An Ohio Lady Crosses the Plains

Susan Amelia Cranston

INTRODUCTION

“Matter-of-fact, with an occasional flight of fancy”: that is how one might describe the daily journal of Susan Amelia Cranston. She just told it like it was—most of the time. She discussed day after day the finding of those three basic needs for wagon train travel to the West: water, fuel, and feed for the animals. A typical statement is the one written on May 9, 1851: “encamped at night in the prairie with tolerable grass and water but no wood cooked with weeds.” Susan saw countless graves along the way, but she simply counted them and recorded the number seen each day: she did not write down the name of even one of those who had died and were buried there.

Susan and Warren Cranston were married in Woodstock, Champaign County in western Ohio on April 18, 1850. She was Susan Amelia Marsh before that date. She had been born in Stowe, Vermont, on August 31, 1829. Warren was two years older.

They really started for Oregon immediately after the April marriage. However, as family members remembered in later years, when they got to St. Joseph, Missouri, “he was offered a position as a school teacher, so he taught school until the spring of 1851, putting in his spare time studying surveying. He brought his compass across the plains, thinking it might be handy to survey land claims.”1 It was true; Warren Cranston did work with surveying teams in the mid-Willamette Valley of Oregon later on.

The young Ohio wife would only live a little less than six years in the Willamette Valley when her death took place due to tuberculosis in Salem, Oregon, on June 2, 1857.2 She was buried in the Odd Fellows Cemetery.3 During those short six years she gave birth to three daughters: Amelia, born on Christmas Day, 1852; Ella Rozetta, born on December 5, 1854; and Hulda Orpha, born September 28, 1856.

The Cranstons were part of a fairly large community of Ohio emigrants who traveled overland in 1851. Many were named in her journal. They tended to be of a strong anti-slavery sentiment and would become active in the development of the Republican Party in their new homeland during the pre-Civil War years. The folks from Ohio tended to settle east and northeast of Salem in what is known as the Waldo Hills region and in the Siverton country. There was, in the early 1850’s, a small town named Lebanon4 out in those Marion County hills, and Susan’s husband, Warren, became postmaster of the community for a time. In 1858, that Lebanon died (and its post office closed) but gave way to another community of the same name a few miles farther south in Linn County. That town is still viable.

Warren Cranston was devastated by Susan’s early death. There is a letter written by him on July 25, 1859, two years after her passing, in which he told relatives in the east that he was teaching school in Albany, Oregon, and still felt the impact of Susan’s death:

It has been over two years since Susan died and a long time it has been for me I assure you. I often times regret having come to Oregon, thinking perhaps had I not done so Susan might perhaps still be living. She always told me that she did not regret coming, but perhaps it is all for the best. It would be better for man if he could be reconciled to the mysterious workings of Providence. I cannot do otherwise than to submit. My aim shall be to try and raise these little ones in such a manner that they will be as much respected as was their mother … but to do that I must be with them more than I have been since Susan died.

It is the very simplicity of Susan Cranston’s journal and its occasional revelation of her inner self that make it of such value in understanding the problems faced by women of her time in the settling of the West.

There are typescrips of Susan Cranston’s journal in several libraries, but the original is Manuscript P-A 303 in the collection at the Bancroft Library at the University of California in Berkeley. There is also a collection of Cranston letters, one of which is quoted immediately above, in the Bancroft Collection. We are deeply grateful for permission to publish the material used here.

There is another collection of Cranston family letters in the library of the Genealogical Forum of Portland, Oregon. They were written by Warren Cranston’s father, Ephraim, who with Rosanna, his wife, traveled with the same wagon train of 1851. The letters are in typescript form and have been invaluable as reference material.

THE JOURNAL OF
SUSAN AMELIA CRANSTON

May 8th crossed the Missourie river drove 2 miles and encamped our company consisted of 14 wagons with from 4 to 6 yokes of oxen to each and about 30 head of loose cows and young cattle and 14 horses.

May 9 drove 12 or 15 miles had a hard rain in the forenoon stopped an hour at noon encamped at night in the prairie with tolerable grass and water but no wood cooked with weeds.

