STREET NUMBERING AND GRID ADDRESSES
ACCESS FOR TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES
If you’re driving from other points in North America, Utah is easy to reach. The parks are east of I-15, which runs parallel to the Rocky Mountains from Montana to Southern California. And they’re south of I-70, which links Denver to I-15.
International travelers flying into the region have numerous options. Salt Lake City is convenient as a terminus for travelers who want to make a road-trip loop tour through all of Utah’s parks. For other travelers, Utah’s national parks may be best seen as part of a longer U.S. road trip. Many European travelers fly into Denver, rent vehicles or RVs, cross the Rocky Mountains, and explore the parks of southern Utah and perhaps the Grand Canyon on the way to Las Vegas, whence they return.
Public transportation, like regularly scheduled flights, is almost nonexistent in southern Utah and the parks; you’ll need your own vehicle to explore the area.
Many tours of Utah’s national parks begin in Salt Lake City. Its busy airport and plethora of hotels make it an easy place to begin and end a trip.
Salt Lake City is a hub for Delta Airlines, and all other major airlines have regular flights into Salt Lake City International Airport (SLC, 776 N. Terminal Dr., 801/575-2400, www.slcairport.com). The airport is an easy seven miles west of downtown; reach it via I-80 or North Temple Boulevard.
SkyWest Airlines (800/453-9417, www.skywest.com), Delta’s and United’s commuter partner, flies to Cedar City and St. George in Utah and to towns in adjacent states. Great Lakes Airlines (800/554-5111, www.flygreatlakes.com) provides daily scheduled air service between Canyonlands Field (CNY), just north of Moab, and Denver.
The Salt Lake City airport has three terminals; in each you’ll find a ground transportation information desk, restaurants, motel and hotel courtesy phones, and car rentals (all the major companies are either on-site or a short shuttle ride away). Terminal 2 houses Zion’s First National Bank for currency exchange. Terminal 3 is dedicated to international arrivals and departures.
The only passenger train through Salt Lake City is Amtrak’s California Zephyr, which heads west to Reno and Oakland and east to Denver and Chicago four times a week. Amtrak (station 340 S. 600 W., 800/872-7245, www.amtrak.com) prices tickets as airlines do, with discounts for advance booking, special seasonal fares, and other discounts available. Amtrak office hours are irregular and timed to meet the trains, so call first.
Salt Lake City is at a crossroads of several major highways and has good bus service from Greyhound (160 W. South Temple, 801/355-9579 or 800/231-2222, www.greyhound.com). Generally speaking, buses run north and south along I-15 and east and west along I-80; you won’t be able to take the bus to any of Utah’s national parks.
From Salt Lake City, it’s a long 238-mile drive to Moab, the center for exploring Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. The fastest route takes you south from Salt Lake City on I-15, cutting east at Spanish Fork on U.S. 6/89 to Price, south to Green River and I-70, and then to Moab on U.S. 191. Dramatic scenery highlights the entire length of this four-hour drive. To get to Zion and Bryce, simply take I-15 south from Salt Lake City; driving time is about four hours.
You’ll find all of the major car rental companies at the Salt Lake City airport (www.slcairport.com).
Access RV Rental (2240 S. State St., Salt Lake City, 801/936-1200 or 800/327-6910, http://rentmotorhome.com) is a local company with relatively good rates on RV rentals. Cruise America (4125 S. State St., Salt Lake City, 801/288-0930, www.cruiseamerica.com) is a larger company with RV rentals available. El Monte RV (250 U.S. 89, North Salt Lake City, 888/337-2214, www.elmonterv.com) also provides rentals. Expect to pay $1,000-1,800 per week to rent an RV, depending on the season and the size of the vehicle; small travel trailers are less expensive but frequently unavailable.
Rent a motorcycle from Street Eagle/BMW Motorcycles of Utah (339 W. 9000 S., Sandy, 801/658-7368, www.streeteagle.com, about $150 per day).
Salt Lake City has many hotel rooms across all price categories. We’ve included a few of our favorites here. Although most aren’t airport hotels, the airport is pretty easy to get to from all of them.
If you’re driving into town and just want to find a hotel room fast, head south and west of downtown, where chain hotels proliferate. The area around 600 South and 200 West is especially fertile ground for mid-priced hotels.
The Avenues Hostel (107 F St., 801/363-3855, www.saltlakehostel.com, $18 dorm, $40 d, only half have private baths), one mile east of Temple Square, offers lodging with the use of a kitchen, a TV room, and laundry. Information-packed bulletin boards list city sights and goings-on, and you’ll meet travelers from all over the world. Reservations (with first night’s deposit) are advised in the busy summer travel and winter ski seasons. From downtown, head east on South Temple Street to F Street, then turn north and go two blocks.
The Howard Johnson Express Inn (121 N. 300 W., 801/521-3450 or 800/541-7639, www.hojo.com, from $64) is an older but well-maintained motor-court motel near Temple Square with a pool, complimentary continental breakfast, and free HBO.
Just east of Temple Square is the pleasant, well-maintained Carlton Hotel (140 E. South Temple, 801/355-3418 or 800/633-3500, www.carltonhotel-slc.com, from $74). The Carlton is an older hotel in a great location and offers guest laundry, an exercise room, a sauna, a hot tub, and in-room VCRs with free movies; there are also five suites.
On the campus of the University of Utah, the University Guest House and Conference Center (110 S. Ft. Douglas Blvd., 801/587-1000 or 888/416-4075, www.universityguesthouse.com, from $95) is a good choice if you want a comfortable room, free parking, and nice walks nearby (check out the Red Butte Garden). Good restaurants are nearby, and downtown is a short drive or light-rail trip away.
Comfortable guest rooms, an outdoor pool, and a better-than-average included continental breakfast make the Comfort Inn Airport (200 N. Admiral Byrd Rd., 801/537-7444 or 800/535-8742, www.comfortinn.com, $129 and up) an appealing place to spend a night.
The Radisson Hotel Salt Lake City Airport (2177 W. North Temple, 801/364-5800 or 800/967-9033, www.radisson.com, $112 and up) is an attractive lodge-like building with nicely furnished guest rooms. Guests receive a complimentary continental breakfast and newspaper, and in the evenings there’s a manager’s reception with free beverages. Facilities include a pool, a spa, and a fitness room. Suites come with a loft bedroom area. There’s quite a range in room rates, and package rates and promotions can bring the rates down dramatically. At the Airport Hilton (5151 Wiley Post Way, 801/539-1515 or 800/999-3736, www1.hilton.com, from $135), guest rooms are spacious and nicely furnished, and facilities include two pools, a putting green, a sports court, and an exercise room and whirlpool. The hotel even has its own lake.
