KLONDIKE BLUFFS AND TOWER ARCH
A concentration of rock arches of marvelous variety has formed within the maze of sandstone fins at Arches National Park, one of the most popular national parks in the United States. Balanced rocks and tall spires add to the splendor. Paved roads and short hiking trails provide easy access to some of the more than 1,500 arches in the park. If you’re short on time, a drive through the Windows Section (23.5 miles round-trip) affords a look at some of the largest and most spectacular arches. To visit all the stops and hike a few short trails takes a full day.
Most of the early settlers and cowboys who passed through the Arches area paid little attention to the scenery. In 1923, however, a prospector by the name of Alexander Ringhoffer interested officials of the Rio Grande Railroad in the scenic attractions at what he called Devils Garden, now known as Klondike Bluffs. The railroad people liked the area and contacted Stephen Mather, the first director of the National Park Service. Mather started the political process that led to designating two small areas as a national monument in 1929, but Ringhoffer’s Devils Garden wasn’t included until later. The monument grew in size over the years and became Arches National Park in 1971. The park now comprises 76,519 acres—small enough to be appreciated in one day, yet large enough to warrant extensive exploration.
LOOK FOR M TO FIND RECOMMENDED SIGHTS, ACTIVITIES, DINING, AND LODGING.
M Balanced Rock: An unbelievable spire-upon-spire balancing act rising 128 feet from the desert, Balanced Rock is sure to give your camera a warm-up (click here).
M Windows Section: Some of the park’s largest arches are here—so are some of its largest crowds. But you have to go: Make it past the first arch and the crowds thin out (click here).
M Delicate Arch Trail: Delicate Arch is beautiful when seen from the easily reached viewpoint. It’s mystical when seen close up, after a tough 1.5-mile hike to its base. If you’re not up to the hike, at least follow the trail across the Salt Wash footbridge and turn left to find a striking but often overlooked rock art panel, carved by Ute artists about 400 years ago (click here).
M Fiery Furnace Trail: To reach this unusual wonderland of rock mazes, fins, and turrets, hikers should join a ranger-led tour. Hikes into this red-rock landscape are popular, so go online and book your tour in advance (click here).
M Devils Garden Loop: This 7.2-mile loop trail, leading to eight named arches and through a landscape of bizarre rock fins, offers the park’s best day hiking (click here).
M Tower Arch Trail: This spire, with an arch at its base, is one of the park’s most beautiful but neglected sights. The formation in Arches’ backcountry is off-limits to the RV set—you’ll need a high-clearance vehicle (click here).
Thanks to unrelenting erosion, the arches themselves are constantly changing. Every so often there’s a dramatic change, as there was during the summer of 2008 when Wall Arch, a 71-foot span on the Devils Garden Trail, collapsed.
If you only have part of the day to explore, drive the 18-mile length of the main park road with brief stops at Balanced Rock and the Delicate Arch viewpoint. At the road’s end, set out on the Devils Garden Trail, but take only the trip to Tunnel and Pine Tree Arches. If you still have some time, stop on the way back out of the park and take a stroll on the Park Avenue Trail.
A full day in the park allows plenty of time to stop at the visitors center and then hike the full Delicate Arch Trail and explore Devils Garden. Energetic hikers may want to do the entire 7.2-mile loop in Devils Garden; those who want less of a workout can walk the one-mile-long trail to Landscape Arch.
If you have more than one day to spend, plan ahead and register online for a ranger-led hike into the Fiery Furnace area of the park. This takes about half a day; for the other half, head out via car or mountain bike to Tower Arch Trail.
Although Arches is known more for day hiking than backpacking, park rangers can help you put together a backpacking trip and issue the required backcountry permit.
The entrance to Arches National Park (435/719-2299, www.nps.gov/arch, $10 per vehicle, $5 bicyclists, motorcyclists, and pedestrians) is five miles north of downtown Moab on U.S. 191.
