Journal of Our Journey to Oregon

Eugenia Zieber

INTRODUCTION

Eugenia Zieber learned that she would be going on a long overland journey to Oregon when she was a student at the Moravian Seminary for Young Ladies in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania. A letter came from her father in Peoria, Illinois, dated December 23, 1849, telling her about the prospect. Her father’s idea was to move the family to Oregon to be in a more healthy climate.1

It was on April 17, 1851, that she sent a short note to a friend, Elizabeth Skirving, saying, “Dearest Lissie, We leave this afternoon for Oregon, are as busy as bees and a little busier.”2 Then on April 27, ten days later, she wrote the first entry in her diary on “the second Sabbath of our journey.”

Eugenia was 18 years old during the 1851 wagon trip. Her parents were John Shunk and Eliza Sloan Zieber. The other children were Ella, 15 years old; Octavia, 13; John, 10; and Zulette, 7. The first three girls had been born in Princess Anne, Maryland; the other children were born in Peoria.3

John Zieber was a printer and a newspaperman. He had learned the trade as a teenager and then worked for several years for others. Born in Pottsdam, Pennsylvania, he had received his training in Philadelphia, started in the newspaper business in Baltimore, and then on to Cambridge, Maryland, where he met Miss Eliza Sloan. They were married on February 1, 1825, and the two lived together for 53 years before her death. They moved to Princess Anne, Maryland, where on April 3, 1827, they started a newspaper, the Village Herald. Zieber was the publisher of the newspaper for eight years. The next newspaper Zieber founded was the Democratic Press of Peoria, Illinois. He entered politics in 1844 and was elected to one two-year term in the Illinois Legislature. He sold the newspaper in 1845, and the family began making plans to go West.4 It was not until 1851 that they were ready, and it is the story of that journey that is told in Eugenia’s “Journal,” as well as one kept by her father. Zieber’s career in Oregon involved printing, surveying, and farming. Their farm was four miles north of Salem.

Because he was a newspaperman, Zieber got much more attention from the press on arrival in Oregon. The pioneer newspaper, the Oregon Spectator, announced in glowing terms the arrival of the Ziebers in its October 21 issue:

Mr. John S. Zieber, of Peoria, III., arrived here some eight or ten days since with his family, who are all in good spirits, and is residing for the present in Linn City. They encountered many severe trials on the road, having had all their team stolen from them some 500 miles from this place, where it was impossible for them to make an arrangement for the conveyance of themselves and goods, other than what could be made with their company. We are happy to learn that he was fortunate enough to be cared for by some of the company until he reached the Dalles…

It was in Salem that the Ziebers met the most dynamic newspaper man in Oregon at the time, Asahel Bush. He was the publisher of the Oregon Statesman newspaper of Salem, which still comes off the press every day.5 He was a primary force in the Democratic Party and was himself a political power. And:—It was in the autumn of 1854 that the kindly, gentle, devout young lady, Eugenia Zieber, and he were married. The official marriage records of Marion County reveal the following: “BUSH Asahel BUSH & Eugenia ZIEBER, m 14 Oct 1854; Francis Zieber S. Hoyt, M. G. Wit: John Zieber & Albert Zieber.6

So it was that for the next nine years Eugenia and Asahel Bush lived their lives together. During that time, four children were born to them: Estelle, Asahel N., Sally, and Eugenia. They all grew up to attend colleges in the East: Estelle attended her mother’s alma mater, the Moravian Seminary for Young Ladies.

Eugenia, the mother, did not live a long life; she died on September 11, 1863, at the age of 30. She was buried in the Odd Fellows Cemetery underneath a tombstone that reads, “Eugenia Bush: wife of Asahel Bush, born in Princess Anne, Maryland; Jan. 3, 1833; died at Salem, Oregon, Sept. 11, 1863.”7

Today the “Bush House” is part of an historical park, along with the “Bush Barn” and “Bush Pasture.” In the house are the papers of the Bush and Zieber families, and that is where we found her journal and, with permission of the Bush House it is published here. Our special gratitude is due to Jennifer Hagloch, Curator, and to others on the staff for much assistance in gleaning information about Eugenia Zieber Bush and her family.

