This is where things get really twisted.
Have you ever considered using melted ice cream as a replacement for the cream in your oatmeal? Or as the base dairy for a luscious chocolate ganache? Did you know that you can turn it into your own custom ice pop? How about ice cream hot cocoa? This section takes ice cream at its most basic form—an emulsion of sugar, milk, cream, and other additions—and uses that combination as an ingredient all its own.
Many of these can also function as a practical reincarnation of leftover or left-out ice cream. Instead of tossing out perfectly good (and often pricey) pints, let’s talk about how to turn melted ice cream into doughnuts, breakfast, or bonbons—and save your tears for something truly sad, like when you’ve run out of Better-Than-Buttermilk Biscuits.
BETTER-THAN-BUTTERMILK BISCUITS
THE ONLY OATMEAL YOU’LL EVER NEED
SAVORY & SUPER-DELICIOUS ICE CREAM APPLICATIONS
CARAMEL ICE CREAM BRAISED PORK SHOULDER
MAKES EIGHT 3" BISCUITS
I am fortunate enough to live a portion of the time in the South. And for all the cultural incongruities with my distinctly Yankee upbringing, one thing is impossible to deny—the folks there know how to eat, and nearly everyone has a secret recipe for something.
I haven’t been let down yet. If they tell me it’s delicious, you bet your biscuits it is. And most of the time they’re more than happy to share (if not force on you) their homemade what-have-you.
But that willingness to share stops at the jar. Recipes are sacred, and small details are fiercely guarded and hotly contested between families and friends.
With that in mind, I began the risky business of quietly minding my own biscuits. And in a decidedly un-southern move, I’m going to share my secret with you: It’s all in the ice cream. My preference is to use a salted caramel or a good vanilla bean. But I’ve also made these with blueberry ice cream or even peanut butter for a fun spin on the classic.
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
4 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cubed + ¼ cup melted
1 cup melted ice cream, flavor of your choice
1 tablespoon flaked sea salt
1Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
2In a large bowl, sift the flour, salt, baking powder, and baking soda together to combine. Add the cubed butter and toss to coat. Cut the butter into the flour until the mixture becomes shaggy.
3Make a well in the center of the bowl and add the ice cream. Gently combine the ingredients.
4When the dough is moistened and comes together, turn it onto a lightly floured surface. Press the dough into a 1”-thick square. Lightly flour the surface of the dough.
5Use a floured biscuit cutter to cut the dough into squares.
6Transfer the squares to the prepared baking sheets. Refrigerate for 10 to 15 minutes. Brush with the melted butter and top with flaked sea salt.
7Bake for 12 to 15 minutes until the biscuits are risen and golden brown. Serve warm as an appetizer or as dessert!
For a perfect ice cream sandwich, serve these biscuits warm with a scoop of your favorite ice cream inside for a flaky, buttery bite.
MAKES ABOUT 1¾ CUPS
The oatmeal aisle at the grocery store has become a little overpopulated these days. Make this recipe and never again find yourself overwhelmed by the wall of boxed options at your local market.
1 cup oatmeal steeped in ice cream base (leftover by-product from Oatmeal Cinnamon Ice Cream)
¼ cup milk, or to preference
½ cup golden raisins
½ cup Bittered Bourbon Peanuts
1 banana, sliced
1Cook the oatmeal in a small saucepan, over low heat, stirring continuously until warm. Add the milk as needed to reach the desired consistency (I prefer a thick oatmeal, but more milk will produce a looser finished product).
2Remove from the heat and stir in the raisins, peanuts, and banana. Serve warm for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or dessert.
A cup of coffee and the Sunday paper
MAKES 8 TO 12
Once I realized just how basic it was to build pancakes from scratch rather than the store-bought box, I felt as if I’d been lied to my whole life. Sure, just-add-water makes it seem like a cinch, but when you take into account the wildly superior flavor of scratch-made, skillet-fresh hotcakes, there’s hardly a reason to go back.
Replacing the milk that’s standard in most pancake recipes with a melted ice cream gives you that chance to cleverly flavor the flapjacks in a way that’s subtler than simply dumping additional ingredients into the cooking cakes.