Located just past the park entrance booth, the expansive visitors center (7:30am-6:30pm daily Apr.-Oct., 8am-4:30pm daily Nov.-Mar.) provides a good introduction to what you can expect ahead. Exhibits identify the rock layers, describe the geologic and human history, and illustrate some of the wildlife and plants of the park. A large outdoor plaza is a good place to troll for information when the visitors center is closed.
A short slide program runs regularly, and staff members are available to answer your questions, issue backcountry permits, and check you in for a ranger-led tour in the Fiery Furnace area of the park. Look for the posted list of special activities; rangers host campfire programs and lead a wide variety of guided walks April-September. You’ll also find checklists, pamphlets, books, maps, posters, postcards, and film for purchase. See the rangers for advice and the free backcountry permit required for overnight trips. The easy 0.2-mile Desert Nature Trail begins near the visitors center and identifies some of the native plants. Picnic areas are outside the visitors center and at Balanced Rock and Devils Garden.
Desert bighorn sheep frequent the area around the visitors center and can sometimes be seen from U.S. 191 just south of the park entrance. A sheep crossing about three miles north of the visitors center is also a good place to scan the steep talus slopes for these nimble animals.
A road guide to Arches National Park, available at the visitors center, has detailed descriptions that correspond to place-names along the main road. Be sure to stop only in parking lots and designated pullouts. Watch out for others who are sightseeing in this popular park. With less than 30 miles of paved road, the traffic can be surprisingly heavy in the summer high season.
The aptly named Balanced Rock only looks precarious.
If your plans include visiting Canyonlands National Park plus Hovenweep and Natural Bridges National Monuments, consider the socalled Local Passport ($25), which buys entry to all of these federal preserves. Purchase the pass at any of the park or national monument entrances.
The park road begins a long but well-graded climb from the visitors center up the cliffs to the northeast. A pullout on the right after 1.1 miles offers a good view of Moab Canyon and its geology. The rock layers on this side of the canyon have slipped down more than 2,600 feet in relation to the other side. Movement took place about six million years ago along the Moab Fault, which follows the canyon floor. Rock layers at the top of the far cliffs are nearly the same age as those at the bottom on this side. If you could stack the rocks of this side on top of rocks on the other side, you’d have a complete stratigraphic column of the Moab area—more than 150 million years’ worth.
South Park Avenue overlook and trailhead are on the left 2.1 miles from the visitors center. Great sandstone slabs form a skyline on each side of this dry wash. A trail goes north one mile down the wash to the North Park Avenue trailhead (1.3 miles ahead by road). Arrange to be picked up there, or backtrack to your starting point. The large rock monoliths of Courthouse Towers rise north of Park Avenue. Only a few small arches exist now, although major arches may have formed there in the past.
This gravity-defying formation is on the right, 8.5 miles from the visitors center. A boulder more than 55 feet high rests precariously atop a 73-foot pedestal. Chip Off the Old Block, a much smaller version of Balanced Rock, stood nearby until it collapsed in the winter of 1975-1976. For a closer look at Balanced Rock, take the 0.3-mile trail encircling it. There’s a picnic area across the road. Author Edward Abbey lived in a trailer near Balanced Rock for a season as a park ranger in the 1950s; his journal became the basis for the classic Desert Solitaire.
The Windows Section is a good place for a short hike.
The Windows Section of Arches is located 2.5 miles past Balanced Rock, on a paved road to the right. Short trails (0.25-1 mile one-way) lead from the road’s end to some massive arches. Windows trailhead is the start for North Window (an opening 51 feet high and 93 feet wide), South Window (66 feet high and 105 feet wide), and Turret Arch (64 feet high and 39 feet wide). Double Arch, a short walk from a second trailhead, is an unusual pair of arches; the larger opening—105 feet high and 163 feet wide—is best appreciated by walking inside. The smaller opening is 61 feet high and 60 feet wide. Together, the two arches frame a large opening overhead.