One final note about Eugenia Zieber: There is an entry in the diary of Judge Matthew Deady on March 29, 1874 (Sunday) that casts an interesting light on how a person’s death can be somehow forgotten in the business of life. Deady tells how he went to Salem to the funeral of a friend. It was “Rather a dreary Pagan affair.” The burial took place at the Odd Fellows Cemetery. Afterwards Deady walked around the “beautiful burying ground,” and he wrote down the following comment: “Saw Mrs Bush[s] grave. Not so well attended as it used to be.”8

THE JOURNAL OF EUGENIA ZIEBER

April 27, 1851. This is the second Sabbath of our journey. This morning it was windy and unpleasantly cold, but this afternoon the sun is shining brightly, and though the wind still blows ugly, it is warm, and everything seems cheerful, rejoicing in the goodness of its Creator. I often think, as I look up at the bright sky above, around upon the hills, the rocks, woods, and the birds and mighty river, or the sweetly babbling brook that each is giving its ardent adoration to its God not only for creating them but also for his constant care for them. For God does certainly care for them. Does he not each successive Spring renew the verdure of the hills and woods, sprinkle the ground with beautiful flowers, and is he not constantly refreshing by rain, etc., the rivers and brooks. God does indeed constantly watch over everything he has created and man, sinful man is not the last to be cared for, but all this is created for his happiness. We have camped for the day in the woods, several miles from Birmingham, Iowa. It is pleasant thus to be alone (Mr. Kern’s9 family & our own) separated from all the world, and yet with all our thoughts are mingled those of absent friends, of past privileges of hearing the word of God. But what greater earthly preacher can be heard than Nature. Continually is she giving some good instruction, some kind word of encouragement, which none are apt to heed except those who have learned to love God in sincerity and truth. Oh, that more were among that number. At noon Mr. Kern’s children and our’s including myself, went in the woods and held a Sabbath school.10 We sang a hymn, read the 27th psalm, spoke of it, read a tract, sang the doxology: “Praise God from whom all blessings flow” then returned to the camp. It was very pleasant and I trust that good Being of whom we met to converse, looked upon us approvingly. We had been a week on our journey yesterday about 11 o’clock. Last Sabbath we spent at Mr. Gideaon Thomas’. He and family were very kind to us, refused to receive any pay for our board, though we were there two nights & a day. He is an old friend of father’s. They seem to be a fine family. In the evening (Sunday) I took out my bundle of tracts to distribute them or rather leave some with the family, and in a humorous way I was told to give one to Jacob Slough,11 for he had been heard to say that morning promenade all, and so of course must have been dancing. I looked at my tracts and found that the 2nd one in the pack treated upon dancing. I handed it to him and turned to offer one to Mr. Andrews,12 a young man who drives for Mr. Kerns, but he refused decidedly to accept it. Polite! Jacob Slough drives for us. Monday night we camped opposite Mr. Butt’s house, also an old friend of father’s slept in one of his rooms. Had quite a time cooking and eating supper. Tuesday we passed Mr. Wells’. Father stopped and spoke to him. We rode on. Mr. W. was very sorry. He wished us to dine. When we stopped at a Mr.—’s to dine, he (Mr. W.) came riding after us, bringing father a bag of oats, a shoulder and a ham. Very kind of him. We camped out and slept in our tent that and every night since. We have had very pleasant weather generally, and are all in good spirits enjoying ourselves. We were obliged to leave our cooking stove behind at Burlington it being a perfect humbug, and buy cooking utensils for a camping fire.

Monday, 28th. Left our camping place early this morning. It was rather cool but towards noon became quite pleasant. We passed through three small towns, the first was only a mile from our camp ground, its name Winchester. The second, Birmingham. The children were quite disappointed here. When approaching it they thought they saw a short tower, but it turned out to be a large chimney, used in some manufacturing establishment. The third place was Libertyville. The inhabitants ought to be very patriotic, to suit the name. We camped this evening in the road opposite to a farm house. It was cool (and refreshing), but passed the night very comfortably. Father and Mr. Kern kept watch tonight, Jacob and Mr. Andrews last night.

