold spring isueing from the hillside which gladdens us poor weary travelers, the water is verry clear the bottom being pure white sand, in some of the ravines where there is water there is verry good grass. It looked almost impossible for grass to grow in such verry deep sand. Saw 3 or 4 head of Buffalo, fording the river had a good view of them Our curiosity is pretty much satisfied as to Buffalo, haveing had some to eat, you could not tell it from beef. If you were not told and had It set before you, come to examine closely you will perceive that it is a little coarser grain and a little darker. Crossed bluff creek, reproduce as 10 rods and 2 ft, deep water clear sand bottom, some quick sand as also in the Platte, which causes these streams to change greatly and make them dificult to cross camped on the river had to cook with buffalo chips for the first time It makes verry good fuel when dry, and is more prefforable than wood for the verry good reason, (can’t get it.)
Wednesday May 28 Traveled 21 miles some verry sandy and some swamp road, about 2 miles was so mirey that we could hardly get through it The heat is almost intense in these blufs, crossed Duck weed creek 10 feet wide here is an abundance of good cold spring water, which was verry palitable, crossed shoal stream, 3 ft wide, On the oposite side of the river from us there is plenty of cedar, which looks rather inviting as we have no wood, camp on rattle snake creek 20 ft wide 1½ ft deep swift current, sandy bottom, not verry hard to cross, now at what is called cedar bluffs, grass about ½ foot high and good water. We have had no misfortunes as yet our company are all well and teams look fine. See a good many buffalo, they are not as fleet as I had supposed. you can easily ride up to them, the same as cattle. They do not mind you at all and will not run at the sight of you but as soon as they get the scent they are off, you can get up to them on the windward side.
Thursday May 29 Traveled 17 miles had some heavy sandy road 4 buffaloes came down to our camp this morning. It so happened that our horses did not see them and had no trouble. Some of the company crossed the river and got some cedar for wood, red cedar, verry nice. It is amuseing and delightful to travel over these plains, and is not such a task as many imagine perhaps I may sing another song before I get through, a person wants to take a great deal of care of their teams, and take a moderate walk and average about 18 or 20 miles a day and they will stand it verry well.
Fryday May 30 Traveled 19 miles over some of the heaviest sandy road that I ever saw as much as our teams can do to drag over it, traveled along side of the river today, passed one Lone tree, which was cedar, about 100 yds from the river looks verry singular there being no tree nor shrub for a hundred miles, remind me of the Charter oak, scenery delightful, find some of the most beautiful flowers none that we see in the states except wild roses, I love to walk along and gather them, came to an Indian camp about noon where they had quite a little village of wigwams & a great many poneys. They are the tribe of Soos. They are kind and hospitable and are the most polite and cleanest tribe on the road. They are whiter, to than any that we have seen. They are well dressed and make a fine appearance, went in one of their houses made of dressed skins sewed to gether and verry large. They are all busy some of them jerking Buffalo, some painting skins for boxes which looked very nice. The old chief came out shook hands with me invited me in, and seemed almost tickled to death to see a white woman, quite a curiosity.
Saturday May 31 Traveled 21 miles had good roads and verry good grass. over took an ox train for Oregon, which had just crossed the Platte, comeing this far on the south side passed two graves to day & one yesterday, one a lady the name Margarett Hawk from Ill, died Aug 6, 1849, aged 46 years, camped on a little lake south side of the road tolerable grass, and an excelent spring, cold and clear road lays along the bank of the river, river here not verry wide but quite deep, weather fine but air quite cold.
Sunday June 1st Traveled 20 miles had the best of roads equal to Mcademised road. This road leads over the bluff called Cobble Hills, and one would certainly think from their rude construction they were rightly named, after leaveing these and traveling some miles farther we discover some more hills, or bluffs, Called Ancient Bluffs ruins which are decidely grand and beautiful for such as love such a scenery. It looks like ruins of old castles and buildings of all sises and descriptions one in particular runs up some 100 ft and almost square, and the top of it covered with grass, the ruins being principaly rocks, makes it look more strange, here is part of a company who are the most delightful of any thing I have seen visitors have to be verry careful on account of the many rattlesnakes lurking among the clefts of the rocks camped again on the river verry poor grass, have to be verry careful with our horses on account of alkali water It is to be seen only in places standing in puddles. The ground seems covered with this salt, as potash, and this lye looks and smells as strong as I ever saw in an ashery.4 It has the same taste and produces the same effect some of our company went up among the ruins and found a quarry of chalk perfectly white and pure as chalk can be look very white from the road