Garden of Eden Viewpoint, on the way back to the main road, promises a good panorama of Salt Valley to the north. Under the valley, the massive body of salt and gypsum that’s responsible for the arches comes close to the surface. Far-off Delicate Arch can be seen across the valley on a sandstone ridge. Early visitors to the Garden of Eden saw rock formations resembling Adam (with an apple) and Eve. Two other viewpoints of the Salt Valley area lie farther north on the main road.
A bit of pioneer history survives at Wolfe Ranch, 2.5 miles north on the main road from the Windows junction (turn right and drive 1.8 miles to the parking area). John Wesley Wolfe came to this spot in 1888, hoping the desert climate would provide relief for health problems related to a Civil War injury. He found a good spring high in the rocks, grass for cattle, and water in Salt Wash to irrigate a garden. The ranch that he built provided a home for him and some of his family for more than 20 years, and cattlemen later used it as a line ranch. Then sheepherders brought in their animals, which so overgrazed the range that the grass has yet to recover. A trail guide available at the entrance tells about the Wolfe family and the features of their ranch. The weather-beaten cabin built in 1906 still survives. A short trail leads to petroglyphs above Wolfe Ranch; figures of horses indicate that Ute people, rather than earlier inhabitants, did the artwork. Park staff can give directions to other rock-art sites; great care should be taken not to touch the fragile artwork.
Sign up in advance for a ranger-led hike through the Fiery Furnace.
Delicate Arch stands in a magnificent setting atop gracefully curving slickrock. Distant canyons and the La Sal Mountains lie beyond. The span is 45 feet high and 33 feet wide. A moderately strenuous three-mile round-trip hike leads to the arch. Another perspective on Delicate Arch can be obtained by driving 1.2 miles beyond Wolfe Ranch. Look for the small arch high above. A short, steep trail (0.5 miles round-trip) climbs a hill for the best view.
The Fiery Furnace Viewpoint and trailhead are three miles from the Wolfe Ranch junction, on the right side of the main road. The Fiery Furnace gets its name from sandstone fins that turn flaming red on occasions when thin cloud cover at the horizon reflects the warm light of sunrise or sunset. The shady recesses beneath the fins provide a cool respite from the hot summer sun.
Closely packed sandstone fins form a maze of deep slots, with many arches and at least one natural bridge inside. Both for safety reasons and to reduce human impact on this sensitive area, which harbors several species of rare plants, hikers are encouraged to join a ranger-led hike. The hike is moderately strenuous and involves steep ledges, squeezing through narrow cracks, a couple of jumps, and hoisting yourself up off the ground. There is no turning back once the hike starts, so make sure you’re physically prepared and properly equipped.
Rangers lead three-hour hikes (Mar.-Oct., $10 adults, $5 ages 5-12 and Interagency Senior Pass holders) into the Fiery Furnace twice each day. Unlike most ranger-led activities, a fee is charged for these hikes. Group size is limited to about 20 people, and it is not recommended for children under age five. Walks often fill weeks in advance. Make reservations online at www.recreation.gov or in person at the visitors center up to seven days in advance. To visit the Fiery Furnace without a ranger, visitors must obtain a permit ($5 pp) at the visitors center. A couple of Moab outfitters also lead hikes into the Fiery Furnace; these cost considerably more, but there’s usually space available.
This arch is on the right, one mile past the Sand Dune/Broken Arch trailhead. In desert climates, erosion can proceed imperceptibly for centuries until a cataclysmic event happens. In 1940 a giant boulder fell from the opening of Skyline Arch, doubling the size of the arch in seconds. The hole is now 45 feet high and 69 feet wide. A short trail leads to the base of the arch.