Strawberry ice cream makes a killer pink-hued pancake, and you never even have to worry about seeds sticking in your teeth. Bananas Ferrari Ice Cream imparts that banana flavor without whole slices of the fruit (which can become slightly slimy when swimming in batter).
The use of melted ice cream also precludes the need for additional sugar in the mix, as you’ll be obtaining an adequate amount of sweetness from the flavor of your choice.
1½ cups all-purpose flour
2½ teaspoons baking powder
¾ teaspoon salt
1 large egg
1½ cups melted ice cream, flavor of your choice (my favorite: Oatmeal Cinnamon Ice Cream)
Seeds scraped from 1 vanilla bean
2 tablespoons melted butter
1Preheat the oven to 200°F.
2In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt. In a large bowl, whisk together the egg, ice cream, vanilla bean seeds, and butter.
3Gradually whisk the flour mixture into the egg mixture until well incorporated.
4Place a large skillet over medium heat and coat it with nonstick cooking spray or butter. Test the heat by sprinkling water on the pan; if it sizzles, it’s ready to go.
5Drop the desired amount of batter into the skillet (I like silver dollars). Once small bubbles form and begin to pop, flip the pancakes. Repeat until all the batter has been used. Keep cooked pancakes warm on a baking sheet in the oven until ready to serve.
MAKES 6 SLICES
The only thing that could make French toast more of a dessert is to use dessert as an ingredient. This is a sneaky strategy for adding a flavorful (and distinctly American) twist to your favorite Francophile breakfast dish. The sugars already present in the ice cream caramelize deeply when introduced to a hot skillet.
Top it with ice cream should you feel so inclined, or even make Freedom Toast ice cream sandwiches.
Why? Because ’Merica.
2 eggs
2 cups melted ice cream, flavor of your choice (caramel, peanut butter, and banana are my favorites)
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional)
½ tablespoon butter
6 slices thick bread (I love sourdough, but this recipe will also work with challah or other thick-cut breads)
Maple syrup or topping of your choice
Flaked sea salt
1Preheat the oven to 375°F.
2In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, ice cream, salt, and cinnamon (if using).
3Melt the butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Dredge the bread in the egg mixture and sear it in the hot skillet for about 2 minutes, or until golden brown. Flip using a spatula and sear another 2 minutes, or until golden on both sides.
4Transfer the cooked slices to a shallow baking pan and bake for about 8 minutes.
5Serve with maple syrup or another topping of your choice and a sprinkle of flaked sea salt.
Mint Cherry Compote, Maple-Molasses Cranberry Sauce. Top with Honeyed Peanut Butter Sauce, Marshmallow Whiff, and Quick Pickled Berries.
MAKES 6 0
If we can put caramel in ice cream, why not put ice cream in caramel? Soft, chewy caramels are punched up by the substitution of melted ice cream for the standard-issue heavy cream. Try them with peanut butter ice cream, or get really self-referential with salted caramel salted caramels.
⅓ cup corn syrup
1 cup muscovado sugar
½ cup organic cane sugar
1 cup melted ice cream
6 tablespoons butter, cut into chunks
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons flaked sea salt
1Line a 9” × 9” baking pan with parchment paper. Allow the parchment to hang over the sides, as you’ll later use it to lift out the set caramels. Brush with melted butter.
2In a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine the corn syrup and sugars. Cook until the sugars are completely dissolved and the mixture reaches 320°F on a candy thermometer.
3Meanwhile, in a separate saucepan over low heat, warm the ice cream slightly.
4When the sugar mixture registers 320°F, remove from the heat and carefully stir in the warm ice cream and butter. Finally, add the cinnamon and salt and stir until well incorporated. Return the pan to medium heat and cook until the mixture reaches 240°F.
5Remove from the heat and pour over the parchment paper in the baking pan. Use an offset spatula to level the caramel, then allow it to cool completely in the refrigerator. Once fully set, several hours later, use the parchment paper to lift the set caramel from the pan. Cut into 1” squares and sprinkle with additional flaked sea salt.