If you really want to do Salt Lake City in style, two downtown hotels are good places to splurge. Hotel Monaco (15 W. 200 S., 801/595-0000 or 877/294-9710, www.monaco-saltlakecity.com, from $219) occupies a grandly renovated historic office building in a convenient spot in the middle of downtown; on the main floor is Bambara, one of the most sophisticated restaurants in Utah. Guest rooms are sumptuously furnished with real élan: This is no anonymous upscale hotel in beige and mauve. Expect wild colors and contrasting fabrics, lots of flowers, and excellent service. Facilities include an on-site fitness center, meeting rooms, and concierge and valet services. Pets are welcome, and if you forgot your own pet, the hotel will deliver a companion goldfish to your room. Room rates vary greatly; check the website to discover unexpected bargains.
The gigantic Grand America Hotel and Suites (75 E. 600 S., 800/533-3525, www.grandamerica.com, $309 and up), is Salt Lake City’s take on the Vegas fantasy hotel. A block square (that’s 10 acres in this land of long blocks), its 24 stories contain 775 guest rooms, more than half of them suites. Guest rooms have luxury-level amenities; expect all the perks and niceties that modern hotels can offer.
Of the several commercial campgrounds around the periphery of Salt Lake City, Camp VIP/Salt Lake City KOA (1350 W. North Temple, 801/328-0224, www.koa.com) is the most convenient, located between downtown and the airport. It offers tent sites (from $27) and RV sites (from $47) year-round with showers, a swimming pool, a game room, a playground, a store, and laundry. From I-15 northbound, take exit 308 onto I-80; go west 1.3 miles on I-80, exit north on Redwood Road (Hwy. 68) and go 0.5 miles, then turn right and continue another 0.5 miles on North Temple. From I-15 southbound, take exit 310 and go south 1.5 miles on 900 West, then turn right and drive less than one mile on North Temple. From I-80 take either the North Temple exit or Redwood Road (Hwy. 68), and go 0.5 miles, then turn right and continue another 0.5 miles on North Temple.
There are two good Forest Service campgrounds in Big Cottonwood Canyon, about 15 miles southeast of downtown Salt Lake City, and another two up Little Cottonwood Canyon, about 19 miles southeast of town. All have drinking water, and all prohibit pets because of local watershed regulations; sites range $19-22, and some can be reserved (877/444-6777, www.recreation.gov, $10 reservation fee).
Spruces Campground (elevation 7,400 feet, early June-mid-Oct.) is 9.1 miles up Big Cottonwood Canyon. Redman Campground (elevation 8,300 feet, no reservations, mid-June-early Oct.) is between Solitude and Brighton, 14 miles up Big Cottonwood Canyon.
Tanners Flat Campground (elevation 7,200 feet, no reservations, mid-May-mid-Oct.) is 4.3 miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon. Albion Basin Campground (elevation 9,500 feet, no reservations, early July-late Sept.) is high in the mountains a few miles past Alta Ski Area; go 11 miles up the canyon, the last 2.5 miles on gravel.
If you’re going to be camping on your trip through southeastern Utah’s national parks, you may want to pick up some provisions in Salt Lake City before hitting the road south. Just east of I-15, off I-80 in the Sugar House district, Whole Foods Market (1131 E. Wilmington Ave., 801/359-7913) has a good deli, lots of organic produce, bulk foods, and good bread (likely the last you’ll see for a while). It’s in a complex that also contains some good restaurants, a camping supply store, and the brightest, shiniest tattoo parlor you’ll ever lay eyes on.
Downtown, stop at Tony Caputo Market & Deli (308 W. Broadway, 801/531-8669, www.caputosdeli.com, 9am-7pm Mon., 9am-9pm Tues.-Sat., 10am-5pm Sun.), an old-style Italian deli brimming with delicious sausages, cheeses, and olives. Don’t forget to get a sandwich to go.
For Salt Lake City’s best restaurants, you have to head downtown. Lamb’s (169 S. Main St., 801/364-7166, www.lambsgrill.com, 7am-9pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-9pm Sat., $13-15) claims to be Utah’s oldest restaurant. You can still enjoy the classic 1930s diner atmosphere as well as the tasty food. Lamb’s is an especially good place for breakfast.
Red Iguana (736 W. North Temple, 801/322-1489, www.rediguana.com, 11am-10pm Mon.-Thurs., 11am-11pm Fri., 10am-11pm Sat., 10am-9pm Sun., $8-22), on the way in from the airport, is one of the city’s favorite Mexican restaurants and offers excellent south-of-the-border cooking with a specialty in Mayan and regional foods. Best of all, the flavors are crisp, fresh, and earthy. The Red Iguana is very popular, so arrive early—especially at lunch—to avoid the lines.
For fine dining, the Metropolitan (173 W. Broadway, 801/362-3472, www.themetropolitan.com, 11:30am-2pm and 6pm-9pm Mon.-Thurs., 11:30am-2pm and 6pm-9:30pm Fri., 6pm-9:30pm Sat., 6pm-9pm Sun., $25-35) is easily Salt Lake City’s most ambitious restaurant, taking “fusion cuisine” to new lengths. In this high-design dining room (reserve tables near the fireplace and water sculpture), the foods of the world meet and mingle on your plate in preparations that are sometimes unexpected but always stylish.
In the Hotel Monaco, Bambara (202 S. Main St., 801/363-5454, www.bambara-slc.com, 7am-10am, 11am-2pm, and 5:30pm-10pm Mon.-Thurs., 7am-10am, 11am-2pm, and 5:30am-10:30pm Fri., 8am-11am and 5:30pm-10:30pm Sat., 8am-noon and 5:30pm-9pm Sun., $20-25) has a menu that emphasizes the freshest and most flavorful local meats and produce, with preparations in a wide-awake New American style that is equal parts tradition and innovation.
Utah’s oldest brewpub is Squatters Pub Brewery (147 W. Broadway, 801/363-2739, www.squatters.com, 11am-midnight Mon.-Thurs., 11am-1am Fri., 10:30am-1am Sat., 10:30am-midnight Sun., $8-18). In addition to fine beers and ales, the pub serves sandwiches, burgers, and other light entrées in a handsome old warehouse. In summer there’s seating on the back deck. Another popular brewpub is the Red Rock Brewing Company (254 S. 200 W., 801/521-7446, www.redrockbrewing.com, 11am-midnight Sun.-Thurs., 11am-1am Fri.-Sat., $10-20), offering pasta, salads, and sandwiches, including an excellent variation on the hamburger, baked in a wood-fired oven inside a bread pocket. There’s often a wait to get in the door, but the food and brews are worth it.