The Devils Garden trailhead, picnic area, and campground are all near the end of the main park road. Devils Garden offers fine scenery and more arches than any other section of the park. The hiking trail leads past large sandstone fins to Landscape and six other named arches. Carry water if the weather is hot or if you might want to continue past the one-mile point at Landscape Arch. Adventurous hikers could spend days exploring the maze of canyons among the fins.
Relatively few visitors come to the spires, high bluffs, and fine arch in this northwestern section of the park. A fair-weather dirt road turns off the main drive 1.3 miles before Devils Garden trailhead, winds down into Salt Valley, and heads northwest. After 7.5 miles, turn left on the road to Klondike Bluffs and proceed one mile to the Tower Arch trailhead. These roads may have washboards, but they are usually passable by cars in dry weather; don’t drive on them if storms threaten. The trail to Tower Arch winds past the Marching Men and other rock formations (3 miles round-trip). Alexander Ringhoffer, who discovered the arch in 1922, carved an inscription on the south column. The area can also be fun to explore off-trail with a map and compass or a GPS receiver. Those with 4WD vehicles can drive close to the arch on a separate jeep road. Tower Arch has an opening 34 feet high by 92 feet wide. A tall monolith nearby gave the arch its name.
A rough road near Tower Arch in the Klondike Bluffs turns southeast past Eye of the Whale Arch in Herdina Park to Balanced Rock on the main park road, 10.8 miles away. The road isn’t particularly difficult for 4WD enthusiasts, although normal backcountry precautions should be taken. A steep sand hill north of Eye of the Whale Arch is difficult to climb for vehicles coming from Balanced Rock; it’s better to drive from the Tower Arch area instead.
Because of its great popularity and proximity to Moab, Arches sees a lot of visitors. Most are content, however, to drive the parkways and perhaps saunter to undemanding viewpoints. You can quickly leave the crowds behind by planning a hike to more outlying destinations. Arches’ outback offers magnificent rewards for hikers willing to leave the pavement behind and get dusty on a backcountry trail.
Established hiking trails lead to many fine arches and overlooks that can’t be seen from the road. You’re free to wander cross-country, too, but stay on rock or in washes to avoid damaging the fragile cryptobiotic soils. Wear good walking shoes with rubber soles for travel across slickrock. The summer sun can be especially harsh on the unprepared hiker—don’t forget water, a hat, and sunscreen. The desert rule is to carry at least one gallon of water per person for an all-day hike. Take a map and compass or a map and GPS unit for off-trail hiking. Be cautious on the slickrock, as the soft sandstone can crumble easily. Also, remember that it’s easier to go up a steep slickrock slope than it is to come back down.
You can reach almost any spot in the park on a day hike, although you’ll also find some good overnight camping possibilities. Areas for longer trips include Courthouse Wash in the southern part of the park and Salt Wash in the eastern part. All backpacking is done off-trail. A backcountry permit must be obtained from a ranger before camping in the backcountry.
Backcountry regulations prohibit fires and pets, and they allow camping only out of sight of any road, at least one mile away, or trail, at least 0.5 miles away, and at least 300 feet from a recognizable archaeological site or nonflowing water source.
• Distance: 1 mile one-way
• Duration: 1 hour round-trip
• Elevation change: 320 feet
• Effort: easy-moderate
• Trailheads: Park Avenue or North Park Avenue trailhead
Get an eyeful of massive stone formations and a feel for the natural history of the park on the easy-moderate Park Avenue trail. The Park Avenue trailhead, just past the crest of the switchbacks that climb up into the park, is the best place to start. The vistas from here are especially dramatic: Courthouse Towers, the Three Gossips, and other fanciful rock formations loom above a natural amphitheater. The trail drops into a narrow wash before traversing the park highway at the North Park Avenue trailhead. Hikers can be dropped off at one trailhead and picked up 30 minutes later at the other.