Monday June 2 road runs along the river to day passed court house rock, south side the river It is on the top of the ridge of bluffs, and accends up in a square form 2 thirds of its height and then forms another square on the top looks as much like a court house as anything can. I will give you a draft in the back of the book. It is about 2 hundred ft high above the main ridge verry romantic, see a company on the other side of the river, stop to dine in sight of chimney rock. I seated myself this day noon to scetch it as near as I can from so great a distance and from observation you with this also in the back part of the book. It is from the level of the river 2 hundred ft high and runs up to a spire similar to a steple. It looks like an old doby house and great big clay chimney, it is a kind of yellow clay, so that It crumbles and washes In 3 or 4 years you will hardly notice it at all, hardly looks like the work of nature, traveled 23 miles good grass considerable of this alkali; stake out our horses with a long rope around in places where they cannot get it Weather fine to day, air warm verry windy, the sand flyes verry bad, makeing it verry disagreeable, Traveling has become a second nature on these plains, but is not so bad after all. It is true that a great deal suffer during this long journey, but It is one half owing to carelessness and Mismanagement, little or no sickness as yet as I know of, health is a great blessing on this road. I for one never enjoyed myself better and never had better health saw 7 buffalo before us in the road. This road is better than any laid out road in the states, looks like an old road in an old setled country, But not much to be wondered at for there is a continual trail all the time and onley the one road, we surely wont loose our way
Tuesday June 3 Traveled 23 miles to day had verry good road, passed a number of ox trains some of their cattle are dying from drinking alkali water Some of them think they are making great head way, but have about killed their teams off they drive some days over thirty miles and no team can stand it, on this route passed 2 indians of the soo tribe said they were a going to fight the pawnees were on horseback had great long spears, and other weappons. As they passed us they said to me, Soo, and then point their spears at us saying me for, Pawnees and rode off as fast as they could. Saw some cactus on the bluffs and mountains some of them in blossom they were the prettyest things I ever saw plenty of mountain moss and a beautiful variety of stones or pebles, a great many curiosityes to attract the traveler passed Scotts bluffs on the south side of the river, they are grand more so than any we have seen named from a man by the name of Scott that starved to death on top of them should like to have drawn them had we camped where I could have had a chance camped on spring creek which was said to produce trout but saw none the creek is clear and cold coming from the mountain formed from spring I suppose. The road considerably distance from the river grass is verry good but later than at this time of the year in the states. We are, still rising and on a much higher elevation than the states grass here now as in April there & it is now June.
Wednesday June 4 We are now 46 miles from fort Larrimi all well in body and spirits over took another ox team which were driving considerable stock. See a number of waggons on the other side travelled 20 miles found good road runs considerable close to river. We are now on the North Fork of Platte. It is quite small in some places and then again it covers considerably surface and form a good many Islands, camped on the Platte plenty of timber such as it is, it is mostly cotton wood, but in the states we would not call it plenty but It seems plenty to us after doing without any plenty for camping purposes found on the bank of the river a log of pine, which I supposed had drifted there which was delightful wood. It was so full of pitch that little of it done our cooking verry well, we carried some of it a number of days.
Thursday June 5 Travelled 22 miles had some verry sandy road, road still near the river, cotton wood plenty, good grass, within 6 miles of Fort Larimi, camped here and lay by a day. plenty of timber. There is an Indian village where we are camped where the Sioux wintered last winter, cut nearly all the trees off about as high as their heads here we had a hard hail storm hailed about an hour as hard as I ever saw it so that the ground was perfectly white hailled also last night not so much but considerable larger see nothing much worthy of note to day but expect to when we arrive at the fort. It is over 900 miles from home to fort Larimie shall soon be half our distance.
Fryday June 6 Lay by to day plenty of grass and wood on the bank of the platte Indians around our camp all day bought some moccasins of them which are made verry nice. Some of our company did not lay by and have gone on they are anxious to see the elephant5 I suppose.
Saturday June 7 travelled 20 miles came to the fort which was beyond all expectation about as large a town as henderson and much handsomer on main street the building are brick 3 story high stores in the lower stories here you can get almost any thing you want. It seems as though I could hardly contrive how they could get goods there the town is a square, block, and brick side walks It is on the south side of platte there are quite a number of frame buildings. here is a good blacksmith shop here are any quantity of wigwams and Indians about 5 or 6 hundred, soil sandy there are only about 80 soldiers here now some of them have their wives with them. This town is at the foot of the mountains in a bend of the river, here we now begin to accend the Rocky mountains these mountains are covered with wild sage pine & cedar. These pines and cedar are scruby some 1½ about ft through and 20 ft high which is the largest you may ask I wonder where they got their lumber to build those frame houses, I answer They have a sawmill, about 10 miles from the fort, which is strange for this place. They have a good ferry at or oposite the fort, we are not obliged to cross we still go up on the north side. some of our boys went over to put some letters in the office. This road up on the north side of the river is a new one and comes into the old one about 80 miles above the fort. these mountains look verry high and almost insurmountable the road follows up ravines and round among them so as not to be verry bad, plenty of rocks as you may suppose look like Iron ore, camp 15 miles in the mountains to night dismal enough, and pleasant to, feel some timid, here is a spring of cold clear water side of the road. 2 waggons joined our company from the fort. There are over a hundred good waggons at the fort which the emigrants have left pretty good grass on the mountains. There are about 3 hundred crow Indians in these mountains they do not show themselves I wish they would I should not be affraid of them as long as you can see them there is not much danger.