Just because you’re going to Utah, don’t assume it’s best to fly into Salt Lake City. If you’re traveling to Zion, Bryce, or Grand Staircase-Escalante, consider flying into Las Vegas rather than Salt Lake City. Not only is it closer to these parks, but car rentals are usually about $100 a week cheaper. Even if you have absolutely no interest in gambling, many casino hotels have very good midweek rates.
McCarran International Airport (LAS, 5757 Wayne Newton Blvd., 702/261-5743, www.mccarran.com) is just a few minutes south of the Strip (a.k.a. Las Vegas Blvd. S.), the six-mile stretch of casinos and hotels.
Las Vegas is well served by major domestic airlines, and also by smaller or “no-frills” carriers such as Frontier Airlines (800/432-1359, www.frontierairlines.com), Spirit Airlines (800/772-7117, www.spiritair.com) and Southwest Airlines (800/435-9792, www.southwest.com), whose bargain prices keep the other airlines competitive.
The airport has two terminals—Terminal 1 has most of the domestic traffic, while the massive new high-tech Terminal 3 serves international and charter flights (Terminal 2 was closed when 3 opened in 2012). Exchange foreign currency in Terminal 3; find full-service banking and check-in for some of the larger casino hotels in Terminal 1. Slot machines, of course, are everywhere.
Greyhound (220 S. Main St., 702/383-9792, www.greyhound.com) serves communities along the I-15 corridor, including St. George.
From Las Vegas, it’s just 120 miles northeast on I-15 to St. George, with Zion just 43 miles farther.
It’s relatively inexpensive to rent a car in Las Vegas; an economy car will run about $120 per week, before taxes. At the airport, find Avis (702/261-5591 or 800/331-1212), Budget (800/922-2899), Dollar (702/739-8403 or 800/800-4000), Hertz (702/736-4900 or 800/654-3131), National (702/261-5391 or 800/227-7368), Payless (702/736-6147 or 800/729-5377), Alamo (800/462-5266), and Thrifty (702/896-7600 or 800/367-2277).
Rent an RV from Cruise America (551 N. Gibson Rd., Henderson, 888/980-8282, www.cruiseamerica.com). El Monte RV (13001 Las Vegas Blvd., 702/269-8000 or 888/337-2214, www.elmonterv.com) is another good bet. Rates typically start at about $1,000 a week.
For its sheer number of hotel rooms, Las Vegas can’t be beat. Even if you have no desire to visit Vegas, it may make sense to spend the first or final night of your trip here. During the week, it’s relatively easy to find a good rate at a casino hotel. However, beware of weekends if you’re watching your pennies: on Saturday night rooms often cost triple what they cost during the week. Reservation services, such as Las Vegas Hotels Reservation Service (877/477-8005, www.lasvegasnevadahotels.org) or the Las Vegas Convention and Visitor Authority (702/892-0711, www.visitlasvegas.com), may be able to help you find a good deal on a room. Most of the major casino hotels (Caesar’s Palace, New York New York, the Venetian, and others) have guest rooms for over $100, but specials in the $60-80 range are easy to find. You’ll find them listed on reservation services, which makes it easy to locate a room that suits your taste and budget.
About one mile from the airport, and not too far off the south end of the Strip, find the Ambassador Strip Travelodge (5075 Koval Lane, 702/736-3600 or 888/844-3131, $49 weekdays, $99 weekends). This motel, with an outdoor pool and continental breakfast included, is a good alternative to a casino hotel. Just a little more expensive and also off the Strip near the airport is the Best Western McCarran Inn (4970 Paradise Rd., 702/798-5530 or 800/626-7575, www.bestwestern.com, $70-80 weekdays, $90-110 weekends).
As celebrity chefs from around the country have established outposts in various upscale casinos, Las Vegas has become a destination for fine dining. Nearly every casino hotel has multiple restaurants, sometimes multiple fine dining restaurants. For instance, at the MGM Grand (3799 Las Vegas Blvd. S., 702/891-7374, www.mgmgrand.com) there’s both Craftsteak for the high-end steak house experience, courtesy of Tom Colicchio, and Joel Robuchon, the eponymous restaurant of the renowned French chef. And talk about an embarrassment of riches—at the Venetian Hotel (3355 Las Vegas Blvd. S., 702/414-3737, www.venetian.com), Emeril Lagasse owns the Delmonico, a steak house that goes well above and beyond your basic rib eye; Thomas Keller has Bouchon, promising high-end Napa Valley dining; Mario Batali has an Italian outpost called B&B Ristorante; and Wolfgang Puck operates Postria Bar and Grill.
Expect main courses at all of these restaurants to be $30-40 and up. Dine less expensively on a selection of appetizers. Cheaper dining can be found at casino buffets, or try Pink Taco (Hard Rock Hotel, 4455 Paradise Rd., 702/693-5525, www.hardrockhotel.com, $15-25) for Mexican food in a hip, freewheeling atmosphere.
Finally, if you want a taste of old Vegas, head up to the 24th floor of Binion’s Horseshoe to Binion’s Ranch Steakhouse (128 E. Fremont St., 702/382-1600, www.binions.com, $31-50), a Las Vegas institution with huge steaks and reasonable prices.
Although it may not seem intuitive to start your tour of Utah’s national parks in Denver, that’s exactly what works best for many folks, especially those who fly from European capital cities to Denver International Airport. From there, it’s easy to rent a car or RV and begin a tour that typically includes Rocky Mountain National Park, Utah’s five national parks, and the Grand Canyon before terminating at Las Vegas.
Locals joke that Denver International Airport (DEN, 8500 Peña Blvd., 303/342-2000, www.flydenver.com), often referred to as DIA, is in Kansas; it’s actually 23 miles northeast of downtown Denver on Highway 470, north of I-70. Major airlines using DIA include American, British Airways, Continental, Delta, and United.
DIA’s Jeppesen Terminal has a giant atrium and three concourses connected by a light-rail train. Car-rental counters are in the central terminal atrium between security screening areas.
To drive from Denver to the parks, follow I-70 west, up over the Continental Divide along the Rocky Mountains, and down to the Colorado River. Cross into Utah and take I-70 exit 212 at Cisco. From Denver to Cisco is 297 miles, all on the freeway. From Cisco, follow Highway 128 for 37 highly scenic miles through red-rock canyons to Moab. Allow 5.5 hours of driving time between Moab and Denver.
All major car rental agencies have facilities near DIA.
B&B RV (6960 Smith Rd., Denver, 303/322-6013, www.bb-rv.com) is a local company that rents RVs. Moturis Inc./Camping World (4100 Youngfield St., Denver, 800/222-6795, www.moturis.com) is west of downtown Denver. Regional corporations with offices in Denver include Cruise America (8950 N. Federal Blvd., Denver, 303/650-2865, www.cruiseamerica.com) and El Monte RV (5989 Main St., Louviers, 303/426-7998 or 888/337-2214, www.elmonterv.com).