Tuesday, 29. Cloudy morning. Passed through Agency City and from thence on to Ottumwa. Before we reached this place it commenced raining & hailing, then turned into a perfect snow storm. A very unpleasant day. Passed Mr. Noland13 in that place. He has ox teams. About noon in crossing a ditch the chain, connecting the horses, broke, leaving the wagon in the ditch. It was the four horse team. We were near a house, in which we went to warm ourselves. Father, Jacob, Mr. Kern and two gentlemen, who offered to assist them succeeded in lifting the wagon out. It continued snowing until about four o’clock, the wind blowing hard. We put up for the night at a Mr. Miller’s. The K family were very kind. Everything was quite comfortable.

Wednesday, 30th. With a very early start, thought to have a long drive, but were sadly disappointed. At Eddyville, four miles from Mr. Miller’s we crossed the Des Moin’s river, in a ferry boat. Went on several miles, until about noon, when we stopped to feed in a valley, through which a pretty stream of water runs. We took our dinner here, which consisted of bread, crackers, chip beef, cheese and cold fried meat. This, or what we took of it, we held in our hands and sat on logs, stumps, etc., to partake of it. Many would look upon this as a most awkward way of eating, but I think it really pleasant. The sky above you clearly seen, not kept from your sight by any obstructing roof. The trees looking fresh & happy around you, and flowers peeping up from the bright grass, as though desirous of taking notes of your proceedings. Who would not prefer this to a table profusely covered with dishes filled with dainties of every kind, shut up in a house, the work of art! Give me rather fair Nature’s beauties shed abroad to my view, and ’twill lend a charm to everything.—After dinner we took the wrong road, and lost a full hour’s time in returning to it. We came to Albia, the county seat of—county, late in the evening. Had great difficulty in procuring accommodations. It being much too late to camp out. We ate in one house and slept in another. The Landlady was a real greahead [grayhead?] body and could scarcely wait for us to pull off our cloaks and shawls before she ushered us our supper. We had to sleep in a room, where a man & wife slept in one bed and a man in another. Both men turned toward us and seemed determined to see everything we had to do. Mother and I spread our beds on the floor, put the children to bed and waited until they had gone to sleep before we retired. The wind came in at the cracks in the side of the house and swept over us, as much as though we were out doors.

Thursday May 1st. 1851—Did not start upon our journey until after 9 o’clock. A very cold windy day. Wrapped ourselves in blankets, but still were cold. After traveling 3½ miles we came to Clark’s Point. Went in to Mr. Clark’s and warmed ourselves. How strange to have such cold weather at this season of the year. And from C—’s Point we traveled about 15 or 16 miles to Mr. Prather’s, stopping on the way at a big house to warm, and feed, but finding we were only a little distance from Mr. Prather’s we did not feed but kept on. The lady of the house we stopped at was very pretty. She was quilting. Had three children. Everything looked clean and nice about her. Mrs. Prather is a very kind, motherly lady, pleasant withal. Gave us a plain but good supper. Some excellent corn cakes. Do not remember whenever I ate a heartier meal. We had one bed in the room, there were three, in which we put Ella, Occa & Zule, and spread one of our beds for Mother, John and myself. Father slept in the wagon, Jacob also. Several men slept in the room, but were more polite than those of last night, turning round and going to sleep immediately—.

Friday May 2nd. Had more corn cakes for breakfast. They are excellent, wish we could have them all the way. It is snowing again. What a time we have. I am afraid we shall not be able to travel to day. As I expected we could not go to day, but were obliged to remain in the house the whole day. Snow fell to the depth of four or five feet. In the afernoon it rained, washing it all (nearly) away, now there is scarcely any to be seen. Everything is very comfortable here. I cannot but think how much happier these people, who live in log or some house of that kind, than those are who live in the greatest style wealth can afford. They appear to me at least to be happier. They have not the thousand and one things to annoy them that the wealthy have. Their minds are at rest, and frequently enjoying communion with God. Give me a lowly cottage, where love to God and unity of feeling, among the members of the household, exist, in preference to the greatest palace, where these are absent. “Lay not up for yourselves treasures on earth where moth and dust doth corrupt, and thieves break through and steel.” But in Heaven our treasure must be, where nothing injurious will even attempt to touch it. For “where our treasures are there will our hearts be also.”—