Saturday May 10th. drove to Weeping water, stopped an hour at noon and arrived early at camp not very good grass but wood and water There the company organized chose a camp and guard master numbered the wagons to take turns driving ahead There were 30 men 13 women and a No of children Passed 11 graves

Sunday nth drove 12 miles crossed Salt Creek and encamped near the bottom where there was good grass wood and watter 3 or 4 wagons camped on the other side of the creek with horse and mule teams Salt creek derived its name from the saltness of its watter which is not for use although our stock drank it without any perceptible injury. The country thus far that is between the Missourie and Weeping water, Weeping Watter and Salt creek presents an extensive prairie which is very rolling. The eye scans the open distance in vain to find an object upon which it may rest at times the eye is employed in scanning the coursing of a stream which may be seen from ten to fifteen miles according to the hight of the hill from which you look except the scattering trees upon the banks of the streams there is scarcely a stick large enough for a riding whip nothing but the rolling prairie one hill has not ended before another is begun at this time the grass is not high or long enough so far to find good grazing on the hills and on the creek bottoms sufficient for our teams but if we had better we should like it the grass will soon be good on the high prairie and we have had plenty of rain lately Monday 12th started at 7 oclock stopped at There was not much grass but water for the cattle … to cotton wood ditch Passed 16 graves had good grass and water We have not been in sight of timber to day only at our camps at morning and night

Tuesday 13th No one knew the camping ground any further untill fort Carney [Kearney] our camp master Mr McAlexander5 has been to calafornia but he started from St. Joseph We took some wood and water and drove untill noon when we stopped an hour for the cattle to rest and graze and encamped a night in the prairie We had tolerable grass but neither wood or water except what we had brought The prairie has been more broken to day there has been shrubs and small trees in sight in the ravines most of the time 3 indians the first that we had seen met us just at night and followed us to camp they appeared very friendly and were begging They had a paper and on it was written with a pencil (these are friendly indians you had better treat them well) they seemed unwilling to leave but we sent them away at dusk 8 graves

Wednesday 14th Had a very hard shower with wind and hail which scattered the cattle so that we did not start very early drove about 10 miles and encamped with neither wood or water except what we brought with us passed 2 graves the appearance of the country about the same as yesterday

Thursday 15 drove about 15 miles in the afternoon we struck the plat bottom the grass in the bottom is good the best that we have seen we encamped at night on a little stream of good water we had brought wood with us from a stinking creek which we had passed in the afternoon Passed 2 graves The Platte bottom is about 10 miles wide a low flat plain

Friday 16th drove about 20 miles struck the Platte river and encamped on the bank The Platte is full a mile wide the water is not good as the Missourie fuller of sand The Mail from New fort Carney to the Missourie staid with us to night We are 90 miles from N Ft Carney 3 indians passed our camp they were packing on 3 ponies showed a disposition to be off

Saturday 17th Followed up the Platte stopped an hour at noon encamped at night on the bank the bottom and river are not so wide there in some places it is not more than half a mile from the river to the blufs We have a shower every day and sometimes two or three since we come to the Platte Passed 2 graves stopped early and began washing calculated to finish the next day Passed an old deserted indian village the largest wigwam was 30 feet in diameter

Sunday 18th Raining in the morning so that we could not wash Hitched up and drove on stopped 2 hours at noon had a hard shower stopped early on the river The bottom has been narrow to day on this side of the river in some places the blufs come to the river consequently we have had some hilly road Passed 4 graves

Monday 19th The morning was cool and pleasant In the fore noon we finished our washing and dried our clothes in the afternoon we drove about 12 miles Encamped again on the river grass was not very good The road has been to day about the same as yesterday

Tuesday 20th Drove about 20 miles stopped an hour at noon and encamped at night opposite Grand island we had good grass Passed 1 grave the bottom has been wider to day we have not been on the blufs

Wednesday 21st Drove about 12 miles and encamped on the river in sight of fort Carney it has rained most all day some of the time very hard it cleared up at night so that we had a chance to get our suppers The bottom has been wider to day Some of the oxens necks begin to be sore Passed 4 graves to day we expect the reason that we have not seen more since we struck the river is that we have traveled in the bottom and the graves are on the high land

Thursday 22nd Drove about 15 miles passed fort Carney at which we stopped a few minuets and encamped on the river had poor grass and nothing but green willows for wood fort Carney is situated at the head of Grand island which is 50 miles long and 5 wide There are 2 stores at the fort and a No of good dwelling houses 3 graves

Friday 23rd drove about 20 miles stopped an hour at noon where there was good grass and water for the cattle In the afternoon we found some wood that had been cut and dried we supposed by the indians we encamped at night in the prairie in sight of Platte we had poor grass and water no wood except what we had brought Passed 2 graves

Saturday 24th started at seven drove till noon when we stopped an hour crossed Plum creek which takes its name from the plum bushes which grow on its banks at night we encamped on the bottom which is wider since we left fort Carney there were two little ponds by our camp the water of which we used for washing our drinking water we got from a little running stream between us and the river

Sunday 25th Drove about 15 miles stopped an hour at noon It was the warmest to day that it has been since we started untill the middle of the afternoon when we had the hardest hail storm I ever saw for which we were unprepared we saw the cloud but thought it would be only a slight shower Some of the stones were as large as hens eggs they had to hold the horses by the head and unhitch the cattle from the wagon it knocked some of the men down and the stones lay so thick on the ground that they picked up pails full after the shower was over They soon found the cattle hitched up and drove a little ways and encamped near the river Grass was poor

Monday 26 Drove about 12 miles and stopped to dry our things that got wet in the hail storm we encamped on the bank of the Platte had plenty of wood grass short We washed but did not get our clothes that we washed dry Some of the boys went hunting on the islands in the river and at night brought in 2 deer.