Chain hotels have set up shop in the area surrounding DIA. Almost all offer shuttles to and from the airport.
For budget travelers, the 11th Avenue Hotel and Hostel (1112 N. Broadway, 303/861-7777, http://innkeeperrockies.com, $21 dorm, $29 pp private rooms) is a 1903 hotel on the edge of downtown that’s now a blend of hotel and hostel. Facilities include laundry, Internet access, and cable TV. There’s no kitchen, but guests have access to a barbecue grill, a microwave, and a toaster oven.
The closest lodgings to DIA are about six miles from the airport. The DIA Microtel Inn (18600 E. 63rd Ave., 303/371-8300 or 800/771-7171, www.microtelinn.com, from $79) offers free breakfast. The Quality Inn (6890 Tower Rd., 303/371-5300 or 877/424-6423, www.qualityinn.com, from $89) is easy to find north of I-70 exit 286. About 12 miles south of the airport, near the intersection of I-70 and Peña Boulevard, is a cluster of chain motels, including Comfort Inn (16921 E. 32nd Ave., 303/367-5000, www.comfortinn.com, from $89).
The Hilton Garden Inn Denver Airport (16475 E. 40th Circle, 303/371-9393, www1.hilton.com, from $149) is near the intersection of I-70 and Peña Boulevard, south of the airport. Other comfortable DIA-area hotels include Comfort Suites (6210 Tower Rd., 303/371-9300, www.comfortsuites.com, from $109), where all guest rooms are suites, and the Fairfield Inn Denver Airport (6851 Tower Rd., 303/576-9640, www.marriott.com, $139). If you’re looking for the classic swanky downtown-Denver hotel, try the Brown Palace (321 17th St., 303/297-3111 or 800/321-2599, www.brownpalace.com, from $233), a historic and ornate hotel from Denver’s 1890s heyday.
If you’re just passing through DIA on your way to Utah, you’ll find that there’s not a lot of fine dining near the airport; inside the terminals there is a Wolfgang Puck Express (Concourse B, 303/342-7611), which is worth knowing about. You’ll have to travel into Denver if you want to explore the dining scene.
There’s a large Hispanic population, so it’s no surprise that Denver has lots of Latin American restaurants, and these are often good and reliable places for inexpensive meals. However, some of Denver’s most exciting restaurants are Nuevo Latin American restaurants—where familiar tacos, tortillas, and enchiladas are updated into zippy fine dining. One of the best is Lola (1575 Boulder St., 720/570-8686, www.loladenver.com, 4pm-10pm Mon.-Fri., 10am-10pm Sat.-Sun., entrées under $25), a hip and happening restaurant with over 150 tequilas to choose from and main courses like grilled pork with habañero sauce. Guacamole is prepared table-side, like Caesar salad in traditional American steak houses. More upscale is Tamayo (1400 Larimer St., 720/946-1433, www.richardsandoval.com, 11:30am-2pm and 5pm-10pm Mon.-Thurs., 11:30am-2pm and 5pm-11pm Fri., 5pm-11pm Sat., 5pm-10pm Sun., entrées $20-28), a hybrid of French refinement and zesty Mexican flavors. Views from this rooftop dining room overlook Larimer Square and the Rockies, making it a top spot for margaritas and appetizers, particularly the excellent shrimp tacos.
At Deluxe (30 S. Broadway, 303/722-1550, http://deluxedenver.com, 5pm-10pm Tues.-Sat., $10-28), the emphasis is on seasonal ingredients and perfect execution of international comfort foods such as spring vegetable risotto and lamb ragù with fresh pasta ribbons, along with delicious cocktails. The Barolo Grill (3030 E. 6th Ave., 303/393-1040, www.barologrilldenver.com, 5:30pm-10:30pm Tues.-Sat., $15-30) is a comfortable northern Italian restaurant with good salads and pasta as well as grilled fish, game, and chicken main courses. The wine list is outstanding. Denver is known for its steak houses, and one of the best is the locally owned Capital Grille (1450 Larimer St., 303/539-2500, www.thecapitalgrille.com, 11:30am-2:30pm and 5pm-10pm Mon.-Thurs., 11:30am-2:30pm and 5pm-11pm Fri., 5pm-11pm Sat., 4pm-9pm Sun., $19-40), with swank surroundings, an attentive staff, and excellent steaks, prime rib, and chops. For a lighter meal, go to Falling Rock Tap House (1919 Blake St., 303/293-8338, www.fallingrocktaphouse.com, 11am-2am daily, $8-20), one of Denver’s top regional beer pubs, with over 75 brews on tap and tasty pub grub.
For most travelers, getting around southern Utah will require using some form of automobile. Public transport is nonexistent in and between the parks, and distances are great—although the parks cover a relatively compact area, the geography of the land is so contorted that there are few roads that connect the dots. For instance, from Moab to the Arizona border, a distance of nearly 130 miles, only one bridge crosses the Colorado River once it drops into its canyon. Cars are easily rented in gateway cities, and in towns like Moab there is a plethora of jeep and Humvee rentals as well.
Bicycle touring is certainly an excellent option, but cyclists need to be in good shape and be prepared for intense heat during summer trips. For detailed information on cycling Utah, read the classic Bicycle Touring in Utah by Dennis Coello, now out of print but available from libraries and used from online sources.
Many towns founded by Mormon settlers share a street-numbering scheme that can be confusing to first-time visitors but quickly becomes intuitive. A city’s address grid will generally have its temple at the center, with blocks numbered by hundreds out in every direction. For instance, 100 West is one block west of the center of town, then comes 200 West, and so on. In conversation, you may hear the shorthand “4th South,” “3rd West,” and so on to indicate 400 South or 300 West.
While this street-numbering system is a picture of precision, it’s also confusing at first. All addresses have four parts: When you see the address 436 North 100 West, for instance, the system tells you that the address will be found four blocks north of the center of town, on 100 West. One rule of thumb is to remember that the last two segments of an address (300 South, 500 East, 2300 West) are the street’s actual name—the equivalent of a single street signifier such as Oak Street or Front Street.
Traveling the Southwest’s national parks in an RV is a time-honored tradition, and travelers will have no problem finding RV rentals in major cities like Denver, Salt Lake City, and Las Vegas, which serve as gateways to the parks of southern Utah. The parks have good campgrounds, and towns like Moab and Springdale have some very spiff campground options with extras like swimming pools and wireless Internet. Note that some parks attempt to limit vehicle access—to visit Bryce and Zion, you have need to leave the RV behind and tour the narrow park roads by free shuttle bus.
