Jewish Soul Food: From Minsk to Marrakesh, More Than 100 Unforgettable Dishes Updated for Today's Kitchen

Meatballs, Fish Balls, and Stuffed Vegetables

How does one feed a big family with just a little bit of inexpensive meat or chicken? She grinds it, stretches it with bread crumbs, adds spices and herbs, makes meatballs, cooks them in a tasty sauce, and serves them with rice, couscous, or mashed potatoes. Or better yet, she hollows out some seasonal vegetables and stuffs them with ground meat and rice. To paraphrase an old adage, “Frugality is the mother of invention,” as these recipes amply show.

ALBONDIGAS | Beef and Grilled Eggplant Meatballs

SEPHARDIC, BALKAN

Al-bunduq means “hazelnut” in Arabic, and in Ladino, albondigas are small meatballs. One of the iconic dishes of Sephardic Jews and the epitome of Jerusalem cuisine, these tiny meatballs are always cooked in rich sauce. In this version, roasted eggplants and bell peppers add subtle smokiness and balance the acidity of the lemon juice and tomato paste.

Serves 6 to 8

½ cup date honey (silan) or ⅓ cup regular honey

½ cup pomegranate syrup (pomegranate molasses)

Fresh pomegranate seeds for garnish (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Line a large baking sheet with parchment.

2. Prepare the meatballs Grate the onion on a coarse grater, and squeeze out the excess liquid. Transfer to a large bowl.

3. Add the meat, walnuts, onion, parsley, bread crumbs, olive oil, cumin, pepper, and salt. Knead thoroughly with your hands.

4. Wet your hands or rub them with oil and form meatballs the size of a golf ball. Transfer to the baking sheet.

5. Bake the meatballs for 12 to 15 minutes, until they start to turn golden.

6. Prepare the sauce Heat the vegetable oil in a large wide saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until golden. Add the garlic and ginger and sauté briefly, until fragrant. Add the ground walnuts and cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes, until fragrant and golden brown.

7. Add the boiling water, salt, and pepper and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a gentle simmer, slide the meatballs into the pan, and return to a boil. Reduce the heat to the minimum, cover, and simmer for 1 hour. Add the date honey and pomegranate syrup and simmer for another 30 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Sprinkle with fresh pomegranate seeds (if using) and serve over rice.

HERBED FISH BALLS WITH JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, TOMATOES, AND SAFFRON

MOROCCAN

So many goodies in one dish that is fun to cook and a pleasure to serve. Peeling Jerusalem artichokes (also called sunchokes) is a bit time-consuming, but the flavor of this vegetable is so lovely that it is worth the trouble. When they are in season, use fresh ripe tomatoes; the rest of the year, canned ones are a better alternative. In Jewish Moroccan homes, this dish is reserved for Friday-night dinners and special occasions.

Note: When peeling and cutting the Jerusalem artichokes, have a bowl of acidulated water ready and transfer the cut artichokes to it to prevent browning. Just before use, strain them and dry on paper towels.

Serves 6

For the fish balls

1 onion

1 pound (½ kg) meaty white fish, such as cod, tilapia, or halibut, finely chopped or minced

½ bunch fresh cilantro (mostly leaves), finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 egg

½ cup good-quality bread crumbs

1 teaspoon ground cumin

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the sauce

4 ripe tomatoes, diced, or one 14-ounce (400-g) can crushed tomatoes

3 celery stalks, coarsely chopped

½ bunch fresh cilantro (mostly stems), chopped

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1½ teaspoons sweet paprika

½ teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)

2 pounds (1 kg) Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and cut into coarse chunks

2½ cups water

15 saffron threads, soaked in ½ cup lukewarm water

1. Prepare the fish balls Grate the onion on a coarse grater. Squeeze out the excess liquid and transfer to a large bowl.

2. Add the fish, cilantro, garlic, egg, bread crumbs, cumin, salt, and pepper. Knead thoroughly with your hands for a couple minutes. Refrigerate the mixture for 1 hour.

3. Prepare the sauce Pour the olive oil into a large wide pan and immediately add the garlic cloves. Sauté on medium heat only until fragrant, then add the onions. Season with salt and sauté for 5 minutes, until translucent.

4. Add the tomatoes and celery and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the cilantro, cumin, paprika, and cayenne (if using) and stir well. Add the Jerusalem artichokes and water, bring to a boil, and lower the heat. Add the saffron (with the liquid) and cook, partially covered, for 20 minutes.