Saturday 3rd of May. Cloudy damp morning, but much warmer than it was yesterday, but it is dreadfully muddy, it (the mud) clings to one’s feet, it is almost impossible to get it off. We think we shall set out to day. We bade Mr. Prather & family farewell this morning a little after seven o’clock. I shall ever remember their [kindness] to us during our short stay with them. The sun shone out a little while this mornig, but it is again cloudy. We crossed a prairy again this morning, which was filled with gopher or goffer hills. Strange that animals so small can build or throw up such mounds of earth. They must labor hard. Camped on the prairy this evening in front of a log cabin.

Sunday, May 11, 1851.—

Sunday, June 15th. 1851 More than a month has slipped me by since I endeavored to write a few lines in my journal, and now I am many miles—

Sunday June 22nd, 1851. (On) another Sabbath do I attempt to write a few lines in my journal, which has been long neglected. There is scarcely time, upon such a journey, for those who have aught that is essentially necessary to do, to keep a diary. It must be done by snatches or at any moment, or not at all. That does not suit every one.—We are now many miles from the Missouri river. When I last wrote we had not arrived at Kanesville. We were precisely three weeks in traveling there from Peoria, remained there two weeks waiting there for Mr. Webster,14 who was detained unexpectedly, and therefore could not meet us at K. – e agreeably to his promise. We had quite a pretty camping ground there, but it rained nearly every day during our stay, which rendered it rather unpleasant. Rev. Mr. Simpson, the Methodist minister of the place, to whom we had a letter of introduction from Bishop Hamlin, proved to be a very intelligent pleasant person. I should like to become well acquainted with him.—Mr. Webster came at last, bringing me a letter from Mrs Stebbins, my Peoria mother. It was like herself, full of pleasantry, yet not devoid of seriousness, but giving many kind instructions (for my benefit), and earnest wishes for our future happiness. Mr. Webster was very obliging, and kind at first, but I cannot help but speak of him with an old saying, “a new broom sweeps clean.” It was literally the case with him, for he has proved to be one of the most contrary, disobliging persons: evil I might truthfully say, ever met with. He purchased two useless Indian ponies at Kanesville, which he had been trying to work in the wagon with the others, a week or two back, nearly ruining all his other horses, by obliging them to pull the whole load at a great distance from the wagon. Mr. Slough continues pleasant and kind. Until a few days back we have had difficulty traveling through mud and water (since we left the Missouri.) It was very hard upon the horses, now however we have good roads. The first stream of any account they came to, named Papea, had to be bridged. Here we fell in company with a Mr. Palmer,15 and [sic] elderly gentleman, with three sons and two daughters. Besides several others in company, with whom I am not acquainted. The Elk Horn, a stream about nine miles distant from the other [s], had overflown its banks before we arrived, and we had poor prospects of crossing it at first. Here Mr. Palmer, Mr. Bowman,16—Brown,17—Grey,18 a number of others and father formed a company bought ferry boats and ferried us across themselves. Since then we have [all] been traveling in company together with Mr. Palmer as Capt. except a few persons who left us. Mr. Bohl,19 a gentleman from Peoria, went with us some time, but left us last week joining a horse company (who crossed the Elk Horn with us.) Mr. Kern is also in that company. Mr. Grey has a horse team: the others of our company have oxen. They have been exceedingly kind, helping us whenever we were in difficulty, frequently drawing our wagon out of the snow with their oxen. This last week they ferried over three creeks in wagon bodies; very hard work, (and) nearly put some of our number out of heart. However all are in good spirits now. Yesterday a great herd of buffalo came in sight, three passed quite near us. A number put off in pursuit of them. Mr. Slough one among the number. He helped to kill one, brought some of the meat home. We breakfasted upon it this morning, tasted very well. To day we saw a number returning from the river (the Platte, between 2 & 3 hundred miles from Mormon Winter Quarters we are now) they had been there for water. We are traveling to day. I regret doing so, but the company generally are not willing to lie by, and we of course who would like to, being the smaller number, must comply with the other’s wishes. It is very warm, but little air stirring to day.—This evening it is cool and rather windy again. I can scarcely make myself believe that this is Sunday, because we are traveling, it does not seem right. A watch was lost by one of the company to day, a very valuable one I believe. Camped on a small branch of the Platte. We are to remain here tomorrow the women are to wash, the men to search for the watch, and go hunting.