During the summer, patience is the key to driving in Utah’s national parks. Roads are often crowded with slow-moving RVs, and traffic jams are not uncommon. At Zion, shuttle buses have replaced private vehicles along the scenic Zion Canyon Road, and a voluntary shuttle runs through the main Bryce Canyon amphitheater.
If you’re traveling on back roads, especially in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, make sure you have plenty of gas, even if it means paying top dollar at a small-town gas pump.
Summer heat in the desert puts an extra strain on both cars and drivers. It’s worth double-checking your vehicle’s cooling system, engine oil, transmission fluid, fan belts, and tires to make sure they are in top condition. Carry several gallons of water in case of a breakdown or radiator trouble. Never leave children or pets in a parked car during warm weather; temperatures inside can cause fatal heatstroke in minutes.
At times the desert has too much water, when late-summer storms frequently flood low spots in the road. Wait for the water level to subside before crossing. Dust storms can completely block visibility but tend to be short-lived. During such storms, pull completely off the road, stop, and turn off your lights so as not to confuse other drivers. Radio stations carry frequent weather updates when weather hazards exist.
If stranded, stay with your vehicle unless you’re positive of where to go for help, then leave a note explaining your route and departure time. Airplanes can easily spot a stranded car (tie a piece of cloth to your antenna), but a person walking is more difficult to see. It’s best to carry emergency supplies: blankets or sleeping bags, a first-aid kit, tools, jumper cables, a shovel, traction mats or chains, a flashlight, rain gear, water, food, and a can opener.
Obey road signs and check in locally to make sure roads are open and passable.
The Utah Department of Transportation prints and distributes a free, regularly updated map of Utah. Ask for it when you call for information or when you stop at a visitor information office. Benchmark Maps’ Utah Road and Recreation Atlas is loaded with beautiful maps, recreation information, and global positioning system (GPS) grids. If you’re planning on extensive backcountry exploration, be sure to ask locally about conditions.
Here are some tips for safely traversing the backcountry in a vehicle (preferably one with four-wheel drive):
• Drive slowly enough to choose a safe path and avoid obstacles such as rocks or giant potholes, but keep up enough speed to propel yourself through sand or mud.
• Keep an eye on the route ahead of you. If there are obstacles, stop, get out of your vehicle, and survey the situation.
• Reduce the tire pressure if you’re driving across sand.
• Drive directly up or down the fall line of a slope. Cutting across diagonally may seem less frightening, but it puts you in a position to slide or roll over.
If you really want to learn to drive your 4WD rig, consider signing up for a class.
Both Zion and Bryce National Parks offer shuttle bus service during peak summer season along their primary entrance roads to reduce traffic and vehicular impact on the parks. In Zion, shuttles pick up visitors at various points around Springdale and take them to the park gate, where another shuttle runs park visitors up Zion Canyon Road, stopping at trailheads, scenic overlooks, and Zion Lodge. Essentially, private cars are no longer allowed on Zion Canyon Road during peak season. (Registered overnight guests at Zion Lodge can drive their own vehicles to the hotel.)
In Bryce, the shuttle bus picks up visitors at the park gate and drives the length of the main parkway, making stops at all the major trailheads and vista points in addition to campgrounds, Ruby’s Inn, and the Bryce Canyon Lodge. Using the shuttle bus is not required in Bryce, although it is highly recommended.
In both parks, the shuttle ticket cost is covered by park entrance fees.
Bus tours of the southern Utah national parks, often in conjunction with Grand Canyon National Park, are available from several regional tour companies. Southern Utah Scenic Tours (435/656-1504 or 888/404-8687, www.utahscenictours.com) offers multiday scenic and thematic tours of the Southwest, including the Utah national parks.
Road Scholar (800/454-5768, www.roadscholar.org) operates programs out of St. George, including a bus tour of southern Utah and northern Arizona’s national parks and monuments. These trips are geared toward older adults (this is the organization formerly known as Elderhostel) and involve a bit of easy hiking.
For a truly unusual bus tour, consider the Adventure Bus (375 S. Main St., Moab, 909/633-7225 or 888/737-5263, www.adventurebus.com), a bus that’s had most of its seats removed to make lounge and sleeping areas. Guests live on the bus (some meals are provided) as it makes tours of Utah and other Southwest hot spots.
A high-clearance vehicle is a good idea on Utah back roads.
Utah’s national parks are home to epic landscapes—red-rock canyons, towering arches, and needles of sandstone that are best explored by foot, by bike, or on the water. Hikers will find a variety of trails, ranging from paved all-abilities paths to remote backcountry tracks. Rafts and jet boats out of Moab provide another means to explore rugged canyons otherwise inaccessible to all but the hardiest trekkers. The sheer rock cliff faces and promontories in the parks provide abundant challenges to experienced rock climbers; be certain to check park regulations before climbing, however, as restrictions may apply.
Utah’s national parks offer lots of opportunities for hikers and backcountry enthusiasts interested in exploring the scenery on foot. Each of the parks has a variety of well-maintained hiking trails, ranging from easy strolls to multiday backcountry treks. In fact, much of the Needles and Maze districts in Canyonlands and the most compelling parts of Capitol Reef and Zion are accessible only by foot; visits to remote Anasazi ruins and petroglyphs are among the rewards for the long-distance hiker.
One increasingly popular activity is canyoneering—exploring mazelike slot canyons. Hundreds of feet deep but sometimes only wide enough for a hiker to squeeze through, these canyons are located across southern Utah, with some great ones near Escalante and in the Paria River area. You’ll need to be fit to explore these regions—and watch the weather carefully for flash floods.
All of Utah’s national parks have campgrounds, with each park keeping at least one campground open year-round. Most campgrounds are first-come, first-served; reservations (www.recreation.gov, $9 reservation fee) are accepted seasonally at Zion’s Watchman Campground, Bryce’s Sunset Campground, and Arches’ Devils Garden Campground. During the summer and on holiday weekends during the spring and fall, it’s best to arrive at the park early in the day and select a campsite immediately. Don’t expect to find hookups or showers at National Park Service campgrounds. For these comforts, look just outside the park entrance, where you’ll generally find at least one full-service commercial campground.
hiking ridges above the Escalante River
Backcountry campers in national parks must stop by the park visitors center for a backcountry permit. Backcountry camping may be limited to specific sites in order to spread people out a bit; if so, a park ranger will consult with you and assign you a campground.
Before heading into the backcountry, check with a ranger about weather, water sources, fire danger, trail conditions, and regulations. Backpacking stores are also good sources of information. Here are some tips for traveling safely and respectfully in the backcountry:
• Tell rangers or other reliable people where you are going and when you expect to return; they’ll alert rescuers if you go missing.