Sunday June 8 Traveled 21 miles camp within 8 miles of the platte, as you must know that It heads up in these mountains. We have had a verry hard road to day steep long hills and enormous rocks and caverns. I never saw such ledges on rocks and so awful high and steep I think sure they are Rocky mountains This part is called black hills range, of Rocky mountains quite a romantic scenery after all what gave them the name of black hills is they look like burnt ruins black the soil and rocks is preasely [precisely] the collar of snuff Macabay6 you can take up a rock and it will all scale and crumble in your hands, and the earth is the same looks as though it would cullar, good springs of water, from the mountain side.
Monday June 9, Travelled 23 miles good though hilly road good watering places at suitable distances the farthest 14 miles. Traveled up the platte which is here not verry wide came to a place in the mountains where the platte runs as cuts a place, not over 20 ft wide through which is worthy a travellers notice The water is deep and swift being in such a narrow Kanyon. camp on the river plenty of wood, grass & water, had some antelop to night see some hens called sage hens, I have heard say that they were good to eat, some of our company killed some, and I think a skunk, prefarable, their meat tastes of this abominable mountain sage, which I have got so tired of that I cant bear to smell it, they live wholly upon it and it scents their flesh.
Tuesday June 10 Traveled 22 miles found verry good road and no water except touching the river occasionaly. camp to night on the Platte in a nice little cotton wood grove with awful great mountains all around us, the most romantic place I ever saw, overtook and passed 2 ox trains to day.
Wednesday June 11 Traveled 25 miles had some very heavy sandy road and some bad hills, Though our road winds around through the mountains at an astonishing rate and is more lined than I should suppose it could be. It is the most natural road I ever saw. We see almost all kinds of plants and roots that grow in our garden and green houses of which is Cactus 2 kinds, Prickely Pear, Wormwood, Southernwood, and Chamoile and an abundance of sage of which the latter is not like our garden sage. Flowers of which are Larkspur Sundials, China asters and roses in abundance 3 kinds, of them one kind are nearly as large as a tea saucer I never saw the like and just as red as blood, most beautiful indeed. plenty of peas which look like our sweet pea have just such a blossom, here are a great variety of flowers that you do not have in the states plenty of wild sunflowers and I do not know where that does not grow, Our road has run to the river at intervals to day which has afforded water for our teams at one of these watering places there stood a large lone cotton wood tree, with an indian grave in it, which was quite a curiosity, could not think at first what it was. It was a small child from appearance, the skull was lying on the ground, the crows had picked it all to pieces and left the bones. It was first put in a blanket and then rapt in a buffalo robe, and I should think there were about a quart of beads about it which they had ornamented it with. its scull was painted corpse was lashed to the limbs of the tree with a number of little sticks layed across under it, saw also a buffalo to day, and another ox train camp to night within half a mile of the river in an awful sandy place no wood and have to burn sage for the first time. Any quantity of locusts on our journey to day the first we haye seen—
Thursday June 12 Traveled 20 miles have found a most beautiful camping ground on the river our road has been verry hilly and sandy this afternoon. We are now 130 miles from fort Larimie We have cool winds and a constant breeze here in the mountains have good grass which you will probably think strange but their are small valleys that afford plenty of grass. I can tell you that we are in sight of snow, on the top of these mountains. It looks verry strange to me having seen It so before. This snow lies principaly in the deep narrow ravines and is some 20 or 30 ft deep and from that to 50 ft which is not so easily melted, and more than that I should think from the air now that It never would get warm enough up there to melt it much.
Fryday June 13 road runs near the river occasionaly touching the bluffs with awful heavy sand at these points. Our road mostly to day has been delightful runing through a nice grove along the river. You may know that it seemed good to get into timber again enough to make any shade. came to a grave his name Glenette died 1849, was burried in a canoe. The wolves had made a den down in his grave. They dig up everyone that is burried on the plains as soon as they are left. It looks so cruel I should hate to have my friends or myself burried here. which all may be. The weather is verry changeable nights verry cold and verry warm in the middle of the day. some times it will turn cold in an hour so that from shirt sleeves, you will be cold with the heaviest of winter clothing. It beats anything I ever saw. travelled 25 miles had not water except what little we carried in our canteens.
Saturday June 14 Travelled 20 miles passed one grave and a great deal alkali water. About 25 head of cattle which had died from drinking it lay around people are not half careful enough. Passed through a plane called rock avenue which was a curiosity one which I cannot describe any more than for you to look at some quarry here are ledges which look as though some one had cut the stone square and layed them up in a wall. I can tell you how it came here is where the Free Massons done their first work. (now you know) camped at Willow Spring plenty of grass, and good water willows for fuel.
Sunday June 15 Travelled 25 miles, about one mile from the spring is Prospect hill It is a delightful view, and here you can see the range of Sweet water mountains we then had a bad slugh to cross, which smelled awful nooned at Greese wood creek, 6 ft wide, 1 deep; this takes its name from a shrub which grows upon it and resembles the gooseberry bush but the leaves look like hemlock. It is called Greesewood, we next came to alkali lakes, which were 3 or 4 rods wide the water dried up and the ground just as white as snow and this is 3 or 4 inches deep and you can get chunks of salaratus as large as a pint cup just as pure as that you buy here I gathered some, and I send you some It has got durty. We have now left the platte entirely we had travelled on it so long that it seemed like an acquaintance camp to night on the Sweet water river 200 miles from fort Larimie passed a grade to day. This river is 8 rods wide 2 ft deep swift current good water as soft as snow water which it is coming from melted snow from the mountains. This water tastes like sap which gave it this name. I always had a curiosity to taste of it have to cross the river for grass, so many have camped here that they have eat it all up on this side.