5. Wet your hands or rub them with oil and form fish balls the size of a walnut. Slide the balls into the pan with the sauce, making sure they are submerged in the sauce (add more water, if necessary), and bring a boil. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes. Serve over couscous.

VARIATIONS

• Substitute 1 pound frozen quartered artichoke hearts for the Jerusalem artichokes.

• Substitute the same amount of ground chicken (I like combining dark and white chicken meat for extra juiciness) for the fish.

PEPPERS STUFFED WITH RICE AND MEAT

BULGARIAN

Naturally hollow, bell peppers are very easy to fill. So if you have never tried your hand at stuffing vegetables, this is a great recipe to start with. Before setting out, make sure you have a suitable pan, wide and shallow, that can hold all the peppers snugly in one layer, so they support each other. If your pan is too small, reduce the number of bell peppers. If it is a little too big, see Tips and Variations.

Makes 10 to 12 peppers

For the peppers

10 to 12 red and/or yellow bell peppers, uniformly sized

For the filling

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 medium onions

1 cup long-grain rice

10 ounces (300 g) ground beef

1 large tomato, grated

⅓ cup fresh parsley leaves, chopped

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ cup pine nuts, toasted (optional)

For the sauce

¾ cup (150 g) tomato paste

1½ cups chicken or beef stock or water

3 to 4 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon sugar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Prepare the peppers Cut off the tops of the bell peppers (with the stems) and set aside. Remove the white membranes and seeds and discard.

2. Prepare the filling Heat the vegetable oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté until soft and golden. Add the rice and stir until the grains turn opaque. Add the meat and sauté, crumbling it with a fork, until it changes color. Stir in the grated tomato, parsley, paprika, salt, black pepper, and pine nuts (if using). Remove from the heat and cool for a few minutes.

3. Stuff the bell peppers to three-quarters of their capacity (rice swells during cooking).

4. Prepare the sauce Dilute the tomato paste in the stock. Add the garlic, sugar, salt, and black pepper and bring to a boil in a large wide pan that can hold all the peppers in one layer. Pour off ½ cup of the sauce and set aside.

5. Arrange the peppers, open side up, snugly in the pan in one layer—they should prevent one another from tipping over. Spoon the reserved sauce over the filling.

6. Bring to a boil, cover with a tight-fitting lid, reduce the heat, and simmer for 1½ hours. Occasionally check that there is some liquid left in the bottom of the pan (the peppers don’t need to be submerged in the sauce). Carefully pour in a little stock, if necessary. Let stand for 15 minutes before serving.

TIPS AND VARIATIONS

• Sometimes after you arrange the bell peppers in the pan, there is a gap left because the pan is slightly too wide. Fill it with a whole tomato or whole peeled onion—it will soften during cooking and add flavor to the sauce.

• For a prettier presentation, cook the bell peppers with their caps and stems. To do this, cut off the caps, making sure the stems remain attached. Remove the seeds and membranes from the cavities, stuff the peppers, spoon some sauce onto the filling, and replace the caps. Cook as directed.

• FOR A MEATLESS VERSION Sauté 3 onions until golden, add 1½ cups rice, and stir until opaque. Add 2 grated tomatoes, 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, 3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, and ½ cup toasted pine nuts. Season generously with salt, black pepper, sweet paprika, and a dash of cumin. Stuff the peppers to two-thirds of their capacity. Cook as directed.

MEATBALLS WITH TOMATOES, CHICKPEAS, SWISS CHARD, AND EGGPLANTS

ISRAELI

This is one of the few recipes in this book that were actually born in my kitchen. Inspired by several ethnic dishes and featuring some of my favorite ingredients, it is pretty close in spirit to Sephardic albondigas.

Serves 6

For the meatballs

1 onion

1 pound (½ kg) ground beef (or a combination of ground beef and ground chicken)

1 egg

2 to 3 tablespoons good-quality bread crumbs

⅓ cup fresh cilantro or parsley leaves, finely chopped

1 teaspoon baharat spice mix (or store-bought)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the sauce

1 large eggplant, cut into 1-inch (2½-cm) cubes

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon coarse salt

4 to 5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

Two 14-ounce (400-g) cans crushed tomatoes

1 cup chicken stock, water, or vegetable juice, such as V8

1 teaspoon baharat spice mix (or store-bought)

1 teaspoon sugar

1 cup cooked or canned chickpeas

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 bunch Swiss chard, leaves only, coarsely chopped

1. Prepare the meatballs Grate the onion on a coarse grater. Squeeze out the excess liquid and transfer to a large bowl.

2. Add the meat, egg, bread crumbs, cilantro, baharat, salt, and pepper. Knead thoroughly with your hands and refrigerate the mixture for 30 minutes.

3. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

4. Prepare the sauce Arrange the cubed eggplant on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Drizzle with ¼ cup of the olive oil, sprinkle the coarse salt, and bake for 30 minutes, until golden brown.

5. Pour the remaining ¼ cup oil into a large wide saucepan. Add the garlic and sauté for 1 minute, only until fragrant. Add the canned tomatoes, chicken stock, baharat, and sugar. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes. Don’t add more salt yet because roasted eggplants are quite salty.

6. Add the roasted eggplants and chickpeas and simmer for another 5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.

7. Wet your hands or rub them with oil and form meatballs the size of a walnut. Slide the meatballs into the simmering sauce. The meatballs should be submerged in the sauce. If they are not, add more stock.

8. Arrange the chopped Swiss chard on top of the meatballs—don’t stir so as not to disturb the meatballs. During cooking, the chard will wilt and become part of the sauce. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Serve over couscous, rice, or mashed potatoes.

STUFFED CABBAGE ROLLS WITH SAUERKRAUT

HUNGARIAN

Holishkes in Yiddish, golubtzi in Russian, golabki in Polish: Stuffed cabbage rolls are ubiquitous across Eastern Europe. But the Hungarian version, called töltött káposzta, is the most intriguing with its peppery seasoning and sauerkraut-based sauce. Look for cabbages that are relatively lightweight for their size—their leaves separate more easily.

Serves 8

For the cabbage rolls

1 large head green cabbage

For the filling

2 onions

½ cup long-grain rice

1 pound (½ kg) ground beef

3 garlic cloves, crushed

1 cup water

1 tablespoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon sweet Hungarian paprika

For the sauce

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 garlic cloves, chopped

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon sweet Hungarian paprika

1 teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon chili powder

½ head (about 1½ pounds) green cabbage, chopped

One 14-ounce (400-g) can sauerkraut, rinsed and strained

2 cups tomato juice

1 cup water

1. Prepare the cabbage rolls Fill a large pot with water until it is three-quarters full and bring to a boil. With a sharp knife, cut a deep and narrow cone at the base of the green cabbage, pull out the core, and discard it.

2. Transfer the cabbage (without the core) to the boiling water, base (cut) side down. Cook, covered, for 15 minutes, until the leaves separate easily. Remove from the pot and set aside any leaves that fall off. Transfer the whole cabbage to a large tray or a cutting board (the easiest way to pick up the hot cabbage is with two large spoons).

3. Separate the leaves with tongs and a fork. Don’t worry if the leaves tear slightly. Place the leaves in a pile in a strainer, concave side up.

4. Prepare the filling Grate the onions on a coarse grater and squeeze out the excess liquid. Transfer to a large bowl. Add the rice, meat, garlic, water, salt, pepper, and paprika and mix well.

5. Trim off the tough outer spine of a large cabbage leaf and discard it. Place the leaf on a table, veiny side down.

6. Put a heaping tablespoon of filling in the center of the leaf. Roll the bottom part of the leaf halfway to cover the filling. Fold in the edges from right and left over the folded flap and loosely roll (rice swells during cooking, and if the roll is too tight it might tear). Prepare the rest of the rolls the same way.

7. Prepare the sauce Heat the vegetable oil in a large wide saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic, salt, pepper, paprika, sugar, and chili powder and sauté for 1 minute, until fragrant. Remove from the heat.

8. Add the chopped green cabbage and the sauerkraut. Pour over the tomato juice and water and return to the heat. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and cook for about 5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

9. Arrange the cabbage rolls, seam side down, in one snug layer in the saucepan. Make sure the rolls are submerged in the sauce. Add a little bit of tomato juice or water, if necessary.

10. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer over very low heat for 1 to 1½ hours, until the liquid has reduced by half. Serve hot.

VARIATION

• FOR A MEATLESS VERSION Increase the rice amount to 1 cup. Finely chop 4 onions and sauté them over medium heat with some salt and pepper until soft and golden brown, about 10 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon caraway seeds and sauté for 2 more minutes. Season with freshly ground black pepper. Add the onion mixture to the rice instead of meat and proceed with the recipe. Serve with a generous dollop of sour cream.