• Travel in small groups for the best experience (group size may also be regulated).
• Avoid stepping on—or camping on—fragile cryptobiotic soils.
• Use a portable stove to avoid leaving fire scars.
• Resist the temptation to shortcut switchbacks; this causes erosion and can be dangerous.
• Avoid digging tent trenches or cutting vegetation.
• Help preserve old Native American and other historic ruins.
• Camp at least 300 feet away from springs, creeks, and trails. Camp at least 0.25 miles from a lone water source to avoid scaring away wildlife and livestock.
• Avoid camping in washes at any time; be alert to thunderstorms.
• Take care not to throw or kick rocks off trails—someone might be below you.
• Don’t drink water directly from streams or lakes, no matter how clean the water appears; it may contain the parasitic protozoan Giardia lamblia, which causes giardiasis. Boiling water for several minutes will kill giardia as well as most other bacterial or viral pathogens. Chemical treatments and water filters usually work too, although they’re not as reliable as boiling (giardia spends part of its life in a hard shell that protects it from most chemicals).
• Bathe and wash dishes away from lakes, streams, and springs. Use biodegradable soap, and scatter your wash water.
• Bring a trowel for personal sanitation. Dig 6-8 inches deep and cover your waste; in some areas, you’ll be required to carry portable human waste disposal systems.
• Pack out all your trash, including toilet paper and feminine hygiene items.
• Bring plenty of feed for your horses and mules.
• Leave dogs at home; they’re not permitted on national park trails.
• If you realize you’re lost, find shelter. If you’re sure of a way to civilization and plan to walk out, leave a note with your departure time and planned route.
• Visit the Leave No Trace website (www.lnt.org) for more details on responsible backcountry travel.
Most visitors to Utah’s national parks enjoy spotting rock climbers scaling canyon walls and sandstone pillars, but for a few, the whole reason to visit southern Utah is to climb. These folks need a climbing guide, either the classic Desert Rock by Eric Bjørnstad or Rock Climbing Utah, by Stewart M. Green.
Prospective climbers should take note: Just because you’re the star of the local rock gym, don’t think that climbing Zion’s high exposed big walls or Canyonlands’ remote sandstone towers is going to be simple. Sandstone poses its own set of challenges; it weakens when wet, so it’s wise to avoid climbing in damp areas or after rain. The Entrada sandstone in Arches is particularly tough to climb.
Camping at Utah’s national parks gets you closer to the spirit of the land.
Climbers in the national parks should take care to use clean climbing techniques. Approach climbs via established trails to prevent further erosion of slopes. Camp in park campgrounds, or on multiday climbs, get a backcountry permit. Because white chalk leaves unsightly marks on canyon walls, add red pigment to your chalk. Do not disturb vegetation growing in cracks along your route. Tube or bag human waste and carry it out. Remove all old worn rope and equipment, but do not remove fixed pins. Make sure your climb is adequately protected by visually inspecting any preexisting bolts or fixed pins. It is illegal to use a power drill to place bolts. Never climb directly above trails, where hikers may be hit by dislodged rocks.
In Canyonlands, even stricter regulations are in place. Here, no new climbing hardware may be left in a fixed location; protection may not be placed with the use of a hammer except to replace existing belay and rappel anchors and bolts on existing routes (or for emergency self-rescue); and unsafe slings must be replaced with earth-colored slings.
Plan to climb in the spring or fall. During the summer, the walls become extremely hot. Some climbing areas may be closed during the spring to protect nesting raptors. Check at the visitors centers for current closures.
Utah’s national parks are all blessed with fine paved roads—but if you have a high-clearance vehicle, you should explore some of the back roads of southern Utah. The following roads are either graded dirt or gravel, often with a bit of paved road to begin with, and in dry conditions they are passable by most passenger vehicles, including cars. You’ll travel with less concern if you have a higher clearance vehicle (if you’re renting, get an SUV); always check in locally to make sure that roads are open and passable. By getting off the highway, you’ll leave behind 99 percent of the crowds and have some of Utah’s most amazing scenery to yourself.
From Escalante or Boulder, Hell’s Backbone Road climbs up through alpine forests to 9,200 feet before dropping down onto a one-lane bridge that vaults across a chasm between two precipitous canyons. Bring a camera—and some Xanax.
Handy Notom-Bullfrog Road links the northern reaches of Capitol Reef National Reef with Lake Powell and other sites in remote southeastern Utah. Best of all, you’ll get a feel for the Waterpocket Fold, the formation that makes up most of Capitol Reef park, but that travelers who stick to paved Highway 24 don’t really experience. Time your trip right, and you can cross Lake Powell on Utah’s only public car ferry.
Burr Trail, a former cattle route, departs from Boulder to skirt the northern canyons of the Escalante River system, ending near the Waterpocket Fold in Capitol Reef National Park, which it descends in an amazing series of switchbacks—dropping 800 feet in less than one mile. Good brakes are a plus.
Wet weather frequently closes Cottonwood Canyon Road, but it’s one of the most scenic in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument if for no other reason than it’s the access road for wonderful Kodachrome Basin and Grosvenor Arch. Continue south to U.S. 89 for excellent canyon hiking and visits to vintage movie sets.
Follow Hole in the Rock Road to its end to parallel the route of intrepid Mormon pioneers and to catch a peek of Lake Powell, or simply use this well-maintained gravel road as access to the amazing slot canyons of the Escalante River system (at least check out the Devils Garden).
Southern Utah may seem a remote, uninhabited, and even hostile destination, but it sees hundreds of thousands of travelers each year and has sufficient facilities to ensure that visitors have a pleasant vacation. Before you visit, here are a few tips to ensure that your Utah vacation goes well.
Citizens of Canada must provide a passport to enter the United States, but a visa is not required for Canadian citizens.
Citizens of 28 other countries can enter the United States under a reciprocal visa-waiver program. These citizens can enter for up to 90 days for tourism or business with a valid passport, and no visa is required. These countries include most of Western Europe plus Japan, Australia, New Zealand, and Singapore. For a full list of reciprocal visa-waiver countries (along with other late-breaking news for travelers to the United States), check out www.travel.state.gov. Visitors on this program who arrive by sea or air must show round-trip tickets out of the United States dated within 90 days, and they must present proof of financial solvency (credit cards are usually sufficient). If citizens of these countries are staying longer than 90 days, they must apply for and present a visa.
Citizens of countries not covered by the reciprocal visa-waiver program are required to present both a valid passport and a visa to enter the United States. These are obtained from U.S. embassies and consulates. These travelers are also required to offer proof of financial solvency and show a round-trip ticket out of the United States dated within the timeline of the visa.