Tuesday 27th Drove about 15 miles stopped an hour at noon near a slough and encamped at night on a little stream had tolerable grass wood and water Some of the boys stayed back to hunt and soon after noon overtook us bringing two deer. Passed 3 graves

Wednesday 28th Drove about 20 miles stopped an hour at noon on a slough and encamped at night 2 or 3 miles above the forks of the Platte had good grass and water but no wood except what we brought with us and buffalo chips which burn very well 7 graves

Friday 30th Drove about 15 miles stopped an hour at noon and encamped at night at the ford across south fork The appearance of the country since we struck the Platte bottom has [been] about the same every day The bluffs on the right and the river on the left

Saurday 31st started early crossed south fork at the upper ford which is very good the water did not come over the axel tires of the wagon here we come up with 12 wagons which crossed the night before we started ahead of them but they soon overtook us and drove with us until night when they passed us When across the river we left the bottom (which was narrow) and ascended the bluffs which were not steep then crossed a high roling prairie 12 or 13 miles across. The grass was so short that we did not unhitch the cattle at noon only stopped a few minutes for them to rest When we come towards the North fork the bluffs became very steep and stony with deep ravines between them but the road kept along on a ridge that appeared forward for the purpose untill we come to a steep hill when down we found ourselves in what is called Ash hollow which leads out to the bottom of North fork this hollow is two miles long and from 15 to 30 rods wide winding around he bluffs which tower up on either side some times to the highth of 60 feet The road through the hollow was lined with shrubs and flowers wild roses cow cherries and scrub ash and up on the blufs small cedars We drove out into the bottom and encamped near the river grass short We took along a quantity of wood from the hollow as we learned there was no more for 60 miles, we were soon visited by a number of indians squaws and papooses there was a large encampment of them across the river opposite to us they were Shions [Cheyennes] and Sioux who marry and live together yet have each their separate chiefs The Shions a very intelligent looking nation are said to be wealthy a little papoose attracted the attention of the whole company it was dressed in a wild cat skin taken off whole and lined with red flannel and trimed with beads There was a frenchman living with them said he had been there 32 years

Sunday June 1st did not start very early drove 5 or 6 miles over hard road in some places very sandy fine loose sand 6 inches deep and in others the ground was covered with alkaline salts and where water stood it looked like lye we have seen some alkali before to day but not as strong the first we saw was 1 or 2 days drives this side of New Fort Carney about noon we come to tolerable grass and encamped intending to go no farther to day but we learned that grass was better two or 3 miles ahead so we hitched up and drove to good grass in the morning when they went to hitch up one of the oxen was missing some staid to hunt and after searching some time found him in the possession of the frenchman and indians they overtook us with the ox at noon Passed 5 graves

Monday 2nd Started 30 minuets after 6 Oclock Drove about 15 miles in the forenoon the sand and alkaly was about the same as yesterday in the afternoon we saw no alkali but sand was worse Encamped at night and noon on the bank of the North fork grass short Passed 13 graves

Tuesday 3rd drove about 18 miles had good road crossed Little creek before noon and encamped at night on Big creek (passed 13 graves) in sight of the lonely towers and Chimney rock We saw them both a little after noon we were 5 miles from the tower and 24 from the rock

Wednesday 4th Drove 24 miles stopped an hour at noon and encamped at night 5 miles beyond Chimney rock on the river The tower is 5 miles from the road from which it appears very much like a ruined deserted tower or strong hold but on approaching nearer it looks more rough and irregular it is composed of a kind of cement, or very soft sand stone which can be cut or crumbled of[f] easily it stands alone overlooking the surrounding country those that visited it judged it to be 300 feet high 200 long 50 wide when we first come in sight of Chimney rock it has the appearance of a chimney or stove pipe as you approach it looks like a hay stack with a pipe on it it was of about the same composition as the towers between two and three hundred feet high the chimney or pipe is perhaps 50 or 60 feet high it can easily be ascended to the base of the pipe Had very good roads in some places the ground was covered with alkaline salts so thick that we could pick up hands full of it good grass Passed 8 graves

Thursday 5th drove 21 miles had good road about 11 oclock we left North fork watered our teams and drove on 2 or 3 hours and did not find grass sufficient to pay for unhitching stopped ½ hour for them to rest had a hard shower in the afternoon Encamped at night at scotts bluffs and springs had poor grass our encampment was in a romantic place on a hollow where there was a little stream and high blufs nearly surrounding us covered with small cedars and pines there was a black smiths shop near passed 5 graves