Monday June 16 Lay by to day on this river. There is independence rock, about 200 yds from the river. which is about 6 hundred yds long and 120 wide. it is composed of hard granite and is quite smooth, took a walk upon it pretty hard to accend. I am now seated on top journalizing. There are thousands of names and some are verry nicely chiseled on, but mostly put on with tar, left ours with the rest Here I have a full view of devils gate where the sweet waters pass between or through the mountains. This is an independent rock standing aloof from the rest of the mountains. and has a singular appearance look like a great rock rooled down from the rest of the mountains. It has the apearance of a court house standing in the centre with a block all around. I never saw any thing more splendid see a great many names of whom I knew
Tuesday June 17 After leaving here and traveling 5¼ miles west of this rock you come to devils gate which is from 20 to 30 ft and 400 ft high and a quarter of a mile through this is a great curiosity here are also an abundance of names The current is swift through here like foam here is a grave at the entrance and at the outlet, just by the side of the river, there is also a grave of a lady at independence rock her name Elizabeth Campbell, died 1850 aged 23 years and on the bank of the river oposite independence rock are the graves of 2 girls I think these may well be termed rocky mountains for they are pure granite rock with no earth on them with now and then a shrub cedar springing out of a crevice We are now in a beautiful valley between the mountains which is delightful, considerably alkali grass good in spots have verry good road by traveling up the river. Passed 3 graves this afternoon died in 51 travelled 23 miles to day camped on sweet water road hard this afternoon, on account of crossing the river so many times and so many rocks in the river.
Wednesday June 18 travelled 22 miles heavy sand, tolerable level, crossed the sweet water in all 5 times came through at the last crossing a narrow Kanyon, between the mountains just like a narrow street about as wide as a narrow road is thousands of names written in here which looked like a street in town with their signs up passed 2 graves to day saw a name on the rock W. T. Shinn thought perhaps that it was W. S. of Newark, Ohio, camp to night on the S. W. river where there is as you may say no grass at all and hardly any roots left here are 5, or 6 trains, also but will soon have to share or starve there has been good feed here, but a number have stoped here to recruit, and eat it all out, Some of our Company killed a mountain sheep or more properly a mountain goat for they look about the head like a goat, while the body is covered with hair and short fine wool which looks some like fur had some to eat. I merely tasted it so as to say I had eat some, but do not like it the rest said it was good but I know they think better all the time for they taste of every thing they get even to black birds and call them good. We have 3 English men in our train who eat everything have a kettle of soup every day. One day they had a black bird soup.
Thursday June 19 Travelled 21 miles passed 2 graves to day one by the name of Stantlif here we have a grand view of the wind river mountains which are always covered with snow they have a verry white appearance passed ice spring to day about 2 yds to the right up the road is where the spring breaks out and leads of [f] down the road in a marshy swale, which is mirey here you obtain pure ice by diging down to the depth of 4 to 6 inches dug down and got some there is a solid cake of ice as clear as any I ever saw and more so cut a piece as large as a pail and took and rapt it in a blanket, to take along camp to night on the river not verry good grass.
Fryday June 20 Passed to day a company of packers comeing home from California were with mules which were seal fat they were well fixed one woman packing with them. Travelled 21 miles camped on Willow creek tolerable good grass, and Willows for fuel. crossed Strawberry creek so named from the quantity of vines up and [down] the creek they are just in bloom found plenty of snow in some ravines side of the road some of the boys had quite a snow balling The air has been verry cold to day. passed 5 graves to day all in a row the wolves had made holes in all of them
Saturday June 21 Travelled 17½ miles camp on Pacific Spring which is the first camp after you get through south pass. There we saw the far famed south pass, but did not see it until we had passed it for I was all the time looking for some narrow place that would almost take your breath away to get through but was disappointed. It is a body of table land rooling but not mountainous and is 15 miles wide being the pleasantest place I have yet seen. The altitude here is 7 thousand & 30 ft. We have been on a gradual accend since we left Larimi and now we shall decend the same to the pacific at Pacific Spring the water begins to run to the pacific verry cold to day Water standing the night of the 20 froze a quarter of inch thick on a pail in sight of snow all the time from 5 to 8 ft deep side the road in some places north side mountain.
Sunday June 22 travelled 20 miles camped on little sandy, road tolerable level and I never saw nicer in the states. No grass in the distance and no water except a small spring which is verry brackish and fit for man or brute. From Sweet Water to south Pass is 10 miles. To Pacific Springs 3 miles ditto creek crossing 1½ dry sandy and brackish water 9 m To forks of road Sublet cut off 6 m To Little Sandy 2 ft wide 2 ft deep 4 m To Big Sandy 4 wide 2 deep 5 m To Green river 45m. This entire road from Pacific Spring is a verry level sandy and Ashy desert, no green of any account on the stream. The sand and ashes drift like snow, altitude 8080 ft here.