• Distance: 1 mile round-trip
• Duration: 1 hour
• Elevation change: 140 feet
• Effort: easy
• Trailhead: end of Windows Road
Ten miles into the park, just past the impossible-to-miss Balanced Rock, follow signs and a paved road to the Windows Section. A one-mile round-trip loop along a sandy trail leads to the Windows—a cluster of enormous arches that are impossible to see from the road. Highlights include the North and South Windows and Turret Arch. Unmarked trails lead to vistas and scrambles along the stone faces that make up the ridge. If this easy loop leaves you eager for more exploration in the area, a second trail starts from just past the Windows parking area and goes to Double Arch. This 0.5-mile trail leads to two giant spans that are joined at one end. These easy trails are good for family groups because younger or more ambitious hikers can scramble to their hearts’ content along rocky outcrops.
• Distance: 0.5 miles round-trip
• Duration: 15-30 minutes
• Elevation change: 100 feet
• Effort: easy-moderate
Delicate Arch is at the end of a 1.5-mile trail.
• Trailhead: 1 mile past Wolfe Ranch, at the end of Wolfe Ranch Road
If you don’t have the time or the endurance for the relatively strenuous hike to Delicate Arch, you can view the astonishing arch from a distance at the Delicate Arch Viewpoint. From the viewing area, hikers can scramble up a steep trail to a rim with views across Cache Valley. Even though this is a short hike, it’s a good place to wander around the slickrock for a while. It’s especially nice to linger around sunset, when the arch captures the light and begins to glow. If you’d rather not scramble around on the slickrock, a short path leads about 100 yards from the parking area to a decent view of the arch.
• Distance: 3 miles round-trip
• Duration: 2 hours
• Elevation change: 500 feet
• Effort: moderate-strenuous
• Trailhead: Wolfe Ranch
For those who are able, the hike to the base of Delicate Arch is one of the park’s highlights. Shortly after the trail’s start at Wolfe Ranch, a spur trail leads to some petroglyphs depicting horses and their riders and a few bighorn sheep. Horses didn’t arrive in the area until the mid-1600s, so these petroglyphs are believed to be the work of the Ute people.
The first stretch of the main trail is broad, flat, and not especially scenic, except for a good display of spring wildflowers. After about half an hour of hiking, the trail climbs steeply up onto the slickrock and the views open up across the park to the La Sal Mountains in the distance.
Just before the end of the trail, walk up to the small, decidedly indelicate Frame Arch for a picture-perfect view of the final destination. The classic photo of Delicate Arch is taken late in the afternoon when the sandstone glows with golden hues. Standing at the base of Delicate Arch is a magical moment: The arch rises out of the barren, almost lunar, rock face, yet it seems ephemeral. Views from the arch over the Colorado River valley are amazing.
• Distance: 2 miles round-trip
• Duration: 3 hours
• Elevation change: 250 feet
• Effort: moderate-strenuous
• Trailhead: Fiery Furnace viewpoint
The Fiery Furnace area is open only to hikers with permits ($5 pp) or to those joining a ranger-led hike. During summer, rangers offer two daily hikes (mid-Mar-Oct., $10 adults, $5 ages 7-12 and Interagency Senior Pass holders) into this unique area; tickets are required. These hikes are popular and are often booked weeks in advance, so make reservations online at www.recreation.gov or in person at the visitors’ center up to one week ahead.
Hiking in the Fiery Furnace is not along a trail; hikers navigate a maze of narrow sandstone canyons. The route through the area is sometimes challenging, requiring hands-and-knees scrambling up cracks and ledges. Navigation is difficult: Route-finding can be tricky because what look like obvious paths often lead to dead ends. Drop-offs and ridges make straight-line travel impossible. It’s easy to become disoriented. Even if you’re an experienced hiker, the ranger-led hikes provide the best introduction to the Fiery Furnace.
A little scrambling is required when exploring the Fiery Furnace.
If you’re not able to get in on a ranger-led hike and aren’t strapped for cash, several Moab outfitters, including Canyonlands By Night (1861 N. U.S. 191, Moab, 435/259-5361 or 800/394-9978, www.canyonlandsbynight, $81 adults) offer guided tours in the Fiery Furnace.