These caramels are pretty much perfection by themselves, but they get a boost from some of the other items in this book. After spreading the caramels onto a baking sheet, sprinkle with Bittered Bourbon Peanuts and Quick Pickled Berries. Allow to set for a twist on PB&J soft caramels.
SERVES 4
After finishing a batch of Sriracha Popcorn Ice Cream, I was left with a bowlful of spent popcorn that had been soaked in ice cream base. I grabbed a spoon for a small sample, and the next thing I knew, I was halfway to the bottom. The flavor of the sweet corn sinking in the rich, sweet mix was like an inverted batch of ice cream. The texture was—admittedly—a little soggy, so I decided to give it a quick sauna.
What emerged from the oven was reminiscent of bread pudding but with all the sunny sweet goodness of freshly popped corn. Take your favorite flavor and put a spin on your pudding; caramel is an obvious choice, as is chocolate-”covered” popcorn. Salty Buttered Honey Ice Cream makes your movie theater popcorn feel like a slacker.
Toss the soaked corn with almonds or cashews (or both!) for a little texture before transferring to your baking pan, or sprinkle shredded coconut and raisins on top. The proven possibilities are in the puddin’.
1½ cups melted ice cream
5¼ cups air-popped popcorn
4 large eggs, beaten
½ cup muscovado sugar
½ stick butter, room temperature and cubed
1 cup chopped nuts of your choice
1Preheat the oven to 350°F. Brush four ¾-cup ramekins lightly with olive oil.
2In a small bowl, combine the butter, nuts (if using), and sugar.
3Mix together melted ice cream and beaten eggs. Pour over popcorn and allow to sit for 10 minutes.
4Distribute custard and popcorn mixture evenly among ramekins.
5Allow to cool slightly, then serve a la mode with your choice of ice cream and Quick Pickled Berries.
MAKES ABOUT 12
How have we not been doing this for all of human history? These two things are such natural partners, such kindred spirits, that it only seemed fitting to fit them together in some composition. Your choice of ice cream flavors sweetens the batter, and this recipe produces light, downy doughnuts that allow those nuances to gently endure.
Get really crazy and use Doughnut Ya Love Coffee Ice Cream as the ice cream base. Or use these doughnuts in Doughnut Ya Love Coffee. Now that is some next-level chicken-or-the-egg shit.
3¼ cups bread flour
¾ teaspoon salt
½ tablespoon yeast
¾ cup melted ice cream, gently warmed
4 eggs, beaten
¾ cup butter, cut into ¼" slices
2 quarts rice oil, for frying
1In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the flour, salt, and yeast using the dough hook attachment. Add the ice cream and eggs and beat for about 3 minutes.
2Gradually incorporate the butter. Continue beating for about 3 minutes. Once the dough comes together, form it into a ball and wrap with plastic wrap. Let the dough rest for about 3 hours, and then refrigerate it for 12 to 15 hours, or overnight.
3The next morning, roll the dough to ¼” thickness and, using a doughnut cutter, stamp out doughnuts and transfer them to a baking sheet. (If you don’t have a doughnut cutter on hand, you can use the top of a wide water glass for the outside and a narrow shot glass for the inside.)
4Allow the doughnuts to proof for 2 hours. When you are ready to fry them, clip a candy thermometer to a Dutch oven or deep saucepan. Bring the oil to 250°F and carefully drop the doughnuts in, allowing a comfortable space between them. Fry for 2 minutes on each side, or until golden brown.
5Place the fried doughnuts on a drying rack.
6These are excellent tossed in cinnamon sugar, dipped in Bourbon Ganache, or coated with Doughnut Glaze (opposite).
ENOUGH GLAZE FOR 18 TO 22 DOUGHNUTS
This classic doughnut glaze is a simple affair. And once again, it presents an opportunity for ice cream experimentation. Try this with your favorite flavor and really customize your doughnut creations.