Friday 6th Drove 14 miles by one Oclock as our camp master thought we should not come to water again for 19 miles we encamped for night on the bank of Horse creek in the afternoon we washed had no wood except a little that we had brought and a log found in the creek passed 13 graves

Saturday 7th Drove 20 miles stopped an hour at noon on a beautiful stream of clear water to the right of the road in the afternoon we passed a trading house encamped at night on the river poor grass Passed 10 graves

Sunday 8th Drove 17 miles stopped an hour at noon passed 2 trading houses had some sandy road forded Larimie river and encamped at night of[f] Platts bank 2 miles from the ford had poor grass We did not go within ¼ of a mile of fort Larimaii but saw many soldiers and plenty of indians some came to our camp to trade In the forenoon we came in sight of Larimaii peak the highest point in the Black hills it looked like a small dark cloud said to be 60 mile off 5 graves

Monday 9th Drove 19 miles Encamped at noon on the river in the afternoon we passed the lime killn near is a good spring in a ravine to the right of the road filled our water kegs which was useless as in five miles we came to bitter Cottonwood creek on which we camped at night where the water was equally as good tolerable grass plenty wood to day we have had a very crooked hilly road very sandy in the forenoon 3 graves

Tuesday 10th Drove about 15 miles to Horse Shoe creek stopped an hour at noon and arrived at the creek at 3 oclock found the best grass we had seen since we started in the forenoon we passed two small branches and in the afternoon a beautiful spring to the right of the road had a shower just as we stopped hilly road

Wednesday 11th Drove 13 miles did not start till noon stopped in the forenoon to let the cattle rest and wash In the morning the creek had raised and had a red hue like brick dust The blufs above have the same appearance they are composed of a kind of clay fortunately we found a spring just above our camp encamped at night on the river drove the cattle a mile from camp and found grass nearly as good as last night good road most of the way

Thursday 12 about 15 miles stopped an hour at noon encamped at night on a good stream of water very poor grass to day we have had a hard road hilly and dusty saw 6 graves

Saturday 14th Drove 20 miles grass was so poor that we did not turn the cattle out of the corall but hitched up as soon as daylight and drove about 5 miles to a small creek where there was a little grass and stopped and got breakfast a company just ahead of us killed 2 buffaloes and gave us all the meat we wanted and 1 of our company killed an atelope we started on about 10 Oclock in about 4 miles we came to a small creek and 8 more to Deer creek where we calculated to camp but found no grass drove 3 miles to the river where we found tolerable grass 1 cow was found dead in the corall this morning it was supposed that she had drank alkaly or eaten some poisonous weed saw 3 graves

Sunday 15th Drove about 15 miles stopped 2 hours at noon on the bank of the river in a beautiful place where it was lined with cotton wood and bushes encamped at night on the river had very poor grass

Monday 16th Drove 8 miles stopped opposite lower ferry the price for crossing there was 3 dollars a wagon went to the upper ferry found the price 2½ a wagon and the best boat encamped a mile from the ferry had good grass in the afternoon we washed did not cross to day as we would have to drive 12 miles to come to grass

Tuesday 17th Crossed the north fork drove about 14 miles encamped at night without water except a little that we had brought with us which was not much as we expected to find water we did pass a lake of alkaline water which we did not let our stock drink grass was poor and no wood except wild sage We swam our cattle and horses across the river Saw 2 graves one a little before we came to the river and one after the last was made this year June 2nd it was the first that we had seen buried this year to day and yesterday we have been in sight of a chain of mountains to our right snow or ice could be seen in the hollows of them

Wedesday 18th Drove about 14 miles started at daylight and drove to Slew springs come 8 miles and stopped to get our breakfast and let the cattle do the same Came to willow springs in about 2 miles and in 4 more to Crooked run where we encamped for night Had tolerable grass and water sage for wood.

Thursday 19th Drove about 14 miles did not find grass to feed at noon. Crossed greas wood creek about 4 miles from our encampment on Crooked Runn. Came to independence rock where we all encamped but the Drs folks6 and Coollages7 who thought they would be independent and drive by themselves. Three or four miles from independence rock are a number of salaratus ponds none near the road however had no water, being dried up. The salaratus seems to be pure, it is white and clear and in some places an inch thick. We gathered a basin of it which we are going to dry. Independence rock is a solitary rock some 70 or 80 feet in hight and covers some two or three or more acres, our camp was between the rock and the river Sweet water had tolerable grass good water sage and old wagons for wood

Friday 20th Our company divided in our division we had 7 wagons & 14 men & women & 6 children Drove about 15 miles stopped an hour at noon and encamped at night on Sweet water had good grass sage and greece wood for fuel to day we passed by the Devils gape where the river passes through the mountain the mountain is 3 or 4 hundred feet high with gap through the width of the river it is composed of rock

Saturday 21st Drove about 30 miles stopped an hour at noon on the river and encamped at night near the river and near where there are 2 roads one crosses the river and the other does not to day we have had a very sandy road to day we have been surrounded by mountains on our right the Sweet water mountains of nearly solid rock and destitute of vegetation and to the left a chain covered with a dark growth and capped with Snow.