Monday 23rd. Today seems like Sunday, or as though it ought to be. Yet when we commence washing it will not seem thus. We have a most lovely place to wash. Good water for washing close at hand, we are shaded by trees, and there are bushes near by on which we can spread the clothes. There is also quite a pleasant breeze stirring. The water looks tempting. How pleasant it would be to go in wading.—They were not successful in their search for the watch. A great pity. A little after four a heavy cloud was blown up and threatened us with a heavy rain, but we escaped with a few large hail stones. Many such would leave us destitute of wagons and destroy our provisions. Luna Palmer20 came over this evening and asked me to go over to their tent, they intended having a concert. I went. Several young men played upon flutes, and the rest joined in with singing. Quite a pleasant evening or way of spending it. Bennett, or Mr. B—21 I should say did most of the singing. He is a merry person. Returned (he) with Ella and me to our tent and bade us good evening. I shall be sorry to leave our pretty wash. house in the morning. How soon one becomes attached to place, and the recollection of it always adds a charm.

Tuesday 24. Made quite a long drive to day. Crossed Skunk creek. 7½ miles from there came to two springs of nice cold water. We passed the first without noticing it, expecting to find it on the other side of the road. Some who stopped by for their noon halt said it was much prettier than the one we were at, though it was beautiful. The water boiled up from the center and spread out into a sort of basin, a stream flowed from it. Came about 22 or 3 miles to day. Camped on a little stream, but know nothing much of the camp ground as it is raining and we are weather bound in the wagons. The dust has been very disagreeable to day, and the rain will settle it, a favor for us. Besides it is refreshing, for the day was an exceedingly warm one.—

Sunday 29th. A very disagreeable day. The wind is blowing hard, and it is quite cold. Traveling again today, I do wish the company could be prevailed upon to rest on Sundays. It would be better in every respect, both in regard to duty, and the welfare of our teams. Pleasanter this evening. We are camped by a spring of excellent water.

Monday. 30th. A lovely day, with one exception, it is rather warm. The road sandy and hard upon our teams. Mother and I walked nearly all the morning. Father and Mr. Slough generally walk the greater part of the time. We passed a place to day, called Ancient Ruins. Father; (and) mother & I went to see them, climbed up one of the highest hills or mountains, enjoyed the view from there very much. The only trouble was our time was too limited. We had not leisure to look around and examine anything. The Palmers are offended with us about something or other, cannot tell what. Mr. Webster has been talking, I reckon. Cornelius is the only one though, who shows any ill feeling, or I should say shows that he has any hard feelings about us.

Tuesday. July 1. 1851. Camped this evening on the prairy, a long distance from the river, & opposite to Chimney Rock, an object of curiosity. It has been in sight all day. Some few went across to it. We would have been pleased to have gone, but could not. Musketoes are miserably bad tonight. Strange Captain Palmer, or Perkins it is now, should be so unfortunate in the selection of their camping grounds. Dr. Perkins,22 from Indiana was elected Capt. Saturday evening, but for all, our former Capt. seems to hold the office still.

Wednesday, July 2nd. 1851. Scott’s Bluffs were in view when we started this morning and although they appeared near, we were obliged to travel a long distanc before reaching them. They are objects of greater interest than the Ancient Ruins or Chimney Rock. And I think deserve the name of ancient Ruins much more than those that bear it. It was a grand sight. When opposite to them (they are on the other [South] side of the Platte) We saw a storm approaching, following the course of the river. A dark cloud hung over the Bluffs, increasing or heightening the grandeur of their appearance to a great degree We gazed upon it in perfect delight, but suddenly the whole scene was enveloped in darkness, completely hid from our view. The wind in a short time changed its course, blowing towards us. Consequently we had our share of the storm, which was tolerably severe Some hail fell, but not sufficient to do any damage to our wagons. Only enough to frighten us a little. We camped in a most dreary looking spot, at a distance from water, and no wood to be seen, and here are only a short distance from Spring creek, 3 miles I believe. How strange such a place is selected, when a better is so near. Father got quite wet holding the horses, who were unruly, during the storm. I fear he will take cold.