• Distance: 1 mile round-trip
• Duration: 45 minutes
• Elevation change: 140 feet
• Effort: easy
• Trailhead: on the right side of the road, 2.4 miles past the Fiery Furnace turnoff
A short sandy trail leads to small Sand Dune Arch (its opening is 8 feet high and 30 feet wide), tucked within fins. A longer trail (1 mile round-trip) crosses a field to Broken Arch, which you can also see from the road. The opening in this arch is 43 feet high and 59 feet wide. Up close, you’ll see that the arch isn’t really broken. These arches can also be reached by a trail across from campsite 40 at Devils Garden Campground. Another beautiful arch, Tapestry Arch, requires a short detour off the trail between the campground and Broken Arch.
Look for low-growing Canyonlands biscuit root, found only in areas of Entrada sandstone, colonizing the sand dunes. Hikers can protect the habitat of the biscuit root and other fragile plants by keeping to washes or rock surfaces.
• Distance: 7.2 miles round-trip
• Duration: 4 hours
• Elevation change: 350 feet
Broken Arch is not really broken — yet.
• Effort: strenuous
• Trailhead: Devils Garden
From the end of the paved park road, a full tour of Devils Garden leads to eight named arches and a vacation’s worth of scenic wonders. This is one of the park’s most popular areas, with several shorter versions of the full loop hike that make the area accessible to nearly every hiker. Don’t be shocked to find quite a crowd at the trailhead—it will most likely dissipate after the first two or three arches.
The first two arches are an easy walk from the trailhead and are accessed via a short side trail to the right. Tunnel Arch has a relatively symmetrical opening 22 feet high and 27 feet wide. The nearby Pine Tree Arch is named for a piñon pine that once grew inside; the arch has an opening 48 feet high and 46 feet wide.
Continue on the main trail to Landscape Arch. The trail narrows past Landscape Arch and continues to the remains of Wall Arch, which collapsed in August 2008. A short side trail branches off to the left beyond the stubs of Wall Arch to Partition Arch and Navajo Arch. Partition was so named because a piece of rock divides the main opening from a smaller hole. Navajo Arch is a rock-shelter type; prehistoric Native Americans may have camped here.
The main trail climbs up slickrock, offering great views of the La Sal mountains and Fin Canyon. At the Fin Canyon viewpoint, the trail curves left (watch for rock cairns) and continues northwest, ending at Double O Arch (4 miles round-trip from the trailhead). Double O has a large oval-shaped opening (45 feet high and 71 feet wide) and a smaller hole underneath. Dark Angel is a distinctive rock pinnacle 0.25 miles northwest; cairns mark the way. Another primitive trail loops back to Landscape Arch via Fin Canyon. This route goes through a different part of Devils Garden but adds about one mile to your trip (3 miles back to the trailhead instead of two). Pay careful attention to the trail markers to avoid getting lost.
• Distance: 2 miles round-trip
• Duration: 1 hour
• Elevation change: 60 feet
• Trailhead: Devils Garden trailhead
Landscape Arch, with an incredible 306-foot span—six feet longer than a football field—is one of the longest unsupported rock spans in the world. It’s also one of the park’s more precarious arches to observe up close. The thin arch looks ready to collapse at any moment. Indeed, a spectacular rockfall from the arch on September 1, 1991, accelerated its disintegration, which is the eventual fate of every arch. Now the area directly underneath the arch is fenced off; when you look at the photos of the 1991 rockfall, you’ll be happy to stand back a ways.
On the way to Landscape Arch, be sure to take the short side trails to Tunnel and Pine Tree Arches.