Sunday 22nd Started at the long narrows crossed the river 3 times in a mile then left it crossed it again a little after noon we did not unyoke at noon as there was not much grass but plenty of saleratus we encamped at night about a mile and a half above the ice springs we found no spring but passed through a marshy springy place where there was excellent looking grass but the alkaly was so strong that we did not let our cattle taste it we had tolerable grass among the sage which was our wood and sent back to the bog where they found ice in some places 6 inches thick by digging down 4 or 6 inches which we used for water to day we have occasionly seen the Wind river mountains which are covered with snow Drove about 20 miles

Monday 23rd Drove 18 or 20 miles started at daylight and drove 10 or 12 miles came to the river stopped 2 hours and got breakfast the grass had been eaten of[f] in the afternoon we crossed the river and drove over a very hilly stony road till we struck the river and crossed it again and followed it up 4 or 5 miles and found first rate grass and encamped for night on the river sage again for fuel passed 3 graves

Tuesday 24th Drove about 20 miles stopped at noon on a little rivulet and encamped at night on Strawberry creek a branch of the Sweet water passed another branch Snow creek 2 or 3 miles from this where there was a bank of snow under the bluff in the afternoon the road wound round the bluffs it was the most crooked hilly stony road we have had it was better in the afternoon passed 5 graves

Wednesday 25th Drove about 16 miles 4 miles from our camp we crossed Sweet water for the last time 8 more we came to the top of the mountains and 4 more to the Pacific springs where the water runs west It was very cold and good we encamped for the night grass short our road to day has been tolerable good we hardly know when we were on the top of the mountain the ascent and decent was so gradual the weather is very warm in the middle of the day and cold nights passed 6 graves

Thursday 26th Drove 18 miles to Little Sandy did not unhitch the cattle at noon as there was no grass crossed dry branch about noon there was a little water but it was alkaline we did not let the cattle drink Encamped at night on the bank of the creek and drove the cattle up the creek 2 miles where they found a little grass 3 graves

Friday 27th Drove about 8 miles to Big Sandy went a mile down the creek where we found tolerable grass encamped for the rest of the day to let the cattle rest before crossing the cut off which is a distance of 40 or 50 miles with neither grass or water as yet we have not decended the mountains much it has been very cold all day to day the men have worn their overcoats

Saturday 28th Started about noon drove till dusk when we stopped a few minuets to eat our supper started again and drove till daylight when we unyoked the cattle and rested an hour or two

Sunday 29th Started on and reached Green river about 4 Oclock in the afternoon our cattle were tired dry and hungry the road was very rough and hilly towards the river we got our wagons ferried across for 10 dollars apiece tried to swim the cattle got 10 or 12 across and could get no more drove them down about a mile where there was a little grass and left them without a guard left 1 ox on the desert

Monday 30th Hunted up our stock and drove them across the river had but little trouble being in the morning. Got all things in readiness for starting about 11 Oclock, drove 6 or 7 miles over the most hilly road that we have come yet and encamped while on Fontenells Fork where we [had] good grass and watter at this place we found Indians and white men with ho[r]ses and oxen for sale Turned our stock loose and did not guard them

Tuesday July 1st 1851 Did not move our camp let the cattle rest we had willows for wood Caught half a dozzen speckled trout the first we had seen

Wednesday 2nd Drove about 12 miles did not unhitch at noon as there was no grass Encamped at night near a good spring in a hollow where there was a thick growth of willows and aspen and on the hills were the largest pines we had seen some were 2 or 3 feet through at the bottom drove the cattle up the swail about a mile w[h]ere they found tolerable grass among the hills and bushes at night drove the cattle into the corall where they lay down and left them without a guard

Thursday 3rd In the morning found the cattle some scattered but soon got them together and hitched up and drove on before breakfast about 9 or 10 miles to a fork here we stopped till noon then drove 5 or 6 miles to the foot of some very steep hills found good grass and water and encamped for night left 2 oxen since we crossed Green river

Friday 4th Drove 18 miles in 4 miles we came to Hams fork quite a stream lots of indians there with trout to swap for bread stopped an hour at noon after passing over a very hilly road in the afternoon we pass over a very level pretty road lined on either side with good grass till the 3 last miles we passed over a very high ridge about a mile up through a grove of Balsam of fir and 2 down to a beautiful rill where we encamped Had good grass Saw 7 graves

Saturday 5th Drove about 12 miles to Bear river where we encamped for the rest of the day had good grass here high not very good water had a very hilly road