Monday June 23 Camped on little sandy here we lost one of our carriage horses from a kick in the side good grass along the bank of the stream though high banks to get to it.
Tuesday June 24 Traveled 6 miles to big Sandy here we stop until about 4 o’clock and then travel all night. We here shall take Sublets cut off which is a barren desert of 45 miles no water we think our teams will stand it better to travel it in the night. This shortens our distance about 75 miles.
Wednesday June 25 arived about noon at green river after such a jant for our teams they were pretty well go drayed7 after traveling all night and till noon the next day. There are 3 deep ravines near the river they are 4, 6, 8 miles from the river steep hill at river this is the place to try men and teams here are 3 or 4 good ferryes, the best we have seen about 30 or 40 white men live here among the indians 4 white familys white women also a small Grocery, and plenty of indians for the Snake tribe and some Flat heads The most of these men have squaw wives and some 3 or 4 and a great many children as funy sight as I saw was a little pappoose about 2 years old run along the fery almost naked and Its white dady took it up and carried to the wigwam and gave it to its mama Had to pay the enormous sum of 10 dollars a waggon and 1 dollar a horse to cross, swam our horses rather than pay so much river 100 yds wide swift & deep dangerous too traveled 9 miles from river and camped on Salmon Trout branch 7 or 8 miles above its union with green river.
Thursday June 26 remain in camp to day to rest our teams caught some beautiful fish of 3 kinds spotted and mountain trout and a kind of whitefish there are here 4 graves and some Indian wigwam. There is a road leading from green river to salt lake, a great many go to Cal on this road, the road from Green river here is verry hilly and circuitus this branch is 2 rods wide 2 ft deep
Fryday June 27 Travelled 20 miles camped on Nettle creek which is a small run. Our road to day has been verry hilly nooned at Fire wood grove which is Spruce Pine here is a fine spring, gathered a quantity of beautiful green and some fine strawberryes.
Saturday June 28 Travelled 18 miles verry hilly road, some accents looked almost impasible plenty of indians Snake tribe scattered all along the road snow all around us and above us and cold enough to freeze. good grass and It seems singular how it can grow when it is so cold camp to night in a nice little grove of pople and birch between the hills or in a ravine plenty of currents but not large enough to eat. looks rather singular to see currents here the bushes the same as our tame ones plenty of Strawberrys vines in abundance. Nooned to day on Hams Fork of Green River. Here is an Indian Camp
Sunday June 29 Travelled 18 miles had awful hills and verry steep camp to night on a fork of bear river. good grass, good water plenty of strawberryes and current but the currents are not large enough to cook went out and gathered 4 or 5 quarts which was a great rarity and served fine with bread butter, & tea, stop here the remainder of the day.
Monday June 30 Lay by to day which gives our horses as well as ourselves rest, here is a small grove of timber where we are camped. weather cold, no rain since we left the Platt not a sprinkle.
Tuesday July 1 Traveled 20 miles had verry hilly and slik road traveled 10 miles to Thomas Fork of bear river There is an Indian vilage also a bridge across the river which has been constructed by some white men who stay here to receive toll. They also have a small grocery and horses to trade. bought a coupple of poneys camped on bear river about 10 miles from the fork.
Wednesday July 2 Traveled 25 miles had verry good road, quite level and few hard pitches. Stoped to noon at a small stream good water some small willows and a few strawberrys. camp to night on bear river about 2 miles from the river to the road. this is the main river and quite a large stream large fish in it salmon and speckled trout but the salmon are small here, good grass awful high mountains all around us.
Thursday July 3 Travelled 20 miles had tolerable level road. after travelling some 10 miles we came to soda springs which are along the bank of the river. The water boils up from the bottom sparkles and tastes just as a glass of soda will, pure and cold. There is one called steamboat spring which boils up from an opening in a high rock about a foot across and boils up about 18 inches high. I never saw anything so splendid in all my life. This water is merely warm, it is thrown up by means of gass, or something of the kind in the earth. There is a tradeing establishment here, a number of whites spaniards and Mexicans. They have droves of horses and fine looking ones. At Thomases Fork was a chance to send letters to Fort Leavenworth on the Mo. and one of the whites who registered the names of the emigrants. we had ours put down bought some horses of the Mexicans. We have now 18 head which look well we are pretty well in the mountains and among the shoeshone or Snake indians. They at present appear friendly
Fryday July 4, Travelled 23 miles had good road except a few stoney hills. stoped to noon on a small stream tasted a verry little of soda The air is verry warm to day and we can see any amount of snow all the time. camp to night on a fine stream of water had to cross some few willows on it and excelent grass. To day has been the 4, Our company and another joing fired guns and drank toasts and had a merry time.
Saturday July 5 Traveled 25 miles to day In the fore part of the day had some verry hilly road. excellent spring of water by the road side ozeing from the mountains. There is an insect which I shall call a cricket but some resembles a grass hopper they are as large as your thumb, and everry hush & shrub is covered as full as it will hold, the coller of a black cricket The indians gather them and dry them and pulverize them to put in soups. They wanted us to buy some. camp to night 11 miles east of fort hall, on a fine stream called Port neuf made up from fine springs, good water, willows for fuel, poor grass, being very dry.