1½ cups confectioners’ sugar
3–5 tablespoons melted ice cream of your choice
Place the sugar in a bowl. Slowly add the ice cream, whisking to incorporate. Add ice cream until the glaze is smooth and pourable but still viscous enough to stick to the doughnuts. Allow the doughnuts to cool before applying the glaze.
JENI’S SPLENDID ICE CREAMS
Within our current American ice cream renaissance, one company has been leading the charge, pioneering the world of new-wave frozen desserts—it’s an Ohio-born company that has redefined what ice cream could be.
Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams and Jeni Britton Bauer herself have been hugely inspirational to me, providing both endless enjoyment and the impetus for absurdly long road trips and late-night freezer raids. While the scoop shops continue to pop up in spots like Los Angeles, Nashville, Charleston, and Atlanta in addition to their Ohio home base, Jeni’s by the pint also reaches many grocers’ freezer aisles.
There’s good reason that this is our new national favorite: The clean and impactful flavors are nothing short of extraordinary.
WHAT I’M HAVING: Ndali Estate Vanilla Bean. This preparation, using potently fragrant Ugandan beans, is the gold standard of ice cream’s old standby.
If you’re like me, you probably don’t have any need for this recipe. That’s because I typically just eat my ice cream straight from the pint like a perfect animal. But if you’re the civilized type who uses a proper scoop to serve ice cream in a bowl, this will certainly come in handy.
Inevitably, thanks to a critical design flaw in the ice cream pint, there are parts of the package that a standard scoop struggles to reach. In those instances, you’re left with the “dregs” of the ice cream—usually not quite enough for a full bowl or cone, so those final few bites are left to languish into a melted mess, ultimately met with an untimely trash can introduction. And because it breaks my heart to see any ice cream not fulfill its day-brightening potential, here’s what I propose.
1 recipe Enchanted Shell
1 pint ice cream of your choice
1Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Then grab a melon baller or a one-half teaspoon and dig right into those corners. Form the ice cream bits into balls, place on the baking sheet, and return to the freezer for 30 minutes to ensure they’re fully frozen.
2In the meantime, prepare the Enchanted Shell. Remove the ice cream balls from the freezer and, using a toothpick, dredge each one in the shell mixture. Working quickly, return them to the parchment-lined sheet and to the freezer.
3Once set, these can be stored in an airtight container and kept frozen. That is, unless you inevitably find yourself standing before the freezer every 5 minutes or so, stealing morsels. But then again, you said you were the civilized type.
It’s always devastating when you turn your back for just a few minutes too long and go back to find that precious container’s sweet creams have turned to slushies. Don’t worry—we won’t let them go to waste.
In addition to some of the melted ice cream recipes in this book, this application keeps the cream closest to its originally intended state.
Any amount of melted ice cream of your choice
1Simply fill an ice cream pop mold with your melted ice cream and refreeze it. I know what you’re thinking: “You said refreezing melted ice cream would make bigger ice crystals.” True, I did say that. But here we’re not striving for super-creamy and scoopable ice cream. Ice cream pops, as opposed to ice cream itself, are quiescently frozen treats. That means—by way of an unnecessarily big word—that they are frozen without agitation. Since we’re not attempting to whip a bunch of air into the product, we’re going to wind up with an equally delicious (albeit different) iteration of your frozen treat.
2If you don’t have ice pop molds on hand, you can also fill an ice cube tray with the melted ice cream and use sturdy straws in place of the classic wooden sticks.
Another fun way to custom-create ice cream sandwiches fashioned from melted ice cream.
1 pint melted ice cream of your choice
1 package crackers of your choice
1Line a baking pan with parchment paper, making sure that the paper hangs over the sides. Pour melted ice cream into the pan and return it to the freezer. Once firm, use a knife to cut the ice cream into squares, using your selected cracker as a guide.
2Sandwich the ice cream squares between 2 crackers, using your choice of topping as a glue. Honey works well.
Graham crackers, Marshmallow Whiff, Malted Hot Fudge, and Salty Buttered Honey Ice Cream for a s’mores take. Or try saltine crackers, vanilla ice cream, Lemon Curd, and Simple Strawberry Jam.