MIXED STUFFED VEGETABLES IN POMEGRANATE SAUCE

SYRIAN (ALEPPAN)

This, in my opinion, is the grand slam of stuffed vegetable dishes. The sauce, made with pomegranate juice and prunes (or dried apricots) and perfumed with mint and allspice, is reduced by the end of cooking to a thick syrup that glazes the vegetables and begs to be wiped off the plate with a piece of bread. The classic casserole is prepared with three different vegetables (onions, zucchini, and eggplants), but you can use only one, if you wish.

Serves 6 to 8

For the filling

1 onion

1 pound (½ kg) ground beef

½ cup long-grain rice

½ bunch fresh mint leaves, finely chopped

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon ground allspice

1 teaspoon dried mint

2 to 3 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil

¼ cup fresh lemon juice

For the vegetables

10 to 12 very small zucchini

5 small eggplants, such as fairy tale, bambino, or young Chinese eggplants

3 to 4 large onions

3 to 4 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil

4 garlic cloves, chopped

12 prunes or dried apricots

½ bunch mint sprigs

½ cup fresh lemon juice

For the sauce

3 tablespoons pomegranate syrup (pomegranate molasses)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons honey or sugar

2 cups pomegranate juice

8 to 10 fresh mint sprigs

1. Prepare the filling Grate the onion on a coarse grater. Squeeze out the excess liquid and transfer to a large bowl.

2. Add the meat, rice, fresh mint, salt, pepper, allspice, dried mint, vegetable oil, and lemon juice and mix well. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.

3. Prepare the vegetables for stuffing Cut off the ends of the zucchini. Using an apple corer and working from the bottom end, hollow them by creating a tunnel at the center. Leave about ¼ inch (⅓ cm) of flesh along the interior walls. Repeat with the eggplants, but leave the stems intact.

4. Cut a deep X across the tops of the onions, starting at the stem end and working toward the root end. Heat for 4 to 5 minutes in the microwave at full power or blanch in boiling water for 3 to 4 minutes to soften. Cool slightly. When the onions are cool enough to handle, remove 4 or 5 of the largest outer layers and set aside.

5. Stuff the centers of the zucchini and eggplants gently with the meat filling, without compressing (you can use a teaspoon, but I find working with fingers to be easier).

6. To stuff the onion layers, hold 1 layer with the curved side cupped in your hand. Spoon 1 to 2 tablespoons of stuffing into the center and gently fold over to form a football-shaped packet. Repeat with the rest of the layers.

7. Pour the vegetable oil into a large wide pan that can hold all the vegetables in one layer. Add the garlic and arrange the stuffed vegetables in a single layer (onion packets, seam-side down). Arrange the prunes between the vegetables. Place the ½ bunch mint sprigs on top.

8. Prepare the sauce Combine the pomegranate syrup, salt, pepper, honey, pomegranate juice, and 8 to 10 mint sprigs in a bowl and mix well. Gently pour over the vegetables and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer over low heat for about 1 hour. Drizzle on the lemon juice and continue cooking for up to 2 hours, until the sauce is syrupy and the vegetables are very soft. If the vegetables are ready but the sauce is still too runny, increase the heat and cook, uncovered, for 10 to 15 minutes to reduce.

9. Let rest for 20 minutes before serving. The casserole can be reheated over low heat (add a bit of pomegranate juice or water to avoid scorching).

MAFROUM | Meat and Potato “Sandwiches”

LIBYAN (TRIPOLITAN)

No need to hollow out or roll anything here. Just slit potato slices crosswise so they resemble a crocodile’s mouth and stuff with a meat patty. Mafroum is traditionally served over couscous, but you can serve it over white rice or on its own (in which case, lots of bread to mop up the sauce is imperative). This recipe is from Rafi Guetta, chef-owner of Guetta restaurant in Jaffa, one of the best places in Israel to savor Libyan (Tripolitan) cuisine.