Sunday 6th Started at 7 oclock traveled 12 miles and encamped on the river had good grass passed Owens & Wilsons trading post Situated on Thomass Fork Bear River where Father8 bought two yokes of oxen. Crossed the fork & a slough on bridge by paying $1 per wagon saved 8 miles by doing so Our road led into the mountains which was the worst we had passed being steep and running Zigzag in all directions untill it reached the vally of bear river which we reached at dusk

Tuesday 8 Drove some 18 or twenty miles over a smooth & level road passed several small mountain streams or rivulets & encamped in due time on one of the same where have watter and grass

Wedneday 9th Drove about 16 miles in the morning we left the river and passed over some small hills struck the river again at noon where we stopped an hour then drove on and encamped near the 2 mounds that are first seen at the soda springs in the afternoon we crossed a No of spring branches and one beautiful spring on the left side of the road had poor grass

Thursday 10th In the morning we visited the mounds found 1 dry on the other water was oozing out in a No. of places the water is warm and has a mineral taste a little below the mounds is a large beautiful cool soda spring which when put with acid made a good drink Soon after starting we crossed the stream on which we were camped just below the road we found a good soda spring in about a mile we cross another spring above this stream is a large spring and a little below on the river bank is the steamboat spring the greatest curiosity of all here the water spouts up 2 feet from a cilinder formed by the crystallization of the water the water does not flow of [f] very fast but the spouting is caused by the escaping of the gass the water is warm and foams like soap suds there are several mounds here that have formely been springs now dry 5 miles from the springs we left the river which bends to the south and the road to the north through a valley 20 miles in length and 7 in width another road strikes across the valley that goes to calafornia 2 miles from the forks is a soda pool & 2 from the pool a spring branch where we stopped for noon 9 miles more we came to another branch where we encamped for night grass is good on both these branches wood on the last 5 graves

Friday 11th Drove 7 miles crossed 2 small streams came to Port Neuf there was a tole bridge across it but we forded it and had the luck to upset a wagon although it was no worse place than we have crossed many times the wagon and loading were so wet and muddy that we had to lay by the rest of the day but the grass was not good and they said there was a weed or something there that poisoned cattle so we hitched up and started about sun down and drove 8 or 10 miles over the most crooked and difficult road that we had seen stopped about midnight on a little stream not much grass

Saturday 12th Drove about 13 miles stopped at noon an hour and encamped at night on the same stream that we did this morning had good road grass not very good

Sunday 13th Drove 15 miles 3 miles from camp we left the creek and crossed a plain of heavy sand 7 miles in width when we came to big springs where we stopped at noon 4 miles more and we came to fort hall on Snake river the fort is built of adobes we encamped a mile beyond the fort on a slough of the river had good grass

Monday 14th Drove 17 miles 3 miles from camp we crossed a stream 1 more crossed Port Neuf again and a bad slough then ascended the bluffs and drove 5 miles when we came into the bottom again where there was a pond near a bunch of willows here we stopped at noon there is poison here after leaving we saw a number of dead cattle 2 miles from here we came to the river where we camped for night had good grass wood and water

Tuesday 15th Drove 18 miles 1 or 2 miles from our camp we came to the falls, American falls in the Snake or Lewis River which are quite a curiosity of nature the water comes rushing and foaming over rocks a highth of 8 feet forming a spray sufficient to form a rainbow we crossed a small stream in the fore noon stopped at noon where there was good dry bunch grass crossed 2 streams in the afternoon we encamped 2 miles beyond the last Beaver dam creek near the river had the same kind of grass that we did at noon had some very hard hills

Wednesday 16th Drove 20 miles in 8 we came to Casha [Cache] creek stopped 2 hours at noon had good grass from here it is 15 miles to next water Marshy springs we drove till dusk when we stopped to eat our supper went on 12 miles found good [grass?] and encamped at 12 Oclock at night the road is very rough between Casha creek and the springs

Thursday 17 Started before breakfast drove 4 miles round the springs to a little stream where we stopped till nearly noon then drove 11 miles to the river w[h]ere we had a tolerable camp crossed a small stream

Friday 18 Laid by in the forenoon to wash in the afternoon drove 11 miles 4 from camp came to Goose creek 6 more to another stream where there was a good camp we went a mile farther to the river a poor camp no grass

Saturday 19th Drove 22 miles 12 over a very stony road brought us to dry branch where we stopped 2 hours at noon 10 more to Rock creek our camp at night had tolerable grass at both of these streams here we found a company that had been here all day 3 of their guards were shot last night by indians they think one will die

Sunday 20th Drove 15 miles 8 to a creek where we stopped at noon and 1 more we struck the same creek again where we camped at night this creek [has] a narrow bottom bordered with very high steep bluffs here some 30 wagons were encamped not much grass this afternoon we had a dash of rain it lasted but a few minuets and did not lay the dust yet it was the most we have had since leaving Horse shoe creek