Once in the United States, foreign visitors can travel freely among states without restrictions.
U.S. Customs allows each person over the age of 21 to bring one liter of liquor and 200 cigarettes into the country duty-free. Non-U.S. citizens can bring in $100 worth of gifts without paying duty. If you are carrying more than $10,000 in cash or traveler’s checks, you are required to declare it.
Except in Salt Lake City, there are few opportunities to exchange foreign currency or traveler’s checks in non-U.S. funds at Utah banks or exchanges. Traveler’s checks in U.S. dollars are accepted at face value in most businesses without additional transaction fees.
By far the best way to keep yourself in cash is by using bank, debit, or cash cards at ATMs (automated teller machines). Not only does withdrawing funds from your own home account save on fees, but you also often get a better rate of exchange. Nearly every town in Utah has an ATM. Most ATMs at banks require a small fee to dispense cash. Most grocery stores allow you to use a debit or cash card to purchase food, with the option of a cash withdrawal. These transactions are free to the withdrawer.
Credit cards are accepted nearly everywhere in Utah. The most common are Visa and MasterCard. American Express, Diners Club, and Discover are also used, although these aren’t as ubiquitous.
As in all of the United States, electricity is 110 volts, 60 hertz. Plugs have either two flat prongs or two flat prongs plus one round prong. Older homes and hotels may have outlets that only have two-prong outlets. If you’re traveling with computers or appliances that have three-prong plugs, ask your hotel or motel manager for an adapter. You may need to buy a three-prong adapter, but the cost is small.
Travelers with disabilities will find Utah progressive when it comes to accessibility. All of the parks, except Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, have all-abilities trails and services. All five national parks have reasonably good facilities for visitors with limited mobility. Visitors centers are all accessible, and at least a couple of trails in each park are paved or smooth enough for wheelchair users to navigate with some assistance. Each park has a few accessible campsites.
Most hotels also offer some form of barrier-free lodging. It’s best to call ahead and inquire what these accommodations are, however, because these services can vary quite a bit from one establishment to another.
Because the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument is almost entirely undeveloped, trails are generally inaccessible to wheelchair users.
The parks of southern Utah are filled with dramatic vistas and exciting recreation. The parks provide lots of opportunities for adventures, whether it’s rafting the Colorado River or hiking to ancient Anasazi ruins, and most children will have the time of their young lives in Utah.
Utah is a family-vacation type of place, and no special planning is required to make a national park holiday exciting for children. Children do receive discounts on a number of things, ranging from motel rooms (where they often stay for free, but inquire about age restrictions, which vary) to museum admissions. One exception to this family-friendly rule is B&Bs, which frequently don’t allow children at all.
Utah law requires all children age four or younger to be restrained in a child safety seat. Child seats can be rented from car-rental agencies—ask when making a car reservation.
The parks and Utah in general are hospitable for senior travelers. The long-standing National Park Service-issued Golden Age Passport has been replaced by the America the Beautiful—National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Senior Pass. This is a lifetime pass for U.S. citizens or permanent residents age 62 or over. The pass provides access to, and use of, federal parks and recreation sites that charge an entrance fee or standard amenity. The pass admits the pass holder and passengers in a noncommercial vehicle at per-vehicle fee areas, not to exceed four adults. The pass costs $10 and can only be obtained in person at the park. There is a similar discount program at Utah state parks.
Utah is not the most enlightened place in the world when it comes to equality issues, but that shouldn’t be an issue for travelers to the national parks. Needless to say, a little discretion is a good idea in most public situations, and don’t expect to find much of a gay scene anywhere in southeastern Utah. Moab is notably more progressive than anywhere else in this part of the state, but there are no gay bars or gathering places.
Unless you really have no other option, it’s best not to bring your dog (or cat, or bird, or ferret) along on a national park vacation. Although pets are allowed in national parks, they aren’t permitted on the trails. This limits you and your dog to leashed walks along the roads, around campground loops, and in parking areas. During much of the year, it’s far too hot to leave an animal in a parked car. In Zion, private cars are prohibited on the scenic canyon drive, and no pets are allowed on the shuttle buses that drive this route.
Several pet boarding services are available in Moab:
• Karen’s Canine Campground (2781 S. Roberts Rd., 435/259-7922)
• Desert Doggie Daycare (4890 Sunny Acres Lane, 435/259-4841, http://moabdesertdoggiedaycare.com)
• Moab Veterinary Clinic (4575 Spanish Valley Dr., 435/259-8710, http://moabvetclinic.com)
When in Moab, visit the Moab Bark Park (300 S. 100 E.), a fenced off-leash dog park.
Observant Mormons don’t drink alcoholic beverages, and state laws make purchasing alcohol relatively awkward. If going out for drinks and nightclubbing is part of your idea of entertainment, you’ll find that only Moab offers much in the way of nightspots. Most towns have a liquor store; outside Moab, many restaurants don’t serve alcohol.
Smoking is taboo for observant Mormons, and smoking is prohibited in almost all public places. You’re also not allowed to smoke on church grounds. Obviously, take care when smoking in national parks and pick up your own butts. Besides the risk of fire, there’s nothing that ruins a natural experience more than windblown piles of cigarette filters.
If you’ve never traveled in Utah before, you may find that Utahans don’t initially seem as welcoming and outgoing as people in other Western states. In many smaller towns, visitors from outside the community are a relatively new phenomenon, and not everyone in the state is anxious to have their towns turned into tourism or recreational meccas. The Mormons are very family- and community-oriented, and if certain individuals initially seem insular and uninterested in travelers, don’t take it as unfriendliness.
Mormons are also orderly and socially conservative people. Brash displays of rudeness or use of foul language in public will not make you popular.
There’s nothing inherently dangerous about Utah’s national parks, though a few precautions can help minimize what risks do exist. For the most part, using common sense about the dangers of extreme temperatures, remote backcountry exploration, and encounters with wildlife will assure a safe and healthy trip.
Southern Utah in summer is a very hot place. Be sure to use sunscreen, or else you risk having an uncomfortable vacation. Wearing a wide-brimmed hat and good sunglasses, with full UV protection, can shield you from the sun’s harmful effects. Heat exhaustion can also be a problem if you’re hiking in the hot sun. In midsummer, try to get an early start if you’re hiking in full sun. If you’re out during the heat of the afternoon, look for a shady spot and rest until the sun begins to drop.