Sunday July 6 Traveled 20 miles found verry level road. The fore part of the day being very heavy sand. Struck a beautiful plain which is called snake river valley. skirted along the banks of the river with better cotton wood and popple, arived at fort hall, about 2 o’clock, passed old fort Lorim an American post about 5 miles above, fort hall.* This is where the soldiers were stationed, fort hall is about 50 yds from the river and is built of doby brick, only one large building 2 story high and looks verry pretty. this is the Hudson Bays fort as the brittish Although they never had soldiers stationed there it has been used as a fur traders establishment about there they can get any quantity of fur, plenty of otter and beaver, bear buffalo, and many other kinds This old house is now filled up with low dirty French, that have squaw wifes any quantity of Indians and half breeds. There are left 60 old United States waggons, and a great quantity of plunder, belonging to the soldiers, they left Fort Loraim last fall and were deposited at fort hall. There will have to be a station as another It will not be safe for emigrants to travel, camp about 2 miles from the fort, on a fine stream delightful grass and a large feild “or as you may say foild although it is not enclosed) of wild wheat which at a distance looks like a beautiful feild of wheat. There are any quantity of wild currents of which are yellow, red, & black. the red ones are like our currents in the states, are quite a luxury, could gather a bushel in a short time.
Monday July 7 Lay by to day at camp. Plenty of Indians about us and some not verry well disposed look rather suspicious.
Tuesday July 8 Travelled 21 miles had some verry rough road, and some sand, nooned on an old camp ground, where is a nice spring an excelent water, good grass Camp to night on Snake river at the great American Falls Which for the most part of them are more cascades than falls They extend to the length of 300 ft and, in that distance their fall is 60 ft, being 150 yds wide. This is in Snake river or Clarks, & Lewis river. The bank or basaltic rock all together presents a beautiful prospect. We now have to travel about 2 hundred miles on this river.
Wednesday, July 9 Traveled 25 miles, had some verry hilly road, several small streams to cross any one of them large enough for a mill stream. Camp to night on Cassia creek, which is quite a stream here. Stay to night with a company of packers from Oregon returning to the States sent some letters back by them. they gave us a great account of Oregon, and California
Thursday July 10 Travelled 22 miles had verry rough road, verry rocky, hard traveling. travelled 16 miles without water Then struck a creek of verry poor water any quantity of wild wheat up and down the creek stock does not eat it if they can get any thing else. but in most places there is bunch grass which is good, and will grow on a mountain in the place of the low lands, were it not for that stock would suffer, In many places we have found plenty of red top grass, looks like the tame with the exception of the top which is not as red, our road to day has been over a sage barren and ashes which has the appearance of an old ashery. The soil all looks more like ashes than dirt. It puts me in mind of the white bean story. An old Indian came verry near stealing a horse from our company last night when he was in the act of leading him of [f] the guard shot at him and he ran, without the horse. We had 2 stolen out of the train at fort hall, that belonged to Mr. Rose8 of Michigan worth 100 dollars a piece. We have all the Denies9 in our company. The old man & the surveyor, that surveyed Ontario, and whom you know. The indians are every day commiting some depredation or other, they steal and rob from every train and those dirty french put them up to it. I think if congress knew how bad they were they would protect the emigration as I have said it is cruel, for them to hold out inducements for people to settle Oregon and leave them unprotected and to fight theyr way as best they can, passed 2 graves to day camp to night on Snake good grass no wood but sage, find plenty of currents so far up the river.
Fryday July 11 Traveled 30 miles which we were obliged to do on account of water & grass. traveled 22 miles before we stoped here we found a little grass baited10 our horses and then traveled 8 miles farther before we could find grass enough to camp. Had some of the roughest stoney road you ever saw. Camp to night on a fine stream plenty of grass and good dry willows for fuel.
Saturday July 12 Traveled 16 miles over verry rough road. It seems the nearer we approach Oregon the worse roads we have, and a worse more rough looking country Camp to night on a stream of good water bank basaltine rocks.
Sunday July 13 Traveled 23 miles had verry good road with the exception of two or 3 hills crossed warm spring creek to day which at it head or at the spring it is boiling hot, and would boil a piece of meat as quick as if over the fire, some of them tried it. It is about blood warm at the crossing. Camp to night on Salmon fall creek in which there are any quantity of fish emptyes into snake river about 300 yds below us. This place is an especial resort for the Indians thousands of their old camp, here they come in summer time to fish and secure them for winter. Which with roots & what they steal is their subsistance.
Monday July 14 remain in camp to day to rest our teams, good grass.