July 3rd. Had a beautiful camping ground this evening. John climbed the mountains or bluffs which were close by, and seemed delighted at being allowed the privilege.

July 4. The cattle had a stampede to day. The only thing nearly that was done in the way of celebrating the fourth. The stampede was started by dog’s jumping out suddenly from under one of the wagons No harm done. I must not forget that the young men marched round the camp this evening after supper, whistling Yank Doodle. Mrs. Bowman, Brown, mother and I caught up some tin pans and sticks and started after, but backed out. Could not go quite so far. We passed an Indian lodge today, and opposite it, on the other side of the river, was an Indian village. It looked well from a distance. This evening an Indian came to our tent begging. We are now among the Sioux tribe, a finer looking race than the Pawnee.

July 5th. Came to or rather opposite to Ft. Laramie to day. Camped about five miles above it, near the Platte. Found a spring on the shore, of excellent water. A number went across to the Ft. No letters there for us. It would be pleasant to hear from Peoria.

Sunday July 6.—To day a part of the company started ahead, the Palmers, Dr. Perkins and two other families. The remainder of us determined to keep the Sabbath again, & allow our teams rest. The Palmers are bound to rush on, but have promised to wait to-morrow for us. They pretend they wish to find better grass, though there is no prospect of their being successful. They are generally disliked, and they have also little friendly feelings towards some of us. It is supposed they intend leaving us, thinking the most of the company would follow them. By us, I mean, Browns, Bowmans, Grey’s and our family. But they were disappointed. The Barnetts23 are two of them brothers, and a Mr. Bennett is with them, having one team. Mr. Stearns,24 Vincent25 and a boy named John—.26 also owning one team. Mr. Wilhelm27 and Charlie (Mr. Hammond)28 one team, all remained with us. These the Palmers wished to have with them, but they refused to go, and their company is so small, they are afraid to go on alone. It is a relief to have them gone, they are so profane and noisy.—How pleasant again to rest upon the Sabbath, to have time and opportuiity to read and reflect upon the word of God. Father, I am remiss in this my duty to thee. Forgive, forgive I am constantly obliged to cry. Oh! enable me to be more faithful in discharge of duty.

July 7. Hard traveling to day up and down sandy, stony hills continually. Caught a view of the government farm belong[ing] to Ft. Laramie. Mr. George Barnett has loaned us (Ella and I) his grey horse to ride. Ella rode this morning, I this afternoon. Mr. Wilhelm rode all the afternoon with me. I was pleased with him or rather his conversation. He is a fine person. Once, some time back, through mismanagement of the horses a large wagon was suddenly wheeled around and every spoke of one of the small wheels was broken. Mr. Wilhelm, and Mr. Minor,29 (who is in company with Mr. Bowman) very kindly mended the wheel, which was rendering us great service, and we are much indebted to them. The Palmers did wait for us. They have spent the day in resetting their tires to their wagons. A most lovely evening. The moon is shining brightly, and it is quite calm. One dislikes to close her eyes upon such an evening. Gladly would I sit and think over scenes and pleasures past & gone: but rest is needed.

July 8th. The Palmers started ahead again today, were to drive only a short distance, we to remain, until our tires were set and then overtake them. They however drove farther than they intended, so we have not caught up with them. Another delightful evening. Camped by a small but excellent spring.

Wednesday July 9.—Have overtaken the Palmers and are going on in our old way again. The old gentleman seems very desirous that all should keep together, and be friendly. No knowing, however, how long they will agree.

Sunday 13. 1851. Delightful camping place, as pretty as we have ever had. We are near the Platte, among the trees. It is cool and pleasant, and the sweet songs of birds charm (s) the ear. All Nature is beautiful and rejoicing, and we can but share its happiness. Another Sabbath has dawned upon us, another week is begun. Oh that it may be spent profitably, and in the praise of our Almighty Parent.