Monday 21st Drove 14 miles to the river again where we encamped for night here the opposite side of river is lined with a high perpendicular bank no grass near the river but got very good bunch grass by driving back a mile to the foot of the bluffs

Tuesday 22 Drove 14 miles followed up the river 3 when we struck warm spring branch 4 more to Salmon fall creek where we stopped an hour at noon 2 more we crossed it where was a better camp to the right of the road the water came pouring over the bluffs falling perpendicular 100 feet though in no large quantities 5 more to Salmon falls where we encamped for night here the indians met us with salmon to swap for clothes the largest weighed 20 pounds

Wednesday 23rd Traveled 12 miles passing over high hills and deep ravines and heavy sand stopped an hour at noon and encamped at night near the river had to go down a very steep bluff nearly a mile to get water and up a ravine the other way for grass this morning passed the falls which is a succession of falls all making about 15 feet

Thursday 24th Traveled 13 miles struck the river 2 miles above the ford Here we found a company ferrying in wagon beds we unloaded two of our best waggon beds and commenced calking them got them finished and ferried their loads that night The next day we finished crossing and were ready to roll out Saturday left the river and traveled 17 miles to a small stream encamped for the night had a good camp

Sunday 27 Traveled 15 miles 5 miles brought us to a marshy hollow which wound to right of the direction were traveling Traveled in this marsh 3 miles then drove out leaving this marsh to our right one mile from where we left the marsh and left the road were the hot springs. They boil up in a number of places form a small stream which when it decends into the marsh above spokkene of is cooll and pretty good to drink Where the water here first comes out it is scalding hot around the spring there is a red sediment which makes the water look unfit to drink but on trying it we found no unpleasant taste 4 from the springs brought us to a spring branch upon which encamped 2 hours then drove 4 miles on for the night where found good grass but no watter This day was warm

Monday 28 Drove 19 miles 5 miles brought us to barrel creek where no grass till 11 Oclock there being good grass we then drove till night and camp to the first watter since leaving barrel creek Pass a number of dry branches the one that we encamped on has but little watter the road to barrel creek and for some distance very stony the ballance was hilly being along the base of the mountains but stony

Tuesday 29th Drove 22 miles 4 from camp crossed Charlotts creek 2 more to another branch where we stopped an hour 7 more crossed another dry branch there was water in a pool to the left of the road and excellent grass around but we drove on nine miles to Boisee river did not reach camp till after dark

Wednesday 30th found that we were on a slough of the river and there was good grass between that and the river laid by in the forenoon to let the cattle rest and wash in the afternoon we drove 10 miles and encamped on the river had a good camp came over one of the hardest hills we have had

Thursday 31st Drove 16 or 18 miles Stopped an hour at noon near the river and encamped at night on the river bank our road to day led down the bottom till toward night we saw it led up the bluff we turned town to the river some distance from the road to camp

Friday Aug 1st Traveled 18 miles 2 brought us to the crossing of Boisee river a tolerable ford stopped an hour at noon and encamped at night on Snake river at fort Boisee no grass within 2 miles

Saturday 2nd Got a canoe at the fort and crossed the river carried the load of a wagon at one load and the wagon another got across and drove 6 miles had bunch grass no water

Sunday 3rd Traveled 10 miles to Malheur river arrived about noon laid by the rest of the day near the crossing are several hot springs the water is scalding hot

Monday 4th Drove 20 miles 10 to Sulphur Springs where there was no grass and little water Stopped an hour at noon and 10 more to birch creek where we encamped at night not a very good camp

Tuesday 5th This morning passed a company which camped in sight of us one of their men died about ¼ an hour before of the iricipilus and here was the grave of one of the men shot on Rock creek who had lingered to here was buried yesterday Drove 7 or 8 miles to burnt river where we stopped 2 or 3 hours to fix a wagon tire went 4 or 5 more over a very rough road followed up the river and encamped on it at night not a very good camp

Wednesday 6th Traveled 12 miles crossed the river 8 times and 3 spring branches very warm stopped 2 or 3 hours in the middle of the day Encamped at night on a spring branch

Thursday 7th Traveled 15 miles crossing several spring branches yesterday and to day our road has been very crooked and hilly to day we had another wagon tip over on a very sidling hill and a springy miry place at the bottom there was not water enough to wet the things broke the wagon bows all up the only damage done got some willows and soon twisted up some and went on Encamped at night on a small stream

Friday 8th Traveled 21 or 22 miles stopped 2 hours at noon the last 13 no water and at night nothing but slough water a slough of Powder river good grass had a very hilly road in the afternoon came in sight of the Blue mountains which look blue in the distance being covered with a green growth of timber