Drink steadily throughout the day, whether you are thirsty or not, rather than gulping huge amounts of water once you feel thirsty. For hikers, one of the best ways to drink enough is to carry water in a hydration pack (the two top brands are Camelbak and Platypus). These collapsible plastic bladders come with a hose and a mouthpiece, so you can carry your water in your pack, threading the hose out the top of the pack and over your shoulder, which keeps the mouthpiece handy for frequent sips of water. One easy way to tell if you’re getting enough to drink is to monitor your urine output. If you’re only urinating a couple of times a day, and the color and odor of your urine are both strong, it’s time to start drinking more water.
Don’t think that just because you’re in the Utah desert that you’re immune to hypothermia. This lowering of the body’s temperature below 95°F causes disorientation, uncontrollable shivering, slurred speech, and drowsiness. The victim may not even realize what’s wrong. Unless corrective action is taken immediately, hypothermia can lead to death. Hikers should therefore travel with companions and always carry wind and rain protection. Space blankets are lightweight and cheap and offer protection against the cold in emergencies. Remember that temperatures can plummet rapidly in Utah’s dry climate—a drop of 40 degrees between day and night is common. Be especially careful at high elevations, where sunshine can quickly change into freezing rain or a blizzard. Simply falling into a mountain stream can also lead to hypothermia and death unless proper action is taken. If you’re cold and tired, don’t waste time: Seek shelter and build a fire, change into dry clothes, and drink warm liquids. If a victim isn’t fully conscious, warm him or her by skin-to-skin contact in a sleeping bag. Try to keep the victim awake and offer plenty of warm liquids.
Giardia lamblia is a protozoan that has become common in even the most remote mountain streams. It is carried in animal or human waste that is deposited or washed into the water. When ingested, it begins reproducing, causing intense cramping and diarrhea in the host; this can become serious and may require medical attention.
No matter how clear a stream looks, it’s best to assume that it is contaminated and to take precautions against giardia by filtering, boiling, or treating water with chemicals before drinking it. A high-quality filter will remove giardia and a host of other things you don’t want to be drinking. (Spend a bit extra for one that removes particles down to one micrometer in size.) It’s also effective to simply boil your water; 2-5 minutes at a rolling boil will kill giardia even in the cyst stage. Because water boils at a lower temperature as elevation increases, increase the boiling time to 15 minutes if you’re at 9,000 feet. Two drops of bleach left in a quart of water for 30 minutes will remove most giardia, although some microorganisms are resistant to chemicals.
Hantavirus is an infectious disease agent that was first isolated during the Korean War and then discovered in the Americas in 1993 by a task force of scientists in New Mexico. This disease agent occurs naturally throughout most of North and South America, especially in dry desert conditions. The infectious agent is airborne, and in the absence of prompt medical attention, its infections are usually fatal. This disease is called hantavirus pulmonary syndrome (HPS). It can affect anyone, but given some fundamental knowledge, it can also be easily prevented.
The natural host of the hantavirus appears to be rodents, especially mice and rats. The virus is not usually transmitted directly from rodents to humans; rather, the rodents shed hantavirus particles in their saliva, urine, and droppings. Humans usually contract HPS by inhaling particles that are infected with the hantavirus. The virus becomes airborne when the particles dry out and get stirred into the air (especially from sweeping a floor or shaking a rug). Humans then inhale these particles, which leads to the infection.
HPS is not considered a highly infectious disease, so people usually contract HPS from long-term exposure. Because transmission usually occurs through inhalation, it is easiest for a human being to contract hantavirus within a contained environment, where the virus-infected particles are not thoroughly dispersed. Being in a cabin or barn where rodents can be found poses elevated risks for contracting the infection.
Simply traveling to a place where the hantavirus is known to occur is not considered a risk factor. Camping, hiking, and other outdoor activities also pose low risks, especially if steps are taken to reduce rodent contact. If you happen to stay in a rodent-infested cabin, thoroughly wet any droppings and dead rodents with a chlorine bleach solution (one cup of bleach per gallon of water) and let them stand for a few minutes before cleaning them up. Be sure to wear rubber gloves for this task, and double-bag your garbage.
The first symptoms of HPS can occur anywhere between five days and three weeks after infection. They almost always include fever, fatigue, aching muscles (usually in the back, shoulders, or thighs), and other flu-like symptoms. Other early symptoms may include headaches, dizziness, chills, and abdominal discomfort such as vomiting, nausea, or diarrhea. These symptoms are shortly followed by intense coughing and shortness of breath. If you have these symptoms, seek medical help immediately. Untreated infections of hantavirus are almost always fatal.
Although travelers in Utah’s national parks are not going to get attacked by a grizzly bear, and encounters with mountain lions are rare, there are a few animals to watch out for. Snakes, scorpions, and spiders are all present in considerable numbers, and there are a few key things to know about dealing with this phobia-inducing trio.
Rattlesnakes, including the particularly venomous midget faded rattlesnake, are present throughout southern Utah. The midget faded snakes live in Arches and Canyonlands, where they frequent burrows and rock crevices and are mostly active at night. Even though their venom is toxic, full venom injections are relatively uncommon, and, like all rattlesnakes, they pose little threat unless they’re provoked.
If you see a rattlesnake, observe it at a safe distance. Be careful where you put your hands when canyoneering or scrambling—it’s not a good idea to reach above your head and blindly plant your hands on a sunny rock ledge. Hikers should wear sturdy boots to minimize the chance that a snake’s fangs will reach the skin if a bite occurs. Do not walk barefoot outside after dark, as this is when snakes hunt for prey.
First aid for rattlesnake bites is full of conflicting ideas: to suck or not to suck; to apply a constricting bandage or not; to take time treating in the field versus rushing to the hospital. Most people who receive medical treatment after being bitten by a rattlesnake live to tell the story. Prompt administration of antivenin is the most important treatment, and the most important aspect of first aid is to arrange transportation of the victim to a hospital as quickly as possible.
A scorpion’s sting isn’t as painful as you’d expect (it’s about like a bee sting), and the venom is insufficient to cause any real harm. Still, it’s not what you’d call pleasant, and experienced desert campers know to shake out their boots every morning, as scorpions and spiders are attracted to warm, moist, dark places.
Tarantulas and black widow spiders are present across much of the Colorado Plateau. Believe it or not, a tarantula’s bite does not poison humans; the enzymes secreted when they bite do turn the insides of frogs, lizards, and insects to a soft mush, allowing the tarantula to suck the guts from its prey. Another interesting tarantula fact: While males live about as long as you’d expect a spider to live, female tarantulas can live for up to 25 years. Females do sometimes eat the males, which may account for some of this disparity in longevity.
Black widow spiders, on the other hand, have a toxic bite. Although the bite is usually painless, it delivers a potent neurotoxin, which quickly causes pain, nausea, and vomiting. It is important to seek immediate treatment for a black widow bite; although few people actually die from these bites, recovery is helped along considerably by antivenin.