Tuesday July 15th. Came to the Upper Ferry to day, and then had to make sixteen miles without wood water or grass. The arrangement about starting upon this desert stretch was a bad one, having to commence it at noon. The Captain (Mr. Stearns, elected last Saturday evening) was out hunting. The Palmer company would not wait to see what the Capt. wished, but rushed ahead, the rest refused to follow at first, but afterwards concluded to go on, yet refusing to have anything to do with the other company again. When evening came we were upon a bluff, at a distance from water, wood and grass. They (our company) went a few miles beyond the Palmers, then stopped to rest their cattle. We being ahead had stopped with the P—s, but when the moon rose we started on, our company joined us, and we went on to a small stream of clear cold water. It was a beautiful, moonlight evening, but I was too sleepy to enjoy it. We passed Rock Avenue, but I knew nothing of it, until we were through it. I regretted it very much. –

Wednesday July 16. Camped upon one side of Grease wood creek, Palmers on the other. They tried to persuade Charlie & Mr. Wilhelm also Mr. Stearns and those with him to leave us and join them, but they refused.—

Thursday 17. Came to Sweet water river to day at noon. This afternoon I was riding with Mr. Wilhelm & George Barnett. We passed Independence Rock. I was rather disappointed in this. It is certainly a fine rock, but being surrounded by hills even higher than itself, it did not appear at all to advantage. Though being disappointed in what I thought it would be like, I may not have considered it in as favorable a light as I should have done. Soon after we came in sight of Devil’s Gate. Mr. Barnett, Senior, Wilhelm and I went down on horseback to take a view of it. Mr. John Brown and Bailis,30 walked down. We went on horseback as far as we could, then dismounted, (Mr. Barnett remained to take charge of the horses.) and proceeded through the whole gate. If it had not been for Mr. Wilhelm’s assistance, I could not have gone through very easily, but he very kindly helped me across the stream and down the rocks—

Oct. Sunday 26th. 1851 We are now in Oregon City, were here two weeks yesterday. Yes we are at the end of our journey, and on some accounts I half regret it, on others am heartily glad. Our journey was a long one, lasted too long, so that we became uneasy, fearing the rainy season would set in before we would reach the end of it. But now we are here, have been two weeks, and no rain(s) until last night have we had, (though I must not forget that we were well favored in that line while at the Cascades of the Columbia river) this morning it cleared off and the remainder of the day so far has been pleasant, though no telling how soon it may cloud up. Right between the hills, a cloud could come upon us without our knowing it until we are greeted by it. Oregon City has a strange location. Among rocks, and right up against a high hill, though the water power here was no doubt the occasion of a city’s being built here. We are residing across the river (Willamette) from Oregon City, in what is called Linn City. Every little place here assumes the title of city. We are but a few yards from the falls, having a fine view of them from our windows on the right hand side, on the left we see O.—C.—. Our situation here taking it altogether is rather a pleasant one and a very private one. Father only intends spending the winter here, may not remain all of that, thinks of making his claim and settling upon it, but must look around and endeavor to select one that will please him well. Not worth while to take the very first ground we meet, whether it suits or not, after coming so far for it. Albert is with us again.31 Came on to where the road comes to the Columbia river, there he met us. A happy meeting it was too. Glad, delighted were we all to see him. Once more we are all together again, the first time for three years. He has been very kind in assisting us along. We should not have done so well, had it not been for him.—I was obliged to give up keeping a journal, there was not sufficient idle time for me to write every day, so that I would get behind hand, then could not fill up the space, so concluded to let it go altogether. I regret that I had to do so. When I last wrote I was speaking of Devil’s Gate. Never before was I so delighted with a view of any kind. It was a splendid sight. The walls on each side three hundred feet almost perpendicular, the water rushing through over the rocks, the sweet songs of birds mingling with its roar and the last rays of the sun reflected from rock to rock illuminating the whole scene then dying away as it were upon the many beautiful flowers around us, all burst upon our astonished sight at once. Every…