These recipes were inspired by the need to reinvent certain ice cream flavors in a way that would make them portable. Here, they’re reincarnated as sturdier, more travel-friendly or less weather-reliant versions for those looking to transport some Sage Chocolate Chip Ice Cream on a road trip sans dry ice or to make Maltese Pecan Ice Cream part of a moveable feast.
MAKES 35 TO 40
Blending the sage and sugar infuses the cookies with the herb in a big and aromatic way. These chewy cookies are a fun spin on the classic chocolate chip and a perfect consistency for ice cream sandwiches.
1¾ cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
15–20 leaves sage
½ cup + 2 tablespoons organic cane sugar
1 cup butter, softened
1 cup muscovado sugar
2 egg yolks
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1½ cups chocolate chunks
1Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, baking soda, and salt. Set aside.
3In a food processor, combine the sage and cane sugar. Pulse for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the sage is completely broken down to create a sage-infused sugar. Set aside 2 tablespoons.
4In the bowl of a stand mixer, cream together the butter, muscovado sugar, and the nonreserved sage-infused sugar. Add the egg yolks one at a time and continue mixing until incorporated. Add the vanilla.
5Turn the mixer to low speed and add the reserved flour mixture in several additions. Finally, add the chocolate and return to beating at medium speed.
6Once the dough is well combined, portion it into balls of about 1 tablespoon each and arrange on the baking sheet. Sprinkle with the reserved sage sugar.
7Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until golden brown.
MAKES 35 TO 40
First of all, it’s a malted chocolate chip cookie, so . . . duh. Secondly, it has pieces of that insanely addictive toffee in place of standard chocolate chips. And, perhaps most interestingly, if you really want to get all meta on your ice cream making, you can substitute pieces of this cookie—or the cookie dough—into the recipe for Maltese Pecan Ice Cream.
2 cups + 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 cup butter, softened
1 cup dark muscovado sugar
⅔ cup malted milk powder
2 tablespoons honey
Seeds scraped from 2 vanilla beans
1 teaspoon salt
12 ounces Sea-Salted Chocolate-Covered Pecan Toffee, chopped
1Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and preheat the oven to 350°F.
2In a medium bowl, sift together the flour and baking soda. Set aside.
3In the bowl of a stand mixer, cream together the butter and sugar. Add the malted milk powder, honey, vanilla bean seeds, and salt and mix until well combined. (If you don’t have a stand mixer, a medium bowl and a handheld mixer—or good ol’ elbow grease—will work as well.)
4Set the mixer speed to low and gradually add the reserved flour mixture.
5Turn the mixer off and fold in the toffee. Using a cookie dropper or a tablespoon, portion out the dough on the baking sheet. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until golden brown at the edges. Allow to cool completely, then store in an airtight container.
I’m going to ask a lot of you here and I’ll appreciate your confidence in me—your trust that I’ve done the legwork, compiled the research, conducted the trials, and endured many (many) errors so that you can simply sit back and enjoy.
You may scrunch your nose up and tell me I’ve lost my mind, but I’m prepared to challenge you. Because—let’s talk this out—ice cream is simply the slightly different frozen form of your favorite cream sauce. We love pastas with alfredo and lobster with brandy cream. We eat up bisques by the bowlful, bathe our potatoes in buttery garlic creams, and puree sweet corn into creamy cups of steaming chowder.
The versatility of our hero makes it favorable for applications both sweet and, yes, savory. I love to pull these out during a dinner party to let ice cream really show off its range. Prepare to see minds blown.
SERVES 4 TO 5
Pork is perhaps America’s most preferred food as of late. There are no signs that we’ll be experiencing hog-focused fatigue in the near future. Once a simple breakfast side, bacon has now found its way into everything from brownies to cupcakes to baklava; I’m pretty sure that discovering new ways to consume a pig has recently outranked playing catch as our national pastime.
I vowed never to make a bacon ice cream. I didn’t feel I had any new punches to land. But I found a loophole through which to enter the ring.