Makes 10 to 12 mafroum; serves 4 to 6

For the filling

1 pound (½ kg) coarsely ground beef

½ pound (250 g) coarsely ground chicken breast

1 large onion, finely chopped

⅓ cup fresh parsley leaves, finely chopped

For the mafroum

4 russet potatoes, peeled

½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour

2 eggs

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ cup good-quality (preferably homemade or panko) bread crumbs

Vegetable oil for frying

For the sauce

Olive oil

Leftover potato scraps

1 large onion, thinly sliced

1 carrot, sliced into ½-inch (¾-cm) coins

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

½ teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons tomato paste

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ to 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional)

1. Prepare the filling Combine the beef, chicken, onion, and parsley in a bowl and mix well. Form 10 to 12 round flat patties 2 inches (5 centimeters) in diameter.

2. Prepare the mafroum Slice the potatoes lengthwise into 1-inch (2½-cm) disks. Reserve the scraps for later use. Slit each disk, but not all the way through, so the sides can be hinged to create a V shape to be filled (see the photograph). Insert the meat patty into the opening.

3. Prepare three plates: one with the flour, one with the beaten eggs seasoned with the salt and pepper, and one with the bread crumbs. Dip the potato sandwiches first in the flour, then in the eggs, and finally in the bread crumbs.

4. Heat the vegetable oil in a wide shallow saucepan and fry the potato sandwiches for 2 to 3 minutes on each side until golden. Transfer to a paper towel–lined plate.

5. Prepare the sauce Heat the olive oil in a large wide pan over medium heat. Add the leftover potato scraps and sauté until golden. Add the onion, carrot, paprika, sugar, and tomato paste and sauté until the onion softens and becomes translucent, 2 to 3 minutes.

6. Arrange the potato sandwiches in an even layer over the sauce and pour water over just to cover. Season with salt, pepper, and cinnamon (if using) and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 45 minutes, or until the potatoes are very tender.

VARIATION

To make mafroum kosher for Passover, dip the sandwiches in potato starch instead of flour and then in the eggs. Skip the bread crumbs.

BISTIL | Potato Patties Stuffed with Spiced Minced Meat

LIBYAN (TRIPOLITAN)

This dish of golden mashed potato patties stuffed with aromatics tastes even better than it sounds. It is common among Jewish Libyan families to serve bistil at the Seder table. Be warned: Bistil taste and smell so good when coming out of the pan that there is a risk they will be gone before the guests arrive.

Makes 20 bistil; serves 8 to 10

For the filling

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 onion, chopped

1 pound (½ kg) beef shoulder or brisket in one piece

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 allspice berries

2 bay leaves

¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg

For the shell

2½ pounds (about 1 kg) russet potatoes, unpeeled

1 teaspoon white pepper

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

3 egg yolks

Salt

1 teaspoon ras el hanout or baharat spice mix

For frying

½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour (or potato starch for Passover)

2 eggs, lightly beaten

Vegetable oil

1. Prepare the filling Heat the vegetable oil in a pan over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté for 7 to 8 minutes, until golden. Add the meat and brown on all sides. Add the salt, black pepper, allspice, bay leaves, and nutmeg and cook for a few more minutes.

2. Add water to cover and bring to a boil. Cover the pan, lower the heat, and simmer for about 1½ hours, until the meat is tender. Remove the meat and onion from the pan to cool.

3. Grind the seasoned meat and onion in a meat grinder or finely chop with a large sharp knife. Set aside.

4. Prepare the shell Meanwhile, bring the potatoes to a boil in plenty of salted water. Cook until fork tender (about 30 minutes after the water comes to a boil). Drain and cool.

5. Peel the potatoes and place in a bowl. Mash with a potato masher or a fork; do not use a food processor. Add the white pepper, turmeric, egg yolks, salt, and ras el hanout and mix until just blended—be careful, because overmixing will hurt the texture.

6. Shape, fill, and fry Wet your hands or rub them with oil and form the potato mixture into balls 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter, snuggling them in the palm of your hand. Flatten them slightly. Place 1 tablespoon of the filling in the center of each patty and pinch over so the filling is completely covered with mashed potatoes and you have formed an oblong patty.

7. Prepare two plates: one with the flour and one with the beaten eggs. Dip the patties in the flour, then in the beaten eggs.

8. Heat the vegetable oil in a large wide pan (the oil should come halfway up the sides of the patties). Working in batches, fry the patties for 2 to 3 minutes on each side until lightly golden. Transfer to a paper towel–lined plate.

9. Serve immediately or keep in a 300°F (150°C) oven until ready to serve. Serve hot or at room temperature.

VARIATION

Instead of using the spice mix (baharat or ras el hanout), use a dash each of black pepper, allspice, cumin, nutmeg, and cinnamon.