Tuesday July 15 Had last night a good horse stole from camp which belonged to Mr. Strong11 of Michigan. Mellville Hadley,12 Mr. Strong and 2 or 3 others went in pursuit of him overtook it about 12 miles from camp the indian riding him still off. The Indian saw them jumped from his horse, and went to a ledge of rocks, wher they said they could look of[f] some 300 ft and secreted himself (knowing every crevice I suppose) and when they rode up on the point of them to ascertain which way he went The Indian shot Hadly, through the right side the ball passing in between his ribs and out within an inch of his back bone he is brought into camp alive Have a good Doctor13 in our train, that went as soon as we got the news, which we heard from a young man by the name of Godfrey,14 that was with him, he went out with 7 or 8 others and brought him in almost lifeless from loss of blood was shot 12 o’clock in day time, brought in camp 11 o’clock at night.
Wednesday July 16 Lay by to day on H. account. He is some revived is verry sore and weak can hardly be moved They did not get the horse. This is a wretched place to camp all suffer from fear I am sure I can hardly lay down to sleep without It seems as though The Indians stood all around me ready to masacree me, shall be glad to go.
Thursday July 17 Are still in camp, Mell is better a little are in hopes we can soon travel for we are in danger stoping here.
Fryday July 18 Traveled to day 12 miles which we were all day doing on account of Mel. he stood it better than we expected, we fixed a bed in our caraige and bolstered him up and drove slow with him, but after all every little jar he would hollar, and grown all the time but we were obliged to travel which seemed awful hard.
Saturday July 19 Traveled 15 miles tolerable good road, some of our men went ahead and threw out all the stone so that Mel got along verry well, but was verry glad to get in camp. Camp on snake river tolerable grass, heavy sand, killed several large rattle snakes in camp. There is some of the largest rattle snakes in this region I ever saw, being from 8 to 12 ft long, and about as large as a man’s leg about the knee. This is no fiction at all. Traveled 20 miles verry good road, plenty of Sage which has become a perfect nuisance no grass of any account & poor water. Melville is quite smart to day am in hopes he will get well he has every attention that is necessary, and a good phycian, to ride side of him.
Monday July 20 Traveled 14 miles and camped on a creek, not verry good water, nor grass, plenty of wild wheat, which our teams eat the head of. The sick still recovering. Do not feel verry well my self. am afraid I am going to be sick from constant fatigue, am not strong no why
Tuesday July 21 Traveled 25 miles had verry good road or M. could not have stood it to have rode so far, gets verry much fatigued before we stop to camp still getting better have to handle him verry careful. Am no better myself, feel as though I could not hold out much longer I have the flux,15 which is fast running me down am doctoring for it, but does me no good as yet.
Wednesday July 22 A beautiful fine day and Mell much better, so that it does not hurt him much to travel, or ride as he is comfortable in the caraige I have the mountain fever16 the Doct. say with the flux, and am not able to set up, and hurts me verry bad to ride yesterday camped on snake river, I am not hardly able to keep journal, to day we travel down the river, From where the road strikes river 6¼ rds to small creek plenty of water above and below crossing the road is level, but deep, dust, & some sand no grass except on the margin of the river do not know the exact distance we have travelled, to day, shall be brief in my descriptions.
Thursday July 23 From this creek to warm spring, 3 miles, These spring are to the left of the road 150 yds, the water to hot to bear your hand in. Heavy dust, from these spring, to a good camp on the road, distance 11 miles. There road leaves river, and takes up gradual, accend to left, The first 6 miles of the II, from springs, road level then hills to accend & decend over bluff or river. This is a white clay bluff and you will find many small hills between this and camp, which is situated as described. Where road leaves river & on the oposite side from camp on the bottom some ¾ miles from the river is a round black mound of rock standing by itself, some distance from bluffs, I am no better and shall have to give up my journal for a few days, Mell is still improving, I will just give you the camps, and distances from here to Columbia river, in short, to sturgeon creek from this camp II miles, good camp, good camp on snake river 3½ miles, to the crossing of owyhe 12 miles, good camp 4 miles from there to fort Bossissee good camps all the way, From Fort Boissee to Malheur river 15 miles good camp which is the first water from fort. To Sulpher springs 12 miles poor camp, little water good to drink but verry sulphury 10 miles to birch creek, good camp, 3½ miles roads strikes snake river, good camp. There is the last you see of Snake river. 4½ miles to (burnt river) good camp, Travel up burnt river 34½ miles, good camp, all the way. From head of burnt river to Powder river slough 17 miles, 15 without water of that, good camp at slough, 9¼ miles to crossing of Powder river, good camp, 9 miles to fork of powder river, good camp, 3 miles to Sechend [second?] fork of powder river, ½ miles good spring, 14½ miles to grand round, plenty of water and grass in that distance. Then you have a splendid country of fine grass. 7¼ to a branch north side grand round, here you enter the blue montains 7½ miles verry rough road to crossing of grand round river, poor camp, no grass, plenty of water, Next water is a spring to left of road, 13 miles, poor camp spring hard to find. not many emigrants find it and suffer for water before they get any. 7½ miles fa[r]ther is Lees old encampment good camp, 19¼ miles to Umatila spring, good camp, 14 miles to crossing of Umatila where road strikes bottom. From here to Columbia 13 miles ¼
Saturday August 9 After strikeing the Columbia I again resume my journal. I have been very sick for the past 2 weeks and not able to wait on my self and of course my book neglected I am now able to be about and Mellville able to ride on Horse back, Travelled 20 miles and verry sandy road, and but verry little grass and that is dry as hay. Camp to night on Columbia, bank verry sandy, no timber but plenty of Indians all along the shore fishing catch a great many salmon Columbia is a pleasant river but is not as large here as I had supposed. We are in the Walla, Walla, nation and among that was a horrid murder, but the catholicks were the cause, they put the indians up to perpetrate the deed,17 they are civil to us, and we have no trouble to watch our horse among them.