This is a riff on a classic milk-braised preparation. I like to use a salted caramel ice cream because it complements the naturally caramel-like notes that come from slow-cooking the meat. You can get creative with your choice: Chocolate ice cream and the spice cache in this recipe mimic a mole sauce, while a peanut butter flavor and chili powder will beckon Thai food–lovers.
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon (optional)
1 teaspoon ground red pepper
Kosher salt and ground black pepper to taste
2 pounds pork shoulder
2 tablespoons butter
3½–4 cups melted ice cream of your choice (about a quart of premium, high-quality ice cream)
1 cup whole milk, if needed
1In a bowl, combine the cinnamon (if using), red pepper, salt, and black pepper. Rub the pork with the mixture. Allow to rest in the refrigerator for 2 hours.
2Melt the butter in a heavy skillet over medium heat, then add the pork. Sear it for 4 minutes. Turn and repeat the searing process on all sides until the pork is golden brown all over.
3Once browned, transfer the pork to a large, heavy-bottomed pan (preferably cast iron) or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the ice cream and bring to a simmer. Continue to simmer for 1½ to 2 hours, or until the liquid has reduced considerably and begun to curdle—this is normal! Turn the meat every 30 minutes.
4The internal temperature of the meat should reach 145°F, and the meat should come apart easily with a fork. If the liquid has evaporated and the meat is not quite cooked, warm the milk separately in a small saucepan over low heat and add to the pork as needed.
5Remove the pork from the pan and allow to rest for 10 minutes before serving. Pull the pork with a fork and serve over biscuits, pancakes, doughnuts, or whatever strikes your fancy!
SERVES 4
On an especially frosty New York winter day, my wife and I were attempting to thaw by way of pasta coated with a rich mushroom cream sauce. I’d spent the afternoon grumbling about the dearth of ice cream delivery services in the wintertime, and while the dinner was delicious, I was still distressed about my dessert-free future. Emily suggested that I should be satisfied—after all, wasn’t I essentially eating pasta coated in would-be ice cream?
Her brilliant observation became my eventual obsession. I prepared this sauce the following day, and while I continued to complain about the lack of ice cream in its familiar form, this did seem to be a fair compromise.
1 tablespoon butter
¼ cup chopped shallots
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 cup sliced mushrooms (preferably porcini or morel)
1 cup melted vanilla ice cream
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
½ teaspoon chopped parsley
1Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until translucent and aromatic. Add the garlic and mushrooms and cook for 4 to 6 minutes, or until softened. Add the ice cream, thyme, salt, pepper, and parsley and heat until gently simmering, stirring regularly.
2Remove from the heat and serve over linguini or chicken.
Farfalle pasta, roasted chicken, or freshly made gnocchi
SERVES 4
For many of us, perhaps our primary attempt at executing culinary excellence was making that highly technical and discipline-demanding delicacy commonly referred to as ice cream soup. This dish required that its chef spend a protracted period of time sitting on the playground, possibly in direct sunlight, allowing his or her allocated ice cream cup to morph back into its original liquid state.
Some of us were satisfied with this result in its purest form, while others saw an opportunity. Resourceful recess chefs paired their soup with candies, gumballs, brownies, or leftover bits of lunch. It was the original unfrozen blank canvas.
This recipe is my adult answer to ice cream soup. Thanks to the honey and apples, there is a familiar sweetness while still stepping out into savory territory. Appreciating the parsnip may require a slightly more mature palate than is typical of the recess crowd, though this recipe shamelessly repurposes their technique. This bisque is full-bodied and bone-warming, ideal for cool and crisp autumn evenings.
1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons chopped shallots
1 clove garlic, chopped
2 cups cubed parsnips
1 red apple, peeled and cubed
½ cup vegetable broth
¼ cup apple cider
1 tablespoon honey
1 cup water
1 cup melted ice cream
Olive oil, for drizzling
Candied peanuts, for garnish
1Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over low heat. Add the shallots and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until translucent and aromatic. Add the garlic, parsnips, and apple and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, or until tender.
2Add the broth, cider, honey, and water and simmer for 10 minutes. Once reduced, add the ice cream and puree using an immersion blender. Serve with a drizzle of olive oil and candied peanuts.