Saturday 9th Traveled 13 miles 8 to Powder river where we stopped 2 hours 2 more to the crossing 2 more to a large stream 1 more to a small one where we encamped at night a good camp these bottoms are covered with splendid grass and to our right the Blue mountains covered with timber

Sunday 10th Traveled 14 miles 6 in forenoon over a level road through a rich bottom at the foot of the mountains crossed a number of spring branches stopped an hour at noon in the afternoon we had a very rough rocky road along a long stony hill to go up and down Encamped at night in the edge of Grand round on a little stream good camp

Monday 11th Traveled 7 miles across Grand round which is a circular prairie bottom surrounded by mountains covered with timber. The river passes through the westerly part of the bottom and its course is northeast empties into Lewis or Snake river encamped at the base of a long hard hill the river being some two miles to our right Staid during the day Had good camp

Tuesday August 12th Cool and pleasant traveled about 16 miles 8 miles was up and down a spurr of the mountains (which is covered with fir and pine and most of the way with very good grass) which brought us to grand round river which at this place is hemmed in by the mountains no grass nearer than one or two miles eight miles over the mountain which is cut up by deep ravines brought us to camp or brought us to a stop for it was dark in the morning we found watter in a deep ravine to our left that was runing, a tolerable camp This day we had to climb the hardest hills that we had climbed since we started some had to double teams

Wednesday August 13th Cool and pleasant rained in the night traveled 10 miles and encamped on a small stream called Sus encampment [?] found good grass to the left in the timber The road to day was similar to that of yesterday except but not so hard

Thursday August 14th Cool and pleasant rained in the night traveled 14 miles and encamped on the Eumatilla here we found plenty of indians who brought dried peas and potatoes for which we gave them a measure of flour for the same of peas or potatoes had poor camp, the bottoms and hills near the river were eat down by droves of ponies the country produces well the road was very good most of the way down hill

Friday 15th Traveled 12 miles down the river stopped an hour at noon on the river in the afternoon crossed the river went down a mile to where the road left the river and encamped had a tolerable camp cool and rainy in the forenoon

Saturday 16th Traveled 16 miles across a high rooling prairie stopped an hour at noon and encamped at night on a slough of the river tolerable grass but more brush a very warm pleasant day

Sunday 17th Traveled 17 miles 4 to the river the roads fork near the river one takes down the Columbia river the other crosses the Eumatilla and keeps up from the Columbia bottom here we found a trading post and men employed in building an indian agency the information that we could get was that the left hand was much the best road and grass but water scarce 2 of the wagons of our company chose to go the Columbia road the rest of us crossed the river eat dinner and went 10 miles to Butter creek where there was a plenty of good cool water and good grass where we encamped the road was some sandy a pleasant day

Monday 18 Traveled 20 miles stopped an hour at noon encamped at night at the well springs here are 2 springs about a quarter of a mile apart to the left of the road 1 is good drinking water at the other they watered the cattle by dipping it up no grass near a warm pleasant day our road lay over a roling prairie very dusty

Tuesday 19th Traveled 15 miles stopped an hour at noon and encamped on Willow creek to the right of the road had good water and grass road much like yesterday warm and pleasant

Wednesday 20th Very warm and pleasant drove 22 or 23 miles stopped 2 hours at noon passed sulphur springs took the left hand road which strikes a creek 2 or 3 miles from the springs and followed it down to John Days river the right hand road leads over the bluff directly to the river 5 miles from the springs Did not reach camp untill after dark Plenty of water not very good grass and about the same as yesterday very dusty

Thursday 21st Traveled only 8 or 10 miles 5 down the creek to John Days river where we stopped till about 4 Oclock crossed the river drove on till dark encamped on the prairie without water the road leaving the river follows up a crooked rocky ravine to the top of the bluff

Friday 22nd Traveled about 20 miles started before breakfast intending to go the Well springs which we supposed to be not more than 9 miles distant went that distance and learned they were still ahead and there was not water enough to water the cattle so we stopped and got something to eat then drove to the Columbia 5 miles from the springs and encamped had tolerable grass on the bluffs here the river is lined on the opposite side with very steep high bluffs and on this with huge sand drifts which are blowing about

Saturday 23rd Drove down in sight of the ferry across Dishoots [Deschutes] river 2 miles from our camp found so many wagons there that we could not cross to day and on the Columbia had a tolerable camp

Sunday 24th Crossed the river in safety though the ferry was not very good and the river was very swift and full of rocks drove out 6 miles to a creek and encamped had a tolerable camp

Monday 25th Did not leave camp as some of our company were not well and to wait for the two wagons that went the river road they came up in the afternoon

Tuesday 26th 1 wagon of our company left for the Dalles intending to go down the river we traveled 8 miles to another creek and encamped Had a good road since leaving the river

Wednesday 27 Traveled about 8 miles up the creek and encamped the two last camps have been tolerable