Sunday August 10 Traveled 16 miles heavy sand, folowed the banks of the Columbia, down not much grass, barely enough to sustain life every thing is so dry that you cannot decern any thing green except a clump of willows, But the dry season is almost over, camp to night again on the river, I am getting considerable smart, no other sickness in the train.
Monday August 11 Traveled 14 miles had very sandy road and enormous stony still traveling down the river Camp on willow creek a little stream which emptyes in Columbia not much grass, but plenty of Grouse which is a kind of prarie chicken and you could not tell them from tame chicken they are blacker than a prarie chicken, but the meat is as white and sweet as tame chicken.
Tuesday August 12 Traveled 17 miles roads verry sandy, and rough plenty of salmon weighing from 20 to 30 lbs, 3 or 4 of our company and an ox train bought a canoe, and went down the river, camp to night on river. Had a fine sprinkle of rain which was something new
Wednesday August 13 Traveled 12 miles over verry hilly road, accended a mountain which we had to double teams, and could hardly get up at that, Camp to night on John Days river a pleasant stream, upon the mountain just before we crossed the river we saw Mt Hood towering high above the Cascades, A beautiful snow capt Mt.
Thursday August 14 After leaveing camp and river we accended a mountain which seemed almost insurmountable but by perseverance we accended the top, road to day over a mountainous country have traveled 19 miles to day camp to night on the Columbia. There is a small tradeing establishment here and also a place where people can take boats and go down the river this is 6 miles from what is called the dalles, the price is 10 dollars a person, and 50 dollars pr waggon or one waggon for another, We shall cross the mountains ourselves, cant afford to give all we have to get through.
Fryday August 15 Traveled 14 miles over a very hilly road where the hills are dificult to get up without doubling teams crossed the Deschutes river a little above where it emptyes in Columbia had to ferry paid 5 dollars per waggon here we learned the sad intelligence that those that went down in a canoe were drowned. It is dangerous going down especialy when heavely loaded as they were, there being so many rapids in the river, their canoe was found bottom side up, with a pair of boots tied in the captern18 nothing has been seen of them. camp to night on an arm of the deshutes or fall river, Bought some potatoes at a little grocery here, for which we paid a bit pr pound seemed like old times but rather dear eating to what we had been used to.
Saturday August 16 traveled 25 miles had verry hilly and stony road, have seen several peaks of the cascades peering above the rest with their white mantles on These mountains are heavy timbered with pine, hemlock cedar and shrub oaks with a little popple alder Hawthorn and birch and the largest elders I ever saw, from the size of the arm to some 10, or 12 inches through and many larger, Camp to night on the arm of the deshutes good water plenty of wood and the best kind, several indians here the Canakees,19 the most filthy set I ever saw.
Sunday August 17 Traveled 12 miles over the most hilly rough road I ever saw after we left camp we accended a mountain where we had eight horses to a wagon camp to night at the foot of cascades called barlow gate, have only to travel 4 days before reaching Oregon Citty what a joyful time will that be.
Monday August 18 Travelled 15 road awful hilly and mountainous, exceding anything yet one hill was 1 miles ¼ long, and verry steep, plenty of water isueing from the mountains, any quantity of plunder and waggons on the road.
Tuesday August 19 Traveled 12 miles over the worst road and mudy, it is indescribable camp to night on a small opening, good grass to night but last night had none, there is little or no grass in these mountains except in spots, and hard to be found.
Wednesday August 20 Traveled 20 miles over a much worse road than yesterday, accended a hill called Laurel hill steep & dangerous, enormous rock in the road so that waggons precipitate from 1, to 2 ft, perpendicular cut a small tree and tied it to the back end of our waggons to keep them right side up.
Thursday August 21 Traveled 15 miles over a mudy stony road over dividing ridge all the team can do to strugle along.
Fryday August 22 traveled 18 miles some of the day had verry good road have had verry good luck in finding grass, cross the big and little Sandy, camp to night within 10 miles of settlements.
Saturday August 23 traveled 10 miles camp to night at a farm, the mans name is Foster20 from state of Maine was kind and entertained us verry fine I could not walk strait after not being in a house for so long when I got up to go across the floor I was like an old sailor that had not been on land for a long time, They had about 2 hundred bushels of peaches which looked delightful And now you have seen me through this great Western thorough fare and you wonder where I have settled I came from thence to O, citty and from there to Portland where I now remain, This is the end of a long and tedious journey.
E. A. Hadley
Oregon
This is all I can tell you by pen and paper my love to you all and should providence again call us together I can tell you more in an hour than I can write in a week.
E. A. Hadley