• Distance: 3.4 miles round-trip
• Duration: 2.5 hours
• Elevation change: 450 feet
• Effort: moderate-strenuous
• Trailhead: Klondike Bluffs parking area
• Directions: From the main park road, take Salt Valley Road (a dirt road, but usually fine for passenger cars) west 7.7 miles to the Klondike Bluffs turnoff.
Most park visitors don’t venture into this area of sandstone fins and big dunes. It’s a bit like Devils Garden, but without the crowds.
After a short but steep climb, the trail levels out and opens up to views of Arches’ distinctive sandstone fins and, in the distance, the La Sal and Abajo Mountains. The trail drops down to cross a couple of washes, then climbs onto the fin-studded slickrock Klondike Bluffs. Tower Arch is actually both an arch and a tower, and there’s no mistaking the tower for just another big sandstone rock.
Because of the dirt-road access to this hike, it’s best to skip it if there’s been recent rain or if rain is threatening.
Cyclists are required to keep to established roads in the park; there is no single-track or trail riding allowed. You’ll also have to contend with heavy traffic on the narrow paved roads and dusty washboard surfaces on the dirt roads. Beware of deep sand on the 4WD roads, traffic on the main park road, and summertime heat wherever you ride.
One good, not-too-hard ride is along the Willow Springs Road. Allow 2-3 hours for an out-and-back, starting from the Balanced Rock parking area and heading west.
Perhaps the best bet for relatively fit mountain bikers is the 24-mile ride to Tower Arch and back. From the Devils Garden parking area, ride out the Salt Valley Road, which can be rough. After about 7.5 miles, turn left onto a jeep road that leads to the “back door” to Tower Arch.
Nearby, Bureau of Land Management and Canyonlands National Park areas offer world-class mountain biking.
Rock climbers don’t need a permit in Arches, although you should first discuss your plans with a ranger. All features named on U.S. Geological Survey maps are closed to climbing: That means any of the arches and many of the most distinctive towers are off limits. Slacklining is also prohibited in the park. There are still plenty of long-standing routes for advanced climbers to enjoy, although the rock in Arches is sandier and softer than in other areas around Moab.
Several additional climbing restrictions are in place. No new permanent climbing hardware may be installed in any fixed location. If an existing bolt or other hardware item is unsafe, it may be replaced. This effectively limits all technical climbing to existing routes or new routes not requiring placement of fixed anchors. Other restrictions are detailed on the park’s website.
The most commonly climbed areas are along the sheer stone faces of Park Avenue. Another popular destination is Owl Rock, the owl-shaped small tower located in the Windows Section of the park. For more information on climbing in Arches, consult the bible of Moab-area climbing, Desert Rock by Eric Bjørnstad, or ask for advice at Pagan Mountaineering (59 S. Main St., Moab, 435/259-1117, www.climbmoab.com). a climbing and outdoor-gear store that also offers a climbing guide service.
Be sure to reserve ahead if you want to camp at Arches.
Devils Garden Campground (elevation 5,355 feet, with water, year-round, $20) is near the end of the 18-mile scenic drive. It’s an excellent place to camp, with some sites tucked under rock formations and others offering great views, but it’s extremely popular. The well-organized traveler must plan accordingly and reserve a site in advance for March-October. Reservations (www.recreation.gov, $9 booking fee plus $20 camping fee) must be made no less than four days and no more than 240 days in advance. All campsites can be reserved, so during the busy spring, summer, and fall seasons, campers without reservations are pretty much out of luck. In winter, sites 1-24 are available as first-come, first-served. A camp host is on-site and firewood is available ($5), but there are no other services or amenities.
If you aren’t able to score a coveted Arches campsite, all is not lost. There are many Bureau of Land Management (BLM) campsites within an easy drive of the park. Try the primitive BLM campgrounds on Highway 313, just west of U.S. 191 and on the way to Canyonlands National Park’s Island in the Sky District. Another cluster of BLM campgrounds is along the Colorado River on Highway 128, which runs northeast from U.S. 191 at the north end of Moab.
